Land of a Thousand Wonders
In this particular case, the ‘something special’ is Eskaya Beach Resort. The decision to go to this resort is simply a temptation of luxury which I couldn’t resist. Located in the well-known island of Panglao, the Eskaya Beach Resort offers its guests with posh accommodations in each of their 15 villas or balais. Eskaya, which is the name of the cultural tribe of Bohol, is designed by renowned architect Francisco Manosa. Holding true to its name, the resort exudes a native feel and everywhere you turn, you see something that has a true Filipino touch. The balais have bamboo roofs and modern interiors; and every single one has its own whirlpool, outdoor bathroom, an Ipod dock, DVD player and first-class amenities. To add a genuine tropical feel to the native surroundings, most of the villas have their own pool and a deck overlooking the vast Bohol Sea. Guests can also enjoy a swim at Eskaya’s private beach.
The resort also has two special villas that have even more impressive elements. On top of the standard features of each balai, such as the private pool and whirlpool, Balai Banai has two bedrooms, a family room, a dining room and a balcony facing the sea. Since this is a family villa, an X-Box is also provided in the living room to keep the kids busy. An overnight stay at Balai Banai costs USD 2,200 during peak season. The resort’s best villa, Balai Datu, has similar facilities such as Balai Banai, but because it is a Spa Presidential Villa that comes with an infinity pool, it costs a whole lot more. At USD 4,000 per night during peak season, this could easily be the most expensive type of accommodation in the country today, but as I lazily lounged at our pool deck, taking in the wonderful view in front of me, I thought to myself that with all its unique features and amenities, that the Eskaya Beach Resort, which is spread over 16 hectares of property, is really perfect for travelers who are willing to indulge in the best island experience, and honeymooners who want to enjoy a tropical vacation without ever having to leave their villa.
Dolphins!
The island of Bohol offers a host of activities and attractions for all its visitors to enjoy. My companions and I had an early start on our second day and we were up and about well before the first rays of sunshine to go to nearby Pamilacan Island for some dolphin and whale watching. It took us about an hour to get to the island but we were told by our guide that since the dolphins were in their natural habitat, it cannot be guaranteed that we will immediately see them in their expected location in the waters so we spent a few minutes more as our boat proceeded to an area behind the island. Searching for dolphins in the endless open sea is not an easy task, but our spotter is highly familiar with this territory so we had to do is look to where he is pointing and soon, a number of fins moving in synchrony came into view.
This is not my first dolphin encounter, but on this tour, as with every other dolphin watching tour I went on, I couldn’t help moving around the boat, rushing to where the playful creatures can best be seen. I am shed of all my worldly cares and feel a certain kind of high whenever they appear, moving together in fluid motion and swimming close to our boat as if knowing that they are the stars of the show. It’s hard to imagine that these friendly mammals were once hunted in these same waters for their meat.
The waters of Bohol is one of the richest in marine resources in the Philippines and the Pamilacan Island locals once made their living catching fish to sell and hunting for dolphins – and even sharks-- whose meat can be sold for much more. In efforts to preserve the bounty and marine diversity of the Bohol Sea, and in seeing that Pamilacan Island can be developed as a potential tourism site, the local government offered the hunters an alternative livelihood program – to work as guides and spotters during tours. Today, with their knowledge of marine life, these people who used take the lives of the dolphins now serve as stewards of the sea. And as I took a final glimpse of them moving gracefully in the waters as our boat made its way to Baclayon, I thanked God that the people of Bohol were able to save the dolphins and their other marine resources just in time.
A Step Back in Time
The excitement of the dolphin watching tour led me and my companions to exhaustion and being the sleep-deprived tourists that we were, we managed to catch a few minutes of sleep on the boat. Like Panglao, Baclayon is located also about an hour away from Pamilacan and upon waking up, an old structure that came into view stood as if welcoming each guest to Bohol.
This structure, which I later learned was the well-known Baclayon Church, is where our Bohol Countryside Tour began. Built in 1595 and finished in 1717, the Baclayon Church is the second oldest church in the Philippines (the oldest one being the San Agustin Church in Intramuros, Manila). The church, which was built from coral stones cut in squares and cemented together by up to a million egg whites, is the best preserved church in country, with most of its structure still intact. The museum, which used to be a convent, houses several religious artifacts dating back to the 1600s. Music sheets made from carabao skin and baptismal and marriage records from the Spanish era can also be found here, all preserved and completely intact.
After the Baclayon Church tour, we proceeded to the Clarin Ancestral House. This 168-year-old house which was declared a heritage site by the National Historical Institute is now a museum with a display of artifacts that tell stories of how the political family of the Clarins and other well-known people lived during the 1800s. From heavy doors with wooden latches to secret passageways, the ancestral house leads visitors to an interesting trip to the past.
After a tour of the museum, guests can enjoy some native Boholano delicacies such as torta Loayan (local omelet) and putomaya (sticky rice boiled in coconut milk) at Café Olegario which can be found at the ground floor of the house. We wanted to stay for some snacks, but we had to head to the Loboc River for the lunch cruise.
Scenic Cruise
The town of Loboc is known for the floating restaurants that cruise through the scenic and winding Loboc River. As we enjoyed the buffet lunch while being serenaded with both Filipino and English songs, the floating restaurant made its way through the waters. Not all boats go in the same direction, though. Some cruises lead to Busay Falls, while others take the opposite direction where Ati Tribe members can be found. Ours took us to the Ati Tribe. The show began as soon as we neared the place where they were waiting. With music being played from drums and other instruments made from bamboo, the Ati children rushed to showcase their different skills and talents such as shooting targets and jumping through a ring of fire.
After the 45-minute cruise, we headed to the town of Carmen to see the famous chocolate hills.
A Thousand Kisses
1,268 hills shaped like Hershey kisses leave quite a lot of people in wonder. No other place on earth has this kind of natural formation. The most number of hills can be found in Carmen. This is where an observation deck was constructed to give tourists a better view of the perfectly-shaped limestone hills. Hailed as a National Geological Monument, the chocolate hills is also vastly being promoted by the people of Bohol so others may vote for it to be declared as one of the Seven New Wonders of Nature.
Sheer Pleasure
As we went back to the resort completely happy but with aching muscles, we looked forward to our treatment at the Handuraw Spa. Illuminated by soft lights at night, the spa within the Eskaya Resort uses skillful renditions of Filipino and Asian spa treatments and rich spa rituals using a combination of music and touch therapy. The Kadaet Massage we had lasted for an hour and thirty minutes and I savored every practiced stroke to ease my tired body.
We woke up to the first light of day to pack our things, take a final stroll around the Eskaya property and spend some time by the main infinity pool, our favorite place at the resort. Fronting the Bohol Sea, this infinity pool is the first thing that gives every guest a clue of the luxury that awaits them. I sat there, watching as the waters of the pool seem to stretch out to meet the sea, and I got to thinking that the weekend we had was not enough to cover all the attractions of Bohol-- there are too many interesting places, too many stories to uncover, too many sites to behold -- but it was definitely enough to give me memories which will never make me forget the first time I set foot in this land of a thousand wonders.
Travel Notes
The Eskaya Beach Resort, as well as other resorts in the island, can easily arrange whatever type of tour you desire, but if you have time to plan ahead, you may also inquire with several tour operators and find out which ones offer the best rate.
Some agencies offer separate packages for Dolphin Watching and Countryside tours, but the Pamilacan Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours offers a combined package that costs Php10,200 for three people.
Pamilacan Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours
(63 38) 540 9279 / (63 919) 730 6108
www.dolphinwhalewatch.homestead.com
Where to stay
Eskaya Beach Resort
Barangay Tawala, Panglao Island
(63 2) 727 4927 / 744 6417
www.eskayabeach.com
Where to eat
The Bohol Bee Farm has a restaurant that serves superb breads, pastries, snacks and meals that are both healthy and appetizing.
Bohol Bee Farm
Dauis, Panglao Island
(63 38) 502 2288
www.boholbeefarm.com
How to get there
Domestic carriers have daily flights from Manila to Tagbilaran, the capital city of Bohol. For bookings and inquiries, you may call Philippine Airlines at (63 2) 855 8888 or Cebu Pacific at (63 2) 702 0888.
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