Silence in the Cordilleras
by Anna Rodriguez
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SILENCE --- it’s a hard-to-find commodity when you live in the middle of a capital city. And when you’re a heavy thinker like me, the mental cacophony combined with the constant hum of metropolitan traffic can drive anyone positively mental. During times like this, a long trip out of the city becomes a necessity rather than an option. On one such moment, I packed a bag in the middle of the night and headed off to the AUTOBUS station in España and took the midnight express to the far north.

The ride to Banaue is a long one, which is why traveling in the dead of the night is probably a good idea. Aside from the streets being devoid of traffic, you can get your hours of sleep while traveling; which is good if you can’t extend your weekend too much before your boss notices your absence. The sun would have just yawned its way into the sky when you arrive at Banaue, and the cool, crisp air is enough to make you grateful for leaving the hot, dusty metropolis. It was my first time this part of the Philippines, my northern Luzon exploits having then been limited to the more tourist-friendly destination of Baguio City where city folks rush when the summer heat begins to take its toll. By tourist-friendly, I mean only that Baguio seems to have the lion’s share of hotels, restaurants and creature comforts. Banaue, while famed the world over for being the home of the agricultural marvel known as the rice terraces, seems to have retained its bucolic charm, which in the Philippines means an obvious lack of visitor luxuries. The requisite thing to do in Banaue is obviously to take a tricycle to the viewpoint to see the terraces. The ride up is dotted with numerous viewpoints, any one of which can give you a breathtaking view of what is considered to be one of the world’s wonders. The rice terraces, built by hand and farmed by generations of Ifugao families are awe-inspiring to say the least. But while Banaue is home to the most famous of the terraces, the smaller terraces in surrounding towns are to me, even more deserving of a look-see. Shops full of souvenirs and tribal arts and crafts predictably punctuate the top of the mountain road. If you must purchase a memento, it is a good idea to buy a blanket or any other item showcasing the skill of the Cordillera weavers. Bargain wisely though, as tourism seems to be the main source of income for most locals. It was immensely satisfying to take a walk along the town’s main road, as Banaue is a picturesque town. There are quite a number of places to stay in Banaue, most of them pretty basic. Drinking seems to be a local pastime and apart from the hearty laughter of merry men and the obtrusive sound of songs being belted from the karaoke machine, there is not much to do in Banaue for those looking for activity.

From Banaue, I rode a jeepney to Bangaan, a small farming community where solitude and silence seems a way of life. The Bangaan Family Inn where I stayed for a couple of nights delivered exactly that --- family style service in a clean, homey atmosphere. I rented an authentic Ifugao hut perched on the side of the mountain. I spent hours of soul searching on a hammock strung on the rafters beneath the hut’s wooden floor. You almost forget the freezing cold water you have to take your bath with when you look out and see what seems to be your own personal view of the Bangaan terraces. Many backpackers choose to make a quick stop at Bangaan then move on to Batad. I took my sweet time and stayed for a while, reading and eating vegetable curry to my heart’s content.

The village of Batad is accessible via a 2-hour hike depending on your level of fitness. It’s quite an easy climb but you have to be reasonably fit to enjoy the hike. I set out early in the day to avoid the scorching sun and was joined by a lone foreign hiker. Drinks are sold at a few stops along the way but it is of course always best to bring your own water. By the time I reached Batad, the view of verdant rice paddies was no longer a novelty and yet, each place I arrived at in the Cordilleras wove its own enchanting spell. It is perhaps at this point in my trip when I started to yearn for a companion – if only to share the beauty of the natural environment for which I am at a loss of words to describe. I met many Europeans and Westerners in Batad and I couldn’t help but silently wonder why it is that very few Filipinos make the effort to visit these places but find ways to leave the country to marvel at the jewels of other countries. There are quite a number of quaint restaurants and places to stay in the village. The range of cuisines available are surprisingly diverse, perhaps a testament to the number of foreign tourists that find their way to Batad. Aside from the amphitheater of rice terraces that are carved around the bowl shaped valley, another 45-minute walk down the terraces from the heart of the village will bring one to the Tappia waterfalls. You must visit it to appreciate just how spectacular it is.

While it was extremely tempting to stay where I was, I eventually found my way back to Banaue and took a small bus to Bontoc, from where I was planning to end my trip with a visit to Sagada. Bontoc is another 2 and half hours from Banaue and the trip via public bus could be a little uncomfortable. I shared my seat with a few live chickens and a crying baby, both of which made me wonder if I should have joined the men folk who chose to ride on the roof of the mini-bus. But the discomfort is worth it as the views are fantastic on this part of the mountain range. Bontoc is the trading and business center of this part of the province and is perhaps the most “citified”. Near the big market, many stores sell 2nd hand clothing and goods, mostly from donations to the Salvation Army. If you are going short on cash it is advisable to get some money in Bontoc as many banks have their offices here. Just ask any of the locals and it is an easy task to find the jeepney stop where one can get a ride to Sagada.

Sagada by itself deserves a separate write up. As I discovered, it takes some work to get there and yet, those who have come find themselves finding ways to return as soon as schedules permit. A backdrop of indigenous pine trees combined with limestone outcrops, lush valleys and tasteful architecture make Sagada a refreshing sight in a tropical landscape. The cold climate and altitude, which allows for the constant fog and mist that shrouds the community, deliver an atmosphere of utmost serenity. Noise seems almost criminal here. The presence of St.Mary the Virgin church in the middle of town seems to set the tone for a solemn and sober sojourn. While a lively nightlife is obviously not to be expected here, there are many things to see and do in Sagada. A heavy breakfast of pancakes, served with yogurt and fresh honey is a great way to start the day. Perhaps the most popular tourist sight are the hanging coffins, most of which were carved by the elderly themselves before their deaths. Tourists can hike down Echo valley and enter the caves. I found it most distressing to note that anyone can pretty much do anything they like, which meant many of the coffins had been looted and desecrated, with many bones being taken home as souvenirs, gruesome as that may sound! Taking walks is the happening thing in Sagada and it can give you the chance for some exercise without you even noticing it. You can follow the mountain ridge and inhale the fresh mountain air towards Mt. Ampacao, or walk from Bang-an to Lake Danum.

It is easy get lonely during trips like this, although people like me derive a sort of perverse pleasure in momentary loneliness. It is rewarding for me to lose track of time every once in a while, to get lost in my thoughts and to take pleasure in the silence of beautiful surroundings. A trip to the Cordilleras is the perfect escape from the noise of my daily affairs. It is when the silence gets most deafening, that you can hear the whispers of your soul and recognize just how wonderful the world is.




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