Succumbing to the Spell of Siquijor
by Czarina Medina
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There are but only a handful places in the country where people get scared just by hearing its name. We hear stories about Balete Drive and Capiz where, they say, unearthly creatures roam the earth. And there also is such an island where stories of local black magic, voodoo and aswangs veer the tourists away from the real reason why the place is called the Mystic Island. But as I have learned by spending some time there myself, the “mystic” label of the place does not emanate from stories about the supernatural but from the almost undisturbed beauty of its rolling mountains and white sand beaches, so beautiful that new resort investors are just itching to develop. I am a living testimony to the real beauty and majesty of the island province of Siquijor. I visited Siquijor to regain some peace of mind and relaxation. I soon discovered, my search was an effortless task. Siquijor has its ways of making me succumb to its spell.

The island is accessible through the ports of Siquijor and Larena via fast ferries from three major destinations in the Visayas – Cebu, Dumaguete and Tagbilaran.

But getting there and staying for the weekend is not the problem --- leaving is. If you are coming in groups, it is advisable to rent vehicles for the duration of your stay. It will set you back P600-800 a day, excluding fuel and driver’s tip. But if you are seeking the Siquijor adventure alone or with a loved one, you could ride the habal-habal, a motorcycle that could accommodate three passengers, including the driver.

One of the most celebrated tourist attractions of Siquijor is not a place, but a man, who reaches the peak of his popularity during the Holy Week when locals search for talismans, gayumas and anting-antings. It is to people in his craft that Siquijor owes its mysterious reputation. Mang Juan, the area’s most prominent maker of these magical items, cooks his brewed concoctions like a quintessential warlock, the most of which are eventually made available for sale to ardent followers. He does not look anything like an anting-anting maker, coming from the impression of hermit-like men secluding themselves from the rest of the people. Mang Juan was extremely accommodating. I remember him sharing with us how he collects the ingredients for his recipes, a complicated task from what I heard. The only opportune time for ingredient shopping begins at dawn every Friday between Ash Wednesday until Good Friday. Preparation is equally tedious as Mang Juan is careful not to let any sunlight shine on his harvest until he cooks them. His anting-antings range from P500 to P1500, and although it would sound expensive for some, those who have purchased Mang Juan’s trinkets would have their own personal stories of their effectivity. Mang Juan is not difficult to find; he resides near Cantabon Cave, at Mount Bandilaan.

That same place, Cantabon Cave, is one of 45 of Siquijor’s most frequented caves. Exploration would entail a long, winding and difficult trek along a subterranean stream and a walk through a bounty of stalactites and stalagmites that are at par with those you could see in the caves of Palawan. You could take the entire afternoon identifying different rock formations at the cave walls. The local guides are willing to assist you in exploring the inside trek at P300, inclusive of the hard hats and flashlights for your adventure.

The beauty of Siquijor’s beaches is a secret slowly unraveling to tourists. Natural white sand beaches line the southwestern down to the eastern coastlines. The Coral Cay Beach Resort at the town of San Juan has become a favorite destination for foreigners and diving enthusiasts with a couple of diving establishments offering diving lessons and platforms. Imagine a romantic moment experiencing the San Juan sunset with the vista of Apo Island just offshore. For those those who are on a budget, the Salagdoong Beach Resort at the town of Maria has come to be known as Siquijor’s “People’s Beach” with the look and feel of a first class beach minus the first class price tag. The entrance fee is at P15, with overnight cottages at P800. And, I must say, I love the Saturday night life at Salagdoong. Local bands play all night to party-goers in crowds less packed than what you have in Boracay or Puerto Galera.

Freshwater enthusiasts need not fret in Siquijor, as not all the beautiful swimming spots are on the beach. Also in San Juan, the local government developed Capilay Springs, a natural spring near its center and created a cool free-flowing fresh water pool draining just a few meters to the sea. Entrance and cottages in this spring are free. And in the town of Lazi, after a 135-step descent on a steep cobblestone stairway is Cambugahay Falls. Locals here have come to know this environmental wonder as the only “enchanted” waterfalls in Siquijor. And thanks to that belief, this three drop waterfall with basins reaching to 15 feet deep has remained to be almost undisturbed, aside from occasional visits from tourists.

But if you are looking for a silent religious retreat, one may visit Lazi Convent at the town’s center which is believed to be Asia’s oldest and largest. Built by the Spaniards in 1884, this rock and wood edifice of the Lazi Convent used to be the diocesan priest’s vacation house in Siquijor. The convent is still operating with its nuns running a school in its grounds. The church just across the convent was built at almost the same time as the convent. And as I read in one of the church’s ceiling beams, its last major renovation was almost a century ago, replacing the entire roof structure. Since then, the only alteration on the building was the installation of iron bars to cover the windows and the replacement of rusting roof material.

Siquijor has offered me a complete weekend out of town package during my stay there – I went swimming, trekking and spelunking – amazed by its people and natural beauty. It does not matter if the black magic might be non-existent. I found myself entranced with a different kind of magic, which is Siquijor.


Travel Notes

How to get there
Siquijor is accessible only by fast ferries from Cebu, Tagbilaran, and Dumaguete. If you are coming from Cebu, the fare would cost around P450-500; from Tagbilaran, P300-350, and; from Dumaguete, P150-250. Booking is required during peak season (Holy Week) only; otherwise you could take regular daily trips to the island.

Seeking assistance
The locals understand Filipino and English, but speak little of them. But there is no need to worry because local police and municipal government officers are around to accommodate visitors. Just in case, keep these numbers at hand: Siquijor Provincial Governor’s Office (035)344-2015; Local Government of Siquijor (035)480-3315.
Mobile phone signals are available only near or in the town centers. Both Globe and Smart are working in the said areas.





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