Guardians of the Caves
by Chen Reyes-Mencias
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The drive from Tuguegarao City took only 30 minutes. I was on my way to visit the Callao cave system that became popular because of the chapel that was built in one of its seven chambers. Today this natural attraction is becoming even more famous because of three young boys that are giving a whole new meaning to the Callao Cave experience.

Not long after I paid the entrance fee to the Park I was approached by a lanky young man who introduced himself as Gerald Taguinod. He is one of three qualified guides to the Callao cave system who had been trained to provide interpretations to visitors. Gerald is fifteen years old and has been guiding visitors since he was eight. I must have been early since I was the first one to sign up for a guided tour. Feeling so eager to do their work, two other boys named Andoy Dalimag and Jerick Apattad decided to join us. Andoy is ten while Jerick is thirteen years old. At the foot of the steps leading to the entrance of the cave, the boys stopped to spell out seven rules for a low impact exploration .They said that we should take nothing but pictures and memories, leave nothing but footprints and kill nothing but time. These are all too familiar sayings until they went on to say that we should add nothing but the love for nature and the pleasure of our enjoyment. Amazingly they took turns reciting a speech that they must have given thousands of times before.

I couldn’t help but laugh as Gerald caps this briefing by saying that we should burn nothing but calories. And I did just that as I struggled to put one foot over the other as we climbed up the 200 steps. This however did not distract me from the amazing performance that my guides were providing effortlessly. The boys kept their composure, never missing a line and always knowing when to stop to allow the others to talk.
“This place was named after the hornbill or the Kalaw bird. But you don’t pronounce it as such. It is not also right to pronounce it like “kalyaw”. The right way is to pause between the two “L” and say Cal-lao,” Gerald spills out in perfect English.

Leaving a mark
At the entrance of the cave Andoy points out a deeply etched “Roosevelt” on the white rock. It is a common belief that the US President visited the park many years ago and left his mark on the wall. Whether the story is true or not, the name has been immortalized forever. The others that came after him must have envied Roosevelt because many of them also left their names on the walls and rocks. Jerick points out that we should not add to the existing graffiti. Touching the walls, stalactites and stalagmites is strongly discouraged since the oil from the palm of the hands can affect the integrity of the rocks.

The Callao Cave System is found in Barangays Parabba and Quibal. It is part of the Peñablanca Protected Landscape and Seascape, a protected area declared in 1992. There are 378 caves in the area and only 75 had been documented by the National Museum since 1977. Callao is the most visited and developed. Out of the seven chambers, three have dramatic skylights through which beams of light filter through. Despite its protected status it was important to put in place systems that will preserve this national heritage. The visitor center that the Province of Cagayan established is designed to monitor the influx of tourists, provide information and orientations and ensure that the caves are not vandalized.

Chambers of Light
The first chamber is where the chapel is. It was built in 1972 by the late Gov. Teresa Dupaya. An archeological site has been established by the National Museum near the mouth of the cave where bone fragments, shells, beads and other significant signs of human habitation were found years ago. In this chamber stalactites and stalagmites meet each other creating massive columns.

The second chamber is just as huge. The ceiling is 162 feet above the ground. The third chamber is where more massive columns had been named “small”, “double” and “big”. The fourth one is a treasure trove of formations – Three Kings, Elephant’s Head, Wing’s of Angel and even a Scoop of Ice Cream. The fifth is the biggest of all seven chambers and the formations here provide more interesting interpretations. Gerald weaves together a story as he points out the skeleton, the two lions kissing each other, the rocket, the angel that was praying, the crocodile’s head and the eagle’s claw. The story continues up to the sixth chamber where another lion’s head formation may be seen, as well as rocks that resemble a boat. The last chamber is best visited between 7 and 9 in the morning because bluish white rays of light beams through the hole in the ceiling providing an ethereal scene.

Before I bid good-bye to my young friends I asked Gerald what he wants to be when he grows up.
“I want to be an anthropologist,” he beams with delight with the prospect of this dream.
I gave him a pat on the back and said, ”Go for it Gerald.”

River of life
After an hour and a half of a highly educational tour of Callao, I decided to explore the Pinacanauan river. It is a tributary to the Cagayan river, the biggest river system in Luzon. It has established itself as a venue for kayaking. But today I decided to take a motorized boat, explore a little bit and wait for the Circadian flight of bats. As I waded in the cool water I filled my lungs with air and enjoyed the sweet scent of a blooming narra tree. The connectivity of life is clearly defined by the way the caves rely on the health of the forests and its ability to hold water. Stalactites and stalagmites can only form if there is water percolating through the rocks from the forest above. This can only happen if there are trees that can hold rain that falls over the mountains. Not too long a stream of black specks flew from a cave on top of a cliff. The bats moved like one entity, pulsating to a beat that only they can understand. They too rely on the forest and the caves. What a way to end the day. I have been to Callao a few times before, and yet hearing the story from the three children gave me new sets of glasses to see the world.

Travel Notes

The Guardians of Callao will appreciate any scholarship that can be provided for them to continue their studies. For more information, you may contact the tourism office of the province of Cagayan at (63 78) 846 7576.

How to Get There:
Domestic carriers have regular flights to Tuguegarao, Cagayan. For information and bookings, you may call Air Philippines at (63 2) 857 5258 or Cebu Pacific at (63 2) 702 0888.

Travel time by land from Manila to Tuguegarao takes 10 hours. There are several bus companies that travel to Cagayan daily.

Baliwag Transit
(63 2) 524 7111

Victory Liner
(63 2) 727 4534

Auto Bus Company
(63 2) 735 8096

Where to Stay:
Governor's Garden Hotel

J. Manzano corner Bonifacio St.,
Tuguegarao City
(63 78) 326 6049

Hotel Roma

Luna corner Bonifacio St., Tuguegarao City
(63 78) 844 2001





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