Corregidor: The Last Stand Lives
Boarding a ferry from the old Hoverferry terminal near the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex along Roxas Boulevard is all that it took for me to reach Corregidor—thereby making it the ideal getaway for the hustle and bustle of Manila’s crowded streets. The ferryboat to the island was itself the first of many pleasant discoveries on the trip. Used to the dismal state of transportation in the country, especially of smaller sea craft, the shining, spotless deck of the ferryboat was a welcome surprise. The ferryboat itself was a jewel in its own right and gives a good premonition of what visitors can expect for the rest of the tour. Taking the earliest ferry out at 8:00AM, I set foot at the North Dock of Corregidor in no time, which took about an hour and some change. First thing to notice upon arrival is the oasis of calm that the place seems to exude. The feeling is surreal, as if I’ve suddenly been transported back in time. While the structures are modern and obviously built to accommodate present day tourism, history seeps into the very air we breathe in Corregidor. The streetcar—called tramvia—that picked us up at the dock is actually a pre-war type of vehicle. Around the island are still the ruins of the big guns and artillery used in 1941 when allied Filipino and US defenders took their last stand against the Japanese. There is a forlorn feeling going around the beautiful island, as if the pain and agony of dying countrymen remain stamped on the battlements and rusting machinery. And yet it is a place of courage, as General Douglas MacArthur made good on his promise to return to the Philippines by taking back Corregidor from the Japanese after the fury of war once again took the island in 1945.
A buffet lunch awaits the day-trippers at the Corregidor Hotel. After all, no one would feel very patriotic with an empty stomach. Personally, it is a smart thing to go for the guided tour with narration, as it makes the sights more relevant to the viewer when hearing stories of the distant past that occurred within the island. It also ensures you do not miss anything of interest as you explore the different sectors of Corregidor from the monumental General MacArthur Park to the peculiar Malinta Tunnel. Being a bombproof shelter, the tunnel has a certain mystique that is both eerie and reassuring at the same time. For an additional cost, we were treated to a light and sound show at the tunnel that reenacted wartime events. One can almost smell the gunpowder and feel the heat of battle with the impressive show. It was an audiovisual feast, to say the least.
While Corregidor Island symbolizes the heroism of Filipino and American soldiers during WWII, it is also a perfect destination for those less historically inclined. The picturesque island also doubles up as an adventure destination that caters to different travelers. Those inclined towards art can spend the day “Rock Balancing”. Apart from Corregidor’s gifted heritage is its gifted landscape, which is composed of white rocks with hints of red. Because of this odd yet aesthetic anomaly, the rocks have been called “bloodstones”. Hikers will also find a daytrip to Corregidor worthwhile as they could hike through forest trails and take rest stops at must see sights. Topside one can see the ruins of the mile long barracks and the old movie house a few steps away from the manicured Pacific War Memorial. Climb the Spanish lighthouse and reward a long walk with a magnificent view of Corregidor flanked by the South China Sea and Manila Bay. Middleside is a good place for families as parks are open for picnics, kite flying and other activities one simply cannot do in the cramped confines of the city. Here, one can stroll around the Fil-Am Friendship Park and go around the 3,000 square meter aviary to view a variety of feathered friends. If you’ve managed to circle every inch of the island and find yourself still thirsty for history, you can board an outrigger boat that hops on the neighboring isles of “concrete battleship” Fort Drum and the scenic coast of Mariveles. This boat tour also makes a stop for sport fishing, specifically at the Bagac coastline.
During the entire trip, I hardly said a word. I spent my time envisioning the scene of violence and patriotism in silence. My camera did the talking. The beauty of the island is apparent no matter the angle or the saturation. The island breathes of a time with a heady mix of bitter and sweet, of fear and courage, of heroism and a fight for sovereignty. This island, albeit calm and silent, is a breathing monument of a past that lives on through stories passed on by it’s tour guides and pictures taken by visitors. As we allow the island’s importance to sink in, it is clear that simply taking a stroll at the batteries and barracks is a reward in itself. There are rare occasions wherein the silence of one place cannot be contained and proves as deafening as the loudest noise. After a visit to Corregidor, I realize, maybe as a sort of epiphany, that this is one of those occasions. That despite the war-related memories this place brings forth, Corregidor now manifests a tranquil ambience, and this makes beautiful music to our ears.
Travel Notes
Day tour courtesy of Sun Cruises
Inclusions: Roundtrip ferry transfers; Shrine, entrance and terminal fees; Guided island tour, Buffet Lunch/ Php1,999
Additional Php150 for the Light and Sound Show at the Malinta Tunnel
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