Seized by a Sunset
My image of Dumaguete is the stunning view of the Tanon Strait at sunset, standing where the belfry is. The locals told me, the church was built during the Spanish era, and the bell on top of its tower was used to warn the people when Moro raiders used to attack the city. The moment is serenity itself; no other sunset is like the one that revealed itself to me that afternoon.
From the view at the belfry, I also saw Rizal Boulevard – which reminded me so much of Roxas Boulevard in Metro Manila where I make my home. Slowly, as day became night, the bayside filled with people. Vendors with carts selling the town’s version of tempura, amble in with lovers enjoying the romantic breeze of a twilight walk. A variety of hotels, restaurants, and bars occupy the boulevard’s stretch. And the locals say, if you ride a boat, you could see Rizal Boulevard with its neon lights as far as five miles away from shore. A night scene pulsating with life yet ironically, devoid of the noise pollution so characteristic of big cities. In the morning, when dawn breaks, runners appreciate a vista that extends into the banks of neighboring Siquijor.
Perhaps the charm of Dumaguete is born out of its youthful population. Students can be found everywhere in Dumaguete, what with the Silliman University heralded as one of the most prominent educational institutions in the Visayas. 20th century American structures give an air of dignity and quiet wisdom to the near-shore campus. An impressive collection of antique Chinese porcelain and pre-Hispanic burial remains are on display in Silliman hall, one of the university’s oldest halls. They also have a marine laboratory, comparable to those in Manila-based universities. My friends in Silliman told me that there are actually campus ambassadors that tour visitors around campus. In a town whose population is only a little over 100,000, seven colleges and universities make academics a serious business in Dumaguete.
But those in need of a break from all things serious will find that Dumaguete’s reputation for having magnificent beaches is well deserved. I for one, think I did not do anything else in Dumaguete aside from eat and swim.
I took my first plunge in Dumaguete’s waters in Flight Resort, which is built around a hot and cold spring. First owned by a French pilot who would stay in the island for relaxation, it proved to be aptly named – I had my snacks and dinner inside a plane. Flight Resort is a 25-minute ride away from the city proper.
One cannot claim that you visited Dumaguete without spending a day in the Bais Dolphin and Whale Watching Center at Tanon Strait. Those with deeper pockets can opt to rent a van for P1, 300 or a boat for P3, 000 to reach the center. But I took two jeepney rides got me there for P25, savings well worth the slight inconvenience. The moment I got to the area, guides attended to me in almost military precision. I shared a bangka worth P1500 with other tourists and sailed to the areas where the whales and dolphins were. There was no show, no choreography for the marine animals. This was as close as I got to these creatures acting au naturale. I highly recommend that visitors book around one-week in advance. The management is trying to regulate the number of visitors per day to avoid unnecessary disturbances to the natural habitat.
Near the Bais Dolphin and Whale Watching is the Manjuyod White Sand Bar, where I dined in a house on stilts. You can bring your own food for this sand bar picnic or opt to have food cooked for you. But the Sand Bar offers more than just a dining-over-the-sea experience. Visitors could also do scuba diving and swimming, or even stay overnight in one of their rooms. Again, I suggest that visitors book their Manjuyod stay at least one week in advance.
The most popular diving-snorkeling site in Dumaguete is the Apo Island Marine Sanctuary, which is a 35-minute pump boat-ride away from the city proper. Others contend that it is one of the best-preserved reefs in the world, at par with Palawan’s Tubbataha or Dapitan’s Challenger Reef. It has a unique drop-off perfect for diving enthusiasts. I was not able to dive; I did not know how. But I did have the chance to view the variety of fishes and corals while snorkeling. Of all the underwater wonders I saw, I find it funny that my most vivid memory of the Apo Island experience is coming face to face with the biggest lapu-lapu I have ever seen. I think it could swallow my entire hand in one bite; but of course, it didn’t.
I swooned over the idea of a resort hidden in the mountains. After a 15-minute jeepney ride from Dumaguete City, I was able to reach Valencia where Mountain Resort is. The swimming area is built around a river line, and it gave me a short retreat from the beach scene. I do not remember how long I was soaked under the cold, soothing waters for that entire weekend. From where I lay, the sky felt an arm-stretch away.
In as much as I want to experience as many Philippine islands as I could, Dumaguete holds a distinctive place in my memory. It renewed my sense of adventure. But it also snatched a fragment of my soul, as I know that I could find a certain kind of peace that only a Dumaguete sunset could bring.
Travel Notes
Getting there
From Manila; by air: Cebu Pacific twice daily and Air Philippines twice daily; Airfare- P1400-2400
From Cebu, Dipolog, CDO; by ship
Asking Around
City Tourism Office
(63 35) 225 0549
Provincial Tourism Office
(63 35) 225 1825
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