Apo Reef Natural Park: Bounties below and above sea level
From San Jose City, the land trip to the Municipality of Sablayan is roughly 2 to 3 hours. As I enjoyed my ride to Sablayan, amazed by the expansive rice fields and the mountain ridges far away, I realized that things have changed for the better. With bridges looking stronger and most of the long stretch of the roads paved, the road trip was pleasant on a cooperative sunny weather. Before the day was over, I got my boat arrangement ready for the following day.
Five years ago, the first time I went to this coastal town, the travel time seemed like forever. All I could remember were strong rains, flooded plains, and fallen bridges. My spirit was willing but the car’s engine was not, so my team went back to San Jose and just continued the journey the following day. The weather improved a little and we managed to drive all the way to Sablayan.
Apo, a treasure island
Onboard a regular motorized outrigger boat manned by a park ranger of Apo Reef Natural Park (and my guide at the same time) for the trip to Apo Island, we pierced the darkness at 4 a.m. with dauntless air. The discordant sound of the boat engine was strangely comforting. Rays of sunrise dawned upon us to reveal a small island. At 22 hectares, Apo Island is just a dot in the vast and sometimes turbulent waters of the South China Sea. From afar, who would think that this small piece of land could offer more than the usual diving and snorkeling?
Standing at 115 feet, the lighthouse is a landmark that is unmistakable as one closes in on the island. Built some years after the town of Sablayan was razed down to the ground in 1903 during the Philippine-American war, the monumental height of the structure was so enticing that it landed first on my morning agenda and I wasted no time in making my way up after I paid my dues at the rangers’ station.
Ascending the Apo Island lighthouse is, in itself, an experience. Every level offers different vantage points, making each step up a unique journey. With puffs of winds gently pushing white clouds against the azure sky, the 360-view from the top is nothing less than grand. Looking down, one can enjoy a bird’s eye view of the whole island patched with a ten-hectare mangrove forest that surrounds two crystalline blue lagoons.
After reaching a certain point of satisfaction, we proceeded down to the mangrove forest where a bamboo raft was ready for lagoon rafting. Maneuvering the craft was easy. There are two ropes that cutting across the lagoon and intersecting in the center. While onboard, the rope must be pulled nice and easy to drag the craft forward. At the center, one may turn left or right by grabbing the other rope and pulling as usual. We turned left to the direction of the ranger’s station.
Inundated during high tide, the mangrove forest is characterized by highly specialized trees that grow in muddy substrates. It is a nursery and spawning ground of many coastal and marine species, making it highly productive and favorable for transient wildlife. Because of the abundance of food such as shrimps, crabs and fishes, the forest provides a feeding and breeding ground for 46 migratory and resident sea birds. Put plainly, Apo Island is perfect for bird watching. There are two other small islands in the park, Apo Menor and Cayos del Bajo, which also serve as rookeries for the volant wildlife.
Time to replenish
The escapade didn’t stop in Apo Island. As we headed back to Sablayan after a modest breakfast with park rangers, we made a stopover in a fishing ground outside the park where we found almost 60 boats of hook and line fishers. My guide, a fisher himself, demonstrated how the fishing situation has improved since the incumbent mayor’s success in pushing commercial fishers away from the municipal waters. True enough, in less than 30 minutes, a fish from the tuna family weighing 2-3 kilograms took the bait. Two more big fishes were caught in less than two hours. According to my guide, the 15 to 25 kilos of fish catch a Sablayan small-scale fisher now enjoys per boat trip is a far cry compared to the 4 to 5 kilos of catch years ago.
The 1980’s saw the height of Apo Reef’s destruction. Most forms of illegal and destructive fishing methods, from cyanide to dynamite fishing, were introduced in the area, endangering at least 385 species of fish and 190 species of corals. Though declared a protected area in 1986, the illegal activities remained unabated and the perpetuators became more pervasive and innovative in their ways to catch more. But the Sablayanos were never too late to save and protect its rich marine resources. The park was eventually closed to all forms of fishing activities last year to give the reef time to recover and replenish. The small-scale fishers are a testament to the tangible benefits from the newfound protection of the park.
Dozing it off
Almost drained of my morning energy, I retreated to the Pandan Island Resort to doze off the lazy afternoon. 16 hectares in size and a stone’s throw away from mainland Sablayan, the island is infused with serenity and rustic ambience. Bungalows are made from native materials and each room is provided with mosquito nets. Fans and air-conditioners are not part of the amenities, but I wouldn’t trade the lounge on a hammock under the trees whilst enjoying the sea breeze. Away from the bustling city of Manila, I found an oasis of solace in this part of Mindoro.
Note: Apo Island of Apo Reef, Occidental Mindoro is not to be confused with Apo Island in Dauin, Negros Oriental.
How to get there:
Asian Spirit has flights from Manila to San Jose every Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays . From San Jose City, the land trip to the Municipality of Sablayan is roughly 2 to 3 hours. From the airport, a tricycle can get you to the bus terminal where you can board a bus bound for Sablayan. Having been visited by tourist over the past decades, Sablayan has become prepared to accommodate tourists with its modest hotels and lodging inns. The courteous local tricycle drivers will be more than willing to point you to any of these.
Manila – San Jose (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays)
Departure 5:20 AM
Arrival 6:10AM
San Jose – Makati (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays)
Departure 6:30AM
Arrival 7:20AM
All
