Valley of Tranquility
by Vic Lactaoen
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Needing a break from work and time to sort out some problems, I decided to come alone to Bangued, the capital of Abra. I have never known nights like the nights I spent in the beautiful tranquil surroundings of Pamora Farm in Pidigan, Abra. Often glossed over in tourist brochures and guides on Northern Philippines, the province of Abra holds a storehouse of simple pleasures for the traveler who wants to imbibe nature and culture in refreshing doses. I have never seen anything featured about this underrated province up north except for the corny soft drink commercial on television where four traveling teeners passed through a dark eerie-looking tunnel. The tunnel used in that commercial is called the Tangadan Tunnel, one of the official landmarks of Abra Province.

My interest was caught when I came across a brochure promoting agri-tourism where Garreta, a town 15 minutes by public transportation from the provincial capital Bangued, boasts of a farm resort called Pamora Farm that raises French native chicken of the Sasso breed. This variety can grow to as big as one’s thanksgiving turkey.

It turns out that Pamora Farm, a new agri-eco tourism establishment, has been raising free-range chicken in Abra since the year 2000. Pamora Farm’s operation is fully integrated from raising, growing, and dressing to packaging these free-range chickens, ready for distribution. In Metro Manila, one can find these chickens being sold in specialty shops like Santi’s Delicatessen, Terry’s Selections, and Metro Market! Market! at the Fort. The farm also produces free-range chicken products like chicken liver pate, chicken gizzard pate and free-range chicken eggs.

I found my trip to this farm’s guesthouse interesting since I realized that one need not spend much to go to provence or other French countryside places to have a taste of French hospitality. For me it was a great discovery among my many trips around the country this year. Staying at the farm’s guesthouses may be limited, but one gets the feeling of French-Filipino complimentary fusion in terms of cuisine and hospitality. As of this writing, Pamora Farm has been recognized by the Department of Tourism as an agri-eco tourism destination.

Turning off from the Manila North Road at the junction of Narvacan in Ilocos Sur, one enters Abra through the Tangadan Tunnel and is welcomed by the provincial marker, “Ti Kabalyo” (the horse). Abra, for centuries, has been isolated from the rest of the world by the towering mountain ranges of the Cordilleras. Their natives, called Tinguians, boast of a rich cultural heritage which colorfully blends with Ilocano customs and traditions. The scenic spots all over the province are tailored for the eyes to behold, for indeed, these vistas are better seen because words fail to describe them adequately.

Abra, according to popular theory, was derived from the Spanish word “abrir” which means, to open. Spanish expeditionary forces found it difficult to penetrate Abra, considering that the only way to the interior is to sail in skiffs - a small sailboat with outriggers on the deep, swift flowing Abra River. During the Spanish time, Abra was part of Ilocos Sur, until it became a politico-military province in October, 1846. In 1917, an executive act by American Governor Franics Burton Harrison established Abra as an independent province. Of late, the province has rejected joining the Cordillera Autonomous Region (CAR) pointing out that the province belongs to Ilocandia historically, geographically, ethnologically and politically.

The province is home to several illustrious heroes including Gabriela Silang and statesman and former Speaker of the House, Don Quintin Paredes. In the town of Tayum, the well-preserved house of Gabriela Silang is worth a visit. It was here that the revolution of 1763 against Spanish domination was organized. Gabriela, who had Tingguian blood, carried on the revolt when her husband, Diego Silang, was shot in neighboring Vigan. The couple fought the Spaniards to the last breath of their lives together with the thousands of their followers. Another attraction is the residence of the former Philippine Ambassador to Sri Lanka, Ambassador Rosario Carino, where his vast art, Chinese porcelaine and rare book collection are kept. In nearby Mary Barbero Park, centuries-old acacia trees, natural springs and manmade waterfalls await visitors and travelers.

In Bangued, the capital town, one cannot help but notice the impressive façade of the San Lorenzo Ruiz Church which was built in 1722. The town has a few dining establishments offering authentic Ilocano dishes with distinct Abrenian provincial taste like pinakbet, dinengdeng, dinaldalem (minced pork and its internal organs) and bagnet. One can also order Igat, a fresh water eel, caught in the Abra river, cooked as paksiw or adobo. It is also sometimes dried and served with fresh slices of tomatoes with bagoong (shrimp paste).

Other exotic local fare include pacpacu, a local vegetable boiled and also served with tomatoes and bagoong (shrimp paste), Alingo, meat of wild boar or deer, boiled in lots of tomatoes, onions and ginger mixed with vegetables upo and patola. This meat has been scarce lately because of the ban in hunting these wild animals in the forests. There is also Lodong, a fresh water fish caught in the Abra River especially this time of the year, and cooked deep fried or sarciado (rich stew of tomatoes, garlic, ginger and onion). Of late, locals and visitors have been trooping to Pamora Farm for a taste of their free-range chicken cooked as Adobo, apritada, relleno (stuffed chicken) or simply as Tinola or Sinampalukan and served with steaming upland rice.

For souvenirs, get yourself the native weaves of Barangay Namarabar in Penarubia town. The hand-woven cloth produced in this sitio uses organic dye to color their textiles. For the ladies, take home with you their native handcrafted jewelries and ethnic furniture using wood from the province’s virgin forests.

How to get there: Take a scenic drive down to Ilocos Sur passing through Sta. Maria and then turning at the boundary of Abra. You can also take the Partas Bus either at their EDSA Pasay Station or Aurora Blvd Station in Cubao. Buses leave every hour but it is best to take the late night trip which gets you to Bangued in the early morning the following day. One way fare is Php580 with stops in Vigan or La Union.

Pamora Farms: Km. 396 Garreta, Pidigan Abra
Mobile Number: (0917) 537 5639
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.pamorafarm.com





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