Mystified by the Mountains
by Chiara Zambrano
primary photo unavailable
            I expect this little note shall find you basking in the tropical sunshine, tanning yourselves to a crisp golden brown while sprawled across our spectacular white beaches.
 
You’re wearing slippers… and a swimsuit, or maybe shorts and a tank top. Heck, maybe even nothing at all. But a satisfied smile is on your face as you walk along the shoreline. And as you stare wistfully out into the ocean, or gracefully emerge from out of the water, you tell yourself how this vacation is every bit as great as you imagined, and as relaxing as you deserve. Welcome to the Philippines… a paradise more magnificent than we can ever properly advertise!
 
This is a call to lose the rubber flipflops, don the boots, and go trekking through the Philippines’ mystifying mountains.
 
            More than just being an archipelago with beaches to die for, the Philippines can also boast of lush mountain ranges, with the longest one spanning more than 200 miles long. It is home to the likes of the Philippine tarsier, one of the smallest mammals in the world; the Philippine eagle, one of the largest eagles in the world, with a wingspan that reaches 8 feet; and thousands of other species of flora and fauna. To this day, many Philippine summits remain uncharted, with many more species yet to be discovered.
           
Despite this, there are now over a hundred mountains with established trails to climb, and these come in all shapes and elevations. These mountains are the ambassadors of Philippine biodiversity- through them, even city-dwellers like us get a chance to revel in its wonders. And trekking is our tool for carrying this out.
 
Some summits are within a few hours’ reach, so easy to climb that you can be home in time for dinner. Some you can climb in 2 days, perfect for the weekend warrior. And there are some that take a serious four or five days to complete, and require a considerable amount of training. I’ve taken the liberty of introducing to you the tallest peaks of the Philippines’ three main island groups – Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao- based on my personal experience.
 
They’re not the easiest mountains to summit by far. But if there’s ever a checklist of “must-climb” Philippine mountains, these three will be high on the list. I know they’re high up on mine. And I hope I can convince you to go out and create your own mountain experience. I believe there’s a mountain out there suited to every kind of willing soul. You virtually just have to pick your poison.
 
MOUNT PULAG (LUZON)
 
            Mount Pulag is the highest peak in Luzon, a dormant volcano rising above the northernmost regions of the Philippines.
 
It is part of the Cordillera mountain range, home of the brave indigenous peoples called the Igorot. Some of these tribes were once known for their warriors and headhunters, but they are no longer the war-like tribes of centuries ago. The rest of the rich Cordillera heritage, however, is still very much alive, and can be seen while on the path to the Pulag summit. You may pass rice terraces and traditional houses along the way, and cross old hanging bridges that stretch over raging streams.
 
The mountain guides themselves are from some of the various Cordillera tribes. To Kankanaey, Ibaloi, and Kalanguya tribes, Pulag is a holy mountain, and those who guide climbers to its summit never fail to tell the visitors as much. They caution the mountaineers to refrain from cussing, playing loud music, and acting boisterously, for they fear it will anger the spirits inhabiting Pulag.
 
One thing you will notice about Mount Pulag is the drastic changes in its appearance, the higher and higher you climb. At the onset, it may resemble any other mountain trail, except for the cold air that only the Cordilleras can provide. But halfway up, you will find it transforming into an eerie mossy forest, with moss hanging from branches, moss clinging to rocks, made even more eerie by the thick fog almost covering your view of the climber in front of you. The air becomes twice as chilly when you enter this part.
 
And then, almost as suddenly as it appears, the mossy forest fades out to reveal the famous Grasslands. Here, all trees and rocks disappear, leaving only a valley of tall grass that stretches as far as the eye can see. One guide of the Kalanguya tribe once explained to me that this is where they got the name “pulag.” In their native dialect, the name literally means “bald.” Climbers know this area to be the homestretch of the Mount Pulag adventure, with the summit only hours away.
 
There are three trails that can take you to the summit: The Ambangeg Trail- known as the “Easy Trail,” requiring only 5-6 hours of trekking through gently rolling terrain to get to the peak; The Akiki Trail or the “Killer Trail,” which takes two days and nearly 13 hours of climbing very steep slopes; and the Tawangan Trail, the longer and more scenic of the trails, which also needs 2 days to the summit. In the end, it all depends on what kind of climber you are, and how much you want to push yourself. Pulag is just there waiting. All trails eventually merge into the Grasslands, at which point all climbers can set up camp and share the strange experience of spending the night in freezing to sub-zero temperatures… in a tropical country.
 
Nothing, however, caps a Pulag climb better than an early morning assault to the summit, for a view of the famous sunrise. Here, as you wait for dawn to break before your eyes, you feel your muscles aching, and you ask yourself why on earth you embarked on this crazy adventure. But at that precise moment when the sun emerges, when its first rays kiss your cold cheeks, and you look around to see nothing surrounding you but friends and a sea of pure clouds, you will realize that this is the reason why. And that it’s all worth it after all.
 
MOUNT KANLAON (VISAYAS)
           
            Mountains are often climbed for the bragging rights that come with reaching its summit. I found myself propelled by the same motivation, until Mount Kanlaon humbled me into realizing the folly of my ways. I can say, without a moment’s hesitation, that this is the most spectacular mountain I have ever climbed, with its hidden wonders bordering on surreal, half the time leaving me and my climbing buddies shaking our heads in disbelief.
 
Surrounded mostly by the sugarcane plantations of Negros province, Kanlaon doesn’t have that much competition in the height contest. It is the tallest mountain in the Visayas, although only the 27th highest in all of the Philippines. It is the largest active volcano in the country, with its last major eruption killing 3 mountaineers in 1996. The mountain still sporadically spews rocks and ash until now, occasionally forcing park rangers to close the mountain off for months at a time. Legend has it that Kanlaon is named after the supreme deity “Lakan Laon,” or “The Exalted Laon,” a man once believed to have slain a seven-headed dragon that wreaked havoc from the mouth of the volcano.
 
If there’s one thing my Kanlaon experience taught me, it’s that not all climbs are about the summit. Rey, our dependable guide, made sure we understood this very early on. When we arrived at the jumpoff point already half a day behind schedule, all anxious and ready to make up for lost time, Rey sat us down, and cooked us sinigang. And when we asked him if he wasn’t worried about our schedule, he just laughed.
 
“Masyado kayong nagmamadali. Relax lang dapat tayo. Hindi niyo maeenjoy yung bundok niyan eh. (You worry too much. We should all relax… you won’t enjoy the mountain being like that.)”
 
As it turned out, his reply became the theme of our Kanlaon experience.
 
We trekked with a casual pace, enjoying each other’s stories, soaking up every bit of the scenery. And I cannot put in words, even to this day, how absolutely beautiful Mount Kanlaon is. We trekked alongside bright yellow birds, and other creatures I thought I could only find in pet shops. It was the first time a saw trees look EXACTLY like a soldier’s fatigues; they were so alike I almost reached out to make sure they weren’t commandos in disguise. A careful look at an ordinary leaf would reveal an intricate border, while flowers of different shapes and colors lined the trail. There was always something extra special in every tree, every rock, every waterfall, every blade of grass. I checked with my companions to see if they were noticing it, too. They were. “If mountains were women, this one is a damn hot chick,” one of my friends exclaimed in disbelief.
 
            Rey explained that the volcanic nature of Kanlaon that made it so unique. And it kept getting better as we pressed on. On the second day, we came upon a clearing in the trees. It was our glimpse of Kanlaon’s old crater, now known as the magnificent Margaha Valley- an unbelievably vast expanse of flat land, large enough to fit several football fields, right smack in the middle of the mountain. At the sight of it, we went berserk, racing down toward the valley, proceeding afterward to run and jump and roll around and behave like absolute fools, laughing insanely in the process. One companion showed us grass that was actually edible, and we nibbled like rabbits. After regaining composure, we had lunch in the valley, sitting on grass that was as soft as cushions.
 
We could see the crater summit overhead, but at that point, no one was in a hurry anymore. No, this adventure was no longer about reaching the summit at all.
 
            But when we did reach the peak, we had to give it respect as well. The gaping volcano crater, with blue sulphur steaming below, was unlike anything I’ve ever seen. We had to crawl on our hands and knees to peek into its mouth; the edge of the crater, Rey explained, is brittle and could collapse any time. And then right there, at the mouth of Kanlaon’s crater, Rey told us the story of the 1996 eruption, and how, as their guide, he tried to save three mountaineers, but failed.
 
            Mount Kanlaon is so beautiful, it almost isn’t right. Even on the way down, crystal clear crater lakes greeted us left and right. When we stopped for sandwiches, there just had to be an underground cave nearby, and we just had to find nests of the famous balinsasayaw perched on its crevices. There just had to be a neon green garden glowing with cushiony moss, one that you had to enter single file in order not to tarnish. The had to be rocks covered in moss so soft and thick that if you lean against it, you leave your shape like a crime scene chalk line. And why not throw in an entire valley full of dwarfed bonsai trees that make you feel like giants. The mountain is the stuff of fantasies. It almost isn’t real. But it is, and it’s well within your reach.
 
MOUNT APO (MINDANAO)
 
Behold the poster boy of all Philippine mountains: Mount Apo, the highest peak of all. This king of mountains reigns in the south, towering proud over the island group of Mindanao. And no Filipino mountaineer’s career is ever finished without this feather in their cap.
 
“Apo,” meaning elder, grandfather, or god, is also an active volcano, and unlike its other volcanic counterparts, this mountain is constantly spewing sulphur from its many vents. Locals prefer this, because to them, it means Apo’s wrath is not bottled up.
 
My Apo experience was less than perfect, but unforgettable nonetheless. It played like a video game– a race against time and the setting sun. To make a long story short, logistical troubles turned what should have been a two-day climb to the summit into a one-day affair. The goal: to reach the summit before sunset, or not summit at all. A daunting thought, since at dawn, we were still several hours from the base of the mountain. Would Apo permit this foolish task?
 
Save for rest stops, there wasn’t much time to look around and enjoy the view. Nonetheless, the trail was incredible. One minute you’re hopping along a flower-laden path, the next, you’re balancing on a fallen (and slippery) log, willing yourself not to look down. You cross streams, rappel on vines, slip, fall, and laugh off the pain. This was Apo, after all. No one expected it to be easy.
 
Eight or nine hours into the climb, we entered the Boulder Valley. This is the point where the mountain falls away, leaving only large chunks of volcanic rock that go on and on to the top. Without any trail to follow, it becomes every climber for himself, each one leaping from boulder to boulder, onwards and upwards, to what we believed was already the summit in the distance. And just like a video game, we had to do this in the fastest possible time, because surrounding sulphur vents kept spewing suffocating fumes into our nostrils. This goes on for more than hour.
 
My boots, conveniently enough, had to pick this time to split open and give up on me. I had to finish the rest of the climb occasionally taping and tying my shoes shut. From then on, I was a tired and cranky mess. And what I thought was the top, was just a rest stop after all.
 
“10 minute rest, then packs up again,” shouts our guide, Lito.
 
We were surrounded by mountain walls. There was nowhere else to go, I thought. “Packs up? To where?” I ask in disbelief.
 
“There.” And he points to one of the mountain walls… one that inclined to about 70-80 degrees.
 
I had never been more ready to give up than at that moment.
 
But one thing I learned, never underestimate the power of a funny guide. The boys from EDGE, the group who guided us, saved our spirits with their stupid jokes and funny voices. Nothing like a good laugh to take the fatigue away. And sure enough, we press on, overcoming the 80-degree madness step after painful step.
 
The weary group stepped onto the summit just as the last light of day fizzled out. And save for 2 broken pairs of shoes, we all made it in time, and in one piece. No matter what the circumstance, we are now summiteers of Mount Apo. And no one can ever take that feather away from our hats.
 
MT. PULAG
 
ELEVATION: 2,922 meters (9,586 feet) above sea level
 
LOCATION: Kabayan, Benguet (Cordillera Autonomous Region)
 
DURATION OF THE CLIMB:
  1. Via AMBANGEG TRAIL : 2 days, 5-6 hours to summit
  2. Via AKIKI TRAIL : 3 days, 12-13 hours to summit
  3. Via TAWANGAN TRAIL : 3 days, 13-14 hours to summit
 
BEFORE THE CLIMB:
  1. Call DENR Kabayan to schedule your climb, your guide, and your jeep rental.
  2. Go online to look for available inns and hotels in Baguio City.
  3. (From Manila) In Cubao, take a Victory Liner bus to Baguio City: approx 6 hours
  4. Shop for supplies (food, batteries, butane tanks for your stove, etc.)
  5. If lacking cold weather clothes, shop at any “ukay-ukay” second-hand store you can find.
  6. Eat a good meal, pack your bags, get a good night’s rest.
  7. On the day of the climb, proceed with your rented jeep from Baguio to DENR Kabayan for registration and briefing.
  8. Proceed to jump-off of selected trail. Instruct driver when to return to pick you up and where.
 
DENR Park Superintendent for Mt. Pulag, Emerita Tamiray
+63919 631 5402 / +63917 630 3204
 
DENR Mt. Pulag Office
(074) 444 7428
 
BUDGET:
PhP 2000 to 4000, depending on the number of climbers
 
POSSIBLE SIDE TRIPS:
 
  1. KABAYAN TOWN, with authentic Kabayan weaving
  2. BATAD, Benguet
  3. BAGUIO CITY
 
MT. KANLAON  
 
ELEVATION: 2,435 meters (7,989 feet) above sea level
 
LOCATION: Negros Island, Western Visayas
 
DURATION OF THE CLIMB:
  1. Via GUINTUBDAN-WASAY TRAIL : 4 days, 15-16 hours to summit
  2. Via MAPOT-MASULOG TRAIL : 2-3 days, 9-11 hours to summit
 
BEFORE THE CLIMB:
1. Call Mt. Kanlaon National Park to reserve a slot for your climbing group. MKNP limits its climbers to only 9 at a time.
2. Submit the necessary documents as instructed.
3. If coming from Manila or elsewhere, book a ticket to Bacolod City, Negros Occidental.
4. Butane tanks and the like are not allowed on the plane; purchase these along with other supplies in Bacolod City.
5. Proceed via public jeep or minibus to jumpoff point of desired trail.
 
Park Superintendent for Mt. Kanlaon, Angelo Bibar
+63917 301 1410 / +63919 836 1905
 
Rey Estelloso, mountain guide
+63927 753 1695
 
BUDGET:
PhP 7,000 to 8,000 inclusive of airfare
 
POSSIBLE SIDETRIPS:
 
  1. SIPALAY BEACH, Sipalay
  2. BACOLOD CITY

    MT. APO

    ELEVATION: 2,956 meters (9,691 feet) above sea level
 
LOCATION: DAVAO DEL SUR and NORTH COTABATO, MINDANAO
 
DURATION OF THE CLIMB:
  1. Via KAPATAGAN TRAIL (Davao del Sur) : 2 days to summit, 2 days down
  2. Via KIDAPAWAN TRAIL (North Cotabato) : 2 days to summit, 2 days down
 
BEFORE THE CLIMB:
1. The tourism office to contact depends on your jump-off point; best to contact the guides from EDGE to discuss possible routes.
2. Book your flight to Davao early, in order to match your itinerary.
3. Submit all requirements beforehand to avoid delays during the climb itself.
4. Butane tanks and the like are not allowed on the plane; purchase these along with other supplies in Davao City.
 
EDGE Outdoors-
LITO ESPARAR (GUIDE) +63927 795 3123
JAY (GUIDE) +63929 486 7688
 
BUDGET:
PhP 10,000 inclusive of airfare
 
POSSIBLE SIDETRIPS:
 
  1. 380-METER ZIPLINE at Camp Sabros, Kapatagan (before jump-off)
  2. PHILIPPINE EAGLE CENTER, Davao City
  3. DAVAO CITY PROPER





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