Islands Philippines Updates

A Harvest Holiday

There would seem to be nothing out of the ordinary about Sariaya, Quezon. A small, rural town with a population of a few thousand people, it is hardly the kind of place that would make it on a tourist’s itinerary. Pastoral and bucolic, it possesses a different charm and an almost loud silence that is reserved for authors of books and those in search of solitude. Except that is, on the day of the harvest festival. Every year on the 15th of May, the town bursts into a flurry of color and restless activity. Indeed, the feast day of San Isidro Labrador, patron saint of the farmers, would never go by without fanfare. After all, for a town that subsists on its agriculture produce, there is nothing more important than thanking the heavens for a good harvest.

A couple of days before the festivity, houses lining the streets of a predetermined procession route, decorate their facades with the fruits of their harvest. It is a contest of creativity and ingenuity, as families work together to make their display the best and most attractive of the lot. Thin rice wafers shaped like leaves called “kiping”, are baked and prepared in bright hues of purple, orange, yellow, red and green. These are strung together to make mock chandeliers and colorful lanterns called “aranyas” which are hung from windows or pasted on walls like a dizzying, kaleidoscopic wallpaper. Curtains of pastillas (milk candy), green beans, small eggplants and other agricultural crop frame the heads of young children as they peer out into the streets with anticipation. More creative folk stuff sacks with straw to make farmer figures complete with straw hats and cardboard bolos. Papier-mache carabaos share top billing with their straw masters on top poles along the rustic streets. Thin bamboo boughs called “bagacays” are tied to trees and toasted rice and popcorn, candies and bunches of bananas, cheese curls and other goodies, waiting to be grabbed by the crowd as soon as the procession passes by. Bakers make big bread figures in the shape of fish, lobsters and crabs, also to give away to the festival crowd.

The trip should take about 2 and 1/2 hours by land travel from Manila. Bus companies offering trips to Lucena, Daet and Legaspi are all sure to pass by Sariaya, although it would be good advice to remind the conductor to stop by the town as its quite easy to miss.

On the morning of the festival, judges roam the streets with the tourists to determine the top three displays of the year. Although Sariaya is devoid of posh hotels and other tourist accomodations, it is here that the famous Filipino hospitality can be put to the test. Even the simplest homes lay out a hearty feast, open to anyone with an appetite and a knack for interesting conversation. The people are a cheerful lot, perhaps a little giddy at the chance to host what to them is a grand-scale event, a little rush of adrenaline in an otherwise sleepy town. After a full lunch and a short siesta, it’s off to the beautiful church at the center of town where a mass begins the highlight of the day—the procession of the statue of San Isidro, patron saint. Carried on a gleaming silver chariot call a “caroza” , the image is walked through the streets followed by a mass of people waiting to collect some goodies along the way. As soon as the image passes by, men with sharp bolos cut down the bagacays and it’s a happy, if somewhat rowdy, grab for the food and goodies tied to the bamboo trees. Men call out to those watching from inside houses and are rewarded with candies and coins thrown out into the street. Mischievous people hose down the mass with streams of water, as it is believed that this would prevent draught from coming and thus ensure another good harvest for the coming year. As the sounds of the procession move off into the distance, residents go back inside their houses and eat a filling merienda (snack) of rice cakes, pancit (noodles), dinuguan (blood stew), and sweets.

When night falls and the streets become quieet once again, its another year of work, and waiting in thanksgiving for the next bountiful harvest. As for the visitors, they leave with the knowledge that there is something not so ordinary about Sariaya, the sleepy little rural town south of Manila. Perhaps, it might find it’s way again, into next year’s itinerary.

TRAVEL NOTES:
Experience the annual cultural festivity with IslandsPhilippines.net

Let it also be a day of culinary exploration as we take you to charming old houses
that serve delectable local cuisine.

Join us for a lovely Day Trip to the countryside and embrace the local culture.

Package Rate:
P2,980 per person
P1,500 for 12 years old and below

Inclusions:
• Air-conditioned Transportation
• Meals in Quezon town (breakfast, lunch and merienda)
• English Speaking Tour Guide

Date: May 15, 2010 (Saturday)
Meeting Place: Hotel InterContinental, No. 1 Ayala Avenue, Makati City
Departure Time: 5:00 am
Expected Time of Arrival in Manila: 8:30 pm

Come and join us! Otherwise, you have to wait another year!

For bookings, please email or call us at:
travel@islandsphilippines.net
Tel. No. 638-8374

Laing Recipe

Laing is one of the most popular dishes of the Bicol Region. It is also called “pinangat” and is most popular in Camalig, a small municipality in the province of Albay, located at the foot of the famous Mayon Volcano.

Made from gabi leaves and Bicol’s most famous ingredients, coconut milk and chili, Laing has to be cooked just right or else you will be left with an itchy mouth and tongue.

Laing has many variations and because of its popularity, this dish can be found around the Philippines; but the best versions still come from its origin – the Bicol Region -- where the locals know just how to cook it to perfection.

Making your very own Laing

½ kilo gabi leaves
½ kilo gabi stems
Coconut milk from 2 coconuts or 1 pack of coconut milk mixed with one pack of coconut cream
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
1 sliced onion
1 tbsp of grated ginger
salt & pepper to taste
2 siling haba
3-4 siling labuyo

Remove the skin of the gabi stems. Cut the stems 2 inches in length. Tear the gabi leaves and dry outside with the cut stems.

Combine the ingredients together in a big casserole -- garlic, onion and ginger, gabi leaves and stems and coconut cream. Cover and slowly cook for about an hour over low fire. When the coconut milk dries up, turn off the fire. Add the siling haba and chopped siling labuyo. Stir the laing well until all the ingredients are evenly distributed. Add salt and pepper as desired.

Pork, fish and crabmeat may be added to this dish. Just put them in the casserole and cook with all the laing ingredients, making sure that the meat is placed on top of everything. Once done, mince the pork or fish meat and mix into the cooked laing.

Best served the day after since flavors of ingredients have neutralized.

Heritage Down the Northern Coast

It was a little past 8:00 pm when my friend and I finally arrived at Fort Ilocandia in Laoag, more than 11 hours after leaving Manila. Since it was too late to do anything, we decided to have dinner in the hotel. We had chosen to drive because we fancied ourselves travelers, not tourists, and wanted to see Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte on our own terms. Our terms, for that first night, would be the Chinese restaurant in the hotel and then straight to bed.

Bright and early the next morning, we headed out to Laoag City proper and discovered that Ilocos is very tourist friendly. There are signs at every road junction pointing you in the direction you want to go. Even without a map, you can’t get lost. If you’ve only got a couple of days, I recommend taking the first flight out of Manila and hiring a van (prices start at P3,000/day) or if you don’t need air-conditioning, hire one of the regular jeepneys to drive you around (for about P1,500/day).

Say what you will about the Marcoses, Ilocos might make you want to take back a few of those words. Traveling around the province is like stepping straight into Ferdinand Marcos’ vision of the New Society. Driving is a breeze on the well-maintained roads. It looks prosperous, as the houses out in the middle of the ever-present tobacco fields are relatively large, made out of concrete, and modern. Even the little baranggays well off the beaten path are immaculately clean.

Laoag City
Like every town of a decent size in Ilocos, 300 years of Spanish occupation left an indelible stamp here in the form of the centuries-old Laoag Church. Originally a wooden structure built in 1580, it was replaced by the present structure in 1612. About 85 meters away, you’ll find its sinking bell tower. Old folks’ tales say that a person on horseback could once pass through its entrance. Today, it’s a few steps down to the entrance of the tower, and you have to stoop to make it through the doorway. We snapped a few pictures then asked directions to the Museo Ilocos Norte, which was a short 5-minute walk away.

Field after field of tobacco plants is another very visible remnant of the Spanish occupation. From 1781 to 1881, the Ilocanos were forced to plant nothing but tobacco and sell the leaves only to the government. Laoag City was the administrative center of the Spanish tobacco monopoly, and the Museo Ilocos Norte is housed in the restored Tabacalera Warehouse. The museum is an excellent place to learn about the Ilocano culture and way of life.

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse
The 45 km. drive further north to our next destination was almost zen-like in its serenity. Aside from the occasional bus, we had the highway practically to ourselves. The tobacco fields outside the city gave way to breath-taking views of the South China Sea on the left and twenty minutes after leaving Laoag, there it was, rising from the trees on the right - the Cape Bojeador Lighthouse. Faro de Cabo Bojeador has been guiding ships away from the rocky shores of the town of Burgos since March 30, 1892 and is still in operation today.

The lighthouse, the highest in the Philippines, is open to the public. There is a small museum at the first level holding memorabilia, but the highlight of our visit was definitely climbing an antique iron, spiral staircase all the way up to the lens room where you will be rewarded with a 360 degree view - the endless blue of the sea in front of you, the green, rolling hills of Ilocos behind you, and its shoreline seeming to stretch endlessly on either side.

Marcos Country
Knowing we had over 50 km. to cover to get to our next destination, we grabbed a quick bite and drove back south to Batac, to visit the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum, the first stop on what we called the Marcos trail.

In what must be one of Imelda Marcos’ biggest lapses in judgement, she refused to bury her husband unless he was given a proper hero’s farewell and laid to rest at the Libingan ng mga Bayani. The Philippine government said, “No way, Jose!” and this was how the Marcos Mausoleum was born. The outside is a severe cube of adobe blocks. At its entrance are several wreaths of white flowers from the loving Meldy, proclaiming undying love for her Andy. As you enter, Gregorian chants echo softly. You take a few more steps, your eyes adjust to the gloom, and there, inside a protective glass case, spotlighted in the middle of the darkened room, is what are supposedly the earthly remains of Ferdinand Edralin Marcos, the 10th President of the Republic of the Philippines.

In stark contrast to this is the museum, where you will find relics of Ferdinand Marcos’ 20-year rule – pictures show a vibrant man in his prime, excerpts from his speeches undeniable evidence of his brilliance.

Just 4 km. from Batac is the imposing Paoay Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it was restored for the 1983 wedding of Irene Marcos and Greggy Araneta. The parish was founded by the Augustinians in 1593, and the cornerstone of the church laid in 1704. The bell-tower on one side was used as a lookout by the Katipuneros, and again by guerrillas during World War II. If you’ve got a head for heights, and don’t mind making your way up rickety wooden steps that seem as old as the church, make sure to climb to the top of the bell-tower and try to imagine what it was like for those lookouts. The bell is still rung 4 times a day.

From the church, just follow the signs to the Malacanang of the North. Built in 1977 as the official residence of Pres. Marcos in the north, it stands on 5 hectares along the shores of Lake Paoay, and has a world-class, 18-hole golf course for its back yard. Today, the rooms look a little bare, and the structure itself is showing signs of wear. But many iconic images we still have in our heads of the Marcos era (a buff Marcos showing off on water-skis, golfing with his cronies, partying with the who’s who) were all shot here.

And with that, we called it a day and followed the scenic road along the lake all the way back to Fort Ilocandia, the final stop on the Marcos trail. The hotel was originally built by the Marcoses for their daughter’s wedding reception. Done with Ilocos Norte, we were looking forward to seeing what Ilocos Sur had in store for us.

Juan Luna Shrine
We started on the 2 hour drive to Vigan really early the next day because we had a extra detour in mind. Halfway to Vigan from Laoag is the town of Badoc where you’ll find the brick house where Juan Luna was born. Abandoned by the family when they moved to Manila, it fell into ruin, and was restored by Imelda Marcos in the 70s. It holds reproductions of some of Luna’s most famous works.

Also in Badoc, is the 200-year old Shrine of La Virgen Milagrosa, where Juan Luna was baptized, and home to the miraculous wooden image of the virgin Mary – hence the name Virgen Milagrosa.

Vigan
There’s lots to see and do in Vigan and it’s especially a treat for the history buff. We parked our car and explored on foot.

We started at the Burgos Museum, the home of Fr. Jose Burgos who was executed by the Spanish together with Gomez and Zamora. Along with memorabilia of Fr. Burgos, there are paintings by Don Esteban Villanueva, and a few Ilocano artifacts. Right beside the museum is the Provincial Jail built in 1657. It is also the birthplace of Pres. Elpidio Quirino.

Cross Plaza Salcedo and you’ll find yourself in the heart of Vigan. Check out the earthquake barqoque style of the imposing St. Paul’s Cathedral, built in 1790. And if you’re interested in religious artifacts, then visit the Museo San Pablo right beside the church. Also worth a look is the Arzobispado. Completed in 1783, it is the only surviving 18th century arzobispado in the country. It also served as Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo’s headquarters in 1889.

Lunch found us at Café Leona, right at the beginning of Crisologo Street where we tried the interesting Pakbet Pizza (pizza topped with okra, eggplant and shrimp paste), and stuffed ourselves full of bagnet (Deep Fried Pork Belly) and longganiza (Cured pork sausages). It’s best to get here a little early to beat the lunch crowd. Right beside the restaurant is the Tourism Office. Stop by and ask for a map of the city. It’ll make exploring a lot easier.

After lunch, we made our way down the famous Calle Crisologo or the Vigan Heritage Village. An entire street that seems frozen in time complete with cobblestones and ancestral houses. Once the home of the city’s elite, the ground floor of the mansions have now been converted into souvenir and antique shops.

From Crisologo St, turn left into Salcedo St where you’ll find the Syquia Mansion. It might look closed, but just ring the doorbell and Rusty (the 4th-generation caretaker of the Syquias) will let you in and give you a very interesting tour.

From Crisologo St, you can choose to take a calesa ride to the other places of interest – a 3 hour tour of the city would set you back around P300. Or make your way back to the Plaza and get on a trike and ask to be taken to the following places:

Crisologo Museum - which is the ancestral home of the prominent Crisolog family. It has now been converted into a museum but the 2nd floor still looks pretty much the way the family left it.

Pagburnayan or jar factories - the Ilocano clay jar called "burnay" is used for storing suka, basi and bagoong. They are still made using pre-historic methods.

Gov. Chavit Singson’s Baluarte – the private park of the former governor, it is open to the public and free of charge. Here you can feed ostriches and camels, walk inside a butterfly garden, take pony rides, and watch the tigers being fed.

After all that exploring, we were ready for a snack, so we made our way back to Plaza Burgos and the Empanadaan. You can’t leave leave Ilocos without sampling the empanada – a deep fried, crispy shell stuffed with shredded cabbage, the famous Vigan longganiza, egg and dipped in vinegar.

The sun was setting as we were finishing our empanadas so we decided it was time to face the long drive back to Manila. A weekend was way too short to fully appreciate Ilocos. There’s a necklace of centuries old churches strung along the province that we didn’t get to see, beaches whose waters we didn’t sample, and local fare we didn’t get to taste. But we headed home happy in the knowledge that there would be even more waiting for us when we found our way back to Ilocos again.

New Horizons in the Far East

What makes a destination worth traveling to? What keeps us going back? There are as many answers to that question as there are travelers, but it seems that Samar Island, tucked into the Eastern flank of the Visayas has the answers to both those questions in spades, even if the destination has not registered on most travelers ‘must visit’ lists. Indeed, most people have never been there, which certainly adds to its allure as terra incognito. For those who have traveled there, the charms are readily apparent, and most visits simply expand the list of ‘places I have to see’ rather than a checked off ‘already seen’ box.

For those with limited time to travel, such as a weekend, probably the most time-efficient itineraries involve the western and southern coasts of the island, with entry points at Calbayog and Tacloban in northern Leyte. The western coast, from Calbayog down to Catbalogan, is one of the most stunning drives in the country, punctuated with an endless array of islands in the Libucan and Canahauan group on the horizon line, many of which are almost never visited by tourists. The drive down the highway all the way down to Tacloban is especially awe-inspiring around sunset, when the colors of the expansive sky seem to double in scale off the calm waters of Samar Sea. In between Calbayog and Catbalogan, on a pleasant little side trip inland up the Gandara River, one can find the Blanca Aurora Falls, where a tiny tributary comes tumbling out of the rain forest into a welcoming little swimming hole.

The Southern Coast of Samar is especially rewarding for a 2 day escape, as the stretch from Tacloban to Guiuan is chock full of things to see and do, and distances are very reasonable, enabling travelers to spend more time doing than time traveling. Once across the San Juanico bridge, which, at 2.2 kilometers, is one of South East Asia’s longest bridges, the first attraction is to be found at Basey, where the magnificent Sohoton Caves Natural Park are found after a 1.5 hour Apocolypse Now-style boat trip up the Golden River. Marabut town is blessed with the Marabut Marine Park, which is a collection of 15 beautifully twisted and unique rock spires that rise surreally out of the water. The area has several private and government-run resorts for people who want to stay overnight in the area, which gives visitors more time to rent kayaks or barutos (outrigger canoes) and poke around the rock formations, which have blessed countless postcards and travel brochures.

History buffs will want to stop at the town of Balangiga, which, despite its sleepy, nothing-has-changed-in-decades feel, was the site of one of the fiercest campaigns of the Philippine-American war in the early 20th Century. When local Samareños launched a surprise attack on American soldiers in September 28, 1901, the American military counterattacked in a series of bloody campaigns, and the chilling orders of an American General to “…turn Samar into a howling wilderness.” Every September there is an impressive reenactment of this slice of history, and an imposing monument to the event towers over the town square, next to the church from which the locals launched their attack.

Further on, the town of Guiuan is starting to attract attention to Samar, as its idyllic Calico-An island has been picked as a hotspot for future infrastructure development by the Philippine Department of Tourism. The area certainly deserves the attention, and it will probably have it in a matter of years, but for the time being, visitor numbers are not overwhelming, and it is quite easy for tourists to have the beach almost, if not completely to themselves. Calico-An Island stretches off of Samar’s south east coast like a tail, and the eastern side of the island is perfectly poised like a catcher’s mitt to take in the mighty Pacific’s swells, which has earned Guiuan some notoriety amongst surfers. Especially during peak surf season from August to November, pounding swells often hit Calico-An, and surfers can find a variety of breaks in the area to their liking, from sandy beach breaks to more challenging reef breaks. Most surfers head directly to ABCD Beach, where surfers are almost always bound to find some surf. For the beginner surfer, it is a great place to learn, as gear is available for rent locally, and because of the forgiving sandy bottom being a much better place to learn than jagged reef tops. There are a few places to stay in the area, with more on the way, but the most luxurious and established accommodation in Calico-An is at Surf Camp Resort (www.calicoansurfcamp.com), where exquisite design, killer real estate and a dedicated staff make any stay a good one.

There are also a few more affordable and basic places to stay, for those on a tight budget. Besides the beach on the Pacific side of the island, there are other quite notable things to see on Calico-An, such as the Yoga Camp run by Ashtanga Yogi Bela Lipat, who has located her yoga hall and other structures on top the towering cliffs which look down on the rest of the island. The short walk from the main road through the forest and up the stairs, which were carved by hand into the cliff face, would be worth the trip, but the views from the top seal the deal. Guides at the Yoga Camp can take you down to the other side of Calico-An, which faces the Letye Gulf, is remarkably placid compared to the Pacific, and a low-tide walk on this side is very tranquil and relaxing, with still waters and jagged rock spires giving photographic possibilities at every turn of the head.

Travel Notes:

How to Get There
Air routes access both Calbayog and Tacloban from Manila, and some routes also coming in from Davao and Cebu. Tacloban and Samar are linked to the rest of the archipelago by ferries such as WG&A and others.Overland, Tacloban to Guiuan can be done in one 2.5 hour journey, and Calbayog to Tacloban is about 5 hours. Plenty of vans, buses and jeeps ply the route, and it is usually fairly easy to get on and off at whim. Guiuan, thanks to a massive end-of-WW2 American military build up, has one of the largest runways in the country, but for the time being it is an airstrip without an airport, but future plans include the opening of a Guiuan route, so keep your eyes peeled.

Accommodation
Most of the places to stay in Samar are simple but comfortable, and almost always relatively cheap, usually running less than 500 pesos. There are some higher end resorts, such as Surf Camp, where rooms can cost upward to about 5500 twin share for Surf Camp. Food is also very affordable, and always fresh.

Silence in the Cordilleras

SILENCE --- it’s a hard-to-find commodity when you live in the middle of a capital city. And when you’re a heavy thinker like me, the mental cacophony combined with the constant hum of metropolitan traffic can drive anyone positively mental. During times like this, a long trip out of the city becomes a necessity rather than an option. On one such moment, I packed a bag in the middle of the night and headed off to the AUTOBUS station in España and took the midnight express to the far north.

The ride to Banaue is a long one, which is why traveling in the dead of the night is probably a good idea. Aside from the streets being devoid of traffic, you can get your hours of sleep while traveling; which is good if you can’t extend your weekend too much before your boss notices your absence. The sun would have just yawned its way into the sky when you arrive at Banaue, and the cool, crisp air is enough to make you grateful for leaving the hot, dusty metropolis. It was my first time this part of the Philippines, my northern Luzon exploits having then been limited to the more tourist-friendly destination of Baguio City where city folks rush when the summer heat begins to take its toll. By tourist-friendly, I mean only that Baguio seems to have the lion’s share of hotels, restaurants and creature comforts. Banaue, while famed the world over for being the home of the agricultural marvel known as the rice terraces, seems to have retained its bucolic charm, which in the Philippines means an obvious lack of visitor luxuries. The requisite thing to do in Banaue is obviously to take a tricycle to the viewpoint to see the terraces. The ride up is dotted with numerous viewpoints, any one of which can give you a breathtaking view of what is considered to be one of the world’s wonders. The rice terraces, built by hand and farmed by generations of Ifugao families are awe-inspiring to say the least. But while Banaue is home to the most famous of the terraces, the smaller terraces in surrounding towns are to me, even more deserving of a look-see. Shops full of souvenirs and tribal arts and crafts predictably punctuate the top of the mountain road. If you must purchase a memento, it is a good idea to buy a blanket or any other item showcasing the skill of the Cordillera weavers. Bargain wisely though, as tourism seems to be the main source of income for most locals. It was immensely satisfying to take a walk along the town’s main road, as Banaue is a picturesque town. There are quite a number of places to stay in Banaue, most of them pretty basic. Drinking seems to be a local pastime and apart from the hearty laughter of merry men and the obtrusive sound of songs being belted from the karaoke machine, there is not much to do in Banaue for those looking for activity.

From Banaue, I rode a jeepney to Bangaan, a small farming community where solitude and silence seems a way of life. The Bangaan Family Inn where I stayed for a couple of nights delivered exactly that --- family style service in a clean, homey atmosphere. I rented an authentic Ifugao hut perched on the side of the mountain. I spent hours of soul searching on a hammock strung on the rafters beneath the hut’s wooden floor. You almost forget the freezing cold water you have to take your bath with when you look out and see what seems to be your own personal view of the Bangaan terraces. Many backpackers choose to make a quick stop at Bangaan then move on to Batad. I took my sweet time and stayed for a while, reading and eating vegetable curry to my heart’s content.

The village of Batad is accessible via a 2-hour hike depending on your level of fitness. It’s quite an easy climb but you have to be reasonably fit to enjoy the hike. I set out early in the day to avoid the scorching sun and was joined by a lone foreign hiker. Drinks are sold at a few stops along the way but it is of course always best to bring your own water. By the time I reached Batad, the view of verdant rice paddies was no longer a novelty and yet, each place I arrived at in the Cordilleras wove its own enchanting spell. It is perhaps at this point in my trip when I started to yearn for a companion – if only to share the beauty of the natural environment for which I am at a loss of words to describe. I met many Europeans and Westerners in Batad and I couldn’t help but silently wonder why it is that very few Filipinos make the effort to visit these places but find ways to leave the country to marvel at the jewels of other countries. There are quite a number of quaint restaurants and places to stay in the village. The range of cuisines available are surprisingly diverse, perhaps a testament to the number of foreign tourists that find their way to Batad. Aside from the amphitheater of rice terraces that are carved around the bowl shaped valley, another 45-minute walk down the terraces from the heart of the village will bring one to the Tappia waterfalls. You must visit it to appreciate just how spectacular it is.

While it was extremely tempting to stay where I was, I eventually found my way back to Banaue and took a small bus to Bontoc, from where I was planning to end my trip with a visit to Sagada. Bontoc is another 2 and half hours from Banaue and the trip via public bus could be a little uncomfortable. I shared my seat with a few live chickens and a crying baby, both of which made me wonder if I should have joined the men folk who chose to ride on the roof of the mini-bus. But the discomfort is worth it as the views are fantastic on this part of the mountain range. Bontoc is the trading and business center of this part of the province and is perhaps the most “citified”. Near the big market, many stores sell 2nd hand clothing and goods, mostly from donations to the Salvation Army. If you are going short on cash it is advisable to get some money in Bontoc as many banks have their offices here. Just ask any of the locals and it is an easy task to find the jeepney stop where one can get a ride to Sagada.

Sagada by itself deserves a separate write up. As I discovered, it takes some work to get there and yet, those who have come find themselves finding ways to return as soon as schedules permit. A backdrop of indigenous pine trees combined with limestone outcrops, lush valleys and tasteful architecture make Sagada a refreshing sight in a tropical landscape. The cold climate and altitude, which allows for the constant fog and mist that shrouds the community, deliver an atmosphere of utmost serenity. Noise seems almost criminal here. The presence of St.Mary the Virgin church in the middle of town seems to set the tone for a solemn and sober sojourn. While a lively nightlife is obviously not to be expected here, there are many things to see and do in Sagada. A heavy breakfast of pancakes, served with yogurt and fresh honey is a great way to start the day. Perhaps the most popular tourist sight are the hanging coffins, most of which were carved by the elderly themselves before their deaths. Tourists can hike down Echo valley and enter the caves. I found it most distressing to note that anyone can pretty much do anything they like, which meant many of the coffins had been looted and desecrated, with many bones being taken home as souvenirs, gruesome as that may sound! Taking walks is the happening thing in Sagada and it can give you the chance for some exercise without you even noticing it. You can follow the mountain ridge and inhale the fresh mountain air towards Mt. Ampacao, or walk from Bang-an to Lake Danum.

It is easy get lonely during trips like this, although people like me derive a sort of perverse pleasure in momentary loneliness. It is rewarding for me to lose track of time every once in a while, to get lost in my thoughts and to take pleasure in the silence of beautiful surroundings. A trip to the Cordilleras is the perfect escape from the noise of my daily affairs. It is when the silence gets most deafening, that you can hear the whispers of your soul and recognize just how wonderful the world is.

Into the Heart of a Sleeping Beast

It hardly seems imaginable now, almost 20 years after Mount Pinatubo blew its top, what a huge event the eruption was. With its explosive exit from the ‘dormant volcano’ category slamming it into the record books as the second largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century, only behind Alaska’s Novarupta eruption in 1912. But unlike Novarupta, which lays tucked away in Arctic solitude, Pinatubo kicked its 10 cubic kilometers of rock and ash over a heavily populated area, and even with effective evacuation maneuvers, hundreds were killed, hundreds of thousands were displaced and many lives were changed forever.

Most people who lived in Manila or Pampanga during the eruption are sure to have several photos in their albums of scenes that look more like a snowy winter in Alberta than an ash covered landscape in Angeles. Ash fell as far as Vietnam, Russia and Cambodia, and the world’s average temperature even dropped around 0.5 degrees Celsius, as Pinatubo pumped a blanketing layer of aerosols and sulfur dioxide into the earth’s atmosphere. The layer of volcanic material was captured on film by an orbiting Space Shuttle mission, and stunning sunsets were viewable around the world, as trade winds took the tons of chemicals and debris to far-off continents.

Both now and before, Pinatubo has never dominated the skyline of the Zambal mountain range, maintaining a fairly modest profile belying its violent nature. The explosion lopped off almost 300 meters off its original height of 1700+ meters, and turned a mountain peak into a crater lake, which can sometimes grow in depth at a rate of a meter a year. Before one goes up the mountain, a little combing around the net for pictures of the eruption and the mountain in the first few years after the 1991 eruption can serve as a frame of reference to understand what happened there. The area is now blanketed with a layer of foliage, which can be a misleading, as the green valley hides the volcanic gray ash that lies right below. Pictures like Kevin Hamdorf’s photos from the first post-eruption ascent several years after the eruption can be real eye openers, capturing an almost impossible-to-comprehend monochromatically gray moonscape on which no colors and nothing living exists.

And yet today, the climb up Mt. Pinatubo is one of the biggest highlights for visitors to Central Luzon. While routes are occasionally found from the Zambales side of the mountain, especially around Botolan town, most tourists approach the mountain from its eastern flanks, in Tarlac Province. Aspiring climbers can either let the details be handled by one of the many tour operators offering whole-day trips up the volcano. For those inclined, the ranger station at Barangay Santa Juliana in Capas can help with all aspects of the trek, with pertinent detail, arranging for mandatory guides and collecting user fees. User fees are proportionately cheaper for larger groups than for individuals, so this is a good trip to get your friends to accompany you on. Various fees such as guide fee (P500 for guide, 1 guide per group), individual fees of P50 for conservation, as well as jeep rentals (2,500 pesos per jeep, up to 5 persons per jeep), as well as package fees for the whole shebang, can be arranged here. For more information, contact Mr. Wendell Mercado, at +63 (919) 608 4313.

Not far beyond the ranger station, the pavement soon turns into water-logged lahar (volcanic ash), as the route from here follows a river to as close to the trailhead as vehicle type and weather conditions allow. Low-clearance 2 wheel drives cannot really continue on past Santa Juliana, and high-clearance 2 wheel drives can go up a bit further, but 4 wheel drives are a necessity to get close to the trail head, as driving in lahar is a tricky prospect. Tour operators will arrange for the appropriate vehicles, as can the ranger station employees for those who inquire. After following the McDonnell River past the barren plains of the lower valley, guest reach the upper trail head, from which the push to the crater rim is about a very easy 2 to 3 hour trek. The ever-changing trail crosses the river many times, so a high-heeled hiking boot and thick socks are recommended, to minimize foot chaffing with the volcanic sand. Sun protection and ample water are a must, as the lahar reflects the heat in a serious manner, so pack wisely.

Once at the crater rim, facilities welcome sun-beaten visitors, with cottages and viewdecks for trekkers to savor the fruits of their labors and soak in the surroundings. The crater lake is a truly magnificent sight to behold, and impresses in its scale and beauty. Guests can scramble down the short way to the lake itself, where kayaks are for rent for those wishing to tool around the caldera. Rest assured, the water is safe for swimming, and is no more dangerous, chemically speaking, than any other hot spring. The trek can be done year-round, but the wet season months of late May to early September should be avoided, as well as any other periods of rain or typhoons, as navigation, both in jeep and on foot gets very treacherous, and flash floods can be a consideration.

If the natural beauty or the excitement of reaching the top of an active volcano is not your kind of thing, then the much talked about healing effects of the sulfuric water in the caldera might just be the best come-on. Sulfur has long been known to cure many dermatological problems despite the smell, which is vaguely reminiscent of rotting eggs. Enterprising businessmen have turned this tragedy into a profitable opportunity opening a nearby spa that specializes in treatments using the mineral rich volcanic mud. Massages are also available for weary hikers who have had their share of adventure for the day and are yearning for a little bit more of R and R.

Travel Notes:

How to Get There
Capas City, Tarlac, is about 2 hours up the Northern Luzon Expressway (NLEx) from Manila. Turning west towards Barangay Santa Juliana and inquiring at the ranger station at the end of the paved road is how independent travelers should begin their journey.

Accommodation
Pinatubo can be done as a very focused day trip from Manila with an early start, or accommodation can be found in Angeles or Tarlac Cities. Staying at the Pinatubo Spa Town (contact numbers +63 45 615 0454 and +63 928 341 0402) may be the most logistical-free and comprehensive package for first time guests, with package prices of 1,400 to 2,000 pesos including all fees, guides, permits, lunch and transportation needs, topping it off with a massage at a nearby spa. Proximity to the trail head (cutting an hour of the trek) is another plus, and ensures a much more relaxed weekend for visitors trying to get the ascent done in a day.

Dream Island

When I was young I dreamt of an island where swaying coconut trees tower against bright blue skies; where the surrounding water is emerald green and the white sandy beaches glimmer under the sun. For years, this vision became my definition of the “perfect” island.

Eighteen years ago, I bravely ventured into a frontier territory, the Palaui Island Protected Landscape and Seascape and discovered a paradise that has all the elements I dreamt of and much more. It turned out to be an island dotted with coralline beach, tall forest trees, seagrass meadows, mangroves, cliffs, tidal pools, springs, waterfalls, rock formations, islets and even a centuries-old Spanish lighthouse.

Being involved in the crafting of a community-based sustainable tourism project for Palaui Island, I have to travel to Cagayan almost every month. The project aims to ensure that its entire natural and cultural heritage will remain for many generations. This is a very fitting goal for an island that has remained well preserved and this is partly due to the inclusion of the municipality of Sta. Ana into the 54,000 hectare, Cagayan Special Economic Zone and Freeport. The area which is being developed and managed by the Cagayan Economic Zone Authority (CEZA) also covers three other islands of the municipality of Aparri, namely Fuga, Mabbag and Barit. CEZA recognizes the great potential for tourism development and the benefits it could bring. Palaui Island, because of its pristine condition and many attributes, has been identified as a priority site and thus in March 2006 the community-based sustainable tourism project was launched.

By land it normally takes ten hours from Manila to Tuguegarao and from there it is another 2 ½ hours to the town of Sta. Ana, the jump off point for Palaui Island. This year, Asian Spirit started having chartered flights twice a week from Manila to Macau via Tuguegarao City and flying drastically cuts down the traveling time. I had great anticipation for a trip back to the island as I fastened my seatbelt on board the airplane. The flight was brisk, which only took 45 minutes.

From the San Vicente fish port I took a boat to visit an island unlike any other. Called Palami in old Spanish documents, the island is an emerging destination for outdoor adventure sports. It is located in the municipality of Sta. Ana, along the periphery of one of the most treacherous body of water in the Philippines, the Babuyan Channel.

Nature’s Wild Creation
I have traveled to many remote locations in the country. It is almost always worth the time and effort. One important lesson I learned is that the more inaccessible a place is the more preserved it is. Palaui Island however has defied this rule. It is very accessible and yet it has well preserved terrestrial and marine ecosystems in place.

The protected area spans 7,415.48 hectares which includes primary and secondary forests, mangroves, caves, grassland, coral reefs, inter-tidal zones, seagrass meadows, geologic formations, small islets and a community of a little over 500 people. A forest covers nearly 80 percent of the land area. Its serves as a habitat for many threatened and near-threatened species of wildlife including the dwarf king fisher, rufous paradise flycatcher, serpent eagle and the tarictic hornbill. Resource inventories conducted by Conservation International and the University of the Philippines Institute of Biology show that the biodiversity of flora is very high, considering the size of the island.

The island’s seascape exudes breath taking sceneries. The submarine cliffs, shallow coral gardens, caverns, crevices and canyons provide niches for a wide variety of marine life. From the tiny nudibranch to turtles and whales, the domain beneath the surface of the water is also teeming with life. An underwater survey conducted in 2005 showed potential for recreational diving, underwater photography and even for research. Divers who conducted the survey were amazed at the variety of marine species. Some even claim to have seen species of marine sea slugs and snails that they have never seen anywhere else.

Tourism That Protects
Being a protected area, Palaui Island needs to be preserved. Hence, island dwellers need to be capacitated to use the resources wisely and to engage in livelihood that are non-extractive. The potential of Palaui for environmental education and nature tourism is very clear. The community recognizes this and they have committed themselves to be stewards of this precious island. They have organized themselves into a group called Palaui Environmental Protectors Association (PEPA). CEZA had been providing technical assistance through training and enterprise development in order to increase their capability to improve their lives.

Tourism consultant Louie Mencias says that community involvement and capacity building are essential towards making tourism and nature conservation work not just for Palaui but for other protected areas of the country.

“CEZA plans to build an ecolodge on the island that will comply with international standards. Through PEPA, the community will be a partner in this initiative,” adds Mencias.

Bantay Kalikasan is a small group of volunteers that monitors and reports to authorities possible illegal activities on and around the island. The members double up as guides who ensure that visitors follow protected area protocols, deepen their understanding of nature, ecology, culture and history through indigenous knowledge interpretation, and have meaningful experiences as they hike the trails or cruise around the island.

Lighthouse Restoration
On top of a hill 92.75 meters high, along the northern shore is the preserved centuries-old lighthouse of Palaui Island. It will soon be declared by the National Museum as an important cultural property. It was designed by Engr. Magin Pers y Per and was completed by Dec. 30, 1892. The ravaging of time and of the natural elements has taken its toll on the structure and is in need of rehabilitation. With this concern, CEZA has established a partnership with the municipality of Sta. Ana, the provincial government of Cagayan and many other national institutions to take the necessary steps to save this built heritage. The Faro de Cabo Engaño is the northern-most Spanish lighthouse in the country and is in fact featured in the book “Spanish Lighthouses of the Philippine” by Manuel Noche.

“It is part of the Filipino heritage and we need to save it so that other people and future generations will appreciate its history,” says Sec. Jose Mari B. Ponce, CEZA Administrator and CEO.

In order to promote the island, CEZA has been organizing its yearly summer Aquathlon where top tri-athletes in the country compete.

The island is being positioned as a venue for authentic learning. Visitors will be treated to a highly educational experience that will promote responsible travel. Indeed heritage & biodiversity conservation, as well as sustainable tourism are important initiatives that will be included in Palaui Island. This only highlights the need to protect not only biodiversity, but also culture and history through sustainable tourism. This approach will certainly ensure that Palaui becomes a destination that will last for many generations.

For more information on how you can experience Palaui Island, contact (63 927) 279 5807 or email at wildexpeditions@yahoo.com.

Secret Aquatic Paradise

Charming, quaint and completely bucolic --- this is how I expected Camarines Sur to be. The festive welcome, complete with scantily clad dancers in red and yellow costumes bopping to the brassy tune of a marching band seemed to support my pre-conceived notion. After all, up until recently, little was known about this precious part of Bicol region. While mountaineers mainly know the province of Pili to be one of the jump-off points for scaling the heights of Mt. Isarog, Camarines has long been overshadowed by the more urbanized city of Legaspi and the perfectly cone shaped Mayon Volcano (and active). A self-proclaimed born traveler with a love for the outdoors and all things new, my curiosity about Camarines had reached fever high, fueled by news of a world-class facility that has put Camarines Sur into the consciousness of Manila’s traveling brat pack and apparently, the rest of the world. Today, the moniker “Cam Sur” could be heard spoken in excited tones by Manila’s urban elite as the new hotspot. Bikini-clad youngsters armed with tanning oil and branded board shorts spend months of saved up allowance for an imprimatur of coolness earned from having experienced Cam Sur. Athletic types and their fans flock in drones to Pili in search of the ultimate high. What is all the fuss about? It’s the Camarines Sur Watersports Complex (CWC), a brainchild of the young and dynamic governor, L-Ray Villafuerte. Said to be the best cable ski park in the world, I arrived at Cam Sur in time to watch the 2nd Philippine Cable Wakeboard Nationals.

Before stepping foot on the 6-hectare complex, we stopped at our assigned hotel. I knew then that ‘parochial’ and ‘provincial’ would soon be forever lost as descriptors of Pili. The Avenue Plaza Hotel was shiny new, having opened just a month before our arrival. Charming and quaint yet with modern touches, I consider it a testament to the growing popularity of boutique hotels: the kind that provide all a traveler could need or want, at a price that fits the budget. While the bedsheets beckoned, it wasn’t long before we were on our way to the famed CWC.

The Provincial Capitol Complex houses the water sports facility and was like an oasis in a desert. The land area was huge, as most of it was still empty; the imaginably beautiful villas, still in various stages of construction, stood out. I arrived at the reception area excited about what I was soon to witness. The best cable wake boarders and wake skaters in the world were supposed to be here soon.

The 411 on Wakeboarding
Wakeboarding is relatively new in the Philippines. Considered an ‘extreme sport’, it is a combination of water skiing, snow boarding and surfing techniques. Instead of using skis, the rider rides a single board with stationary non-release bindings for each foot, standing sideways. Usually, the rider is towed behind a speedboat as he or she navigates various obstacles on the water, employing different tricks. At cable wakeboard parks such as the one in Cam Sur, the sport becomes more easily accessible as it eliminates the need for a boat by towing the rider with an overhead cable that is constantly on the move. The rider is simply hooked up to the cable and voila! You’re wakeboarding.

Wake skating is a variation, where the rider is not bound to the board but rides it as one would a skateboard. A much harder task, I’m told by the locals. Aside from the CWC there is only one other cable wakeboarding facility in the country, but one look at the number of riders lined up at the boardwalk (waiting their turn on the cables) told me that this is a fast-growing sport. As I walked around the main clubhouse I chanced upon an article pinned to the wall, featuring a European couple who got married at the CWC. I see wakeboarding has already become a lifestyle.

Yes, the CWC is the place to spot who’s who in society. A look at the list of wake boarders is intimidating, with prominent surnames that frequently show up in the country’s society pages. Its not surprising since the sport can be costly. The gear in a pro-shop can shock an average working Joe. A board costs at least 30,000 pesos ($ 719.00) and can easily go up to a hundred grand. A tall order considering that some riders told me that the board could break easily on a bad fall or in an unexpected landing while coursing through the various obstacles. However, beginners need not fear. CWC has equipment for rent at reasonable prices. An hour would only set a rider back 125.00 pesos ($3.00/ hr), inclusive of beginner wakeboard, skis, kneeboards, wake skates and basic instructions. I was told it can be addicting. A whole day will only cost a rider P610 -- very reasonable for the thrill of it. And think of all the hydration: after 8 hours in the water, you’ll look positively prune-like!

What truly surprised me was the range of accommodations available. Those who do not want to take the 15-minute ride from our hotel to the complex could choose to stay in any of the many options inside the complex itself. Budget travelers could spend as little as 500 pesos ($12.00) for a tent at the campsite, or take one of the bungalows at the eco-village for as low as P1,600 ($38.00). It accommodates 4 people. Those who prefer luxury can stay at the newly constructed Villa del Ray Villas. Here, enjoy your own private garden retreat, personal outdoor hot tub, access to the spa facility, swimming pool and upscale dining.

If the prices for a trip to Cam Sur are reasonable by Filipino standards, it may seem ridiculously cheap by expat standards. It was easy to see why I saw foreigners everywhere I looked. But it’s not only the prices that make the CWC a choice destination. Wakeboarding magazine, an international publication, has already called the CWC the best cable skiing park in the world!

The CWC boasts a 6-point cable ski system, which makes all the difference -- say pro-riders. The manmade beach surrounding the man-made lake softens riders’ waves, being a calmer water surface -- which translates to a better riding surface for the participants. I will not even attempt to understand what that means but the presence of team Billabong, a popular water sports clothing brand which even I am familiar with, says it all for me. Brian Grubb, Shawn Watson, Chad Sharpe, Danny Harf and Eric Ruck, pro riders of the sport, were all at the CWC as guests of Governor Villafuerte. The CWC has already won the bid as the location of the 2008 Wake Park World Championships to be held July 2 to 6, 2008. This is predicted to be one of the biggest international events to-date where the best riders from all over the world will compete for world titles.

I would have wanted to, as we were offered a chance to try wakeboarding for free, but the weather was not cooperating and well, I didn’t think my skin needed the intense hydration treatment that day. However, the weather did not stop the competitors from giving it their best shot. By the time the competition was over, everyone was on a high and we shared drinks and a sumptuous buffet with the rest of the wakeboarding community.

If I had any regrets, it would be that we never had a chance to go around Cam Sur outside of the CWC. Lamentable since my research tells me that there is so much more to explore and so much more to discover about Cam Sur. The six white beach islands of the Caramoan peninsula, just a drive away, have recently been declared by the president as new tourist zones. Aside from the sun, sand and surf, one can go caving, bird watching, rock climbing, diving, hiking and myriad other outdoor pursuits that any adventure enthusiast would love! The Cam Sur water sports complex may be what brought Cam Sur into the consciousness of local and foreign travelers, but it is what’s waiting to be discovered that will bring visitors back and again to this island paradise. On my bus ride back to Manila, I was already looking forward to my next escape to larger-than-life Cam Sur!

Road Trip to Cam Sur from Manila:
The Province of Camarines Sur is located in the central part of the Bicol Region, south of Metro Manila -- it is an 8-hour drive away. Ordinary and air-conditioned buses travel the Manila-Camarines Sur Route daily with an approximate travel time of 9 hours.

Once your bus arrives at CBD (Central Business District) Terminal in Naga City you can hail a tricycle to take you to the Provincial Capitol Complex. When you get to the Capitol Complex, follow the signs (or ask for directions) to the Camarines Sur Watersports Complex (CWC). Travel time is around 20 minutes.

If your entry point to Camarines Sur is Legaspi City, you need to rent a service vehicle. Vans are available and should be priced at around 2,500 – 3,000 pesos ($50-$60) for the 75 minute ride to the town of Pili. Shuttles are also available from the airport but should be booked ahead of time.

A Hilltop Hideaway

A Boracay trip is not complete without a true body pampering experience, a massage to cap off the fun-in-the-sun activities that usually pack every traveler’s days. After all, we seek an island escape to pursue not just new and exciting adventures but also to find a retreat from the stress of city living.

I have heard of a wonderfully unique spa that has just opened in a secluded spot on the island. It’s just what I’m looking for – a fresh hideaway offering nothing but relaxation. Leaving the crowds, loud noise and frenzied pace of White Beach, I search for a quiet sanctuary to soothe a tired body, a weary soul.

I hop on a tricycle and after a few minute’s ride, I find myself at the steps of Tirta Spa. At the massive gate framed by stone carvings and statues that act as guards to the entrance, my search for a serene getaway ends and my journey to rejuvenation begins.

A Secret Sanctuary No More
As I enter the gate, a gong suddenly sounds off, breaking the calm atmosphere with a deep pleasant ring. Later on I find out that the gong does more than announce the arrival of a new guest, it acts to clear the air of negative energies that visitors may unavoidably bring in to the spa’s premises.

The steps are lined with imported stone statues bearing Balinese parasols. They lead to an attractive high-ceiling lobby that shows a spectacular hilltop view of Boracay’s clear blue waters and nearby islands and coves.

Amidst a growing crop of massive structures done in urban minimalist and ultra-modern styles, Tirta Spa’s design, drawn from various Asian cultures and uses stone and wood as main elements, is a much welcome addition to this tropical island setting. Its rustic charm is a breath of fresh air. The mountain breeze, lush greenery and the striking use of water fountains lend to a more relaxed vibe. Truly, Tirta is unlike any other place in Boracay.

Pursuing a Passion
Spa Director and owner, En Calvert, shares that it took her years of intensive research and careful planning before she was able to realize her dream.

For as long as she can remember, En has always wanted to put up her own spa. Her goal is to create a place of pure relaxation. Pursuing her passion, she has spent years studying spa management, anatomy, physiology, massage techniques and aromatherapy. Combining this with her learnings from her many travels to centers for holistic treatments and spas around the world, En has boldly set out to create her own sacred sanctuary in the island paradise, Boracay.

Today, she makes it a point to see to guests’ needs personally. An internationally licensed aromatherapist, En mixes her own essential oils and customizes treatments per client. Worthy to note is the spa’s use of fine, organic materials that are freshly mixed right before each body treatment.

From the Hindu word meaning “Holy Water”, Tirta promises to be a true retreat for the mind, body and soul and, like the holy water it was named after, this spa aims to cleanse visitors of the negative energies they may have acquired from their stressful lives.

Path to Pure Relaxation
Among the many treatments that Tirta offers, En has recommended that I try the Black Lulur scrub coupled with Tirta’s signature massage.

My therapist, Tess, and I walk down a pathway leading to the Royal Suite Villas. Here, Tirta’s careful attention to detail continues to impress. Inside each villa, guests are met with mosaic bathtubs framed by wooden posts and accented with capiz chandeliers. Open showers, intricately carved wooden furniture and a beautifully designed koi carp pond can also be seen.

After changing into Tirta’s signature purple sarong, I head to the corner lounge marked by bright patterns and lined with cozy pillows. Here the footbath begins and the slow purposeful strokes signal the start of what En calls a spiritually grounding experience.

The quick and delightful footbath sets the tone for the two-hour ultra pampering session that’s about to take place.

After the foot massage comes the 50-minute body scrub. Acting to purify air and erase negative energy, tiny gongs are struck and the Black Lulur scrub commences.

The pleasant and subtle earthy scent of Black Lulur is truly soothing. Add to it the massage techniques of a skilled therapist and you get almost an hour of deeply relaxing scrub.

The beads are then rinsed off at the Vichy Shower. Here, just lie back on the cushioned mat and let the five overhead showers gently spray warm water on you.

With skin feeling soft and smooth after the scrub, I ready myself for the hour-long Tirta signature massage. Tess uses a concoction of lemongrass oil for this treatment. Should guests request for a certain scent, En readily mixes a personalized batch. For today, I’m content with the calming effects of lemongrass.

The signature massage is made up of mostly soft to medium strokes. The idea behind this lies in Tirta’s goal of providing an experience that soothes and a massage that lulls the guest to sleep. According to En, the soft touch of hand is known to send guests to deeper relaxation and higher levels of tranquility, as opposed to hard pressure massages that serve to stimulate muscles rather than calm them. If you’re looking for heavy pressure, inform your therapist beforehand so you can opt for a different massage treatment.

For me, however, the slow and soft hand movements work just fine and the next hour becomes pure bliss. As the sound of the tiny gongs reverberates through the room, I awake fully refreshed and amazingly relaxed.

As the treatment ends and the ginger tea is served, I stay a while longer to enjoy the pleasant surroundings within the villa. A tiny bird chirps away as it is carefully perched on a wooden beam near the corner shower. The midday sun is slowly making its presence felt through the thatched roof. Indeed, I notice that nature blends perfectly well in this man-made haven.

Stepping out into the bright garden, I find my way back to the lobby. Though the noontime heat is beginning to reach its peak, I realize it doesn’t bother me as much. My mission for the day is accomplished. My search has definitely ended… and En’s goal clearly realized as I walk away feeling relaxed, my spirit absolutely renewed.

Passing the water fountains and streams on my way out, I am reminded of Tirta’s inspiration from India’s Holy Water. Walking out I think, En couldn\'t have chosen a better name. The Tirta Spa experience surely washes away the stress guests feel and replaces it with a positive energy that’s truly uplifting. Tirta is sure to cleanse you of the day’s worries, readying you for new island adventures that lie beyond its gates.

12 Best Spas of the Philippines

Although unknown to many, the Philippines provides a variety of backdrops – from beaches, to mountains, and even urban centers -- for a spa experience to suit every taste. In these sensuous and luxurious surroundings, one can find retreat from the daily grind and be feted by the best and popular therapies from the East and West. Here’s a discerning guide to the country’s crème de la crème spas.

Amezcua Wellness Centre (A Different Level of Wellness)

Tucked along the stretch of Katipunan Avenue is the first “medical spa” in the Philippines. The Amezcua Wellness Centre is a state-of-the-art wellness facility that does not only dedicate itself to give you the pampering you deserve but also to provide you with utmost well-being.

The wellness centre offers Needle-less Acupuncture with a combination of herbs and supplements for those looking for pain management. The Yin and Yang Hydro-zones use modern Jacuzzi steam and sauna facilities for detoxification. An added bonus is the spa’s rain showers with high-powered side jets for that unique hydro-massage experience.

Amezcua uses only non-comedogenic products made up of all-natural botanicals with no perfumes, dyes, alcohol or any other elements. For spa treatments, they use the all-natural Pevonia products which contain no chemicals, ensuring the purity of the product.

With the combination of state-of the art equipment and techniques from the East and West, Amezcua treats you to a harmonious relaxing experience.

122 Katipunan Avenue, White Plains, Quezon City
Tel. No.: (02) 913-1353
Website: www.amezcuawellness.com

Badian Island Resort and Spa (Cebu’s Best Kept Secret)

Dubbed as Cebu’s best kept secret, The Badian Island Resort and Spa is the ultimate refuge for the body and mind. A five-star romantic haven positioned in the sunset side of Cebu City, Badian Island Resort and Spa invites guests to step away from life’s everyday stress for utmost pampering, relaxation and rejuvenation.

The 8-hectare private hideaway boasts of large and highly comfortable suites facing the picturesque Badian Bay. The resort’s spa village offers therapeutic treatments in their open-air pavilions and new wellness rituals using fresh seaweed in heated seawater done at the open-air Badehaus. Their Thalasso facilities feature healing properties from seawater wading pools and cascading waterfalls. Lounge in huge seashells and bubble beds where wellness seekers can find the ultimate relaxation and enjoyment with a picture-perfect view of the island. The sauna next door is the perfect ending to this extraordinary experience.

Badian Island Resort and Spa is a destination in itself, where every guest is assured of a customized spa and fitness experience to revive their spirit.

Badian Island, Badian, Cebu
Tel. No.: (032) 475 1103
475 1106
Website: www.badianhotel.com

Chi, The Spa at Mactan Island and EDSA Shangri-la (The Ultimate Wellness Indulgence)

The Chi Spa at Shangri-la’s Mactan Island Resort and EDSA Shangri-La embraces a holistic approach to physical and spiritual well-being with an extensive treatment menu that was developed in collaboration with experts in traditional Chinese medicine and Himalayan healing philosophies. The spa features some of the largest private spa villas in Asia, complete with bathing and herbal steam facilities which provide guests with the luxury of personal space and timelessness.

For starters, try the Tropic Serenity Ritual which is a combination of four exotic treatments specially developed for Chi – the Barako Coffee Bean Scrub that naturally exfoliates, the Linen and Leaf Wrap that gently re-hydrates, and the Chi Balance Massage and Tropical Rejuvenating facial that completes your sense of well-being.
The Yin Yang Couples Massage is created for couples to harmonize and pleasantly balance the flow of their relationship chi. The couple will experience the massage in the same room with two therapists coordinating light rhythmical strokes.

Discover your own private Shangri-la at Chi Spa, and luxuriate in Chi’s signature treatments. The kingdom that was once lost, you can find. Now, you can surrender yourself to the spell that Chi weaves.

Punta Engaño Road, Lapu-Lapu City
Tel. No: (032) 231 0288
Website: www.shangri-la.com/spa

1 Garden Way, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City
Tel. No.: (632) 633 8888
Web Site: www.shangri-la.com/spa

Mandala Spa and Villas Boracay (Island Wellness Sanctuary)

Mandala Spa is a great choice for discerning spa enthusiasts visiting Boracay, one of the best beaches in the world. It is renowned for its award-winning spa treatments, elegant facilities, healthy cuisine and legendary service.

Enjoy their signature treatments and rejuvenation programs including the Shodhana Karma Ayurvedic detoxifying treatment-- inspired by the ancient Ayurvedic system of well-being. The Princess Treatment or the Boracay Bliss is the ritual where you can experience the pleasure of a scrub or wrap of your choice, allowing aromatic oils to penetrate your skin. The resort also features the Prana Restaurant which serves vegetarian spa cuisine.

Great care has been taken to provide a profound experience -- where the senses are drawn inward through the right blend of oils, freshly prepared natural ingredients, hand-picked flowers, the unmistakable Mandala healing touch and legendary service with a soul. These are the fine details that allow each moment to gently unfold and deliver one to wellness.

Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan 5608
Tel. No.: (036) 288 5858
Website: www.mandalaspa.com

North Haven Spa Baguio City (Mountain High)

The chilly Cordillera air in Baguio City is not the only attraction the destination has to offer these days. The North Haven Spa in the City of Pines is, without a doubt, the perfect reason to escape from the hurly burly grind of the city.

Their Strawberry Organic Scrub, Cordillera Rice Scrub and Benguet Coffee Scrub are among the varied highlights for a totally skin tingling experience. One must definitely experience their invigorating local massages such as the Dagdagis, a local foot rub that is definitely a treat which your aching feet deserve from all that tramping around the city. There’s also the indigenous head massage of the Mountain Province, the Gisgisto and the body massage, Taltaladtad, which are just a few of the special indigenous techniques passed down from their elders. With the North Haven Spa Signature Massage, you can smoothen out the rough edges and emerge feeling revitalized and ready to take on whatever may come your way.

A visit at the North Haven Spa is an intimate, personalized spa experience that reflects the transcendent beauty of the Cordillera’s natural mountain environment.

21 Avelino St.
Ferguson Road, Baguio City
Tel. No: (074) 300-5022

The Spa at the Mandarin Oriental Manila (Opulent Spa Splendor)

The Spa is a Thai-themed luxury haven located at the top floor of the Mandarin Oriental in Makati. It offers a sensory experience that touches the mind, body and spirit, merging ancient and contemporary techniques and philosophies around the world.

The collection of exclusive rituals includes specialized facials, body massages, treatments, wraps and scrubs, and spa packages with different time durations. A signature treatment at The Spa is the Time Rituals, a personalized journey consisting of treatments recommended to the individual.

In its quest to cater to the varied wellness needs of its guests and visitors, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel has launched their Urban Escape Package which includes an overnight stay inclusive of an American buffet breakfast, complimentary local calls and a complimentary treatment at The Spa. The hotel has also introduced therapeutic Yoga classes with an authentic yoga instructor who hails from India.

Makati Avenue, Makati City 1226
Tel. No.: (02) 750 8888 ext. 1901/ 1902
750 0968
Website: www.mandarinoriental.com

Sanctuario Spa (Filipino Wellness Sanctuary)

Sanctuario Spa is one of the Philippines’ premier spas known as a holistic center promoting oriental healing traditions that cater to the body, mind and soul. Located in Bohemian Malate, the spa’s main branch is housed in a majestic 1940’s ancestral mansion converted into a sprawling spa complex.

Sanctuario Spa uses indigenous Filipino as well as Oriental treatments, therapies and concoctions handed down through generations. For their massage therapies, they have the Full Body Swedish Aromatherapy with oil choices concocted for anti-stress, body tissue firming, lymphatic drainage, anti-cellulite, muscle aches and pain and sensuality. For Filipino Traditional Healing, they have their Signature treatment, the Hilot Remedial Therapy, a form of deep-tissue massage using virgin coconut oil. The Tsokolate Ahhh! is a two-hour bliss of a choco-soap Wash, extra virgin coconut oil prep, native dark chocolate scrub and a Carabao Milk Bath finished off with a full-body massage with virgin coconut oil.

These and other restorative regimen awaits you at Sanctuario Spa, Salon and Organic Café.

1829 Jorge Bocobo St.
Malate, Manila
Tel. No: (02) 450 1127

Sonya’s Garden (Master the Art of Doing Nothing)

The colorful charm surrounding Sonya’s Garden hidden in the cool hills of Tagaytay will captivate you as you await your massage under this beautiful Bed and Breakfast’s serene atmosphere.

For the first timers in this blissful sanctuary, Sonya’s Signature Massage is a must-try. Get to experience this full-body massage filled with intense relaxing strokes infused with scented oils that will fully unite you with your harmonious environment. Detoxify under the sweet smelling fragrance of roses with their Aromatherapy Steam Bath. Why not indulge yourself in their Bloom-inspired packages? The Lilac, Magnolia and Marigold Packages will truly exhilarate your senses.

Just a short drive away from the bustling chaos of the city, don’t miss the chance to be pampered with scented oils and sensual strokes in this flower-filled haven.

Barangay Buck Estate, Alfonso, Cavite
Mobile Nos.: (0917) 532-9097
(0917) 533-5140
Website: www.sonyasgarden.com

The Farm at San Benito (Perfect Relaxation Experience)

Tucked away in the foothills of Mount Malarayat, two hours away from Manila, is The Farm at San Benito, a former coconut and coffee plantation which is steadily gaining popularity as an alternative healing center and one of the world’s few truly medical spas. It combines a spa resort and a medical facility to target those seeking relaxation and relief.

Founded with the aim of helping people maintain or regain their good health, The Farm specializes in alternative, non-western therapies and the treatment of degenerative, acute and chronic diseases. Visitors can opt for an Overnight Wellness Program which includes a one-hour medical consultation, or a Medical Vacation which aims to jumpstart their health through a cocktail of detoxification, exercise, skin cleansing and bowel cleansing for five days. Those with more serious health conditions like asthma, diabetes or psoriasis are advised to take a three-week stay to receive the benefits of a tailored healing program.

To pamper the body, there’s a wide choice of treatments at the Salus Per Aqua Spa including reflexology, various types of massages plus foot scrubs and facials and traditional Asian body scrubs. Tibetan exercise, yoga, meditation, and breathing and walking exercises are also available at the resort.

No. 119 Barangay Tipakan, Lipa City, Batangas
Tel. No.: (02) 696 3795
Website: www.thefarm.com.ph

The Spa (Serenity and Well Being)

With well-trained certified massage therapists and licensed aestheticians, The Spa is certainly set apart from the usual. You can indulge your senses in truly relaxing and rejuvenating treatments that offer specific and effective approaches to suit your needs by combining the power of aromatherapy, massage techniques and the latest spa technology.

One can try their list of Body Massage therapies including Swedish, Shiatsu, Deep Tissue, Aromatherapy and Twin Massages. They also offer a Volcanic Rock Massage which features hot basalt stones for the ultimate treatment of aching muscles. There is also the Herbal Massage using steamed herbal pouches pressed along the meridians of the body to provide comfort and relief and to encourage absorption of energy through herbs.

Acropolis Green Subdivision,
E. Rodriguez Avenue, Libis, Quezon City
Tel. No.: (02) 634 2848
(02) 634 2709
Website: www.thespa.com.ph

Tirta Spa (Royal Spa Grandeur)

Known as the first “premier spa” in Boracay, Tirta boasts of opulent Balinese and Asian-inspired architecture and elements. Its signature hue is the color purple which Ms. En Calvert, the spa director of Tirta, revealed has a relaxing effect on the mind and body. It is also the color of royalty -- a likeness to how the staff treats you as soon as you enter its magnificent gates.

What makes Tirta Spa more exciting is its passion to create innovative treatments to satisfy every guest. The Before and After Sun Treatment is a highly-recommended spa package for those who love to soak under the sun. Before hitting the beach, try the Boracay Sunrise which includes facial and body exfoliation topped with a body massage for that even glow. The Boracay Sunset is ideal after a day at the beach. Cool pink clay (a botanical skin care product from Australia) is applied all over your body to revitalize your skin and help it maintain its youthful appearance. Tirta Spa also has a customized package to make your wedding moments more memorable. The Pulot Gata (Honeymoon Ritual) can be a pre- or post-wedding beauty ritual. Immerse yourself into this 3.5-hour session of pampering and relaxation fit for royalty.

Tirta Spa also uses Biodroga products manufactured exclusively in Baden, Germany. Made only from natural ingredients, these spa creations provide special care for your skin needs, leaving you more relaxed and radiant than before.

Sitio Malabunot, Manoc-Manoc,
Boracay Island, Malay, Aklan
Tel. No.: (036) 260-2488
Website: www.tirtaspa.com

Ylang-Ylang Spa at the Pearl Farm Beach Resort (Fragrant Pearl Discovery)

The Ylang-Ylang Spa at The Pearl Farm Resort in Samal Island of Davao provides a perfect refuge for travelers seeking sun, sea and sand. The spa is located outdoors, surrounded by trees and thick foliage for more privacy. The ambiance of the place is part of the total spa experience.

Ylang-Ylang Spa relies mainly on ancient recipes from oriental and Philippine folk traditions. Try their signature treatments that uses focused pressure and a traditional local mix of oils to release muscle tension. With certified massage therapists and licensed aestheticians, Ylang-Ylang Spa at the Pearl Farm Beach Resort boasts of a truly relaxing and rejuvenating experience which offers specific and effective approaches to suit one’s needs by combining the power of aromatherapy, massage techniques and the latest spa services.

The Ylang-Ylang Spa experience envelopes your every sense. Everything is an oasis of tranquility and world-class pampering that is unique. As it has been told and retold, one comes to Ylang-Ylang Spa to do nothing but to be one with nature.

Kaputian Island, Garden City of Samal,
Tel. No.: (6382) 221 9970 to 73 Fax No.: (6382) 221 9977
Website: www.pearlfarmresort.com or www.fuegohotels.com

Tubbataha Expedition

I was already hyperventilating as our aircraft approached the northern coast of Palawan.

Outside my window I could see fluffy white clouds being mirrored back by glassy blue seas. Coral reefs and islands were outlined in necklaces of liquid emerald and I prayed that the weather would hold.

I was, after all, on my way to the city of Puerto Princesa, the jump off point for diving-dedicated ships, called “Live-aboards”, bound for what is acknowledged as the best dive destination in the Philippines, the Tubbataha Reefs.

Arriving at the port, I could hardly contain my glee when I spotted OUR live-aboard, the Stella Maris Explorer anchored smartly just off the pier. The 120-foot long ship stood out against a Hollywood-made-to-order background of mountains, deep blue skies and a puffy cumulus cloud. For the next 5 days, this vessel would be our floating hotel, with 10 climate controlled cabins, en-suite bathrooms, an air conditioned and karaoke equipped galley (ships speak for dining area), a jacuzzi and the latest in diving equipment.

I, however, chose one of the teak armchairs on the shaded open deck and watched the comings and goings of a tropical port. As the sun started to set, kids on small bancas paddled around as colorful fishing boats set sail for a night of work.

Soon, it was our turn to leave and as the lights from the shore faded into the darkness, the apparent wind brought in the smell of the fresh salty breeze as dinner was served. I went to bed with the gentle humming of the engine lulling me to sleep.

The lines rattling against the hull acted as my alarm clock the next morning. I clambered onto the deck and with a hot drink in hand, I inhaled all the fresh sea air as I gazed at the view before me. The glassy seas reflected the pink sky of the dawn. Off our bow were a teeny islet and a picturesque light house. Just behind it, the rusty remains of a wreck jutted out. One of the chase boats zipped around the bow with a line to tie up to one of the park’s designated buoys.

Half an hour later, after our dive master Edwin had given us a detailed pre-dive briefing, the Delsan Wreck turned out to be the entry point to our first dive at Tubbataha. From the ship, we boarded chase boats where our equipment were all set up.

Back-rolling into the gin clear water, I hovered just above an expanse of pristine hard coral. After giving my gauges and camera equipment a final check, my companions and I finned off the reef’s edge and entered a wonderland of gorgeous sea fans, technicolor dendronephtya corals and refrigerator sized basket sponges. In the blue, we spied numerous barracuda, a pair of 2 -meter long tunas and the majestic Napoleon Wrasse.

I found a cut on the slope filled with lots of red sea whips and more soft coral. A startled white tip, snooze interrupted, quickly moved out of my way. Much too quickly, Edwin signaled it was time to go to the reef top to gas-off. Scowling, I checked my watch, and I grinned sheepishly when I discovered that we had been in the water close to an hour.

A constant “thunk-thunk” alerted me that our dive guide had seen something. With my buddy Danny Ocampo, we finned quickly towards the interior. Like a whirlpool of molten silver, an immense school of jacks twirled before us until one of the other divers chased after it and scattered the school.

No one complained when someone suggested a repeat of the dive which gave us a chance for numerous encounters with sea turtles. Our cameras were kept busy as we watched our beautiful shelled companions surface for a breath of air before diving back down to the reef.

It was the last dive of the day that captured my heart. In the late afternoon we motored to the opposite side of the reef corner we had been visiting. The South Wall, covered in giant sea fans and endless pastel corals greeted us after we tumbled in. Semi circle angelfish and an eagle ray were our companions for part of our dive. I made a mental note to request for a morning dive at that same spot for next year’s trip.

The ship moved while we were sleeping and the following morning found us buoyed near Black Rock at the northern end of the South atoll. It is famous for consistent manta sightings and sure enough, not too long into our first early morning dip, a manta with a twisted tail met us head on along the wall. It banked as it approached and with graceful strokes of its powerful wings, moved past the spellbound divers.

On the second dive along the same wall, I hooked myself on a current swept cut where fishes congregated. In the blue, I watched a small squadron of 6 juvenile grey reef sharks mosey their way against the moving water. A group of oversized chevron barracuda with a giant trevally soon followed.

Later that afternoon we visited Amos Rock. I have since decided to call it Amorous Rock on account of the numerous pairs of big eyed jacks that were busy with their mating rituals. Found in two’s, one would be silver, while the other would be jet black.

As I was doing my safety stop, I saw an immense school of blue-finned trevallies go marauding along the reef. From my high perch, I watched napoleon wrasses languidly move out of the way along with several startled turtles. I also enjoyed the sight of multiple schools of fusiliers, both rainbow and yellow backed, busily gulping down their afternoon meal of plankton.

The next morning, we used the Malayan Wreck as our entry point to a breathtaking slope filled with sea fans and outcrops of soft corals. By now, no one minded the ubiquitous sharks. Instead, everyone hurried towards a cleaning station where bumphead parrotfish were assembled for their early morning grooming session. Danny did a quick fish census and later informed me that there were approximately 200 of them present that morning.

We stayed with them, watching the meter long fishes, as long as our air allowed. I was only able to take one shot of the group since we spotted them towards the end of the dive. However, I don’t think anyone in our party would ever forget our encounter with these jade green beauties.

At 10:30, the sun was high in the sky and I took the opportunity to dive the Malayan wreck itself. Lying in fairly shallow water, the steel remains are home to drummers, batfish as well as oblique and oriental sweetlips. A huge engine block can be seen dwarfing divers that swim alongside.

Shark Airport was where we spent our last 2 dives in the Marine park. A sandy slope on top of the wall served as a runway of sorts where white tip sharks lie like parked jets until the presence of divers spook them into taking off.

At a coral outcrop at the drop off, we came upon a giant grouper. Obviously territorial, we encountered it again in the same spot during our second dive.

Over our sunset drinks of Pina Coladas, I remarked to another UW photographer and fellow journalist that I don’t remember Tubbataha being as beautiful as we had just experienced and that it was most likely because of the efforts of a dedicated bunch of people at the Tubbataha Management Office in Puerto Princesa and the rangers stationed on the island itself.

Travel Notes:

Measuring 99,600 hectares in size, the Tubbataha Reef National Marine Park is made up of 2 atolls rising in the middle of the Sulu Sea. A recent Study just finished by Conservation International has just confirmed what Scientists long theorized--that it is the nursery for fish and coral larvae that populates the Sulu-Sulawesi Triangle—an area that not only covers the most important and productive fishing grounds of the Philippines but extends as far south as Malaysia and Indonesia.

So important is this submerged structure in the balance of the underwater ecosystem that UNESCO declared it a world heritage site in 1993. In 1998, Former Philippine President Fidel Ramos, a keen diver himself, created Task Force Tubbataha and a station equipped with radar and manned by zealous rangers was established and now guards the park 24/7.

Several factors are responsible for the almost virgin conditions of this underwater jewel. The convergence of currents constantly brings in a barrage of the nutrients and clean water a healthy reef and its inhabitants demand. Being the largest and almost lone structure in the middle of a vast expanse of ocean guarantees a healthy influx of pelagic visitors looking for a meal and other services an underwater community provides.

Access is only through Live-aboard Dive Vessels which can range from wood-hulled boats with fan cooled cabins and communal toilets to steel hulled cruisers that are fully air conditioned with rooms, ensuite toilets, media centers and Jacuzzis. Prices range from $800 to $1500 for a 6-day trip. Local residents and expats usually get a large discount.

Access to the park is determined by the weather and sea conditions allow a small window-from late March to early June- for divers to visit. The strong winds and rough swells during the rest of the year deter both authorized and un-authorized incursions into the park and permits the reef to settle back into its natural state of regeneration.

Expedition Fleet runs the most number of ships for the Tubbataha season.

Expedition Fleet
www.expeditionfleet.com
(63-2) 892 3477
info@expeditionfleet.com

How to get there:

Domestic carriers have regular flights from Manila to the city of Puerto Princesa.

Air Philippines
Reservation Hotline: (63 2) 855 9000
www.airphils.com

Cebu Pacific
Reservation Hotline: (63 2) 702 0888
www.cebupacificair.com
Philippine Airlines
Reservation Hotline: (63 2) 855 8888
www.philippineairlines.com

Best Time to dive: The park is only accessible from mid March to Mid June.

Diving Into the Divine

If you truly want to escape the hustle and bustle of city life, strip off your work clothes and step into some tight suits. I’m not talking about hitting the gym and doing rounds of cosmic cycling and dance retro. I’m talking about taking the deep plunge, not metaphorically, but literally - diving.

The paradox: diving is both an adrenaline rush and a calming haven. The adrenaline rush starts building as you feel the powerful engine of your boat rev up, the wind hitting your face, and the smell of the ocean surround you. When you look up, nothing but tranquil blue skies. It’s an all-natural high. And once you reach the dive site, it feels like your heart is pounding a million beats per minute. Anticipation and excitement build as you go through the motions of the pre-dive service check. Because you know that you are about to enter another dimension and that you are on the verge of leaving the world behind.

As you take the plunge, you are immediately enveloped in deep silence with only your breathing to remind you and your dive buddy that you haven’t really left earth. Your breathing goes back to normal and your eyes adjust to the visibility level. You move slowly, carefully because there is so much to take in. Imagine, ocean theme parks but 100 times better. And the words weird, wonderful, strange, mesmerizing, out-of-this-world, and sublime make perfect sense in one sentence.

Now you might ask yourself, “Where do I go?”

The Philippines is well known for its numerous dive sites. For starters, you can head to Anilao, which is about 2 ½ to 3 hours drive. This is one of the best diving areas in Luzon not only because of the existence of infrastructure service divers but because the local community has made it its mission to protect the environment of their reefs. Because of this, you can find some of the most intricate and complex marine eco-systems in this region. Some of the dive sites you ought to try here are: the Cathedral which is called such because of two large mounds that look like a roofless underwater amphitheater with a cross in the middle planted by former President Fidel Ramos in 1993; the Sombrero Island which literally looks like a hat underwater; Bajura, where diving consists of slopes, small drop-offs, overhangs, and swimthroughs and where shoals of triggerfish, jacks, and surgeons swim by on a regular basis; and, Sepok which is a lovely, relatively easy dive. This site has nice coral gardens and a vertical wall with a variety of marine life and the shallow part is teeming with a profusion of small reef fish.

For those who can’t live without the nightlife and lazy days basking under the warm sun with fine soft sand beneath you, head to Puerto Galera in Mindoro, which is just a few hours from metropolis. There are 45 dive sites in this area alone. One of the most famous sites is The Kilemar Drift where you can experience “flying” with the fast current at low tide and at the time of a new moon. The Monkey Beach, Dugong Wall, and West Escarcio are one continuous and colorful coral garden. This is home to a great variety of animal species. Homes of larger fish such as snappers and groupers are the Laguna Wreck, Monkey Wreck, Dugong Wreck, and Japanese Wreck. These wrecks vary in size from 20 to 40 meters and depths of 16 to 45 meters.

If you’re really into wreck diving, I suggest you go to Coron, also in Palawan. The wrecks are there as a result of an air attack by fighters and bombers from a distant US Navy aircraft carrier back in 1944. There was a fleet of 24 Japanese supply ships at anchor around Coron. Amazingly, most of the wrecks are structurally intact and swim throughs are possible. Some wrecks have huge blast holes allowing masses of natural light to penetrate deep into the wrecks. Interesting to point out too is that all the large wrecks (up to 160 meters in length) are either upright or on their sides, but none are upside down! The outside of the wrecks have become some of the finest artificial reefs to be found and are laden with both hard and soft corals and an abundance of fish life.

Moving farther south is Tubbataha on the southern part of Palawan. This area is so remote that many large fishes come into the area to feed. Its vibrant reefs serve as breeding grounds, nurseries, and bedrooms to hundreds of fish species. These reefs are considered as one of the Philippines National Marine Park and were named by UNESCO as one of the World Heritage sites in 1993. It is a two-small tropical extensive atoll-like reefs with inner lagoons separated by a channel and home to some 300 species of corals and over 350 species of fish. The topography includes crevices, overhangs, cavelets, gradual slopes and stony corals.

And there’s still a long list of dive places in the Philippines what with its 7,107 islands. Now the real question is: “Which place do I go to first?”

The Last Frontier

What happens to a hardened city girl when you take away her creature comforts and replace them with an abundance of creatures, all keen on becoming her new BFF’s or Best Friends Forever? She unbends a little – and orders another mango shake with a splash of Rum.

Whatever I was expecting when I boarded the plane at Manila’s domestic terminal, it was not an attitude readjustment. I was exhausted – a week spent battling the flu, negotiating wedding plans for a wedding to be held some 12,000 kms away and finalizing content for a magazine I was editing before hitting the airport at 7am on a Saturday can take its toll on even the most hardened, multi-tasking journalist.

But landing at Busuanga was probably as close to a revelation as this city girl is ever going to get. I saw green everywhere. I saw thunderclouds stacking up over our heads. I saw a sea of smiling, happy faces eager to welcome us and to share their beautiful islands with us. I saw that I was going to experience an adventure unlike any I’ve experienced before. And that was before I had even glimpsed the sea.

Our trip from the airport to the pier, where we’d take a boat ride to our resort, was fast, furious and for me, my first time in a jeepney. We hurried past rolling green hills, grazing cattle and friendly villagers. An air of excitement and anticipation hung in the air, as my fellow travel companions and I tried to take as many snapshots as we could of our new surroundings, while driving at breakneck speed.

After a similarly exciting boat ride, the first port of call was El Rio Y Mar; a stunning resort set amidst a backdrop of mountains and lush mangroves and has its own bay. The resort boasts a 500 meter stretch of white sandy beach, dotted with palm trees and recliners for weary guests who want to soak up the sun and gaze at the sea.
The first thing I noticed about the resort is the serene atmosphere which envelops you from the moment you set foot on its sandy shore. It is an oasis of calm, making it an idyllic honeymoon spot for newlyweds or the perfect hideaway for an overworked executive. Facilities include air conditioned cottages, a mini library, a souvenir and gift shop, a massage room, 24 hour room service and a stunning infinity pool located next to the Al Fresco restaurant which serves scrumptious Asian and Continental cuisine. And for the adventure seeker, the resort offers a variety of aqua sports to keep guests entertained.

After a brief visit at El Rio Y Mar, we made our way to our final destination, the Club Paradise resort, located a short distance away on Dimakya Island. We were welcomed to the resort by a group of enthusiastic, singing resort staffers. After a refreshing welcome drink, we were shown to our rooms and were offered a tour of the facilities once we were settled. Keen to see as much of the resort and surrounding area before nightfall, we quickly unpacked, made a brief tour of the resort and requested a trip to a neighboring sand bar to watch the sun set.

It was while we were waiting for our boat to arrive, that I had my first encounter with the animals who call the resort “home”. We were sitting outside the main dining hall when we heard a commotion inside and saw a lady run out and the male staff head inside. Intrigued to see what had caused the commotion, we craned our heads to see the staff pulling a string with a very large reptile attached to it. At first, I thought it was a snake, but when they brought it out, we saw that it was a monitor lizard. Our intrepid photographer decided to she wanted to take a close-up photograph of the lizard. I stood to one side, watching her bravely move closer and closer to the reptile, all the while clicking away furiously, when suddenly the string the lizard was attached to, snapped. The lizard turned and started running towards me. I in turn, started screaming and ran in the opposite direction. When I thought I was a safe distance away, I turned around to see the concerned photographer and bemused staff watching me, waiting, no doubt for me to calm down. By now, the poor lizard had long since scurried off in the opposite direction: I’m sure it was annoyed to have been tied up, photographed and then screamed at by a crazy tourist.

After all that excitement, we headed to a sandbar located about 400 meters from Club Paradise. Being a Capetonian, I always thought I was one with the sea, but when it comes to views, the color and temperature of the water, the water surrounding the islands of Palawan will do nicely, thank you. A few meters from the sand bar we stopped the boat’s engines because my friend wanted to paddle to shore in a kayak. While waiting for her to reach the shore, I’d trail my fingers in the water, mesmerized. It’s that kind of water – it draws you in and wraps itself around you: it makes you forget where you’ve come from and what you’ll be going back to. When we eventually reached the sandbar, Club Paradise staff set up an area for us to sit and watch the sun set. Cocktails in hand we sat there in silence, savoring the last rays of sunshine. Pure bliss…

Back at the resort we enjoyed a delectable supper before collapsing into bed to recharge for the day ahead. The Coron Islands tour is a whole day tour, which is kick started with an early breakfast at 06h00, before the boat collects you at 06h30. Our tour guide, was a friendly man called Carding who came over to our breakfast table to introduce himself to the group (and later, to shepherd us onto the boat). I’d advise visitors to wear a swimming costume underneath their shorts and t-shirt, as well as to pack a pair of shoes appropriate for hiking and a long sleeved top and track pants for the trip. From the resort we made our way to Decalachao Bridge, and then traveled for an hour by car to Coron Town.

From there, we took another boat ride to an area dominated by seven limestone cliffs, which, if you believe local tales, is said to have been one big land mass hundreds of years ago. We set down anchor in this area, which is a well known snorkeling and dive spot because of its many Japanese wrecks and the bounty of beautiful fish. A trip to see the famous Maquinit Hot Springs was next on the itinerary. The water in this natural hot springs is heated by a volcano on the other side of the mountain. Featuring a Madonna and child statue, locals believe the spring water has healing powers and regularly make a trip to bathe in the 40 Degree water.

From there we made our way to the enchanting Kayangan Lake where we disembarked our boats and climbed up steep mountain steps and were treated to a spectacular view of the lake. The lake is one of many lakes in the area which is protected by the Tagbanua tribe, who are the indigenous people of the Coron Islands. Another volcanic lake which we visited was Lake Barracuda, which, as the name suggests, is home to the barracuda fish. Diving and snorkeling are forbidden in this lake and the pathway to the lake consists of steep limestone rocks which jut out at different angles, making it a challenging climb. Appropriate footwear is a must.

From here we made one last island hop, which had a secluded lagoon; this was by far my most favorite part of the island hopping excursion. With calm, turquoise waters and beautiful surrounding cliffs, this was my idea of heaven. This was also where we enjoyed our packed lunch (courtesy of Club Paradise) and could just sit and marvel at the beauty of it all.

Coron Town is everything you’d expect of a small town: laid-back with warm and welcoming residents. We were serenaded by a young girl with a beautiful voice when we disembarked our boat and received with open arms by the owner of a cashew nut factory, who sent us home with armfuls of packets of cashew nuts. After a full day spent island hopping, it was time to embark on our journey back to Club Paradise.

At the resort that evening, I decided, on recommendation from my friend, to try a traditional Philippine massage, the Hilot massage, which is known for its healing powers. Since I prefer a medium to deep tissue massage, my masseuse advised me to only have a 30 minute session as Hilot massage strokes typically emphasize the nerves, for better blood circulation. My massage may not have been as relaxing as others I’ve had, but my masseuse did an excellent job of ridding my body of all the tension knots which had accumulated.

The one activity which I was too much of a wuss to participate in was the diving. According to advanced divers and newbies alike, this is what Club Paradise and indeed, Palawan is famous for. I have no idea why I didn’t utilize the opportunity to learn from some of the best dive masters in the Philippines: I’d watched them teach an elderly couple in the resort’s swimming pool the previous day and knew I would be in good hands. The Dugong Dive Center offers diving to guests of Club Paradise and El Rio y Mar. Dimakya Island (on which Club Paradise is built) has its own House Reef, which is unique in that it allows you to enter via the beach. Sea cows (or dugong as they’re called locally) can be found all along the coast of Busuanga and the Dive Center runs a professionally produced ecotourism activity, taking divers and non-divers along the lengthy coast of Busuanga to see gentle dugongs in the wild.

Before embarking on my journey to this remote island, I knew very little about it: All I knew was that it boasts two UNESCO World Heritage sites: Puerto-Princesa Subterranean River National Park and Tubbataha Reef Marine Park and that it was where the world’s largest pearl had been found. What I didn’t expect was to be charmed by this hidden paradise. I was glad I had made this trip to a place that’s referred to as “the Last Frontier” by Filipinos and foreigners alike.

Nobody is certain why the explorer Magellan went out of his way to visit the Philippines and before he could record his memoirs, he was killed on the tiny island of Mactan. As we boarded the flight back to Manila I looked back with wonder and awe at this beautiful place and hoped that Magellan had also been lucky enough to visit this pristine part of the world.

Travel Notes:

5 things you need to know:
1 – Even though we traveled to Palawan during the rainy season, we were blessed with fabulous weather: think clear, blue skies and glorious sunshine. Prepare for a weekend of swimming costumes, board shorts, sarongs, a lightweight, water-proof “beach bag” to stash your money and camera in and if you opt to do the Coron island hop, pack trainers for hiking, a lightweight, long sleeved cotton t-shirt which also covers the neck area and the odd pair of track pants to ward off mosquitoes.
2 – The mozzies on the islands are reputed to be malaria and dengue-free, but for peace of mind, visit a travel clinic a week before for prophylactics. Also invest in a good quality insect repellant (preferably one containing DEET)
3- The sun can be relentless, so to avoid heat stroke and sunburn, be sure to pack sunscreen and a hat.
4- Leave your blackberry or iPod behind. Your tour guide will provide the entertainment.
5- Leave your city slicker demeanor behind. Here the first thing you’ll hear in the morning is the cry of an animal – be it gecko, fruit bat or bird.

El Rio Y Mar
Tel. Nos. (63-2) 838-4956 to 60
Email: info@elrioymar.com
Website: www.elrioymar.com

Club Paradise
Tel. Nos. (63-2) 838-4956 to 60
Email: reservations@clubparadisepalawan.com
Website: www.clubparadisepalawan.com

Northern Samar Highlights

Just along the San Bernardino Straight, where the waters of the Pacific Ocean flow towards the South China Sea, lies the province of Northern Samar. Across from it lies Matnog, Sorsogon which is at the southernmost tip of Luzon. This is where we spent five adventurous days exploring this unique frontier. Seeking to locate it on the map, I pointed out to my travel buddy, Kaye, that Northern Samar was located at the northeastern-most portion of the country, which reaches far out into the vast Pacific Ocean.

Aside from its treasure trove of ecotourism sites, we found that it brought back a rich history of galleons past. The town of Catubig was the first Spanish pueblo and cabezeria to evangelize this region of Samar Island. The town of Palapag was the very first port of call of the Galleon trade during the Spanish colonial times. Goods from all over the world were sent in as ships sailed from the ports of Mexico and native Philippine goods of abaca, beeswax and other agricultural produce, which were high in demand, were exported to reach as far as Mexico, Spain, and Peru. At Palapag, we found the monument of the Philippine Hero Juan Agustin Sumuroy who led the Sumuroy rebellion in 1649. It marked a significant event in our country’s history as some accounts of the rebellion claim to have reached the Bicol region, and as far south as Mindanao.

A definite point of interest we had was Capul Island which was said to be the provisioning port of call of the galleons. The island got its name from Acapulco, whose inhabitants speak a unique local dialect. This is where we witnessed the spectacular view of the island\'s lighthouse which beams over the whirlpools and strong underwater currents of the San Bernardino Straight. The island also contains caves which are quite a challenge to conquer but provide much for the Ecotourism explorer to discover. Stalactites and Stalagmites formed by thousands of years abound here, and numerous animal and insect species inhabit the caves\' natural habitats. On the way back, we walked along the path lined with the island\'s cool streams, coconut trees and grassy landscape. Our guide gladly climbed up a tree to toss us a few coconuts to quench our thirst after the long trek and climb. Northern Samar is known to keep lots of other caves that have yet to be reached by the most experienced spelunkers. The Langun Gobingob caves, we were told by cave tour guide Joni Bonifacio, also known as Samar’s “Caveman”, are among the largest in Asia, containing caverns which are many stories high. Joni said that his tours can take anywhere from a day to a few days of spelunking and camping inside.

One breezy Banca ride from the Lavizares port brought us to the majestic rock formation at Biri Island which is a delight for every nature photographer. After the banca ride, we hitched onboard motorbikes to reach this splendid setting. With almost parallel arrangements of mangroves at the base of its foreground, it is definitely a magnificent site to behold! Hundreds of years of waves repetitively hitting these coastal structures have formed grooves on the rock formations designed by Mother Nature herself. One can even swim in the pools of water found in between them during low tide. Rock formations such as the Mayong Payong, are also found on the easternmost portion of Northern Samar and are quite a distance to travel on rough roads.

Also in the far eastern portion of Northern Samar, at the end of the Gamay River, we found the Matikawol Falls. A much closer option, we were told, is the Pinipisakan Falls whose cascading waterfalls are a great picnic hideaway for nature lovers.

The list of the sites we visited, and those we have yet to visit are just too many to count. The Pineil’s Farm Resort is a favorite among the locals with its sprawling gardens and farm animals, many of which roam around freely. It serves as a welcome treat for the young, and the young at heart. The Batag lighthouse is also a must see with its awesome view of the eastern pacific coastline. We had a long climb up the mountain but the site at the end of our trail was a prize well worth it. Our snorkeling trip to Bariw Sila Island with its crystal clear blue waters only made us promise ourselves that a dive trip in the future must ensue. There were dolphins as we approached the many islands surrounding the area when we went, and after our trip, we were told of sightings of migrating whale sharks too. So much to see, so little time!

The Samar experience has become one that will last our lifetime. Samar is the next best secret to our country’s tourism industry. Come and explore it to see why.

TRAVEL NOTES

How to get there:
Domestic carriers have flights to Northern Samar from Manila.

Where to Stay:

Bobon Beach Resort
Dancalan, Bobon, Northern Samar
Tel. No.: (0927) 294 9625
Website: www.bobonbeachresort.com

Yoga: An Elemental Journey at Edsa Chi

Welcome to Chi Spa of the Edsa Shangri-La. Once you enter its vicinity, you will be greeted by the joyful sounds of the water cascading from the mini falls right at the entrance. It has an impressive garden setting with row of plants lining the pathway as you walk through the entrance of the main spa lobby. The minute you step into the imposing doorway of the lobby, your nose will be teased by the rejuvenating scent of aromatherapy oil floating in the air with soothing music whispering in your ears. It is a solemn moment that slowly penetrates your soul, telling your system that its time to calm down. The interior has dim lighting and hues that evoke the subdued element of fire, complemented by the reception staff wearing elegant outfits with a mix of orange and crimson.

Well-trained spa personnel will accompany you to the fourth floor where the exclusive spa facilities are. It has a consistent look and feel that will transport you to a serene journey to a different place, a different world in time. It’s like going on a peaceful retreat to the Himalayas to calm the spirit, relax the mind and ease the soul. There is a corridor with impressive Asian modern architectural design that will lead you to the various spa treatment rooms. There is an enticing couples’ room with outdoor Jacuzzi where lovers can romantically relax prior to the heavenly treatments.

Apart from the impressive spa amenities, my personal journey at Chi started with the Yoga class. It was introduced to me by Cathy Turvill, the founding President of the Spa Association of the Philippines. I live a fast paced life and slowing down is not part of my motto, thus, yoga is not my cup of tea. I tried it several times in various gyms just to appease my curiousity if I can find the same benefits that my friends are getting out of it. I never found the answer to it.

With the five star yoga services at Chi Spa, I told myself, why not try it? I’m a personal fan of luxury so joining a class surrounded by premium facilities might do wonders for me. I went to call for an appointment and met the Yoga instructor by the name of Lex Bonife. I immediately told him that I am not a fan of yoga and I never really liked it but I’m taking my chances again to check whether I can find the answers to my questions with this ancient phenomenal tradition.

My first day at the yoga class was an experience on its own. From the time I entered this magical haven, I was provided with a refreshing glass of lemon water as I relaxed in the comfortable lounge with an interesting array of reading materials. Their yoga room was not the typical well-lit area that I usually see in other studios. The dim lights immediately offered a certain level of stillness. Hygienic yoga mats together with a clean face towel which you can use during the class are provided. The moment my yoga teacher sits at the center to command the beginning of the class, I immediately feel the calm spirit he transmits. We start with breathing exercises with eyes closed and with the music playing on the background.

I try to be still and just go with the flow. I hear an unusual melody in the air that sounds like a deep rhythm of meditation resonating with nature. It makes me feel as if I am on top of a mountain surrounded by nature with a group of people wearing free flowing white outfits doing a peaceful yoga stance. It was a clear image with a nice ray of sunlight and a calm breeze dancing around us as we smell the invigorating scent of nature. It was such a phenomenal moment for me.

When Lex slowly whispered to open the eyes, I felt like I went through a deep state of trance. We continued with the slow breathing exercises. As we inhale deeply, our belly lifts up while we feel the lungs expand as we exhale with our spine sitting tall. We were instructed to be conscious of what is happening in our body as we activate our core muscles in the belly in every movement. I suddenly felt the fats in my rice belly slowly activating. As we do the series of core postures and powerful stretch exercises from the shoulder blade to the lower back, I felt my muscles clapping happily as it lingers into the overdue stretch that it deserves for many years. With the blockage in the body slowly breaking down, you suddenly feel the energy starting to flow freely, allowing you to move and push yourself to the maximum capacity, making your body feeling powerful. I remember reading an interview of the sensational singer Madonna saying that she does not go to the gym anymore as she is only doing yoga and never felt stronger from then on.

The one-hour-and-thirty-minute yoga class has been such a contrasting experience for me. It is an extremely intense exercise that provides you with unimaginable strength yet peacefully relaxing that gives you a deep sense of calmness. From a peaceful opening of the class, it ends well by allowing our body to lie down comfortably with my eyes closed, arms open, and palms facing upward. As the lights dimmed, I just allowed my mind and body to flow freely, gently feeling the inner tranquility that it brings. It was an experience of being in a deep sleep while your mind remains conscious. It felt like lying in the middle of the beach at night, listening to the gentle lap of the water to the shore with the cold breeze embracing your body. As I slowly open my eyes, the gentle lights on the ceiling looks like magical star lights that twinkle happily over me, bidding me a glorious life.

Lex has requested to gently twist our body to the right as we slowly move to the upright seated position. He looked like a yoga master, sitting beautifully with palms together right at his chest and said “Bring this calmness with you for the rest of week. Namaste.”

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

Chi, The Spa
EDSA Shangri-La Manila
1 Garden Way, Ortigas Center,
Mandaluyong City, Manila
(63 2) 633 8888 or 634 7303
chi.edsa@shangri-la.com
www.shangri-la.com/spa

How to get there:
Chi the Spa of EDSA Shangri-La is located along the Garden Way in between the Shangri-La Mall and the hotel. Just ask the the taxi to take you to EDSA Shangri-La in Mandaluyong.

In Harmony

I remember the sound of tranquility waking me up from my mental slumber, with a soft yet lingering scent of incense enveloping me to calm my inner being. On the outside, I look refreshed, renewed and content, but inside, I am overjoyed, mesmerized and above all, yearning for more. Like the travelers of John Hilton’s novel, Lost Horizon, I found my Shangri-La at Chi, the Spa, it’s a sad reality though that often times you can’t stay long in paradise. My journey begins as I tread over the wooden bridges going to the Sanctum of the spa village. Greeted with warm lights and warmer smiles, I start my tour of Chi, the Spa and little by little, I felt the energy flowing freely in the atmosphere.

Known as one of the biggest and grandest spas in Asia, Chi, the Spa unravels its beauty with every step you take within its grounds. Sprawled across this 10,000-square meter pampering haven are enchanting pools, gardens and private villas. From Ms. Lindell Nelis, the Spa Director of Chi, I learned that the village followed the Chinese lucky digits of 1-6-8. Chi is composed of 8 single villas complete with its own fully-furnished treatment and change rooms and bath areas. Next are the 6 ocean villas which are strategically located near the Cebu waters. Last is the Grand villa which can accommodate more than two people for their treatments and more than 20 people in its lavish area. All the private villas are named under the Himalayan words used in John Hilton’s novel. For example, the Grand Villa was named Karakal meaning “Blue Moon.”

One can only be astonished by the exquisite and refined architecture the spa identifies with. The signature Himalayan architecture of the place gives guests a glimpse of what Shangri-La really is… a paradise of unparalleled splendor. While I stroll around the Himalayan hamlet, the scent of incense fills the air and I am surprised with the familiar notes fused with the mystical aroma. The spa uses native ingredients like Virgin Coconut Oil, Sampaguita flowers, Calamansi, (Philippine Lime), coffee and mangoes in their treatments. Every Chi Spa has learned to adapt the use of indigenous ingredients from their locality. I suddenly feel a burst of excitement wondering what other unique treatments are used in the different Chi Spas all over the world.

Not only is the Filipino touch evident in the treatments but also in the spa’s architectural designs. Capiz windows border the pavilion walls while the furnishings are made by local artisans. An evident Filipino element is the Anahaw leaves used as ceiling fans to cool down guests in their open-air pavilions. The sun is just about to set when I came back to the Sanctum to start my treatment. I sit down on one of its sofas and I feel a shift of energy surrounding me. The tingling amber tones and golden glows of the Sanctum signal the end of a journey and the beginning of a new one.

For my spa session, I have chosen the Chi Balance Massage for intimate reasons. I am intrigued by how the massage is uniquely customized not only to my preference but also according to my elements. Before the treatment, I filled up a questionnaire on my preference about color, mood, taste and other personal details. Now, my therapist, Valerie guides me towards my private sanctum.

I enter Baskul, named after the town where the character of the novel started their journey towards Shangri- La. The same soft amber tones gleam inside the spa pavilion but this time I have it all to myself. Valerie shows me the results of the questionnaire. My birthday is on September 1, 1985 making me, in the Chinese zodiac, an Earth Ox. Results then show that my balancing (Yin/Yang) elements consist of Fire & Earth. Fire signifies vision and indulgence while Earth symbolizes peace and harmony. Valerie explains the deeper meaning of the elements and treats me to the different scents of the oriental element oils. Each element has the following: Orange and Mandarin for Water, Geranium and Fennel for Earth, Lavander and Neroli for Fire, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus for Metal and Lavander and Patchouli for Wood. Although it’s standard to follow the Yin/Yang elements, in this case, Fire and Earth, I opt for the Fire and Metal combination because of my infatuation with the smell of Eucalyptus.

Valerie then gives me a cold towel infused with lemon scent and a hot cup of revitalized tea to start the tea ritual. Even the flavor of the tea is customized to your preference. Mine has the hint of dale and mulberry flavors in accordance with my fire element. Next is the foot scrub. The spa uses coconut milk to moisten the skin and May-Chang scrub made up from sandalwood and cream.

The massage begins with the tap of the Tibetan singing bowl, a traditional part of the treatment not only to signify the start of the massage but also to balance the parts of the brain. Just when I think the foot pampering was over, Valerie starts the Chinese foot pounding treatment using heated linen pouches filled with several ingredients like lemongrass to forcefully thump on the base of my feet.

The Chi Balance Massage focuses on rebalancing the Yin/ Yang status of a person. It uses unique Asian
techniques to both stimulate and sooth the person’s elements. I feel the strong acupressure touches on some distinct spots (Meridian points Valerie would explain) on my skin which is said to unblock the imbalances of my Yin/ Yang and also to release the toxins of the body. I enjoy the light massage on my back as it gently eases away the tension of my muscles. After 90 minutes of healing, I am awakened by the sound of small cymbals to indicate the end of my treatment. After serving another cup of hot revitalized tea, Valerie hands me a prescription of future treatments and recommended products to further guide me for a much better well-being.

With a speechless disposition, a healed back and a heavenly smile, I bid Valerie, Ms. Lindell, and Chi, the Spa, farewell. Unlike the travelers of Lost Horizon, I have the pleasure of returning to this beautiful place anytime I can. In Cebu, I have found paradise, my Shangri-La.

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

Chi, the Spa
Shangri-La Mactan Resort and Spa
Punta Engano Road, Lapu-Lapu, Cebu
(63 32) 231 0288
www.shangri-la.com/spa

OPERATI NG HOURS: The spa village is open daily from 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

Other spa treatments:
Water Shiatsu (1 hour and 30 minutes Php 5,300)
Enjoy this unique treatment experience in the privacy of the specially designed Watsu Pavilion. Whilst gently floating in soothing warm water, stretching and shiatsu-like massage techniques are applied. This extraordinary water therapy experience imparts a feeling of weightlessness and free movement, whilst easing muscles and improving flexibility. A deeply relaxing sensation unlike no other.

Himalayan Healing Stone Massage (2 hours and 15 minutes, Php 6,500)
Inspired by the healing rituals of Lake Kokonar in Tibet. An ancient massage technique using a combination of hot stones heated in oils and herbs to ground the body and restore vitality and cool stones to balance stress.

The Indulgence of Time (2 hour and 30 minutes, Php 7,000)
A total mind and body treatment using natural plant and herbal extracts. Commence with a Himalayan Bath Ritual followed by Chi Balance Signature Massage and a Chi Harmonizing Facial to beautify your face whilst refreshing the mind and body. Chi, the Spa has professional therapists who have been trained to perfect the Himalayan techniques and other exclusive spa rituals to uphold the Chi principals of well-being.

Based in Chi, the Spa of EDSA Shangri-La in Manila, the Spa Academy educates would-be therapists for three months of intensive training with courses focusing on anatomy, physiology, etiquette and hygiene. The Spa Academy is the only institution that provides spa education for Chi Spa therapists all over the world.

How to get there:
Shangri-La Mactan is just a 20-minute ride from the Cebu-Mactan International Airport. You can ask a taxi to drive you there or, ask the resort if they can arrange an airport transfer for you.

An Urbanite’s Ultimate Escape

When the rush hour traffic, city chaos and the daily grind begin to wear me down, I immediately plan an
escape from the urban jungle. With no hesitation, I get in my car and drive down south.

My destination? Tagaytay.

It’s the most common option as it is but a 2-hour drive away from Manila. It offers what every weary urbanite needs- a slow pace, cool breeze, and culinary delights to satisfy every food craving. Plus, this time around, I discover a new and attractive option that sits on a prime location at the Tagaytay ridge – a world-class spa that’s sure to make the trip truly worth it.

After a leisurely drive marked by occasional rain showers, I arrive at the Taal Vista Hotel, excited to start my afternoon of pure pampering in this popular hotel’s wellness retreat--the Ylang-ylang Spa.

As I reach the spa’s double doors and open them, the cool room and warm smiles from the staff welcome me and I notice that the scent of what can only calming sound of water trickling down a nearby room’s stone wall fountain, and the warm lemongrass and ginger tea, freshly brewed and specially concocted to give a refreshingly mild and spicy kick that awakens and soothes at the same time. All these elements carefully build up to the most anticipated feast for the senses – the hours-long ultra pampering treatment I am about to experience.

Before I head to my treatment room, I decide to take a tour of the spa’s premises.

The Ylang-ylang Spa features a set of intimate and inviting single rooms, as well as double rooms that are specially designed for couples looking for a romantic getaway. These rooms bear a tropical theme and they each house their own private shower and toilet, a soak tub and a cozy corner that acts as a mini lounge.

Looking around, I instantly notice how this spa pays careful attention to detail – a single fresh flower artfully placed atop a tiny jewelry box or the rustic and ornate ironworks fabricated to hold the muslin curtains that are dramatically draped over the treatment area. These are design elements and warm touches that may be easily overlooked but, once noticed, these little features make guests feel truly welcome and definitely more taken cared of.

What really catches my eye, however, goes beyond the spa’s interiors. The Ylang-ylang makes full use of its prime location as it provides a strategically placed view deck that affords spa goers the most awesome view of the Taal Volcano crater. I am told that one can choose to have treatments done at the deck (from foot scrubs to facials) and even hold bridal showers and private pampering parties outdoors. But with the September breeze and the light rain, I opt to stay indoors.

With my whole afternoon free, I decide to get a body scrub, an aromatherapy massage, and a facial to top off all the body treatments. I enter the treatment room with my therapist, Joy, and, soon after, I step into spa bliss. First on my pampering list is the Barako Coffee and Milk Body Scrub. Here, freshly ground barako coffee beans are used to slough away dead skin cells. During this forty-five minute treatment, the room is filled with the invigorating scent of coffee. The wonderful scent acts to lift my spirits on a wet and dreary Saturday. My therapist continues to gently massage the scrub onto my aching muscles and tired limbs, paying close attention to the back area. Once again, coffee gives me a high- - although this time, the buzz does not from its caffeine content.

As I rinse off the coffee scrub, I notice my skin feels utterly clean and polished. I then ready myself for the one-hour aromatherapy massage that acts not just to moisturize my newly exfoliated skin but also to relax both my mind and body.

I choose Ylang-ylang essential oil for my Aromatherapy Massage. To guarantee the ingredient’s freshness and effectivity, the oil is mixed right before my massage. The spa is careful to use only organic ingredients for all of its treatments and this is a welcoming thought for true spa enthusiasts. As the aromatherapy massage begins, Joy uses combination strokes for the hour long treatment. She expertly figures out which areas need special attention and she applies just the right pressure on just the right spots – the shoulder area and lower back. Her skillful kneading calms my nerves and slowly lulls me to sleep. I wake up feeling my skin extra soft, muscles truly relaxed. I consider the Tea Tree Oil Facial as the highlight of my afternoon, the finishing touch that completes the body pampering.

It starts off with cleansing of the whole face using fresh milk and then moves on to the application of the Tea Tree Oil scrub that acts to remove traces of dead skin cells. My therapist’s trained hands move gently but firmly, treating my delicate skin with great care. She proceeds to apply all-natural ingredients onto my face -- almond oil, egg white and oatmeal mask and, lastly, cucumber juice. She is cleansing my skin thoroughly and is dutifully hydrating it afterwards. The result is seen instantly! My skin feels truly soft to touch and it looks undeniably smoother (an effect which I feel even days after!). The 20-minute neck and scalp massage that comes with the facial serves as the perfect ending to my head-to-toe pampering.

Alas, my three-hour spa bliss comes to an end. Eager to make it last just a few moments longer, I put on a light sweater and step onto the view deck to catch what’s left of the Tagaytay sunset.

Outside, the fresh air blows a tad bit cooler. The sky slowly turns indigo and casts a serene mood onto the grand view of the volcano’s crater. From afar, a thin fog rolls in.

Truly, Ylang-ylang is a spa unlike any other. With a view like this, plus its world-class facilities, the top of the line organic ingredients and treatments and an expert staff, this beauty and wellness retreat can be considered as one of the unique attractions of Tagaytay.

Holding a fresh cup of lemongrass tea, I linger outside and enjoy this rare treat for the senses, trying my best to keep the thought of the 2-hour drive back to Manila out of my mind.

The magnificent scene of the Taal Lake pulls me back to reality. I think I am staying a bit longer to make the most out of this urban escape. The city can wait.

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

Ylang Ylang Spa
Taal Vista Hotel
Km. 60 Aguinaldo Highway
Tagaytay City, Philippines
(63 46) 413 1000
ylangylang-tvh@asmaraspa.com
www.asmaraspa.com/taal_vista/home.html

OPERATING HOURS: The spa is open daily with the following schedules: Sundays to Thursdays, 10:00AM - 9:00PM and Fridays to Saturdays, 10:00 AM to 12:00 MIDNIGHT

Other treatments:
Honey, Lime and Cucumber Facial (60 minutes, Php 1,150)
Lavender essential oil is used to reduce formation of blackheads and refine pores, followed by a refreshing citrus and rice scrub. After an egg and oatmeal mask, the skin is moisturized with a blend of carrot juice and Ylang-Ylang essential oil, leaving your skin fresh and dewy.

Palm Oil & Carrot Juice Hair Cream Bath (60 minutes, Php 1,050)
The cream bath based on rice starch and palm oil is applied from the roots to the ends of your hair to treat dry and damaged hair. Carrot juice is added to heal split ends. Your scalp will be massaged with fingertip pressure to stimulate and encourage new hair growth. After steaming, the cream is washed off leaving hair healthy, soft and shiny.

Scalp Aromatherapy (60 minutes, Php 1,150)
Essential oils naturally enhance hair color, help rebalance the scalp after hair has been chemically colored and improve hair texture and appearance. The active essential oils are added to vegetable oil and heated to penetrate the scalp more easily. A vitalizing and nourishing cream bath is then applied and massaged thoroughly on hair and scalp. Putting up a spa with world-class standards is no easy feat. But thanks to years of solid experience in spa development and an undying enthusiasm for spa management, it becomes a task that easily translates to passion. A veteran in the spa industry both in the local and international scene, Dr. Charles Sutter has a made a business out of his lifelong passion. He is the man to look for when you want to build a spa from scratch. Using his valuable knowledge from all his travels and experiences in opening spas worldwide, he has founded Asmara, Inc., a company that offers full spa consultancy and management services. Consider it a one-stop spa management company that offers services like: Concept Development, Hiring and Training of Staff, Interior Design, and development of Menu Services. Asmara Inc. has done spa development for local groups like Pearl Farm Beach Resort in Samal Island; Club Punta Fuego in Batangas; Marco Polo Hotel in Davao City; and soon, in Hotel Vida at the Clark Freeport Zone. Looking at his body of work, one can’t help but feel impressed.

How to get there:
The Ylang-Ylang Spa is located at the plush grounds of the Taal Vista Lodge in Tagaytay. Located along Aguinaldo Highway, Tagaytay is a 2-hour drive from the city.

Where the Sea Meets the Sky

When I first entered the open air spa pavilion of the Badian Natural Spa, I was astounded by what I saw. It was where I first felt the meaning of perfect as I caught a glimpse of pure spa paradise before my eyes.

For many years, the Badian Island Resort and Spa has given world-class services to its guests and has earned its reputation as one of the best romantic destinations of the country. Located at the south western side of Cebu, it is dubbed as one of the best kept secrets of the island because of its exclusivity and superiority in terms of class and accommodations. And for one glorious day, I got to experience them all and more.

After freshening up a bit in my private pool villa, I venture on to the resort’s Badian Natural Spa and Thalasso. I really don’t know what to expect because, this is the first time I heard of this romantic paradise which is a good thing because the surprises just went on and on. The first thing I learn about Badian is that not only is it considered to be of one of the most romantic resorts in the Philippines but its spa is known to be one of the best in the world. In 2006, just six years after it first started, the renowned AsiaSpa Magazine named the Badian Natural Spa and Thalasso one of the 10 Best Island Resort Spas along with other celebrated island spa resorts such as Anumba Spa of The Racha in Thailand, The Six Senses Spa of the Soneva Fushi Resort in the Maldives and the Manea Spa of the Le Taha’a Private Island in the French Polynesia.

I enter the spa lobby and am greeted by the warm spa receptionist who offers us cold towels and hot tea to warm us up. Next is the tour of the spa facilities. The spa has numerous open air pavilions to cater to the different treatments offered. The Badehauses (German for Bathhouse) are specially used for healthy and beauty baths that use the finest wellness ingredients. Upon entering one of the badehouse, I am astounded by the meticulous flower arrangement floating in one of the bathtubs. I suddenly realize how the Badian staff personalizes each and every element of their spa. Located below are the treatment pavilions used for upper body massages and for additional treatments such as manicures, pedicures and foot scrubs. A little further east is the Finland Dry Saunas. This special feature of the spa promotes wellness by cleansing the body through heavy sweating. Last but not the least is the spa’s very special feature, the Thalasso. From the Greek word “Thalassa,” meaning power of the sea, the Thalasso waterfalls and pools combines the pleasure of indulgence and well-being. The thalasso pools use filtered seawater which contains a blend of complex minerals that help rebalance a body’s mineral deficiencies. The pools also have comfortable beds submerged under the water so guests can lounge and relax while enjoying their seawater treatment. The best thing about the spa is that all the pavilions have a magnificent view of Badian Bay overlooking the Cebu mainland. Guests will surely enjoy a relaxing paradise by the sea and under the sky in the Badian Natural Spa.

After the tour, we are ready to try the world-class treatments of the Badian Natural Spa. I am scheduled for the Badian Deluxe 4-Hand Massage, a 1-hour-and-15-minute treatment. A few weeks before, my officemate jokingly asked me why the spa offered the 4-Hand Massage as my treatment. “Maybe they suggested a ‘for’ hand massage because you are a writer.” Fortunately for me, it was more than just for the hands. The treatment, Badian Deluxe 4-hand massage, pertains to the two therapists who will massage your body with synchronized movements and strokes. So not only will I enjoy a great massage but also have the double delight of having my body pampered by two well-trained therapists. The treatment starts with a soothing foot scrub with the therapist using a special rice scrub to cleanse my feet. Using a little foot-shaped clay, the therapist gently cleanses and massages my feet. Next is the massage. The spa uses four kinds of aromatherapy oils for their treatment. The Mi Amore is made from the essence of Lavander; next is the Island Breeze which is a combination of cloves and ginger; the third is Tranquility which comes from the essence of the Ylang-ylang flower. The last, the one that I choose for my treatment is Serenity, a mix of lemon and eucalyptus. The 4-hand massage begins with the two therapists putting their hands together, palm to palm then setting them down to the body. From the shoulders down to the lower back, they make long strokes and stretches which they repeatedly do leaving a complete and soothing touch all over my body. Their movements act with total sync and precision, giving the impression that they have been thought very well on how to move coordinately and at the same time give an everlasting impression of completeness and tranquility. One of the therapists starts on my shoulders while the other begins to massage my feet. How I wish I could get two people to do that for me again!

By the time I finish, bright stars are already sprawled all over the dark skies. Another massage treatment has ended for me, but the soft and healing touch of the therapists will always linger on my mind. The Badian Natural Spa and Thalasso truly deserves to be called one of the best island spa resorts in the world. Guests will surely enjoy a relaxing paradise by the sea and under the sky.

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

Badian Natural Spa and Thalasso
Badian Island Resort & Spa
Badian Island, Cebu
(63 32) 475 1102 to 1106
badiancebu@aol.com
www.badianhotel.com

OPERATING HOURS: The spa is open daily from 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

The Badian Natural Spa and Thalasso offer more than the usual body scrub, beauty baths and body treatments. It uses the freshest and finest ingredients to pamper and bring wellness to their guests. Among their most recommended spa services are the seaweed treatments. Applying fresh seaweeds on the body rehydrates and moisturizes the skin enriches it with more vitamins for a healthier, fresher look.
Choose from an assortment of seaweed-based treatments from hand and foot spas, body wraps, facials or even the complete seaweed treatment package (2 hours and 30 minutes, Php 7,590).

For the spa addicts who want to have the whole Badian experience, they can have the Ultimate Pampering Treatment (2 hours, Php 5,520) where guests can choose from the list of Double Treat Harmony packages and both the selection of the Warm Touch Treatments (Delight Sampler Touch and the Refreshing Foot Massage).

The Panorama Restaurant not only offers sumptuous feasts but also healthy appetizing dishes for guests who are looking for a healthier diet.

Spend your vacation in one of Badian Island Resorts lavish suites. Guests can choose from family-style suites and the classic Badian suite or for honeymooners looking for that plush private spot, the
Thalasso Pool Villa is the perfect couple’s retreat.

The resort offers many fun-filled activities such as Dolphin Watching, Island Hopping and Pleasure Yacht trips, Mangrove Park tours Scuba diving safaris and nature treks complete with packed lunch and other features. Just inform the staff ahead of time what package you want and they will provide it for you.

How to get there:
Cebu is a regular destination route in domestic and international flights. From the Mactan-Cebu International Airport, visitors have to take a two-and-a-half-hour drive at the south-western coast
of Cebu. From the mainland, guests will take a short five-minute boat ride going to the island resort. Helicopter transfers from the airport (a 20-minute ride) are also available.

A Tropical Eden

The sweet yet lingering smell of the Ylang-ylang flower always gives the vision of a fresh mountain meadow during the coolest months of the year; quite a contrary to where it really grows which is in the middle of the wilderness. It gives a note of purity, serenity, and a hint of exoticness; but what I especially love about the Ylang-ylang is how it reminds me of the times when my grandmother and I bought pieces of it attached to Sampaguita necklaces to be offered to the Virgin Mary. Although the flower is quite abundant here in our country, its scent is unique and rare. This tropical flora leaves an indelible fragrance to its bearer, just like the same unforgettable experience I had during my visit to the Ylang-ylang Spa.

Located on the world-renowned Pearl Farm Resort in the Island Garden City of Samal, the Ylang-ylang Spa truly is an indulging Eden, surrounded by tropical plants and the raw echoes of Mother Nature. The best thing about the setting of the spa is that it’s just a number of steps away from the infinity pool of the resort, making the trip to the spa a little more convenient. No matter how close it is to the central pathway of the resort, I found that the gentle rush of the man-made waterfalls beside the spa drowns the noise from the outside and fills it with the soothing sound of nature. And, as nightfall draws near, candle lanterns light your way through the resort, leaving a lasting image of a romantic pavilion that will set your mood towards rejuvenation and relaxation. One can enjoy the rustic surroundings of the spa and also take pleasure in their treatments—from heavenly facials and hair care packages to their delectable body scrubs and long lasting spa packages that use the freshest and the finest ingredients. For those who want make their faces glow with nature’s purest elements, you can choose the Honey, Lime and Cucumber Facial (60 minutes, Php 860). Not only does the facial exfoliate and soften the skin, it also moisturizes you so you’ll look more refreshed. The Papaya Body Polish (45 minutes, Php 1,050) is perfect for those who want to rehydrate and revitalize their skin. The treatment uses fresh mashed Papaya fruit to be smeared all over your body. Because of the fruit’s mild exfoliating properties, it takes away a layer off the skin without irritating it leaving a soft glow all over your body. The Asmara Royal Massage (2 hours, Php 2,150) is Ylang-Ylang’s signature massage. It uses a special blend of essentials oils as mood therapy that will have guests surrender into complete serenity. Although I wish I have the time to try them all, I already have the most delightful pleasure of trying their special Davao Coffee and Milk Scrub (45 minutes, Php 1,270) and Swedish Massage (60 minutes, Php 850). As a self-confessed coffee addict, this is the ultimate spa treatment and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

My treatment starts with a sprinkling of warm water all over my back to moisten the skin. Then, a generous amount of grounded coffee mixed with fresh milk is smeared all over. I feel the texture of the coffee beans exfoliate my skin. I learn that the scrub is rich in calcium, protein and vitamins which are excellent against cellulites. Soon, the strong and sweet aroma of the coffee granules filled the air. As my whole body gets covered with the coffee and milk scrub, the therapist covers me with a blanket so the mix will sit for about five minutes to be absorbed by the skin. When I flip over, I could smell the lasting scent of the coffee infused in the air... I am in coffee heaven! It even has mild scent of chocolate that makes atmosphere even more enticing. After the invigorating coffee and milk scrub, it is time for the massage. The well-trained therapist immediately prepares me for my next pampering phase. Using unscented virgin coconut oil, (which I find pleasant because I still get to smell coffee in the air) she begins to make soft yet long strokes along my back and continues all over my body. What I love about this massage is how my therapist concentrates with my shoulder and neck area. I feel the tension leaving away my upper body as she repeatedly makes her pressure massages against my shoulders and neck.

The spa pavilion can accommodate two people at a time for massage treatments which I believe adds a touch of privacy and exclusivity under the lavish environment of the spa. The pavilion also has long couches for family members and friends who want to have their sessions together. While waiting for my treatment, I find myself hanging around the spa indulging in the spa’s essential oil collection, taking turns sniffing again and again the different fragrances: Peppermint, Orange, Lavender, Eucalyptus, Lemongrass and of course, the Ylang-ylang. There is also a pool for those who want to have a refreshing floral bath under the stars. According to the Pearl Farm’s new General Manager, Mr. Karl Sims, the management also plans to expand it with more rooms so more guests can enjoy the pampering services and treatments of the spa.

My short but pleasurable time in the Ylang-ylang Spa will forever remain in my heart. So whenever in Davao, see the incredible Island Garden City of Samal, stay at the splendid Pearl Farm Resort and experience true nature at the Ylang-ylang Spa.

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

YLANG YLANG SPA
Pearl Farm Beach Resort
Island Garden City of Samal, Philippines
(63 82) 221 9979
ylangylang-pfbr@asmaraspa.com
www.asmaraspa.com/pearl_farm_beach/home.html

OPERATING HOURS: The spa is open daily from 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

Nestled in the enchating Island Garden City of Samal, The Pearl Farm Resort is the perfect destination getaway for those who want to experience not only the wonders of nature but also the luxury of
living beside the spellbinding beauty of the Mindanao seas.

Enjoy the wonderful activities you can do at the Pearl Farm. From scuba diving, sea-kayaking, jet-skiing, nature walks, themed dinners, to a wonderful romantic dinner by the beach, the resort offers
unique services to make your stay more memorable.

How to get there:
From the Francisco Bangoy (Davao) International Airport, travelers can ask a taxi to take you to the Pearl Farm Marina which is just 20-minutes away from the airport. From the Marina, travelers then
have to ride a ferry boat to get to the Island Garden City of Samal. The ferry ride going to the Pearl Farm Resort takes 45 minutes.

For those waiting for the ferry boats going to Samal Island, guests can lounge at the Coffee Shop of the Pearl Farm Marina. They serve delectable snacks and dishes. It is also has wi-fi services so you can log
on to the internet anytime. A few feet away from the Coffee Shop is the boutique which sells beautiful modern-designed handmade handicrafts ideal for souvenirs.

Tradition Revisited

Housed on the topmost floors of the Mandarin Hotel in the quieter side of Makati, the Spa at Mandarin Oriental Manila is a world away from the world. Alighting from the elevator at the 18th floor, I turn the corner and spot the Spa’s glass doors and its dimly lit interiors beyond. The lone receptionist is expecting me; she stands by her tiny teak desk to greet me by my first name. The lobby holds two lounge chairs, so when I sit I am only a few feet away across. Unlike other spas fronted by a busy reception area, this one cultivates a personalized atmosphere. I am enveloped by calming oriental music, subtle scents, and soothing dark teak wood interiors, all helping to silence my mind.

A therapist offers me a refreshing cold towel soaked in signature Mandarin essential oils, and warm Ceylon tea. After I slip my feet into soft spa slippers, I feel an immediate shift in state—this exchange of shoes is the Spa’s oriental welcome, signifying the leaving of the external world behind. I’m led to the second floor to a spacious relaxation area designed like an opulent Thai-style living room, with a pocket garden, wood furniture and accents of Thai silk upholstery. The Spa contains only two couples rooms and two single rooms, so only a maximum of six people can be accommodated here at one time.

The Spa at Mandarin has gained a reputation for excellent Asian-style pampering. Luxury is what makes this spa stand out among the Philippines’ best, and it does this in understated ways. Hydraulic massage beds enable adjustments in height and angles to suit the client’s comfort level. Therapists place pillows under the knees or ankles for ultimate comfort. Service is another strength—Spa Manager, Angie Castillo, says clients rarely get turned down, even when they ring up the Spa beyond last call (at midnight). The “basic” 50-minute treatments are rarely availed of, with most callers going for those that last an hour and a half or more. The Spa rooms are worth a visit; each feels like a little five-star villa—a pair of heavy teak wood doors are a prelude to other simple luxuries for your short stay—a private shower and toilet, complete bath amenities, a dresser for freshening up after, thick
cream-colored towels to wrap yourself in, and that requisite plush white bathrobe.

The array of treatments confuses me for a moment: exclusive facials, luxurious body massages from Thai to Deep Tissue, natural wraps and exfoliating scrubs. When I reveal my dilemma, Castillo gives welcome advice. “Think not as a writer, but as a person,” she says warmly. “What do you need to do for yourself today?” Her words are manna from heaven, since I am still feeling sore from the effects of a 21-hour plane ride a week before. I am drawn to the Thai Herbal Heat Energizer, a 1-hour-and-30-minute treatment which uses heat from an herbal poultice combined with an invigorating massage to release tensions and revitalize the mind.

The use of a poultice of sweet basil and kaffir lime comes from Thailand’s Ayutthaya period, when a hot pack was administered to war soldiers returning home with muscle aches. When the therapist first touches the heated poultice on the back of my leg, it feels wonderful; I surrender my body and mind to let go of deep-seated stresses. Eyes closed, I savor the heat that immediately relaxes all the different points of my body. The medicinal heat, coupled with relaxing massage strokes with peppermint and mandarin essential oils, is truly my kind of paradise. Since heat also causes the pores to open, a bonus is my skin becomes silky-smooth for days afterward.

Eighty percent of the Spa clients are hotel guests who mostly get in-room treatments to doze off after. This was my only regret; that I was not staying at the hotel, since I had to drive home in a blissful daze. The Spa at Mandarin Oriental is a place designed for indulgence, but given the price range, it’s for those moments when you want a special treat. This is not the place you’d want to bring your girlfriends for bonding sessions, or to quickly spread to other spa-holic friends; this is the kind of oasis you’d want to keep all to yourself.

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

The Spa
Mandarin Oriental Manila
Makati Avenue, Makati City
(63 2) 750 0968 or 750 8888 local 1901 / 1902
www.mandarinoriental.com/manila/spa/

OPE RATING HOURS: The Spa at Mandarin is open daily from 9:00 AM – 1:00 AM

Other treatments:
Time Rituals (choose either the 1 hour and 50 minutes/ 2 hours and 50 minutes, Php 5,888/ Php 4,500 )
The Spa’s signature massage, it is a personalized package found in all of the Oriental’s properties around
the world. It is a Thai-inspired therapy following their flagship property, the Oriental Bangkok. Designed for those with blocks of time to spare (two or three hour periods), this is a combination of treatments tailored to the individual’s state and lifestyle, which therapists create just for you. “They are designed to restore your natural state of equilibrium and attend to your body’s needs for that day,” says Spa Manager Angie Castillo.

Therapeutic Hilot Massage (1 hour, 30 minutes, Php 3,400)
Foreign and local visitors both will love this ancient Filipino healing treatment customized to treat
specific areas of imbalance in the body. The healing massage uses a combination of deep-tissue massage
combined with smooth, flowing strokes. Hilot is a kind of lymphatic drainage treatment using mostly thumb pressure. Following an indigenous Filipino practice, a banana leaf is laced with virgin coconut oil and heated over a flame. When swept across the back, it indicates areas, which have strains and need more attention.

Dagdagay Foot Therapy (50 minutes, Php 2,200)
A traditional foot massage that originated in the Mountain Province, north of the Philippines. It is performed using two sticks (bamboo or rattan) to stimulate the nerve endings and restore optimum health.

The Spa uses Ytsara, a line of organic Asian spa products incorporating natural ingredients of herbs,
roots and flowers, blended in its own line of signature essential oils.

Ho w to get there:
The Mandarin Spa can be easily reached. Just ask the taxi to drive you along Makati Avenue.

The Spa Acropolis: The Ultimate City Escape

It’s easy to find The Spa – Acropolis, considering that I literally have no sense of direction. Located along Libis highway and a few blocks away from Eastwood City, the tall, luminous building practically sparkles from the outside. The Spa makes it easy to find comfort in what is perhaps one of the busiest streets in the city.

I arrive a full hour early for my appointment. Accompanied by a friend, we make a quick stop at The Spa’s snack bar where he wolfs down a huge plate of pasta while I sip on a mango shake—all in less than twenty minutes. With less than an hour to spare, we head for the second floor lobby where a peppermint-like scent that emanates from the whole floor immediately greets us, along with The Spa’s receptionist who gives us a quick run-through of all the services they offer. After settling for a facial and the Aromatherapy massage, a staff member comes in, places a tray of scented oils on the table and asks me to pick the one I’d like for them to use for my massage.

As I take a whiff out of each jar aptly labeled ‘energy,’ ‘serenity’ and ‘harmony’, my friend shows off his expertise by naming each scent and what benefits they’re supposed to give. Much to his prodding, I choose the lavender oil and proceed to fill out a client information sheet. Moments later, he scurries off and leaves me in the capable hands of The Spa’s personnel. I then make my way through a series of hallways and closed doors.

Behind door number one: the female locker rooms. At this point, I realize that The Spa does indeed resemble a five-star hotel. Its minimalist yet elegant interior décor is a fusion of Asian themes and a more modern look; consisting of marble floors, expensive-looking lamps and painstaking attention to detail—from the huge vanity mirrors to the sink decked full of women’s necessities (we count a hairdryer a necessity these days). It is clear that everything in The Spa is done with indulgence and style. As soon as I am handed my towel, bathrobe and slippers, I take a quick mental note of the vanity area before making my way into the wet floor facilities—equally impressive steam rooms and contrast therapy baths line up before me, currently devoid of a single soul. I walk past the area to meet with my massage therapist. She explains that it is still early and that most of their regular customers come in the late afternoon.

Door number two leads to the lounge area. She politely asks me to wait for her there while she prepares the massage room. With nothing much to do, I guzzle a cup of the complimentary tea and find a comfortable spot in one of the reclining sofas, happy and contented that I have the whole place all to myself. The therapist returns shortly, and in a state of utter peace and chamomile daze, I follow her through yet another series of hallways that lead to the massage areas.

We walk past the deluxe massage rooms (which have 6 to 9 beds each) and enter an executive suite consisting of a single massage bed, on top of which lay at least three thin, white blankets. I ease onto the bed face down and tried to relax as the smell of lavender immediately permeated the small room. Soon I doze in and out of consciousness as I undergo The Spa’s aromatherapy massage, practically losing track of the time and letting that earthy, world-mix tune lull me to sleep. The massage therapist, a girl in her early twenties, had found the cold spots along my shoulder blades and proceeded to knead my aching muscles as if they are made of dough. Before I know it, an hour had nearly passed and the therapist had begun stretching my limbs, never stopping until she hears a pop from my strained ligaments. From head to toe, I feel refreshed, invigorated even after the muscles I never knew existed suddenly came to life. She helps me put my robe back on and ushers me out back into the hallway, where another therapist comes to fetch me for my facial treatment.

With the lavender scent still trailing behind me, I enter a room filled with comfy, reclining couches. I lazily plop onto one just as the facial is about to begin. While my eyes are wrapped with a soft cloth, I immediately feel the tingly sensation of the Fango mud doing its job—scrubbing what I could only assume as dead skin cells off my face. I begin to doze off again, knowing that I finally found my drug of choice. When the 60 minutes of pure cleansing and relaxation are finally up, it is extremely hard to get off that seat—and even harder to find my way back to the locker rooms.

The typical day at any spa may give you a temporary comfort from your dreadful work week, but in The Spa Acropolis, nothing is ever that simple. After all, this is The Spa’s main branch, and one can expect nothing but the best—from its friendly personnel down to its premium quality services. One step into its sophisticated and elegant surroundings and I couldn’t help but imagine that this is what royalty must feel like; it’s as if I was invited into this exclusive secret hideaway, not to rub elbows with the rich and famous, but to merely sip tea in the relaxation room and get regally pampered with one treatment after another. And as I leave the premises, I come to the conclusion that whoever put The Spa in its current location knows exactly what they are doing: to provide a detour to those who seek refuge from the traffic or the bustling noise of the city and help them come out more refreshed and energized than ever.

The labyrinth that is The Spa proves to be a place where one can expect nothing but the royal treatment. It’s funny how from afar, a shiny building like this holds more than enough secrets and surprises fit for anyone who’s more than willing to spend their time and money for a half-day’s worth of escape from the urban jungle. As for me, I could get lost to that heady peppermint scent, anytime of the week.

Spa Travel Notes

The Spa (Acropolis)
Acropolis Center, Acropolis Green Subd.,
80 E. Rodriguez Jr. Ave., Libis, Quezon City
Tel nos. 634-2848, 634-7209
Fax no. 634-2267
Web: www.thespa.com.ph / thespa@thespa.com.ph
Hours of operation start at 1:30 – 9:30 pm daily. Appointments should be booked in advance.

Go Asian: capturing the art of Asian relaxation
The Spa Acropolis boasts itself for its Asian-inspired theme, from the interior décor, specially-designed floor facilities to the unique treatments they have to offer. Here’s a brief list of the Asian treatments you may want to try to achieve that Zen-like experience.

Javanese Royal Bath
This 90-minute body treatment is the most popular “must-try” for those who want the ultimate pampering experience. Be treated like Javanese royalty with the Lulur (a scrub traditionally used on Javanese brides as a purifying ritual before marriage) before topping it off with a floral bath.

Indian Ayurvedic Body Treatment
Much like cleansing your entire mind and body of all your worries, a warm oil massage, a herbalized paste application and a warm oil, head-to-toe treatment are what’s in store if you want to go “Ayurvedic” for a full 90 minutes.

Shiatsu Massage
A staple in every spa. Hardcore massage enthusiasts like the sound of their cold spots crackling away—and it only takes one hour in this Japanese-style pressure point technique.

Luxury Redefined

Most dictionaries define the word “ritz” somewhat negatively. Coined from the name of the Swiss founder of a chain of elegant, luxury hotels, it is described as an ostentatious or pretentious display of wealth; a gaudy show of luxury meant to attract notice and impress others. But there is nothing tasteless or vulgar about the facade that greets me when my fiancée and I visit the Ritz Tropical Spa in Subic.

Its label as a tropical spa is perhaps more appropriate, as a mix of Balinese and Filipino interiors remind those who enter that this is a sanctuary in the tropics. For people like me whose jobs require us to be in constant communication, nothing is more pleasurable than the opportunity to take a mental break from the cacophony of urban chaos. Once inside the spa, the white muslin curtains seem to shield me from the noise of busy Rizal Boulevard. Suddenly, I am in an oasis of serenity.

There is something to be desired in having such sensual pleasures in a place where the ambiance alone can evoke a feeling of complete and utter relaxation. The small receiving section leads to the wet areas, with separate facilities for men and women. Couples can reunite at a second lobby at the back, which serves as a waiting area for guests while awaiting well-groomed therapists and treatment specialists to lead them to their respective pleasures. This second lobby opens up to an entire complex of rustic thatch roofed huts that serve as the main treatment area.

Native bahay kubos (huts) are found just off the small patio where one can have drinks and refreshments while watching white swans glide across the water. The huts serve as personal enclaves, named sweetly after the aromatherapy oils available to suit each individual fancy. I find it quite heart warming to be able to choose to have my massage in rooms with names such as cinnamon, patchouli, pine, rose and lavender. Needing nothing more to whet my appetite for pampering, I head back into the wet area to prep for my chosen treatments.

On that day, we choose to try the spa’s signature foot reflexology combined with my favorite of all massages, a full hour of Swedish ecstasy. The spa offers this 2-hour combination at a rate of Php 1,500.00. Not bad, considering that even the most basic treatments come with the use of the shower, sauna, steam room and jacuzzi. Entering the locker rooms, one already begins the journey into
royalty.

The Ritz Tropical Spa makes sure there is nothing I would need that they cannot provide. The locker rooms are staffed with 2 pleasant women who are practically at my beck and call for anything I could need or want. The spa provides you with everything --- from the standard robe and towels, free toiletries and specially prepared potions, toothbrush and toothpaste, and even a pair of shorts to change into. It is a pleasant observation that they even have sterilizers for their provided combs and brushes. Apparently, sanitation is of paramount importance at the Ritz.

Complimentary bathrobe and slippers on, we are led to one of the VIP rooms to begin our trip to nirvana. VIP rooms cost a bit more at Php 1,400.00 per person for an hour’s treatment. But it’s a worthwhile expense for couples like us who consider spa time, bonding time. Families could even choose to use the Presidential room (Php 2,000/pax), which is practically a small house with a sitting room, veranda and 2 separate treatment areas.

The foot reflexology begins with an authentic herbal footbath, the mix of herbs flown in from China. It is
believed that the warm water causes the veins in the feet to expand and helps to regulate blood circulation. By adding an herbal infusion, minerals and phytochemicals from the herbs enter the soles of the feet through opened pores and circulate in the blood stream. While my feet soak in herbal goodness, the therapist begins to apply steady pressure on my shoulders to begin the back and arm massage that comes with the treatment.

After my upper body has been kneaded into relaxation, my feet are dried and the reflexology begins. A specialized cocktail of virgin coconut oil, infused with the scent of Sampaguita, is used during the massage. I sit half-prone, listening drowsily to the soft strains of oriental music being piped-in ever so subtly that I would not even have noticed had I not made an effort to do so. It is almost a surprise to me when the therapist wraps my feet mummy style and leaves the room. I check the clock and realize an hour had passed without me knowing it.

A short break after the foot reflexology allows us time to tour the grounds. I realize then that when they say they offer any kind of body pampering imaginable they truly mean it. A peek at one of the communal huts shows modern facial care stations where guests can have collagen and Vitamin C facials or dead sea black mud masks starting at Php 1,000.00.

The Jasmine hut has 4 rooms that have equipment and facilities for body scrubs, body waxing and various body treatments. For Php 2,000.00, one can choose to be slathered in honey, soaked in milk or covered in dead sea mineral mud. For Php 1,300.00, one can experience the anti-stress scrub, mood-uplifting scrub or the relaxing scrub. Another hut houses a full service salon that is equipped to provide all manner of services from the requisite hair cut, hot oil, shampoo and blow dry to scalp treatments, expert hair color, manicures and pedicures. Truly a pampering experience from head to foot!

The Ritz offers different massage styles --- Japanese Shiatsu, Thai or combination. For me the long kneading strokes characteristic of the popular Swedish massage is the definite winner. At the hands of their senior therapist, I find myself in another hour of pure luxury. I like using oils with a hint of eucalyptus and peppermint. I find the subtle coolness relaxing. But those who prefer other scents are sure to find one to their liking as the Ritz Tropical Spa has a wide selection of aromatherapy oils to offer. Indeed they had thought of practically everything.

After a long hot shower, I linger around the grounds. The thing with such heavenly pampering is it becomes quite difficult to leave. No wonder why many of the foreign guests are seen lounging about the many settees scattered around the spa. I ask the manager why it is that they don’t expand into a resort that can offer accommodations for overnight stays and transform the place into an all-in-one vacation destination. I am happy to be told that this is indeed in their plans for the future. Holding a cold drink in my hand, I relax on their patio and watch the garden come alive with lights as the sun set on the lagoon.

Indeed, the Ritz Tropical Spa redefines what luxury means. There are no gaudy gold embellishments,
heavy brocade tapestries and vulgar displays of wealth here. It is the feeling of wellness, physical and spiritual contentment that makes a visit to this spa a truly rich and lavish experience.

Spa Travel Notes

RITZ TROPICAL SPA
Blk 76, Bicentennial Park,
Rizal Highway,
Subic Bay Freeport Zone
Olongapo City
(63 47) 252 60 88
www.theritzspa.com

Manila branch:
The Ritz Spa Manila
#1614 Adriatico St., Ermita,
Manila
(63 2) 523 3333

OPERATING HOURS: The Ritz is open daily from 12:00 NOON – 12:00 MIDNIGHT

How to get there:
Experiencing such pampering in a tropical setting has never been easier. With the newly constructed Subic-Clark- Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX), Subic is now only an hour and half away from Metro Manila. Get on the North Luzon Expressway via the Balintawak exit and drive straight to the end. Follow the signs to get on the SCTEX and voila! You are in Subic. Be prepared, however, to pay for the toll fees!

North Luzon Expressway
(Balintawak to SCTEX exit) = Php 174.00
SCTEX (Dau to Subic) = Php 112.00
Subic Expressway(NLEX segment 7) = Php 18.00

Spa 6750

I’ve been massaged all over the world: in a Thai hut in Ko Phi Phi, on the white sands of Palawan, on a busy street in Taiwan, and in an off the wall mall in Guangzhou, China. I’ve indulged in luxurious spas and I’ve ordered affordable home service (massage only – God is watching), so when I proclaim myself as a massage connoisseur, I do it without any arrogance or self-importance. Okay, maybe there’s a little bit of smugness. In my Olympic opinion, Spa 6750 is the Michael Phelps of spas in the city - without the heavy breakfast.

Conveniently located in the business district of Makati, Spa 6750 is an urban getaway within an urban getaway waiting to be discovered. The moment you walk in the European luxury lifestyle inspired lobby area, where the receptionist greets you by name, a sense of relaxation and rejuvenation takes over you as you forget deadlines and dread-lines. The friendly staff pampers you with a warm lavender-scented neck hug to loosen your muscles as you prepare for a regal experience.

The rooms are private so you don’t have to worry about the snoring of others or yourself, assuming you have the same ailment. The rooms have their own glass shower and steam enclosures and bathtubs for two. The handmade custom-fit wooden treatment tables with retractable chest cavities are the most comfortable I’ve laid on, as my face did not keep sliding out of my neck like an ostrich looking for food. The music played in the room is very soothing and you have the option of bringing in your own iPod or MP3 player and plugging it in. Just don’t play 50 Cent. That is reserved for the after party.

What impressed me the most about this place were the therapists. They were well-trained and well-meaning. With each stroke, I could feel that my therapist really cared and wished my body well. You don’t normally get that from other masseuses, especially the home service ones that text, fall asleep, or sweat on the job. My therapist cared enough to say, “Mr. Tayag, this is your time to relax” before she began the treatment. She took her time in working the aches and pains in my back. I needed her and she kneaded me. I came into Spa 6750feeling a bit stressed but when I came out, I was refreshed and felt a few years younger (better than Botox).

Spa 6750 offers different kinds of massages, aromatherapy, body scrubs, foot spas, and facials. This spa is definitely worth every peso and every minute you spend. Too bad they won’t let you spend the night. I tried.

Spa Travel Notes

Spa 6750
4/F 6750 Building,
Ayala Avenue, Makati City
(63 2) 815 6750
bookme@spa6750.com or inquiry@spa6750.com
www.spa6750.com

OPERATING HOURS: The spa is open daily from 10:00 AM – 11:00 PM

Other treatments:
Wat Po (1 hour and 30 minutes, Php 2,250)
Through deep muscle stretching, application of pressure on energy lines and emphasis on breath, Thai massage offers many of the same benefits as yoga. It is performed comfortably dressed on a mattress on the floor.

De-Stress Foot Reflexology (60 minutes, Php 1,500)
Soothe tired feet with a bath, and a good scrub to remove cracked skin. Followed with acupressure massage applied to zones on the feet that correspond to all parts of the body and organs. This treatment stimulates the body’s own healing and balancing process.

O Pair (2 hours and 30 minutes, Php 5,6250)
Relax and enjoy this personalized treatment in each other’s company in our couples suite. This euphoric experience for two begins with a foot spa of your choice. Immerse and luxuriate in a scented flower bath while enjoying a glass of wine. This sensual interlude concludes with an aromatherapy body massage using Ylang-ylang essential oil known for its aphrodisiac and relaxing qualities.

How to get there:
Spa 6750 is located at the 4th floor of the 6750 building along Ayala Avenue just beside the parking complex of Rustan’s Department Store. Ask the taxi to take you to Ayala Center in Makati.

The Secret Garden’s Secret Salon

Clad in a white blouse and a dainty sock hop dress, Sonya Garcia is a very gracious woman. When she finds out that I’ve never been to her Garden before, she lets out a speck of regret. “Too bad”, she says wryly and we then proceed with the day’s tour. From the lush greenery to the luxurious cottages and the sumptuous organic menu, there’s always something to rave about Sonya’s Garden. Everything can be found in that 1.4-hectare sanctuary, a handful of minutes drive away from the national highway. Years ago, only a select few can visit the garden. I’ve even heard stories about Sonya having to drive some guests away because there just wasn’t enough room for everyone. But the mystery that shrouds Sonya’s Garden has yet to be fully uncovered. And it goes by three words: Sonya’s Pampering Salon.

No hair care, no coiffures here. From the entrance, you take the red brick path that passes by the panaderia and the restaurant. At the end of the path is a quaint little cottage, neatly tucked in the middle of a lovely English garden, adorned by native handicrafts and furnishings that are both eclectic and exotic. Bead curtains hang by the entrance and capiz windows separate the spa rooms from the reception. I reach out for the menu and find myself overwhelmedby the variety of spa services that they offer. I settle for the Magnolia Package – a two-hour treatment that includes a manicure and pedicure, an aromatherapy steam bath and a relaxing full-body massage.

My manicure and pedicure takes place in an open-air sitting room, a perfect setting as I finish my reading of David Sedaris. The foot spa is soothing and delightful. My masseuse, Ruth, uses a tempting mixture of sugar and banana cream to rinse my feet while I sip the most delicious cup of tea I’ve had in years – a sensual blend of warm dalandan juice, basil leaves and honey! Before deciding to take a spa treatment, I become a little hesitant. It is a bright, sunny afternoon, just right for a nice, long stroll in the garden with my Lomo camera. That quickly changes, however, when I am finally escorted to my spa room.

There’s no sign of whirring air-conditioning or piped-in bossa nova music, which is usually a staple in most of the spas I’ve been to. Instead, it’s just this blissful thrill of the Tagaytay breeze while listening to the chanteur’s singing from the wedding reception nearby. If your olfactory nerves get a little lucky, you might just get a whiff of that fragrant mix of herbs and shrubbery from outside the window while you take your pre-massage shower. Truly, the spa is closer to nature than I thought and the shower is definitely something to look out for.

The Sonya’s Signature Massage is the most recommended treatment for first-timers. It combines the best strokes from Swedish, Shiatsu, Thai, and Chinese reflexology to create an intensely soothing full-body massage.

For those who are seeking a more holistic treatment, there’s the Lilac Package that combines a facial, a hair spa, a body scrub and a full body massage.

If you’re feeling a little more adventurous, you should try the spa’s traditional Filipino healing systems, which was only launched last August. From the indigenous hilot (60 minutes, Php 980) to the therapeutic bentosa (60 minutes, Php 1,250), from the stimulating dagdagay (60 minutes, Php 1,000) and to its authentic Filipino facials (40 minutes, Php 650), all of these new treatments make Sonya’s Pampering Salon look like a modern-day Filipino apothecary.

The spa’s 23 therapists are all professionally trained. You can easily consult your therapist about which spa treatment best suits you. As my therapist performs the signature massage on me, she tells me that I have an incredibly bad case of lamig (cold spots). My cold spots are woefully placed near the spine, and whenever my therapist would press them, I would find myself jolting in pain. I distinctly remember my village acupuncturist telling me that lamig near the spinal cord hinders proper breathing and posture.

My therapist, then, recommends me to avail of the bentosa, the hilot technique that burns a wild herb called damong maria inside airtight glass cups placed to various nerve points of the back. While the signature massage does remove the cold spots, the bentosa makes sure that they do not replicate. It’s such a soothing experience that in minutes, I doze off to sleep, with a few snores in between. My therapist tells me that it’s the bentosa’s normal effect, mainly because of the toxins being removed through suction.

It’s always best to schedule your spa treatments one week in advance – especially to avoid the weekend and holiday rush. If you’re coming with a companion, you can check the availability of the two couples’ rooms. Walk-ins are also possible but please do note that the last call for all spa treatments is an hour before closing time (7:00 PM on weekdays, 9:00 PM on weekends and holidays).

What used to be Tagaytay’s best-kept secret is now a must-go for Manila’s weekend vacationers. Sonya’s Garden is a perfect hideaway for those seeking refuge from the hustle and bustle of the concrete jungle. But it’s in Sonya’s Pampering Salon where you can truly relax your jangled nerves and tuck your worries away – even at least for a while.

This art of pampering is actually rooted from Sonya’s philosophy - the Art of Doing Nothing. It only looks like it’s nothing because it’s that simple. The simplicity is wonderfully deceptive. You lie down, close your eyes, feel every sensation you can – the candid closeness to nature, the soothing massage and even, that inexplicably simple cup of warm dalandan tea.

Sonya’s Pampering Salon is all about finding the silence amidst the noise, the poignant amidst the mundane. It’s really those simple things that count. Unfortunately, I realize it just now and, to echo Sonya’s thoughts, too bad.

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

SONYA’S GARDEN
Barangay Buck Estate,
Alfonso, Cavite
(63 917) 532 9097
(63 917) 507 3302
info@sonyasgarden.com
www.sonyasgarden.com

OPERATING HOURS: The spa is open on weekdays from 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM and on weekends its 9:00 AM – 9:00 PM

Make the most out of your spa appointment by enjoying the many other luxuries of
Sonya’s quaint garden:
• Schedule your spa treatment in the late afternoon after enjoying a sumptuous lunch in an English Garden setting. If you can, request for a room that’s on the side of the afternoon sun. Sunrays seeping through the windows complement a warm massage.
• Lounge in one of the many daybeds in scattered across the garden. Read a book, do your sketches, or just do nothing at all. Enjoy the calmness of the outdoors as you prep up for your treatment.
• Grab a bite of cheese hopia from the Panaderia. Your spa treatment won’t be fun if you have a grumpy stomach.
• As nighttime falls, take a relaxing stroll to the cottages. The wonderful scent of the flower beds is excellent aromatherapy.
• Before heading to the restaurant for inner, cap your spa experience by enjoying the magical sight of fireflies at the tree behind the greenhouse.

How to get there:
From SLEX, take the Sta. Rosa exit. Once you reach Tagaytay, make a right towards the direction of Nasugbu, Batangas, passing the Tagaytay Rotonda. Shortly after Splendido and Sunrise Hill, make a right turn on Buck Estate. Sonya’s Garden is at your left, a good two-kilometer drive from the main highway.

Lovingly Filipino

I enter a large garden that looks so familiar and yet so new to me. I feel so at home in this new setting but at the same time, I’m still getting to know the people I have suddenly met here. This is my first visit to Nurture Spa in Pampanga, the place I’m going to call home.

Known as one of the pioneers in the spa industry, Nurture Spa first started in the cool ridges of Tagaytay. Now, they are settling in their new branch in the quant county of Pampanga nestled on the foothills of Mt. Arayat. Why Pampanga? It’s because of how the place exists with nurture and care, a place where people can grow in simplicity and harmony all at the same time, just like the beliefs of Nurture Spa.

Together with their signature treatments, Nurture Spa services new massages and packages with the Kapampangan Touch. The Tumayla Relaxing Massage (60 minutes, Php 1,400) is a traditional Kapampangan massage that uses the soothing melody of a Kapampangan lullaby to ease away stress and tension for ultimate relaxation. Another is the Nurturing Love or Kalusugan ng Pagmamahalan package (2 hours, Php 2,100/ pax or Php 4,200/couple) treats you with their signature Magsing-irog Massage (for couples) using a sultry blend of sandalwood, ylang ylang and lavender essential oils to rekindling passion and encourage intimacy, followed by luxurious foot pampering Pinatubo Foot Spa. Your feet are smoothened using Pinatubo pumice stones, wrapped in banana leaves and massaged in special oils. For singles, it’s the Aruga Whole body massage then the Pinatubo Foot Spa they would pamper you with. For the weary souls the a perfect treat for honeymooners is the Indulgence of Romance or Kasaganaan ng Pag-ibig package (8 hours with accommodations, 10,200) Get to be indulged for one day with your loved one in a series of pampering services to cater him and her. The Mayumi Coconut Body Polish is for the ladies. This gentle exfoliation with essential oils nourishes the skin while eliminating fatigue and exhaustion followed by the Mutya Natural Facial which is packed with vitamins and natural antioxidants leaving the face cleansed. For the gentlemen it’s the Kape Barako Scrub. The treatment’s robust aroma invigorates the senses as much as the skin. The aromatic coffee with special herbs helps stimulate circulation and assists detoxification. The package is finished by an intimate Magsing-irog Massage in a romantic couples room. This package also includes accommodations and a full set lunch for two.

The spa has even brought in their signature Ifugao huts located in sprawling grounds at Abe’s Farm. Each hut has the comforts of home with air-condition and thick mattresses and pillows so by the end of the day you’ll sleep like a baby and wake up refreshed and renewed.

Nurture Spa’s owners, Cathy and Mike Turvill are very hands on with their project. From the spa’s look, location, treatments even to the concoction of their essential oils, their menu’s romanticized Tagalog names and the research on the effects of their treatments, everything is done with personalized care and concern for their guests, just like parents showing unconditional love and nurture to their children. I have been touched personally with their graciousness in taking care of us while visiting their new spa when Ms. Cathy warmly greeted us after an indulging Sese ng Ima head massage (30 minutes, Php 600) that really took our tiredness away. Even if I have just stayed for a little while in the magical healing gardens of the Nurture Spa in Pampanga, I have truly felt the whole heartened experience of being nurtured.

Spa Travel Notes

Nurture Spa
Magalang, Pampanga
(63 45) 865 1930
(63 916) 288 4200
info@nurture.com.ph
www.nurture.com

OPERATING HOURS: Nurture spa is open from 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

Before indulging in to Nurture visit Abe’s Farm for a real Kapampangan experience. Abe’s Farm serves gourmet Kapampangan dishes and delicacies to its visitors. As the former residence of famed writer and artist, Abe Aguilar Cruz, father of celebrated restaurateur, the late Larry J. Cruz, the farm is filled with beautiful and interesting pieces and native touches creating a unique but homey feeling to its visitors. Guests can even stay for a night in one of their native huts located below the main restaurant.

How to get there:
From Manila, take the Angeles Exit on the North Luzon Express (NLEX). Follow the Magalang Road leading to the town plaza then proceed to Barangay Ayala which will take 10 minutes. From Ayala, go past the resort on the left; continue on to Livestock Village where you will see the sign “Abe’s Farm” at the corner.

Royal Opulence at the Lazuli Spa

“On earth there is no heaven, but there are pieces of it.” - Jules Renard

The Lapis Lazuli is one of the most powerful semi-precious stones known to man. Famous for its intense blue hue with specks of brilliant gold, it can be described as the color of the heavens streamed with millions of gleaming stars. It symbolizes well-being, clarity, beauty, regality, as well as emotional and spiritual strength. Valued at the highest worth since ancient times, it is revealed to be the stone of royalty as it was used to transcend its power over to the bearer. In Ancient Egypt, its several pieces of the valued treasure were unearthed from numerous tombs of the Pharaohs most notably the funeral mask of the great King Tutankhamen. Even Cleopatra herself used the stone in its powdered form to color her eyes with streaks of blue and gold for beauty and unparallel splendor. Being a symbol of royalty and wellbeing, it is also the reason why it became the soul of the Lazuli Spa, the premier pampering facility of Marco Polo Davao.

I had the utmost pleasure of experiencing the Lazuli Spa on my trip to Davao and by golly, it was unforgettable. The spa’s two-storey structure is at the right wing of The Deck located at the 4th floor of the Marco Polo Hotel. It faces the hotel’s 25-meter swimming pool as well as Davao’s skyline. As one of Davao’s premier spas, the Lazuli has impressive upscale interiors and facilities that cater to the needs of its guests. Designed with modern stylings and Asian elements, the Lazuli Spa offers a lavish and idyllic sanctuary for those who are looking for a haven in the middle of the city. It has five private treatment rooms, four single rooms and a double suite for couples and friends who want to have their pampering together. What’s impressive about the rooms is how they can be uniquely customized for the guests. The second floor of the spa has a spectacular view of the Zen garden below, perfect for those who are having their foot pampering treatments on the spa’s custom-made king-size couches. Guests are given an extra treat at night when they can get a great view of the swimming pool as it changes colors (yes that’s right!).

The treatment rooms are equipped with high-tech mood settings so guests can have the freedom to choose the colors, music and other settings to suit their mood and taste. For the light and scent settings, I had the option of choosing between six combinations: purple and lavender for power and creativity; aqua and peppermint for freshness which evokes the cool feeling of the wide ocean; the blend of red and eucalyptus for passion and excitement; green and the fragrance of lemongrass for relaxation and rejuvenation; and blue with a touch of mandarin orange for pleasure and serenity. I chose the aqua light setting and the scent of eucalyptus as it reminded me of home. I also had the option of choosing my own music with the spa’s personal Ipods and state-of-the-art sound system. In addition, each room has its own private steam bath facility and ray showers.

As my eyes glided over the spa menu I learned of the different treatments and packages offered by the facility. First, there is the signature spa treatment, A Touch of Lazuli (90 minutes). It is an indulging combination of three massages from eastern, western and deep tissue techniques: Thai Stretching, Hawaiian Lomi Lomi and Reiki. There are also the body scrub treatments: The Aloe Vera Glow (45 minutes, Php 1,100) for hydration of the body and nourishment of the body and the Milk Chocolate Latte Scrub (45 minutes, Php 1,200); the perfect body scrub for chocolate lovers which uses the mixture of Davao’s homegrown coffee, chocolate and milk to provide powerful antioxidants for the body as well as reducing cellulite.

For the absolute spa experience, one mustn’t pass up the Ultimate Spa Perfection Treatment (6 hours,
Php 5,400). It’s described to be an indulgent, uninterrupted, unbelievable blissful spa experience, lined-up with a series of treatments. In the end, I chose the Body Wellness Treatment (90 minutes, Php 1,600) which focuses on relieving the tension and stress of the body. After a hot shower, I literally climbed onto the king size couch for my foot scrub treatment (an option of a foot scrub or body scrub is included in the Body Wellness). My therapist meticulously cleansed and polished my feet until they were as rosy as ever. After the foot spa was the massage I had been eagerly waiting for. The spa uses unscented lotion not only to avoid spoiling the selected scent of the room but also to rehydrate the skin. Soon, I was under the well-trained therapist’s magical spell of pressured touches and repeated long gliding strokes.

Like any other dream, my massage had to end but the spoiling still doesn’t stop. After the treatment, we were given hot cups of Salabat (ginger) tea. With every sip our pampered selves was revitalized. I went back to reality, more refreshed and energetic than ever.

My experience at the Lazuli Spa was truly amazing. I was taken cared of by the staff not only as a guest, but as a queen. From a tired and drained soul, I was revived and rejuvenated by the powers of the Lapiz Lazuli and for the first time in my life, I became royalty.

SPA TRAVEL NOTES

Lazuli Spa
Marco Polo Davao
C.M. Recto Street, Davao City
(63 82) 221 0888
www.marcopolohotels.com

OPERATING HOURS: The spa is open from 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

Other treatments:
The Lazuli Spa offers special romantic spa
packages for couples:
The Wedding Enchantment (2hours, Php 2,200)
An appealing treatment for the newly-weds. The spa staff will assist you on choosing on different
combinations of their favorite spa packages.

A Dreamy Romance (3 hours, Php 5,200)
This delightful escape for two begins with a comforting almond foot spa and a gentle body scrub. A scented flower bath enriched with Epsom salt and coconut milk highlights this pampering treatment. A massage with a special blend of essential oils concludes this wonderful experience. Massage treatments exceeding 60 minutes or any other combination of spa packages entitles to a private relaxing steam bath.

Stay at Davao’s best, the Marco Polo Hotel. As the only 5-star hotel in the province, it caters to local and international guests with its world-class accommodations and up-to-date facilities. Dine at the Polo Bistro which offers savory dishes or spend some time at the Eagles Bar for late night drinks. For the hotel’s special guests, there’s the Continental Club at the 24th and 25th floors which offer superb lodging and additional pampering.

How to get there:
Davao is a main destination in the country being one o f the largest cities in the Philippines. The Francisco Bangoy (Davao) International Airport welcomes daily flights from Manila and Cebu as well as several flights from international airline. The Marco Polo Hotel is just a 25-minute ride to the airport. You can ask for a taxi to take you there or you can ask the hotel to arrange for airport transfers.

The Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo

The Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo is one of the most anticipated celebrations in the country. Held every fourth Sunday of January, it is one of the three biggest festivals in Visayas in honor of the Child Jesus, Santo Niño. Dinagyang, meaning merry-making in the local dialect, traces its roots to when Christianity was introduced to the island of Panay. Ten Bornean Datus gave peace offerings of a Golden Salakot (native hat) and long strands of pearl necklaces to the native Aeta tribes in exchange for their land. Locals of today cover their whole body with black soot, to represent the early Aetas who celebrated their friendship with the Datus through dance.

For one week, locals would dance wildly to the fast beat of the drums while chanting “Viva Santo Niño!” and “Hala Bira!” all over the city. The major events of the celebration consist of a fluvial parade, numerous contests, shows and the most awaited street dancing competitions where hundreds of dance groups from the city compete in this annual contest.

Iloilo is blessed with Baroque churches scattered all over the province. Iloilo is found on the southwest division of Panay Island. The Travel time from Manila via airplane takes an hour. Alternate transportations such as ferries and the nautical highway (RORO) are also available.

Discover the Giant Lanterns of Pampanga

Considered as the home of the giant lanterns, San Fernando City in Pampanga holds the Giant Lantern Festival. It displays the province’s innovative, intricately designed lanterns made of native materials like Capiz shells.

Visitors from all over the country flock to the town of San Fernando to see the giant lanterns paraded along the City Hall during the Christmas season, at around the third week of December.

While traveling two hours along the North Luzon Expressway to the province which is north of Manila, families will enjoy a unique display of parols adorning the homes and streets in the country. The parol or Christmas lantern is a unique and traditional Filipino Christmas decoration.

The art of making these lanterns dates back to the time when the Spanish colonized the Philippines. The original parol was in the shape of a star which symbolizes the Star of Bethlehem that guided the three kings on the night Jesus was born. The star lantern was used in the past to light the way of the people who go to Church during the late night masses. The star lanterns gave the warm light needed during the dark December evenings. Back then, parols were made from simple materials such as bamboo and translucent or Japanese paper.

Today, different kinds of parols line the streets of Pampanga and people from nearby places such as Manila flock to San Fernando City to buy lanterns that are made from sea shells. The use of sea shells instead of plastic or paper to cover the parol make the Christmas lanterns more sturdy and fireproof. The shells that local craftsmen use come from a town called Capiz in the island of Panay in the Visayas region. The shells are widely used for window panes and are also good materials for parols. From the original lantern made of paper, the Capiz parols are now widely available commercially.

Lantern makers in Pampanga, have taken the traditional art of parol-making to a higher level, producing huge lanterns that are intricately designed with amazing, rhythmic lighting. The lanterns made in Pampanga are elaborate and large, some spanning 40 feet. Each giant lantern can include up to 5,000 individual light cells and circuits, and can cost over P300,000 ($7,413). However, there are lanterns assembled that are readily available in the local market at affordable prizes, at around P2, 000 to P3, 000 ($46 to $72), and can last for many years.

From the simple five-pointed star lantern, the parol has evolved into other intricate shapes like a rose, bromeliad, snowflakes and sea urchin among others. They are made from Japanese paper, softdrink straws, wood, plastic, glass, metal and capiz shells and other native materials. Each lantern is a beautiful work of traditional folk art.
The star lanterns of Pampanga have become so large that they now measure up to 18 feet in diameter and are mounted on trucks so that they can be put on parade. These masterpieces take almost an entire year to complete. Each lantern can weigh over 1,000 kilograms and requires at least 50 people to assemble it.

During the Giant Lantern Festival, the beautiful lanterns are paraded, accompanied by marching bands. The colorful lighting designs are synchronized with music, producing a unique and wonderful sound and light show. The Grand Lantern Festival is such a grand parade that the whole city comes out to watch. After midnight mass, there is a presentation ceremony to the maker of the most beautiful lantern.

The San Fernando Giant Lantern Festival originated in 1904 when the beautiful lanterns were only 2 feet in diameter and lighted by candles. Through the years, the tradition of lantern-making grew. In 1928, history records that a lantern-making competition was held in honor of Manuel L. Quezon, the second president of the Philippines.

Since then, the Filipino parol has never failed to uplift the spirit and instill a sense of pride and hope in the Filipino people. It not only brightens Christmas in the Philippines but also serves as an inspiration to Filipino ingenuity and creativity. Visit Pampanga with friends and experience the giant lanterns this Christmas season.

Hospitality at Its Finest: Amuma Spa

Filipinos are known for their warmth and graciousness. We love to entertain our guests even to the point of spoiling them! We give them sumptuous feasts, comfortable accommodations and unending questions of “Gusto mo pa?” (Do you want more?) or “Ano pa gusto mo?” (Anything else?) Ah, the perks of being a Filipino guest! This is the kind of sensation I experienced when I enjoyed the rejuvenating spa treatment of the Amuma Spa at the Maribago Bluewater Resort in Mactan.

For those who are not familiar with the term, Amuma is a Cebuano word meaning “pamper, to spoil; to indulge with every attention and comfort.” It’s the perfect word to describe how this spa sanctuary in Mactan Island treats each of its guests.

The spa is the first thing you would see as you enter the grand resort. It is the center point of the latest wing of the Maribago Bluewater Beach Resort where guests can easily walk to the spa from their suites. The Amuma Spa evokes the Filipino warmth and welcomes with a modern touch because of most of the materials used in the spa are made from native elements like rattan and bamboo. The first floor of the spa facility holds the reception area. What is remarkable about the design of the ground floor was how the facilities are divided by glass walls, which was refreshing to see adding the sense of liberty and tranquility from the inside. On one side was the gym and health club where guests can use for their daily workout regimen. Next door is the hair and beauty salon for those lavish beauty rituals. In the middle of it all is a gorgeous bronze sculpture. I felt it added a delicate yet luxurious touch to the wellness facility. One of the staff even gave us a tidbit about the beautiful artwork. A clue is to see it from the inside looking out towards nature.

After exploring the first floor, the receptionist then introduced us to our masseuse then asked us to change into slippers to prepare us for our treatment. As I was guided upstairs, I couldn’t seem to stop and be mesmerized by the hanging stairs going to the next floor, just one of the interesting pieces of this marvelous facility. It makes you feel your steeping in to another plane of existence. Guests can take their showers before their full body treatments at the locker room. Here, they are given individual lockers for their belongings and other valuables. My masseuse then patiently waited for me as I made my way out and guided me to my assigned spa room.

Amuma has various massage and body care treatments that cater to the preference of the guests. There’s the Amuma Paligo (90 minutes) where one can indulge in a body scrub, then a wrap using generous dozes of virgin coconut oil, lemong grass. Calamansi, and Cebu’s famous mangoes. After the wrap is a soothing hear treatment then finished of with a warm bath with a mixture of bath salts and spices. For couples there’s the Malakas at Maganda (3.5 hours) signature package where the couple undergoes a series of indulging treatments to enhance relaxation and intimacy.

I was scheduled to have the Amuna Hilot which was the spa’s signature massage treatment. What’s the difference from the other hilot massages? Well, Amuma has exclusively made their own style by adding a few traditions to this holistic treatment and I genuinely got to experience them. Uniquely Filipino, the Amuma Hilot incorporated several native rituals to the massage experience. Before we started, the masseuse started to burn some dried elements on a bowl and scattered the scent all over the room. While walking around she started to chant some words in the air as if in prayer to someone. I realized that she was doing the native rituals of the “pausok” which is said to cleanse the space or the atmosphere through medicinal herbs and mineral smoke. The treatment also included the “dasal” and “orasyon” which was a series of chants and spiritual invocations to cleanse the spirit.

As we started on the massage, the masseuse poured on warm Virgin Coconut Oil (all massage oil-based treatments were used with VCO) and with a series of soft and long gliding strokes, I started to experience the pleasure of relaxation and the relief of stress all over my body. I thought the massage and the native rituals were the complete package but then, I saw the masseuse preparing some banana leaves with VCO. She started to heat the pieces of leaves and proceeded to lay some pieces on my back. What I felt was an outburst of energy and release. The leaf added a tinge of intense warmth and uplift as if it was instantly healing the stress I have been carrying all this time. Soon the banana leaves covered several parts of my body with the same rejuvenating heat. The Amuma Hilot is about 90 minutes, however it went by so fast, and suddenly I found myself sipping a hot cup of tea in the relaxation lounge.

What started as simple massage therapy turned into a journey of release and healing. The Amuma Spa at the Maribago Clearwater Beach Resort surely is an outstanding spa with its distinctive Filipino elements fused with modernity and tradition. It truly deserves to be one of the best, with their simple mantra that nothing really compares to that unique Filipino touch.

Spa Notes:

Spa appointments begin at 10:00AM until 12:00MN daily.

The Amuma Spa houses numerous services and facilities to cater the needs of its guests. Apart from its main 2-storey spa compound that has a Hilot Pavilion located at the Amuma Spa Wing as well as a breezy Massage Gazebo by the beach for those who want their pampering treatment by the sea.

Not only does Amuma Spa cater to massage treatments but also special tai-chi lessons, arnis and stretching sessions for guests who want to maximize their itinerary at the resort. Just ask the spa reception for any upcoming activities and they will gladly welcome your slot for the session.

Enjoy stimulating dishes and refreshing drinks at the Amuma Spa Café. Enjoy their healthy meals while lounging by the cool poolside.

Be treated like royalty in the Maribago Bluewater Resort. The staff pleasantly greets you as you go on your way while you enjoy the resorts complete facilities; ideal for those perfect family outings.

MARIBAGO BLUEWATER BEACH RESORT
Buyong Maribago, Mactan Island, Lapu-Lapu City
Tel. no.: (63-32) 232 5411
Website: www.bluewater.com

How to Get There:
The Maribago Bluewater Beach Resort is just a 20-minute ride from the Cebu-Mactan International Airport. You can ask a taxi to drive you there or, as the resort if they can arrange an airport transfer for you.

Back to Nature

The Farm is a medical and wellness resort aiming to make health a way of life, so although it is a beautiful “destination spa”, it is about so much more than pampering spa treatments.

Located in Lipa City in Batangas, a two-hour drive south of Manila, the 48-hectare resort is situated on a former coconut and coffee plantation nestled in the foothills of Mount Malarayat, and boasts of verdant gardens, natural pools, tropical plants, and invigorating fresh air away from our smog-filled capital. Winner of Best Medical Spa of the Year in 2006 from SpaAsia, it notes that majority of its guests come from the rest of Asia, the U.S. and Europe. From thirty something couples, aging Westerners, middle-aged first-timers in the Philippines, to the Hollywood celebrity coming to detox, all seek to benefit from The Farm’s holistic rejuvenation and healing programs. After running the place for close to six years, the owners have now turned over management of the property to Singapore-based Management company Alila, resulting in new packages and an impressive array of treatments (it also dropped the phrase ‘At San Benito’ in its name, which referred to the town and became confusing for visitors), but its mission remains the same, says General Manager Domenick Venditti: to teach people “to simplify your life by going back to nature”. The focus here is to discover the healthy lifestyle and the natural therapies that prevent or treat disease, through supervised spa therapies, vegan cuisine, detox programs, and medical services (such as colon hydrotheraphy and kidney cleansing). Guests stay for at least 14 to 21 days ideally, says Venditti, to get the full effects of the program. There are also 3, 5, and 7-day treatments for those who don’t have the time or inclination to stay, but still want to experience what The Farm has to offer.

Even if you’re a guest on a juice fast or cleansing diet, the accommodations will make you feel you’re at a luxurious tropical resort—with 25 villas scattered around the property, from the rustic Sulu Terrace Suites, with its wood-beamed ceilings and thatched roofs, to the extravagant Master Villas, elegantly appointed bedrooms with teak-covered walls, natural fiber wall to wall carpet and stunning views of your own private garden—albeit without cable TV (reading or communing with nature is preferred). Guests are free to make use of the infinity swimming pool, the secluded heated spring, a dim and cozy library, sun-filled lounges, spacious meditation pavilions and yoga classes. Although longer-term stays merit their attention, it doesn’t mean that a day nature”. visitor cannot experience the wonders of rejuvenation for the mind, body and soul. On our visit, we arrived at 4:00 PM and were led to the spa’s Purification Treatment, touted to aid in elimination of toxins in the body, through the skin. The treatment is composed of a scrub, massage, and wrap, using sea salt with cold pressed virgin coconut oil and lemongrass (known for its blood-cleansing property) applied to the body with the Yin and Yang Rhythmical movement. The masseuse expertly applied crisscrossing short strokes to energetically balance the body, for a stimulating yet relaxing effect. The high mineral content in sea salt wakes up slowed down body processes like metabolism (for weight problems) and cell damage repair (for anti-aging). Salt solution is also known in ancient healing traditions to absorb “negative energy”, so this is highly recommended for stressed out individuals. The massage is unique because the solution is extended to the hair and the face, so that you are enveloped in the soothing solution. I fell into a tranquil nap and emerged after the 90-minute treatment refreshed and truly invigorated, with silky and clean smelling skin and hair. Was it just a coincidence that I felt unusually light and energetic the following week? I’ll have to do more research on that.

The ‘Day at the Farm’ package offers nine combinations of spa treatments, created for people who don’t have the time to stay overnight. Plan for a midmorning arrival and be prepared to spend the next 4 - 5 hours, beginning with a thirty-minute walking tour of the premises, before moving on to your choice of combination of coffee or salt scrubs, therapeutic massages, lulur baths, and afterwards, a delicious five-course vegan dinner to cap your day.

Spa Notes:

The Farm
119 Barangay Tipakan, Batangas
(63 2) 696 3795
info@thefarm.com.ph
www.thefarm.com.ph

OPERATING HOURS: The Farm is open 24 hours. Facilities like the front desk, spa, medical, and restaurant are open only from 6:00 AM - 9:00 PM.

Other treatments:
In addition to therapeutic massages and invigorating scrubs, the spa offers a wide range of foot scrubs, facials, and healing therapies:

Earth Facial (60 minutes, Php 2,800)
This is a facial using a Dead Sea mud mask for re-mineralizing that is based on the teachings of Paracelsus who stated, “all medicine is in the Earth.” The naturally occurring fatty acids and lipids in this mud have powerful therapeutic and aesthetic effects on the skin to rejuvenate, re-mineralize and detoxify.

Kitchen Fresh Facial (60 minutes, Php 2,800)
This natural facial uses only the purest ingredients. Coco-cream, avocado and cornmeal gently clean and exfoliate while the soothing oils and lotions help to regulate and tone the skin, leaving you feeling fresh, and radiating a natural glow. This facial is available only when fresh avocados are in season.

Balinese Boreh Massage (1 hour and 30 minutes, Php 3,600)
This exotic massage comes from the Spice Islands of Indonesia. It is handed down through generations to restore vitality and maintain the body’s natural balance. Compression massage will release the release the wind often trapped in the body before energy lines are cleared and the circulation is boosted. Half of the massage is done dry and then the oil is applied to work deep into the muscle tissue. This complete massage is a powerful way to release stress leaving you uplifted and recharged.

Hampol (1 hour and 30 minutes, Php 3,600)
The Farm’s newest offering it is the healing treatment practiced by hundreds of generations in Northern Visayas based on the belief that plants are created in nature with the purpose to heal people. Using warmed compress with herbs like letlet, kayumanis, and tanglad (lemongrass), followed by massage inspired by Hilot, this combination of herbs also improves blood circulation, headaches, insomnia, arthritis, and bloatedness. It also relieves pregnant women of pelvic muscle tightness.

Living Cuisine:
The vegan restaurant Alive!, one of the first in Asia, was awarded Best Spa Cuisine of the Year in 2007 by SpaAsia, features the creations of young German Chef Felix Schoener, who is back after a year off to travel and study the cuisines around Vietnam, Thailand, and Korea. Schoener aims to perfect the art of Asian cuisine, taking popular dishes like pad thai, laksa, or nasi goreng and recreating them using raw ingredients. For our dinner, we were pleasantly surprised with great-tasting dishes such as Cauliflower Cream Soup with Pickled Onions, Wild Mushroom and Caramelized Onion Quiche with Chives Sour Crème, and for dessert, a Mocha Vanilla Parfait. The cuisine emphasizes the use of locally available foods, which ensures items are fresher, keeps the produce in their natural state longer, producing more flavor and thus removing need for unhealthy dressings and sauces. We also happily discovered they use chocolate here—in its purest form, in unrefined cacao beans from Batangas, which was used the previous night for a yummy chocolate pie. And while you’re here, it can only benefit you to try their signature juices such a Pineapple Fizz (wheatgrass-mint-ginger-honey) and the Liver Energizer (red beet, coconut juice).

How to get there:
First, take the South Luzon Expressway (SLEX) then go out the Batangas-Lucena Exit. Proceed to Lipa City so take the Star Tollway (7.4 km from the SLEX exit). From there, go out the Star Tollway at Tambo exit then turn right going to Lipa City. Proceed to the Y intersection of in front of Robinson’s Department store then remain in the left lane going through the intersection. Continue until reaching the round-about intersection after the SM mall and turn right at the intersection. Continue until reaching Bonifacio Street. From this point onward there are green colored signs indicating the direction to reach The Farm. Advance booking is required. Also pick up can be arranged from anywhere in Metro Manila.

Nurture by Nature

Bumper-to-bumper traffic welcomes you to the suburbs. The expressway is diminished to a mere four-lane avenue as bulldozers, backhoes and excavators litter the center lanes. “Please bear with the inconvenience”, the sign says. There’s another build-up at the tollgates. And after that, it’s another long, slow crawl to the ridges.

Welcome to Tagaytay City. Every Saturday morning, it’s always a mad rush of city dwellers. Oddly enough, despite the unnerving traffic, they flock to Tagaytay to relax, unwind and for a brief respite. No wonder, the city’s local spa industry is thriving – thanks to its pioneer, the seven-year old Nurture Spa Village, a calm spa estate located in the fringes of West Tagaytay City.

The reception area of Nurture Spa, at first sight, has a quintessential Filipino design; it follows the architecture of the ulog, the picture-perfect Ifugao hut. But as I sip the complimentary mint tea, I realize, too, that the place is distinctively Asian. It cohesively fuses the majestic, indigenous bamboo furnishings with touches of Balinese modernism.

The spa menu is a feast for the senses. From soothing massages to hair and scalp nourishments, skin and body treatments to fabulous facials to, even, ancient healing traditions, Nurture Spa Village has every spa treatment imaginable.

Pampering is, indeed, their middle name.

It is a pleasant Saturday afternoon in Tagaytay. The skies are slightly overcast and the breeze is already a little chilly. The weather is perfect for an hour of hilot in one of their famed Ifugao huts. But it seems like I’m not the only person who had the same wonderful idea, I have to wait for a little less than an hour before getting my treatment. Mother Nature, indeed, conspired with me, and with everyone else.

Because there is time to spare, I decide to tour around. At the back of the reception area is the restaurant and the open-air beverage bar with its breathtaking view of the Nurture Garden and the entire spa village. From afar, you can see more ulogs where the treatment areas and overnight accommodations are located. The spa village bends slightly to the East, forming the shape of a peninsula enveloped by the green verdant Tagaytay frontier. It’s a sight not for the faint of heart. It is that romantic.

From the restaurant, a patch of green quietly rolls down the hill, passing through gazebos, fountains and cobblestone walks, sloping all the way to Nurture Garden. Here, many other intimate moments have taken place, from cozy romantic dates to engagement proposals to exchanges of forever. The Garden is flanked by patios where guests waiting for their spa treatment can lounge in comfort. Here, the view is exceptional as it is from the hill; an elevated view of the Garden as the rolling hill stands in tranquil stillness. And if you insist on basking in this natural serenity, you can avail of Paraiso Garden Joys for these special outdoor treatments, ranging from the facial, foot spa and head massage.

After a little less than an hour, I am finally escorted to my Ifugao hut. Each hut, as it turns out, consists of four to five other massage rooms; some of them located in the hut’s basement (they remind me of storm cellars). My treatment, the Hilot Kagalingan (P1200 / 1 hour), as my therapist told me, provides therapeutic wonders; it’s designed to prevent and cure common ailments. It follows a unique combination of strokes that locates the sources of physical imbalances, such as the infamous lamig, and releases them out of the body.

The hilot experience tucks in many little surprises throughout the session. My therapist, for instance, starts off by cleansing and scrubbing my feet with a rough yet soothing mixture of corn and butter. When it is time for me to lie on my stomach, she gives me a sampler of the dagdagay, the indigenous foot massage that uses thin bamboo sticks to stimulate the soles. My favorite is the 15-minute head and shoulder massage that soothes the scalp and the shoulder blades. There’s nothing like feeling very refreshed, while finishing that cupful of mint tea that’s essential to release the toxins.

Gone are the days when the women had spas exclusive to themselves. Nurture Spa Village offers treatments that are tailor-made for the men. For starters, they have the Makisig Gentleman’s Facial, which uses an invigorating green clay mask that cleanses and exfoliates the skin. There’s also the Kagitingan (translated as Valor), a two-hour double treatment that incorporates the Makisig facial with a full-body signature massage. It’s the perfect all-out treatment for the frazzled businessman.

As for coffee aphrodisiacs, you have to try their unique Kape Barako Coffee Scrub. It uses the widely-popular Batangas coffee beans, which are wrapped around the body to stimulate blood circulation while purifying and detoxifying the skin. Nothing compares to the heavenly aroma of coffee while you relax amidst the merry chirping of crickets around. Blissful and brewing indeed.

This intimate attachment with nature is what makes the Nurture Spa experience very special – and the spa knows it is best cherished with a loved one. That’s why they have the Kinahihiligan, spa packages with meals, treatments and accommodations. For the circle of friends, there’s the aptly named, Barkadahan. It consists of a set breakfast, full-set luncheon, dinner, a full-body signature massage and a soothing facial massage. Plus, it comes with an overnight accommodation in your very own private Ifugao hut. It’s the perfect slumber party experience.

For the romantics-at-heart, there’s the Magkasintahan, suitable for couples who are on day trips. It already includes a full-set meal and snacks, a refreshing Mutya Natural Facial and the Magsing-irog Massage, an intimate massage for two in a cozy couples’ room. This couples massage is the most-sought treatment among Nurture Spa’s long list of services.

Whether it’s with your mom, your friends or with a significant other, it really doesn’t matter. What is important is that you share the experience with someone else, the experience of soothing pleasure and comfort as you intimately commune with nature’s secluded wonders.

There’s no need to explain why it takes quite an effort to go to the Nurture Spa Village.

Going there is a unique experience. Being there is another, and a blissful one at that.

Spa Notes:

Romance is in the Air
Nurture Spa Village makes the perfect backdrop for all kinds of romantic rendezvous and setting that romantic feel can start as soon as you hop on to your car.

• To set the romantic groove right away, pop in Norah Jones’ Come Away with Me, Sade’s Lovers Rock, Marvin Gaye’s Let’s Get It On or even Sting’s Fields of Gold into your CD player or iPod playlist.
• Before going to Nurture Spa Village, take a sidetrip to the Taj of Tagaytay (8 kms from Tagaytay Rotonda) for an intimate Indian-Mediterranean breakfast, offering an alternative breathtaking view of the Taal Lake.
• Head back to the direction of the city proper and convince your significant other for a cozy, warm cup of coffee in Bag of Beans. Take your pick: Barako or drip coffee, single-serve or bottomless.

Getting There
Nurture Spa Village is a 1 ½ to 2 hours drive away from Manila. From SLEX, take Sta. Rosa exit. Upon reaching to Tagaytay, turn right to the direction of the Tagaytay Rotonda. When you reach the area of Starbucks and Pancake House, make a left to Magallanes Drive. Follow the green signs leading to the spa complex in Brgy. Maitim II.

You may contact Nurture Spa via mobile (63 918) 8888SPA, landline (63 2) 838 1930 / 839 2196. You may also visit their website www.nurture.com.ph.

Lightness of Being

Within the first moment of floating, I was asked that all the worries I had before coming to the treatment, I leave behind. “I want to let you know that you don’t need them anymore.” These words, spoken softly and gently by Karen Reina, director and owner of Mandala Spa & Villas, signaled the beginning of my Watsu experience. Watsu is a treatment you can book a year in advance, because nothing, not even the condition of pregnancy, should hold you back from keeping this appointment. Ideal for everyone – the very young, adolescent, the elderly, pregnant, athletes and those recuperating from injuries or suffering from stress – the benefits are various and sometimes personal and heady. What is Watsu good for? A variety of orthopedic conditions. Let’s face it, most of us will suffer from a bit of back pain now and then, and whether we know it or not, our bodies long for a gentle spinal stretch.

It was just after four in the afternoon when I disrobed from my airy cotton Mandala sarong, and stepped into the heated pool swirling with fuchsia- colored tropical blooms. The sun considerately tucked herself away to avoid being directly on my face during the treatment. Karen, certified Watsu therapist and Reiki Master-Teacher who has trained two other therapists in Watsu therapy at Mandala, explained which places of my body would be held or supported – the rest of me would lie free in the water. I glazed over these details, just anticipating the mystery of this highly recommended “water-shiatsu” massage. Watsu, developed in the US, is still quite new to Asia and the Philippines, and one for which Mandala is well-known. It is also one of their by-appointment-only treatments (this is because it takes 2 hours to heat the pool).

Floating like a flower
Karen proceeded to put my leg wraps on (carefully measured to render me weightless once immersed), and then I surrendered into her arms, into the water, submerged to ear-level and floating like a flower. And what a delicious, serendipitous effect: I could not hear a thing! Not a bubble or ripple. Even the flower petals that brushed me while swirling did not make a sound. It was a sublime combination: sensory suppression + heightened sensory sensitivity. This combination did not last long though; it is said that within 15 minutes, muscles can go into a deeper place of relaxation, sensing that they no longer need to support the body.

The body is most in balance in water, they say. The feeling of ‘being out of gravity’ is certainly unique. Many liken the experience of Watsu and other water-based spa therapies to ‘being in a mother’s womb’. Since I cannot remember this feeling, it is not what immediately came to mind – although I confess I did wonder if this is what a baby feels like swimming around in there... wow.

Instant Gratification
The effects of Watsu are not guaranteed, and each person may experience it differently. For some,
it may be emotionally clearing, for others, spiritually inspiring, and yet for others, they achieve complete physical relaxation as they have never before experienced from traditional back, stomach, or side-lying massages. For me, I keep wondering if what I experienced was the feeling one gets having entered and settled into a quasi-meditative state… For an extended moment, I felt nothing, other than wholly relaxed, detached from the world outside... And the beautiful thing is, I wasn’t even trying. I imagine meditation-seekers expend greater amounts of energy, focus, and time towards attaining a similar bliss.

Natural High
Fifty minutes passed like nothing. Afterwards, I felt mildly intoxicated...I am guessing it was the elixir of life. The same feeling had entered my consciousness during the moments of my treatment when my limbs, softly nudged into a stretch, would bring my ears above the water surface to hear the sounds of nature surrounding. Like a spiritual song sung at the end of a journey, in the minutes after the treatment ended, it was the chirping of the birds, the rustling of leaves, the warm breeze and clean air filling up my lungs that supported me in offering my silent gratitude to Karen Reina. It was a most personally enchanting experience. I’d like to think she heard my silent thank you. We talked a little afterwards, still in the pool, about the looming indigenous trees around us, those from her native Cebu, the fruit trees she planted in the 1980s, our common love of nature. I asked about my body and muscles, and learned that my spine was stiff, but that it relaxed quite a bit towards the end of the session. (Long hours sitting with laptop in tow would be a reliable culprit.)

Lightness of Being
It really wasn’t until after the treatment that I was convinced that a great element of trust is required between watsu therapist and client, as, apart from the limited chatting done on our way up to the watsu pavilion, we are strangers, about to let our body be moved and held within the body of the other. Rather intimate-sounding, yes, but so freeing at the same time. The feeling is nurturing – of being held, and being free… the best parent there could be! And there seems to be an aura of trust at Mandala ... Perhaps it is the simplicity, the tranquil environs. Or is it the quiet confidence of well-trained staff and therapists?

I felt light and easy walking back to the reception from where I showered and changed, put my wet swimsuit into a cinnamon bark bag, and headed upstairs to Prana (Mandala’s all- vegetarian restaurant with a view) for a pre-dinner side salad and a frothy, fresh-pressed apple juice. (Fresh tropical fruit shakes, Philippine iced Salabat, and Indian spiced tea are just a few of the many other beverage options - and I haven’t mentioned the entrees or desserts!) Prana, meaning “life force”, is always available for a pre-treatment snack or a lunch or dinner afterwards. Guests staying at the villas also enjoy buffet breakfasts here which I can say are wonderful and filling – muffins are homemade and multiple varieties appear each morning!

Priceless
If only for a short while, I felt fortunate for the gift of mind-body-spirit weightlessness and instant meditation. I was satiated with contentment thereafter.

Note: After your treatment, your Watsu therapist will be available to listen and discuss, or talk through any breakthroughs you may have experienced as a result of the treatment - as you like. You may also
wish to combine watsu with another complementary treatment, according to your specific condition(s); ask the reception staff for advice and suggestions when making your appointment – they are gracious,
capable and most willing to help. Non-swimmers are welcome to discover Watsu: at no time is your
head submerged, and there is no need to swim.

Spa Notes:

Mandala Spa and Villas
Boracay Island, Malay Aklan
(63 36) 288 5857
reservations@mandalaspa.com
www.mandalaspa.com

OPERATING HOURS: Mandala Spa is open daily from 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

2008 World Travel Award Winner: The Philippines’ Leading Spa Resort
Powdery white sand beaches, true blue waters, charm and convenience like no other... these are not the only things that attract visitors to the island of Boracay... Nestled like a secret off Boracay’s main road, Mandala Spa & Villas’ canopied pathway of leafy green foliage welcomes you to a place to soothe your mind and open your heart to an appreciation of self - as you are. “Experience Yourself” is an inviting slogan for the most discerning spa-goer – and Asia and the world’s most well-traveled spa surfers have time and again awarded Mandala Spa & Villas for having the Best Holistic Treatments such as the creative, native Hilot Trilogy (1 hour and 45 minutes, Php 3,850), the exotic Shodhana Karma (2 hours and 30 minutes, Php 5,600), and for creating the Philippines’ Best Destination Spa and Boracay’s Most Outstanding Establishment (to name a few). The 2.5 hectare private estate is a garden haven of tranquility, hearkening back to early-day Boracay (before the trikes, vans and commerce). Fanning out from the ‘Mandala’ shaped reception pavilion with wooden flooring and airy vaulted ceiling are verdant pathways that beckon with bright-colored ginger flower blooms, birds of paradise, and other tropical flora. The yoga shala, the watsu pavilion, the day spa and guest villas are dispersed across the property lending privacy and intimacy to any treatment or overnight stay. Karen Reina, director & owner, Mo-Ching Yip, resident spa consultant and yoga instructor, and the entire staff at Mandala Spa & Villas have developed a world-class destination and experience. Their dedication to wellness and creating positive memories are the ‘prana’ of this place.

How to get there :
The tropical spa haven of Mandala Spa & Villas is nestled like a secret off the main road on the island of Boracay. Fly from Manila or Cebu to Boracay (Caticlan or Kalibo airports). Mandala Spa & Villas can arrange airport & boat transfers for guests of the villas. Once on the island, ask a tricycle driver to take you to Mandala Spa in Station 3. Alternatively, walk to Station 3 along the White Beach until you reach Yasuragi (Japanese restaurant); turn left up the road path, and you will come to the main road. Turn left and you will find the tree-lined pathway leading to the spa & villas.

Le Spa at the Sofitel Philippine Plaza

There should be a new term invented for massage and spa addicts like myself – spa-sionnista, perhaps, is a fitting moniker. Every spa-sionnista remembers exactly when she had her last massage and where, have her own internal rating system, can recommend any spa depending on treatment and budget, and of course, have a built-in radar for the hottest, newest spas in the metro.

Being a card-carrying member of this group, my spider senses (or should that be “spa”-der senses?) tingled when I heard about Le Spa.

Le Spa at Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila has opened its doors last August 28, 2008. When I come to check it out, Le Spa isn’t even a week old. As I enter this haven of luxurious relaxation, I become giddy with excitement. Muted warm lighting and the scent of frangipani greet me at Le Spa’s doors. I feel like Charlie in the Chocolate Factory, except here, they serve me fresh fruit, hot mango tea and a lemongrass-infused chilled towel.

Spa Manager, Marissa Borlongan, tells me that at Le Spa, they practice the French Protocol. Since this is the first time I’ve heard of it, I ask her what that meant. Simply put, it means that Le Spa follows a strict code of comfort for clients – no shortcuts. Also worthy to note, Le Spa is operational twenty-four hours a day.

There are nine private suites at Le Spa – all of them roomy and each equipped with its own iPod and state of the art speakers. That’s right- each client can choose his or her own background music while having their treatment. (According to the pre-selected music menu, Nat King Cole and Sting are popular relaxation staples.) Two out of the nine suites are different from the regular private suites– the couples’ suite and the cabin suite. Le Spa’s private suites are made for one person to enjoy, while the couples’ suite is obviously made for honeymooners. Le Spa’s regular private suites are roomy and luxurious as they are, but their cabin suite is like a hotel room equipped with its own steam room, ultra-high tech bathtub (which the other private suites do not have) and a balcony overlooking Manila Bay. I would have moved in if I could.

Le Spa has not one, but seven signature massage treatments. All these are available in all Le Spa branches found in every Sofitel Hotel around the world. In addition to those, Le Spa’s Manila branch also offers five unique Filipino-themed massages.

There’s the Filipino Pride (an hour-long massage to re-energize the body using a combination of Swedish, Shiatsu, Thai and reflexology massages); Mayon Wrapsody (a detoxifying treatment that combines a calamansi and papaya body scrub with a volcano clay body wrap); Hilot Secret (which many non-Filipino visitors often go for), the Pito-Pito Balance (a restorative treatment using seven Filipino herbs) and the Mango Delight (a moisturizing body scrub).

Decisions, decisions…four soothing massages and three stimulating massages! With each signature treatment sounding more exotic and intriguing than the last, it takes me a while before I finally pick one.

Do I go for the Marrakech Sweetness, a Moroccan massage with fresh mint, Green tea exfoliation with wide, sweeping hand movements?

Or do I go for the Brazil Colours – a detoxifying treatment with bamboo sticks? I am told that this treatment is very popular and it certainly sounds very sexy.

It is the Kerala’s Smile that grabs me at last. A treatment lasting an hour and thirty minutes, the massage eliminates muscular tension, fatigue, body heat and digestion problems. It also helps improve sleep quality and is capped by a foot and hand massage using something called a Kansu bowl.

Before any treatment, one has the option to choose the scent of essential oil used during the massage.

The choices include the following: a relaxing blend of lavender and sweet orange, a soothing mixture of tea tree and eucalyptus, a revitalizing scent of rose and geranium, or the sensuality of the slimming lemongrass and pepper.

I choose the scent of sweet orange mingled with lavender.

Lynn, my therapist ushers me to Le Spa’s wet area. Time for le Jacuzzi! It isn’t long before I am neck-deep in relaxing jets of water. I like my jets strong and powerful, and Le Spa’s Jacuzzi does not disappoint.

Inside my suite, I opt for some world music, eschewing Sting and Nat King Cole for the moment. Nothing says spa to me than hearing some tribal chanting in the background.

Every signature treatment at Le Spa starts off with a foot massage. It’s sort of like a preview for the main event. My particular preview puts me in a state of bliss, as the scent of lavender and sweet orange wafts over me.

Some people find it annoying when they fall asleep in the middle of their massages. I’ve heard friends say that they were too unconscious to really enjoy their treatments. The opposite is true for me. My rule of thumb when it comes to any massage – if I fall asleep at some point, then it’s all good. Add bonus points if it happens before the therapist touches my scalp, which is what happened in this case.

I wake up in time to experience the mysterious Kansu bowl being rubbed over my feet. I discover that it is a small cymbal shaped bowl rubbed on the soles of one’s feet and it feels amazing. After my massage, I am served some Manila mango tea, and a small bowl of fresh melon, cantaloupe and watermelon skewers dipped in yogurt.

Le Spa may be the metro’s youngest luxury spa, but it is definitely one of Manila’s finest. The service is meticulous and personal. The treatments offer a variety of local and international signature massages. Plus, from the moment you step into Le Spa – you are treated like royalty.

My voice just a wee bit hoarse from my massage-induced slumber and my head emptied of all stressful thoughts, I lounge around my beautiful suite in a big fluffy robe, wishing I didn’t have to make two train rides back to my real life. I want to stay and enjoy being next door to Manila Bay while having my feet rubbed with a Kansu bowl forever and happily ever after.

Spa Notes:

Getting There, Guerilla-style
Getting to Le Spa is worth it, even if it means having to commute. If you’re coming from the Northern part of Metro Manila (Central Business District of Ortigas included) it’s best to take the MRT, get off at the Taft Station and take the connecting LRT from there. Get off at the Vito Cruz Station, cross the street and look for the orange shuttle jeepneys passing through CCP. Get off at Sofitel.

Fare from North Avenue MRT Station to Taft MRT Station: Php 15
Fare from Edsa LRT Station to Vito Cruz LRT Station: Php 12
Fare for Shuttle to Sofitel: Php 8.50

Or, you could take the cab. Depending on where you get on, the meter (plus ten pesos) could ring up around Php150 and up.

Le Tips for Le Spa
Le Spa charges by the hour, so the prices of the treatments are not listed on the treatment menu. Regardless of the treatment selected, the prices are as follows:

1 hour massage – Php3, 439.10
1 hour and a half massage – Php5,158.65
2 hour Rituals (combination of one signature massage and bath treatment)
– Php6, 210 (plus 10% service charge)
3 hour Rituals (combination of one signature massage and/ or facial treatment)
– Php9, 365 (plus 10% service charge)

Recommended Signature Treatments at Le Spa
Hilot Secret (1 hour, 30 minutes) – Experience a truly Filipino massage that uses ancient and traditional massage techniques to relax the mind and body. This treatment is enhanced by the richness of virgin coconut oil and the heat of aromatic banana leaves.

Kerala’s Smile – (1 hour, 30 minutes) – An Indian-inspired treatment, Kerala’s Smile makes use of Kansu bowls over one’s hands and feet to restore harmony in the body.

Le Spa at Sofitel is located at the lower ground floor of the Sofitel Philippine Plaza Manila, CCP Complex, Roxas Blvd, Pasay City, Metro Manila, Philippines
(63 2) 551 5555

Rendezvous Lasema: Spa from Seoul

One of my refrigerator magnets reads: “PEACE. It does not merely mean to be in a place where there is no noise, no trouble or hard work. It means to be in the midst of those things and still be calm in your heart.”

I have recently discovered the soul of Seoul located in the heart of the cosmopolitan frenzy. This is my sanctuary in the city –a special oasis of tranquility where a journey to the center of yourself is a priceless treasure. In the daily grind of this rat race, treat yourself to Lasema Spa--- the first authentic family oriented Korean spa utilizing jade, considered as diamonds to the Chinese. Savour the traditional Korean spa treatments right here in the Makati Golf Club complex located on Malugay Street.

Open 24 hours daily , Lasema is a world of its own where each step you make will be one of astonishment and wonder. Indulge in their spacious wet area where Jacuzzi baths brimming with green tea , ginseng pools, and a jade steamroom which brings relief and cure to your weary body. Precious crystals adorn the ceiling as the hot steam with the fragrance of authentic Korean herbs gently pierces through your being. Take the icy plunge in the cold pool before having a exfoliating bath scrub of milk crystals and salt. You will feel like Alice in Wonderland as you magically enter into the jil jing bang. Here, you are ushered into a world of Korean culture reminiscent of the very popular Korean telenovelas that you look forward to. Precious and semi-precious stones like amethyst, jade, sapphire, topaz used for their healing properties abound. Exquisite gemstone therapy, uniquely heals the body ,mind and soul. Jade strengthens the bladder and eyes, works against arthritis and stimulates the immune system. Amethyst calms the nerves and gives inner peace. Sapphires strengthens the eyes, lowers blood pressure while topaz protects the heart, helps in blood circulation, aids the lungs, boosts your immune system and ensures that oxygen is distributed in the body.

Three very unique honey bee comb shaped dome structures which are actually hot saunas provide a misen-scene backdrop of a traditional Korean village. These charming dome structures are sanctuaries of wellness that utilize thermal therapy, an age old tradition being practiced in Korea, Japan and many European countries. The 3 dry saunas are made of dome clay a healing mud from volcanoes that stimulates blood circulation and increases metabolism, salt and charcoal sauna made of salt crystals and Hwangto know for its detoxifying properties. Think of how we usually place charcoal in our refrigerators to remove toxins and odors, the charcoal cleanses the body of such toxins and impurities. The oak and clay sauna made of oakwood and hwangto have been proven to intensify the body’s curing process. My favorite room is the one with a temperature of -11 degrees where real snow abounds. Enter here for that cooling down, or frozen delight experience where you are tired muscles and tissues recover from fatigue and stress. In this ice room, stare at the ceiling peppered with real amethyst, topaz, sapphires and other valuable stones.

Another highlight is the restaurant named “Jewel In the Palace” about delightful cuisine and creative cooking. Traditional korean dishes like chapchae, bulgogi and hearty soups are served at very affordable prices. A snack bar also serves Korean beverages and sports drinks as well as noodles and sweet bean with crushed mice and milk dessert.

I close my eyes and relish such priceless luxury. Peace and tranquility in the heart of the city—what more can one aspire for?

Spa Notes:

LASEMA SPA
Lasema Plaza
7232 Malugay Street,
Barangay Bel-Air II,
Makati City
(63 2) 830 2222 local 108
mgc.lasema@gmail.com
www.lasema.com.ph

OPERATING HOURS: The Lasema Spa is open 24 hours, 7 days a week.

Other treatments:
Milk Bath Scrub (Php 800)
Salt Glow Scrub (Php 700)
Aromatherapy with Reflex (Php 900)
Indian Massage (Php 650)
Tandem Massage (1,450)

Lasema also has a sleeping area available with a maximum stay of 12 hours:
Weekdays:
Day Rate: Php 450
Night Rate: Php 500
Weekends:
Day Rate Php 500
Night Rate: Php 550

How to get there:
The Lasema Spa is located right beside the Makati Golf Club. Just ask the taxi to take you to Barangay Bel-Air II.

Regal Pampering in a Spa Kingdom

“Welcome to Bohol, the Land of the Chocolate Hills,” our tour guide confidently sings to us as we take our seats inside the van that will take us on a countryside tour around one of the Philippines’ top destinations. Yes, this province is known for the Chocolate Hills. But towards the end of my blissful weekend in Bohol, I learn that aside from its famous landmarks and glorious sights, it is also a place for absolute pleasure and luxurious pampering.

Staying at an upscale resort definitely has its advantages. Offering the most exclusive accommodations in Bohol, the Eskaya Beach Resort also houses the best spa in the area. And I couldn’t be luckier because after hours of traveling from one town to the next and climbing hundreds of steps to catch a breathtaking view of the hills, every muscle in my body was screaming, “Spa! Spa! Spa!”

Having our own pool and deck with a couple of lounge chairs overlooking the vast Bohol Sea, I wouldn’t have complained if I had my massage right there at our villa, but as I am greeted at the entrance to the Handuraw Spa Kingdom, I see that even our posh balai pales in comparison to this beautiful place that was designed to give me the kind of pampering I am so ready for. As other tourists party the night away on Alona Beach in Panglao Island, I step into a zone of calm and relaxation.

After a refreshing bath under the rainshower, I meet my therapist in one of the Handuraw Spa’s treatment rooms. Three people can have their massage at the same time in this room which is surrounded with nothing but impressive elements and facilities that add to the whole calming feel of the spa. I’m sure this place looks striking during the day as the room opens out to the ocean and to a garden that looks as if it belongs to a princess. But at night, it is simply magical. Outside, the lit up pool, small waterfall and jacuzzi invite you for a dip under the moonlit sky. I almost give in, but I desperately need that massage.

Handuraw Spa has two huge treatment rooms; if you don’t want to share the space with anyone else, be sure to book your treatment in advance. Tonight, I have one room all to myself. My therapist ushers me to a comfortable chair and gives me a 30-minute head and shoulder massage. I close my eyes and allow the soothing music being played in the background to take me to serenity. Before I know it, I am all prepped for the real deal.

The spa has a whole menu of treatments that are designed to meet the every need of your body. Each treatment is categorized so you won’t have a hard time choosing a package that will best suit you. Two of the most luxurious treatments, both lasting four hours, fall under Handuraw Reverie. Paghumpay, which means restore, starts with a foot ritual followed by a steam or sauna, Artemis scrub (which uses dead sea and tropical salts to exfoliate the skin and moisturize it back to a healthy glow), Malumo mud wrap (which uses dead sea mud to draw out toxins from your skin), Pang’Ayo herbal soak (where traditional aromatic plants unleash their potent magic to ease your body of weariness) and Hilot Kaayo massage (which uses the traditional massage practiced by Filipinos through the years to heal common ailments). Gugma, meaning love, is another Handuraw Reverie treatment. Perfect for honeymooners, this package pampers romantic couples with a foot ritual, steam or sauna, Artemis scrub, Tsokolate Bohol wrap (which combines Philippine chocolate and coconut milk to moisturize the skin), Gakus Lover’s Delight soak (which sets the mood for love in a couple’s bath filled with rose petals and skin pampering milk) and Kadait full body massage (which combines a nurturing body massage with music therapy to balance the mind, body and spirit).

With every muscle in my body begging to be kneaded, I go for the Kadait full body massage. My therapist applies fragrant essential oils to my body and works her magic using a unique fusion of Western and Asian massage techniques. I let out a sigh. Handuraw… to reminisce. With every skillful stroke, I fall deeper into a place of happy memories and heavenly bliss.

90 minutes pass. I wake up from my trance and am transported back to reality. I hear the relaxing music and the steady, quiet rush of water. I lay still for a moment more, trying to get in touch with my being. My senses are in harmony and I feel restored to wellness. I change into my clothes, resigning to the fact that my healing journey at the Eskaya Beach Resort has ended. I step back into the real world which isn’t so bad. The moon illuminates the sky and soft lights line the garden path leading to our villa.

“Welcome to Bohol, the Land of the Chocolate Hills,” our guide’s song once again plays inside my head. The Handuraw Spa staff should as well sing to their guests. “Welcome to Bohol. Welcome to Spa paradise.”

Spa Notes

The Kahimsog Therapy is Handuraw Spa’s signature massage. Wonderfully relaxing, this massage uses medicinal leaves warmed in coconut oil to release imbalances in your body.

The Handuraw Spa Kingdom treatments:

Handuraw Reverie (4 hours)
Paghumpay (restore) Php 12,000 (single) Php 18,000 (couple)
Gugma (love) Php 18,000 (couple)

Handuraw Dreams (3 hours)
Kinabuhi (life) Php 8,000 (single) Php 14,000 (couple)
Kalipay (gladness) Php 8,000 (single) Php 14,000 (couple)

Body Massage (90 minutes)
Signature Kahimsog Therapy Php 4,200
Kadait Full Body Massage Php 4,200
Hilot Kaayo Php 4,200
Kagahum (120 minutes) Php 5,000

European Facials
Biodroga Effective Eye Zone Treatment Php 2,800
Biodroga Men’s Vitality Treatment Php 3,900
Biodroga Golden Caviar Treatment Php 4,300
Biodroga Anti-Time Facial Php 4,300

Tropical Scrubs (60 minutes) Php 2,200

Natural Body Cocoons (60 minutes) Php 3,500

Pampering Soaks (30 minutes) Php 3,500

Tropical Facials (60 minutes) Php 3,200

Handuraw Spa Kingdom
Eskaya Beach Resort and Spa
Brgy. Tawala, Panglao, Bohol
(63 38) 502 9516

Manila Office
Rm. 301, Grace Bldg., Ortigas Ave., Greenhills, San Juan
(63 2) 727 4926 / 727 4927
www.eskayabeach.com

Cafe Adriatico

Before the days of the big malls and shopping complex, Malate, Manila was the place to go and spend the day out to stroll along the parks and fairs of the city square. Different establishments line up the streets crowded with the different members of society: the elites, the socialites, the businessmen, the artists and so on; and Café Adriatico Premier was the place to.

Café Adriatico is a place decorated with the old Manila charm – rustic interiors, antique pieces for furniture, and the many memorabilias, pictures and posters hanging on its walls.

Guests are not only mesmerized by its cozy interiors, they also fall in love with the traditional dishes served in the restaurant. Café Adriatico offers lean versions of Spanish cuisine from the delicious Callos (tripe and in thick tomato sauce) to their creamy Lengua Estofada (ox tongue in mushroom sauce) and Filipino favorites like Bistek Tagalog (thin slices of beef cooked in soy sauce pepper and onions) and Sinigang na Bangus (Milk Fish Stew in Miso Soup). They also serve international dishes like Hainanese Chicken Rice, Fillet Mignon, Chicken a la Kiev, plus steaks, pastas and sausages. The café also serves various drinks—one is the most popular Tsokolate Eh!, a thick chocolate drink perfect for that cold night together with good friends.

Café Adriatico is located at 1790 M. Adriatico Street in Manila. For reservations, you may call (63 2) 525 2509.

Macahambus Adventure Park

Macahambus Adventure Park is a must-experience stop, and its not called an “adventure park” for nothing.

Don’t be fooled by its roadside location, because just beyond the road from where you step out of the jeep that drops you off, is one of the most breathtaking gorges in the area. It’s hard to imagine that a spot like this is just 10 minutes from the airport.

Chances are you’ve heard people talk about a “canopy walk” before, and it’s not hard to imagine what it looks like: a network of rope and cable bridges set up high among the treetops that are traversed much like a tightrope. But what you can’t imagine is what it feels like to strap on a harness and step out onto 150 meters of air with nothing but a 1-inch cable beneath your feet.

Another exciting activity on their list is the zip line. The gorge itself is a dizzying 492 feet deep by 400 feet across and is home to some of the more exotic flora and fauna in the area. It also provides access to an underground network of caves that can also be explored. After you’re done hyperventilating and using all your concentration to keep your knees from trembling, once up on the sky bridge, an amazing feeling of freedom overtakes you. Hovering above this majestic gorge filled with the sights, sounds and smells of the great outdoors, you can’t help but feel at one with nature.

It takes a good 30-minutes to traverse the network of sky bridges that connect the various lookout points in the canopy. Don’t forget your camera! In contrast, the 120 meter long zip line from the last lookout point back to where you started from takes only seconds…or about the length of one long exhilarating scream as you zoom over the width of the gorge back to solid ground in high-flying style.

For the explorers out there, Macahambus also provides spelunking tours. For adventurers who want to know more about the history of the province, you can take a turn to the Macahambus Cave which was the site of a victorious battle fought in the early 1900’s during the Philippine-American War.

Get ready for an adventure like no other and experience the great activities at the Macahambus Adventure Park in Cagayan de Oro. For inquiries you may contact them at (63 88) 856 3972 or check their website at www.cdorafting-map.com/macahambus/index.html.

Experience Jungle Environmental Survival Training & Jungle Joe’s

When you think of the Subic jungle, what comes to your mind? Lush thick plantations crawling with wild tropical animals will surely pop into your head. But within the developing grounds of the Subic Bay Metropolitan Authority, come new jungle explorations filled with fun and learning; perfect for family trips and weekend getaways. From the deep jungles of Subic come two exciting places ready to lure you into the wild. Learn from the unique and exciting Subic Jungle Environment Survival Training (JEST) Camp and experience first-hand the thrill of living in the Philippine jungle. For the kids and the kids at heart, the activity-filled theme park of Jungle Joe’s will entertain you with delight.

The Subic JEST camp experience is perfect for those who want to explore and know more about the wilderness of the Subic jungle. The instructors who come from the Aeta Tribe, experts on this wild environment, gave survival training lessons and exercises to the US Special Forces and Navy Seals. The JEST camp includes a trek where the instructor will teach you to distinguish the different plants in the area and show you how you can get potable water in the forest. They will also teach you how you can cook your food using the basic materials found in the jungle, particularly the bamboo. Tours lengths may vary depending on the visitor’s level of training: from easy, moderate to difficult trials. Visitors can also have the option to have an overnight stay in the jungle with the Aeta Tribe for a more experiential trip.

For a much more modern and kid-friendly wilderness, visit Jungle Joe’s world located in the Subic Freeport Zone. At Jungle Joe’s, you will never run out of activity options. Apart from the novelty shops and kiddie rides, they also have the Indy 500 Racer which gives visitors the chance to ride the racetrack in small roller race cars and a Playhouse Theater with a 1950’s theme. Your kids will have a blast eating popcorn and other treats and comfortably seated on bean bags while watching there favorite movie. At the Winter Wonderland, everyday is Christmas Day. See the elves working merrily on Christmas toys. You can even have a picture taking with Santa Claus in the middle of the year! Who says there can’t be a white Christmas in the Philippines?

Jungle Joes’s also has a Paintball Course for those high-powered paintball tournaments. They also have a Train Ride Adventure around the animal park to see exciting animals living in the jungle.

With the Subic JEST Camp Experience and Jungle Joe’s, you and your family will surely enjoy a wild Subic weekend experience!

The Northern Isles

I was excited to go to Batanes, I had heard so much about it. Its remoteness was half the attraction and then there were the stories of people getting stranded on the islands because of cancelled flights due to bad weather. Well, nothing worthwhile ever came easy and so I was ready for the worst. Raingear was packed, my bags were water proofed and I brought my special bombproof (i.e. especially protective) camera bag with me because of what Mother Nature might throw my way. It turned out, mother nature threw me a curve ball.

Instead of the bumpy ride and landing to Batanes, the flight was comfortable and the landing soft. Instead of the stormy weather and sideway rain I was expecting, I stepped out into a perfectly sunny day with puffy white clouds dotting an otherwise perfectly blue sky.

The Myths of Batanes
Stories I heard of Batanes always involved rain and stormy weather, a hardy people that survived whatever nature threw at them, and the famous stone homes made to withstand the test of time. Today’s Batanes has less of the rain and stormy weather. As a matter of fact, the manager at our hotel can’t recall the last time a flight was cancelled because of bad weather or when the last storm ran through town. The natives, or Ivatans as they are known, however are always ready with a smile as well as being hardy, and the stone homes remain. Despite its remoteness, the town of Basco (capital of Batanes) has grown. Instead of just a couple of jeepneys plying the dirt roads throughout the island, you now also have motorcycles, vans and tricycles navigating well-paved roads. Hotels and Inns have also increased in number whereas before your only accommodation choices may have been city hall or the local school. Despite this growth, the town of Basco remains quaint. Our walk around town was a very quiet one. The odd jeep would pass us every now and then and sometimes we’d bump into Ivatan children on their way to the beach. The major attraction at the time was a small softball game being played in the central field with a few onlookers spectating. Like many coastal towns, the action is at the pier and even here action is a strong term to use. Local fishermen repair boats and nets while others wait for the next ferry to arrive. A quick walk on the black beach in front of our hotel was our first introduction to the sea. In the distance you can see the waves break violently on the rocks of a craggy cliff side and even on the soft and smooth beach you can feel the sea tug at your feet as the current retreats to deeper waters. If there’s anything that holds true to the stormy weather we’ve heard about before, it’s the sea that surrounds the island. Even on a sunny day I could tell that “She” posesses a hidden strength – a personality trait to respect.

We took the half day city tour around the whole island and were introduced to even more spectacular coastal views from different view decks. The town of Song-Song, destroyed by storm surges brought on by a big typhoon, is a reminder of the wild days. Even on a sunny day one can’t help but imagine the stormy weather that left the ruined houses behind. Turning inland, we got to see the famous rolling countryside of Batan, one of the three major islands that make up Batanes. Aptly named “Marlboro Country”, the hill overlooking grazing lands and the ocean beneath, is picture-perfect a must-see as is the 360 degree view from the radar station. If you want to imagine what life could be like on this picturesque island, head over to the studio and house of the late Pacita Abad, one of the Philippines’ national artists. Her hillside house is ideally situated with a perfect view of the land and sea. No doubt it has served as an inspiration to her work countless times.

Crossing to Sabtang
A trip to Sabtang is another must. It is a short ferry ride from the other side of Batan and without a doubt a highlight of our trip. Comparing boats in the Philippines, the rough seas surrounding Batanes make outriggers impractical. Instead, deep, wide wooden boats are the preferred mode of transportation here. The downside (or upside depending on your inclination) to not having outriggers is that the boat sways quite heavily from side to side with the water reaching a few inches from the boat’s edge. Just before you think the sea will surge over the edge into the boat, it sways the other way and inflicts the same kind of panic on the passengers of the other side. To add to the excitement, boats are packed to the brim with wide-eyed tourists like ourselves, locals, food and goods (like the motorcycle we piled into our boat). Riding over the small channel, one can again feel the strong currents under the boat.

Unlike Batan, Sabtang is considered more laid-back. Here, the main activities are fishing, farming and fermenting Palek, a sugarcane-based wine. Villages like Chavayan and Subnanga are living museums that you can walk through. Peak through the doors and windows and you can see soot-covered kitchens that must have been around since the 19th century - !. You still see people mending nets much like they used to, or making the local raingear, the vacul, as they’ve done for ages. Sadly, this way of life is fast disappearing. The younger generation now migrate to Batan or to the bigger cities of the mainland; one can also find quite a few Ivatans now with jobs abroad. The result is abandoned stone houses, still standing as a testament to their construction, but eerily, as no one is living inside.

The best way to get around Sabtang is via jeepney, but make sure to pre-arrange this as there are no regular routes plied during the day – it’s all customized for you. Take a roof seat for the best view of the surrounding countryside. We ran into a university team excavating old burial jars and were surprised to learn of an ancient civilization that used to live here ages ago. Apparently this island is home to an old stone fortress -- although now it is nothing more than a mound of stones.

Elusive Itbayat
The most remote and least inhabited island of the Batanes group is Itbayat. One needs to take a four hour ferry ride to get there. I had planned to visit this island despite the seemingly harrowing journey, and remembering the swaying and sometimes rough seas. Itbayat retains its old world charm, with only one road on the island, and no hotels; one needs to arrange to stay with a family beforehand. Landing on Itbayat is also apparently a dangerous event since it is surrounded by cliffs and one has to wait for the right moment to pull up beside these to disembark. Unfortunately, our plan to visit Itbayat never pushed through. The ferry owner cancelled the trip that day since he could not get enough passengers and goods to make the trip worthwhile.

Two out of three isn’t bad and I love a trip that changes my view of a place. Batanes is no longer the remote, hard-to-reach place I had known it to be, and with the weather that turns from rain to sunshine, it allows visitors a chance to appreciate its natural beauty. The danger however is still there in the ever-present waters that surround the islands. For those who shun typically touristy trips, arranging and succeeding in a trip to Itbayat should satisfy your exploratory urges.

Travel Notes
Food & Lodging: We stayed at the Batanes Seaside Hotel during our trip to Batanes. Like a few other inns, it is located right beside the beach and has a great view. The owner can put together a package for you which includes a tour of Batan and Sabtang Island (Itbayat is a do- it-yourself trip). The package also includes an incredibly flexible food menu. With seafood being relatively cheap we opted for Lobster for our first night . . . and second night. It’s up to you what you want.

Transportation: Around Basco everything is within walking distance and talking a stroll is highly recommended. Getting around the island will require you to arrange for transportation for the day as there are no regular routes plied by jeepneys. Of course the best way to get around is by bicycle if you can find one for rent.

What to bring: Unless rain is forecasted you can leave your raincoat behind. Bring a good floppy hat to protect you from the sun. If you can’t swim bring a life vest as the local ferries may not have enough for everyone. If you can swim and plan to go to Itbayat, bring a life vest anyway.

Camiguin Calling

The Philippines is filled with exciting islands to explore. From scenic mountain ranges, sun-kissed beaches, and historical provinces, the country not only invites its travelers to experience the local countryside but also its guests to embark on a memorable journey to its lands. One island promises its visitors an adventure vacation. The tropical paradise of Camiguin is an exotic getaway like no other.

Camiguin is the smallest province in Mindanao and the 2nd smallest province in the country, next to Batanes. Situated in Northern Mindanao, this pear-shaped island is literally created by volcanic landscapes. Camiguin has 7 volcanoes unlike anywhere else in Asia. Some of them are already dormant but most, like Mt. Hibok-Hibok, are still considered active. Because of its rich landscape, the island is blessed with so many interesting sceneries —from thick forests, hot and cold springs, magnificent waterfalls and beautiful black and white beaches.

The island has numerous attractions such as the sunken cemetery. It is the final resting place of the victims during the volcanic eruption of Mount Vulcan Daan in 1871. Years ago, tourists can still see the tops of the grave during lowtide, but by high tide, the graves silently sink back into the ocean. A tall white cross in the middle of the sea was erected by the provincial government to mark the sunken cemetery. Every year, the town holds a fluvial procession to honor the victims as well as a thanksgiving for the year’s bountiful harvest. Another stunning landscape is the uninhabited white island. Located off the coast of Mambajao, the white island really is a moon-shaped white sand bar surrounded by crystal clear waters. Who wouldn’t be tempted to sunbathe on this fine stretch of sand surrounded by breathtaking scenery?

Camiguin is rich in exotic food finds, the most popular being the lanzones fruit. Sweet, succulent and irresistible, the Camiguin lanzones is considered the best in the world. Because of its love for the fruit, the island has an annual Lanzones Festival held every third week of October. Street dancing, upbeat music and bulks of lanzones clusters fill the island making the event a major tourist attraction of Camiguin.

Traveling to the island is also considered an adventure. Visitors have to travel first to Cagayan de Oro, the gateway to Camiguin. Philippine Airlines, Air Philippines and Cebu Pacific have direct flights to Cagayan de Oro. Next, tourists have to take a cab to the bus station in Agora Market to the town of Balingoan. Tourists must then take a 1-hour ferry ride arriving in the Benoni Wharf of Mahinog in Camiguin. An alternate route would be the 3-hour trip from Cagayan de Oro to Camiguin on board the M/V Yuhum.

A paradise of infinite beauty and splendor, Camiguin truly deserves to be called one of the best romantic islands in the country.

Fish Out of Water

Fish Out of Water celebrates the OFH – Overseas Filipino Heroes – and… er… seafood! From the restaurateurs that brought you Red Crab, Fish Out of Water expertly creates new ways of eating seafood and telling spectacular stories of Filipinos who have made it abroad such as the Manila men of Louisiana in 1763. The seasoned traveler, Bahasa speaker, and executive chef Peter Ayson uses the Filipino taste as a foundation and blends Asian, Hawaiian, Brazilian, American, and other flavors to spice up the dishes. The menu reads like an atlas with specials like Filipino Hawaiian Friendship Poke and Oyster Tribute Plate, Singaporean Chili Crab, and the Crab from Pateros in Ultimate Balut and Crab Roe Sauce (I didn’t make that up). They also have home-made horchata (almond cinnamon milk) that makes me wonder if Peter’s keeping an illegal Mexican in his kitchen.

Location: 3rd Floor of Greenbelt 5 in Makati City.

Hours Open:
Weekdays from 11am to 9pm
Weekends from 11am to 10pm.

Prices: Expect to pay around P350 to P600 per person for family sized servings.

For reservations, call (63 2) 729 3858.

Portico 1771

Portico cuts a sunlit corner in Serendra, one of the high-class commercial areas in Metro Manila. Golden walls bring out the colors of the murals framed across the restaurant while vibrant spicy red hues flare up around the windows of the open kitchen. Bright yellow plates and boldly colored vases give the dining room a new sizzle. Portico 1771 invites you to relax and feel at home in their newest branch in Serendra in the middle of the Global City of Taguig.

Although they still serve most of their signature dishes, the restaurant has concocted new twists to some of their favorite foods. The Lamb Osso Bucco is a guaranteed hit. The tender lamb shank is over an inch thick. The steak fillet is enhanced with a sauce rich with flavors of herbs and tomatoes complimented with creamy mashed potatoes. Another mouth-watering dish is the Pork Barrel – tender, brined pork belly – it packs a loud satisfying crunch with every bite. This dish comes with two different sauces.

The old favorites mix easily with the new dishes. The kitchen still sends out fat white pillow of poached Gindara with Crispy Pata Bits swimming in a hearty thick sauce. Pizzas and sandwiches are also available throughout the day. For the health buffs, there is the White Pizza with Arugula or you can also choose the Grilled Chicken and Tomato Sandwich. You can also try the Baked Cheese Fondue made from tasty Fontina cheese and bits of chorizo (Spanish sausages) served with slender Ciabatta bread sticks. For dessert, treat yourself to something new: The Almond Biscotti paired with nougatine ice cream or sweet strawberries in cream over warm chocolate tart.

Portico 1771 is a great place to relax, have fun and enjoy great food.

Portico opens 7:30 daily. It closes at 12:00 midnight from Sunday to Wednesday and 1:00 AM from Thursdays – Saturdays. For reservations, you may call them at (63 2) 856 0581.

Abe's Farm in Pampanga

Just a short ride away to the north is the charming province of Pampanga. It is a place mixed with a proud cultural heritage and fast developing sites that cater to the international community. It is also a haven for people who want to experience the leisurely pace of the countryside. The Pampangueños (natives of Pampanga) are known for their love of the good and simple life and their love for good hearty food, a feeling they greatly share with others.

Abe’s Farm in Magalang, Pampanga will surely give its guests the real Kapampangan experience. Nestled in the foothills of Mt. Arayat, Abe’s Farm serves gourmet dishes and delicacies to its visitors. Get to taste authentic Kapampangan dishes like Sizzling Sisig (pork and liver mixed with chilies, sometimes with egg and calamansi juice), and Mechado (beef cooked in tomato sauce and soy sauce). As the former residence of famed writer and artist, Abe Aguilar Cruz, father of celebrated restaurateur, the late Larry J. Cruz, the farm is filled with beautiful and interesting pieces and native touches creating a unique but homey feeling to its visitors. Guests can even stay for a night in one of their native huts located below the main restaurant. Each hut has large mattresses and air-conditioning to make your stay comfortable.

For a real treat have a sensual massage right next door at Nurture Spa. Known as one of the pioneers of the spa industry in the country, Nurture Spa guarantee their guests rejuvenation and relaxation with their therapist’s intuitive touches and soothing spa treatments.

Jeepney Tours is also offering a Pampanga Escapade package so you can experience the best sites of the province. From an exclusive wine tour of one of Clark’s best kept secrets, to a scrumptious English breakfast, from a high-flying adventure to a free massage in one of the country’s best spas, Jeepney Tours will take you to an unforgettable trip to the countryside. For more information visit www.jeepneytours.com or call (63 2) 638 6644 and 994 6636. For reservations and inquiries you may e-mail them at info@jeepneytours.com

When going to Abe’s Farm from Manila, take the Angeles Exit on the North Luzon Express (NLEX). Follow the Magalang Road leading to the town plaza then proceed to Barangay Ayala which will take 10 minutes. From Ayala, go past the resort on the left; continue on to Livestock Village where you will see the sign “Abe’s Farm” at the corner.

10 Great Ways to Enjoy Tuna

The Marina Tuna Seafood Restaurant is a booming restaurant in the city that specializes in preparing tuna – in ten delicious ways -- from the tail to the head. Be sure to expect some Filipino favorites like kinilaw, crispy meat and kaldereta on the tune menu! The spectacular establishment of Marina Tuna Seafood Restaurant was founded by Mr. Domingo O. Ang, known as the father of Davao Fishport Transhipment Operations. His clout in the business gave him access to the best breed of tunas around Asia. His network allowed us to enjoy a taste of export quality tuna and even bring it home in vacuum sealed pack. Craving for tuna? You know where to go.

From the Tail:

1.) Crispy Buntot (Tail)
This is the fish version of a famous local cuisine, the Crispy Pata (pork knuckles). It has a striking presentation, with orderly slices of every part while the meat is still attached to the bone. Every part of it is ultimately crunchy and the inner portion is chewy which is very similar to the irresistible pork version. It is served with delicious achara (pickled vegetables), the perfect partner for fried dishes. It is like eating a sinful crispy and delicious dish minus the cholesterol guilt.

The Body:

2.) Tuna Kaldereta
Just like how a mother would cook it for her family, the Kaldereta is a comfort food for the Filipinos. The full flavor is exactly the same from the sauce to the ingredients. So who needs pork?

3.) Kinilaw
This famous local appetizer is served raw and cooked in the natural acids of vinegar and local spices. Their version is very unique and their ingredients are very fresh.
Koreans will enjoy the tangy and flavorful taste of this southern Filipino dish.

4.) Sashimi
The tuna slices are perfect in texture and in taste, served just like in an authentic Japanese restaurant. The place guarantees you with first-class tasting tuna.

The Belly:

5.) Sizzling Tuna Belly
Another staple favorite is the fat tuna belly, sliced into cubes for easy distribution to hungry diners. It was served in a sizzling plate with a taste of melted butter and a mix of ingredients that blended well with the overall flavor of the meal.

6.) Sizzling Bagaybay (egg of mal tuna)
The Bagaybay is the egg of the male tuna. Male tuna has eggs?! It turned out that it is the sperm of the male tuna that solidifies waiting to spawn. It’s was a meal worth exploring! Nothing goes to waste!

7.) Sizzling Bihod (egg of female tuna)
The Bihod is the the more familiarly known as the egg of the female tuna. It is prepared in a sizzling plate with interesting ingredients exploding in flavor.

The Neck:

8.) Sizzling Tuna Tendon
The tuna tendon has a very unusual taste and its white color made you think twice whether it’s still part of tuna. Its texture is very chewy flavored coated by flavors from the sizzling plate. Bizarre but worth tasting for those with those who have adventurous tongues.

To the head:

9.) Grilled Tuna Jaw (Panga)
The Tuna jaw or panga is a top choice among the ten. It is grilled to darkness which makes you think its not appetizing but the meat inside was so soft, juicy and ultimately flavorful. You can taste the marinade with every bite.

10.) Sinigang Eye Soup
The sinigang is a tamarind based soup known for its sour and savory taste. The Sinigang Eye Soup adds a more flavorful touch to the broth. Try to mix a dash of calamansi (Philippine lime) to add a new dimension to the taste of the soup.

The spectacular establishment of Marina Tuna Seafood Restaurant was founded by Mr. Domingo O. Ang, known as the father of Davao Fishport Transhipment Operations. His clout in the business gave him access to the best breed of tuna that originates from the Pacific Ocean brought by the Taiwanese fleet for export to the Japanese market. His network allowed us to enjoy a taste of export quality tuna and even bring it home in vacuum sealed pack. Craving for tuna? You know where to go.

The Davao Marina Tuna is located at Km. 8 Barrio Pampanga, Sasa, Davao City. You may contact them at (63 82) 233 6666 or 235 8653.

Genuine Filipino Hospitality at the White Rock Resort in Subic

Sometimes people just need to unwind and get away from the stress of everyday life. They’ll want a place to give them all the necessities they need: relaxation, entertainment and above all rejuvenation to return again to the everyday way of life. Just a short distance away from Manila is Subic, a frequent daytrip destination in the country, is the White Rock Resort, a 7-hectare premier beach haven known for its picturesque beachscape offering guests a view of the sea and the rolling mountainside across the bay waters. At White Rock, you’ll surely enjoy a most pleasurable experience.

Friendly, service-oriented and very accommodating – that is how you would describe the staff and crew of the White Rock Resort. Expect to be greeted with a wide heart-warming smile when you walk through your way around the resort. The staff also gives efficient service when providing for your needs.
Guests will surely find the resort’s accommodations very comfortable and splendid. White Rock has more than a hundred guest rooms from De Luxe, Family Rooms, Beach Front Rooms and Beachside Cottages. All the rooms are equipped with complimentary amenities like air-conditioning, LCD TV and DVD players, mini bar, private hammocks, and balconies with comfortable seating area. The resort is also undergoing expansion with 24-room villas.

The resort can also easily accommodate group reservations like weddings, reunions as well as corporate outings. Guests can have the option to choose open-air and air-conditioned function rooms, pavilions and banquet halls. The grand ballroom can even accommodate up to 500 people perfect for big conferences and social events.

White Rock has 2 main venues for dining. Located beside the lobby is the Sunset Cafe which caters the breakfast buffet, pastries, a bar as well as other meals throughout the day. During meals be entertained by piano playing and at night, be serenaded with a harana by the resort’s acoustic band. Near the beach is the D’Plaza Bar and Restaurant. Here you can feast on succulent grilled and seafood dishes and many other favourite native foods served with an array of colourful yummy drinks and brews. On weekends, live bands and perform on stage while guests are invited to jam and dance the night away.

At White Rock you will never get bored! There’s a hundred and one ways to spend your time inside and outside the resort. From water sports like jet-skis, parasailing, sea kayaking, banana boat rides, fly fishing, and scuba diving to beach activities such as beach volleyball and badminton. The resort also has a golf pitch and putt as well as its own ten-pin bowling area. Guests can also enjoy a leisurely walk around the man-made waterfalls or along the garden pathways and spend a lazy afternoon swaying on the hammocks dotted around the resort. For those who want to make their stay more pleasurable, the resort also has an in-house health spa for men and women that provide sensuous massage treatments and beauty packages for the guests. White Rock also welcomes day trippers who want to enjoy their black sand beach. Relax and sunbathed on their comfortable beach cabanas while sipping on delectable fruit shakes and cold beverages.

White Rock Resort also has 4 swimming pools with sunbathing areas and fun slides as well as colourful playgrounds for the kids. You can also inquire about the tour packages so you can experience the adventurous and exciting sites of Subic.

Sand, sights, spa and spectacular accommodations, the White Rock Resort in Subic is your vacation getaway from the metropolis. For reservations you may call (63 47) 222 2857 or 222 2378 or send an email to reservations@whiterock.com.ph. You may also check their website at www.whiterock.com.ph.

Pearl Farm Resort in Samal Island

The Philippines is filled with world class hotels and resorts that cater to the local and international tourists. It is important for these establishments to cater to their guests and provide them the best not only to give their guests a relaxing time but also a vacation to remember. From the accommodations, to the activities offered to the food, everything has to be perfect and ultimately engaging to its guests. In the beautiful Island Garden of Samal, you can surely find one of the best island resorts in the country.

The Pearl Farm Beach Resort remains to be one of the most exotic, romantic and exclusive resort getaways in the Philippines. Located in Samal Island, surrounded with thick foliage of Eden-like atmosphere, the Pearl Farm Resort is a tropical paradise like no other. Before becoming one of the best resort hideaways in the country, it originated as a Pearl Farm where countless of precious stones from pink, white and gold pearls were cultivated. Draped with bright colourful hues that reflect the rich history of the Ka-Mindanawan culture, Pearl Farm immerses its guests to luxury and refinement.

The Pearl Farm has 70 deluxe accommodations with guests choosing from cozy guestrooms, private cottages and vibrant suites built on stilts and perched above the sea overlooking the serene blue hues of the Mindanao waters. Decorations are from Maranao and Samal ethnic influences and accommodations are conveniently equipped with comfortable king-size beds, television with cable, air conditioning, and a welcome fruit platter. For a real treat, guests can also have the luxury of staying at exclusive villas located at Malipano Island. Here. guests can enjoy a 3-hole golf course as well as the island’s pristine white beach.

As one of the most beautiful resorts in the country, the Pearl Farm is filled with world-class facilities and services for their guests. You can have the choice of doing numerous water sports & activities at the Aqua Sports Center which offers scuba diving, snorkelling, wind surfing, water skiing sea kayaking and many more. For those who want to stay dry, there’s the resort’s game room equipped with different activities such as board games, chess tables billiards, and even mah-jong sets.

Hidden behind the thick curtain of flora is the Ylang-Ylang Spa. Regarded as one of the best spas in the Philippines, guests can have the pleasure of having a massage while being soothed by the sound of rushing water from the man-made waterfalls.

Enjoy the freshest and most delicious specialities at the Maranao Restaurant. Be served with mouth-watering seafood creations and a myriad of signature Filipino and international dishes.

Not just for relaxation, and romantic getaways, the Pearl Farm also hosts large groups for out of town
conferences, corporate outings and other business functions.

A place of infinite luxury in the middle of rich Mindanao splendour, the Pearl Farm resort is a tropical experience not to be missed in Davao.

From the Francisco Bangoy (Davao) International Airport, travellers can ask a taxi to take them to the Pearl Farm Marina which is just 20 minutes away from the airport. From the Marina, travellers then have to ride a ferry boat which departs every morning, afternoon and mid-afternoon (actual time depends on the schedule) to get to the Island Garden City of Samal. The ferry ride going to the Pearl Farm Resort takes 45 minutes.

Those waiting for the ferry boats going to Samal Island may lounge at the Coffee Shop of the Pearl Farm Marina. They serve delectable snacks and dishes. It is also wi-fi ready so you can log on to the internet while waiting for the ferry. A few feet away from the Coffee Shop is the boutique where you can buy beautifully-designed handmade souvenirs.

Pearl Farm Beach Resort
Island Garden City of Samal, Philippines
(63 82) 221 9979
www.fuegohotels.com

Bahura Resort and Spa

Negros Oriental in Visayas is one of the best diving destinations in the Philippines. Home to Apo Island, hailed as one of the best dive sites in the world, Negros Oriental offers almost every kind of adventure there is to each bold and free spirited traveler.

The Bahura Resort and Spa is located in the town of Dauin, Negros Oriental. Bahura, the Spanish word for ‘reefs’, suitably describes the rich marine life around the resort. Guests have the option to dive into the house reef which is just a few steps away from the beach; at the world famous Apo Island which is located just 30 minutes away from the resort; at the Dauin Sanctuary which is located about 10 minutes away from Bahura; or at the Masaplod Sanctuary which is smaller than the other sanctuaries but has 50 percent more target food fish species than Apo Island or Dauin.

The Bahura Resort and Spa has its own PADI Dive Center with dive masters who can turn you into a certified diver in no time. Being the sister company of Scubaworld Inc., the largest provider of scuba equipment and services in the Philippines, Bahura Resort and Spa’s on-site dive center has the most extensive inventory of scuba equipment and accessories in Dumaguete.

After a day of diving and enjoying the other water activities that include kayaking, snorkeling, hobie cats, jet skiing and dolphin watching, guests may have themselves pampered from head to toe at the spa which is located in an isolated place by the beach.

The Bahura Resort and Spa offers some of the best meals in the whole of Negros Oriental. One must never fail to try the native chicken which is seasoned and cooked to perfection and their homemade tofu which is served with a delicious sauce.

Spread over a 5-hectare coconut plantation, the resort is an ideal location for tropical weddings. The coconut trees, the beautiful beach and the impressive pools serve as stunning backdrops to any special occasion celebrated within this island sanctuary. Bahura also has spacious Zen-inspired rooms that offer unmatched solitude and relaxation. There are also 8 private villas that provide astonishing ocean views and are equipped with a semi-kitchen, a full bar setup, TV/DVD players, dining area, living room, extra large bathroom with shower and whirlpool tub, a Japanese garden and a loft bedroom.

Whether you choose to stay above or under water, whether you come with your whole family or just a special someone, the Bahura Resort and Spa will spoil you to your heart’s content and offer every imaginable activity there is to make your vacation a truly unforgettable experience.

Bahura Resort and Spa
Km 19/20 Maayong Tubig,
Dauin 6217 Negros Oriental, Philippines
(63 35) 425-2054/53
www.bahura.com

Visit Romantic Antulang

A charming resort in the town of Siaton provides an escape from the fast pace of the modern world where everything is expected to happen in an instant. It is where one is able to slow down to see the world around like you’ve never seen it before.

The Antulang Beach Resort is a secluded resort perched on top of a cliff, giving guests a commanding view of the ocean. It is the only resort in Negros that has Pool Villas that are perfect for honeymooners. With its own pool and Jacuzzi, each villa guarantees unparalleled privacy on the island. It is a place where one can swim with abandon, with the spectators being only the sea, the sky and your companion.

Though Antulang is an ideal hideaway for romantic couples, it is also a great place to spend a vacation with your friends, with each day filled with adventures that are carefully planned out by the efficient staff. Accommodations at the Pool Villa comes with a personal butler who will attend to your every need.

Antulang used to have only four Pool Villas, but with its popularity among honeymooners who always book everything solid, two new Pool Villas were added to give more people a chance to enjoy their special vacation in complete privacy. There are also two infinity pools and a new restaurant called Japi where big group gatherings and occasional cultural performances are held.

A Sunset Cruise is the perfect activity for honeymooners. Onboard the Annabelle Lee, a yacht named after the owner of the resort, Ms. Annabelle Lee-Adriano, guests will pass by several fishermen hauling the day’s catch to their boats and explore Tambobo Bay where numerous yachts are docked. Sunsets in Negros are nothing short of spectacular. The sky is painted in hues of red and orange with the sun going down on one side and the moon rising on the other as if slow dancing to create a wonderful scatter of light across the heavens.

At night, couples may enjoy a romantic private dinner at the Pool Villa. A trip to the world famous Apo Island is a must when in Negros. Located on 30 minutes away by boat from the resort, Apo Island is ideal for snorkeling and diving. Hailed as one of the best dive sites in the world, Apo Island is home to more than 600 species of fish and 400 species of corals.

The Antulang Beach Resort is located an hour away from Dumaguete City, the capital of Negros Oriental.

For more information on this resort, you may visit www.antulang.comor call (63 35) 422 2600.

Manila Ocean Park

Did you know that fish keeping as pets started more than 45,000 years ago with the Sumerians? That a person who studies fish for a living is called an Ichthyologist? That the fastest fish in the world is cosmopolitan sailfish? Or that there are more than 350 shark species and only 32 have ever attacked humans? If you want to learn more and explore the fun-filled world of the deep, then visit the newest attraction in the Philippines’ capital city, Manila Ocean Park.

It is the first world-class marine-themed complex which also houses the Oceanarium (first and largest aquarium facility in the Philippines), a mall, boutique hotel, open water marine habitats and many other multi-purpose facilities. The most visited site is the Oceanarium, home to thousands of marine life and sea creatures found on the Philippines and the Southeast Asian waters. It’s divided into sections each with their own marine function; perfect for any sea life enthusiast! Here are just some of what you might see: barracudas, electric eels, stingrays and even sharks! A different kind of adventure, the Manila Ocean Park will transport you from dry land to the riches of the deep.

Manila Ocean Park
Behind Quirino Grandstand, Luneta Park
Open Mondays - Sundays from 10:00 AM- 9:00 PM
Tel. No: (63 2) 567 7777
Fax. No.: (63 2) 567 2309
Website: www.manilaoceanpark.com

Intramuros: Light and Sound Museum and Fort Santiago

The Philippines is very proud of its rich history. It has come a long way from its almost 400 year old period of colonization which has produced numerous influences, stories and artifact through the times. Although Manila has transformed considerably from its first development as the capital during the Spanish rule during the past centuries, the city has preserved several significant places that still hold evidences of its past colonizer. The most prominent is the walled-city of Intramuros. Built in 1571, it is one of the best preserved medieval cities in the world. Here you can see many of the past structures still exist. In this part of the city, you could visit some establishments that tell more about the past history of the Philippines.

LIGHT AND SOUND MUSEUM
Learn about the Philippines’ rich history and the heroes who have sacrificed for our country’s freedom. Visitors can walk through time and see the highly-detailed life-size dioramas of the Light and Sound Museum located inside the walled city of Intramuros.

A tourism project developed by Sen. Richard Gordon, this interactive attraction symbolizes the integrity, bravery and spirit of the Filipino people. Guests can relive the story of the Philippines, from its pre-historic encounters to the life and death of our national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal. See this amazing tour as you walk around the museum and learn about the historical events -- from the conversion to Christianity and the provincial revolts to the revolution that led our way to independence -- that shaped the country to what it is today. This educational tour is a great family trip as well as a perfect excursion for those who want to learn more about the country.

The museum is located along Sta. Lucia Street cor. Victoria Street inside Intramuros. The tour requires a minimum fee of Php 1,000 per tour. The first show starts at 10:00 AM and the last show at 6:00 PM. For reservations or inquiries you may contact (63 2) 524 2827.

FORT SANTIAGO
Fort Santiago is considered one of the most significant historical sites in the country. It was once the stronghold of the Spanish military made by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, the Spanish conquistador who colonized Manila in the 16th century and thereafter the American soldiers during their occupation. Originally it was the site of the kingdom and palace of Raja Sulayman, the last Muslim Datu of Manila. This fortress was also the place where Jose Rizal was detained during his last days before his execution in 1896.

Today Fort Santiago is preserved as a museum which holds precious objects and other legacies left by the Spanish government. It is a popular historical destination frequently visited by foreigners as well as a regular stop for student fieldtrips. Visitors can buy various kinds of souvenirs from the different stores lined up across the fort’s grounds. You can even have a kalesa ride (horse carriage) around the fort for just Php 200.00. Visitors can certainly feel the comfortable lifestyle of the elite during the golden years of the city.

Jeepney Tours also offers special packages to the Light and Sound Museum and Fort Santiago with their Cultural Heritage Tour. Aside from the historical tours, you can also get to have a lunch buffet in a 19th century Spanish setting in Barbara’s Restaurant. For reservations you may contact (63 2) 638 6644 and (63 2) 994 6636.

Island Banca Cruises

When you think about a typical island hopping trip, the image of a dingy old pump boat circling the waters comes to mind. For the Island Banca Cruises in Cebu, it’s a totally different island hopping experience.

Island Bancas has 3 available boats that accommodate a specific number of groups. The big boat is called “Butanding” which can hold 20-35 people, while the other smaller boats are called “Butete” (12-20) and “Bolinao” (2-8 people). Guests can relax, stretch and have the luxury of space and convenience on the roomy interiors of the boats. Once onboard, guests can choose from different beverages and snacks while enjoying their own sounds on the portable IPod dock found on the boats. Guests can also spread all over the big boat and enjoy the sun and sea while seating on the numerous beanbags found on the spacious deck.

The start of the trip is along the Gilutungan Channel of the Cebu Strait. Every trip has a friendly tour guide that introduced the places the guests will be travelling to around the neighboring islands. Here he provides basic information on the places, establishments and even small tidbits that happened around the seas, quite a change from the simple trip of going to a destination.

Island Bancas offer unique and exclusive tour packages for their guests. From pleasure cruises around the Cebu waters, colorful snorkeling and fish feeding experiences and around the Gilutugan, Nalusuan, Punta Engaño Tinggo, Agus and Talima marine sanctuaries, Island Hopping excursions around Pandanon and Olango Islands, Lechon (Roasted Pig) Barbeque Picnics, sea kayaking, and sunset dinner, the Island Bancas can arrange everything for you. For those hardcore scuba enthusiasts based in Cebu, Island Bancas also offer 3- day dive safari packages to the neighboring provinces of Bohol and Negros. There are also the Dolphin Watching trips in Sogod and the Camotes Islands.

Apart from the tour packages, Island Bancas also offer other services like body andfoot massages, wi-fi onboard the boats, babysitter arrangements and airport and hotel transfers. They also offer numerous equipments for rent such as scuba gears, dive masks, kayaks, and wetsuits.

All these and more, Island Bancas will truly make your Cebu trip more exciting. For more information on the activity packages of Islands Banca Cruises, you can check their website at www.islandsbanca.com. For quotations and reservations, you may contact them at (63 32) 346 0418 or send an email to info@islandsbanca.com.

Davao Crocodile Park Complex

There are many fascinating things to do and see when visiting Davao City, the largest metropolis in the country and one of the most progressive cities in the Philippines. The harmonious relationship between its neighboring provinces influenced by ethnic and cultural ties has made Davao the window to the island of Mindanao. It is a melting pot for all the Ka-Mindanawan culture: its geography and surroundings, the pieces of history, and the gathering point of celebration festivities like the Kadayawan Festival. Moments like these make Davao City inviting and thrilling to visit. But what makes Davao exciting is its array of interesting sites. One of them is the Davao Crocodile Complex. Here, not only can you enjoy nature at its fullest but also have fun and learn from its wide array of services and features.

When visiting the Davao Crocodile Complex you’re really getting your money’s worth because of the many activities and sites you could do there. The park is divided into 4 sections.

The first one you will encounter is the Davao Crocodile Park. More than a hundred saltwater crocodiles as well as other creatures such as reptiles, birds, and mammals can be seen on this amazing animal park. Here you can learn about the life cycle of the saltwater crocodiles. Visitors can see the different stages of its lifecycle from its beginning as an egg to its mature state for breeding. Guests are allowed to interact with the animals making the tour a unique experience to try. Don’t worry though; there are animal trainers, caretakers and staff located all over the park making your visit safe and comfortable. There are a lot of things to do beside from viewing the animals. Every day the park schedules a Wildlife Park show featuring an educational show for guests, crocodile feeding, crocodile dancing and tight rope walking across the crocodile pens. One of its brightest attractions is Pangil, the park’s oldest and biggest crocodiles.

Another place to enjoy around the complex is the Tribu K’Mindanawan. It is a unique cultural village highlighting the dwellings of the indigenous people in Mindanao. At Tribu K’Mindanawan one can relax and unwind near the river in the middle of hundreds of tall bamboo trees providing a nature inspired setting. Inside the landscaped village you can see genuine vernacular landmarks. In its effort to promote the culture and products of the indigenous community, Tribu K’Mindanawan provides educational and interactive cultural performances. A guided tour around the village is also available. A souvenir shop inside the village offers genuine handcrafted products. The village also hosts native tribes every month to allow them to share to the guests their culture, products performances and culinary arts. It has become a favorite venue for big events and theme parties. The setting of Tribu K’Mindanawan is ideal for jungle safari and indigenous people costume parties. At night, bamboo torches are lit to accent the area giving the guest a total tribal experience. For special events exotic animal petting, cultural shows and fire shows are held for their guests.

Next on the list is the Davao Butterfly House. Be surrounded by lush thick greeneries of the botanical garden containing hundred of butterflies fluttering all over the area. The park also features a film showing about the butterflies, its lifecycle as well as its purpose with nurture. Be enthralled by its metamorphic transformation from a simple caterpillar to a beautiful and majestic butterfly. The garden not also features these lovely creatures but also features these lovely creatures but also several indigenous plants and fruit bearing trees. The botanical garden prides itself of its natural produce namely the Dragon Fruit an exotic tropical fruit known to be a delicacy in the country. For guests who want to take a piece of their visit with them home, the butterfly house also sells them for Php 50 apiece.

Last but not least is the Riverwalk Grill located strategically beside the riverbank so guests can enjoy the calm flowing atmosphere of the river. Customers who have exotic taste buds are in for a treat. The Riverwalk Grill is known to serve delicious crocodile dishes as well as the only restaurant to make the scrumptious Dragon Fruit Shake.

Davao Crocodile Park Complex also provides venue and accepts bookings for big events, corporate parties, sports activities, teambuilding activities and other special occasions. For bookings and inquiries, you can call (63 82) 271 2626 or you can check their website at www.davaocrocodilepark.com.

The Crocodile Park Complex is undoubtedly one of the best places to enjoy and experience Davao. Fun, educational, interactive and original, it provides tourists the best of everything in just one place.

Magical Galera Casts Its Spell

The Magic
Sure, the sand was white and the sun was half-tucked into white feathers in the sky. The salty air’s harmonious twang synchronized with the rhythmic beat of the waves. It was easy to get lost in the moment. But something else was more captivating, overshadowing the already surreal moment. A boy, maybe six or seven years old, was playing by the shore. His hair was as dark as his eyes. At first glance, this wide-eyed boy seemed like any other boy his age, oblivious to the world and its trappings. However, his tanned skin suggests otherwise. It was as if he’s been aged by the sun and by time. He embeds his small fists on the dry, white sand and a small mark on his arm presents itself as he scoops a handful of sand. A quaint blemish so small you would mistake it for a birthmark. But it wasn’t. It was a henna tattoo the shape of a dolphin on his right arm. A conversation with this boy would have made it humbling but he doesn’t speak. When asked if he has seen a dolphin, he doesn’t nod. When asked if he wants to see one, he nods profusely. And it proved the theory right. Not unlike the beaches of Puerto Galera, this young boy is special. He scoops another handful and watches as the wind magically makes it disappear, and just like that, Puerto Galera has already cast its spell.

The Beaches
A stone’s throw away from the Batangas pier, Puerto Galera has always been part of the summer lexicon, resting heavily on the laurels of its white sand shores and healthy marine life. But the island has much more to offer than a picturesque landscape. The main destination for tourists is Sabang Beach, found east of Puerto Galera. Being the first beach to be discovered, it plays big brother to the equally popular White Beach. Because of its accessibility and proximity to Metro Manila, uncontrolled development made sure that it was only a matter of time before both beaches were dotted with bars and restaurants. Between the pounding nightlife, the pitchers of Mindoro Sling and the fast-paced turnover of transient vacationers, many a nature-lover fear that this rapid development might spell the end of Puerto Galera. Indeed, it seems almost like a disaster waiting to happen, which oddly enough is perhaps the reason why tourists should come to see Galera before it goes to ruin.

The good news is development has made sure that there is no lack of activity and accommodations when in Puerto Galera. Both beaches offer a variety of accommodations that run the gamut. Humid fan-cooled rooms compete with higher end places that offer not only air-conditioning but and hot and cold showers and steaming baths in Jacuzzis. There is also a fair amount of resorts that have opened shop in and around the island, one of which is the Buri Resort & Spa. Not to be confused with the Thai resort of the same name, Buri offers one thing that those not staying there will drool over: a fully dedicated spa. And as if that weren’t enough, the massage dutifully comes with a breathtaking view of the ocean.

Thankfully, the adjoining beaches of Aninuan and Talipanan offer an alternative to the frenetic nightlife of the main tourist beaches. A more relaxed, serene outlook is what these beaches take pride in, a step away from the hectic backdrop of the preceding bay. It is this unlikely collaboration of hasty and steady that makes Puerto Galera a prized gem. There is a bit of everything for everyone.

The Itinerary
Having fun in Puerto Galera entails a plethora of thrill-laden activities that range from snorkeling in the most diverse coral reef in Asia to guzzling a pitcher of Mindoro Sling. The popular cocktail drink this side of inebriated evenings, the almost legendary Mindoro Sling is a mix of rhum, orange juice, mango juice, grenadine and Sprite. At around Php350 per pitcher, it’s not surprising that this concoction is all the rage in Puerto Galera. From the alcohol binge to appreciating marine life, diving aficionados will have a field day with a number of diving spots around and about Puerto Galera. Diving shops are not uncommon in these parts and offer premier service for those with an affinity for underwater species. Even the uninitiated is given a chance to, literally, test the waters with a five-day diving course offered in some diving shops. Shifting gears during the stay in the island—barhopping one day, dolphin spotting the next—is what makes this side of Mindoro special. When all is said and done, however, Puerto Galera’s charm still remains to be its clear waters and fine white sands. Strolling the shores, it seems that Puerto Galera is no different from other populated and poisoned beaches that end up becoming a cautionary tale. But underwater, it is an altogether different world.

Retained Innocence
The magic of Puerto Galera, fortunately, has not waned despite valiant efforts of establishments to turn it in to a concrete shoreline. There still remains a sense of innocence in the brackish air and undisturbed reefs, much like the purity in the eyes of the boy with the dolphin tattoo. Listed as one of the special development areas by the Department of tourism, it simply makes the transformation process rapid and, unfortunately, legal. Yet despite the many transformations Puerto Galera has gone through and will go through, the unadulterated bliss of wading in fresh ocean water is something you can’t disprove. The vast ocean still has its secrets, and has never ceased to amaze. The young boy, the son of silence and innocence playing by the shore has yet to see his first dolphin. A little tattoo on his arm marks as a reminder of his simple wish of someday spotting one. And let’s latch on the optimism that it won’t be his last.

Travel Notes
Founded in 1574, Puerto Galera was used by the Spanish as a safe harbor for their galleons, hence the name, "Harbor of Galleons." It is about four hours away from Manila, located in the province of Oriental Mindoro.

Must Try: Cocktails at Point Bar
Point Bar has a stunning view of the small La Laguna Beach. Be careful not to pull the rope from the lounge bell or you might end up buying drinks for everyone! Why not wait for someone to ring it so you can get a free drink?

Diving
Asia Divers at Small La Laguna Beach
(63 43) 287 3205
www.asiadivers.com

Atlantis Dive Resort at Sabang Beach
(63 43) 287 3066 to 69
www.atlantishotel.com

Pacific Divers at White Beach
(63 917) 825 8751

How to Get There:
One must take a bus from Manila to the Batangas City Pier then hop on a ferry to any of the three Puerto Galera entry points: Muelle Pier, Balatero Pier or Sabang Beach.

A Little Bit of Everything at Mogambo Springs

Japanese village. African elements. Filipino touch. International services. The Mogambo Springs of Plantation Bay is in a different pampering world of its own.

What I love about the Plantation Bay resort is its old world charm. It’s like stepping back in time and experiencing Caribbean living in a lavish plantation house. But as we began to tour the beautiful grounds and waterworks of Plantation Bay Resort and Spa, I saw variety in the architectural design of the suites and as the playful decorations and unique location coordination of the structures. It seemed to me that this experience in Plantation Bay will not only be relaxing but also fun and exciting.

My mission-- to experience one of the best spas in Cebu: Mogambo Springs. Located at the north-eastern tip of the resort Mogambo Springs evokes the image of an exotic tropical-inspired spa. From what I have learned, the spa’s unusual name (Mogambo means “passion” in Swahili) was inspired by the 1953 film, Mogambo that starred Hollywood greats like Clark Gable, Ava Gardner and Grace Kelly.

As I enter the spa, I am stunned by what I see. The place is far from the Africa I know. Mogambo Springs is elegantly designed with a Japanese-inspired concept. It’s styled like an 18th century Tokugawa-era village and it is truly a sight to behold. Smooth white stones fill the landscape of the spa bordered by tall stalk of Bamboo trees and pieces of shrubbery. Small bamboo bridges link the pathways in between the man-made creek. I love the simple yet striking concept of the spa not only was it beautiful but it was also a break away from the usual heavily designed theme spas.

Three rooms of the spa are known as the spa indulgence rooms, meaning guests can stay overnight at these Japanese-inspired suites which also have the complete features of the resort’s other rooms. I’m sure it will make you feel like an authentic Japanese feudal lord when you wake up in the morning.

The tallest and most striking structure of the spa is the pagoda, located at the northern side. The pagoda is the spa’s biggest communal treatment room which can accommodate 6 people (3 per room), recommended for friends and family members, who want to have their treatments together. The spa has a total of 21 treatment areas: the 3 indulgent rooms, 4 suites, 2 triple treatment rooms at the pagoda and a pavilion for those who want foot treatments. The floor of the bath areas are covered with the smooth stones that stimulate the feet. Located on the southwest of the spa are the Jacuzzi jets and thalassic pools. Here, guests can relax and enjoy the warm bubbling waters of Mogambo Springs. One pool even has a rapid falls perfect for those looking for a therapeutic pool massage. All the pools are communal so why not make friends with the other guests? The pools are not only limited to those who have spa treatments. Guests of the resorts can also enjoy the lively waters of the spa pools upon paying an entrance fee of Php 300 at the spa reception. People using the pools and other spa facilities may also use the locker rooms for where personal belongings can be placed for safekeeping. A little further down the pools are first treatment rooms of the spa. This section of the facility actually looks a bit like the exotic jungles of Africa with its darker interiors.

While chatting with my hosts, Joanna and Coleen, I learn how the spa therapists were trained under the resident therapist supervisor. But for special treatments like the like foot reflexology, they have an annual session from a professional reflexologist from Singapore and Mr. Boy Fajardo, one of Manila’s most celebrated instructors for their Hilot training. One of their therapists was also chosen by the Spa Association of the Philippines Inc. (SAPi) and the Department of Tourism (DOT) to be a member of Team Russia to showcase Hilot for the Leisure Otdykh andLuxury Leisure Fair in Moscow. Talk about world-class service.

The treatments of Mogambo Springs provide the utmost relaxation and invigorating experience for their guests. The Galvanic Spa (30 minutes, Php 900.00) is a unique treatment that reduces lines and rejuvenates the skin in just 15 minutes. This treatment recommends six sessions to achieve better results. For those who have oily skin, the Deep Down Clean Facial (1 hour and 20 minutes, Php 3,300) is the best suggestion. It deeply cleanses the skin by regulating the sebaceous glands to reduce the shine. The treatment is paired with a soothing hand or upper body massage. There is also the Foot Heaven Massage (45 minutes, Php 1,300). Your feet will be pampered, spoiled and treated adoringly, leaving you calm and relaxing feeling all over. Mogambo Springs is proud to be the first spa in the country to use the Dorn Method (1 hour, Php 2,500) this holistic treatment is an original German healing method which includes the release of physical discomforts such as stiffness, back and neck aches, pelvic and lower-body pains as well as overall stress. As a developing spa addict and as being curious about the menu’s witty warning of an absolute spoiling experience, I choose the spa’s signature massage, Skinful Pleasures (1 hour, Php 1,800).

The pampering begins as my therapist starts massaging my feet. Unlike a traditional foot scrub before a massage, this one uses a more conventional way of indulging the foot nerves with a dry massage combined with pressured squeezing and literally making a fist in the middle part of my feet. After a series of soulful stretching and straightening of the body, my therapist further indulges me with a head massage focusing on my neck. I love the feeling so much I boldly ask her if she could do it again, and she happily obliges. Next, is the flip. Again, I feel the same heavenly motions on my back melting the stress and worries away. The therapist is using grape seed oil with a wee 3% mix of essential oil. The spa uses this mixture for all their massage treatments except for their Hilot (1 hour and 30 minutes, Php 3,000) which uses Virgin Coconut Oil.

What I loved about this massage experience was that the therapist gave all the right massage pressures at all the correct places. After the massage I headed to the reception where my therapists handed me my warm cup of green tea while I gladly said my thank you in exchange.

The calming feeling brought by the message together with the Japanese ambiance of the spa was a Zen experience I will always remember. Plantation Bay has charmed another guest once more with its excellent service, personal touches and the need to give the unexpected.

Spa Travel Notes

Mogambo Springs
Plantation Bay Resort and Spa
Marigondon, Mactan Island, Cebu
(63 32) 340 5900
www.plantationbay.com

OPERATING HOURS: The spa is open daily from 10:00 AM – 11:00 PM. Children are allowed from 10:00 AM – 5:00PM only.

Known as one of the most elegant, creative, and best resorts in the Philippines, The Plantation Bay Resort and Spa offers you the best with its high-quality service with old world charms. This 11-hectare resort has the largest waterworks with four salt water pools and the biggest freshwater pool in the country. If you’re still not satisfied, there are also the fun water slides by Mogambo Falls and the Galapagos Beach. It has 250 rooms including 20 suites and 3 indulgent rooms. Even if the resort is in full operations you’d still get the space you’ve wanted. Also, don’t fret on the distance of the facilities; the resort has a number of small jeepneys going around the resort to drop you off on your next destination.

The resort has four restaurants to satisfy your appetite:
Fiji Restaurant – Asian Cuisine, Seafood and Sushi bar
Kilimanjaro Cafe – International Cuisine and Coffee Shop
Palermo Restaurant – Italian Cuisine
Savannah Grill – Burgers, hotdogs, steaks and salads

There are a hundred things to do at Plantation Bay and more. The resort has a wide variety for sports and recreation from water adventures like scuba diving, kayaking, hobie cats, parasailing and island tours. There are also the tennis courts, wall-climbing, archery, karaoke, gym and game room.

How to get there:
The Plantation Bay Resort and Spa is just a 30-minute drive from the Cebu-Mactan International Airport. You can take a taxi going there or ask the resort to arrange an airport transfer for you.

Palawan Honeymoon Destinations

Honeymooners who wish to escape the city and go on a romantic hideaway to experience a tropical paradise should visit the island of Palawan in the Western Visayas region.

Considered as the "Last Frontier," Palawan is a beautiful island blessed with white sand beaches and surrounded by lush rainforests and majestic limestone cliffs. A natural sanctuary of exotic plants and wildlife, Palawan is a peaceful haven for couples wanting to spend quality time with nature and loved ones.

Even as the whole island is already a jewel to treasure, the northern parts of Palawan composed of the Calamian Group of Islands, among them Culion, Coron and Busuanga located in the northwest are already pieces of heaven on earth. Here, you will find natural wonders such as beautiful powdery sand beaches, quiet and world class resorts, an amazing underwater world, and exotic wildlife. You and your loved ones will surely feel blessed to see a breathtaking sunset with the most beautiful evening sky you will ever see.

El Nido
The 45 islands and islets in El Nido present endless opportunities for adventure and nature appreciation. One of the places couples should visit is the El Nido Marine Reserve. Located in northern Palawan, this popular nature spot consists of diverse ecosystems such as rainforests, mangroves, white sand beaches, coral reefs, and massive limestone cliffs of varying shapes and sizes which started forming 250 million years ago. Countless varieties of marine life are also found here such as manta rays. You may also find yourself lucky and see one of the world’s rarest marine mammal, the sea cow, locally called as dugong.

El Nido has internationally recognized resorts that Korean couples will love such as the El Nido Resorts in Miniloc Island and Lagen Island.

El Nido Resort in Lagen is the most luxurious resort in the area, a tropical hideaway set in a cove and surrounded by a lush tropical forest. At the back of the resort is a trail that passes through a forest and ends in a private cove. The Lagen trail is one of the best sites for bird watching, where you can see some of the 100 bird species endemic to Palawan.

Meanwhile, El Nido Resort in Miniloc island is also set in a private cove with a backdrop of beautiful limestone cliffs. Miniloc’s charm is highlighted by the surrounding crystal clear waters where you can see an abundance of rich and colorful marine life.

Guests can snorkel alongside 3-foot long groupers and hundreds of sergeant majors, damsel fish, fusiliers, and other multi-colored tropical fishes. Miniloc Island Resort has excellent diving and snorkeling facilities, as well as kayaks, aqua bikes, windsurf, and hobie cat.

The different islands and activity sites in El Nido are easily accessible from Miniloc Island Resort. You can explore big and small lagoons which are a short kayak ride from the resort. .

Coron and Busuanga
The island north of El Nido is Busuanga, the jump-off point for awesome diving spots particularly to see ship wrecks. There are 12 World War II Japanese shipwrecks that sunk in the area of Busuanga which diving enthusiasts should explore. Dive operators in the island offer day diving and snorkeling trips and overnight dive safaris.

Tourists visiting Busuanga will find good weather that is ideal for nature lovers. Diving and hiking are popular activities to do here given the many nature trails, attractions and excellent dive sites available. One place to visit is the Calauit Island Wildlife Sanctuary in Busuanga where one can see endangered animals such as the Palawan bearcat, mouse deer and the scaly anteater found only in the Philippines along with many exotic animals from Africa.

While in Busuanga, you can also visit nearby Coron island where guests must go on a cruise along the Kayangan Lake, the country’s cleanest and greenest lake.

There are many beautiful tropical resorts to stay in Coron. Among them is El Rio y Mar Island Resort located at the charming town of San Jose. Nestled amidst a 500-meter stretch of a pure white sand beach, the resort is an ideal place for honeymooners. Couples will enjoy each other's company while basking in the peaceful sounds of nature. El Rio has an Al Fresco Restaurant which serves Asian and International cuisines, great for romantic dinners.

Also located in the municipality of Coron is Club Paradise in Dimakya island, a perfect tropical hideaway for those seeking quiet times with their partner in life. This island resort has a 700-meter stretch of sun kissed talcum soft white beach and turquoise waters. It also serves as a sanctuary to a variety of flora and fauna.

Couples should try the Club Paradise Island Spa and have a relaxing massage amidst the beautiful surroundings. The resort's Island Spa Virgin Coconut Oil is a signature spa product highly recommended for deeply relaxing body treatments.

Meanwhile, Club Noah Isabelle, found in Apulit island in the northeast of Palawan, is another resort to escape to where cabanas are built above water and have verandahs facing out to the sea. The resort is set on a cove surrounded by a large marine reef.

Club Noah was envisioned to be a sanctuary where man and nature can live together in harmony. Just as Noah's Ark became a refuge for all animals in the Bible, Club Noah seeks to preserve the environment so that the future generations can still enjoy the gifts of nature. The presence of sea birds like the grey reef egrets, the Palawan hornbill and the kingfisher attest to the abundance of fish in the waters surrounding the resort. On land, you will be fascinated to see playful otters and civets minding their own business while you relax and unwind.

However, if you wish to have a private island all to yourself, Amanpulo is the place to visit. Amanpulo resort is an exclusive and stunning private island luxury hideaway, located in beautiful Pamalican Island in Palawan. The island resort has a powdery sand beach and beautiful coral reefs seen only 300 meters from the shore.

Amanpulo is perfect for lovers. It is truly a once in a lifetime experience to stay for a week or two in a beach casita while you are welcomed with champagne. You and your loved one may take a romantic sunset cruise, have a private beach barbecue or get a blissful massage for two. The resort's open-air Garden and Beach Salas are discreetly secluded for pleasurable holistic body treatments.

The island is so exclusive that famous Hollywood stars have been said to visit here as their private tropical getaway. Amanpulo which means ‘peaceful island’ has 40 beach, hillside and treetop casitas which are modelled on authentic bahay kubo dwellings, each with its own golf cart available for island exploration. Turquoise seas, coral reefs and diving, scuba-diving, and cruising opportunities await couples visiting the beautiful islands of Palawan in the north.

Palawan is 586 kilometers southwest of Manila. There are regular airline flights from Manila to Puerto Princesa, the island's capital city, where the main airport is located. You can also get to northern Palawan via the Busuanga Airport or the Coron Port.

Lake Caliraya

Found in the province of Laguna, Caliraya is a man-made lake complete with coves and sand bars. It is approximately 1,200 feet above sea level and is perched high in the Sierra Madre mountains. The famed lake, with its water measuring about 50 meters at its deepest, is actually quite huge as it is situated along three towns of Laguna, namely Lumban, Cavinti, and Kalayaan. The lake was built in 1937 when the Americans flooded Cavinti valley to put up a dam that was envisioned to generate hydro-electric power for Manila. Come the Japanese invasion, the Americans sabotaged the dam. World War II ensued. When the Japanese Imperial Army retreated, they further sabotaged the dam that the lake was lost in obscurity. It was not until the 70s when the lake was rediscovered by developers. It soon became the playground of the rich and famous for fishing, chilling and other water sports. Then in the 80s, the place became a stronghold of the insurgent New People's Army (NPA) that it fell out of favor again. With President Aquino's term in the mid-80s, the lake once again enjoyed peace and order. It did not take long until Manila’s adventure seekers and American expats returned to the lake as a preferred daytrip and weekend destination.

To this date, Caliraya is a haven for tourists who wish to escape the chaos of the metropolis. The lake extends and roves over partly submerged hills which form numerous islands of various shapes and sizes. The biggest island is approximately as big as Luneta Park, while the smallest is about 1 square meter (which usually submerges during high tide). These land masses were formed during the flooding of the lake and all of them remain unnamed. On some of them, visitors can camp for free. Further, with the abundance of pine trees, cool climate, verdant greenery and shores of viscous red clay on some areas and pebbled on other areas, the lake’s surrounding environment has been likened to some North American resorts. And since the lake was seeded by Americans with largemouth black bass imported from the states which continue to proliferate, Caliraya and bodies of water connected to it are the only places in the whole country where Philippine anglers can attempt to catch one of the top freshwater game fishes of the USA—the famed Largemouth Black Bass—providing year-round excitement to game fishers. The onset of tourists has made this lake a recreational center and has even brought some of the country’s elite to build vacation homes here as their private hideaway.

What to do in a day:

The deep waters of the lake and the strong, cold mountain breeze that blows from the Sierra Madre Mountain Ranges and the distant Mt. Banahaw, make it an excellent place for wind surfing, jet skiing, swimming, kayaking, canoeing, water skiing, boating, golf, camping, team building and other sporting adventure activities. These land-based as well as aqua sports are offered by the various resorts surrounding the lake.

One of the best places to spend time with your family or friends is at the Caliraya Re-Creation Center. Where else can you have fun and excitement as well as the pleasure of relaxation and rejuvenation in one destination? Perfect for family excursions and corporate outings or even just a quick getaway from the city, the Caliraya Re-Creation Center can accommodate every kind of traveler. The place offers a wide array of fun activities from water sports like jet skiing and speed boating, windsurfing breaks and ferry boat rides to exhilarating outdoor activities such as horseback riding, wall climbing, rappelling and zipline rides. Caliraya also offers unique amenties such as the Slip n’ Slide, Earth Ball, and team building activities perfect for corporate outings and other group getaways.

They can even prepare tour packages around the province with tours around the Laguna loop and Pagsanjan Falls. For a leisurely pace, you can simply relax under a tree, read a good book and take in as much of the fresh, cool mountain breeze as you want. The Caliraya Re-Creation Center has the best of everything conveniently just a short distance away from the metropolis.

Travel Notes

Caliraya Re-Creation Center
Barangay Lewin, Lumban, Laguna
(63 2) 632 1010

The lake is an ideal place for hobby photographers as well. One can take shots of the lake itself, its old light house or even its surrounding community. One of the historical landmarks of the town for example is the church in Poblacion which was built in the 1700s. Another feature is the Japanese garden located at Brgy. K. Talaongan. A memorial park and burial place of the Japanese soldiers who fought and died in Cavinti during the Second World War and supposedly where the grave of General Yamashita is, the garden functions today as a park, picnic area and playground open for everyone.

How to get there:

Commute from Manila: Board the Sta Cruz-bound bus of HM Transit on EDSA Cubao (near Victory Liner) or Green Star on Taft Ave near corner Gil Puyat/Buendia (LRT). The bus will pass through SLEX Calamba exit then turn right on the national highway in Calamba City, Los Banos, Bay, Victoria, Pila, Sta Cruz. At the terminal in Pagsawitan, Pagsanjan, wait for a jeepney with signboard Lumot or ask a tricycle to bring you to the jeepney terminal in Sta.Cruz to help you get "sure seats."

The Lumot-bound jeepney will pass Pagsanjan, turn left at the "pinagsangahan" (branch off at Pagsanjan church and Municipal Hall) pass by Lumban (barong land), then choose the right road of the fork up to Caliraya Lake. The fork is at the kilometer 95 post. The lake is about 7 kilometers from there.

By private car from Manila: from SLEX take Calamba exit then head straight to Calamba. turn right at Calamba junction and follow this road and highway until you reach Pagsanjan (after Los Banos, Bay, Victoria, Pila, Sta Cruz towns) where you turn left. Choose the right road at the fork near kilometer 95 post.

By private car from Quezon City: it's faster to take the Rizal route by going to Marcos Highway, turn right at the junction Masinag Wet and Dry Market (Sumulong Highway), on reaching Antipolo intersection turn left going to Baras (straight ahead leads to Antipolo Church while a right turn leads to Hinulugang Taktak) where you'll pass by Teresa, Morong, Baras, Tanay, and Pililla towns of Rizal province before reaching Laguna towns of Mabitac, Siniloan, Pangil, Pakil, Paete, Kalayaan, then make a U-turn on seeing kilometer 95 post on the highway. Lake Caliraya is about 7 kilometers from there.

La Cocina de Tita Moning

We live in an impatient world, where time keeps snapping at your heels, threatening to gobble you up whole if you dare to tarry even a few moments. Even in this age of MMS, PDAs, and GPRS, and despite the trend toward flexible schedules and result-oriented means of making a living, it seems like there are hardly enough hours in the day to spare.

The best evidence of this is the pile of fast-food wrappers strewn all over the floor of my car at the end of the day. Receptacles and remnants of siopao, burgers, french fries, and sometimes even fried chicken or spaghetti are fixtures that I often employ to torment unwitting valet drivers (Who said that tips always have to be in cash? Half a hotdog works just as well!). On really bad days, I’ve actually had breakfast, lunch and dinner catered by the three biggest fast-food joints in town (that’s variety for you) and eaten in the middle of traffic or in parking lots, just so I didn’t have to go through the time-consuming inconvenience of sitting down and having a proper meal, with real cutlery, between appointments.

If you think that’s pathetic, you should meet my friend Garet. While I have the luxury of enjoying a decent meal on the few occasions that I find myself at home, she literally lives off straight-from-the-can tuna/corned beef and ice cubes. Even the easiest thing in the world to cook—Bantayan island danggit—is too much of a challenge for her. In the same boat, but not quite as bad, are our friends Jinggay, whose favorite dinner is a bowl of instant just-add-water noodles, and Rhia, a certified junk-food addict. Our combined weekday eating habits are the stuff of gourmands’ worst nightmares.

Thank goodness then for rare opportunities such as this balmy Saturday evening, when the world is willing to stand still long enough to let you savor the company of friends and relish the pleasures of honest-to-goodness slow food. Tonight, even the security situation seems to be cooperating: Malacañang Palace is quiet and the alert appears to be at minimum as we pull into the driveway of 315 San Rafael Street in San Miguel, Manila. A few minutes later, we find ourselves enjoying cold glasses of freshly squeezed dalandan juice and warm melt-in-the-mouth queso de bola toast under the stars, eagerly anticipating the gastronomic experience that lies ahead. While we are in no particular rush, the old habit is quick to kick in. “Hurry up and finish your drinks so we can get on with the tour!”

La Cocina de Tita Moning’s reputation as a dining destination unlike any other has spread fast and furious by word of mouth among Manila’s notoriously fastidious epicures. The Legarda mansion on San Rafael is now open to the public, albeit by reservation only, to showcase the illustrious family’s heritage and history as well as the culinary legacy of Doña Ramona “Tita Moning” Legarda. Built in 1937, the art deco house is where Tita Moning and her husband, Dr. Alejandro Roces Legarda, raised four children and threw unforgettable dinners that gave center stage to Tita Moning’s unparalleled kitchen skills and eye for detail. Suzette Legarda Montinola, a Legarda granddaughter, is now the lady of the house, having spent eight months lovingly restoring the house after the death of her grandmother, thereby preserving its elegant traditions.

The true aperitif is a tour of the Legarda house, which begins downstairs by taking the visitor through areas of interest such as the train room and Dr. Legarda’s clinic with its antiquated apparatuses and resident skeleton. Also displayed is the good doctor’s large collection of antique camera equipment and a number of old photographs that include one of a tree-lined pre-reclamation then-Dewey now-Roxas Boulevard, circa 1930s. On the other side of the hall is the doctor’s library, which houses his collection of medical books and encyclopedias, as well as his dark room.

Up the mahogany staircase are sights no less impressive: the living room features works by such renowned national artists as Felix Resureccion Hidalgo’s “La Inocencia” and Juan Luna’s rendering of a woman once believed to be his murdered wife. To the left of the living room is Don Alejandro’s collection of obsolescent radio gear, acquired over the years of his avid membership with the Philippine Amateur Radio Association. Next door is Tita Moning’s old dressing room, which features a couple of her old gowns and other mementos of ballroom days gone by.

Finally, the dining room. The area is large and handsome, reminiscent of a stately provincial home with its wide windows and high ceiling that welcome in the evening breeze from the garden outside. On the wall is the Legarda collection of blue Meissen plates, each of which is hand-painted and lined with gold, and off which personalities such as William Howard Taft once ate. The table setting is a work of art in its own right: the decorative lace cloths are hoary heirlooms, the china, glassware, and silverware part of the Legarda’s inheritance, and the Murano birds date back to the banquets of the 1920s. But even more significant to the Legarda legacy is Tita Moning’s staff, headed by her faithful cook Rolly Mendros, who continues to recreate her signature dishes in the manner to which the Legardas of generations past and present are accustomed.

“They even have a servant’s bell,” I whisper to Garet as we attempt to act nonchalant amidst the quiet splendor. A note on the table encourages the diner, “in the true fashion that Don Alejandro and Dona Ramona dined,” to use the bell as “your needs dictate.” A little too feudal for our U.P.-bred dispositions, but a charming Old World concept nonetheless.

The uniformed server, after pouring the wine, then brings out the first course: an exquisitely creamy pumpkin soup appropriately named Sopa de Oro...liquid gold indeed! From across the table I can see Rhia’s eyes roll back in sheer ecstasy, while Jinggay mutters one word over and over again during the entire meal. “Sarap!” I resist the urge to mop up the dregs at the bottom of my plate and content myself with loading my bread with the best salsa monja a Spanish friar could ever dream of.

The Grilled Eggplant Salad with Homemade Vinaigrette sounds unassuming enough, but once on our plates and taste buds, proves unlike any talong, er, aubergine recipe we’ve ever come across. Jinggay repeats her mantra as the rest of us dig into the subtly sweet-sour ensalada and argue about Filipino synonyms for the word “delicious” (for a country that loves its food, sarap seems to be the only one that fits the bill). Aling Tining Techo, who has been with the Legarda family since 1971, encourages us to request second or even third servings of any dish at any time, just as if we were at our grandparents’ home, enjoying Sunday supper. But with all due respect to my own gourmet cook of a grandmother, no dinner at Lola’s was ever like this!

After calamansi sorbet clears our palates, our gustatory senses are treated to Tita Moning’s famous Solomillo, tender roast beef in an indescribably flavorful gravy, accompanied by perfectly baked potatoes still bubbling in their jackets. If there was ever a meal to write home about (and if home wasn’t only a few miles away), this would definitely be it. By this time, the only sound even Jinggay can manage is a contented groan. I admonish Garet , who seems to have had her fill way too prematurely, to eat up. “Tomorrow, when you open that can of pork and beans, you’ll be drooling at the memory of this place.”

But the meal is far from over. Dessert, a three-course meal in itself, begins with a fruit tray (“Maski saging masarap!” Rhia gushes), followed by Caramelized Saba Bananas with Vermouth. And the finale is Tita Moning’s pièce de résistance, her famous bread pudding with caramelized pili nuts…not just “sarap,” but sinfully sublime. Loath to head back into the madcap metropolis and its insane impatience, we linger over coffee and tea, adding our compliments to a photo album/guest book of satisfied La Cocina guests. But as the evening grows old and we are reminded of the next appointment on our calendars, we drag our feet downstairs and say our goodbyes to Suzette and staff, murmuring our newfound appreciation of the satisfaction only an evening of slow food can bring. Our Philistine palates have been ruined for life—no wonder I’ve been weeping into my not-so-Happy-Meals these past few days!

La Cocina de Tita Moning
315 San Rafael St., San Miguel, Manila
(63 2) 734 2146 / 734 2141
www.lacocinadetitamoning.com

All lunches and dinners are strictly by reservation.

The Masskara Festival

It’s odd to find Spidey’s mask on Bacolod’s streets but there it is, a mere plastic item sold from a pushcart at the biggest annual festival this side of Negros Occidental. Spiderman, however, is just a minor celebrity at the Masskara Festiival on the weekend nearest October 19 (which, incidentally, is Bacolod City’s Charter Day). The term “masskara” literally means “many faces,” and during a fun festival such as this, expect to be surrounded by many merry countenances portrayed in papier-mache or face paint.

Making a scene
The genteel surrounding of Negros Occidental have produced their respective crops of (nonsuperher) celebrities. Commercial model slash actor Christian Vasquez, actor Joel Torre and controversial film director Erik Matti are famous Negrenses. But Bacolod’s pride could very well be director Peque Gallaga, whose film opus Oro Plata Mata is set against the background of his hometown’s palpitating sugar plantations and stately haciendas. The sugar industry here may have been severely affected by the plunge in world sugar prices many years back, but the Masskara Festival’s inception in the 1980’s gave the place a much-needed sugar fix.

Smile City
Now to unveil the true identity of the Masskara Festival itself. The merry masks certainly reflect the locals’ love for fun, yet behind the masks they’re very sweet folks, gentle in speech and living. Then again, Masskara is Marfi Gras in October, complete with bustling fairs and wild street dancing. With so many hyperactive tourists and natives running around in all those masks with sunny expressions, mothers might as well caution their kids, “No more sugar for you.”

Speaking of food, there are many kiosks at the parade site, featuring such native specialties as Bacolod chicken inasal and sugary pastries like otap and piaya.

Shopping here is a great idea, since Bacolod has always been known for decorative and functional crafts such as lamps, candleholders, gift boxes and writing tablets with creative twists. And lest we forget, it’s a must to take home one or more smiles.

If you go the distance and put on a mask yourself at the festival, you’ll find that looking its peepholes gives the genuine pleasure of anonymity in the midst of revelry. That way you can fully appreciate the parade and the street dancing without any self-consciousness or fear of being recognized for the celebrity that you happen to be (or not to be). So put on that masked smiley face and enjoy!

Hot Air Balloon Festival

The recently concluded 14th Philippine International Hot-Air Balloon Festival held on February 12-15, 2009 at Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga created a real “monster” but was quick to congratulate the Department of Tourism for initiating the first air-sporting event in 1994, according to one foreigner, Charles Kemplin, one of the key officials of a local map-producing company here in Clark.

The comment was made when commuters and motorists were caught in a monstrous traffic jam early Saturday morning at the start of the third day of ballooning. The upswelling of more than 15,000 spectators on a perfect Saturday morning from all over the Metro Manila and North Luzon areas was virtually unprecedented to the current organizer Clark Development Corporation and the Philippine Balloon Foundation. People swelled so big because the day before was Friday the 13th when most people choose to stay closer to home. In spite of this, all things went well for the organizers and the general public.

This year’s festival was highlighted by the presence of special-shaped balloons like Coca Cola, elephant, two coffee mugs by Nescafe and DSV, a telephone booth, Tiger and Kellogg’s balloons. The rest are the regular-shaped ones. Altogether, some 24 balloons took part in this year’s event.

At midday during the festival, a revelry of special aerosports events like sky diving, aeromodelling, airplane rally, AFP flag jump, paragliding, Marine drum and bugle exhibition, aerobatics, ultralight fly-by, rocket demonstration, PAF silent drill and marching band. A special treat for the public was offered in the evening when the balloons are fired up and transformed into luminous giant lanterns or incandescent bulbs. Some 200 trade exhibitors and food stalls kept the spectators on their toes while watching the air-sporting events amidst the scorching heat of the sun.

The only ballooning event in the country was first made possible by the Department of Tourism under Secretary Mina Gabor when she commissioned in 1994 two balloon pilots from Korea and England, Sung Kee Paik and John Emery, respectively, to mount what was to become the biggest and most colourful spectacle in the country, with regional director Ronnie Tiotuico of the regional office in Central Luzon as the event organizer then.

Since then, Clark Development Corporation took up the cudgels for the tourism department as an assurance of sustainability for this project.

Weaving History: T’Boli Craft in Davao

To experience an authentic tribal tradition, one must visit the T’boli Weaving Center, located within the grounds of the Insular Hotel in Lanang, Davao City. Traditional arts, crafts, and skills are demonstrated by the tribal women of the “Bola Tribe” from South Cotabato. The tribe is known for its colorful attire made from the “tinalak” cloth. The women in the center are shown dyeing the abaca fibers and then weaving these with the intricate figures and patterns depicting the tribes folklore and religion. The art is proudly passed on from generation to generation. Visitors can buy the tribal jewelry and the tinalak cloth at the center. Also available are tribal costumes, enhanced by beads and leather plus other accessories like bags, belts, trees and wallets.

A Hamlet in the Mountains

Every artist needs an escape—a place of imagination that inspires original creation. He should feel motivated and stimulated by the brilliance of his surroundings. At the same time, the place should nurture his creations. It would be his natural “artistic environment”. For the artisans in Baguio, such a creative place does exist. Nestled in the northern part of the city, the Tam - Awan Village is a haven for the local artists and the free-spirited.

The Tam-Awan Village is a must in any Baguio visit. The village was created by the Chanum Foundation Inc. which is headed by one of the country’s national artists, Ben Cabrera. The place starts with an eco-tour with long rocky stairs leading up to the main village. It is surrounded by tall trees and pines decorated with flora and fauna found within the mountain provinces. When entering the Dap-ay (stone-paved gathering place), one can see the beautifully reconstructed Ifugao houses surrounding the main square.

What used to be a small hillside parked with used Cordillera tribal huts now acts as a unique mountain village. The wooden Ifugao houses that are scattered around the village are a marvel. They look simple from the outside but how they were structurally-made by the Ifugaos are beyond belief. Each wooden hut belonged to a tribe from the Cordillera region. They were made without the help of any nails or hardware. Furnished with only fresh cogon roofing, the huts still serve their purpose. Visitors can actually stay overnight in the reconstructed huts for a fee. Staying in any of these huts is a great way to experience how the mountain people lived in the past.

Already rich with culture, Tam-Awan is also overflowing with talent. The village holds exhibits, art fairs and many other events that showcase the works of different artists. The huts provide visitors an organic venue for viewing the artwork. Part museum, part art gallery, the works that are displayed here are also being sold to those interested.

The village not only centers itself on showcasing the talents of its members but also provides a venue for people to learn. It holds a number of workshops on the different kinds of art done inside the village – from Basic and Advance Drawing, Printmaking, Solar Drawing, Painting, and more. The village also has a coffee shop that acts as a specialty store that sells custom-made wooden clocks, paintings, wood carvings, wooden and metal amulets and necklaces, and other native crafts surrounding the place.

When entering the Dap-Ay, you can normally see people hanging around the bonfire area. Don’t be surprised if they greet you all of a sudden! They are the artists who frequent the place. They might even offer you a drink or two of wine. On the southeast side of the square is an open-walled hut were local artists offer sketch portraits for a minimum of Php 100.00 or 300.00 for couples—a good souvenir to take home.

Before the sun starts to set, you can climb up to the view decks of the village. Enjoy the cool mountain air while experiencing the totality of the place. Walk through a narrow bamboo bridge which really makes you feel how the tribal people of the Cordilleras lived in the mountains. The view deck gives you a spectacular view of the mountain ranges. If you are lucky you may even get to see a clear view of the China Sea.

A small world of creative awakening inspired by nature’s creations, the Tam-Awan Village is one of the mountains’ most precious hidden gems.

Travel Notes
How to get there
By Jeep: Take the ride from Quezon Hill to Tam-Awan or you can take the jeep going to Long-long which passes by Tam-Awan.

By Taxi: Ask the driver to take you to Tam-Awan, Pinsao Proper.

CHANUM FOUNDATION, INC.
Tam-awan Village
366-C Pinsao Proper,
Baguio City
(63 74) 446 2949
(63 74) 442 5551

Purple Feet

Location: Inside the Wine Depot on 217 N. Garcia St. (former Reposo), Bel-Air, Makati City

Hours Open: Monday to Saturday 10am to 10pm, closed on Sundays

Cost: Expect to spend P600 to P2,000 but it’s well worth it and the servings are large enough to share

Imagine having your own personal iron chef wherein you tell him the raw ingredients then specifying the flavor you like: Japanese, Italian, Indian, Filipino, or any distinct taste in the world that hasn’t been infiltrated by the Taliban. On top of that, he pairs your choice with the proper wine while discussing with the subtle differences in the sauces he will use. All of this could be yours at a place with an unusual name - Purple Feet, named after the color they get after squashing grapes. The worldly experienced executive chef Marco Legasto created this unique “freestyle cooking” concept with the support of his United Nations chefs who each specialize in a particular cuisine. With no powders or monosodium glutamate in sight, the kitchen prepares everything from scratch. With the staff coming in wearing shorts, this place is fine dining without the fuzz or the exorbitant prices. For selfish reasons, I’d rather keep this place a secret but it’s too late now that I’ve divulged the address.

For reservations call (63 2) 897 3220.

Creamy Desserts Overwhelm Diners At Tivoli

The Tivoli’s latest innovation, with the use of a liquid nitrogen, is set to once again revolutionize food concepts and preparation, and is a perfect complement to the trend setting gourmet cuisine served at Mandarin Oriental, Manila’s signature restaurant.

The dazzling properties of liquid nitrogen enhance the dining experience at The Tivoli, as diners are given the choice to design their own ice cream, frozen yoghurt and sherbert concoction that are freshly prepared at tableside, with the flavours and ingredients of their choice. In the process, the diner witnesses the instant freezing of his chosen flavours. The aromas of the ingredients, whether it’s vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, fresh fruit, cookies or brownies, hit the senses almost immediately and entice one’s palate. The smoky effect of the Liquid Nitrogen produces a dazzling display of instant freezing of the dessert. The result is a softer, creamier texture of ice cream due to the chemical properties of the Liquid Nitrogen, as well as the instant freezing.

Guests can choose from different ice cream bases such as vanilla, chocolate, plain yoghurt, seasonal fruit purees, sugar syrup or lime/ lemon syrup. They can then add condiments, and flavours like nut sauces, nougat, truffle oil, nuts, chocolate flakes, raisins, brownies, cookies, fruits, herbs, mint oil and marzipan. Perhaps they would also like to kick up their dessert a notch by mixing in spirits such as sherry, Baileys, rum, vodka, Cointreau or Grand Marnier.

The Tivoli, Makati’s premier elegant fine-dining restaurant in Mandarin Oriental Manila , is known for its gourmet creations and splendid wines, artfully selected by its team of connoisseurs. The Liquid Nitrogen Life Station is yet another creative, delicious addition to the menu.

Mandarin Oriental Manila
Makati Avenue, Makati City
(63 2) 750 8888
www.mandarinoriental.com

Kape Isla

Location: Serendra, Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.

Hours Open: Sunday to Thursday from 12noon to 11pm, Friday and Saturday 12noon to 12midnight.

Cost: Average price for hot coffee drinks P75/P100, cold coffee drinks average P130, comedy entertainment is free

No man is an island, and there is no better beverage to bring us together than good coffee. Kape Isla, which literally translates to Coffee Island, is an advocate for Philippine-grown coffee beans, some of the best in the world. Though I’m more of a pearl milk tea drinker (with taro), I was awakened by the delicious aromas of the cold coffee specialties they serve in this intimate café: coffee chocnut shake, coffee cookies and cream, coffee crumble shake, and coffee milk shake. For the traditionalists they also serve local kape Americano, kape cappuccino, kape latte, and kape mocha. Kape Isla holds workshops and courses for aspiring baristas, coffee growers, and budding coffee connoisseurs. So if you ever want to connect with humanity, come on over and enjoy a cup. I heard Wednesday is a good night since they have comedy open mic.

For reservations or inquiries call (63 2) 901 3485.

Courtyard Bistro

There are times when you want to celebrate endlessly in Boracay’s nightlife but there are times when you also want to relax, dine out with close friends, eat great food and have a good time. A short distance away from the crowding white beach is this enchanting little corner on the other side of the island. Welcome to the Lazy Dog Bed and Breakfast and enter their cozy little Courtyard Bistro.

Start with the Spicy Shrimp Gambas seasoned with chilis and secret spices (you won’t stop eating them!) Next, be tempted to taste their mouth-watering Tenderloin Beef Salpicado, Dori Fish with Lemon Butter Sauce with a side of Mashed Potatoes and their signature dish, Fish on a Nest (fish fillet with stuffed ham, mushrooms, turnips, bell peppers, onions & garlic, on a potato string nest). Engorging yet satisfying. When you think you’ve have enough just wait for their dessert selections. Try their sinful “For Adults” Pistachio Ice Cream…it’s gonna blow you away.

The Courtyard Bistro
Lazy Dog Bed & Breakfast, Palomar, Bulabog Beach, Boracay Island
(63 36) 288 4128

CAV

Location: Ground Floor “The Spa Bldg”, Bonifacio High Street, Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.

Hours Open: Weekdays from 12 noon to late evening, weekends 12 noon to 2ish a.m. depending on the intoxication of the crowd.

Cost: a wine flight composed of 3 glasses of different wines runs around P520; a three-course prefixed dining menu with paired wine, P890; and a four-course meal with paired wine, P1,100. Cost of your date not included.

Cav, derived from the French word “le cave”, meaning wine cellar and not from the young bovine or the flesh on the back of your shin, is the result of three concepts combined into one: a café by day, a full-blown dining establishment at night - though not necessarily fine dining - and a full time retail wine shop. Do not be intimidated by its posh interior and hard-to-pronounce bottles; Cav’s approach is to take away the elitism in wine tasting, as evidenced by its non-threatening card operated vending machines that dispense three serving sizes: tasting size, half glass, and full glass for the optimists. But if you’d like to impress the ladies by sounding like a sommelier, Cav offers weekly wine lectures called Wine Informal on Saturday afternoons. You know what they say, women are like wine – they age to perfection. Just avoid the ones from 1970 - that was a bitter year.

For reservations call (63 2) 856 1798 or visit www.cavwine.com.

Chef Laudico Bistro Filipino

Location: Ground Floor Net 2 Bldg., 3rd Avenue, Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.

Hours Open: Everyday lunch 11am to 3pm, dinner 6pm to 11pm.

Cost: Average price P500 to P700 for lunch, P800 to P1000 for dinner

Traditional Filipino food is usually served wrapped in banana leaves and wrapped again in newspaper and wrapped again in “smotherly” love. Filipinos are no-frills eaters devouring with their bare hands while one foot rests on their seat to support their arm. So glamorized Pinoy food was unheard of… until Chef Laudico was born or maybe a few decades after since he would’ve been too young to use fire. Chef Lau’s creative genius cooked up concoctions such as the sisig basket, which is spicy pork sisig in mini crispy rice baskets with quail’s egg and chicharon, pork rind (P228) and the Angus beef tapa, which is oven dried Angus beef tapa served with tomato stuffed with pinakurat gel and salted egg salsa (P248). That’s just the tip of the exotic iceberg of this native gastronomy that changes every month based on Chef Lau’s innovative mood.

For reservations call (63 2) 856 0634 / 0541, mobile (63 917) 800 CHEF(2433), email cheflaudico@yahoo.com.

Basilio's

Location: Unit 151 Forbeswood Heights, Rizal Drive cor 29th St., Fort Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.

Hours Open: Weekdays from 11 a.m. to 12 midnight, weekends 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Cost: Average price of main entrées P380, shakes and juices P120, desserts P180, cocktails P220, hang over the next morning P00.00.

With a name that evokes an image of a deranged woman looking for her children, Basilio’s is the place for comfort food and the comfort of good company but not for comfort women. This cozy two-storey neighborhood restaurant offers free Wi-Fi, free cable TV, free valet parking, and the best 50-clove garlic chicken this side of town. It’s the perfect place for a simple dinner with friends or spending the late afternoon partaking in a molten chocolate cake while sipping a refreshing peach shake and reading a good book like Noli Me Tangere. In June, there will be an intimate standup comedy show by this very funny comic by the name of Tim Tayag who shamelessly plugs his shows in his articles.

For reservations call (63 2)856 1742.

Attivo

Location: 101 Aguirre St., Legaspi Village, Makati City

Hours Open: Monday to Friday 8am to 10pm, weekends open upon reservation

Cost: Prices range from P120 to P355, more affordable than the franchise coffee shops. Venue is open for private parties or conferences with a maximum of 50 pax.

With the increasing number of franchise cafes serving overpriced cappuccinos and mispronouncing your name, Attivo, which is Italian for “asset” or “active” or “tv recorder”, comes as a refreshing alternative. This warm neighborhood café serves pasta dishes and desserts with that rare home-cooked taste attributed to the personal touch of the owner Kat, who is there almost everyday. Attivo’s assets are the kofta burger with calamari, the seafood pasta, the carrot cake with just the right creaminess, and the killer Kahlua chocolate cake. Kat, a self-taught chef and baker from her college days where she sold her cookies and cakes without the girl scout uniform, keeps the place “real” as she makes the effort to know her customers. Just don’t ask her the secret ingredient to her Kahlua cake because she won’t tell, I tried.

For reservations call (63 2) 812 5592.

Saramsam Cafe

All Filipinos love food. From sinigang to nilaga, longganisa to tapa, suman to puto, our native dishes certainly have rich flavors. The Filipino also eats whenever he can! In every celebration, food is the island man’s main invitation to his guest. And every meal is the merriment that brings friends and family together. This may be the reason why Mr. Sammy Blas, an Ilocano restaurateur, decided to create Saramsam Café; a place brimming with Ilocano flavors and tradition.

I came in with my host, Mr. Joegie Jimenez, and his team from the Provincial Tourism Office. We were hungry from our tour of the city. I requested my host to take me to different establishments that provide an experience of rich Ilocano taste and heritage, and when he brought me here, he did not fail me. When I entered the Saramsam Café, I knew I was going to enjoy my time in this cozy little nook in the heart of Laoag. Different antiques for tables and chairs, colored bottles, vases, and antique pieces were situated around the room. The place was bursting with charm.

As we waited for our lunch, Sir Joegie filled me in about the restaurant. The Ilocano word, Saramsam means “pika-pika” or finger food. He explained that Ilocanos love to eat every time; a true Filipino nature. As I observed the place, it was filled with families and friends eating and laughing wholeheartedly as if the restaurant was their dining area. I felt the same way because we were a big group just waiting for our Ilocano feast.

The first dishes to arrive were the Saramsam Chips (chips with a dip of diced mango, onions, tomatoes and cilantro) and the freshly fried ukoy (small shrimps fried in batter served with vinegar) all a mixture of color and local taste.

Next was the Saramsam Pasta (spaghetti noodles cooked in olive oil, fresh tomatoes, green and ripe mangoes, onions and cilantro topped with parmesan cheese). This dish took me by surprise. Back home, we used the same ingredients (without the noodles) as an appetizer, but in Saramsam, it was a whole new concoction! It just goes to show how deliciously creative the people are in Ilocos.

The Gamet Soup was my favorite. It is a hot medley of Ilocano flavor mixed with seaweeds, the major product in Burgos, a municipality in Ilocos Norte. I finished my soup bowl as soon as it was given to me. Next were the stuffed squid and the Insarabsab (grilled pork) to complete the traditional dishes.

I thought we were done with lunch. I didn’t realize that the best was yet to come. The waiter served us their signature food, the Dinuguan Pizza and the Poque-Poque Pizza. At first I thought that it was really weird to combine local food and pizza. Good thing I was wrong. The Dinuguan Pizza was the first to come. Like its predecessor, the dish is made with pork meat cooked in blood and vinegar, this time served in flat bread and tomato sauce. The Poque-Poque Pizza is another invention; eggplant cooked with tomato sauce, herbs and spices. I noticed the other customers eyeing our dishes, and in a heartbeat, we shared our dishes to them, like friends among friends sharing and enjoying a meal.

Food is the product of our rich heritage; it is a symbol of life. With the mixture of dishes, atmosphere and Ilocano people in Saramsam Café, it is very certain that the celebration of Filipino tradition will still live on.

Travel Notes
Saramsam Café is located at N. Corpuz Bldg., along Rizal Street (in front of Texicano hotel) Barangay 7-A, Laoag City.

Devarana Spa: Garden in Heaven

The moment I walked into Devarana Spa’s awe-inspiring entrance, I ran out of superlatives for this was the best urban spa I’ve ever seen. This place is nothing short of spa-ctacular (pardon the cheese). Devarana (pronounced te-wa-run), which is a Thai-sanskrit word meaning “garden in heaven”, lives up to its blissful name. The legend of this mythical garden dates back to ancient Thai literature. It is described as being situated at heaven’s gate surrounded by ponds, silver, gold, and filled with natural stones and gems. True enough, my experience at this spa was out of this world.

The automatic doors at the entrance lead you to a hallway flanked by water-fountain walls that commence your journey to relaxation. Just like Thai people, the friendly staff greets you with a warm smile, a respectful Thai bow, and a genuine dedication to putting you in good spirits. With the menu in hand, the knowledgeable personnel explain each treatment the way someone introduces you to an old friend. The oils are brought out for your nose’s approval almost like choosing a dressing for your salad, which in this case is your body. Oh, and you get ginger tea and a warm fragrant wet towel to refresh you while you wait for your therapist.

The treatment rooms are spacious enough to accommodate you, your partner, your therapists, two cars, and the rest of your extended family. One room is actually bigger than my whole condominium unit. Clients get spoiled with a large bathtub, private bathrooms, ample closet space, two massage beds, and a feeling of detachment from the hustle and bustle of city life. Their attention to detail really impressed me as they perceptively placed tangy fruits on the bottom of the beds so your nasal passages and neuron connections are kept clear. Even the disposable underwear they provided was very comfortable, which I find personally disturbing.

The highly skilled masseuses gently stroke your muscles with soothing purpose. I was lucky enough to get the Devarana Massage, which combines several different massage techniques from East and West. My mind meandered between wakefulness and sleep as I imagined myself on a beautiful beach in Thailand not ever going back to work. The pressure applied on my bulging muscles was perfect – hard but slow and deep. The treatment ended after 90 minutes of ecstasy. I wanted more but my earthly body was bound by time and a duty to write.

After my wedding, I plan to visit all the Devarana Spas located in Bangkok, Pattaya, Hua Hin, and Chang Mai. I now have more excuses to visit Thailand on top of loving their food. The only dilemma Devarana has given me is from now on, everything else is just second best.

Spa Travel Notes

Devarana Spa
Dusit Thani Manila
Ayala Center, Makati City
(63 2) 818 7081
manila@devaranaspa.com
www.devaranaspa.com

Other treatments:
Ayuverdic Head Massage (60 mins) PHP 2,900
Ginger Compress and Back Massage (60 mins) PHP 2,900
Reflexology Foot Massage (60 mins) PHP 2,900
Aromatic Detoxified and Countoured Massage (90 mins) PHP 3,700
Devarana Massage (90 mins) PHP 4,100
Swedish Massage (90 mins) PHP 3,700
Traditional Herbal Compress and Thai Massage (90 mins) PHP 3,700

Packages
Living Radiance (2.0 hrs) PHP 5,200
Devarana Touch (2.5 hrs or 3.0 hrs) PHP 7,100/7,700
Travellers Recovery Pack (2.5 hrs) PHP 8,100
Pure Pleasure (3.5 hrs) PHP 10,200
Half Day Harmony (5.0 hrs) PHP 12,600 per person, PHP 24,000 per couple

In addition to individual spa treatments, Devarana Spa offers several spa programs that are excellent values for regular spa goers. Among them are VIP Premium, Wellness Rewards, and Devarana Membership that offers a full range of benefits from Devarana Spa, such as complimentary treatments and special discounts, plus a whole lot of priveleges at Dusit Thani and dusitD2 hotels.

Aloha Palawan

Harassed by deadlines, I set off for Palawan to do something about my chaotic state of mind and find peace in a distant island where no professional problem can reach me.

After an hour’s flight from Manila, my companion and I arrive at the Puerto Princesa domestic airport where I am immediately greeted by the staff of the Dos Palmas Resort in Arreceffi Island. It takes another 20-minute drive to the port and 50-minute boat ride through Honda Bay before I finally catch a glimpse of wooden cottages standing on stilts above the water. This will be my sanctuary for the weekend.

I have to say that the attention given to every guest is impressive. Since the use of all the resort facilities is free, the management gives their guests individual suggested itineraries to ensure that everyone has the utmost fun during their stay at Dos Palmas. My itinerary is good, but one more thing needs to be added to the list… a massage.

Mentally and physically tired, I desperately need to quiet my mind, calm my senses and restore my body to health. After a whole day of exploring the resort, savoring the extremely delicious food and enjoying the affordable yet perfectly mixed (or shaken?) cocktails, I make my way to the spa.
Everytime I visit a spa, I mentally rate the treatment I receive. I am neither a spa critic nor a real expert in every different type of massage known to man but I have been to quite a number of spas and I can tell whether I was given a good wellness experience or not. Fortunately, since the Philippines is establishing its position as one of Asia’s wellness hubs, most of the country’s destinations spas never fail to please. My mental rate sheet is filled with 9’s and 8’s for establishments that provide a great feeling before, during and after a treatment. Passing by other guests who are busy entertaining themselves by playing billiards or hanging out at the bar, I wonder what the resort’s spa has to offer me in terms of relaxation, comfort and calmness.

The Paranarian Spa is nestled in the middle of lush gardens. Though it is only a short walk away from the restaurant which is almost always full of people, it is tucked away in its own quiet place. I am immediately greeted at the entrance and led to the treatment room. Newly renovated, Paranarian has several private treatments rooms, each one having its own bathroom. The shower rooms have no ceiling so at night, you can enjoy a bath under the starry sky.

The Paranarian Spa has just introduced their new treatments, including their new signature massage using Lomi Lomi, a unique massage derived from the native healers of Hawaii. It is grounded in Hawaii’s native healing philosophy called Huna. The Hawaiians believe in energy flow and how it can be blocked by thoughts and even muscle tension. Lomi Lomi releases these blockages, allowing the energy to flow freely. This practice is believed to provide holistic healing. The traditional practitioners of Lomi Lomi in Hawaii believed in using loving hands and a loving heart in the treatment, that’s why Lomi Lomi is also called “flowing hands of love.”
The native Hawaiians start Lomi Lomi with hands gently placed on the client’s body while quietly saying a blessing or prayer for healing. I’m not sure if my therapist is doing the same thing, but as I lie face down on the bed, I feel a light and warm touch across my back as if my body is being introduced to the hands that will take all my worldly cares away for the next 90 minutes. A total feeling of calmness envelopes me and I surrender to this Hawaiian practice that is about to give me a wellness experience unlike any other.

Absolutely perfect. These two words are in my mind as I feel the therapist go over my back and focus on exactly the right places. In Lomi Lomi, the forearms, knuckles and elbows are used to relieve the muscles of all its aches and pains. Long, fluid strokes run across my back and though this feeling of sheer bliss almost detaches me from the real world, I manage to stay half-awake. This is one of those rare moments where I choose reality over dreams.

Eucalyptus-scented virgin coconut oil fills the air and I feel my therapist giving careful attention to my shoulder blades. This massage seems as if it was designed especially for me. My other spa journeys are good, but most often than not, just when the therapist touches an aching spot, she shifts to another place, leaving my muscles screaming in frustration. My past treatments are still great over-all, but absolutely nothing can compare to Paranarian’s Lomi Lomi. All throughout the treatment, I receive just the right stroke in just the right place at the just the right time.

My 90 minutes is up, but I am not disappointed. I have no idea how or where my energy flows, but after my head to toe healing massage, I check myself. Yup, it must be in the right place. I feel completely renewed and happy. Paranarian Spa will make the Hawaiians proud.

I think of Manila and all its noise. I think of work and all my deadlines. Somehow, I am ready to embrace them all. As I walk back to my room, I review my mental rate sheet. In it, the Paranarian Spa in Dos Palmas Resort shines with a perfect ten.

Spa Travel Notes

Paranarian Spa
Dos Palmas Arreceffi Island Resort
Puerto Princesa City, Palawan
www.dospalmas.com.ph

Palawan Office:
89 Lacao St., Puerto Princesa City
(63 48) 434 3118

Manila Office:
Unit 1005 Antel Global Corporate Center
Julia Vargas Ave., Ortigas Center,
Pasig City
(63 2) 637 4226

Paranarian means "a place to rest" in Cuyunon, a dialect in Palawan. The spa is located in the middle of lush gardens with a grand view of the endless open sea.

How to Get There
Domestic airlines have daily flights from Manila to Puerto Princesa. From the Puerto Princesa airport, the Dos Palmas staff will take you on a 20-minute drive to the Sta. Lourdes Wharf on Honday Bay where you will board the boat that will take you to the resort.

The Perfect Spa Prescription

“Live blood analysis?”

Genny Puno, from the Sales and Marketing department of the Amezcua Wellness Centre, laughs heartily over the phone. It’s a laugh that indicates she’s received this reaction before from first-timers at Amezcua, and that’s exactly what I am. Jeni has recommended two treatments for me to try: the Anti-Aging Hydra-Mineral Body Wrap (Amezcua’s signature spa treatment) and a Live Blood Analysis.

The wrap sounds appealing for sure – who wouldn’t enjoy a luxurious treatment like that? The live blood analysis, on the other hand sounds… interesting.

Good thing I don’t mind needles.

The Temple of Wellness
Up until today, I couldn’t quite grasp the idea of a medical spa. Does that mean that the spa would have the antiseptic feel of a hospital lobby? Are the treatment rooms decorated with IV stands and x-ray plates? Would I have to receive my wrap on a gurney? People generally balk at the thought of having to visit a hospital, so the medical slant of this spa is intriguing, to say the least.

The lobby and receiving area of Amezcua smells pleasantly of peppermint oil, and not of cleaning agents. Great sign. Scanning the menu of services at the front desk of the Amezcua Wellness Centre, I’m amazed at the comprehensiveness of treatments they offer.

They’re divided into three menus – one for spa treatments, another for medical treatments and one for fitness. I find it amazing that one can have colonic hydrotherapy in the same establishment as the “Serenity Seaweed Wrap”.

Soon, Jeni comes in to welcome me, and her enthusiasm is even more palpable in person. “We are the first modern, urban medical spa,” she says.

Amezcua focuses on three main components of wellness – medical, fitness and spa treatments. The centre advocates preventive health and alternative medicine, which means they offer services that strengthen one’s immune system through natural ways.

Many of these are alternative options to conventional medical treatments. That’s not to say that they don’t believe in modern Western medical techniques – quite the opposite. Amezcua’s services are meant to be complementary to these. The wellness centre is staffed with medical supervisors and specialists. For them, marrying the conventional with the alternative means having the best of both worlds.

Fascination Meets Relaxation
Nurse Annabelle Macapagal primes me up for my Live Blood Analysis. The good-humored nurse’s eyes sparkle as she leads me through the procedure. It really is quite simple – a tiny sample of my blood is extracted from my right ring finger, placed over a thin slide of glass, and put under a microscope. Here comes the fun part - a TV monitor is hooked up to the microscope so I can see my blood platelets floating around.

The sight is fascinating – I’ve never had the chance to examine my blood up close! Nurse Annabelle shares my amazement. I can tell she’s enjoying this as much as I am.

Fun fact: twenty-four different blood cell variations can be observed from one single speck of blood, ranging from normal to other variations that can indicate weaknesses in one’s system. One can very easily spot these irregularities by simply watching the monitor. Normal blood cells are round, uniform and single. They should be floating serenely in a sea of plasma.

Hypnotized by the movement of my blood cells, Nurse Annabelle breaks my reverie. We do spot a few irregularities – Nurse Annabelle spots some green, shard-like pieces over some of my blood cells. She explains that these indicate uric acid, but all in all, she sounds pleased. My blood looks good, considering some of my less than savory habits. “Your blood’s not toxic!” she says. Non-toxic blood – definitely the best news I’ve heard all week.

I’m brought to another room where there are mats laid out over the beds. Inside the mats are flat squares of jade. What I’m about to experience is the Jade Mat Therapy. This is recommended for those who experience back pains. According to alternative medicine, jade has properties that improve circulation.

I’m made to dress in a hospital gown and lie down on the jade mat, which is activated by plugging it into a wall socket. In a matter of seconds, I feel a pleasantly warm, tingly sensation emanating from underneath me.

I doze off, but later, another nurse named Tina comes in with a box containing fifteen bell-shaped glass pieces, varying in size. These are used for a treatment called Korean Bu-hang. This treatment is used to check blood circulation. The glass pieces are suctioned onto specific areas on my back – over my neck (nervous system), over the left and right upper part of my body (heart and lungs), the lower back (colon and reproductive organs). Any discoloration indicates a possible organ weakness. Some clients find the treatment a bit uncomfortable, as the suction may leave a slight sting, but I’m still lying on the jade mat and I’m just a happy camper.

Wrap Me Up in Clovers…or Volcanic Ash
I’m coasting on tranquility after the Jade Mat Treatment and the Korean Bu-hang, then I remember I’ve still yet to experience Amezcua’s signature spa treatment – the Anti-Aging Hydra-Mineral Body Wrap. First I spend thirty minutes chilling in the wet area – luxuriating in the Jacuzzi, the steam room and the sauna. Then I take a quick warm shower. The side jets are an added feature, but it soon turns into sensation overload, so I decide against it.
The wrap and scrub treatment room is unbelievable. In the middle of the room is a high bed made of a slab of stone. I feel like a goddess about to be pampered.

Amezcua has developed the Anti-Aging Hydra-Mineral Body Wrap to rejuvenate and hydrate one’s skin. Ingrid, my therapist, starts off with a soothing honey and sugar scrub. I am told that honey has anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties, while the sugar gently exfoliates. By the time Ingrid is through smoothing the mixture over me, I am tempted to take licks off my skin.

Once the scrub is rinsed off, it’s now time for the hydra-mineral wrap. I’m covered in Bentonite clay, which helps lifts impurities and helps revitalize the skin. The clay is smoothed all over my body and over my face. Ingrid lathers on some aloe vera-based conditioning formula for my hair. Then, she wraps my body in the special plastic sheet I’m lying on and she lets me stew for thirty minutes.

The sensation of being covered from face to toes with Bentonite ash is oddly comforting. In my cocoon-like state, I drift off into another beautiful sleep and let the volcanic ash work its stuff.

Waking Up to Wellness
If wellness starts from within, then why stop at just Shiatsu and Swedish massages? Go further by cleansing your body of toxic elements! If you can get rid of the toxic in your life in a beautiful, serene, and relaxing environment rather than at a hospital, then isn’t that the best wellness alternative yet?

Amezcua Wellness Centre is the place to completely revitalize oneself from the inside out. Their well-trained and attentive medical staff is approachable and friendly. Those who might be a bit skeptical about alternative medicine and treatments find themselves amazed and enlightened about how beneficial it is. You feel safe, at ease and reassured every step of the way for whatever treatment you choose. The best part is that, because of these, you feel very beautiful after.

Travel Notes

Amezcua Wellness Centre
122 Katipunan Avenue, White Plains, Quezon City
(63 2) 913 1353 or 57
customercare@amezcuawellness.com
www.amezcuawellness.com

Spa Samplings

Medical:
Live Blood Analysis – 30 mins, 1, 500 Php.
Completely painless, the LBA is very fascinating. Find out about your body’s prime weaknesses from one tiny drop of blood.
Korean Bu-hang – 30 mins, 600 Php
Very similar to the Ventosa treatment (minus the candles), Korean Bu-hang helps indicate potential problem areas around the body.

Therapeutic:
Jade Mat Therapy – 30 mins, 600 Php
Heat activated jade stones relax and soothe back aches and pains.

Spa:
Amezcua Anti-Aging Hydra-Mineral Body Wrap – 90 mins, 1,500 Php
If you want to feel like a goddess, this is the treatment to get!

Acupuncture is also available by appointment. – 60 mins, 1,500 Php

Senior citizens get a 30% discount on all individual spa treatments and certain medical treatments.

Succumbing to the Spell of Siquijor

There are but only a handful places in the country where people get scared just by hearing its name. We hear stories about Balete Drive and Capiz where, they say, unearthly creatures roam the earth. And there also is such an island where stories of local black magic, voodoo and aswangs veer the tourists away from the real reason why the place is called the Mystic Island. But as I have learned by spending some time there myself, the “mystic” label of the place does not emanate from stories about the supernatural but from the almost undisturbed beauty of its rolling mountains and white sand beaches, so beautiful that new resort investors are just itching to develop. I am a living testimony to the real beauty and majesty of the island province of Siquijor. I visited Siquijor to regain some peace of mind and relaxation. I soon discovered, my search was an effortless task. Siquijor has its ways of making me succumb to its spell.

The island is accessible through the ports of Siquijor and Larena via fast ferries from three major destinations in the Visayas – Cebu, Dumaguete and Tagbilaran.

But getting there and staying for the weekend is not the problem --- leaving is. If you are coming in groups, it is advisable to rent vehicles for the duration of your stay. It will set you back P600-800 a day, excluding fuel and driver’s tip. But if you are seeking the Siquijor adventure alone or with a loved one, you could ride the habal-habal, a motorcycle that could accommodate three passengers, including the driver.

One of the most celebrated tourist attractions of Siquijor is not a place, but a man, who reaches the peak of his popularity during the Holy Week when locals search for talismans, gayumas and anting-antings. It is to people in his craft that Siquijor owes its mysterious reputation. Mang Juan, the area’s most prominent maker of these magical items, cooks his brewed concoctions like a quintessential warlock, the most of which are eventually made available for sale to ardent followers. He does not look anything like an anting-anting maker, coming from the impression of hermit-like men secluding themselves from the rest of the people. Mang Juan was extremely accommodating. I remember him sharing with us how he collects the ingredients for his recipes, a complicated task from what I heard. The only opportune time for ingredient shopping begins at dawn every Friday between Ash Wednesday until Good Friday. Preparation is equally tedious as Mang Juan is careful not to let any sunlight shine on his harvest until he cooks them. His anting-antings range from P500 to P1500, and although it would sound expensive for some, those who have purchased Mang Juan’s trinkets would have their own personal stories of their effectivity. Mang Juan is not difficult to find; he resides near Cantabon Cave, at Mount Bandilaan.

That same place, Cantabon Cave, is one of 45 of Siquijor’s most frequented caves. Exploration would entail a long, winding and difficult trek along a subterranean stream and a walk through a bounty of stalactites and stalagmites that are at par with those you could see in the caves of Palawan. You could take the entire afternoon identifying different rock formations at the cave walls. The local guides are willing to assist you in exploring the inside trek at P300, inclusive of the hard hats and flashlights for your adventure.

The beauty of Siquijor’s beaches is a secret slowly unraveling to tourists. Natural white sand beaches line the southwestern down to the eastern coastlines. The Coral Cay Beach Resort at the town of San Juan has become a favorite destination for foreigners and diving enthusiasts with a couple of diving establishments offering diving lessons and platforms. Imagine a romantic moment experiencing the San Juan sunset with the vista of Apo Island just offshore. For those those who are on a budget, the Salagdoong Beach Resort at the town of Maria has come to be known as Siquijor’s “People’s Beach” with the look and feel of a first class beach minus the first class price tag. The entrance fee is at P15, with overnight cottages at P800. And, I must say, I love the Saturday night life at Salagdoong. Local bands play all night to party-goers in crowds less packed than what you have in Boracay or Puerto Galera.

Freshwater enthusiasts need not fret in Siquijor, as not all the beautiful swimming spots are on the beach. Also in San Juan, the local government developed Capilay Springs, a natural spring near its center and created a cool free-flowing fresh water pool draining just a few meters to the sea. Entrance and cottages in this spring are free. And in the town of Lazi, after a 135-step descent on a steep cobblestone stairway is Cambugahay Falls. Locals here have come to know this environmental wonder as the only “enchanted” waterfalls in Siquijor. And thanks to that belief, this three drop waterfall with basins reaching to 15 feet deep has remained to be almost undisturbed, aside from occasional visits from tourists.

But if you are looking for a silent religious retreat, one may visit Lazi Convent at the town’s center which is believed to be Asia’s oldest and largest. Built by the Spaniards in 1884, this rock and wood edifice of the Lazi Convent used to be the diocesan priest’s vacation house in Siquijor. The convent is still operating with its nuns running a school in its grounds. The church just across the convent was built at almost the same time as the convent. And as I read in one of the church’s ceiling beams, its last major renovation was almost a century ago, replacing the entire roof structure. Since then, the only alteration on the building was the installation of iron bars to cover the windows and the replacement of rusting roof material.

Siquijor has offered me a complete weekend out of town package during my stay there – I went swimming, trekking and spelunking – amazed by its people and natural beauty. It does not matter if the black magic might be non-existent. I found myself entranced with a different kind of magic, which is Siquijor.

Travel Notes

How to get there
Siquijor is accessible only by fast ferries from Cebu, Tagbilaran, and Dumaguete. If you are coming from Cebu, the fare would cost around P450-500; from Tagbilaran, P300-350, and; from Dumaguete, P150-250. Booking is required during peak season (Holy Week) only; otherwise you could take regular daily trips to the island.

Seeking assistance
The locals understand Filipino and English, but speak little of them. But there is no need to worry because local police and municipal government officers are around to accommodate visitors. Just in case, keep these numbers at hand: Siquijor Provincial Governor’s Office (035)344-2015; Local Government of Siquijor (035)480-3315.
Mobile phone signals are available only near or in the town centers. Both Globe and Smart are working in the said areas.

Seized by a Sunset

Dumaguete’s beauty cannot be grasped in just one day. Situated southeast of Negros Island, Dumaguete lives up to its name’s meaning, “daggit” or to snatch, as it seized me completely during my first visit. That trip was brief, as I was only there for a competition. A few months after, without particular reason, I found my way back to the island for an entire weekend. Perhaps, I was trying to visit that part of me Dumaguete stole – something I know, I would gladly give it for good.

My image of Dumaguete is the stunning view of the Tanon Strait at sunset, standing where the belfry is. The locals told me, the church was built during the Spanish era, and the bell on top of its tower was used to warn the people when Moro raiders used to attack the city. The moment is serenity itself; no other sunset is like the one that revealed itself to me that afternoon.

From the view at the belfry, I also saw Rizal Boulevard – which reminded me so much of Roxas Boulevard in Metro Manila where I make my home. Slowly, as day became night, the bayside filled with people. Vendors with carts selling the town’s version of tempura, amble in with lovers enjoying the romantic breeze of a twilight walk. A variety of hotels, restaurants, and bars occupy the boulevard’s stretch. And the locals say, if you ride a boat, you could see Rizal Boulevard with its neon lights as far as five miles away from shore. A night scene pulsating with life yet ironically, devoid of the noise pollution so characteristic of big cities. In the morning, when dawn breaks, runners appreciate a vista that extends into the banks of neighboring Siquijor.

Perhaps the charm of Dumaguete is born out of its youthful population. Students can be found everywhere in Dumaguete, what with the Silliman University heralded as one of the most prominent educational institutions in the Visayas. 20th century American structures give an air of dignity and quiet wisdom to the near-shore campus. An impressive collection of antique Chinese porcelain and pre-Hispanic burial remains are on display in Silliman hall, one of the university’s oldest halls. They also have a marine laboratory, comparable to those in Manila-based universities. My friends in Silliman told me that there are actually campus ambassadors that tour visitors around campus. In a town whose population is only a little over 100,000, seven colleges and universities make academics a serious business in Dumaguete.

But those in need of a break from all things serious will find that Dumaguete’s reputation for having magnificent beaches is well deserved. I for one, think I did not do anything else in Dumaguete aside from eat and swim.

I took my first plunge in Dumaguete’s waters in Flight Resort, which is built around a hot and cold spring. First owned by a French pilot who would stay in the island for relaxation, it proved to be aptly named – I had my snacks and dinner inside a plane. Flight Resort is a 25-minute ride away from the city proper.

One cannot claim that you visited Dumaguete without spending a day in the Bais Dolphin and Whale Watching Center at Tanon Strait. Those with deeper pockets can opt to rent a van for P1, 300 or a boat for P3, 000 to reach the center. But I took two jeepney rides got me there for P25, savings well worth the slight inconvenience. The moment I got to the area, guides attended to me in almost military precision. I shared a bangka worth P1500 with other tourists and sailed to the areas where the whales and dolphins were. There was no show, no choreography for the marine animals. This was as close as I got to these creatures acting au naturale. I highly recommend that visitors book around one-week in advance. The management is trying to regulate the number of visitors per day to avoid unnecessary disturbances to the natural habitat.

Near the Bais Dolphin and Whale Watching is the Manjuyod White Sand Bar, where I dined in a house on stilts. You can bring your own food for this sand bar picnic or opt to have food cooked for you. But the Sand Bar offers more than just a dining-over-the-sea experience. Visitors could also do scuba diving and swimming, or even stay overnight in one of their rooms. Again, I suggest that visitors book their Manjuyod stay at least one week in advance.

The most popular diving-snorkeling site in Dumaguete is the Apo Island Marine Sanctuary, which is a 35-minute pump boat-ride away from the city proper. Others contend that it is one of the best-preserved reefs in the world, at par with Palawan’s Tubbataha or Dapitan’s Challenger Reef. It has a unique drop-off perfect for diving enthusiasts. I was not able to dive; I did not know how. But I did have the chance to view the variety of fishes and corals while snorkeling. Of all the underwater wonders I saw, I find it funny that my most vivid memory of the Apo Island experience is coming face to face with the biggest lapu-lapu I have ever seen. I think it could swallow my entire hand in one bite; but of course, it didn’t.

I swooned over the idea of a resort hidden in the mountains. After a 15-minute jeepney ride from Dumaguete City, I was able to reach Valencia where Mountain Resort is. The swimming area is built around a river line, and it gave me a short retreat from the beach scene. I do not remember how long I was soaked under the cold, soothing waters for that entire weekend. From where I lay, the sky felt an arm-stretch away.

In as much as I want to experience as many Philippine islands as I could, Dumaguete holds a distinctive place in my memory. It renewed my sense of adventure. But it also snatched a fragment of my soul, as I know that I could find a certain kind of peace that only a Dumaguete sunset could bring.

Travel Notes
Getting there
From Manila; by air: Cebu Pacific twice daily and Air Philippines twice daily; Airfare- P1400-2400
From Cebu, Dipolog, CDO; by ship

Asking Around
City Tourism Office
(63 35) 225 0549
Provincial Tourism Office
(63 35) 225 1825

Nature's Escape

I hear the faint sound of singing. A man is improvising jazz songs as he kayaks close to the white sandy shore of Club Noah. Although it is fully booked, there seems to be hardly anyone around and the tranquillity is undisturbed as staff quietly lay out tables for dinner on the beach. True to its name, Club Noah is a haven for nature, inviting visitors to awaken their senses and feel inspired by its clear waters, coral reefs and starry skies.

Perched on the northeast coast of Palawan, Taytay is the jump-off point for Club Noah. The town is home to a Spanish church and an extraordinary fortress constructed in 1667 to defend the inhabitants against Moro pirates. Santa Isabel fort - built from huge coral blocks bound together with a mortar of lime and egg whites - looks out over the island-studded seascape of Taytay Bay. These days, wild orchids flourish on its fossilised walls and colourful zinnias grow around the canons and bastions.

From Taytay, it is a 45-minute ride on a banca, a traditional wooden outrigger boat, to Apulit Island, the home of Club Noah. As we approach, dramatic limestone cliffs appear, towering above a deep blue sea and turquoise shallows. Along the east and west sides of the bay thirty white beach cabanas sit elegantly above the water - these are where guests stay. A gentle breeze blows and hibiscus plants flower profusely all around.

Relaxation comes easily upon checking in at this resort-cum-nature reserve. After a cool drink accompanied by welcoming music and dance, it is up to you to while away your first few hours – I take a walk along the beach to an enchanting grotto and then rest on my private balcony under which a colourful array of reef fish swim and a baby shark weaves in and out of the rocks.

Club Noah feels like a very special kind of resort: remote, comfortable and environmentally sensitive. The idea was pioneered by a group of Japanese divers who were shipwrecked in nearby El Nido where they became inspired by the craggy limestone landscape and brilliant underwater world. They opened Club Noah in 1995 and since that time have been putting ten percent of the resort’s annual income into protecting the island ecosystems.

Near the main pier, enormous shoals of stripy damselfish gather in the shallows. Large groupers swim below, unperturbed by curious snorkelers diving down for a closer look. In the deeper waters, a wide array of corals grow and feisty anemone fish guard their homes of gently waving tentacles. Towards the west beach, snorkelers can see stingrays, green sea turtles and may chance across a graceful manta ray.

I borrow a kayak and paddle over to the Octagon pier, on the other side of the bay, where I swim in limpid blue water surrounded by more fish and corals. In front of me a huge rock juts out of the water, a typical feature of this rugged karst landscape. Beyond it is a dive site, ‘Noah’s Rock’, home to another beautiful reef.

As dusk begins to fall, guests head back to their cabanas to dress for a sumptuous dinner on the beach. Every evening a delicious buffet is prepared of local and international cuisine - from Filipino and Japanese to French and Italian. For an especially romantic evening couples can request a candlelit dinner at the ‘Rock Bar’, positioned on a rocky outcrop some 109 steps above the beach. Here Palawan hornbills fly among the treetops, sleek bodied with unusual shaped bills, making their distinctive calls to one another. For compete seclusion, it can be arranged for guests to dine in the ‘Honeymooners’ Cave’, on the east side of the island. Behind the cliff front this airy cavern, carved by water over billions of years, has a very special allure.

On my second day, I wake before dawn to visit the Irrawaddy dolphins of Malampaya Sound. We travel through the still, misty morning to Taytay’s east coast and reach the sound as the sun is beginning to rise. The mountainous landscape is shrouded in fog and the brackish water is totally calm. It is not long before we hear a pod of dolphins surfacing close by and the distinct sound of their breathing. They allow us to remain near and we watch them rolling through the water, sometimes jumping and splashing.

Sadly, it is this friendly and playful nature that is endangering the Irrawaddy dolphins of Malampaya. First discovered in 1986, their number has dropped sharply from 77 to just 47. Many drown by becoming entangled when playing among the fish traps which are so common in the sound. The World Wildlife Fund Philippines is working together with local fishermen to prevent by-catch and secure a future for these rare marine mammals.

We arrive back at Club Noah in time for a late breakfast and a lazy morning on the beach. The ‘kelang-banwa’ is a new native style lounge with low tables and huge cushions and floor mats. It is designed as a cultural centre and is decorated with indigenous musical instruments from the Pala’wan tribe. Perhaps the most relaxing place to drink a coffee or one of the many herbal teas on offer, this is also a great refuge during the odd rain shower.

Lunch is served on the west beach. No ordinary picnic but a veritable feast of seafood, barbequed meats and delicious salads followed by blueberry roll and mango sponge cake. It is high tide and small waves lap on the shore beneath my table. Behind the beach are tall cliffs and what looks like an impenetrable forest. But when I opt to walk back to the main beach, I find carefully marked out pathways along the cliff side and through the trees. I visit Café Isabel, a restaurant over the water open for special occasions and, as I make my way along the west side of the island, I hear the screeching of insects and the chatter of birds all around.

For those interested in trekking, Club Noah offers two-hour guided nature walks through the island’s interior. Look out for anteaters and Philippine mouse deer – an endemic species which is the smallest hoofed animal on earth. You will see, or at least hear, a huge variety of birds and should watch for snakes slithering through the undergrowth. Strangely, rabbits are also a common sight - an introduced species that has successfully made a home on the island.

That afternoon, I join a trip to Pabellon Island, a fifteen-minute banca ride from Club Noah. This is where the nido harvest takes place. Twice a month, daring climbers gather swiftlets’ nests from Pabellon’s towering cave complexes. The nests – constructed from fine threads of the birds’ saliva - are sold for ‘bird’s nest soup’, a Chinese delicacy famed for its health benefits and one of the most expensive foods in the world. Inside one cave is a deep turquoise lagoon where visitors can swim in the chilly, crystal clear water to admire the dramatic limestone rock formations above and below.

My final day I devote entirely to diving. The reefs are extensive and there are many different dive sites. The natural diversity is astounding, especially close to the drop off where a statue of an angel kneels on the seabed and shoals of bluefin travellies glide past giant clams with iridescent mantles.

The key to the richness of Club Noah’s underwater world is the fact that fishing is prohibited with in one mile of the island. “When we first arrived here, the reef had been quite damaged by fishermen”, says Bong Romero, Manager of the resort. “So we transplanted small corals from other areas and provided the right conditions for them to prosper. Since then our reefs have flourished and now act as nurseries for young jacks, sharks and other pelagic species that will spend most of their lives in the open sea”.

At Club Noah time drifts by in a leisurely way and, although I only stayed two nights and three days, when it was time to go home I was already completely rested. Even for just a short break, living so close to nature in this luxurious retreat restores the body and replenishes the imagination. The El Nido divers who were inspired to found Club Noah dreamt of creating “a return to the essentials of life” and this they have surely done.

Club Noah Isabelle
Apulit Island, Taytay, northeastern Palawan, Philippines
(63 2) 844 6688 or 8446166
info@clubnoah.com.ph

Adventure Bliss

The idea of going to El Nido for a holiday makes me blush with excitement! I’ve been there before with friends and family but it never ceases to gift me with an amazing experience in each visit.

There is a sense of mystical magic in this paradise resort that keeps me coming back. Allow me to take you there for a weekend of adventure.

Enlightenment in a Small Lagoon
My adventure buddy Hector and I took a speedboat from our Lagen Resort to the small lagoon near the Miniloc Resort. The journey through the surrounding grandeur of El Nido is truly magical. The mere experience of traversing the towering limestone cliffs amidst the varying hues of the waters from turquoise to emerald green and the resounding silence of nature will make one see that there is something mystical about this experience that embraces one’s soul.

According to our El Nido guide, a limestone cliff takes more than two hundred years to develop and we are indeed lucky to be able to take a tour and be surrounded by this natural wonder.

We transferred from the boat to the two-seater kayak and we paddled through the entrance of the famous small lagoon. As we reached the entry point, we were challenged by the experience of getting through the narrow passageway in between sharp rocks. We gently pushed our kayak within the tiny hole that can accommodate a standard body size at a time. With patience, gentleness and teamwork, we managed to cross the rock and we were awed by the spectacular beauty before us. It was like entering paradise. Surrounded by grand limestone cliffs with protruding green plants and welcomed by the morning rays that illuminated the emerald water, I could never ask for a perfect venue for a leisure adventure other than this. As we kayaked smoothly around the lagoon hugging the contour of the area, I heard nothing but the soothing splash of the water coming from our own paddle. How solemn it was to look up and see the shining light smiling bright at us.

As we gently moved around this amazing discovery, I felt Hector moving from the back as if trying to get his balance. In a split second, our kayak flipped over and we suddenly found ourselves into the water, with our fiberglass canoe on top of us! What was that?!? It all occurred too fast for us to know how it even happened. All I know is that we ended up laughing so hard that we heard nature echo our laughter. That was fun! What an experience indeed.

Lesson learned: You have to be in harmony with your kayak buddy and take extra precaution when moving. The kayak is light enough to flip over easily.

Tip to share: If you want to surprise your kayak partner with fun adventures, just keep on moving and shift your weight to one side and feel the kayak tilt and flip over! It makes quite a laugh!

Sea Kayaking in the Pouring Rain
“For those who think that only sunshine brings happiness, they have not danced in the rain.” - from the tent card of Real Coffee in Boracay.

The leisure kayak was fun but we wanted to experience the real thing and elevate the level of our adventure. Ergo, we asked the friendly concierge of Lagen Resort to schedule us for a sea kayak escapade.

We were assisted by a sports activity instructor who gave us a briefing on sea kayaking. Before we boarded the kayak, we were provided with a life vest and a plastic bag to store our valuables in a compact storage of the canoe. We are all set and excited to move forward together with our guide who went before us to lead the way.

The sea kayak was unbelievably light and it moves faster, which means we have a tendency to flip even more easily. Thus, sensitivity and alertness are required. Our guide led us to the open waters. The sea gave us a sense of ultimate freedom to move, talk, laugh aloud and simply be one with nature.

My imagination has been set ablaze despite of the overcast weather. I let the surroundings inspire me as we moved in sheer excitement in this solitary world occupied by only us and the sea. The sky was beginning to darken with gray clouds and the rain suddenly poured down to kiss the sea and our faces as we looked up the sky. The water started becoming rough that we needed to traverse some bumpy waves to reach the big lagoon. We didn’t care about the rain because nothing can be more exhilarating than this experience! As we reached the big lagoon, we found a shelter under the limestone cliffs to rest a bit as Hector started to sing merrily in the middle of the pouring rain.

As we felt our stomach complaining of hunger, we decided to move on and row with our stored energy and found a little corner of paradise with white sand and a small nipa hut and waited for the El Nido speed boat to bring our lunch. Our food arrived in a charming picnic basket and as we opened it, we found some rice wrapped in banana leaves, a variety of grilled seafood and chops that were neatly packed in ceramic plates together with an assortment of tropical fruits. Oh, they came with silver utensils, too! What else could be more luxurious and pampering than that?

Whenever I travel, I always check the weather forecasts to ensure that I will be blessed with the glorious sun. That used to be my perfect concept of travel until I experienced the pouring rain in El Nido and ended up chilling out in blissful solitude.

Diving Paradise
I went to El Nido without my C-Card. I lost it a long time ago and I applied for a renewal but my card didn’t arrive in time for this trip. El Nido has a strict “No C-Card, No Diving” policy. I eagerly wanted to dive so I ended up calling my Dive Instructor, Ney Ney Guevarra, for the details which he immediately sent me through a text message. I gave it to the El Nido staff but they had to check the records first before they confirmed my claim to be valid. It truly is a professional resort that puts the safety of its guests first.

Lesson learned: If you want to experience diving in El Nido, bring your C-Card. No amount of charm and twisting of arms will ever work.

Gerry, our dive instructor, guided us in our underwater exploration. The experience of diving again made me realize how much I have missed the underwater paradise as I came face to face once more with the gentle creatures of the sea. I went up close and personal with sea turtles together with an amazing array of colorful corals and reef fish living in a pristine habitat. The diversity of El Nido’s marine sanctuary is truly spectacular!

I was touched by Hector’s own experience underwater. He said that the majestic force that was the ocean captivated his mind and body the moment he broke the waters’ surface and his thoughts oscillated between fear and peace by the grandeur and mystique that surrounded him. Whether it was the curiosity of the clown fish, the gentleness of the sea turtle or the stealth of the blue spotted ray lying in wait, he was overcome by a sense of humility.

Forest Room
After feeling the sore muscles from fun adventures, nothing can beat the sense of winding down in a luxurious room. How lovely it was to chill in the comfort of a cool room, a large size bed and to shower in a spacious bathroom complete with amenities.

The moment I woke up the next morning, the magnetizing view from my terrace called out and prompted me to walk out and open the glass window. I curled up on the couch of my spacious veranda and was stunned with the panoramic vista of a lush rainforest in all its glory. As I took in the scent and stillness of nature, the misty morning greeted me with delight as I heard a mélange of sounds from the cicadas and saw a flight of birds dancing gracefully in circles.

My trip to El Nido has gifted me again with another perfect moment of rapture beyond compare.

If you are after a luxurious tropical vacation bundled with adventure bliss and exceptional service that will make your holiday truly memorable, Lagen is the only way to go.

Travel Notes

El Nido Resorts
(63 2) 894 5644 / 750 7600
holiday@elnidoresorts.com
www.elnidoresorts.com

Endless Adventure Activities that can be explored in El Nido:

Kayaking
Scuba Diving
Bottom Fishing
Hobie Cat Sailing
Pedal Boat
Snorkeling
Mangrove Tours
Fish Feeding
Rock Climbing
Cave Exploration
Trekking to a panoramic view from the top
Sunbathing and having lunch in private islands of various locations
Stargazing

How to Get There
Island Transvoyager, Inc. (ITI) and SeAir are two airline companies that have regular routes to El Nido. ITI prioritizes guests traveling to El Nido. Travel time from Manila is one hour and 45 minutes.

Island Transvoyager, Inc.
(63 2) 851 5674
www.islandtransvoyager.com

Wakeboarding at CWC

“Intense.” Coming from the mouth of a professional wakeboarder when asked to describe his chosen sport, just hearing it is justifiably electrifying. You could almost feel the adrenaline rush just patiently, purposefully wanting to burst. The queasy feeling in my stomach only means one thing: this is it. My first taste of the extreme. But is wakeboarding really that intense? What with the coma-inducing faceplants and the nerve-wracking flips that occur day in and day out at the cable park, one cannot ignore the exhilaration. As I scour the scene for a fidgety rookie like me anxious to get the first taste of lake water, it was the cozy vibe that grabs my attention. Where is the much hyped up intensity that seems to fuel these riders, I begin to wonder. Could it be disguised within the laidback atmosphere exuded by this extreme water park, or could it be thinly veiled as an inebriated group watching the action from the shore? Intoxicated with beer, with the rush of extreme sports, who knows? A mixture of both, probably. Because once you set foot here at Camsur Watersports Complex, you would have to dig deeper in to unearth the intensity. It’s quite subtle, really. Only felt by those seconds away from being stoked. It is not kitschy. It is definitely not obvious. It comes with the lifestyle.

After a 35-minute flight from Manila to Naga Airport in Pili and a 5-drive from the airport, I have arrived at what is considered to be the “best cable park in the country”: the Camsur Watersports Complex. A six-hectare complex, CWC has become a sanctuary for beginners and pro riders alike not only from the Philippines but from all over the world. As I was on the short plane ride, I had no idea what to expect. Maybe see a lake with convoluted cables that serve as puppet strings for the riders, or maybe find myself amidst a chock-full of riders waiting for their turn. I imagined those things, but never this. What I saw was more than just a cable park. It was an alternate world, if you will, where the free-spirited gathered around and got out of bed searching for a sense of thrill. Show any sign of ennui, and you’d feel left out. The scene was that surreal, it almost seemed like the park was in constant inhale-exhale. Or maybe it was just me. It was a theme park for the extreme, if there was one. And CWC’s theme? Live for the rush. Aside from being a cable park—the country’s premiere, no less—CWC also has a winch park setup with an A-frame obstacle running between a pond and a swimming pool, a boat lake, an area for whale shark diving, a beach and hot springs. A place like this with all the facilities, one would think that it would cost an arm and a leg. Think again. A stay at CWC is, surprisingly, affordable—considering the plethora of thrills that the complex could offer.

You would be numb not to be able to feel a peculiar breeze in the air. It was both of tranquility and elation, at the opposite ends of the spectrum, yet both very much alive at CWC. The longer I stayed at CWC, the more I understood the principle. CWC has somehow become a middle ground, a gray area wherein the hectic pace of the workweek and the reassuring calm of the weekend meet. For the professional wakeboarder, this has been the wakeboarding lifestyle. Spend the weekend at the cable park armed with their thirst for excitement, drive out to the lake with fellow riders and ride all day. After which, chilling ensues, goofing around follows, engaging in friendly banter as to who got the highest air and who pulled off the most difficult trick. I break into a smile as I unintentionally eavesdropped on a group of riders recalling their latest adventure with the board. They reminded me of kids in the playground bragging to one another after an afternoon of sweating it out in the sun. But then I look up at the six-point cable towering over me and the 700-meter long cable lake that could swallow me should it desire and I came to a much thought about conclusion: this is no playground.

My sort of kindergarten theory was proven right when I witnessed one of the riders’ wipeout. I cringed and almost found myself back up an inch or two from the water. Sure, I felt a vicarious rush from the rider who just pulled off a trick for which I cannot find a word for other than “awesome”, but it didn’t exempt me from feeling the pain of those who fumbled and tumbled in the lake. It was a scary sight, to say the least. However, as with all things, fear is insurmountable not by its nature but by your approach. Head in to the waters with shaky knees and a squirmy mindset and don’t expect to be able to stand on your board. Wiping out though, is pretty much overrated. It’s a natural hazard that comes to every extreme sport. Pros consider wiping out as a rite of passage --- get over it and rise above it with a newfound courage. Figuratively and literally speaking, of course.

Keeping in line with the unperturbed nature of CWC are the competitions held here. Naturally, these competitions are nothing more than to showcase a rider’s skill or show off a new trick. It doesn’t really matter who gets top prize at these events, because each and every competitor gets a shining moment. Thus, a competition at CWC always blossoms into one big party, a shindig that gives riders from Manila and Camarines Sur the opportunity to hang out and engage in friendly contest. There are a couple of competitions held at CWC that cater to both local and international riders: Nationals, the CWC Open and the WWA World Championships. But before getting ahead of myself, it is now my turn to test the waters. After a couple of hours in the water (keeping track of the time is impossible once you’re in the thick of things), I was finally able to stand on the water. Unimpressive, maybe, but it was an achievement, nevertheless. To be part of the CWC lifestyle, to absorb all the energy, to channel the adrenaline. It’s all, very, intense. And coming from the mouth of a first-timer, it is definitely no misnomer. Make no mistake about it.

Travel Notes

CamSur Watersports Complex
Provincial Capitol Complex
Cadlan, Pili, Camarines Sur
(63 54) 475 0689 / 475 4784
www.camsurwatersportscomplex.com

Getting There:
By Plane - Air Philippines flies daily to Naga Airport in Pili and to Legaspi City. Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific Air also has daily flights via Legaspi City.

From Naga Airport - Tricycles are available en route to the complex for around Php150.

From Legaspi City - Rent a service vehicle. Priced at around Php2,500 – 3,000 for an hour and 15-minute ride to the town of Pili. Shuttles are also available from the airport but should be booked ahead of time.

Rates: (CWC Weekday Wakeboarding Package)
Php 3,150 per person
Inclusion:
3 days/2 nights stay at Villa del Rey Cabanas or Trailer Homes
Two (2) breakfast
Three (3) whole days of Wakeboarding
Free Instructional session from top pro riders
Free use of wakeboard gears
Free roundtrip airport transfers

The Legendary Palawan Experience

Growing up, I have always been fascinated by the city of Puerto Princesa in Palawan. As a little girl, I was intrigued by Puerto Princesa partly because its geographical location is so far away compared to the compressed islands of Visayas and Mindanao, and also because of its name that connotes regality as well as the image of a place of charm and extreme beauty—like all princesses were to me at that time. Now, grown up, I am still enamored by this big Palawan city. I used to envy other people who line up at the Puerto Princesa check-in counter at the airport while I go on a quest to a different destination. But God grants to those who wait and for four fantastic days, I got to experience one of my dream destinations.

Our host for the trip was The Legend Palawan, a member of the Legend Hotels International Corporation. The Legend Palawan is undoubtedly one of the best places to stay in the city because apart from its impeccable service and facilities, they also have the most extensive packages for the most memorable Puerto Princesa experience. With everything set and ready, I got to see the best of Palawan, one escapade at a time.

Puerto Princesa is the center of many adventure sites in the Philippines. The fact that Palawan forks away from the main islands of the country promises true adventure and exciting escapades waiting to be explored. It is home to two UNESCO World Heritage Sites and many other adventure sites that it would take days to visit them all, so it was proper that our exploration of Puerto Princesa started with a day tour around the city. What I imagined the city to be while I was growing up was far from what I saw when we arrived, yet the essence of the atmosphere was what I hoped for. Its rural and bucolic terrains are mixed with fast-developing touches of modernity. Every kilometer alternated between structures and vast fields of trees or thick vegetations. A traveler might think that the call of adventure is far from this quiet metropolis, but it’s actually quite the opposite.

Our first stop was the Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Preservation Center which protects the Palawan wildlife, particularly the indigenous freshwater crocodiles. One of their main highlights is the skeletal and leathery remains of a 17-foot crocodile located at the entrance. The facilities of the preservation center include breeding grounds for the baby crocs as well as big pens for the adult ones. After the tour, guests can also explore the property and see the other protected animals such as indigenous birds, bearcats, monkeys and even ostriches. For souvenirs, tourists are encouraged to get their picture taken while holding a baby crocodile. Their jaws are tied up but they can get agitated and hard to hold onto. After the preservation center, we drove up to an affluent neighborhood in the city where Hacienda Isabel (Mitra’s Ranch) and Baker’s Hill are located. Hacienda Isabel is popular view deck in the city overlooking Honda Bay while Baker’s Hill is a favorite pit stop for tourists who want to enjoy fresh baked goods, refreshments and cheap souvenir items.

We had a special request to go and visit one of the most interesting places in city, Vietville. Years ago, this small village in Puerto Princesa became the second home of thousands of Vietnamese seeking refuge from the war. Today, the community is a ghost town after the Vietnamese left to start a new life in other countries. Located at the entrance of the village is Vietville Restaurant, one of the few establishments that still operate in the community. It has maintained the authenticity and flavor of Vietnamese cuisine made by the adopted residents of Palawan. A must try is their Beef Stew Noodle Soup, French Bread and Spring Rolls. It was a delicious meal to celebrate our daytrip around the city.

The next day we were scheduled for the island hopping in Honda Bay. Among my other island hopping experiences, Honda Bay was the grandest of all. Majestic blue hues are everywhere, from the sky to the deep sea, with green islets scattered around. Our boat wasn’t the usual motorized banca but a large white boat that can easily accommodate a group of 30. It even has an upper deck for a full 360-degree view of the bay. It took 45 minutes to travel to Snake Island, the first of two destinations. Its long bar of beach sand curves like a serpent making it a popular sunbathing area for visitors. On the other side are shrubs of mangroves and other plants occupying the whole area. Here, visitors can swim around the shallow ends of the island while others can hang around and refresh with coolers like halo-halo in the cogon-roofed huts located at the middle of Snake Island. By midday, we already felt hungry so the crew brought us to our next destination, Pandan Island. After riding for 30 minutes, we arrived at our lunch place. Compared to Snake Island, Pandan Island is much more vibrant with its sprawling trees and few residences. The tropical atmosphere, full stomach and the feeling of vacation calls for a relaxing siesta and the many huts and long benches situated under the trees are the perfect place to catch a nap. Meanwhile, those who want to do a little exploration can go freely around the island. By 4:00 PM, the boat was ready to take us back to the main land. The sun has just passed over the middle of the sky casting rays of sunlight on the water creating cascades of diamonds floating on the sea; a mesmerizing sight to see just before heading back to the hotel.

Our third day was the most awaited one. We woke up extra early to take the two-hour drive going to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park located north of the city. Also known as St. Paul's Subterranean River National Park, it is one of the two UNESCO World Heritage Sites found in Puerto Princesa, the other one being the Tubbataha Reef National Marine Park located in Sulu Sea between Palawan and Mindanao islands. Those two hours passed by quickly and we saw ourselves standing by Sabang Beach. Hundreds of boats were parked along the wharf waiting for their fill of riders to get to the park on the other side of the island. For another 20 minutes, we bounced along the waves of China Sea, basking on the tall cliffs bordering the island. We landed on a pristine beach with a huge sign of the Subterranean River Park welcoming us towards the forest. Thick foliage crowded the opening and this small preservation park is inhabited by numerous indigenous animals such as monitor lizards, local birds and monkeys. It was a perfect example of a preserved biodiversity with its mountain-to-sea ecosystem. After a short 3-minute trek to the park, we saw the familiar opening of the Subterranean River. The water pouring in from the sea was jade in color, a contrast to the ash walls surrounding the mouth of the cave. Before riding the small boat that would take us inside the cave, we had to register first and get our life vests and helmets for safety purposes. At first, you would think that the cave is small. However, when you see the boats returning from their trip, the mouth of the cave magically becomes bigger, like a portal to another realm.

At last it was our turn to enter and within minutes, I could hear my heart beating loudly and my breaths taken in slowly as we entered into darkness. I was assigned to hold on to the generated electric lamp and in less than a minute after entering the underground river, the cavernous walls took shape with the light. The site in front of us was amazing. The river looked like a big hallow hall paved with ebony floors. We had an amusing river guide who not only gave us insights about the aged structures of the caves but also entertained us with the creative nicknames of the various stone formations inside. For millions and millions of years, the cave was under the process of metamorphoses with unique formations of stalagmites and stalactites developing in its cavernous walls. Although dark and completely humid, the underground river still has its share of residents from the bats on its high ceilings to the small insects and organisms living on its walls and waters. The tour guide then requested to turn off the light just for us to experience the darkness inside the cave and for a quick moment, the feeling of coldness and frailty enveloped our small vessel in the deafening silence. Quite an experience you will never ever forget.

The Subterranean River ride took about 45 minutes and before long, we saw light again coming from the entrance of the cave. A sumptuous lunch back at Sabang Beach sealed the tour with much needed refreshment. This trip is truly one of the best experiences I've ever had.

For four glorious days, I got to enjoy the beauty of Puerto Princesa. Leisure, pleasure, and adventure -- it’s all here. God surely does answer your dreams. He just chooses to wait and let you enjoy and experience it at the most unexpected time.

Travel Notes

The Legend Palawan
Malvar St. Puerto Princesa City, Palawan
(63 48) 434 4276
www.legendpalawan.com.ph

The Legend Palawan has more than the usual tour packages to see the best of the city. They offer tours to Estrella Falls, Dolphin Watching excursions, trips to the Nagtabon/ Talaudyong Beach coves as well as a Sunset Cruise and Firefly Watching Tour. The Legend Palawan has also come up with packaged tours especially made from adventure lovers (Extreme Expedition), families (Family Island Vacations) and couples (Twosome Holiday).

Where to Eat:
Badjao Seafront Restaurant
A. Abueg St., Puerto Princesa City, Palawan
(63 48) 433 3501

Ka Lui
369 Rizal Avenue, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan
(63 48) 433 2580

Lotus Garden
Rizal Ave, Puerto, Princesa
(63 48) 434 1132
www.thelotusgardenphils.com

Kamarikutan Kape at Galeri
Rizal Avenue, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan
(63 48) 433 5182

Kinabuch Grill and Bar
Rizal Avenue, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan
(63 48) 434 5194

Vietville Restaurant
Km 3, Bgy Sta. Lourdes, Puerto Princesa City, Palawan

How to Get There:
Domestic carriers have regular flights to Puerto Princesa City in Palawan from Manila. Travel time by air is one hour.

Unveiling Sagada

Sagada has two faces. First is the scenery of tall pines towering all over the mountainside creating a canopy of forest green serenity. The road curves along the mountains that are occasionally disturbed by passing vehicles transporting goods and people. This is my first look at Sagada. Small structures for inns, lodges and restaurants line up its main road and the still of the night conquers this small place up in the mountains. People seeking solitude will fall in love with this small sanctuary while nature lovers will bow down to its majestic and unguarded beauty.

But this is just the first face of Sagada. The one that you will always remember is its second and more daring side. People have to learn that Sagada is not only about natural and rural charm. Its appeal is deeper and, in a way, more exploratory. I got to learn this lesson by doing it the adventurous way because beneath this mountain hamlet’s green and dewy image is an explorer’s playground.

I have heard lots of stories from friends who have already gone here before me. I recall one story about my brother’s experience when he and some of our older relatives went there for a holiday getaway. When he got back he kept telling us how awesome Sagada was and boasted of the cave explorations they did there. As a kid with a very vivid imagination, I thought to myself how much fun and exciting it would be if I can also experience what they have gone through. I didn’t realize then how much work, persistence and courage one has to have while exploring the caves.

My exploration started early in the morning with the pine trees already dividing the sun’s rays on the forest grounds and the cold mountain air waking me up from my morning stupor. The townspeople were already up and alive with their daily morning routine; a turnabout from the night’s curfew when the village lay silent in the darkness. My companions and I headed south of town where the caves where located. Our party of four was led by a resident tour guide whom I fondly called ‘Manong‘ all throughout the trip. All cave explorations and spelunking activities in Sagada are strictly to be accompanied by an experienced tour guide to avoid accidents or any other mishaps while inside the caves.

As we trekked along the road, my friends and I can’t help but be mesmerized by the grandeur of our surroundings. Tall pines guarded the lands while wild flowers were beautifully scattered all over the small pastures. The atmosphere was enveloped by fresh mountain air that makes you want to suck all the goodness in. While we were basking at the splendid surroundings of Sagada, Manong pointed towards towering limestones beside the town. There, from a distance, we saw the famous hanging coffins of Sagada. The coffins were high above the ground, planted and stacked on the numerous limestone towers. It was an extraordinary site. To see some of the culture of the Sagada people and to experience it firsthand was awe-inspiring.

Our first stop was Lumiang Cave. Manong entered a small concrete gateway which could be easily missed if you are not familiar with the area. Flat narrow ground paths paved the way while sharp stones steps led us lower and lower toward the cave. The right side of the cave site was a wall of the mountain but the left gave a scenic view of the immaculate pine forest. Before long, we saw the large mouth of Lumiang Cave with hundreds and hundreds of coffins piled to as high as the ceiling. It was unbelievable. Some were estimated to be more than a 1,000 years old while the latest coffins where buried during the 70’s. Some coffins were already aging and worn out but the craftsmanship was still evident. Manong stood near one with an engraved shape of a lizard on its covering. He explained to us that the lizard was a symbol of long life and that the animal would guide the spirit of the dead in the afterlife. I noticed the deep burrow going farther down the cave and asked Manong where it leads to. He said it was connected to the other bigger cave and if we wanted a true adventure, we could go down there. To be honest, I was really, really out of breath and out of exercise; going inside that deep hole was an unlikely suggestion. By the time we walked back to the main road, I was really tired and sweaty. However, Manong amusingly informed me that this was a warm up compared to the other cave.

Although we didn’t get to experience the cave connection route, we still got to enjoy the continued leisure trek we had outdoors. From the road, you can see the neighboring rice terraces rolling on the mountain terrain. The clear blue sky made the trek more refreshing. A tired soul will easily be reenergized while walking through Sagada. Another 20 minutes passed before we reached the second destination, Sumaguing Cave. We stopped by a convenience store in front of the entrance to leave our heavy belongings and prepare ourselves for the cave. For those who are not adventure seekers, I suggest you put all your negative thoughts and feelings away because you might not enjoy the unique experience while exploring these caves.

Before continuing down, Manong pulled out an oil lamp from his back pack. “From here on, it will all be darkness,” he explained. With a crinkled nose to take out my anxiety, a last heavy sigh and an open mind for adventure, I joined the group and ventured down towards the growing abyss.

Sumaguing literally means ‘big,’ and within its cavernous halls live thousands of nocturnal bats squeaking and flapping above us. One might get queasy thinking of bat guano covering the ground but the feeling of adventure overwhelmed us as we went further and further inside the cave. First time spelunkers like me have to be really careful inside the cave. Aside from the darkness, sharp and slippery stones made the trek a little difficult and every move critical. I even had an accidental slip while climbing down the 50-foot stone wall. Manong advised us to make our every step slow, stern and sure.

As we approached the limestone rocks, our tour guide instructed us to remove our shoes and we went barefoot for the rest of the trip. The limestone boulders felt coarse and rough under our feet; quite a contradicting element when you look at them from afar. Apparently, being barefoot is much better because we could have better footing this way.

The following segment of our exploration was the most awaited. From the darkness, the light from the oil lamp bounced of the cream colored walls of the limestone. It was a world far different from the one we just passed. Millions of years formed these maginificently-shaped rock formations and for a very brief period of time, we had the opportunity to see it. The locals have already named some formations according to their appearance: ‘big mama’, ‘chocolate cake’, and ‘teddy bear.’ One of the most unique and splendid of them all was the ‘king’s curtain’ which looks like an impregnable wall of billowing curtains. Spelunkers can also have the option to swim around the crystal clear waters of the pools.

Visitors are then led into a labyrinth-like exploration of the cave’s inner chambers. Try twisting and hanging on to dear life while shooting down tiny holes and caverns, some of which have deep gaps in between. Incredibly, Manong swept gracefully among us, stepping nonchalantly over the rocky steps and spires. All throughout the trip, he would willingly assist, telling us where to step and where we can hold on for support. He took everything in stride and patiently encouraged us to trust his calls. The whole thing was challenging, yet well worth the labor. In the end, we were rewarded by reaching the amazing rock formation called “the rice terraces’” which was really an amazing sight to behold. The rock formation is located on a very large cavern with layers upon layers of limestone terraces creating sections of shallow wading pools from the flowing cold mountain water.

We went out of the cave the same way we came in. We had to trudge up the rock wall again the same way we went down. Again, first timers have to remember that the rocks here are slippery. By the time we reached the mouth of the cave, the sun was shining brightly down on us as if welcoming us back to the Sagada we first experienced. After almost a three-hour journey underneath the earth, it was nice to fill my lungs with fresh cold mountain air.

Visitors will greatly appreciate the scenic surroundings of the place abounding with tall pine trees and serene country atmosphere. After surviving the adventure of the deep caves, you’ll never ever forget this unbelievable adventurer’s haven in the mountains. It is really hard not to be enchanted by the beauty of Sagada especially when you’ve seen both of its faces.

Travel Notes
Aside from the spelunking activities, tourists can also go to the other interest spots in Sagada. Just a short distance away from town is Lake Danum. Visitors can take long picnics here and enjoy the beauty of the surroundings . For a real treat, hike up to Mt. Ampacao and get the chance to have a great breathtaking view of the Sagada Sunset.

Try not to bring too much load when going on a Sagada adventure. It is also advisable not to put electronic devices on your pockets to avoid them from falling out when spelunking.

Where to Stay:

The Residential Lodge is a 3-storey apartment converted into an inn. It offers dorm-style accommodations at Php 200.00 per head. There are communal bathrooms, a living room in every floor and a dining area and kitchen at the ground floor.

The Residential Lodge
Daoangan, Sagada, Mountain Province
(63 929) 625 7419

The Residential Lodge is just one of the numerous inns, guest houses and lodges in Sagada. Some lodgings have restaurants while others serve home-cooked meals. During peak season, the town hospital sometimes opens their rooms to incoming visitors.

How to Get There:
It takes 6 hours to travel by land to Manila from Baguio. From there, it takes another 6 hours to travel to Sagada through the Halsema Highway, the highest highway system in the country. One can use a car or board a bus from Baguio to take trip to Sagada and the other municipalities in the Mt. Province.

An alternate route is from Banaue, Ifugao. Tourists can take a jeep ride or an open air bus from Banaue which is about 3-4 hours from Sagada.

Choose Your Own Negros Adventure

Blessed with 7,107 islands, the Philippines never fails to give any traveler the complete island experience. You can try almost every kind of activity, whether leisurely or extreme, in the country’s most popular vacation destinations. In the Visayas, one province sits quietly, waiting for the bold and free-spirited traveler to discover that it is one of the best adventure getaways in the country.

Negros Oriental is home to one of the best dive sites in the world, a 7-kilometer sandbar, a protected marine sanctuary where dolphins frolic, white sand beaches, several luxury resorts, historical landmarks, delectable food and charming people. What more do you need for an exciting escape? Choose your own adventure and get ready to embark on your great Negros expedition!

Diving and Other Water Activities
Negros Oriental is rich in marine life, making it a top destination for snorkeling and diving. Its beaches are also ideal for other water sports such as jet skiing, kayaking and hobie cat adventures.

The Bahura Resort and Spa is located in the town of Dauin. Bahura, the Spanish word for ‘reefs’, suitably describes the rich marine life around the resort. Guests have the option to dive into the house reef which is just a few steps away from the beach; at the world famous Apo Island which is located just 30 minutes away from the resort; at the Dauin Sanctuary which is located about 10 minutes away from Bahura; or at the Masaplod Sanctuary which is smaller than the other sanctuaries but has 50 percent more target food fish species than Apo Island or Dauin.

The Bahura Resort and Spa has its own PADI Dive Center with dive masters who can turn you into a certified diver in no time. Being the sister company of Scubaworld Inc., the largest provider of scuba equipment and services in the Philippines, Bahura Resort and Spa’s on-site dive center has the most extensive inventory of scuba equipment and accessories in Dumaguete.

After a day of diving and enjoying the other water activities that include kayaking, snorkeling, hobie cats, jet skiing and dolphin watching, guests may have themselves pampered from head to toe at the spa which is located in an isolated place by the beach.

The Bahura Resort and Spa offers some of the best meals in the whole of Negros Oriental. One must never fail to try the native chicken which is seasoned and cooked to perfection and their homemade tofu which is served with a delicious sauce.

Spread over a 5-hectare coconut plantation, the resort is an ideal location for tropical weddings. The coconut trees, the beautiful beach and the impressive pools serve as stunning backdrops to any special occasion celebrated within this island sanctuary. Bahura also has spacious Zen-inspired rooms that offer unmatched solitude and relaxation. There are also 8 private villas that provide astonishing ocean views and are equipped with a semi-kitchen, a full bar setup, TV/DVD players, dining area, living room, extra large bathroom with shower and whirlpool tub, a Japanese garden and a loft bedroom.

The Private Residence VIP Resort is another favorite diving resort in Negros. Located 15 kilometers from Dumaguete City, the capital of Negros Oriental, the Private Residence VIP Resort has truly had its share of VIPs who choose to relax in the resort’s cozy environment and luxurious rooms after their dive. The resort has spectacular ocean views and offers tours to Apo Island, Bais City for Dolphin Watching, the Mabinay Caves, and Lake Balinsasayao. They also have a spa for your pampering and wellness needs. Private Residence VIP has rooms with balconies and outdoor bathrooms.

Whale and Dolphin Watching
Bais City is one of the best places in the Philippines for whale and dolphin watching because of its proximity to the Tanon Strait. The Tanon Strait is a protected marine sanctuary which has a great concentration of dolphins and whales. At the Capinahan Wharf, one must load a boat which will take you through Bais Bay and into the Tanon Strait. Here, you will have to be alert and look quickly to where the spotter points his finger because at first, the dolphins just come and go. Sometimes, all you see is a small fin jutting out of the water and it disappears even before you get a chance to lift your camera. One boatman told me that the dolphins are wary at first because they are not sure if those who are approaching are friends or foes. Years ago, dolphins in this area and in other parts of the Philippines were hunted for their meat. But due to its great potential in tourism and the government’s pursuit to protect our marine resources, the locals were given a chance to make a living by operating and assisting in the tours.

You will find out that it sometimes, it will take several attempts to get a close look at the dolphins or to get them to put on a show for you, but after patiently pursuing them, you will be surprised to suddenly see them swimming just below you. When they find that it is safe to go near you, they will come... and you will feel the rush of happiness, awe and excitement that they bring to all who come visit them in their natural habitat.

After a few hours of dolphin watching, the boat will bring you to the Manjuyod Sandbar where you will have your lunch. The Manjuyod Sandbar is one of the most visited places in the province of Negros Oriental. It is a 7-kilometer stretch of white sand that emerges during low tide near the site of the dolphin watching activities. Some have their picnics in the anchored boats and while some prefer to have the experience of eating their lunch in native wooden houses on stilts that can be rented. Our special lunch of seafood and grilled meat and was prepared by the La Planta Hotel. La Planta is a charming hotel that is a popular choice among tourists who go on the dolphin watching tours because of its proximity to the bay and because it provides the best accommodation and service in the Bais area.

Rough Terrains
In the town of Valencia, the most photographed waterfall in the entire Negros Province lies deep into the mountains. The Casaroro Falls is a narrow waterfall with a height of 100 feet. To reach it, one must follow a trail of dense tropical foliage and climb a 350-step concrete stair.

In the town of Siaton, a trip to the Balanan Lake will provide you with another adventure option. A boat ride will take you from the resort all the way across the lake to a place of huge acacia trees that dot the path leading to a trail to the Balanan Falls. The waterfall is located in the middle of a thick forest and it takes a 20 to 30-minute trek to get there, but when you finally reach the falls, you can reward yourself with a dip in its cool waters or lie in one of the huge boulders surrounding it and feel completely protected as nature takes you in its warm embrace.

If trekking to waterfalls is not your thing, then prepare to experience the most exciting way to explore the mountains of Negros – by conquering rugged terrains in an ATV. ATV Adventure Tours has experienced guides and numerous ATVs that can take you to some of the best places in Negros. Their base, located in the town of Valencia, is where you can take your ATV for a test ride before setting off for the adventure. First timers need not worry because the friendly guides will teach you all you need to know to get the ATV running and arrive at the destination safely. It’s quite scary at first, but driving is really simple and eventually, you will find yourself completely comfortable and relaxed. In fact, after a few minutes of riding, nothing else will matter. It will be just you, the ride and the adventure.

Be sure to apply sunblock on your skin before going on the tour. We took the two-hour package and we got back from the tour completely tanned, but totally thrilled by the whole experience. I was a beginner, but after two hours of dirt road driving, I felt like a pro. The tree-lined paths, the rocky roads, the water puddles and the rugged slopes all added great excitement to the whole adventure – and I was able to conquer them all! One of the highlights of the tour is a stop at a viewpoint where you can see the entire island of Siquijor and some parts of Cebu and Negros. It was a breathtaking site and for a few moments, I was on top of the world.

Forest Camp
Forest Camp is a refreshing property in the town of Valencia where families can camp out, Negros Oriental style. First opened to the public in 1990, Forest Camp provides a lot of activities to its visitors such as hiking, swimming in the freshwater pools, picnic, camping and guided treks to nearby tourist attractions such as the Casaroro Falls and Mount Talinis.

Guests will surely enjoy dining al fresco at the gardens, fishing at the pond, walking around the property, welcoming the fresh air breeze and crossing over from the picnic ground to the reception area through the hanging bridge which is located in the middle of the camp.

Forest Camp rents out four family cottages for those who want to spend the night or the whole weekend, five small picnic huts, one function hall, two natural pools with a cascading waterfall and a charming landscaped garden.

Sansrival
Now, the final and best adventure of all – a food trip to one of Negros Oriental’s most popular dining destinations.

Sans Rival, simply named after the house specialty, is a restaurant and café that invites every visitor that comes to Dumaguete to have a taste of their famous sansrival, silvanas and other specialty cakes that will definitely leave your senses craving for more.

Looking at the tempting fares on display may leave you undecided about which ones to try, but one thing is for sure… All of the things you will find inside Sans Rival are guaranteed to give you the kind of mouth-watering goodness that will make you come back to Dumaguete for more.

Sansrival, a chilled cake made from layers of sweet cashew wafers filled with creamy butter icing and nuts, may be brought home from Dumaguete. Just be sure to order your sansrival from the café a few days in advance so they can give you a frozen cake that will be able to last your flight back home. Family and friends will surely be surprised and delighted to receive this Dumaguete delicacy as a pasalubong.

TRAVEL NOTES:

How to Get There
Domestic carriers have flights from Manila to Dumaguete City, the capital of Negros Oriental. For bookings, you may call Philippine Airlines at (63 2) 855 8888 or Air Philippines at (63 2) 857 5258.

Take Home
The Negros Oriental Arts and Heritage (NOAH) is one of the pioneer stone craft factories in the Philippines. During the Marcos regime, gifts for Malacanang Palace guests and members of the diplomatic corps are ordered by then First Lady Imelda Marcos herself from NOAH. This is where one can find excellent handcrafted stoneware pieces that make for perfect souvenirs.

NOAH
1 Juan Luna St., South Poblacion,
Bacong, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 424 0005
www.noahphil.com

Bahura Resort and Spa
Km. 19/20 Maayong Tubig,
Dauin, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 425 2054
www.bahura.com

Private Residence VIP Resort
Lipayo, Dauin, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 425 2315
privateresidencevipresort.com

ATV Adventure Tours
(63 906) 554 2105, (63 917) 608 0558

Sansrival
3 San Jose St., Dumaguete City
(63 35) 225 4093

For other information on Negros Oriental, you may contact Maritoni Mascardo of the Provincial Tourism Office at (63 2) 225 1825 / 422 0675 or visit the Negros Oriental Tourism website at www.negor.gov.ph.

A-Kayaking We Will Go

Thanks to the Eskimos, this cute floating contraption called kayak reached Philippine shores and is now one of the hottest emerging water sports in this sun-drenched land of ours.

Made up of tree bark, the kayak is the standard boat of the Alaskans in navigating the icy waters in the Arctic state. And when it first appeared in Philippine waters via the United States, the humble Eskimo boat has morphed into something trendy and sporty capable of navigating any body of water in the archipelago.

An enhanced version of its crude Alaskan ancestor, kayaks today are made up of plastic and unsinkable material, making it a flotation device in itself. With its sleek design and double-bladed paddle, it is very easy to maneuver even for first-timers.

“Kayaking is one of the most popular aquasports worldwide belonging to the paddling community, to name some, canoeing, sculling, dragon boating and most recently surf board paddling. It is also the third most watched sport at the Olympics,” says PKA president Val Camara, exponent of recreational kayaking in the country.

Spending most of his life in water- and water sports-related occupations, he founded Philippine Kayaking Association in 1997 to popularize the sport in the country.

“The Philippines is one big coastal community, being one of the world’s biggest archipelago and is a natural playing field for water sports and nature adventure travel,” he enthused.

Camara pointed out that sports and leisure have become necessary for a healthy lifestyle. Filipinos look to the islands and the beach for physical fitness while others, for fun, action and camaraderie.

With his passion for the new-found sport, he and his wife Didi started off the Philippine Kayaking Series and paddled to touristic destinations such as Taal Lake, Balayan Bay, Ternate, Corregidor and Verde Island, among others.

They later tried their hand in white water kayaking in Chico River in Kalinga province which gave them not only their dose of adrenaline rush, but a deeper appreciation of the sport as a business venture.

Kayaking in Hundred Islands
Hundred Islands National Park Alaminos City, Pangasinan is an amazing cluster of 123 rock formations scattered around Lingayen Gulf. For decades, the only way of exploring the islands is through small motorized outrigger boats. Touring this geological wonder has been revolutionized with the introduction of kayaking and adventure tours in recent years.

With its calm waters, white sand beaches, vibrant marine life and unexplored sights, Hundred Islands, appeared to be cut out by Mother Nature to be the country’s “kayaking capital.”

The Hundred Islands Eco-Tours Association (HIETA), a community-based organization which the Camara couple helped organize, has been offering eco-tours for adventurers who want to go back to the basics of life with close-to-nature activities. The kayak adventure package, which can be customized for corporate team-building activities, also rediscovers the lesser known attractions of the exotic island chain.

HIETA’s newly-developed eco-tour route starts in the coastal barangay of Bolo which has a long stretch of fine gray sand beach. It passes through undulating rock formations of moderate difficulty and gives one a glimpse of some of the unnamed islands up close and other breath-taking sights.

The 30-minute or so leisurely hike ends at a cove known as Camantiles Island, HIETA’s base camp where participants will pitch tent and rough it out and sleep under the stars. The area is almost enclosed, making it an ideal place for the uninitiated to work on their paddling skills with a brief kayaking clinic.

In no time, guests will find themselves paddling their way to nirvana and sheer enjoyment, with their fear of deep water already conquered. With the unsinkable boat, a life vest and calm waters, Hundred Islands is perhaps the safest and most enjoyable place to kayak.

With its narrow body, kayaks enable paddlers to reach narrow openings unreachable by motorized bancas.

The kayaking route includes Shell Island, Century Cave, mangrove forest, Quirino Island’s cave and underground river, Cuenco Island, bat caves, and a host of interesting sights.

The islands of Cagao, Macapagal and Marcos has short but powdery white sand beaches and clear waters. The latter has an inland underground pool called Imelda Cave where intrepid souls can jump from about 15 feet above.

Governor’s Island, one of the core islets, has the only air-conditioned accommodation with the bungalow donated by Pinoy Big Brother. At low tide the day, a sand bar connects it with the adjoining Virgin Island.

Children’s Island, as it name suggests, is tops for kids because of its shallow and clear waters. Nearby is Quezon Island where beach bums converge to swim, bathe or snorkel. HIETA has a kayak rental post for those who just want to paddle in the immediate waters.

Philippine Kayaking Series
With the growing popularity of kayaking, PKA and Sun and Sea Sports System reactivated the Philippine Kayaking Series dubbed Kayak Explore Hundred Islands Summer Eco-Challenge with drew over a hundred participants from all over Luzon.

Supported by the Department of Tourism and the Philippine Convention and Visitors Corporation (PCVC), the Series aims to promote kayaking as an environment-friendly adventure, as well as the country as a potential market for water sports.

Riding on the momentum of PKS’ first wave, the Series will paddle through the waters in the Cavite-Corregidor-Bataan Crossing in September and the Cebu-Bohol Crossing in November.

As an environment-friendly and user-friendly sport, advocacy is one of the strong points of kayaking. In the second leg which will coincide with the Coastal Clean-Up Month, participants will have their share in preserving the coastal ecosystem of Manila Bay. Stakeholders in the area led by Caylabne Bay Resort and the Corregidor Foundation Inc. partner with the organizers in the undertaking.

Other kayaking havens
Because of the country’s archipelagic nature, every body of water, whether it be a river, white water bay, lake, mangrove area, cove or the open sea can be a haven for paddlers.

But there are places which have a natural advantage because of their location, natural attraction, and the availability of kayaks. Among these are Taal Lake and Anilao in Batangas, Subic Bay, Manila Bay in Cavite, Puerto Galera in Mindoro, Boracay, Mactan Island, and Bohol.

The Calamian Group in northern Palawan, which is like a blown-up version of Hundred Islands, is an emerging kayaking hot spot because of its unspoilt waters and lush marine life which make kayaking a multi-sensory experience. Picturesque Kayangan Lake in Coron is best explored onboard a kayak.

It is interesting to note that in many beach resorts, chances are there is a kayak waiting for a curious visitor to paddle his way in the placid waters.

For inquiries, call (63 2) 872 5478, (63 915) 435 9321, e-mail sunsea_didi@yahoo.com or visit www.kayakphilippines.ws.

The Jetscape Adventure

Late 2008, Jetscape Adventures Inc. introduced a new addition to the many tropical activities one may enjoy when visiting Cebu by taking two popular and highly enjoyable activities: jetskiing and island hopping. Jetscape Adventures fused the two together and came up with a totally new and radical adventure for Cebu’s more active tourist. What was once enjoyed only by local jetski owners in Cebu may now be experienced by our visiting tourists.

Jetscape Adventures takes its guests off the beaten track and into the water for a tropical adventure like no other. Imagine cruising from one tropical island to another on board a fleet of Jetskis followed by a speedboat loaded with refreshments and tour provisions to make for an enjoyable day under the sun. The guys over at Jetscape Adventures have meticulously thought out and planned the routes, destinations, activities, provisions and gear needed for the trips so guests can just hop on, leave their worries behind and soak up the experience.

Each Jetscape tour consists of a guide on board his own jetski leading the pack of guest jetskis through pre-determined routes and destinations specially plotted according to water conditions and guests riding abilities. The speedboat bringing up the rear of each tour also has space for guests who want to tag along with their buddies on the jetskis. The boat also serves as a floating lounge during stops, loaded with a cooler filled with refreshments, snorkeling gear, life jackets and towels. It is also decked out with cushioned seats, a retractable roof and an iPod sound system to make for a comfortable trip. Guests not only get to enjoy the thrill of jetskiing and sight seeing through nearby islands but also get a chance to indulge in some of Cebu’s popular tropical activities such as snorkeling, swimming and sunbathing capped off with a sumptuous fresh seafood lunch on one of our island destinations.

These five hour adventure tours provide a complete tropical adventure all in half a day. It provides its guests a chance to experience the many sun activities Cebu and it’s neighboring islands can offer. This is time well spent especially for those visiting with limited time and don’t have the luxury of spending a few days at the beach to get their fill of the sun.

Travel Notes

How It Started

Jetski touring or off-shore jetskiing has been gaining popularity the past few years. This may be attributed to personal watercraft(PWC) manufacturers leaning towards the production of bigger, more reliable and more fuel efficient machines. Back in the 90’s PWC manufacturers Yamaha, Seadoo and Kawasaki were focused on producing racing machines and basic recreational machines. Now they’ve geared towards catering to the touring or long range riding enthusiasts with the introduction of 4-Stroke engines on bigger 3-seat hulls that can carry more fuel and handle bigger waves and rougher seas with comfort and peace of mind.

With this development, the maximum range of one full tank of gas was greatly extended thus making it possible to do open sea crossings for as long as water conditions allow for safe passage. More and more people got into the idea of jetskiing to farther destinations as compared to before. When jetskiing first became popular, riders would just go around in circles along the shoreline for fun. Now that these touring machines have gas tanks as big as the average car and can go past 100 nautical miles on a calm water day, just imagine the possibilities.

A country of over 7000 islands makes for the perfect playground for jetski touring. I’ve met some members of a club in Manila who helped me set up Jetscape Adventures sometime last year. This group of over 30 members nationwide were the jetski touring pioneers in the country. They’ve done previously unimaginable crossings such as Lucena City to Boracay, Batangas to Palawan, Legaspi City to Masbate and much more. Getting to meet and hearing the stories from some of these guys just makes you want to hop on a jetski and join them. With what we offer with our adventure tours, we’re able at get a feel of what it’s all about. It’s a truly great experience, if you ask me.

Jetscape Adventures Standard Tour:

Half-day tour onboard Waverunner (self-driven) with Chaseboat:
Waverunner Solo – Php 12,800/pax
Waverunner Duo – Php 6,800/pax
Boat passenger – Php 2,800/pax

Package cost is inclusive of a light meal, onboard refreshments, island fees, use of snorkeling gear and US Coast Guard-approved personal floatation device.

The Island Hopping Tour Stops:
From the Northern tip of Mactan Island, ride along the Eastern coastline that boasts of the Philippines’ best and most diverse island resorts. Enjoy the scenic stretch that takes you from the stunning Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort and Spa down to the Caribbean-inspired Plantation Bay Resort.

Cross the Hilutungan Channel and stop at Sulpa islet to stretch out on its lovely white sand beach.

Check out the website of Jetscape Adventures for other tour details.

Jetscape Adventures
Cebu Yacht Club
Lapu-Lapu City, Cebu
Tel. No. (63 32) 340 6223
E-mail: info@jetscapeadventures.com
www.jetscapeadventures.com

The Jetscape Adventure

The El Nido Experience: Surreal, Wonderful... Priceless

If you’ve never had a surreal or spiritual experience, I suggest you go and visit El Nido – a place National Geographic called “the Philippines’ last frontier.” Once you’re there, the first thing you do is drink. Yes, drink in all the sights because this place is truly heaven on earth with its turquoise-green waters, clear blue skies, and towering marble cliffs. The rich contrasts of colors and the sheer drama of the seascape create a feeling of awe and reverence of nature’s pristine beauty. And because El Nido is home to a wide range of flora and fauna, many of which are endemic or found nowhere else on earth, it has been declared in 1998 as a Protected Area.

During my trip back in 2007, I took pictures of everything – the white sand, the boats, the trees, the birds, the people, the cliffs, the caves, sunsets, shells, corals, to name a few. And each picture I captured looked like a postcard. I’m not bragging. Even amateur photographers like me can be seized with the urge and the inspiration to take a snapshot of everything because everything seemed perfect. Everything in El Nido is picture perfect.

Once there, you can choose from a variety of Island hopping tours to see some of the 45 islands and islets that may include meals and a guided tour. You can snorkel, kayak, fish, and even windsurf. And there’s a likely chance of seeing hawksbill turtles, manta rays, dolphins, whale sharks, and the dugong. Catch a glimpse too of the Cathedral Cove, caves, and the guardhouse of birds’ nest gatherers. The nests are actually made into the prized Chinese delicacy nido soup and are worth their weight in gold. You can also enjoy a mangrove tour along the Aberawan River where you can watch egrets roost among the mangrove trees at the mouth of the river.

One of the many islands worth visiting is the Cadlao Island, the largest in El Nido, which is closest to the town proper and has the highest peak. Aside from the white sand beaches, you can follow one of the many nature trails that lead to the charming saltwater Makaamo Lagoon. This lagoon, surrounded by mangroves is best enjoyed in silence at sunrise or sunset when the birds feed.

The Vigan Island, located near Pangulasian Island, also known as the “Snake Island” has a fine natural sandspit, an s-shaped sandbar that “snakes” off its shore. The sands pit is clearly visible only when the tide is low. On both sides are shallow swimming areas.

If you care for a taste of history, prehistoric or modern day, Lagen Island is a must-see place. The Leta-Leta Cave was an important burial site of the late Neolithic Age, where a collection of stone and shell artifacts, sophisticated pottery, stone ornaments, and shell beads were excavated by Dr. Robert Fox in 1965. This island was also one of the pit stops of the 5th season of the extremely popular reality show “The Amazing Race.” The island hosts as well a high diversity of birds including almost all of the species endemic to Palawan. The Lagen trail is one of the best sites for bird watching, more rewarding during the early morning or towards late afternoon.

To add to this surreal experience, head to Matinloc Island, the longest slim island in El Nido where you will find a secret beach. This beach is inaccessible by boat and is surrounded by steep rock walls. To reach this pocket of white sand, you’d have to swim underwater through a narrow crevice in a rock wall. Once you reach the place, you’d feel like you were in the set of the film “The Beach” which starred Leo di Caprio. Now, this is not such a far stretch once you find out that the author of the novel, Alex Garland, did live in El Nido for six months.

Go beneath the surface by going to any of the certified dive operators to get a crash course on scuba diving. There are over 30 dive sites in Bacuit Bay ranging in depth from six meters to 30 meters plus teeming with an array of marine wildlife, corals, walls, and tunnels. This sounds daunting but believe me, El Nido is the perfect place for the novice diver because dives are actually done on a beach in open water (albeit shallow) and the waters are crystal clear.

Go beyond the obvious treasures of El Nido and through the tourism office, book tours that can take you cliff climbing to get a birds-eye view of the islands or venture north of the town to cave exploring. If you want to create your own adventure, you can even rent a motorbike or a mountain bike to explore the local scenery. North of the town is a circular road round both sides of the mainland.

And if you who wish for more quiet and private escapes, bring a picnic basket and take a stroll along any one of the white sand beaches and discover the diverse variety of flora and fauna that abound. There are over 50 beaches to explore, so many in fact that you’d feel like you are on your own secluded beach. You will also find enchanting lagoons and caves that can take you to hidden beaches. Really romantic. Really perfect for honeymooners. Like Brooke Shields’ “Blue Lagoon.”

After a long day under the sun, you can unwind by availing of other services offered by the island – from massages, detox, to reflexology. Go to any restaurant to sample the sumptuous seafood specialties or head to a bar, listen to a live band and dance the night away.

Drinking in the sights, sounds, and experiences of this truly magical destination will intoxicate, invigorate and transform you. It’ll make you the quintessential eco-friendly traveler with the all the resorts active in the conservation of island and reef life. The surreal experience will move you to make as your mantra the adage, “take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, kill nothing but time.”

So when I left the wonderful island of El Nido, I had a fuller heart and a better perspective of the world with the knowledge that I have become a privileged witness to nature’s grandeur. I brought back with me hundreds of spectacular pictures and amazing memories - proofs of the indelible mark left on me by a truly priceless experience.

Travel Notes
El Nido Resorts
(63 2) 894 5644
www.elnidoresorts.com

Wind Riders and the Art of Taming a Kite

Walking inland, away from the predictable henna-tattoo, longa-burger chomping hordes on White Beach, it always seemed like 'Boracay's little secret', although it really never was a secret. The Boracay Funboard Cup (Windsurfing and Kiteboarding competition) is the longest running sports event in the country, going on its 21st year. People have known about Bulabog's amihan-whipped lagoon for over three decades now, but in the last few years, the area has truly come into its own, as kiteboarding and windsurfing have managed to become as big a draw in their own right as the cavalcade going on in the other side of the island. Numerous shops now offer kiteboarding and windsurfing lessons, equipment rental and advice, and Bulabog now seems to hum with its own vibe, with Russian charter flight tourists, Korean watersports packagees and adventuresome Manilenos all keeping things lively.

I have a penchant for seeking out activities that made my parents take out an extreme-sports clause on my life insurance (true fact), but I have to admit, I thought I had gone a little bit too far as I sat back in waist deep water, in my harness, strapped to a kite in the sky that is bucking like a stallion that has been whipped on the butt. And the wind is blowing, powerfully, straight towards the beach, prickly with powerlines, trees and boats. There is something supremely intense about floating on your back, waiting for the wind to come, and rip your harnessed self across the surface. The wind is screaming directly towards the beach, and a few tugs on the lines of the 14 square meters of fabric above you remind you that you are just like the cans dangling behind a 'just married' car. Play your cards right, and you are at one with all that is good in God's creation, skimming across a surreal calm sea; play it wrong, and you will find yourself plastered on the side of a 3rd floor resort window.

Kiteboarding is one sport where instruction is truly imperative. Actually, in good instructing hands, it is not that hard a sport to learn, and instructors will tell you of success stories with students from 8 to 80 years old. The best plan is a 3-day course, with the first day or day-and-a-half focusing solely on kite management, with the board to follow. The minute you get a kite up in the air, you realize this is not the same kite that daddy took you to the park to fly when you were younger. This kite has power. First time kiters start out on a small model (like a 3-square-meter surface area) to get the basics. The bar that you hold on to is like the baton that you hold on to when water skiing. The simplest configuration is a 2-line setup, where a pull on the left line makes the kite dive to the left, and a pull on the right line does the opposite. 4-line kites add the element of powering up or de-powering the kite. Think about sticking your hand out the window of a fast car and making a kind of wing with the wind. When the hand is level, you are aerodynamic, and you get no resistance. If you hold your hand sideways, you get the power of the oncoming wind. The adjustment between those two is what the extra 2 lines on a 4-line kite do for the kitesurfer. Big gust of wind pulling a bit too strong? Let out the bar and de-power the kite. Light wind day? Pull the bar back, and feel the power increase. As familiarity with the basics increases, so can the kite size. An average kite size for an average day might be around 12 square meters. Luckily, good instruction is easy to be had in Bulabog, whether it be from Hangin (double entendre of 'wind' in Tagalog and 'hanging up in the air') or Ken Nacor or Ocean Republic, all to be found on the backside of Boracay. Ken is my teacher, and had a great way of pushing one to the panic point in a gentle way. First steps were slowly made with managable-sized kites, with body dragging exercises, safety basics and a gradual move up to full-sized rigs.

After several days of kite familiarization, it was time to try out the board. Having some plank experience in my years, this was not a problem. The giant horse-powered kite hovering above me was the great intimidator. Ken, wading out in the water with me, set me straight and reminded me what I knew (and didn't know, for that matter). “Ok...now bring the kite to the left...now hard to the right...now down, hard! Now STAND UP!!!” And there I was, the happiest man on Boracay, letting out a stupid yelp as I got up and started cruising across the lagoon. To keep the kite going, you have to bob the kite in and out of the 'power window', while still maintaining your balance and carving on the board as it planes across the water. I managed a glorious run down the length of Bulabog, but by the time I got to the far end, I remembered that I did not yet know how to 'tack' back the other way. So I had to dump the kite down and do the walk of shame back to the kite shed, carrying the board and kite with me over my shoulder like a neon sign saying, 'I only know how to go one way in this sport'. But I didn't care, the ride was payment enough, and the ride was worth every step lugging the equipment back. I immediately went back out on the water, to try it again.

Travel Notes
How to get there:
Wind aficionados, of both kite and windsurf varieties, usually head to either Boracay or Lake Caliraya, if a close-to-Manila option is needed. Domestic carriers have daily direct flights to Caticlan that will get you right in the action in a heartbeat.

Hangin Kite Center
Bulabog Beach, Boracay Island
(63 36) 288 3208 / 288 2662
www.kiteboardingboracay.com

Where to stay:
Accommodation options overflow here. You can pick a place based on budget and proximity to what activities you will be pursuing.

Megafauna of Donsol: Seeking the Company of Sharks

A feeling of tense excitement builds up when the spotter or the Butanding Interaction Officer, also popularly known as BIO, gives cue of whale shark sighting to the boat captain. In a swift moment, you will find yourself suspended freely on water surface, gasping for air through the snorkel, and trying to direct your gaze toward something. Against the shadowy bottom, you see a creature with its mouth wide open, stretching up to 4 feet wide, and seemingly ready to wolf down anything on its path. As it swims gently beneath you, your entire peripheral vision is filled with shiny silver spots marking the back of the animal. Then you catch sight of its crescent-shaped dorsal fin that is taller than man. Gracefully undulating its tail, the whale shark swims away through the cloudy water and leaves you in sheer awe.

This is how most tourists experience whale sharks for the first time in Donsol, Sorsogon. What is even more amazing is that this experience can be repeated over in a single day. Though Donsol is not the easiest place to get to, approximately 400 km. southeast of Manila, the breathtaking experience of whale shark interaction is worth it.

Annual pilgrimage
The whale shark is often mistaken for a whale due to its incredible size and misleading name. Growing up to 20 meters long and weighing as much as 34 tons, this huge animal is the biggest fish and living shark in the world. Despite its size, the whale shark feeds on plankton, free-floating animals and plants that are almost invisible to the naked eye. It swims constantly to survive, following currents that lead them to plankton-rich feeding grounds. After the feeding frenzy that last for a few months, the giants head to another destination.

Encapsulated by Ticao Pass, the coastal waters of Donsol is an important feeding ground of whale sharks. They gather between the months of November and June to feast. There is no exact number yet on how many whale sharks visit Donsol annually though experts believe that Donsol hosts probably the highest density of the species in the world. WWF-Philippines, the conservation organization, has already photo-identified more than 100 unique individuals, and the number continues to grow.

Donsol gave birth to whale shark tourism in 1998 in the face of daunting challenges. Shark hunters, ready for the kill, move in to Donsol when the big aggregation of these huge animals was made known to the outside world. The butchery of at least six whale sharks made it to the headlines of major dailies, propelling cries for the protection of the animal. In the events that followed, the Philippine government made a nationwide ban of whale shark fishery.

Several years later, this coastal town made a mark as an important tourism destination for both the local and international market. In its “Best of Asia” special report in 2004, Time Magazine named the whale shark interaction in Donsol as the Best Animal Encounter. One hundred percent whale shark sighting in a given day is not guaranteed, but 15 swimming encounters with these gentle giants in less than 3 hours is not unusual in Donsol.

Close encounter
Shark watchers have to register at the Donsol Municipal Tourism Office at the Butanding Interaction Center. Upon payment of dues, the attending staff will issue a boarding pass, which indicates boat and BIO assignment, and will lead the tourists to a video briefing. The BIO is the local guide for whale shark interaction and is responsible for the safety of the tourists at all times during a boat trip. Traditional sea vessels – motorized outrigger canoes typically about 6 meters or 20 feet in length – are used with a maximum of seven guest passengers onboard. In addition to BIO, each boat has a boat captain, a spotter and a skipper.

Once a whale shark is spotted, the boat positions itself a few meters ahead of the shark in preparation for all the snorkelers to ease themselves quietly into the water. Everyone has to be ready and anticipating because it rarely takes more than 30-60 seconds between spotting a shark and getting in the water. If one takes any longer, the tourist is likely to miss the opportunity for a close encounter. Getting ready means putting on your life vest, fins, mask and snorkel, and paying attention to the instructions of BIO.

Keep in mind the code of conduct for whale shark interaction for the ultimate goal of this highly specialized tourism is conservation.

Code of Conduct:
1. Do not touch or ride the whale shark.
2. Do not restrict the movement of the shark or impede its natural path.
3. The recommended distance from the whale shark is 3 meters from the head or body and 4 meters from the tail.
4. Do not use flash photography.
5. Do not use scuba, scooters, jet-skis or any other motorized underwater propulsion.
6. A maximum of 6 swimmers per shark is allowed
7. There must only be one boat per whale shark

Transforming economic landscape
Donsol took a big leap forward when whale shark tourism started more than ten years ago. From its humble beginning, the whale shark tourism now brings in revenue to the local government and the community. Based on tourist arrivals and expenditures, Donsol contributed approximately 35 million pesos to the national economy in 2005, and its contribution remains unmatched in the whole of Bicol region.

The BIOs and boat operators, gaining additional income from visitor spending for tourism and related services, are the most obvious beneficiaries of the industry. Every arriving tourist means a demand for transport and guiding services. Over a four-year period, demands for boat trips posted an annual increase of 76%, rising from 340 in 2002 to 1,845 in 2005. Beach resorts, home-stays and food services also sprung, getting more tourists to stay longer and spend more.

The phenomenal increase in tourist arrivals, 110% annually from 2002 to 2005, effectively attracted business investments in Donsol. Years ago, operator-assisted telephone communication was the fastest way to get through the outside world. Today, thanks to the major telecommunications companies operating in this town, bookings and even inquiries on whale shark sightings can be done through SMS.

Making a difference
Donsol changed the direction of whale shark conservation in the country. Tourism is flourishing and its contribution to the growth of local economy manifests that the gentle giants are more valuable alive than dead. And now, more than ever, the people of Donsol learned that the sea is truly their life.

Travel Notes
Best time of the year to visit Donsol. Whale sharks are present between the months of November and June. March and April offer greater chances of sightings.

Getting to Donsol. Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific carry passengers to Bicol via their daily Manila-Legazpi City flights. Donsol is also accessible by a 12-hour bus ride from Manila to Legazpi City. It takes another one hour to reach Donsol from Legazpi City. Vans going to Donsol can be boarded at the Satellite Market.

Accommodation. Donsol offers Department of Tourism-accredited home-stays with rates ranging from PHP 400-800 per room/day. There are also beach resorts that provide air-conditioned rooms.

Caveats. Tourist influx in the long weekends of Holy Week and Labor Day is massive.

Contact information. For more details on whale shark interaction package, food and accommodation, contact the following:

Nenita Pedragoza, Municipal Tourism Officer
Mobile number: 0919 7070394/09178681626
Amy Detera, Department of Tourism Region 5
Number: (63 52) 482 0712

Whale and Dolphin Watching

Not much is known in the Philippines for marine voyeurism except for accidental encounters with the aquatic wild. Not many know of the interactive part of marine preservation. But in a number of places here in the Philippines, towns and island resorts flourish because of tracking and chasing down dolphins and whales. Here in our own country, there are places where one could observe these marine creatures in their natural environment. A couple of such places where we have been are Bais City in Negros Oriental and Pamilacan Island in the province of Bohol, both of which have fed our thirst for adventure.

But then you make ask, what adventure? There isn’t much to see aside from the whales and the dolphins really. But that is precisely the point of the adventure – to be in tune with the nothingness (aside from the sight), and to experience the sudden slowness of time that only being one with the wild could bring.

Bais City is a town normally thriving with sugarcane as their primary source of income, but a few people here have dedicated their lifestyles to preserving common dolphins and earn at the same time. Here is where it is easiest to finds dolphins they say, even marine science students from nearby universities do their studies and data gathering here. Pamilacan Island, on the other hand, is a resort island south of Bohol. This place has been a favorite vacation haven for foreign tourists. What most people do not know is that the waters around this island are dolphin feeding ground, most specifically the Cervera Shoal. After Cervera was declared as a marine sanctuary, fishing in this area was prohibited so as not to deprive these dolphins of fish, their primary food.

Bais City lies at the bosom of the North and South Bais Bays just north of Dumaguete. When we got to the Bais Dolphin and Whale Watching Wharf, some four or five Koreans were already getting on an outrigger so we ran to catch up and join their group. We cruised towards the mouth of the bay. After not so long a time, dolphins came out of nowhere and approached our bangka from the front, dove down deep and rejoined us just below the bow as if the bangka was one of them. It really was not hard looking for the dolphins, in fact, they were too accommodating for approaching our bangka by their own.

Unfortunately, the foreigners were the ones who were in front so they had their turn of observing the dolphins before I did. When I got my turn, some of the dolphins have seemed to have left and only four of them remained wandering and spinning just under the keel. The sun was high up in the sky and the water was warm, I reached down as low as I could and run my fingers on top of the water. These creatures seemed very friendly indeed. In the short time I was running my fingers through the surface of the water, I sensed some connection with the dolphins. One of them would follow the direction of my hand – and it made my heart skip a beat. I did not sense the Koreans behind me for those moments. It was just me and the dolphins. No wonder people have come to know Bais as one of the best places to find and interact with dolphins.

Another of our dolphin encounters was around Pamilacan Island, the Cervera Shoal. From south of Panglao Island, all those loaded boats leave for Cervera Shoal at the same time at around 2.30 in the afternoon. It is at this time, they say, that the dolphins are most likely to be found. True enough, even from afar, all those in the same boat as we were attempting to stand just to see fins protruding out of the water surface. It was like a fluvial parade with every boat racing to get the best spot at the middle of the shoal.

It was here that we realized how shallow the shoal was. The water was crystal clear and we could see the white sand from beneath the shadows of the dolphins. At first there were six, then, from nowhere came many more. It was actually an entire pod of dolphins numbering to around thirty or so who graced us.

People were cheering the dolphins; whistling, clapping and doing strange sounds as if calling out for the creatures. Flashes were everywhere as well, as pictures are only what one could have from Cervera Shoal. It was hard to get to the dolphins at Cervera Shoal, but all the hassle was meager to top the experience of being with the dolphins.

Moments after, we heard some screaming – and happy at that. When we looked starboard, we saw the magnificence of a whale breaching. It was humongous; I think close enough, it could swallow me whole. But there was no fear in us and the visitors we were with. For a moment, there we were, only watching the whale put up a show for us. Imagine a scene from Free Willy; it was a bit like that, but much more exhilarating. All of us watchers succumbed to silence. I think nobody breathed. I could only smell the sea, and feel the heat of the sun on my cheeks. And in all of these, was a smile I could only imagine was on the face of the whale.

Our adventures in both islands still give me chills down my spine as I remember them. The excitement is still very much alive. And given a chance, we would go back to both sites, and perhaps continue our exploration in other sites as well. It is always a worthwhile trip to take. Whale and dolphin watching gave the sense that we were one with the marine life, that we were part of the sea. We live every day as it is now. We explore the seas, we dance with the waves. And every time the sea reflects the sky, we are on the look-out for dolphins and whales to take our breath away.

Travel Notes
Domestic carriers have daily flights from Manila to Dumaguete in Negros Oriental and Tagbilaran in Bohol.

Useful Numbers:
Negros Oriental:
Bais Tourism Office (63 35)541 5161 / 402 8174
Bohol:
Pamilacan Island Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours (63 38) 540 9279 / (63 38)540 9376
whales.bohol.ph/index.php

Where to stay in Panglao Island

Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa
Brgy. Tawala, Panglao Island, Bohol
www.eskayabeach.com

Flushing Meadows Resort & Playground
Brgy. Dao, Dauis, Panglao Island, Bohol
www.flushingmeadows.com.ph
Where to stay in Bais City

Bahia de Bais Hotel
Bais City, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 402 8850 / 402 8851

La Planta Hotel
Bais City, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 403 8321 / 541 5755

Whale and Dolphin Watching

Not much is known in the Philippines for marine voyeurism except for accidental encounters with the aquatic wild. Not many know of the interactive part of marine preservation. But in a number of places here in the Philippines, towns and island resorts flourish because of tracking and chasing down dolphins and whales. Here in our own country, there are places where one could observe these marine creatures in their natural environment. A couple of such places where we have been are Bais City in Negros Oriental and Pamilacan Island in the province of Bohol, both of which have fed our thirst for adventure.

But then you make ask, what adventure? There isn’t much to see aside from the whales and the dolphins really. But that is precisely the point of the adventure – to be in tune with the nothingness (aside from the sight), and to experience the sudden slowness of time that only being one with the wild could bring.

Bais City is a town normally thriving with sugarcane as their primary source of income, but a few people here have dedicated their lifestyles to preserving common dolphins and earn at the same time. Here is where it is easiest to finds dolphins they say, even marine science students from nearby universities do their studies and data gathering here. Pamilacan Island, on the other hand, is a resort island south of Bohol. This place has been a favorite vacation haven for foreign tourists. What most people do not know is that the waters around this island are dolphin feeding ground, most specifically the Cervera Shoal. After Cervera was declared as a marine sanctuary, fishing in this area was prohibited so as not to deprive these dolphins of fish, their primary food.

Bais City lies at the bosom of the North and South Bais Bays just north of Dumaguete. When we got to the Bais Dolphin and Whale Watching Wharf, some four or five Koreans were already getting on an outrigger so we ran to catch up and join their group. We cruised towards the mouth of the bay. After not so long a time, dolphins came out of nowhere and approached our bangka from the front, dove down deep and rejoined us just below the bow as if the bangka was one of them. It really was not hard looking for the dolphins, in fact, they were too accommodating for approaching our bangka by their own.

Unfortunately, the foreigners were the ones who were in front so they had their turn of observing the dolphins before I did. When I got my turn, some of the dolphins have seemed to have left and only four of them remained wandering and spinning just under the keel. The sun was high up in the sky and the water was warm, I reached down as low as I could and run my fingers on top of the water. These creatures seemed very friendly indeed. In the short time I was running my fingers through the surface of the water, I sensed some connection with the dolphins. One of them would follow the direction of my hand – and it made my heart skip a beat. I did not sense the Koreans behind me for those moments. It was just me and the dolphins. No wonder people have come to know Bais as one of the best places to find and interact with dolphins.

Another of our dolphin encounters was around Pamilacan Island, the Cervera Shoal. From south of Panglao Island, all those loaded boats leave for Cervera Shoal at the same time at around 2.30 in the afternoon. It is at this time, they say, that the dolphins are most likely to be found. True enough, even from afar, all those in the same boat as we were attempting to stand just to see fins protruding out of the water surface. It was like a fluvial parade with every boat racing to get the best spot at the middle of the shoal.

It was here that we realized how shallow the shoal was. The water was crystal clear and we could see the white sand from beneath the shadows of the dolphins. At first there were six, then, from nowhere came many more. It was actually an entire pod of dolphins numbering to around thirty or so who graced us.

People were cheering the dolphins; whistling, clapping and doing strange sounds as if calling out for the creatures. Flashes were everywhere as well, as pictures are only what one could have from Cervera Shoal. It was hard to get to the dolphins at Cervera Shoal, but all the hassle was meager to top the experience of being with the dolphins.

Moments after, we heard some screaming – and happy at that. When we looked starboard, we saw the magnificence of a whale breaching. It was humongous; I think close enough, it could swallow me whole. But there was no fear in us and the visitors we were with. For a moment, there we were, only watching the whale put up a show for us. Imagine a scene from Free Willy; it was a bit like that, but much more exhilarating. All of us watchers succumbed to silence. I think nobody breathed. I could only smell the sea, and feel the heat of the sun on my cheeks. And in all of these, was a smile I could only imagine was on the face of the whale.

Our adventures in both islands still give me chills down my spine as I remember them. The excitement is still very much alive. And given a chance, we would go back to both sites, and perhaps continue our exploration in other sites as well. It is always a worthwhile trip to take. Whale and dolphin watching gave the sense that we were one with the marine life, that we were part of the sea. We live every day as it is now. We explore the seas, we dance with the waves. And every time the sea reflects the sky, we are on the look-out for dolphins and whales to take our breath away.

Travel Notes
Domestic carriers have daily flights from Manila to Dumaguete in Negros Oriental and Tagbilaran in Bohol.

Useful Numbers:
Negros Oriental:
Bais Tourism Office (63 35)541 5161 / 402 8174
Bohol:
Pamilacan Island Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours (63 38) 540 9279 / (63 38)540 9376
whales.bohol.ph/index.php

Where to stay in Panglao Island

Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa
Brgy. Tawala, Panglao Island, Bohol
www.eskayabeach.com

Flushing Meadows Resort & Playground
Brgy. Dao, Dauis, Panglao Island, Bohol
www.flushingmeadows.com.ph

Where to stay in Bais City

Bahia de Bais Hotel
Bais City, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 402 8850 / 402 8851

La Planta Hotel
Bais City, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 403 8321 / 541 5755

Ultralight Flying

I've always loved flying. I know most people would automatically say the same thing, but I go a little too far sometimes. I'm that annoying guy that leans over you in the airplane to look out the window when landing or scrambles for maps to connect what he is seeing below him with topography. Having been assigned the topic of finding ‘Best Views’ for a travel guide, I decided to find a way to get myself beyond the guardrail and up in the air. That, I thought, is truly a 'best view'.

Doing a little research, I came across the Angeles City Flying Club (ACFC). The pilots of these brightly colored, light aircraft were do a few stunt tricks, aerial dive-bombing with flour bombs and also offer rides to those interested in getting a taste of the wind on their face hundreds of feet up in the air with nothing between them and the ground and the seat they were strapped to.

Usually the ACFC operates from its home base, Woodland Airpark located near Magalang at the foot of Mt. Arayat about 18Km north east of Clark International Airport. The club has an 8.5 hectare facility with a café overlooking the airfield, a swimming pool and some overnight accommodation for those who want to immerse themselves totally in the flying experience. The club has a 650 meter grass airstrip/runway, 3 massive hangers accommodating over 25 different aircraft, an excellent maintenance facility and plenty of room for other recreational activities.

Club members who hold a current license can rent from a variety of planes; walk-in guests are welcomed and can take a Trial Introduction Flights (TIF), for either 10 minutes hovering around the nearby Arayat area. Would-be aviators can also take a longer flight (approximately 25 minutes) over lahar fields, tropical rain forest and the nearby Candaba Swamp wildlife and bird refuge. The instructor will even hand over the controls and let his guest pilot take a shot at keeping the plane straight and level. The Club is open during most of the daylight hours every day but Wednesday. The club offers comprehensive flight training all the way to certification (about 30 hours of flying time) at a surprisingly affordable rate.

For my flight from Clark International Airport during the Balloon Fiesta, we were going to explore the area around the airport which was fine by me. Getting into the ultralight was akin to sitting down in a flying go-kart, as ultralights are essentially just that. We strapped on mega-seatbelts, donned ginormous helmets and made sure our intercom setup was working. Once the engine fired (it sounded like a big lawnmower), we taxied out to the runway. Given that the 3,200-meter long twin runways at Clark were designed for the contingency of the Space Shuttle overflying its usual California landing strip, being in a tiny aluminum and fabric get up on that huge slice of tarmac felt a bit like being on a skateboard on EDSA. As we started our take-off roll, the motor screamed up to red line, and we managed to lift off surprisingly quickly within a few hundred meters.

As the Air Show proceedings continued below on the mammoth airfield, I remembered that a few months back, the new Airbus Industrie's A380, the world's largest passenger aircraft, had made a pit stop there on its inaugural flight around the world. Up in the air, the whole of Crow Valley, where USAF used to hold target practice, stretched up to the Pinatubo caldera. History buffs have an open-book opportunity from up here; down below I saw the old Japanese runway where the first missions that put the word 'Kamikazi' into the historic lexicon departed. Dizon Farms grows kalamansi there now. Clark Air Base, now a free port zone, was America's biggest Air Force base outside of the US for almost a century, employing up to 15,000 at its peak, before Pinatubo's eruption and contract negotiation turned the land back into Pinoy hands in 1991. It was the place where 200 Japanese Zeros dramatically kick-started the war in the Pacific as they decimated the US Army Air Force's Asian forces the day after Pearl Harbor.

There are several different setups for ultralight airplanes. Some have fiberglass cowlings and one-in-front-of-the-other (tandem) set ups. Our plane was a side-by-side configuration with seats mounted onto a pretty basic frame, with a taut fabric-covered wing. I was excited to try it, as the fact that you could get up in the air and surf the breeze in this simple contraption seemed to defy logic. In another aircraft, my over-excited, over-confident lawyer friend was not really allowed to touch the joystick (as most people should not, if it’s their first time, I reckon). She came back a bit disappointed as she was told to sit on her hands but my pilot was kind enough to let me take the controls as we banked into our landing. Just like with scuba-diving, good flight instructors can probably discern between dangerous hubris and cautious capableness and I would like to think I have the latter, but I was amazed I was given the chance to swing the plane into a turn, hovering above Fields Avenue in Angeles, as the runway got bigger and bigger. I was struck with the fact that on one hand, it’s probably like learning how to drive; the more you do it, the more it becomes second nature! On the other hand, I couldn't shake off the fact that a little mess up would surely result in tumbling straight down to terra firma, which would seem even more than firma from a fall that high. As with our take-off, I was surprised at how short a runway length was needed to land the ultralight. We touched down, smooth as butter. It must have taken a week to wipe the perma-grin off my face.

Getting There and Getting Up in the Air
A car, a good set of directions (which the kind folk at ACFC can always help you with) and a road map are probably the best options for getting to the facilities, but there are always members heading up from Manila that might be coaxed into coughing up a backseat for those interested. Commuting is not that difficult as well, with all kinds of transpo options heading northward to Pampanga. Hotels can give advice on comfy Coaster vans, or the dozen or so bus lines that can drop you off on their way to Northern Luzon. Woodland Airpark is located in Sta. Maria Magalang, in Pamanga Province. If coming from Manila, exit off the Northern Luzon Expressway at the Sta. Iñes (the last exit) and head north east towards Mt. Arayat. Drive time is about 2 hours from Manila and much less from Angeles. Contact ACFC at their cell number +63 (918) 920 3039 or at the Club’s land line at +63 (45) 865 1356, or get the full scoop at www.angelesflying.com.

Trail Introduction Flight around nearby Arayat area: Php 1550
25-minute flight over lahar fields and Candaba Swamp: Php 2550

Jeepney Tours Manila has an Ultralight Flying Adventure Tour which will take you from Manila to Pampanga onboard a jumbo air-conditioned jeepney. This tour includes the ultralight flying experience, lunch at Abe’s Farm and a spa treatment from Nurture Spa.

Jeepney Tours Manila
Hop-On, Hop-Off Travel Tours, Inc.
(63 2) 638 6644 / 994 6636
info@jeepneytours.com
www.jeepneytours.com

Jeepney Tours can also customize packages to make your trip more memorable. Call the Jeepney Tours office for details.

Discovering a Surfing Paradise: Siargao

Who would have thought that a small chocolate bar could put a tiny Philippine island on the map of the world?

What led American adventurer Mike Boyam to the shores of Siargao more than two decades ago? Was it destiny, his stumbling upon the surfing paradise while on a 40-day fast? Sadly, exceeding the days of bearable hunger, he died here. If only he had discovered the Cloud 9 chocolate bar in the local sari-sari store like American photographer John S. Callahan and fellow surfers Evan Slater and Taylor Knox had, in 1992… sustaining them while they surfed the great waves in Catangnan…maybe then, he would have survived.

There is one thing I am certain of though: Callahan did a great job naming the now famous surfing haven. Cloud Nine, named after the chewy Filipino chocolate bar to which he credits his survival in Siargao Island – a jungle then, with some of the most awesome waves the world has ever known.

The photos and article Callahan published in the US Surfer's Magazine in 1994 did much to spread the word about their great "discovery" – and perhaps to the dismay of other explorers who had discovered it too but had decided to keep the island for themselves by not saying a word. But really, beautiful moments are meant to be shared (and who can keep a secret for too long?) Since then, professional surfers have come from all over the world with photographers in tow, making Cloud Nine more famous abroad than any other place in the Philippines.

I took the same spirit of adventure evident in Callahan and his companions, when I decided to check out the island of Siargao for myself. I packed the same spirit of discovery and adventure into my backpack as we began our journey to Siargao.

It was one great adventure. And the best travel advice I can give you for your trip to Siargao is this: Keep an open mind.

The Journey
From out the window of the plane, I was blessed with a bird's eye view of the greenest mountains and the bluest ocean surrounding Mindanao. Siargao is a small island off Mindanao’s north-eastern tip, a tropical hideaway peppered with coconut trees. Getting there entails a 4-hour boat ride which leaves just before noon from Surigao province (yes, these are similar names! It’s SURIGAO province and SIARGAO Island). The water journey to Siargao Island and back is scenic; from the ferry, I relaxed and took in the vista, littered with little islands and lush mangroves. I was quite amused to watch waves swirling about like a whirlpool… until I found out that island's Pacific Ocean-facing reefs are situated on the edge of the Philippine Trench, where the water is deep -- around 10,000 meters deep! That’s Mt. Everest turned upside down, plus another 3,000 feet!

We arrived at the Port of Dapa in the island of Siargao. We came in the late afternoon and took a 20-minute tricycle ride into the municipality of General Luna which culminated into a whole day excursion to see the famous “Cloud Nine”. As the travel had taken its toll on us, my companions and I called it a day upon arrival. We took our rest at Patrick's on the Beach, a resort three kilometers away from the surfing area (Cloud Nine), in the small town of Catangnan.

The Discovery
Nature is wondrous… and when it comes to weather, you’ve got to love her moods! Early morning found us at the wooden jetty at Cloud Nine to look for the waves and the surfers -- but we found none. Waves are dependent upon the weather and the tides. How we wished we had done a simple search on the internet to see when the waves would be rolling in (visit www.patrickonthebeach.com for a surfing forecast on Cloud 9). Luckily we bumped into Gerry Degan, the friendly Australian who owns Sagana Resort, one of the better known resorts in the Cloud Nine area. Gerry is also the event coordinator for the International Surfing Competition held every September and now in its 14th year. Like many others, having discovered the island and fallen in love with the place, he and his wife Susan and baby Lily stay in Siargao for most of the year, returning to Sydney during Australian summer.

Gerry talked excitedly about the surfing competition despite a hang-over from all the merriment the night before. He advised us to come back in the afternoon, when all the surfers would be back for high tide. He talked about ‘the perfect barrel’ which Siargao is famous for. I had to find out what that meant.

"When the wave tubes are over you, you have to get inside the curl of the wave and ride through it," Gerry explained. Just like what you see in the movies, we thought. This is what brings international surfers from Australia, Hawaii, the United States, Japan and Europe to what is now known as the surfing capital of the Philippines.

A beautiful surfing day would have you catching world-class waves aptly described by the locals as seawater curling into the outline of a ‘9’, and its tip turning to froth-like clouds… Ahh yes, true to its name! But the famous Cloud Nine turns to "Crowd Nine" in the peak months from August till end of November, and again during the Easter Season from April to May, which is a great time for surfers to explore the rest of the island and find other waves to ride. A short boat ride from Cloud 9 to nearby Rock Island, Stimpy's and you can find other breaks stretching right up to the east coast, to Pilar, Pacifico and Burgos. So there are many options to ensure you catch a good view of the surf while you’re here.

What a Non-Surfer’s Got to Do
Watching surfers from around the world embracing the waves of Siargao is simply a delight to watch. But what's one got to do when the surf’s down?

"You can stay here for a month and we can take you on different tours everyday," says Andreas Mikoleiczik, German owner of Patrick's on the Beach resort along with his Filipina wife, Elizabeth. I learned that the charming and rustic island has a lot of gifts to offer the traveler willing to spend quality time. Patrick's, for instance, has recently discovered Yohoho! Islands and Lagoon where couples and friends can enjoy a picnic or have a “pirate's feast” prepared by the resort.

One can also take a refreshing three island tour to Guyam, Dako and Naked islands for swimming, snorkeling, diving and deep-sea fishing.

Guyam is a tiny white island with no inhabitants (a great venue for the cast of the Pirates of the Caribbean). Dako, on the other hand, is an island with about 300 fishing families. It is recommended for snorkeling and beginner surfers. Local surfers act as tour guides and they also give surfing lessons at P500 an hour. This price comes with a guarantee – You’re sure to be able to stand on your surf board after the session or your money back. Wow!

Naked Island, also called Pansukian Island, has a pristine white sandbar that is some 200 meters long and hugged by turquoise clear waters with massive coral reefs. Sohoton Cave, located in Bucas Grande (about 90 minutes from Cloud Nine and in the northern part of Siargao Island), is also a beautiful place to explore, with its hidden treasures, tunnels and lagoons, a jellyfish lake, a rainforest canopy, and probably much more. And in the town of Del Carmen, you can say that you kayaked along the largest mangrove forest reserve in Mindanao.

Because of its deep waters, Siargao Island is also great for deep sea fishing expeditions. The island has an abundance of marine life such as the yellow fin tuna, mahi-mahi, and tanigue.

Surfing the Palate
It's good to know that starving in Siargao is a thing of the past, as the food choices have greatly expanded -- from those memorable chocolate bars, to a variety of international cuisines offered by all the resorts.

"The quality of the food on this island is better than anywhere else in the Philippines," says David Motbey, one of the pioneers in the area and owner of the premier spot, Cloud Nine Resort (Motbey also happened to be surfing with John Callahan and Co when they first discovered the island and christened it Cloud Nine). He has been to other places in the Philippines, and says that nothing compares to the depth of cuisine found here. Biased? Perhaps. But I met the many foreigners who have come to build their homes and resorts in Siargao, and they have inevitably brought their native tastes along.

Frenchman Nicolas Rambeau who built Pansukian Tropical Resort serves French cuisine while the Australians in the island bring their own recipes to the menu. Aussie David swears by his restaurant's Thai-inspired mango curry chicken, chicken and pork schnitzels, and the local kinilaw which is fresh fish smothered in vinegar.

At Patrick's on the Beach, everything is also served fresh. A coconut is picked from its tree upon order of a buko juice. Since the food is prepared only upon ordering, expect 30 to 45 minutes of ‘anticipation time’. Their five-finger shell fish adobo rice, homemade yoghurt and Yohoho! mango rum (with real mango bits!) is a refreshing welcome. Interestingly, some of the proceeds from the Yohoho! rum, P325 per bottle, go to providing five nutritious meals to poor families, and P50 of each bottle goes to the care of the environment. I went home with a bottle!

Fill your craving and find freshly caught fish at the wet market, especially tuna. Buy fresh seafood and have them cooked in the small eateries near the wet market. You may also ask your resort to steam the fish wrapped in banana leaves or to cook them with dill herb, which grows like grass in town. "Pasayan," a local term for shrimp, is also abundant in Siargao and so good when freshly cooked.

Leaving Siargao Island without having some "Surfer's Bread" would be a disappointment. Try getting some at the local bakery, or visit Shat's Guest House along General Luna where it’s served.

So now, having experienced this surfing paradise for myself, albeit via a bumpy ride on the habal-habal (motorbike), I have one thing to say: wear a bum-pillow! Seriously though, I am all the richer for it. How can we call it a great adventure if we do not make serendipitous discoveries along the way? Like the early surfers who ventured into the unknown, I learned that it only takes a leap, or in this case, a surf of faith, to feel the thrill of being there!

Travel Notes
Island tours can be arranged through individual resorts, or call Jing Gurrobat (0910-2596493) for a half-day tour of Guyam, Dako, and Pansukian. Dodong Digman (0921-3246415) can also take you on an adventure to Sohoton Cave.

Where to Stay
General Luna, the small town that houses Cloud Nine, is a rural countryside where friendly locals reside. Most resorts are found along the surfing area while some are located some 3 kilometers away. Most give a 10% discount off their regular rates in the lean months and up to 15% if you stay for a week or more.

Budget travelers can opt for middle-priced accommodations ranging from PhP500 per night (budget rooms), to P3,500 per night (superior rooms). Most resorts offer rustic, basic beach houses. Some cottages are made of bamboo and nipa. Some rooms are concrete with basic bed and ceiling fan. Superior rooms have air conditioning but can be unnecessary when people are out catching the waves or exploring the island most of the time. The resorts have good bathrooms with running water, a big improvement from the early days when the island had no potable water and electricity. Now, some resorts have internet connection, either provided for free to guests, or for a fee.

Cherrie Nicole Resort in General Luna has an indoor swimming pool for those who prefer this to swimming along the rocky shores of Cloud Nine.

For those who want luxury accommodation, Pansukian Tropical Resort is an option. This resort has 5 villas and 3 garden cottages overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

How to get there
Some domestic airlines have flights to Surigao Del Norte from Manila. It takes 20 minutes to get to the Eva Macapagal Passenger Terminal from the Surigao airport. There are only two boats, Montenegro Lines and Angel, both of which travel daily to Siargao Island. The ride costs P200 and lasts 3 to 4 hours. Upon arrival in Siargao Island at the port of Dapa, one can take the tricycle that will seat 7 people max for a 20-minute journey. The road is well-paved and will take you to the municipality of General Luna – this is where the Cloud Nine resorts are located.

To get around General Luna, hitch a habal-habal (motor bike) for P10 per person and P20 if you’re headed to as far as Pansukian (roughly 7 kms away from Cloud Nine). A hired van will cost P3,500 per day. You can also rent a tricycle for P250 for half a day and P500 for the whole day. Tricycles are not readily available outside the resorts except those located in the Cloud Nine surfing area. It will be best to contract a tricycle or habal-habal upon arrival for a bigger group.

Getting back to Surigao City from Siargao is no mean feat especially when you've grown accustomed to the relaxing ‘island time’ . Please note that the boat to Surigao leaves early at 5:45 am and another one at 6:30 am. Don’t be late or you’ll have to wait another day.

Travel Tips:

1. Bring extra cash. As of writing, there are no automated teller machines (ATM) in Siargao. This also means you must consider changing your currency to Philippine Pesos before you get to the island. There is a Western Union in the town of Dapa in Siargao where you can send and receive wire money transfers. You will receive your money in Peso currency. Major banks and ATMs are found in Surigao City – but this is a 4-hour boat ride away. Some of the resorts accept credit cards but most prefer to be paid in cash. Patrick's on the Beach provides cash advances on all major credit cards and can change most currencies including US Traveler checks.

2. Buy your boat ticket in advance. The boat going back to Surigao from Siargao Island leaves very early at 5:45 and 6:30 in the morning. It would be best to buy your ticket at the Dapa port the day before you leave so as to avoid the inconvenience of having no seats and standing up throughout the 4-hour journey. This is inevitable during the peak season when there are plenty of travelers coming and going. You can buy your ferry ticket for the next day's trip (P200 one-way) after the current boat leaves. Allow ample time to get to the port area; leave your resort 30 minutes in advance so you can make it there in time – more if you have not got a ticket in hand or if it’s peak season when there will be many more queuing up for ferry tickets.

3. Bring a First Aid Kit. Since it is a tropical hideaway and the nearest hospital is in Surigao city, do take with you a first aid kit to address possible scrapes and injuries while surfing or island hopping. Also bring anti-nausea medicines to help you during the boat ride going to the island. It would also be advisable to bring and apply a mosquito repellant to protect you from the itchy bite and for a relaxing sleep through the night. Include sunblock and moisturising lotion (staples for visiting any tropical hideaway). For emergencies, there is a health care center that offers first aid at the Boulevard in General Luna.

4. Bring a Flashlight. A flashlight and alkaline batteries will come in handy as the island experiences occasional power failures.

5. Stock up on Load. Pre-paid mobile subscribers are advised to bring enough cell phone credit to the island as it can get difficult to get load around -- especially during peak months when many people have the same need.

Closer to the Sky

I suppose it was partly because of boredom that I found myself wanting to try out parasailing. I’ve been to Boracay more than a few times and always, I’d fall into the same routine: lounge by the beach, have a few shakes at Jonah’s, get a massage, take advantage of happy hour and party all night. I was never the type to try out all those water sports: banana boats, Flying Fish, jetskis, etc. From my spot on the front beach, a cool banana-papaya shake in one hand and a stick of hotdog in the other, I’d gaze out to the horizon and see those colorful parasails hovering in the distance and never imagined I’d be on one myself.

But boredom really does make you do crazy things.

It was a couple of years back when I was in that hotbed of hedonism (yet again) with a couple of friends. Boracay has it all: the best beach in the world, countless food choices that can satiate every kind of appetite, and a kickin’ party scene. On that particular trip though, the objective was just to kick back and relax. We didn’t have a set itinerary and there weren’t any concrete plans to do anything specific. My friends and I simply decided to let the island winds take us wherever it wanted to go. I had no idea how literal that statement was going to be.

If you’ve ever been to Boracay, you’d know about those “salesmen” that line the beach offering various seaside activities to passing tourists and passersby. “Mam banana boat po kayo?” “Sir island-hopping?” “Mam snorkeling?” If you were like us who just wanted to be left alone, the correct thing to do, of course, is to smile politely and just walk away. But for some reason, I got to talking with one particular “salesman,” who wanted us to try parasailing. Like I said, we hadn’t planned on doing anything else beyond working on our tans while drinking fruit shakes and/or beer by the beach, but chalk it up to the whims of fate, and before I knew it, we had made arrangements with the guy to take us out on this unique adventure.

We had questions for him, of course: was it safe? How long would we be up on air? Has anybody ever fallen off to his or her death? And most importantly, how much? He answered them all: yes, it was perfectly safe. We’d be strapped in to a harness that was securely attached to the parasail. We’d be up there flying for approximately 15 minutes. And no, they’ve never known anybody to fall off while they were airborne. As for the price, we were initially quoted P2,000 each for the 15-minute ride, but a friend of mine was a master at haggling, and she managed to bring the price down to P1,500 each. It was now or never.

We boarded a small, motorized banca that then took us to a much bigger, much faster speedboat. It was going to be my friend and I who’d be going up in tandem, while another friend would stay on the boat and take pictures. We zoomed off about a kilometer out to sea, presumably so we wouldn’t get in the way of all those vacationers swimming by the water’s edge and interrupt all those other people in their banana boats and Flying Fishes.

And then it was time. After sitting on the edge of the speedboat and getting strapped on, the attendants slowly let the line loose. The wind caught the parasail and gave it a mighty tug that suddenly yanked us out of the boat. I let out an involuntary gasp. The boat attendant fed the line and I felt us going up, higher and higher. It was at that point, I think, that the enormity of what we were doing dawned on me: we were tied to a gigantic modified parachute and launched 100 feet into the air, with what seemed like flimsy straps attached to steel hooks the only things keeping us from hurtling down into the blue water below. I was terrified. I felt my breath catch in my throat and saw my knuckles turn nearly white, hanging on for dear life at the thin strip of metal overhead. My hands got all cold and clammy, too, and you can bet the wind had nothing to do with it. I turned over to my friend and he was speechless; he was obviously petrified too.

I closed my eyes for a minute and tried to calm down. I remembered the words of the guy who led us here in the first place: parasailing was perfectly safe and nobody ever fell off into the sea (as far as he knew anyway). When I opened my peepers again, I started to relax. I looked around and started to take in the sights: the front beach way out in the distance, the sun starting its descent in the horizon, bancas near the shoreline that looked like tiny toy boats. I looked over at my friend and he was beginning to loosen up, too. It was surprisingly quiet and peaceful up there; the wind, which I thought would be howling, was gentle and soothing. I still couldn’t let go of the piece of metal over our heads, but I started to really enjoy the experience. The P1,500 was so worth it, I thought to myself while we were gliding over the waters.

Suddenly, and all too soon, the 15 minutes were up and we slowly started to go down. Some people get their kicks out of motor racing, bungee jumping or skydiving, and these are all pursuits that I have yet to experience. But personally I’m glad I got to scratch parasailing off my list. I’d do it again in a heartbeat, and next time, my eyes are gonna be wide open the whole way through.

Travel Notes
Parasailing is fast becoming one of the more popular seaside attractions in many of the major beaches around the country. The next time you’re in Boracay, it won’t be too hard to find operators who offer parasailing services. It’s a good idea to inquire with your hotel front desk for reputable boat operators so you don’t get scammed. You can also try negotiating with the numerous beachside “salesmen” who try to talk you into various watersports activities. If you don’t feel comfortable with the person you’re talking to, it’s perfectly okay to refuse and simply walk away.

Expect to shell out between P1800 to P2500 for your 15 minutes up in the air. If you’re lucky though and a champion haggler, some operators may charge less, especially during the off-peak season. For further inquiries, and a list of reputable watersports operators, call the Department of Tourism Office at +63 36 2883669 or the Boracay Tourist Information Center at +63 36 2883704.

If you are planning on vacationing in other islands apart from Boracay, ask your resort if they can arrange a parasailing adventure for you. Cebu, Bohol, Palawan and Negros are also great parasailing destinations.

Luxury Camping

Paddling over calm, clear blue water surrounded by towering limestone cliffs and pristine white-sand beaches, I knew my guests felt as I did; El Nido is heaven on earth. With its amazing beauty and incredibly high terrestrial and marine biodiversity this remarkable area located at the northern tip of Palawan, the Philippine Islands’ ‘Last Frontier’, is a nature enthusiast’s paradise. And what better way to become more intimately familiar with the majestic islands, fantastic reefs, and diverse habitats than to kayak, snorkel and luxury camp amongst them?
After spending our first of five adventure-filled days paddling, snorkeling, and beach-walking, my guests were certainly ready for a delicious dinner and a pleasant evening under the stars. Although I just spent many hours interpreting the natural wonders of Bacuit Bay, I purposely did not reveal too much about the scenery and location of the campsite. From previous experience, I knew my words could not possibly do it justice.

Our campsite is located on a beach that is moderately enclosed by immense limestone cliffs giving a very personal feel and a truly intimate camping experience. As we paddled into a small, quiet bay we get our first views of the campsite. My kayak partner immediately raises her camera and I heard several people utter words like ‘unbelievable’, and ‘beyond imagination’. Rather than ask what they thought about their home for the next few days, I let the scenery and their excitement sink in and sit with them like fog on a windless day. As we paddled blissfully towards shore, I noticed that everyone was making slower and slower progress the closer we got. I suspect that, like me, they wanted this moment to last as long as possible. Upon landing on the beach, we were greeted with warm towels and fresh smoothies. After giving them another few minutes to soak it all in I said “Okay folks, how about a quick orientation of the campsite?”

“We have a shower tent with warm and cool water, a comfort tent that is equipped with a full size toilet with an advanced outdoor waste management system that safely converts waste into an environmentally friendly, 100% biodegradable package, a dining tent with full service, sit-down meals, a generator for battery charging and margaritas, and personal tents complete with queen-size mattresses, sheets, full-size pillows, rechargeable fans, nightlights, skylights for stargazing, and enough headroom for most people to stand”. It was a mouthful to say, but the looks of awe upon the guests conveyed that I succeeded in providing a camp that went well beyond their expectations. “Wait until we sit for dinner,” I boasted.

Our meals are served in a large, roofed, mesh-screened tent. All of our serving-wares are made of local products and every attention to detail is accounted for; even down to the napkin holders and placemats. To complement the presentation, we have a full-time professional chef who prepares four-course local and international dinner menus consisting of freshly made soups, salads, appetizers, and main gourmet dishes. Tonight, we had an assortment of locally caught seafood including fish, lobster, shrimp, and crab served with local wine from the Mountain Province in northern Luzon. After dinner and a round of applause for the chef, I offered a choice to those who wanted to do just a bit more before turning in; a starlight paddle around the area or a night snorkel. To me, just having these options is one of the benefits of camping on the beaches here in El Nido. Having easy access to the water and reefs gives people a chance to participate in activities that are rarely offered by other tour operators. For my guests, it was an easy choice. Thus far, this group expressed a great desire to spend as much time snorkeling among the healthy and vibrant reefs as possible. Night snorkeling it was. The attraction to snorkeling at night is that many of the usually secretive critters come out and we spotted many beautiful and weird organisms like scorpion fish, sea urchins, blue-spotted stingrays, and even some corals that ‘opened-up’ to take advantage of the plankton-rich waters.

I gathered everyone together and asked them to turn off their flashlights. I then shook my hand vigorously underwater and like fireworks there was an eruption of tiny flashes of light; bioluminescence! I told my guests that many types of plankton (in this case, probably single-cell algae called dinoflagellates) possess bioluminescence and it is a chemical reaction that occurs in response to the sudden agitation of water. Everybody commenced to make underwater waves and we were instantly surrounded by brilliant flashes of light. It looked like a beautiful starry night underwater. I then asked everyone to float on their backs and look up at the millions of stars shining down on a moonless evening. Again, I sensed that everyone was feeling the same thing: if ever a place could be magical, this is it. Swimming back to our comfortable campsite, we were greeted again with warm towels and refreshments. Could anything get better than this?

It’s been a week since the trip concluded and I am preparing a photo album from pictures guests selected as their favorites. As I sift through the photos, I reflect back on what a privilege it was to introduce people to the magic of El Nido, both above and below the water. Whatever their impression was of the Philippines previous to our tour, I am sure it has evolved into one of admiration, beauty, and respect for the area, the nature, and the people. Although I never did ask anyone what they were thinking about on that first day upon gazing at our campsite, I notice that among all of the photos from each guest, the same one was included: their first view of our campsite. I knew immediately that our luxury camping was the perfect complement to the beauty of this magical place.

Travel Notes:
The expeditions uniquely integrate the kayaking experience with snorkeling, nature walks, beach-combing, bird-watching and sight-seeing with lectures / round table discussions on selected topics in marine biology, conservation, geology, biodiversity, and biogeography which all combine to produce an interpretive, interactive, exciting and comfortable tour. The ultimate experience for the outdoor enthusiast is that the days are linked together with magnificent safari-style campsites where they sleep peacefully under a sky full of stars with the sounds of water gently lapping at the shore and awaken to tranquil mornings with a pastel-colored sky and watch dozens of species of birds begin their day.

S.E. Asia Kayak Tours
Block 6 Lot 10 Gumamela Street,
Garden City 3, Sucat, Paranaque
(63 2) 825 5057
(63 905) 426 6043

E-Mail: lee@asiakayaktours.com
www.asiakayaktours.com

Lee Goldman is a marine biologist and is the founder of the Asia Kayak Tours.

Luxury Camping

Taking the Silent Path

The idling motor woke me up from my slumber. I went outside my cabin room, having taken the WG&A SuperFerry from Manila to Coron Town, in Busuanga, Palawan, and was rewarded with a sight that ranks up there with 'best wake ups' in my book. The dregs of Manila Piers had been replaced with something exotic, far-off and beckoning. Islands of all different descript surrounded us, and stacked up to the horizon line. The first light of day was just reaching out over the impossibly beautiful spires of Coron Island, not far in the distance. The perfect weekend trip, getting on the ferry on a Friday afternoon, sleeping in a floating cabin, and waking up at the beginning of the day in a place that just begs to be explored by boat and paddle. It doesn't take much imagination to deduce that the Philippines is one of the prime sea kayaking destinations in the world. Warm weather, sea-faring culture, the full spectrum of God's creative topography...it's all here.

In particular, the trip to Coron Town is probably the most rewarding kayakers escape one can make in this country, as far as what one gets to see in a short amount of time. Getting of our giant floating WG&A bed and heading over to Tribal Adventures small warehouse, just a tricycle ride away from where the SuperFerry lets you off, we were outfitted with life jackets, paddles and sea kayaks. Tribal Adventures offers several different trips tailor made to ones time and budget, and we had a weekend, so I knew I wanted to see Coron Island (not to be confused with Coron Town, on Busuanga Island), with its cliffs towering hundreds of feet out of the ocean. We took our kayaks on a banca going straight to the Island, and, with our guide, explored the nooks and crannies of this magnificent chunk of real estate. The limestone cliff faces are eroded at the bottom by millennia of ocean motion, and at low tide, one can paddle in the nooks, with the strange feeling that the entire weight of the mountain is over your head. Paddling into small lagoons, indigenous lilies and other flora had found impossibly tenacious hold in the pock-marked rock faces, and made me stop to consider what forms life had taken here, to survive. High above, bamboo poles jammed into the crags were the primitive scaffolding which bird nest hunters use in season to scale the rock faces. At one point, we paddled over to the trail head for Barracuda Lake, and tied up our kayaks. Hiking up the steep trail over the saddle, we descended into the Lake, an enclosed brackish body of water connected to the sea by the porous underwater caves. The namesake of the lake is a oft-spotted giant barracuda that swims by, harmless and curious, when swimmers take to the inviting turquoise waters of its abode.

Tribal Adventures had arranged the appropriate permits for camping on the land of the local Tagbanua tribe, who were the first recipients of Ancestral Domain land titleship, and who have pretty specific rules for where one can visit. Coron Island is largely under this Domain, and some of the interior lakes are off-limits to outsiders, for tribal sanctity issues. We camped on a little carved out beach, with a simple camp fire, tents and provisions, suppled by our outfitters. Tribal Adventures trips run the gamut from week long photojournalism expeditions to weekend paddle excursions with comfortable accommodation options at night. Transportation options also vary, with either the SuperFerry or air flights an option for visitors. Our equipment was about as good as you'll find in the Philippines, with fiberglass, 2 person sit-in kayaks, with rudders that made navigation a breeze.

It is said that Alex Garland, despite setting his novel 'The Beach' in Thailand, was inspired by the islands of the Bacuit and the Calamian archipelagos, of which Coron is part of. Certainly, a little exploration with the right guide can bring you to places heavily reminiscent of the movie, and some of the lagoons have the feel of a place that has not changed since it's creation. With over 220 islands to explore in the Calamian alone, true explorers will quickly feel overwhelmed, and a weekend will certainly feel like not enough.

The next day I had requested to see Sangat Island, not having seen that King Kong Island-like chunk of rock in several years. The proprietor of Sangat Resort, Andy, is the kind of resort owner that can define your vacation, and I never tired of the surprised looks on Manilenos faces when the Briton broke out in Tagbanua dialect. Coron, while being the definitive kayaking destination, is actually far better known for its diving attractions, with several dozen WW2-era Japanese wrecks slumbering on the ocean floor after the 1944 surprise attacks by the US Navy on camouflaged Japanese warships in Coron Bay. Many of the wrecks are in shallow water, and don't require advanced experience. An ideal trip samples from both wreck diving and kayaking, but local knowledge is imperative for the best itinerary. Most dive shops either have kayaking equipment of their own to rent, or can point you in the right direction, depending on your interests. Kayaking around Sangat Island has its own pleasures, and it was here that my mom became a convert to sea kayaking, as we slipped off our kayaks with our dive masks, and snorkeled the thriving shallow waters that abound in the area.

How to Get There and Get Geared Up
Asian Spirit makes the trip from Manila to Busuanga Island by air, as does WG&A by sea. Tribal Adventures Tours (0917 819 3049 and 0920 558 7188, web: www.tribaladventures.com) keeps their equipment in their small facility in Coron town, and can arrange guided tours or equipment rental, with fiberglass or plastic sit-in kayaks with rudders, and other camping gear available.

Where to Stay
Busuanga is abounding with places to stay, from Club Paradise (www.clubparadisepalawan.com) on the north shore of the Island, with its 'got the island to myself' kind of feel, to 'bio-resort' Sangat Island (www.sangat.com.ph), a bit more closer to the Japanese wrecks in Coron Bay (one wreck fairly close to Sangat can actually be snorkeled!) For those wanting something a bit more centrally located in Coron Town, there are several resorts and hotels that offer rooms for all price ranges.

Taking the Silent Path

Not for the Faint Spirit

Composed of more than 7,100 islands, the Philippine archipelago is a renowned tropical paradise. The climate is perfect for local and foreign tourists who love the sun, the beach and the sand. At every turn, relaxation can be spelled with excellent pampering like food and drinks, spas, clubs, entertainment or through various water activities such as scuba diving, snorkeling, parasailing, surfing and other water sports. It is these things that emphasize that whether high tide or low tide, the Philippines is undoubtedly one of the places in Southeast Asia where island hopping is a must.

There are several travel agencies that offer unique island hopping experiences, most of them through a combination of sight-seeing and dive explorations. One of the more popular ones begin at Cebu. You can always choose to create your own island hopping trail depending on your interests and allotted time for your travel. This trail takes you from Manila-Boracay-Cebu-Dumaguete-Bohol-Manila and if time allows, Corregidor-Manila. By island hopping, we mean spending your vacation on more than one island and not losing any time transferring from one destination to the next. One of the travel agencies you can book with for the Visayan destinations is Sea Explorers. They offer the advantage of diving while transferring between resorts. Whenever it is possible and makes sense, they transfer groups of two or more persons with their own large outrigger dive boats from one Sea Explorers dive center to the next. This gives you the big advantage of diving on the excellent sites as you pass and travel to your next resort and allows you to continue to enjoy the great Sea Explorers service during your whole vacation. You can book their service from Cebu City as the first leg of this island hopping trip starts in Manila and ends in Boracay. At around 10 am, catch a bus at the Central Bus Terminal Station at the back of Alimall in Cubao that says Caticlan. This will take you to Batangas, on board a sea vessel and then a land trip and you will be in Caticlan ferry terminal in time for a trip across to the world famous Boracay Island. Here, you can stay for a night or two. Just make sure you have booked a flight to bring you to Cebu.

Known for its beautiful coastlines, limestone plateaus and coastal plains, Cebu is one of the most popular tropical destinations in the world. There are many things to do here and one that can be worth looking into is the “Suroy-Suroy Sugbu” trails that the provincial government organizes. While this will require that you be in Cebu just in time for one of the caravans that bring busloads of tourists to well-kept, off-beaten and some probably never heard areas of historical, cultural, gastronomical and natural attractions, you can always ask for assistance in mapping out your own trail. These caravans are spread throughout the 44 municipalities and seven cities of the province with different trails. The newest addition is the Urban Adventure package that takes guests to the more burgeoning cities of Mandaue, Lapu-Lapu, and Cordova with short trips to islands not far from the mainland. There is the Enchanting Camotes Tour that brings visitors to this very cluster of islands off the east coast of Cebu, which boasts of Lake Danao—the biggest and only natural lake in the province now designated as a bird sanctuary. The Southern Heritage Trail for example covers more than 20 towns – Minglanilla, Naga, San Fernando, Sibonga, Argao, Dalaguete, Alcoy and Boljoon, Oslob, Santander, Samboan, Ginatilan, Alegria, Badian, Moalboal, Alcantara, Dumanjug, Barili, Carcar and Talisay – includes the Kawasan Falls in Badian; the world-class beach-dive site of Moalboal; and the centuries-old, stone-built Patrocinio de Maria church of Boljoon, which has been declared a National Cultural Treasure. The Northern Escapade, on the other hand, is a 15-town tour passes through Consolacion, Compostela, Danao, Carmen, Sogod, Daanbantayan, Medellin, San Remigio, Madridejos, Borbon, Catmon, Liloan and Bantayan, which has become a favorite for sun-sand-sea loving guests.

If you want to keep things simple, an option will be to explore the urban areas first. When you’ve had your fair share of the city, head out to Moalboal by taxi or bus which will take approximately 3 hours. In Moalboal, you can bathe under the beautiful Kawasan Fall, see caves, visit the Orchid Farm in Moalboal, discover canoeing in a creek, biking through trails or you can also enjoy the nightlife. For divers going to the dive sites are a must. One is to transfer to Pescador, which is about fifteen minutes by boat. Divers will be awed by the spectacular wall with big fish schools, sometimes sharks and barracudas. Beautiful coral gardens with a large variety of coral fishes and very often giant frogfishes. More experienced divers will love a special place called Cathedral which is an exciting vertical tunnel to dive through starting from 15 meters down to 35 meters.

Then off you go to Dumaguete. From Cebu, the fast ferry will bring you to Dumaguete in about 3 1/2 hours. Dumaguete is dubbed as "the city of gentle people" and is the home to Silliman University which houses the Philippines top Marine Biology institute. Thus for divers, diving around Dauin is a must. Whale and dolphin watching in Bais is also an experience. It is easy to get to and easy to find your way around Dumaguete. If you happen to be here on a Wednesday, head out to the market in Malatapay where local inhabitants barter and trade large assortments of fish, fruits, vegetables and animals. Ask about the 45-minute hike through a Jurassic jungle brings you to 120-ft Casaroro waterfalls. You can also visit the Twin lakes of Balinsasayo and Danao. One of the things not known to many is that there actually is a small golf course 30 minutes away in Dumaguete and a professional course with spectacular views about an hour away.

The last of the Visayan leg will have you diving while transferring to Alona Beach in Balicasag in Bohol. From Dumaguete, take the Ocean Jet that leaves 7:30 am and 2:20 pm to Tagbilaran (fare is P650 tourist class and P850 for the business class). From there it’s another 30 minutes by taxi or tricycle, to Alona Beach in Panglao. A 40-minute boat ridegets you to Balicasag island which is very well known to divers throughout the Philippines. A diver's heaven— a marine sanctuary with a wall to 40 meters, Black Forest with giant black corals—with schooling jack fish and barracudas, turtles, sponges, anemones, soft and hard corals make this site a must see, must dive. Sightseeing in Panglao include the unique Chocolate Hills, all 1268 of them, the search for the elusive, nocturnal, and a mere only 3 inches tall Tarsier monkey in Bohol's lush natural forests. One can also opt to take a leisurely cruise to the end of the Loboc River and swim under the waterfalls.

The fastest and most convenient way of going back to Manila is by flying. Check out local carriers for cheap flights.
If you have time, hop to another island called Corregidor. Corregidor comes from the Spanish 'corregir', or 'to correct', since the island was a checkpoint for vessels entering Manila Bay during the Spanish and American occupations. Corregidor became the headquarters of the Allied Forces and also the seat of the Philippine Commonwealth government. It was from Corregidor that Philippine Pres. Manuel Quezon and MacArthur left for Australia in February leaving behind Lt. Gen. Jonathan M. Wainwright in command. From Manila, one of if not the most popular way of getting to Corregidor island is through Sun Cruises. The boat leaves Manila at 8 a.m. and will bring you to an island that symbolizes the courage of Filipino and American soldiers during World War II.

Travel Notes:
For island tour services, visit the Sea Explorers website at www.sea-explorers.com.

A trip to Corregidor via Sun Cruises costs Php1,999 per person for a guided day tour with buffet lunch. There is also an option to stay a night on the island for an additional cost. For inquiries or more information, call (63 2) 527 5555 local 4511 to 12, e-mail corregidortours@suncruises.com.ph or visit their website at www.corregidorphilippines.com.

If you are into diving and would want a full menu of where to go for specific species such as whale sharks, manta rays and dolphins, contact Fun Dive Asia through (63 918) 925 2996.

Not for the Faint Spirit

Southbound Sunday

A good daytrip for me starts at home. There’s the waking-up-before-sunrise variety and there’s the leisurely roll out of bed and take-your-time-with-a-cup-of-coffee-kind. This lazy southern sojourn is of the latter variety. It starts at the end of the South Luzon Tollway, after you’ve already gassed-up and bought a bag of chips and are halfway thru your road-trip playlist. Follow the SLEX till you see the exit to Lucena to the right and follow the national highway for a Sunday-drive to remember. Every trip has a beginning, middle, and an end. 3-points in a line, 3 stops on one road. Here are three stops that make a great daytrip down south.

Kusina Salud
The perfect first stop to fuel up for the rest of the day. Kusina Salud is just off the Maharlika Highway, right at the border of San Pablo (there’s a large sign along the highway so you wont miss it). What began as a weekend getaway for the Tesoro family has turned into one of the best gustatory pit stops in the south. Launched in 2004, the structure itself is a direct extension of the Tesoro ancestral home. Patis has used an eclectic combination of local materials and recycled architectural elements for a whimsical shabby-chic-meets-filipiniana effect.

The kitchen is run by her son-in-law Chef Poblador, who dishes out fusion versions of Pinoy classics like adobo, kare-kare, binagoongan and lumpiang ubod. Chef Poblador’s background is 10 years of French cookery and he has married this with Pinoy dishes that we all grew up on. Everything on the menu is indeed a classic but all have an unusual fusion twist that make it uniquely different from the usual and a perfect match for the quirky ambiance that Patis and company have created. If you’re passing thru on a weekend the Sunday lunch buffet is definitely a must. It can get busy so a reservation is a good idea.

You’ll pass this road on the way home too, so if you haven’t had enough, a late merienda ala Salud isn’t such a bad proposition.

Villa Escudero Plantations and Resort
If you are a Manileno, chances are you will already have a hazy childhood memory of this Quezon institution from grade-school fieldtrips. Villa Escudero looks a lot different nowadays, and has a lot to offer those in need of a relaxing place to stop. You’ll find Villa Escudero along the Main Highway past the town of Alaminos. The main landmark for the entrance is the Quezon Province Boundary Arch. The entrance itself is immediately to the left of the arch.

Villa Escudero is a working coconut plantation founded by the Escudero family in 1872 and was opened to the public in 1980. Since then the Plantation has developed into quite a bit more than what we all remember it to be. The classic attractions are still there, like the Escudero Family Museum which houses an eclectic mix of items from religious artifacts and Spanish trade items, dioramas and Filipino cultural shows on the weekends which are held from 2-3 in the afternoon.

But for those who want to skip all that and just kick back, a relaxing dip by the pool might be just the ticket after a big lunch. Or if you choose to make this your first stop, lunch by the Labasin waterfall is also a great option. Meals are served right at the foot of the falls itself with a refreshing rush of water from the falls flowing over your feet.

One can also do a bit of rafting around the lake on native bamboo rafts and if the bug hits you to extend your stay, the newly refurbished accommodations are quite a nice surprise.

Ugu Bigyan
Last stop on the trip is a visit to Ugu Bigyans’s workshop in Tiaong, Quezon. Getting there requires a bit of close attention to some landmarks. One follows the main highway heading towards San Pablo on to Tiaong. The main landmarks to keep an eye open for are the Tiaong Municipio and about 2.4 kilometers from there, the Tiaong Rural Bank on the left side of the road. Take a left right before the bank and follow that road for about 600 meters and turn left at the sign for “Alvarez Village”, Ugu’s tasteful brick residence/workshop is hard to miss.

Ugu has made quite a reputation for himself as a ceramics artist, creating distinct dinnerware and décor as well as limited edition ceramic tiles and floorings that have been used in upscale hotels and posh resorts like El Nido and Amanpulo. That doesn’t mean that it’s all look and don’t touch for everyone else. In fact, it’s hard to visit Ugu’s and not take home some little memento from his charming ceramics workshop. Choose from vases, plates, bowls and mugs that all have the distinct Ugu touch.

People of course primarily come for the chance to browse the displays of beautiful ceramics and stoneware but the workshop grounds can be the objective of one’s visit as well. Quaint huts and pockets of landscaped greenery punctuated with beautiful little koi ponds set to a score of pleasant wind chimes beg you to stay and linger…and linger you will. Which is why Ugu saw fit to serve meals to his visitors. Call ahead of time and a sumptuous meal starting with “pako” (green fern) salad and starring pinoy comfort food like “inihaw na baboy” (grilled pork) and “guinataang langka” (jackfruit cooked in coconut milk) can be had. It’s not hard to lose track of time in such a peaceful creative sanctuary. Ugu also offers pottery demos and workshops, and with such a beautiful setting, your creative juices are sure to be at its finest.

All good trips come to an end and by the time you’ve finally picked out a mug or a vase to take home, the sun will be casting long shadows and the air will bear that pleasant nip that tells you it’s time to be heading back. It’s a long drive home, more than enough time to plan your next adventure on the road.

Travel Notes

Kusina Salud
(63 49) 573 6155 / (63 921) 772 6985
kusinasalud@gmail.com

Villa Escudero Plantation and Resort
San Pablo City
(63 2) 521 0830 / 523 0392
www.villaescudero.com

Ugu Bigyan's Workshop
Alvarez Village, Lusacan, Tiaong, Quezon
(63 42) 545 9144 / (63 917) 560 5708
Rates: P350 per person for one of Ugu's famous meals, minimum of 5 persons. Advanced booking is required for lunch. Pottery workshops or demonstrations may also be arranged.

Southbound Sunday

A New Way to Ride: The Pasig River Ferry

“Revive the river of our dreams”
-A sign painted on the span at Mandaluyong Bridge

In Bangkok, years back, I remember being impressed with how the Thais utilized the Chao Phraya River, which bustled with ferries and boats of all description, and their canals, which are plied by motorized boats moving at an impossibly fast clip. Ice cream men sold their frozen treats from speed boats to people in riverside parks, and it made me wonder why there was nothing even close to that on Manila’s Pasig River. Mind you, the Pasig is not near the same in scale as the 400 kilometer long Chao Phraya, but it always seemed like an under utilized resource. The Pasig River is an interesting geographical feature, as it is technically a tidal estuary connecting Manila Bay with Laguna de Bay Lake, and stretches 26 kilometers in its entirety. Along its lengths, it passes through 8 cities and 3 municipalities. It averages a 50 meter width, and a 4 to 6 meter depth. Yes, it was declared biologically dead in the 1990’s, due to pollutants coming from both along the rivers length and on the lake, but things are looking up, and organizations such as the Pasig River Rehabilitation Program (http://www.prrc.com.ph), are working hard to breathe life back into the river.

Another sign that the Pasig is being rehabilitated into functional use is the establishment of the Pasig River Ferry, with its fleet of 6 comfortable twin-hulled, double-engined passenger boats that ply the river about ten times a day over 24 of its 26 kilometers, with 14 stops total. The inauguration of the ferry route early last year is a visible sign that the city of Manila is getting itself together, and is becoming a more traveler-friendly city. With 3 light rail systems up and running well, more on the way, and now the Ferry, Manila is getting criss-crossed with convenient options for seeing the city. The ferry is a perfect way to get around, for both commuters and tourists alike, and its route stretches along a cross-section of the city that shows all walks of it’s life, in rawest form-from gorgeous to ghastly.

After hearing about the Ferry in enthusiastic stories from photographer John Chua, I took a trip from Guadalupe to Jones Bridge, turning a boring errand at the nearby Bureau of Immigration office into a sightseeing jaunt through Manila. Not only was it about the same length of time (about an hour), it was also a third the price of a taxi (45 Pesos, cheaper for students) and about a hundred times more interesting. With its spacious seating (boats can accommodate up to 150 people nicely), air conditioned compartments and on-board movies, it was at least twice as comfortable, as well. Stations are remarkably efficient, shiny and well-serviced, with comfortable waiting areas. You see a wide variety of things on the river, from kids swimming out to mid-river buoys, basketball games in unnamed baranggays, esteros or small tributaries, once used for banca traffic in the days of old, periodically joining the Pasig’s mainflow, and ship crews on watercraft of various descriptions, at work or relaxing between trips from Manila to whatever foreign port they just arrived from.

Passengers swing by dozens of places you don’t see from the road, and avid travelers will note a multitude of sites they will surely want to return to. Structures spotted from the river span show architectural styles that tell the story of Manila’s colonial past, with buildings exhibiting Spanish, American and homegrown influences among others. Dozens of new parks, wharfs and other projects show the vigor possessed by river rehabilitators, who are fixing up the Pasig.

The downstream terminus station near the Immigration office is at Plaza Mexico, which celebrates 450 years of the Mexico-Manila Galleon trade, and makes for an easy staging point for those visiting Intramuros, Rizal Museum, Luneta Park, and the National Museum. The Escolta station at the foot of Jones bridge (which is where the Philippine-American war was started, and which, along with the nearby Post Office, is one of the few structures that survived the intense bombing at the Battle of Manila, at end of World War II) is a great place from which to explore Binondo, Divisoria and Recto. A stop at Lawton allows tourists to visit the Arroceros Park, beautifully foliaged on the riverbanks. Passing the Pasig’s only island, the Isla de Convalescencia, with its orphanage, keep an eye out for Malacañang Palace, the official residence of the President of the Philippines. Note the riverfront back door, from which President Joseph Estrada slunk out by motorboat when his front door was blocked by angry protestors demanding his ouster in 2001.

The Ferry passes several universities as it passes by Sta. Mesa, such as the Polytechnic University of the Philippines (PUP) and keep your eye open for riverside horse stables as you pass the Sta. Ana Racetrack. Stops by Makati City Hall and Mandaluyong Bridge make hopping on a breeze for travelers. Pulling into the Guadalupe station by Edsa, the river passes by PowerPlant mall and the Rockwell Commercial Center, and the contrast of towering, shiny skyscrapers and a bustling modern shopping district is a jarring contrast to some of the more, uh…rudimentary structures in the rivers lower reaches. The station at Guadalupe is walking distance from the EDSA MRT Line, connecting nicely for easy, cheap commuting/traveling, and above Guadalupe are 3 more stations in Pasig City, all the way up to the upper terminus at Kalawaan Bridge. Future plans have stations located up the Marikina River, which joins the Pasig upriver from C-5, making the ferry even more functional.

As one passes along the banks, my imagination falls back on photos I’ve seen from the late 1800’s, and I remember reading that early Spanish settlers set up fences to keep out river crocodiles. I think of the evocative images from Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere, with Ibarra sneaking upriver into Laguna de Baia hidden under cogon leaves, and the opening pages of El Filibusterismo, which finds the characters navigating the windy course of the Pasig River, still wild and tree-lined. This river made Manila, but some have forgotten it even exists. As I finish my trip, I notice another sign painted across another one of the 13 bridges that cross the Pasig’s length, and I am reminded that this river, too, has great potential, and there are those that know this. I smile as our ferry pulls into the jetty, as I read to myself the sign: “Resurrecting Pasig River- Alive Again!”

Travel Notes
The Pasig River Ferry fares are from Php 25, 35 and 45 per ticket. Php 20 flat rates are given to students while senior citizens are given 20% discounts.

A New Way to Ride: The Pasig River Ferry

“Revive the river of our dreams”
-A sign painted on the span at Mandaluyong Bridge

In Bangkok, years back, I remember being impressed with how the Thais utilized the Chao Phraya River, which bustled with ferries and boats of all description, and their canals, which are plied by motorized boats moving at an impossibly fast clip. Ice cream men sold their frozen treats from speed boats to people in riverside parks, and it made me wonder why there was nothing even close to that on Manila’s Pasig River. Mind you, the Pasig is not near the same in scale as the 400 kilometer long Chao Phraya, but it always seemed like an under utilized resource. The Pasig River is an interesting geographical feature, as it is technically a tidal estuary connecting Manila Bay with Laguna de Bay Lake, and stretches 26 kilometers in its entirety. Along its lengths, it passes through 8 cities and 3 municipalities. It averages a 50 meter width, and a 4 to 6 meter depth. Yes, it was declared biologically dead in the 1990’s, due to pollutants coming from both along the rivers length and on the lake, but things are looking up, and organizations such as the Pasig River Rehabilitation Program (www.prrc.com.ph), are working hard to breathe life back into the river.

Another sign that the Pasig is being rehabilitated into functional use is the establishment of the Pasig River Ferry, with its fleet of 6 comfortable twin-hulled, double-engined passenger boats that ply the river about ten times a day over 24 of its 26 kilometers, with 14 stops total. The inauguration of the ferry route early last year is a visible sign that the city of Manila is getting itself together, and is becoming a more traveler-friendly city. With 3 light rail systems up and running well, more on the way, and now the Ferry, Manila is getting criss-crossed with convenient options for seeing the city. The ferry is a perfect way to get around, for both commuters and tourists alike, and its route stretches along a cross-section of the city that shows all walks of it’s life, in rawest form-from gorgeous to ghastly.

After hearing about the Ferry in enthusiastic stories from photographer John Chua, I took a trip from Guadalupe to Jones Bridge, turning a boring errand at the nearby Bureau of Immigration office into a sightseeing jaunt through Manila. Not only was it about the same length of time (about an hour), it was also a third the price of a taxi (45 Pesos, cheaper for students) and about a hundred times more interesting. With its spacious seating (boats can accommodate up to 150 people nicely), air conditioned compartments and on-board movies, it was at least twice as comfortable, as well. Stations are remarkably efficient, shiny and well-serviced, with comfortable waiting areas. You see a wide variety of things on the river, from kids swimming out to mid-river buoys, basketball games in unnamed baranggays, esteros or small tributaries, once used for banca traffic in the days of old, periodically joining the Pasig’s mainflow, and ship crews on watercraft of various descriptions, at work or relaxing between trips from Manila to whatever foreign port they just arrived from.

Passengers swing by dozens of places you don’t see from the road, and avid travelers will note a multitude of sites they will surely want to return to. Structures spotted from the river span show architectural styles that tell the story of Manila’s colonial past, with buildings exhibiting Spanish, American and homegrown influences among others. Dozens of new parks, wharfs and other projects show the vigor possessed by river rehabilitators, who are fixing up the Pasig.

The downstream terminus station near the Immigration office is at Plaza Mexico, which celebrates 450 years of the Mexico-Manila Galleon trade, and makes for an easy staging point for those visiting Intramuros, Rizal Museum, Luneta Park, and the National Museum. The Escolta station at the foot of Jones bridge (which is where the Philippine-American war was started, and which, along with the nearby Post Office, is one of the few structures that survived the intense bombing at the Battle of Manila, at end of World War II) is a great place from which to explore Binondo, Divisoria and Recto. A stop at Lawton allows tourists to visit the Arroceros Park, beautifully foliaged on the riverbanks. Passing the Pasig’s only island, the Isla de Convalescencia, with its orphanage, keep an eye out for Malacañang Palace, the official residence of the President of the Philippines. Note the riverfront back door, from which President Joseph Estrada slunk out by motorboat when his front door was blocked by angry protestors demanding his ouster in 2001.

The Ferry passes several universities as it passes by Sta. Mesa, such as the Polytechnic University of the Philippines (PUP) and keep your eye open for riverside horse stables as you pass the Sta. Ana Racetrack. Stops by Makati City Hall and Mandaluyong Bridge make hopping on a breeze for travelers. Pulling into the Guadalupe station by Edsa, the river passes by PowerPlant mall and the Rockwell Commercial Center, and the contrast of towering, shiny skyscrapers and a bustling modern shopping district is a jarring contrast to some of the more, uh…rudimentary structures in the rivers lower reaches. The station at Guadalupe is walking distance from the EDSA MRT Line, connecting nicely for easy, cheap commuting/traveling, and above Guadalupe are 3 more stations in Pasig City, all the way up to the upper terminus at Kalawaan Bridge. Future plans have stations located up the Marikina River, which joins the Pasig upriver from C-5, making the ferry even more functional.

As one passes along the banks, my imagination falls back on photos I’ve seen from the late 1800’s, and I remember reading that early Spanish settlers set up fences to keep out river crocodiles. I think of the evocative images from Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere, with Ibarra sneaking upriver into Laguna de Baia hidden under cogon leaves, and the opening pages of El Filibusterismo, which finds the characters navigating the windy course of the Pasig River, still wild and tree-lined. This river made Manila, but some have forgotten it even exists. As I finish my trip, I notice another sign painted across another one of the 13 bridges that cross the Pasig’s length, and I am reminded that this river, too, has great potential, and there are those that know this. I smile as our ferry pulls into the jetty, as I read to myself the sign: “Resurrecting Pasig River- Alive Again!”

Travel Notes
The Pasig River Ferry fares are from Php 25, 35 and 45 per ticket. Php 20 flat rates are given to students while senior citizens are given 20% discounts.

Museum Hopping in the Metro

A few years ago, I struck up a conversation with someone. He was in his mid-20s, had an American accent, but looked completely Filipino. Turns out, his parents were Filipino, but he had been born and raised in the States. All his life, he’d been actively trying to discover what being Filipino meant – even taking up a couple of classes in college. So when an opportunity for him to spend a few months here on an exchange program came, he grabbed it. I asked him what he’d seen of the city so far, and was horrified to hear that his cousins had told him that there wasn’t really anything to see but MegaMall!

“What about Intramuros?” I asked. “Or the museums?”

All he’d seen so far were the malls.

Unfortunately, Manilenos are largely ignorant of the fact that their city is rich in history, and has a number of really excellent museums. In Intramuros alone, there are 3 museums: Casa Manila, Bahay Tsinoy and the San Agustin Museum. Casa Manila is a faithful replica of the Spanish era bahay na bato. It paints a charming picture of the lifestyle of a well-to-do Filipino of those times. The San Agustin Museum is a record of 300 years of Spanish occupation in religious paintings, santos, and other religious artifacts. And while the Spanish think they “discovered” these islands, the Chinese were actually here centuries ahead of them. Bahay Tsinoy defines the identity of the Chinese-Filipinos in this country. Plan on spending about an hour in each place.

If it’s an over-view of Philippine history that you’re after, just a 5-minute drive away (without traffic) is the National Museum. It is housed in two separate American Occupation Era buildings: the old Senate Building holds the National Art Gallery and the old Finance Building, the main museum. Walk into the art gallery’s Hall of Masters first to see what is probably the most famous painting by a Filipino, Juan Luna’s Spoliarium, an allegorical depiction of Spain’s treatment of her colony. Also in the main gallery are other works by Luna, as well as a good number of Hidalgos. Climb up to the second floor to the Hall of National Artists for the Visual Arts where you’ll find abstract paintings by Legazpi, Ocampo, Joya, portraits by Amorsolo and BenCab, busts by Tolentino, sculptures by Abueva and Navarro. After you’ve looked your fill, cross Finance Road and make your way to the main museum.

Splurge a little and get the P350 Guide to the Museum of the Filipino People from the museum office to the left of the main entrance, then enter the first gallery, a walk-in diorama of the wreck of the San Diego. The San Diego was a Spanish trading ship, which sank in a battle on December 14, 1600 off the shores of Batangas. Three galleries on two floors in the museum are devoted to the large number of artifacts found in the wreck. Also in the museum, is an extensive collection of pre-colonial pottery salvaged from various wrecks -- evidence of trade between the Philippines and its neighbors long before the coming of the Spanish. Another gallery holds evidence of pre-historic civilization in the Philippines. You can very easily spend half a day exploring the National Museum.

From here, another 5 minutes of driving to Roxas Boulevard will bring you to the Museo Pambata, a fun, interactive learning experience for kids. Here, kids can learn about history, science, and the environment among a host of other things. They also have regular story telling sessions, performances, seminars and workshops. You can leave your kids here while you head on over to the Money Museum and the Metropolitan Museum in the Central Bank Complex, also on Roxas Boulevard.

The Money Museum traces the evolution of money in the Philippines – from bartering to the present day money-based economy. Here you can see samples of currency used during different periods of our history. It also has an excellent collection of rare and unusual coins from all over the world.

Also in the Central Bank complex is the Metropolitan Museum. The ground and second floors hold exhibits that change regularly and talks by the artists are often part of the exhibits. The museum also hosts traveling exhibits from other parts of the world so there’s always something new to see here. The only permanent installations are the gold and pottery exhibits in the basement,

Moving to the central business district of Makati, you’ll find one of the best museums in the country right smack in the middle of the mall area. The Ayala Museum has long been a regular stop for students on field trips. They’re best known for their dioramas depicting major events in Philippine history. With the recent renovation, the museum has been transformed into a bright, well-designed, ultra-modern space with interesting interactive displays. The dioramas are still there, but modern events are now shown via well-produced videos. At P95, the book, The Diorama Experience, is a must since most of the dioramas don’t have any explanation regarding the events they depict. The museum has a small collection of works by the masters like Luna & Hidalgo as well as a number of Fernando Zobel, Sr.’s paintings and other memorabilia.

You can access the ground to the 3rd floors for P150. If you want to go all the way to the 4th floor, the fee is P225. The extra P75 is well worth it. There is a semi-permanent display of pre-Spanish jewelry and other objects all made out of gold, a very large collection of ceramics and clothing from the late 1800. I suggest you take the time to watch the excellent mini documentaries that come with each display. It puts everything you see into better perspective. If you read and watch everything, 3 hours might not be enough to go through the entire museum. If you have foreign visitors and plan to hit only one museum, I strongly suggest you take them here.

Like the Metropolitan Museum, the Lopez Museum & Library in the Ortigas Business District has no permanent display. It’s a small intimate space that also holds a library. The displays are changed twice a year. A guide takes you around the museum and answers all your questions. But because of this, they can only take 3 groups at a time. If you’re not in a hurry, browse through their impressive collection of rare books and periodicals in the library.

Go to the northern end of Metro Manila to the city of Marikina and you’ll find the Philippine Science Centrum. Another popular field trip destination, it’s an interactive science museum where kids have fun while learning. The museum aims to change students’ perception of math and science as difficult or boring.

And finally, a little further into Marikina, the shoe capital of the Philippines, you’ll find the Shoe Museum. If recent history is your thing, then you’ll want to check out this place. The museum is small but they’ve got about 700 pairs of shoes from the world-famous collection of Imelda Marcos. They’ve also got footwear that belonged to past presidents of the country.

It would be impossible to hit all these museums in one day. But if you find yourself not doing anything on a Saturday or Sunday, you could easily visit 2 or 3. It is never a waste of time to rediscover our rich heritage, re-learn our past and remember how interesting this city is. So the next time you’re asked what there is to do in Manila, you’ve got a well-planned itinerary ready.

Travel Notes

Casa Manila
Intramuros Admin, Gen. Luna St., Intramuros, Manila
Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 6pm
Admission: P50
Teachers & students with ID P25

Bahay Tsinoy
Kaisa-Angelo King Heritage Center
#32 Anda cor. Cabildo Streets, Intramuros
Admission: P100

San Agustin Museum
2/F San Agustin Monastery, Gen. Luna St. cor Real St., Intramuros, Manila
Daily 9am – 12pm, 1pm - 5pm
Admission P100

National Museum
Teodora Valencia Circle, Rizal Park, Manila
Wednesday to Sunday – 10am – 4:30pm
Admission: Adult – P150
Free on Sundays

Museo Pambata
Roxas Boulevard corner South Drive, Manila
Tuesday to Saturday ¬-- 8am – 5pm (Aug - Mar)
9am – 5pm (Apr - Jul)
Sundays 1pm – 5pm
Children and Adults P100.00
Manila residents (with valid ID) free on Tuesdays and 50% discount on other
Days

Central Bank Money Museum
Central Bank Complex, Roxas Blvd. Pasay City
Monday to Friday 9am -12pm, 1pm – 4pm
Free admission

Metropolitan Museum
Central Bank Complex
Daily 9am – 6pm
Admission: P80

Ayala Museum
Makati Ave. cor. De La Rosa Street, Ayala Center, Makati City
Tuesday to Friday 9am – 6pm
Saturdays & Sundays 10am – 7pm
Admission for residents: P225
For non-residents: P350

Lopez Museum & Library
G/F Benpres Bldg., Exchange Rd. cor. Meralco Ave., Ortigas
Daily 8am – 5pm
Admission: P100

Philippine Science Centrum
E-Com Bldg., Riverbanks Center , Barangka, Marikina City
Monday to Saturday 8pm – 5pm
Admission Fees
Adults/ Students P 90/pax (for 1 1⁄2 hrs.)
Teachers and children under 2 yrs. old - free

Marikina Shoe Museum
J.P. Rizal St, San Roque, Marikina (across Our Lady of the Abandoned
Church)
Daily 8am - 5pm
Admission: P20

Museum Hopping in the Metro

A few years ago, I struck up a conversation with someone. He was in his mid-20s, had an American accent, but looked completely Filipino. Turns out, his parents were Filipino, but he had been born and raised in the States. All his life, he’d been actively trying to discover what being Filipino meant – even taking up a couple of classes in college. So when an opportunity for him to spend a few months here on an exchange program came, he grabbed it. I asked him what he’d seen of the city so far, and was horrified to hear that his cousins had told him that there wasn’t really anything to see but MegaMall!

“What about Intramuros?” I asked. “Or the museums?”

All he’d seen so far were the malls.

Unfortunately, Manilenos are largely ignorant of the fact that their city is rich in history, and has a number of really excellent museums. In Intramuros alone, there are 3 museums: Casa Manila, Bahay Tsinoy and the San Agustin Museum. Casa Manila is a faithful replica of the Spanish era bahay na bato. It paints a charming picture of the lifestyle of a well-to-do Filipino of those times. The San Agustin Museum is a record of 300 years of Spanish occupation in religious paintings, santos, and other religious artifacts. And while the Spanish think they “discovered” these islands, the Chinese were actually here centuries ahead of them. Bahay Tsinoy defines the identity of the Chinese-Filipinos in this country. Plan on spending about an hour in each place.

If it’s an over-view of Philippine history that you’re after, just a 5-minute drive away (without traffic) is the National Museum. It is housed in two separate American Occupation Era buildings: the old Senate Building holds the National Art Gallery and the old Finance Building, the main museum. Walk into the art gallery’s Hall of Masters first to see what is probably the most famous painting by a Filipino, Juan Luna’s Spoliarium, an allegorical depiction of Spain’s treatment of her colony. Also in the main gallery are other works by Luna, as well as a good number of Hidalgos. Climb up to the second floor to the Hall of National Artists for the Visual Arts where you’ll find abstract paintings by Legazpi, Ocampo, Joya, portraits by Amorsolo and BenCab, busts by Tolentino, sculptures by Abueva and Navarro. After you’ve looked your fill, cross Finance Road and make your way to the main museum.

Splurge a little and get the P350 Guide to the Museum of the Filipino People from the museum office to the left of the main entrance, then enter the first gallery, a walk-in diorama of the wreck of the San Diego. The San Diego was a Spanish trading ship, which sank in a battle on December 14, 1600 off the shores of Batangas. Three galleries on two floors in the museum are devoted to the large number of artifacts found in the wreck. Also in the museum, is an extensive collection of pre-colonial pottery salvaged from various wrecks -- evidence of trade between the Philippines and its neighbors long before the coming of the Spanish. Another gallery holds evidence of pre-historic civilization in the Philippines. You can very easily spend half a day exploring the National Museum.

From here, another 5 minutes of driving to Roxas Boulevard will bring you to the Museo Pambata, a fun, interactive learning experience for kids. Here, kids can learn about history, science, and the environment among a host of other things. They also have regular story telling sessions, performances, seminars and workshops. You can leave your kids here while you head on over to the Money Museum and the Metropolitan Museum in the Central Bank Complex, also on Roxas Boulevard.

The Money Museum traces the evolution of money in the Philippines – from bartering to the present day money-based economy. Here you can see samples of currency used during different periods of our history. It also has an excellent collection of rare and unusual coins from all over the world.

Also in the Central Bank complex is the Metropolitan Museum. The ground and second floors hold exhibits that change regularly and talks by the artists are often part of the exhibits. The museum also hosts traveling exhibits from other parts of the world so there’s always something new to see here. The only permanent installations are the gold and pottery exhibits in the basement,

Moving to the central business district of Makati, you’ll find one of the best museums in the country right smack in the middle of the mall area. The Ayala Museum has long been a regular stop for students on field trips. They’re best known for their dioramas depicting major events in Philippine history. With the recent renovation, the museum has been transformed into a bright, well-designed, ultra-modern space with interesting interactive displays. The dioramas are still there, but modern events are now shown via well-produced videos. At P95, the book, The Diorama Experience, is a must since most of the dioramas don’t have any explanation regarding the events they depict. The museum has a small collection of works by the masters like Luna & Hidalgo as well as a number of Fernando Zobel, Sr.’s paintings and other memorabilia.

You can access the ground to the 3rd floors for P150. If you want to go all the way to the 4th floor, the fee is P225. The extra P75 is well worth it. There is a semi-permanent display of pre-Spanish jewelry and other objects all made out of gold, a very large collection of ceramics and clothing from the late 1800. I suggest you take the time to watch the excellent mini documentaries that come with each display. It puts everything you see into better perspective. If you read and watch everything, 3 hours might not be enough to go through the entire museum. If you have foreign visitors and plan to hit only one museum, I strongly suggest you take them here.

Like the Metropolitan Museum, the Lopez Museum & Library in the Ortigas Business District has no permanent display. It’s a small intimate space that also holds a library. The displays are changed twice a year. A guide takes you around the museum and answers all your questions. But because of this, they can only take 3 groups at a time. If you’re not in a hurry, browse through their impressive collection of rare books and periodicals in the library.
Go to the northern end of Metro Manila to the city of Marikina and you’ll find the Philippine Science Centrum. Another popular field trip destination, it’s an interactive science museum where kids have fun while learning. The museum aims to change students’ perception of math and science as difficult or boring.

And finally, a little further into Marikina, the shoe capital of the Philippines, you’ll find the Shoe Museum. If recent history is your thing, then you’ll want to check out this place. The museum is small but they’ve got about 700 pairs of shoes from the world-famous collection of Imelda Marcos. They’ve also got footwear that belonged to past presidents of the country.

It would be impossible to hit all these museums in one day. But if you find yourself not doing anything on a Saturday or Sunday, you could easily visit 2 or 3. It is never a waste of time to rediscover our rich heritage, re-learn our past and remember how interesting this city is. So the next time you’re asked what there is to do in Manila, you’ve got a well-planned itinerary ready.

Travel Notes

Casa Manila
Intramuros Admin, Gen. Luna St., Intramuros, Manila
Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 6pm
Admission: P50
Teachers & students with ID P25

Bahay Tsinoy
Kaisa-Angelo King Heritage Center
#32 Anda cor. Cabildo Streets, Intramuros
Admission: P100

San Agustin Museum
2/F San Agustin Monastery, Gen. Luna St. cor Real St., Intramuros, Manila
Daily 9am – 12pm, 1pm - 5pm
Admission P100

National Museum
Teodora Valencia Circle, Rizal Park, Manila
Wednesday to Sunday – 10am – 4:30pm
Admission: Adult – P150
Free on Sundays

Museo Pambata
Roxas Boulevard corner South Drive, Manila
Tuesday to Saturday ¬-- 8am – 5pm (Aug - Mar)
9am – 5pm (Apr - Jul)
Sundays 1pm – 5pm
Children and Adults P100.00
Manila residents (with valid ID) free on Tuesdays and 50% discount on other
Days

Central Bank Money Museum
Central Bank Complex, Roxas Blvd. Pasay City
Monday to Friday 9am -12pm, 1pm – 4pm
Free admission

Metropolitan Museum
Central Bank Complex
Daily 9am – 6pm
Admission: P80

Ayala Museum
Makati Ave. cor. De La Rosa Street, Ayala Center, Makati City
Tuesday to Friday 9am – 6pm
Saturdays & Sundays 10am – 7pm
Admission for residents: P225
For non-residents: P350

Lopez Museum & Library
G/F Benpres Bldg., Exchange Rd. cor. Meralco Ave., Ortigas
Daily 8am – 5pm
Admission: P100

Philippine Science Centrum
E-Com Bldg., Riverbanks Center , Barangka, Marikina City
Monday to Saturday 8pm – 5pm
Admission Fees
Adults/ Students P 90/pax (for 1 1⁄2 hrs.)
Teachers and children under 2 yrs. old - free

Marikina Shoe Museum
J.P. Rizal St, San Roque, Marikina (across Our Lady of the Abandoned
Church)
Daily 8am - 5pm
Admission: P20

Montalban Nostalgia

Memories can be encapsulated in a scent. So powerful is the fragrance that with just a whiff of, let’s say, a familiar perfume or a childhood favourite dish, an explosion of emotions is evoked, and a deep sense of nostalgia is inevitably unleashed. Similarly, Montalban is a uniquely special olfactory experience for me, as nature breathes in this special place. So distinct and powerful is the “scent sequence” of the journey going there, that I’d know I’ve reached the place with my eyes closed.

Scents in the city
The aroma of coffee in the morning – caffeine is necessary to knock some senses on such an irritably early, weekend morning. It brings my dead-to-the-world mind back to lucidness, and it reminds that I will be in paradise this weekend. Montalban...located in the province of Rizal, is a heaven so close to home for a city-dwelling nature lover like me, and other explorers with the same heart for the great outdoors.

A two hour commute by a Montalban jeepney from Philcoa or Cubao, this is where the famous Wawa Dam is located. Built in 1909 by the Americans, this was originally intended to be the source of water in Manila. But the Wawa Dam’s intended functionality merely transforms to a show of form– it is now a famous destination spot for sight-seeing.

An opportunity to breathe the same air as the Philippine national heroes did, the historical Pamitinan Caves are found here. This was where Andres Bonifacio declared their first Independence from Spain in April 12, 1895. A prominent tourist spot in the area, on the walls of the caves is seen inscribed, in Bonifacio’s handwriting: Viva La Independencia Filipinas.

Montalban’s allure also captured the imagination of the Filipinos. Legend has it that the Filipino mythological character, the extra-humanly strong Bernardo Carpio, the cause of earth quakes, was trapped here by the Spaniards. As proof, his footprints and handprints are still imprinted on the rocks in the Montalban mountains up to this day.

As the slumbering urbanity awakens during my commute towards this mystical place, the light, misty air I once inhaled during the early morning is slowly permeated by belches of vehicle smoke. I don’t take the downward road, though, of complaining about it. It is, for me, an essential component of the journey. It is what reminds me of what I will leave behind, and realize the how gloriously devoid of city grime my destination will be.

Possessive can the city be. Near its exit towards Rizal, it seizes everyone leaving it with the suffocating stench of the Payatas dump site. Payatas, as side note, is a garbage dump site, ironically located approximately 500 meters from the La Mesa Dam, the main source of Metro Manila’s drinking water. Disturbing and disgusting, but is a necessary suffering to get to paradise.

Montalban’s breath
Going down at San Rafael and transferring to jeepneys going to Wawa, there finally is a change in the air. Gone is the pungent stench of the dump site, and is replaced by the nature’s fresh breath. Telling the jeepney driver to take me to Aling Norma’s eatery, the haven for climbers and bikers, I arrive at my destination. I breathe as deep as I can and take in as much air to cleanse my polluted lungs.

Montalban is heaven for outdoor adventurers and around Wawa Dam, Aling Norma is Mother Teresa. Heaven indeed – staying at her place means having a feast! From her trademark crispy, fried chicken (P40), spaghetti (P20) and halo-halo (P20), to cold beer after a long, hard day of physical exertions, she fills travellers with affordable nourishment. Her bare, cement house is a shelter accessible for all. One just has to pay for water usage, which is only P50 per day for staying at her place. For people who want a more luxurious nature experience, they can try renting out an air bed at P100 per night, a far comfortable experience than sleeping in a sleeping bag laid over the chilly floor. Although for me, the discomfort is integral to the outdoor experience. Everything is bare yet real.

It smells positively provincial here, and while it is true that the river is murky and suspiciously acrid with waste, the local government has begun its attempt at conserving the environment. After all, it is the local tourism that keeps the small businesses alive. There are still some disagreements with the charging of fees and Aling Norma still complains that the fees have turned off many of her visitors, but there might be some logic to this matter of funds. As long as the money goes to preservation and the fees are reasonable, it seems a small price to pay for keeping our noses free from urban decay. Many locals hie off to Wawa to picnic and cool off in the murky waters. During the summer months when the current is not as strong, one can watch mothers preparing their family lunch on bamboo rafts while fathers take a close eye on their kids jumping and frolicking in the river.

But to outdoor enthusiasts, particularly for mountain bikers and rock climbers like me, the smells are more pleasant further and higher up the mountain. Montalban lures the inner warrior with the opportunity for a friendly duel with nature. The bait: its rugged terrain of various degrees of difficulty and massive slabs of limestone rock of almost a hundred feet to be conquered.

Bikers have a buffet of choices on what terrain to pursue. One can choose to go the long stretch and bike through the cemented roads leading to Wawa, Montalban. Or one can turn into Timberland heights, a real estate area being developed, with wickedly steep uphills. For hard-core bikers, one can head towards the Montalban mountain and be confronted with Nature’s playful obstacles of several river crossings, single tracks and potentially deadly drops.

Bikers also make their stop at Aling Norma’s, and after friendly repartees and a quick meal, they are off for their day’s adventurous ride. As for me and my friends, it’s a hike through the suspension bridge and up to the crags. Climbing, like yoga, places supreme value on the breath for performance. With the quality of breath is life, so I take in as much air and relish every sensation every time I do so. The river dampens the air as we cross the creaky, old wooden bridge. Passing through a small community towards our climbing site, we get a whiff of poultry and laundry, an indicator of the thriving simplicity of the lives living at the foot of the mountain.

There are more than ten climbing sites in Montalban, and climbing fees are at P50, which we pay through Aling Norma for the local government. The trek going up to either site is an arduous assault, having to climb over huge boulders and steep slopes of loose soil. But despite the gruelling hike going up, the umbilical connection with nature prevails and overrides the exhaustion of the physical body. We nonetheless reach our much-anticipated climbing site, and Mother Nature welcomes us to her playground. She embraces us with her breath through the musky smell of the soil, the moist leaves and the clean air. Slabs of limestone of almost a hundred feet are our monkey bars, and we finally get to climb and play to our heart’s content, with the enthralling view of the vast plain hundreds of feet down.

Mother Nature is fertile in Montalban’s soil, and she creates heroes out of her visitors by the contagious vibrancy of her environment’s teeming energy. Her spectacular landscape spark imagination, her majestic caves protect secrets and arouse bravery, and her topography confounds and challenges. Such is the breeding ground for heroes, where the sheer comfort of the zone is in the discovery, learning and inspiration of every step, every breath and every experience in Montalban.

If a picture paints a thousand words, so can a scent draw a thousand emotions. Going down from a hard day’s climb, the sumptuous smell of Aling Norma’s fried chicken stands for everything about the my Montalban journey – addicting, fulfilling and it’s worth all the wait! As the day’s last reward, it draws out all the anticipation, exploration and awe from within. And I take it all in, inhaling with nature’s breath in Montalban.

Travel Notes
For more information, you may contact the Montalban Tourism Office at (63 2) 941 1295 or email tourismo_montalban@yahoo.com or visit their website www.montalbanrodriguez.gov.ph.

How to Get There
The province of Rizal is located beside Quezon City and Caloocan City. Jeepneys and other public transports have regular routes to Montalban.

A Day in the Bay Area

Click. I stand on a concrete wall, looking down at the waters slapping into the jagged rocks below, turning into gray foam. The light breeze blows the hair away from my face. I notice a white, calachuchi flower floating in the water, following the slow lull of the waves. I hold the camera close to my eyes as I take a peek into the viewfinder, looking for the best angle to take a shot from. Realizing the clutter of rocks in the background, I play around with the different zoom levels of my lens in an attempt to make my subject more dominant in the picture. Keeping my finger half-pressed on the shutter button, I refocus on this flower - its smooth outline a lucid contrast to its rough surroundings. And finally, click.

Looking up, I squint at the sun, its glorious ball still high above the clouds. I glance at my watch, 4:15 pm. This meant that it was still a little early for the main attraction so I sat down and surveyed my surroundings. I notice several families in the distance, one with all three kids eating ice cream, I spot an old man taking a nap on the benches, a few foreigners taking pictures, and half a dozen couples holding hands. It was slowly transforming into a melting pot of different personalities, all gathering here, along the Manila Baywalk, to witness the famous Manila Bay sunset.

Ask anyone where in Manila would be the best place to view the sunset, and they would say, Manila Bay, as the sight of the setting sun over the sea never fails to put on a good show. The two-kilometer baywalk along Roxas Boulevard stretches from the US Embassy all the way past the Manila Yacht Club, to the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP) – plenty of room to enjoy the view. There is a seawall that you can sit on, and a paved footpath lined with coconut trees where you can take a stroll while enjoying the view.

Seeing that I still had time to spare before the sun sets, I flicked on my camera to browse through the pictures that I had taken earlier in the day.

The first set of pictures was from Ocean Park, the first oceanarium in the country. Located behind the Quirino grandstand (at the Rizal Park) near Roxas Boulevard in Manila, it has been open since March 2008. There was a light rain when I went to check it out earlier, but that didn't hinder the hundreds of visitors going to the park. Looking through my camera's screen, I was reminded of the crowded waiting area, as the digital ticket monitor seemed to remain stuck at number 280 (my ticket number was 450). To kill time, I grabbed a cold drink from one of the many food and beverage stalls located within the perimeter of the park lobby. The park was still in its soft-opening phase, and that several developments were still ongoing, with plans to put up a hotel and marine-themed mall, outdoor pools, and an open marine habitat by mid-2009.

There are different exhibits located within the park which one can admire at your own pace. There is no tour guide as each part of the journey is pretty easy to follow. The first part was called Agos (flow), set in an open-air and rainforest atmosphere where the aquariums were housed among the rocks and plants. I particularly liked the waterfall that cascades into one of the aquariums. My next set of pictures showed close-ups of tropical fish and other marine life such as seahorses, gigantic king crab, live clams, and even shark eggs. They were all housed in several separate tanks housed in a dark room called Bahura (Reef). Seeing the huge lapu-lapu on my camera’s screen made me laugh as I had spent quite some time in front of their display, ogling at their size. The next photo marked the beginning of walking through the 25-meter underwater acrylic tunnel called Buhay na Karagatan (Live Ocean), a feature that the Manila Ocean Park proudly boasts of. It may be shorter than the one found at Singapore’s Sentosa Oceanarium, but the Manila version still gives you that feeling of being underwater and experiencing marine life up close. It was obvious I was more than a little trigger-happy with the manta rays that seemed to fly above me, over the tunnel arch, gliding through the water, all of which I found very hypnotic. Schools of fish with different colors and several types of coral and starfish can also be seen in the tunnel.

The next exhibits showed barracudas, various sharks, and an overhung tank in the ceiling. Going past these signals the end of the aquarium exhibits, as the second floor features activities that you can try for a fee. There’s a fish spa to soak your feet in while little doctor fish feed on the dead skin cells. They also offer a short, glass bottom boat ride that goes above the Buhay na Karagatan section.

It can take you an hour and a half to go through all the displays. While it was a good tour, it will surely be more satisfying when the entire facility is completed. Definitely an educational and fun activity that kids and families would enjoy.

Aside from the Manila Ocean Park, there is also another place that has a lot of activities comfortably fashioned under one roof. The SM Mall of Asia, one of the largest malls in the world, sits on a vast 19.5 hectares of reclaimed land by the bay. It is located west of Roxas Boulevard, with a part of the mall facing Manila bay. Here you can enjoy ice skating (they have an Olympic sized skating rink), visit the Science center, go shopping, play billiards or bowling, and even watch a movie in an Imax theater.

My most favorite thing to do at the Mall of Asia is not the shopping and entertainment, although there is little to complain about in that respect. For me, a visit to Taste Asia is a day’s highlight. A glorified dampa, it is here where you can have fresh seafood cooked just the way you like it. If you don't fancy availing of the cooking service, Taste Asia is also a one-stop haven for all the different types of cuisines, be it Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Indian, Korean, or Filipino. Each country’s unique cuisine is available from the many food stalls located side by side. This unique concept can only be found in two SM branches, the Mall of Asia and the SM Pasig mall.

Malls are already plentiful in Manila, and it can be stressful to go to one especially on a crowded weekend. So for those who prefer to get a dose of culture instead of a slice of commercial heaven, A drive further down the bay area will not disappoint.

Rizal Park is found at the northern end of Roxas Boulevard, overlooking Manila bay. The historical park is named after Dr. Jose Rizal, our national hero, who was executed there. The landmark to the park would be the famous Rizal monument, guarded by a 24-hour guard, and which can be easily spotted while driving along Roxas boulevard. Considered a haven for relaxation and family picnics, this park has become a popular local and tourist attraction. With parks a scarcity in Metro manila, a visit to the Chinese and Japanese gardens, the Orchidarium and Butterfly pavilion are a refreshing alternative to mall hopping. Visiting the museums, flying kites around a man-made lake with the Philippine archipelago in the middle, or playing chess with the old men at the chess plaza is a cheaper alternative for families looking for something other to do than mall-hopping. On weekends, free concerts can be enjoyed at the Quirino grandstand. Currently, ‘Ballet at the Park’ is being offered at the open-air auditorium.

Close to the park is another historical attraction – the walled city of Intramuros. Built by the Spaniards in the 1600s, this was used as a fortress and served as the center of religious, political, and military activities. Most of its structures and the high walls remain preserved, and several attractions are also worth visiting.

Both the Rizal Park and Intramuros are very photogenic places. Personally, if I just wasn’t craving for a bite of Taste Asia earlier today, I would have opted to take my camera around these two attractions instead, for not only do they provide inexpensive recreation, but also because they serve as reminders of the Philippines’ rich history.

I am slowly brought back to reality by the growing noise from the crowd, which causes me to shut off my camera and direct my attention to the scene behind me. I slowly look around to check what everyone was looking at, and to my awe, the entire sky had transformed into a colorful backdrop of golden and bluish hues. The minutes tick by. The sun sinks lower and lower and it sets the sky in another canvas of colors, now a golden orange with tints of deep purple. At the center of it all - the orange red ball slowly slipping into the horizon. Its color moves something in me, and my mind tells me one thing - remember. So I flick open my camera one last time, and seeing such beauty from the lens of my camera, I boldly try to capture this moment, freezing this frame for all its glory. A little adjustment of the lens, and, click. A quick preview of my shot elicits a smile.

Finally, I thought, my own piece of Manila sunset, one that can be called proudly, and uniquely mine.

Travel Notes
Manila Ocean Park is located behind the Quirino Grandstand in Rizal Park and is open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.
(63 2) 567 7777
www.manilaoceanpark.com

A Day in the Bay Area

To the Brim: A Drive Around Laguna de Bay

For someone who does not drive, the idea of going on a road trip is always fascinating to me. I enjoy it so much that I am the official “co-pilot” whenever we would drive all the way from Manila to Vigan to Bangui in Ilocos Norte, or from Manila-Baguio or even from Manila to Naga City and then to Rawis, Albay with family. This time, it’s a trip through the route of the old towns around the Laguna Lake for a dose of local religion and culture in servings that we decided to figure out at along the way.

ALABANG – ANTIPOLO
For this trip, we decided to do it on a Sunday when driving is a breeze and traffic jams are almost nonexistent. As such, it takes less than an hour to reach Antipolo, the first stop from the Alabang exit, which on other days will normally be a 2-hour drive. At 9 in the morning we were at the famous Our Lady of Antipolo Church. The Jesuits brought the brown image of the Virgin, for whom the church was named, to the Philippines from Mexico. She has been on board ships plying the Manila-Acapulco routes and is believed to have kept their voyages safe from many dangers like calamities and pirates. Because of this, she was given the name “Nuestra Senora De La Paz Y Buen Viage” or Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage. The church has been rebuilt through the centuries due to earthquakes and a fire that burnt it in an uprising. Today, with its modern architecture resembling a dome, it is a pilgrimage site that brings in flocks of devotees and also the curious. After making silent prayers for our personal intentions, we pass through the waves of people towards the exit. We head back to the highway and go to our next stop, Pinto Art Gallery (1 Sierra Madre, Grandheights, Antipolo City; telefax: (2) 6971015). Just a few meters up the hill in front of the landmark Ynares Center, the gallery is open Wednesday to Sunday from 9am to 6 pm. A transformed weekend retreat house of Dr. Joven Cuanang, a neurologist, the gallery is a whitewashed cube that effectively puts together Zen and Mediterranean aesthetics. Pinto, which means Door, is aptly named, as it is truly a portal into different worlds. Jim Orencio, artist and manager of the gallery, took us on a tour through this sprawling one-hectare complex. A bamboo hut overlooking a lotus pond serves as a spa where relaxing body treatments, massages and other relaxing pleasures can be had by visitors. A small chapel houses the owners’ private collection of antique wooden sculptures of religious icons. Jim’s older brother Andy, also a resident artist, shares with us insights of his life as a painter and offered tips on where to head off next.

MORONG – TANAY
About 30 minutes down the zigzag road that reminds one of Marcos Highway en route to Baguio, we arrived in Morong, searching for San Geronimo Church. Built atop a hill, the Baroque style church has its bell located directly above the church. Normally, bell towers are built beside the Church. Built in the 17th century by Chinese craftsmen, it took three years to finish the church due to the need for a strong foundation to support the belfry.

Another 30 minute drive from Morong and we are in Tanay, our next stop. On the left side of the road we find the province’s second oldest church the St. Ildefonso Parish Church. This national cultural treasure has a Rococo inspired architectural design represented by 5 beautiful retablos or repositories of saints. The major retablo features an image of san Ildefonso de Toledo, the town’s patron saint. The present church is actually a restructured version of the original church that was built in 1606 but was damaged severely in a fire. Its main attraction is the wood-carved Stations of the Cross hanging side by side on the walls. They are celebrated because of the modernized details, with one of the characters even portrayed wearing glasses. The panels are also indigenized adding to the reliefs’ local flavor. Nick Joaquin, a celebrated Filipino national artist, theorized that the first 12 tableaus were created by a local artist with no formal training.

MABITAC – PAETE
From Tanay we pass by Mabitac, dubbed as the “Eastern Gateway of Laguna.” It is the border between Rizal and Laguna and with the Laguna Lake right beside us it was a scenic entry into the second phase of our trip. It was almost 3 pm when we reached Pakil and its sister town Paete, both known as the go-to place for exceptional woodwork. We went straight to Paete where we made a short stop at the Santiago Apostol Parish before touring the shops. Two huge canvasses by Paeteño artist Jose Dans hang side by side to the left of the entrance. Paete is a charming town which remind me of small villages in the European countryside but albeit more chaotic and busy with noisy tricycles speeding past you, leaving behind horse-drawn karitelas in their smoky wake.

It is worth your while to walk the cobbled streets and browse the various shops as they offer uniquely distinct handicrafts, probably depending on the artists whose work each shop carries. Carvings of children playing tinikling and palo-sebo share window space with detailed busts of religious figures and colorful paper maché animals. We came across an art gallery down the road, a pleasant surprise in a provincial town. Although in an artists’ den such as Paete, we soon realized it was more the rule rather than the exception. The Kape Kesada Art Gallery (J.V Quesada St, Paete, Laguna; tel. no.: (49) 5570013) cramped between houses is an art gallery-cum-café. Picnic tables and chairs invitingly wait for customers by the entrance. We soon found ourselves with cups of coffee (50 pesos or US$1/per cup) chatting with the shopkeeper and just wanting to sit there all afternoon.

At 4 pm, we bid Paete goodbye and on our way to Lumban, we make a quick visit to the town of Longos. From the highway the bamboo huts of Exotik garden resto catches your attention. True to its name, Exotik garden restaurant serves exotic food from sizzling sawa (snakes), fried palaka (frog) and fried bayawak (lizard). And prices are not bad at all. (Prices start at 290 pesos per dish).

CALIRAYA- ALABANG
An hour away is Lumban— home to Caliraya, a man-made lake built by the Americans in 1937 to generate hydroelectric power for Manila. Lumban is known for its beautifully made and intricately embroidered barong tagalog, which is the Philippine National Costume for men. Lumban is the only town in Laguna where embroidery has prospered as a major industry. It is very possible for every Lumban embroiderer to trace his or her ancestry to a great-grandmother who was a pupil in the missionary school during the Spanish era. Through the years, the art has been passed on from generation to generation and has even expanded into hand-painted fabrics at present.

Next stop is Pagsanjan, dubbed as Laguna’s tourism capital and is famous for its panoramic vistas and of course the world-renowned rapids and falls. It will take another daytrip to explore the town, ride a boat up the rapids of the Bumbungan River and enter the Devil’s Cave behind the Pagsanjan Falls. Perhaps unfairly, Pagsanjan has had to endure its share of bad press having gained notoriety as a breeding ground for foreign pedophiles preying on the town’s children. It is sad, as “shooting the rapids” at Pagsanjan is said to be a truly exhilarating experience. Thankfully it seems to have unhampered the strong flow of tourists to the area and one just has to go to the municipal hall to get detailed information on how to get to the falls and the incumbent rates for the experience. As for us, we just stopped by its entry gates, Puerta Real of Pagsanjan to take souvenir photos headed back home passing through the towns of Santa Cruz, Los Baños, and Calamba, each deserving its own detailed write-up. Unfortunately, we only had a day and we had to content ourselves with a summary of what Laguna has to offer. But a drive around the 186 kilometers of Laguna de Bay is truly an enjoyable experience, which leaves you yearning for more. It is picturesque, historical and cultural. Our day ended with a scenic shot of Mount Makiling looming over the end of the south Luzon expressway and by 8 pm we were pulling up at the Filinvest interchange in Alabang. And yes, we had a fun and really full day!

Travel Notes

Pinto Art Gallery
Sierra Madre
Grand Heights, Antipolo City
(63 2) 697 1015
Open Wed to Sun, 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Kape Kesada Art Galery
JV Quesado St., Paete, Laguna
(63 49) 557 0013

The perfect stop for tourists with shoe fetish is the Step-Rite shoe store in Pagsanjan. You may visit them at Gen. Taino Street or call them at (63 49) 202 4176.

Reliving the Filipino Religious Heritage

Devout Filipino Catholics who practice the Visita Iglesia during the Lenten Season would be familiar with the churches in Manila. The Visita Iglesia is the Catholic practice of remembering the 14 key events in the death and resurrection of Jesus Christ, through visiting 14 different churches. But it does not need to be Lent to appreciate the beauty and serenity of the churches in Manila. For those who have a day to spare and want to experience the spiritual, a visit to Manila’s churches could be a way to renew perspectives in life.

Because religion plays a big part in the history of Filipinos, the Church is a central institution in most towns and cities in the country. People go to churches not only to practice their faith, but also to keep their ties with the community. Spanish influence is still evident in many town and city layouts, with the church located in front of the plaza, near the government offices, and near the houses of the elite. It is not surprising that a tour of Manila’s churches may very well be a highlight of any tour of the city, as most churches have decades of history and amazing architecture to go along with its worshipping faithful.

Quiapo Church, more formally known as the Minor Basilica of the Black Nazarene, was built in 1582 and has survived the Second World War and a couple of fires through the years. The church is now colored cream after the Mexican Baroque edifice was destroyed in 1928. The Quiapo Church could easily be visited by taking the Light Rail Transit. Get off at Recto station, or as an alternative, take a jeepney from the terminal at the Quiapo market.

As the name implies, it is home to the Black Nazarene, the black statue of Jesus Christ. Filipinos regard the statue miraculous, with countless Filipino Catholics vowing perpetual allegiance to the Black Nazarene in exchange for healing of a family member, or a special wish that is nearly hopeless. Every January 9, the Black Nazarene is paraded on the streets of the town, with thousands of people trying to pull the carriage or touch the statue. In 1998, a replica of the Black Nazarene was made for the processions because of the damages on the original statue. The replica is the one paraded ever since. However, it has not changed the fact that Filipinos pay homage to the Black Nazarene, all year round.

The Manila Cathedral or the Minor Basilica of the Immaculate Concepcion, is witness to the unraveling of Philippine History. First erected in 1578 with the first bishop Domingo Salazar, it is the house of the Archbishop of Manila. It was destroyed by a series of earthquakes from 1599 to 1645, and then a tragic one in 1863, but constantly rebuilt by the Church and its followers. The façade is of distinct design and reference to the era when the cathedral was built. It has intricate stone carvings of the saints, as well as stained glass, and rosette windows.

Manila Cathedral is where most important Church events happen in the Philippines, notably the visit of Pope John Paul VI in November 1970, and the beatification of Filipino saint Lorenzo Ruiz in 1981. More prominent politicians and actors in the country opt to get married in the church, with some of them even contributing to the maintenance and renovation of certain parts of the cathedral prior to their weddings. Standing stolidly within the walls of the old city of Intramuros, it more than complements the colonial ambience left behind by the Spanish Conquistadores. Visitors could opt to take a kalesa ride of history from one of the horse drwn carriages being hawked by eager drivers in front of the church plaza.

To get to Manila Cathedral, visitors could take the LRT and go down at the Central Station. From there, jeepney and tricycle rides are available. Manila Bay, Fort Bonifacio, and Rizal Shrine are easily accessible from the cathedral through another jeepney ride.

San Agustin Church is the oldest standing church in the Philippines, dating as far back as 1571 (completed in 1607). It is located within a half kilometer away from the Manila Cathedral. Its elliptical foundations allowed for San Agustin Church to survive earthquakes that destroyed most of the churches in Manila. Its Baroque façade is nothing elaborate, nothing loud or assuming despite the rich history that is told by the relics and other antiquities housed by the church museum, found adjacent to the church proper. Only the wooden door of the church is sophisticatedly carved. The only clue to visitors that the walls and ceilings inside are as ornate as can be, painted in 1875 by Italian artists Cesare Alberoni and Giovanni Dibella.

The church contains the tomb of Spanish conquistadores Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, Juan de Salcedo, and Martin de Goiti, as well as the Filipino heroes Pedro Paterno and Trinidad Pardo de Tavera. The image of Our Lady of Consolation is also displayed in the church, with devotees frequently visiting to pay homage. San Agustin Church is also a favorite when it comes to weddings because of the magnificent altar.

The Minor Basilica of San Sebastian, found in the middle of the University Belt is awe-inspiring to say the least. It is the only known all-steel basilica in this part of the world. It took two years to assemble the church, with its parts shipped all the way from Belgium in 1888. The façade shows much wear and tear but it seems inconsequential to any that enter. The dark interiors are true to its neo-gothic design, with intricate gargoyles standing watch on groined vaults that line the walls. Filipino artist Lorenzo Rocha painted the steel interiors to resemble marble and jasper. So beautiful is this church that weddings are held every hour, on the hour, as brides willingly pay the relatively steep church fees for a chance to walk down the basilica’s magnificent aisle.

Just a few minutes walk across the busy intersection fronting San Sebastian, one comes to the Abbey of our Lady of Montserrat, the resident chapel of the Colegio de San Sebastian. Any lover of art would do well to pay this chapel a visit as it is most well known for the profusion of color brought about by its 16 allegories, painted with intricate detail by Spanish monk Fr. Lesmes Lopez. The vault is strikingly decorated and the way the interiors were configured, with its intelligent interplay of space and structure are gems for any student of art and architecture and a source of simple wonderment for those less artistically inclined.

These are but some of the churches in Manila and there are a great many others worth a visit. Magnificence is not lost in Metro Manila, not with churches continuing to be centers of local life for Filipinos. The old churches are standing cultural icons – they have survived fires and earthquakes, housed glorious events and lamentable tragedies. But this is exactly how the Filipinos are, they thrive despite any disaster – natural or not – that comes in their way. Visiting the churches brings about renewed spiritual strength, for when all is said and done, whatever the look or style of the church is, no matter how busy or solemn it could get, it will always be a place for people to come together, and see themselves as one.

Guardians of the Caves

The drive from Tuguegarao City took only 30 minutes. I was on my way to visit the Callao cave system that became popular because of the chapel that was built in one of its seven chambers. Today this natural attraction is becoming even more famous because of three young boys that are giving a whole new meaning to the Callao Cave experience.

Not long after I paid the entrance fee to the Park I was approached by a lanky young man who introduced himself as Gerald Taguinod. He is one of three qualified guides to the Callao cave system who had been trained to provide interpretations to visitors. Gerald is fifteen years old and has been guiding visitors since he was eight. I must have been early since I was the first one to sign up for a guided tour. Feeling so eager to do their work, two other boys named Andoy Dalimag and Jerick Apattad decided to join us. Andoy is ten while Jerick is thirteen years old. At the foot of the steps leading to the entrance of the cave, the boys stopped to spell out seven rules for a low impact exploration .They said that we should take nothing but pictures and memories, leave nothing but footprints and kill nothing but time. These are all too familiar sayings until they went on to say that we should add nothing but the love for nature and the pleasure of our enjoyment. Amazingly they took turns reciting a speech that they must have given thousands of times before.

I couldn’t help but laugh as Gerald caps this briefing by saying that we should burn nothing but calories. And I did just that as I struggled to put one foot over the other as we climbed up the 200 steps. This however did not distract me from the amazing performance that my guides were providing effortlessly. The boys kept their composure, never missing a line and always knowing when to stop to allow the others to talk.
“This place was named after the hornbill or the Kalaw bird. But you don’t pronounce it as such. It is not also right to pronounce it like “kalyaw”. The right way is to pause between the two “L” and say Cal-lao,” Gerald spills out in perfect English.

Leaving a mark
At the entrance of the cave Andoy points out a deeply etched “Roosevelt” on the white rock. It is a common belief that the US President visited the park many years ago and left his mark on the wall. Whether the story is true or not, the name has been immortalized forever. The others that came after him must have envied Roosevelt because many of them also left their names on the walls and rocks. Jerick points out that we should not add to the existing graffiti. Touching the walls, stalactites and stalagmites is strongly discouraged since the oil from the palm of the hands can affect the integrity of the rocks.

The Callao Cave System is found in Barangays Parabba and Quibal. It is part of the Peñablanca Protected Landscape and Seascape, a protected area declared in 1992. There are 378 caves in the area and only 75 had been documented by the National Museum since 1977. Callao is the most visited and developed. Out of the seven chambers, three have dramatic skylights through which beams of light filter through. Despite its protected status it was important to put in place systems that will preserve this national heritage. The visitor center that the Province of Cagayan established is designed to monitor the influx of tourists, provide information and orientations and ensure that the caves are not vandalized.

Chambers of Light
The first chamber is where the chapel is. It was built in 1972 by the late Gov. Teresa Dupaya. An archeological site has been established by the National Museum near the mouth of the cave where bone fragments, shells, beads and other significant signs of human habitation were found years ago. In this chamber stalactites and stalagmites meet each other creating massive columns.

The second chamber is just as huge. The ceiling is 162 feet above the ground. The third chamber is where more massive columns had been named “small”, “double” and “big”. The fourth one is a treasure trove of formations – Three Kings, Elephant’s Head, Wing’s of Angel and even a Scoop of Ice Cream. The fifth is the biggest of all seven chambers and the formations here provide more interesting interpretations. Gerald weaves together a story as he points out the skeleton, the two lions kissing each other, the rocket, the angel that was praying, the crocodile’s head and the eagle’s claw. The story continues up to the sixth chamber where another lion’s head formation may be seen, as well as rocks that resemble a boat. The last chamber is best visited between 7 and 9 in the morning because bluish white rays of light beams through the hole in the ceiling providing an ethereal scene.

Before I bid good-bye to my young friends I asked Gerald what he wants to be when he grows up.
“I want to be an anthropologist,” he beams with delight with the prospect of this dream.
I gave him a pat on the back and said, ”Go for it Gerald.”

River of life
After an hour and a half of a highly educational tour of Callao, I decided to explore the Pinacanauan river. It is a tributary to the Cagayan river, the biggest river system in Luzon. It has established itself as a venue for kayaking. But today I decided to take a motorized boat, explore a little bit and wait for the Circadian flight of bats. As I waded in the cool water I filled my lungs with air and enjoyed the sweet scent of a blooming narra tree. The connectivity of life is clearly defined by the way the caves rely on the health of the forests and its ability to hold water. Stalactites and stalagmites can only form if there is water percolating through the rocks from the forest above. This can only happen if there are trees that can hold rain that falls over the mountains. Not too long a stream of black specks flew from a cave on top of a cliff. The bats moved like one entity, pulsating to a beat that only they can understand. They too rely on the forest and the caves. What a way to end the day. I have been to Callao a few times before, and yet hearing the story from the three children gave me new sets of glasses to see the world.

Travel Notes

The Guardians of Callao will appreciate any scholarship that can be provided for them to continue their studies. For more information, you may contact the tourism office of the province of Cagayan at (63 78) 846 7576.

How to Get There:
Domestic carriers have regular flights to Tuguegarao, Cagayan. For information and bookings, you may call Air Philippines at (63 2) 857 5258 or Cebu Pacific at (63 2) 702 0888.

Travel time by land from Manila to Tuguegarao takes 10 hours. There are several bus companies that travel to Cagayan daily.

Baliwag Transit
(63 2) 524 7111

Victory Liner
(63 2) 727 4534

Auto Bus Company
(63 2) 735 8096

Where to Stay:
Governor's Garden Hotel
J. Manzano corner Bonifacio St.,
Tuguegarao City
(63 78) 326 6049

Hotel Roma
Luna corner Bonifacio St., Tuguegarao City
(63 78) 844 2001

Guardians of the Caves

Riding the Wake in Calatagan's Man-Made Lake

When I woke up, the first thing I thought was, I couldn’t move. Then I smiled. My second thought was, “That was the best adrenaline rush ever!” And I wanted more.

The day before was the start of another weekend. I’ve started calling my weekend adventures as field trips. And on this particular weekend, my friend and I were set to have a field trip to Lago de Oro in Calatagan, Batangas.

Long before movie stars and rich kids flipped and flopped with their wakeboards in Camarines Sur, local adventurers already knew of this playground for water sports enthusiasts in Calatagan. I constantly look for new things to discover and so when my friends, who shared the same passion for adventure, told me about Lago de Oro Resort and its cable wake boarding facility, it wasn’t long before I was on the road.

It only takes a little more than a two-hour ride from Manila to get to Lago de Oro Resort. We took the South Super Highway, then exited at Sta. Rosa and passed by Tagaytay. From Tagaytay, we drove towards Nasugbu and turned right past the Uni-Oil gas station. The road goes straight for a while. When you start seeing truckloads of sugarcanes (or start smelling molasses), the Sugar Mill is expected at the intersection. We turned left, passed the town of Lian and then its Calatagan. Lago de Oro is on the right side. The ride is a pleasant one, especially if you don’t mind staring off early. The absence of traffic allows one to enjoy the Tagaytay breeze devoid of the usual pollution. Windows rolled down is indeed a better way to enjoy a road trip than to stay cooped in hours of artificial air-conditioning.

As we neared the resort, we could already see the outline of cable wires against the perfectly blue sky. Immediately upon entry, we immediately saw the man-made, oblong lake. We parked our car on the grassland several feet away from the edge of the lake. The cable park was welcoming and I couldn’t wait to get my feet strapped onto a board. But one needs to register, which meant a visit to the main lobby found in the main resort. There is a restaurant, a pool and a concrete pier that leads of into the sea. The rooms are basic and housed in a two-story building found across the cobbled driveway from the reception area.

The resort has a pool and a beach. But nobody bothers swimming. Because when you go to Lago, what you really want to do is wakeboard.

Usually, the rider is towed behind a speedboat. He or she navigates various obstacles in the water and executes different tricks while riding on the wake of the boat caused by the boat’s movement through the water. At cable wakeboard resorts such as the one in Lago, the sport becomes more easily accessible as it eliminates the need for a boat by towing the rider with an overhead cable that is constantly on the move. This in itself makes the cable area more interesting. There is a shop, a shed for skis, wake boards and skates, and the small dock or jump-off area. Much as I wanted to, I didn’t get to wakeboard on my first try. While I now get a thrill from actually having learned how to wakeboard, I started the way most beginners do --- with a kneeboard.

There are two sessions for wakeboarding. The morning session is from 9:30am to 12:30 noon, and the afternoon session is from 1: 30 pm to 4:30 pm. For those unsure of how they would feel after the first few tries, it is more practical to get a half-day ticket, which costs P990. I was content with half a day’s worth of falling into the water. But my friend bought a whole day ticket for P1,525. I got the half-day ticket. He wanted to make sure he could claim to be a wakeboarder by end of the day.

It pays to be early since the line of people waiting for their chance at the cables is predictably shorter earlier in the day. When my turn came, I knelt on the board then sat on my heels. I grasped the cable and waited for the suspended mechanism to make its turn and take me to the water. The instructor told me to hold on tight and start to raise myself from a sitting position to a kneeling position once I get my balance in the water. He told me to brace myself for the first turn.

When the cable pulled me to the water, I heard the wind swoosh in my ear. I held onto the cable handle tightly, trying to remember the instructions. Slowly I raised myself to a kneeling position, and I did get my balance. I could hear my heartbeat, and feel my heart thumping wildly. Then I saw the first turn. The guy in front of me just fell. Oh, that looked like it hurt a lot. I braced myself as the cable loosened then tightened for the turn.

As the pull slackened, the board slowed down. At the turn, the cable pulled unexpectedly and I was taken by surprise. Still holding onto the handle without the kneeboard, I bounced on the water surface twice before I realized that I fell on my first turn. When I did let got of the handle, water rushed inside my nose as I tumbled under the lake. It was a good thing we were all required to wear life vests or I wouldn’t have known where up or down was. I was dazed, and a little confused.

But hey, what a rush!

It’s a long walk back to the start off area from where I fell. I got out of the lake, a little bruised but giddy for my next ride as I waited for the little Choo-Choo train that ran on tracks around the lake picking up fallen wakeboarders. I quickly got back in line. This time I tried the water ski. Now in a standing position, pain seared through me as I crashed once again on the first turn. I learned later on that crashing on the water is called “face plant.” It did feel like I was planting my face on the water. But somehow, I just wanted to keep doing it over and over, always thinking that I would get it on the next try!

Then all too soon, the morning session was over and everyone stopped for lunch. In the following trips to Lago, we were able to discover a carinderia just a few blocks away from the resort. It served good Filipino food that can cost less than P100 --- a great idea, if you are on a budget and can be bothered to drive out of the complex. You also have the option to bring your own food, blankets and chairs. Our next daytrips were bonding moments created over packed lunches in picnic baskets as we lounged on blankets spread over the wet grass. It’s a great way to watch other wakeboarders and pick up a few tips!

When the afternoon session ended, wakeboarders and water skiers went to take shower in the stalls near the lake. But for the picky, here’s a tip. There are two cleaner shower rooms located in the restaurant’s restrooms. That’s where I go. By time everyone’s cleaned up, sunset paints the sky. The silver lake is still. It’s time to go home. But even on the trip back, there’s always something to look forward to. It’s always good to stop by a café or a diner in Tagaytay to eat a hearty meal after all that jumping and falling on the water.

The day after, my body was stiff and sore. But my spirit wasn’t. And as soon as my mind could order my muscles to move, I was ready for another field trip to Calatagan.
It took me a few more trips to Lago before I was able to ride the wakeboard but eventually, I even learned some simple tricks! Everyone should wake up to each day with a passion to try something new. Wakeboarding is my personal recommendation. Besides, it’s only a few hours drive away. A great thing if you end up dreaming of more--- just like I did.

Travel Notes

Lago de Oro
Balibago, Calatagan
(63 43) 213 2006
www.lago-de-oro.com

Wakeboarding
Wakeboarding is relatively new in the Philippines. Wakeboarding was created from a combination of water skiing, snow boarding and surfing techniques. Instead of using skis, the rider rides a single board with stationary non-release bindings for each foot, standing sideways. There are only 2 cable parks in the Philippines as of this writing. The nearest one is Lago de Oro but the bigger Camsur Watersports Complex located in Camarines Sur is 6-hectares big and has already hosted the World Championships, the biggest international event in the sport of Wakeboarding. Already, the CWC is being touted to be the best cable wakeboarding facility in the world.

Riding the Wake in Calatagan's Man-Made Lake

When I woke up, the first thing I thought was, I couldn’t move. Then I smiled. My second thought was, “That was the best adrenaline rush ever!” And I wanted more.

The day before was the start of another weekend. I’ve started calling my weekend adventures as field trips. And on this particular weekend, my friend and I were set to have a field trip to Lago de Oro in Calatagan, Batangas.

Long before movie stars and rich kids flipped and flopped with their wakeboards in Camarines Sur, local adventurers already knew of this playground for water sports enthusiasts in Calatagan. I constantly look for new things to discover and so when my friends, who shared the same passion for adventure, told me about Lago de Oro Resort and its cable wake boarding facility, it wasn’t long before I was on the road.

It only takes a little more than a two-hour ride from Manila to get to Lago de Oro Resort. We took the South Super Highway, then exited at Sta. Rosa and passed by Tagaytay. From Tagaytay, we drove towards Nasugbu and turned right past the Uni-Oil gas station. The road goes straight for a while. When you start seeing truckloads of sugarcanes (or start smelling molasses), the Sugar Mill is expected at the intersection. We turned left, passed the town of Lian and then its Calatagan. Lago de Oro is on the right side. The ride is a pleasant one, especially if you don’t mind staring off early. The absence of traffic allows one to enjoy the Tagaytay breeze devoid of the usual pollution. Windows rolled down is indeed a better way to enjoy a road trip than to stay cooped in hours of artificial air-conditioning.

As we neared the resort, we could already see the outline of cable wires against the perfectly blue sky. Immediately upon entry, we immediately saw the man-made, oblong lake. We parked our car on the grassland several feet away from the edge of the lake. The cable park was welcoming and I couldn’t wait to get my feet strapped onto a board. But one needs to register, which meant a visit to the main lobby found in the main resort. There is a restaurant, a pool and a concrete pier that leads of into the sea. The rooms are basic and housed in a two-story building found across the cobbled driveway from the reception area.

The resort has a pool and a beach. But nobody bothers swimming. Because when you go to Lago, what you really want to do is wakeboard.

Usually, the rider is towed behind a speedboat. He or she navigates various obstacles in the water and executes different tricks while riding on the wake of the boat caused by the boat’s movement through the water. At cable wakeboard resorts such as the one in Lago, the sport becomes more easily accessible as it eliminates the need for a boat by towing the rider with an overhead cable that is constantly on the move. This in itself makes the cable area more interesting. There is a shop, a shed for skis, wake boards and skates, and the small dock or jump-off area. Much as I wanted to, I didn’t get to wakeboard on my first try. While I now get a thrill from actually having learned how to wakeboard, I started the way most beginners do --- with a kneeboard.

There are two sessions for wakeboarding. The morning session is from 9:30am to 12:30 noon, and the afternoon session is from 1: 30 pm to 4:30 pm. For those unsure of how they would feel after the first few tries, it is more practical to get a half-day ticket, which costs P990. I was content with half a day’s worth of falling into the water. But my friend bought a whole day ticket for P1,525. I got the half-day ticket. He wanted to make sure he could claim to be a wakeboarder by end of the day.

It pays to be early since the line of people waiting for their chance at the cables is predictably shorter earlier in the day. When my turn came, I knelt on the board then sat on my heels. I grasped the cable and waited for the suspended mechanism to make its turn and take me to the water. The instructor told me to hold on tight and start to raise myself from a sitting position to a kneeling position once I get my balance in the water. He told me to brace myself for the first turn.

When the cable pulled me to the water, I heard the wind swoosh in my ear. I held onto the cable handle tightly, trying to remember the instructions. Slowly I raised myself to a kneeling position, and I did get my balance. I could hear my heartbeat, and feel my heart thumping wildly. Then I saw the first turn. The guy in front of me just fell. Oh, that looked like it hurt a lot. I braced myself as the cable loosened then tightened for the turn.

As the pull slackened, the board slowed down. At the turn, the cable pulled unexpectedly and I was taken by surprise. Still holding onto the handle without the kneeboard, I bounced on the water surface twice before I realized that I fell on my first turn. When I did let got of the handle, water rushed inside my nose as I tumbled under the lake. It was a good thing we were all required to wear life vests or I wouldn’t have known where up or down was. I was dazed, and a little confused.

But hey, what a rush!

It’s a long walk back to the start off area from where I fell. I got out of the lake, a little bruised but giddy for my next ride as I waited for the little Choo-Choo train that ran on tracks around the lake picking up fallen wakeboarders. I quickly got back in line. This time I tried the water ski. Now in a standing position, pain seared through me as I crashed once again on the first turn. I learned later on that crashing on the water is called “face plant.” It did feel like I was planting my face on the water. But somehow, I just wanted to keep doing it over and over, always thinking that I would get it on the next try!

Then all too soon, the morning session was over and everyone stopped for lunch. In the following trips to Lago, we were able to discover a carinderia just a few blocks away from the resort. It served good Filipino food that can cost less than P100 --- a great idea, if you are on a budget and can be bothered to drive out of the complex. You also have the option to bring your own food, blankets and chairs. Our next daytrips were bonding moments created over packed lunches in picnic baskets as we lounged on blankets spread over the wet grass. It’s a great way to watch other wakeboarders and pick up a few tips!

When the afternoon session ended, wakeboarders and water skiers went to take shower in the stalls near the lake. But for the picky, here’s a tip. There are two cleaner shower rooms located in the restaurant’s restrooms. That’s where I go. By time everyone’s cleaned up, sunset paints the sky. The silver lake is still. It’s time to go home. But even on the trip back, there’s always something to look forward to. It’s always good to stop by a café or a diner in Tagaytay to eat a hearty meal after all that jumping and falling on the water.

The day after, my body was stiff and sore. But my spirit wasn’t. And as soon as my mind could order my muscles to move, I was ready for another field trip to Calatagan.
It took me a few more trips to Lago before I was able to ride the wakeboard but eventually, I even learned some simple tricks! Everyone should wake up to each day with a passion to try something new. Wakeboarding is my personal recommendation. Besides, it’s only a few hours drive away. A great thing if you end up dreaming of more--- just like I did.

Travel Notes

Lago de Oro
Balibago, Calatagan
(63 43) 213 2006
www.lago-de-oro.com

Wakeboarding
Wakeboarding is relatively new in the Philippines. Wakeboarding was created from a combination of water skiing, snow boarding and surfing techniques. Instead of using skis, the rider rides a single board with stationary non-release bindings for each foot, standing sideways. There are only 2 cable parks in the Philippines as of this writing. The nearest one is Lago de Oro but the bigger Camsur Watersports Complex located in Camarines Sur is 6-hectares big and has already hosted the World Championships, the biggest international event in the sport of Wakeboarding. Already, the CWC is being touted to be the best cable wakeboarding facility in the world.

Where Art is a Way of Life

Anyone with an appreciation for the arts will no doubt find a trip to Angono, Rizal worth his or her paintbrush and easel. The municipality, which lies just 30 kilometers east of the bustling metropolis, is famous for bearing the moniker “Art Capital of the Philippines,” and for good reason. At least two acclaimed National Artists called this place home: painter and muralist Carlos “Botong” Francisco and composer Lucio San Pedro. Numerous art galleries, breathtaking natural wonders and eating places that serve exotic and exquisite cuisine all make Angono an ideal destination for a relatively quick daytime excursion.

November is the best month to visit Angono; the 23rd to be precise. This is when the entire town comes alive with the annual Higantes Festival, the world-renowned fiesta held in honor of their patron saint San Clemente. But if you can’t make the trip on that exact date, don’t fret. Any day is a good day to visit Angono (especially since it’s so near Metro Manila).

Because it is a flourishing art town, no visit would be complete without checking out the numerous galleries and museums that feature works of contemporary local artists. Start your tour with the Nemiranda Arthouse and Museum (located at Doña Justa Subdivision), owned by painter and champion of the Angono arts scene, Nemi Miranda. The Museum houses his own private collection of paintings and artworks, as well as serving as a venue for exhibits and other art-related activities. Sip a cup of coffee at the coffee shop and, if you’re lucky, you just might bump into Nemiranda himself and get to chat with him about local art history, his affinity with the town and hear his stories about the great Botong Francisco.

Your next stop is the Blanco Family Museum (312 Ibañez St., Brgy. Sto. Niño). If there is any place in the entire town where you could witness firsthand the vibrant artistry and sheer creativity of its people, it is this place, which houses the artworks of the celebrated Blanco family of painters. Even if you’re only a casual admirer of paintings, the sight of those splendid images, lifelike and almost all depicted in the school of Realism, will make you catch your breath and appreciate the sheer genius that runs in this family of artists, and by extension, the people of Angono. One cannot help but wonder what it is in the air of this Rizal town that breeds an artistic eye. At least in Angono, the artist gene seems to be as hereditary as the color of one’s hair and skin.

For lunch, one cannot afford to miss the dining experience offered by the Balaw-Balaw Restaurant. Named after a local sauce made out of fermented shrimp, gruel and red rice, the restaurant has been featured in countless magazines, newspapers and TV programs, so much so that it is practically an institution in the Angono cultural scene. For the foodie with an iron stomach, a serving of snake, bayawak, frogs’ legs and deer meat shouldn’t be a problem. Of course, for those with more modest fancies, Balaw-Balaw also serves your regular Pinoy food fare, like kare-kare, sinigang and fried tilapia. Enjoy the food, the atmosphere and the relaxing strains of a guitar trio as they serenade you with contemporary love songs.

After all that chow, try to work off the excess calories by walking to the adjacent Ang Nuno museum. Marvel at the Higantes staring at you from their home the rest of the 364 days of the year, waiting for that one day when they would be let out once again to become the stars of the annual fiesta. If you’re not suffering from art exhaustion yet, check out the works of the artist and founder of the restaurant, Perdigon Vocalan, who, needless to say, was heavily influenced by Botong Francisco. Besides his paintings, many of which depict women in all their glory and beauty, Vocalan was also an accomplished sculptor, and many of his works are also displayed in a hall of the museum.

You’re gonna need all that extra fuel for a short hike inside the Eastridge Golf Club for a look-see of the ancient Angono Petroglyphs. Discovered by – yet again – Botong Francisco, these amazing human and animal figures are said to date as far back as 3000 BC, which would make them the oldest works of art in the Philippines. (No surprise then that they’re found in the art capital of the country). Although not currently recognized by the National Historical Institute, these inscriptions have been declared a national cultural treasure by the government, and its preservation and development are overseen by the National Museum of the Philippines, The Department of Tourism, World Monuments Fund and various other civic and community organizations.

After the requisite picture-taking to post on your social networking site and show-off to your friends, you can motor off to one more artists’ space before calling it a day. The Tiamson Art Gallery is owned by Orville DR Tiamson, a respected painter, musician and multimedia artist. As a painter, he is a student of the cubist’s style popularized by Vicente Manansala. He has also experimented on various other styles and media, including drawings on paper, installations and performances.

On your way back home, try to pass by the cemetery to pay tribute to the town’s two National Artists. It won’t take you very long because the tombs of Francisco and San Pedro lie next to each other. Try to walk down the length of Doña Aurora Street going to San Clemente church, where you can appreciate the murals that line the street, the final, most striking testament to the town’s rich artistic heritage. And if you’re in the mood for pasalubong, pass by the munisipyo and buy fried itik (but be sure to reheat it in oil when you get home; it’s just not that good when it’s not hot and steaming).

Travel Notes
How to Get There:
The municipality of Angono is located at the northeast tip of Laguna de Bay, just ask the taxi to take you there. FX services and jeepneys also have regular routes to Angono.

Balaw-Balaw Restaurant
16 Dona Justa St.,
Dona Justa Subdivision, Angono, Rizal
(63 2) 651 0110

Where Art is a Way of Life

Anyone with an appreciation for the arts will no doubt find a trip to Angono, Rizal worth his or her paintbrush and easel. The municipality, which lies just 30 kilometers east of the bustling metropolis, is famous for bearing the moniker “Art Capital of the Philippines,” and for good reason. At least two acclaimed National Artists called this place home: painter and muralist Carlos “Botong” Francisco and composer Lucio San Pedro. Numerous art galleries, breathtaking natural wonders and eating places that serve exotic and exquisite cuisine all make Angono an ideal destination for a relatively quick daytime excursion.

November is the best month to visit Angono; the 23rd to be precise. This is when the entire town comes alive with the annual Higantes Festival, the world-renowned fiesta held in honor of their patron saint San Clemente. But if you can’t make the trip on that exact date, don’t fret. Any day is a good day to visit Angono (especially since it’s so near Metro Manila).

Because it is a flourishing art town, no visit would be complete without checking out the numerous galleries and museums that feature works of contemporary local artists. Start your tour with the Nemiranda Arthouse and Museum (located at Doña Justa Subdivision), owned by painter and champion of the Angono arts scene, Nemi Miranda. The Museum houses his own private collection of paintings and artworks, as well as serving as a venue for exhibits and other art-related activities. Sip a cup of coffee at the coffee shop and, if you’re lucky, you just might bump into Nemiranda himself and get to chat with him about local art history, his affinity with the town and hear his stories about the great Botong Francisco.

Your next stop is the Blanco Family Museum (312 Ibañez St., Brgy. Sto. Niño). If there is any place in the entire town where you could witness firsthand the vibrant artistry and sheer creativity of its people, it is this place, which houses the artworks of the celebrated Blanco family of painters. Even if you’re only a casual admirer of paintings, the sight of those splendid images, lifelike and almost all depicted in the school of Realism, will make you catch your breath and appreciate the sheer genius that runs in this family of artists, and by extension, the people of Angono. One cannot help but wonder what it is in the air of this Rizal town that breeds an artistic eye. At least in Angono, the artist gene seems to be as hereditary as the color of one’s hair and skin.

For lunch, one cannot afford to miss the dining experience offered by the Balaw-Balaw Restaurant. Named after a local sauce made out of fermented shrimp, gruel and red rice, the restaurant has been featured in countless magazines, newspapers and TV programs, so much so that it is practically an institution in the Angono cultural scene. For the foodie with an iron stomach, a serving of snake, bayawak, frogs’ legs and deer meat shouldn’t be a problem. Of course, for those with more modest fancies, Balaw-Balaw also serves your regular Pinoy food fare, like kare-kare, sinigang and fried tilapia. Enjoy the food, the atmosphere and the relaxing strains of a guitar trio as they serenade you with contemporary love songs.

After all that chow, try to work off the excess calories by walking to the adjacent Ang Nuno museum. Marvel at the Higantes staring at you from their home the rest of the 364 days of the year, waiting for that one day when they would be let out once again to become the stars of the annual fiesta. If you’re not suffering from art exhaustion yet, check out the works of the artist and founder of the restaurant, Perdigon Vocalan, who, needless to say, was heavily influenced by Botong Francisco. Besides his paintings, many of which depict women in all their glory and beauty, Vocalan was also an accomplished sculptor, and many of his works are also displayed in a hall of the museum.

You’re gonna need all that extra fuel for a short hike inside the Eastridge Golf Club for a look-see of the ancient Angono Petroglyphs. Discovered by – yet again – Botong Francisco, these amazing human and animal figures are said to date as far back as 3000 BC, which would make them the oldest works of art in the Philippines. (No surprise then that they’re found in the art capital of the country). Although not currently recognized by the National Historical Institute, these inscriptions have been declared a national cultural treasure by the government, and its preservation and development are overseen by the National Museum of the Philippines, The Department of Tourism, World Monuments Fund and various other civic and community organizations.

After the requisite picture-taking to post on your social networking site and show-off to your friends, you can motor off to one more artists’ space before calling it a day. The Tiamson Art Gallery is owned by Orville DR Tiamson, a respected painter, musician and multimedia artist. As a painter, he is a student of the cubist’s style popularized by Vicente Manansala. He has also experimented on various other styles and media, including drawings on paper, installations and performances.

On your way back home, try to pass by the cemetery to pay tribute to the town’s two National Artists. It won’t take you very long because the tombs of Francisco and San Pedro lie next to each other. Try to walk down the length of Doña Aurora Street going to San Clemente church, where you can appreciate the murals that line the street, the final, most striking testament to the town’s rich artistic heritage. And if you’re in the mood for pasalubong, pass by the munisipyo and buy fried itik (but be sure to reheat it in oil when you get home; it’s just not that good when it’s not hot and steaming).

Travel Notes
How to Get There:
The municipality of Angono is located at the northeast tip of Laguna de Bay. Just ask the taxi to take you there. FX services and jeepneys also have regular routes to Angono.

Balaw-Balaw Restaurant
16 Dona Justa St.,
Dona Justa Subdivision, Angono, Rizal
(63 2) 651 0110

Quiapo and Binondo: A Cacophony of Philippine History and Culture

Turning into Ongpin Street from Binondo Church is like suddenly stepping into another country – the signs on the shop fronts are in Chinese, you don’t understand what people are saying, it even smells different. And the food – hand-pulled noodles, freshly made dumplings, fried siapao!

Binondo is a wonderful cacophony of sight, sound, smell and taste. It’s a place that somehow looks like it stood still, while at the same time giving the very strong impression that it is moving forward at a very rapid pace. People always say the real money is in Chinatown. Maybe it’s the humming caused by the movement of massive amounts of money that one can sense. This area has always been the true heart of the Philippine economy.

Quiapo, on the other hand, mirrors the soul of the Filipino. Where else can you find fanatical Roman Catholicism melded with elements of voodoo? The average Quiapo church-goer will hear mass, and then think it perfectly ordinary to take a seat in front of his or her favorite manghuhula (fortune teller) to see what the coming week has in store. Or if she thinks one of her neighbors turns into a manananggal at night (in Filipino folk lore, a woman who leaves the lower half of her body and flies off on bat-like wings in search of pregnant women in order to feed on their unborn child), she will very matter-of-factly head for the little alley behind the church to buy the tail of a stingray which is guaranteed to drive the evil spirit out of her neighbor! The Spanish may have thought that they succeeded in “civilizing” the Filipinos. What they actually did, was lay a thin veneer of Christianity over the native paganism – the manananggal, the mangkukulam (the witch), the albularyo (the witch-doctor) and the kapre (giant smoking a large cigar) are all still alive and well in the Filipino psyche.

In both Binondo and Quiapo you will find unmistakable traces of the former grandeur of the city of Manila. The promise it once held, before World War II leveled the city - art deco buildings on Escolta, palatial mansions on Hidalgo Street, the graceful Jones Bridge, and wide, tree-lined boulevards, all reduced to shells or piles of rubble in the “liberation” of Manila from the Japanese. In true Filipino fashion, the city was rebuilt and the nation moved on. But like the Filipino with his scarred national identity, the scars left on this once beautiful city are still evident to the careful observer. And nowhere more visible, so close to the surface, than in Binondo and Quiapo.

Where to eat (Binondo):

• Lan Zhou La Mien on Benavidez St. – try the fresh hand-pulled noodles (watch them being made while you wait for your food) and dumplings (about P100/head).

• Mezzanine Café on the corner of Ongpin and Yuchengco Streets – proceeds support Binondo’s famous volunteer firefighters. Try the kiampong and the iced brewed coffee (P200 to P300/head).

• Wai Ying Roasting also on Benavidez St. – for the dimsum and roast duck (starts at P100/head)

• New Po Heng Lumpia House on Paredes St. – located in the art deco Uysubin Building (which used to be a hotel), you get to eat the best fresh lumpia (P40) in a great hidden little courtyard in the center of the building.

• Estero – for those with cast iron stomachs, it’s a row of carinderia-style eateries along the canal (or estero, hence the popular name) that cuts across Ongpin St.

• Dong Bei Dumpling – on the Binondo Church end of Yuchengco St. It’s a little hole in the wall eatery which has the best dumplings! You can also get them packed to take home with you.

What to do:

Binondo
• Take home a pack of the original monggo hopia from either Polland or Holland
• Sample the ube hopia from Eng Bee Tin. Its popularity saved the company from going under.
• Have a bite of the fried siopao (only P15!) from Shanghai Fried towards the Sta. Cruz end of Ongpin
• Feeling besieged lately? Get charms and other feng shui paraphernalia which you can get in any of the countless shops lining Ongpin St. But if you get them from Dragon Phoenix Enterprises on the corner of Ongpin and Padilla, they’ll perform a little blessing ceremony on your charms before handing them over to you.
• Say a prayer in Binondo Church. Built in 1596, it was repeatedly damaged by fire and earthquakes and by the bombing that practically leveled Manila during World War II. Only the façade and the bell tower are part of the original structure.
• Duck into narrow Carvajal Street where you can buy anything from apples, kiwis, dragon fruit to fresh fish!
• Check out Plaza Sta. Cruz where you’ll find the centuries old Sta. Cruz Church and the Carriedo Fountain, honoring Manila’s first water system.
• Off to one side of the plaza is Escolta Street, pre-war Manila’s 5th Avenue. Walk along it and re-live the city’s great past as the Queen City of the Far East.

Quiapo
• It’s a chaotic 10-minute walk from Plaza Sta. Cruz to Quiapo Church – across Avenida and along the dizzying, crowded Carriedo Street. If you don’t feel up to it, you can get on a calesa, the traditional horse-drawn carriage that was the city’s main mode of transport before the war (P100) or take it’s motorized, modern cousin, the tricycle (P50).
• Go bargain shopping in Carriedo. You can get everything from jeans, bags, tops for under P300, to bananas and fresh vegetables, even jewelry-making paraphernalia. If you’re not vigilant however, you can also get your pocket picked.
• Hear mass in Quiapo Church, then climb up the stairs at the back of the church’s altar to kiss the feet of the miraculous Black Nazarene. Every Jan. 9, the Black Nazarene is paraded around Quiapo while hundreds of thousands of devotees try to touch the image, believing that they will be healed of any sickness or have a wish granted if they succeed.
• Just for kicks, get your fortune told by one of the numerous card or palm readers right outside the doors of Quiapo Church (P50).
• Light a color-coded candle – each color corresponds to an intention: green for wealth, red for love, black if you want an enemy to suddenly become a friend (P10 for every 3 candles).
• Need a love potion? Perhaps a cure for asthma, arthritis, AND heart disease? Or a good-old fashioned anting-anting that will make you bulletproof? There’s a little alley behind Quiapo Church that sells all these. Vendors hawking charms that ward off the evil eye (kontra usog) ply their wares side by side with others selling replicas of the Black Nazarene and the Virgin Mary.
• Take the pedestrian tunnel to cross Quezon Avenue and find your way to Hidalgo Street, where you’ll find crumbling remains of once palatial mansions that have now been converted to dormitories. Walk all the way to the end and you’ll find yourself at the San Sebastian Church, the only neo Gothic, all-steel church in Asia. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the basilica was pre-fabricated in Belgium, and the first of its parts arrived in Manila on June 12, 1888.
• If you want a more structured experience, join Carlos Celdran’s walking tour (P600/person). The tour kicks off at the Binondo Church, and ends at the Quiapo Church, 2 1/2 hours later. You can get details, schedules as well as info on the other tours he offers at www.celdrantours.blogspot.com.

Rediscovering Antipolo

According to a recent study, the province of Rizal, mad Manila’s next-door neighbor to the east is, believe it or not, the least poor province in the country. With a poverty incidence rate of 3.4%, even lower than the nation’s capital, Rizal is fast becoming a playground of the rich and richer. Of course, residents of the Metro will all have our Antipolo stories: genuflecting inside the Church of Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage along with several thousand other pilgrims during visita iglesia, getting smashed in one of the countless watering holes that line the road going up to the city proper, or getting wet in the fabled falls called Hinulugang Taktak. If you haven’t traversed the long and winding (Sumulong) Road up to Antipolo in a while, fill up your gas tank and spend a day exploring the abundant treasures in this province named after our beloved national hero.

If you decide to go up on a Sunday, it’s a good idea to start your trip by hearing mass or at least praying in one of the churches there. While the cathedral in Antipolo City proper is an obvious choice, the church located in Sitio Boso Boso (said to be the oldest church in the city) is a quaint and refreshing alternative. Marvel at the old stone façade and feel a sense of history as you quietly reflect on your own thoughts inside the chapel.

For lunch, if you’re up for something different, make your way to Crescent Moon Café. Tucked away in a secluded spot in Barangay Dalig, the restaurant offers Southeast Asian-inspired cuisine that teases the palate as much as it satisfies the stomach. But before you sink your teeth into their delectable treats, you can wander around in the property, where there are ponds with fat koi fish, exotic plants and the stoneware studio of renowned potter Lanelle Abueva Fernando. When you’re ready to sit down and eat, the courteous waitstaff will gladly call out to you. The appetizer alone of stuff-your-own alagao leaves (with chopped ginger, onions, shrimp, coconut flakes, etc. in a cashew honey sauce) is a guaranteed winner. A full set meal at Crescent Moon, which includes pumpkin soup, chicken curry, Asian noodles, native vegetables, fried fish and the oh-so-yummy special suman, costs around P400 per head. Definitely worth every single penny.

A relaxing siesta sounds perfect after that heavenly meal. But how about something better? At the Spa of Callos Farm Resort, a luxurious pampering awaits those seeking the ultimate in hedonistic thrills. For just P650, surrender to the sheer comfort and bliss of a hydromassage, sauna bath, and a combination Swedish-reflex and Thai massage. Relaxation, thy name is Callos.

However, if you’re looking for some more sightseeing, ditch the spa treatment and head off instead to the PACEM Eco-Park located inside Assumption Antipolo along Sumulong Highway. Butterfly enthusiasts will love this sanctuary for the winged insects, while those with a preference for other wildlife can check out the mini-zoo that houses eagles, doves, deer and various other animals.

If you have some time before the sun sinks below the horizon, a visit to the Casa Santa Museum is highly recommended. Located in Jardin De Miramar, which houses the art of such big names as Michael Cancio and Eduardo Castrillo, the museum contains a spectacular collection of over 2,000 images and sculptures of Jolly Old St. Nick. Whether you’ve been naughty or nice, or simply have a hankering for something Christmas-y in the middle of June, Casa Santa is just the place to visit.

Of course, no visit to Antipolo would be complete without admiring the stunning view of the city and its constellation of artificial lights at nighttime, with a cold drink in hand. If you’re with a special someone, dinner at Vieux Chalet, the well-known Swiss-Pinoy restaurant is guaranteed to re-ignite the fires of romance between you two. But if you’re with your barkada or family of six, including the driver and the help, pick any of the bars that line the Sumulong Highway and ask for a table with the best view. You can toast the day and wonder where all that time went. Adventure-seekers may whine that Antipolo’s too close to the city to offer any real thrills, but that’s exactly why it’s the perfect place to discover new things and “get away from it all” but still have enough time to drive back to the unequalled comforts of home at the end of a very long day.

Useful information if you’re planning a trip to Antipolo:

The Crescent Moon Café
Ascension Road, Brgy. Dalig, Antipolo City
(63 2) 630 5854 / 636 3866
(63 917) 523 2356

PACEM Eco Park
Sumulong Highway, Antipolo City
(63 2) 696 3274 / 697 2354

Callos Spa
Marigman St. Nazarene Ville, Antipolo City
(63 2) 650 7889

Vieux Chalet
Taktak Road, Antipolo City
Tel: (63 2) 697 0396
Mobile: (63 917) 856 5175
Email: vieuxchalet@yahoo.com

Casa Santa
276 San Jose Extension, Brgy. San Isidro, Antipolo City
(63 2) 817 1591/ (63 917) 792 3915 / (63 922) 892 3917
miramar@globenet.com.ph
www.miramar.com.ph

Welcome to Island Cove

If you want to escape the pollution and congestion of the metro but do not want to venture too far away from the city, Island Cove Leisure Park may just be the destination for you. Located in Bacoor, Cavite, the place is a mere 45-minute drive from Manila. Offering a variety of activities from outdoor to indoor, dry or wet, tiring or relaxing – Island Cove will appeal to families and barkadas, young and old alike.

Start with an action-packed morning

Adventure Activity Zone
Your adrenaline is sure to get pumping in the intensely competitive game of paintball. At 8,000 square meters, the Global Gutz Paintball field is the largest in the country. The full line-up of equipment is available for rent, with enough sets to accommodate even team building activities. Hide behind structures, crawl through the grass, take a shot at your friends, then run for your life. Can you think of a more fun way to spend a morning with your friends?

If you abhor violence, even the pretend kind, then maybe a “nature-trip” is more up your alley. Rent a bike or ride a horse-drawn carriage and have your own safari around the Animal Island. While the wildlife may be a bit sparse, kids will definitely “ooh” and “aah” over the ostriches, tigers and crocodiles.

Oceania Water Park
A refreshing, even exhilarating dip is always a welcome activity given the almost unrelenting hot weather. The water park boasts of a two-layered swimming pool with 4 giant slides. Escape from the humidity of the city and take your pick amongst soaking in the water, enjoying a rush of air on the slide or relaxing in the lounge areas by the pool. Getting wrinkled from all that water? You can also engage in a competitive game of table tennis in the sun. And if you’ve got children, you need not worry. Just adjacent to the main swimming area is a wading pool which has its own mini slides and water showers that will provide the little ones with as many hours of fun and frolic as you.

Sports Cove
Not fond of the outdoors? Check out the indoor facilities for bowling and billiards. The computerized 10–pin bowling alleys are designed by the world renowned AMF–Puyat. The billiard halls are in a private enclosure and are perfect for exclusive use by families and friends. Why come here to bowl or play pool? Why else but for the peace and quiet, away from crowds and long lines typically found in regular establishments.

Have a lazy afternoon

Fishing Village
Break here for lunch. This place offers a dining experience you will not find in the city. Enjoy eating classic Filipino dishes and Caviteño delicacies such as Pinaputok na Pla-Pla and Ginataang Kohol in huts on stilts over the water. The huts can accommodate groups of varying sizes, from 6 all the way to 150 people. You can even bring along your laptop and take advantage of the free wi-fi connection.

As the name implies, Fishing Village is not just a dining area but is also an enclosed pen for fishing. Whether you just want to try out the activity or are a serious hobbyist, this is a good place to spend the afternoon. You can bring your own gear or rent makeshift fishing rods reminiscent of Huckleberry Finn. The fishing pen is located across the Roxas Boulevard area of Manila Bay, offering a great unobstructed view of the city. There are several walkways going around and criss-crossing an area totalling 3 hectares in size so you do not have to scramble for space with others. The pen is filled with many species of fish like bangus (Philippine milkfish), grouper and catfish. Bring your Ipod, maybe even a book, then with a fishing rod in your hand and the cool breeze in your face, let the hours tick by as you wait for that elusive pull on your line.

Island Spa
Not the fishing type? Need an afternoon of pampering? If you want a more luxurious form of relaxation then Island Spa may have what you are looking for. Indulge your senses in a tranquil experience that will surely rejuvenate and regenerate the stressful effects of city-living on your mind and body.

Island Spa offers a wide array of therapeutic as well as beauty services. It is one of the first spas to adopt and promote authentic Filipino therapeutic massages that combine healing and relaxation techniques such as “hilot” and “dagdagay” to provide an overall feeling of wellness.

Also available are other massage therapies including Swedish, shiatsu and aromatherapy, as well as beauty treatments such as body scrubs, warm baths, facials, foot and hand spas.

End with a night of singing
What better way to end the day than to sing your blues away? Island Songs KTV has 31 private KTV rooms that can accommodate anywhere from 2 up to 25 people. Song lists are available in a wide selection of languages: Filipino, English, Japanese, Chinese and even Korean. Food and beverages are also served to keep you energized throughout hours of singing enjoyment.

Individually, the various attractions may not be particularly awesome but it is the combination of a variety of activities in one location and the convenience of proximity which make Island Cove an appealing destination for city dwellers.

For inquiries and reservations, call them at (63 2) 810 3740 or visit their website at www.islandcovephil.com.

Another Slice of Heaven

I have found my paradise a few years ago, in a place just an hour’s drive from the city of Dumaguete in Negros Oriental. A charming resort in the town of Siaton provided an escape from the fast pace of the modern world where everything is expected to happen in an instant. It was where I was able to slow down to catch my breath and see the world around me as I’ve never seen it before.

The Antulang Beach Resort is a secluded resort perched on top of a cliff, giving guests a commanding view of the ocean. It is the only resort in Negros that has Pool Villas that are perfect for honeymooners. With its own pool and Jacuzzi, each villa guarantees unparalleled privacy on the island. It is a place where one can swim with abandon, with the spectators being only the sea, the sky and your companion.

Though Antulang is an ideal hideaway for romantic couples, I spent three unforgettable days here with my friends some years back. Surprised at first by the seclusion of the whole place, we found ourselves having the time of our lives with the exciting activities that were arranged for us. Each day was filled adventures that were carefully planned out, and everywhere we went, the personal butler provided by the resort came with us. It was a kind of service that, until this day, remains unmatched in all of my travels.

It was with great excitement that I stood again, after three years, at the Dumaguete City airport, waiting for my baggage to arrive and wondering if Antulang has changed over the few years since I have last been there.

We made our trip to the Antulang Beach Resort, passing through the city of Dumaguete and then turning on to winding roads which were now familiar to me. I again remembered the time I was here with my friends. The rough roads somewhat alarmed us because each turn leading to narrower roads became a sign that we were headed off to isolation and we had not a bit of idea about the things that were in store for us. Now, some of the roads have been paved but each turn still led to narrower paths… and this time, I welcomed the thought of remoteness and separation from the rest of the world. I was ready to return to my paradise.

As we were greeted with leis made of starflower and led to our Pool Villa, I remembered that we will be staying there for only two days and wished that we could stay longer. Everything was as I remembered it. The splendid view, the soothing sound of ocean waves, the much-yearned-for seclusion. I immediately took a shower in the stall that faces wide open sea -- this is one of those places where even the bathroom provides great tropical views.

Feeling refreshed and ready for our activities, I explored the resort to see the developments. There used to be only four Pool Villas, but with its popularity among Filipino and Korean honeymooners who always book everything solid, two new Pool Villas were added to give more people a chance to enjoy their special vacation in complete privacy. I also noticed that there are now two infinity pools and a new restaurant called Japi where big group gatherings and occasional cultural performances are held.

By the late afternoon, we prepared for our Sunset Cruise. Our butler joined us onboard the Annabelle Lee, the yacht named after the owner of the resort, Ms. Annabelle Lee-Adriano. The sun was still shining brightly when we left the resort. We passed by several fishermen hauling the day’s catch to their boats and explored Tambobo Bay where numerous yachts are docked. As we turned around from the bay, the sun was starting to set. Sunsets in Negros are nothing short of spectacular. The sky was painted with hues of red and orange with the sun going down on one side and the moon rising on the other as if slow dancing to create this wonderful scatter of light across the heavens. I felt almost one with the earth as I stood there in the middle of the sea, with the sun and moon sharing the sky.

That night, we shared an intimate dinner at the Pool Villa and enjoyed some good conversation as the full moon illuminated the sea. As much as we wanted to stay awake to savor every precious minute of our Antulang moments, we reluctantly went to bed and allowed the sounds of nature put us to sleep.

The next day, we left the resort and made our way back through the long winding road, occasionally catching glimpses of the clear blue waters and the islands scattered around it. And there, as I stared at the peaceful calm of the sea reflecting the dance of the sunshine, I became certain that Negros will be the next big tourism destination in the Philippines. This island, which has become so close to my heart, is sure to give other tourists what it has already given me… tranquility, harmony with nature, and a piece of paradise.

Travel Notes
How to get there
Domestic carriers have flights from Manila to Dumaguete City, the capital of Negros Oriental. For bookings and other inquiries, you may call Philippine Airlines at (63 2) 855 8888 or Air Philippines at (63 2) 857 5258.

The Antulang Beach Resort is located in Siaton, one hour away from the Dumaguete City airport.

Antulang Beach Resort
(63 35) 422 2600
www.antulang.com

For other information on Negros Oriental, you may contact Maritoni Mascardo of the Provincial Tourism Office at (63 35) 225 1825 / 422 0675 or visit the Negros Oriental tourism website at www.negor.gov.ph.

Falling for Badian

There are places where you fall in love and there are places you fall in love with. This is my love story with the Badian Island Resort, the romantic island paradise south west of Cebu. It is a place where magic lingers in the air - the reason why it is easy to fall in love with everything here.
It started when we rode the pump boat going to this so-called magical island that I have been hearing to be one of the most dreamy and enchanting island resorts in the world. As we glided through the water going to Badian Island, I observed the quaint provincial pace surrounding the atmosphere of the place. The boatmen around the waters were going on with their usual daily routine while smaller bancas contained the local children who were on their way to school on the main island. It was a short ride from the small port but it felt longer as we cruised gently on the lake. The boatman said that during low tide, the waters would subside and the locals would just walk along the wet lands.

As we grew closer to the island, I started to hear the cheerful greetings of my hosts. The island’s staff greeted us with a warm and energetic hymn which has been traditionally sung since the resort started 26 years ago. The staff continued on with their singing as we marched on to the reception hall. There, we were welcomed with chilled coconut juice and cold towels to refresh us. As I sipped giddily on my drink, I couldn’t help but think what other surprises were in store for me on this island.

The Badian Island Resort and Spa is owned by Mr. Hartwig R. Scholz and his wife, Ms. Maria Catral and honestly, I want to confess how I envy their home. They have not only made the island resort an ideal place for rest and relaxation but a private escape for those looking for the ultimate couple retreat. The pathways and surroundings were bordered with wild floras giving a rustic feel to the whole place and the grounds were so spacious, giving you the illusion that you’re the only guest in the island. The different suites are situated around the 8-hectare-wide resort. My villa, on the other hand, was located on the eastern part of the resort facing the calm waters of Badian Bay. It was also one of the reasons why I fell hard for this dreamy place. The villa could literally fit more than 20 people but I merrily had it all to myself. I found it very lavish and accommodating with its own living room area, dresser, and king size bed. The bathroom was another story. Tropical flowers covered the bath area which was bordered by a glass wall; yes, that’s right, the whole world can practically see you bathe in luxury. Don’t worry; shades can be pulled down for those who want to take a conservative bath. But nothing beats the glass roof that allows you to bathe while looking at the thick cotton candy clouds or the starry sky. Finally, when I opened the terrace doors of the villa I couldn’t contain my dumbfounded expression as I looked over the plush private infinity pool overlooking the sea. Any more excitement and I would have jumped right in. At this point, I’ve only described the cherry topping to the treats that I had experienced in Badian, and yet I still have more to tell.

In 2006, the resort was named by Asia Spa Magazine as one of the top 10 Island Resort Spas in the world. No one can resist trying the soothing treatments in the open-air pavilions. Some treatments include the use of fresh seaweed scrubs in the resort’s badehaus as well as the sauna facilities of the spa. It also has a Thalasso pool (derived from the Greek word Thalassa meaning, ”power of sea water for the good health”) which offers guests a dip in warm bubbling pool for deep relaxation and detoxification from the natural minerals found in the seawater. I, on the other hand, got to experience the Deluxe 4-hand Massage (1 hour and 15 minutes) where two masseuse used long synchronized strokes to relax and soothe the muscles.

The dishes of the resort were equally exquisite. The resident chef who I learned is from Bicol concocts delectable meals from Asian and foreign cuisine to satisfy the resort’s international guests. But for those who want to have a more private and memorable meal, the resort also offers a romantic dining setting on board the M/Y Dolphina while sailing across the Badian Bay. I got to try one of the chef’s signature dishes, Coco Soup (shrimps and vegetables cooked in coconut milk served in a coconut husk) which I thought was completely divine. The restaurant also has a menu for the guests looking for healthier food options. During dinner time, guests are treated to a cultural show with the natives dancing to local and international music. The fun part was guests were asked to join the festivities. Lastly, located beside the beach is the Shell Beach Bar for those who want to toast with tropical drinks and celebrate happy hours. By the time I returned to my villa to get ready for bed, a little fishy visitor was tucked neatly on my bed to bid me goodnight. How I wished the day never ended.

My infatuation with the Badian Resort was short lived as we had to leave for our next destination. If had the chance to stay a little longer, I would have liked to learn to scuba dive. Badian being also recognized as one of the top ten best diving hotels in the world because of its well-preserved diving sites and house coral reefs. It’s also near Pescador Island (20-minute boat ride), one of the most popular dive sites in the Philippines.

As we boarded the boat that would bring us back to the main land, I grew uncertain thinking when I will be able to come back to Badian which I have grown to love. But as the staff bade us farewell with a serenade, I knew that I was going to return to this enchanted island and fall in love again.

Travel Notes
HOW TO GET THERE:
Cebu is a regular destination route in domestic and international flights. From the Mactan-Cebu International Airport, visitors have to take a two-and-a-half-hour drive at the southwestern coast of Cebu. From the mainland, guests will take a short five-minute boat ride going to the island resort. Helicopter transfers from the airport (20 -minute ride) are also available.

Badian Island Resort & Spa
Badian Island, Cebu
(63 32) 475 1102 to 1106 â�¯â�¯â�¯â�¯
www.badianhotel.com

WHAT TO DO:
The resort offers many other fun-filled activities such as Dolphin Watching, Island Hopping and Pleasure Yacht trips. Just inform the staff ahead of time what package you want and they will provide it for you.

Another exciting excursion is a trip to Kawasan Falls. Just a 10-minute ride from the Cebu mainland and another 15-minute nature walk and you can see the beauty of Kawasan. Visitors can swim on the clean basin and eat meals on the picnic tables located beside the falls.

Los Banos: A Trip Down Memory Lane

If any vacation spot were to be termed a classic, in my mind it has got to be Los Baños in Laguna. Back when I was a kid and being in a two-piece bikini despite marshmallow arms and an ample stomach was considered cute, “out-of-town “ and family vacations used to mean a yearly visit to this resort town. My childhood memories always equate Los Baños to Crystal Springs and Splash Mountain, just two of the numerous hot spring resorts that dot the main highway going to the town proper. Nestled on the northern slopes of the dormant volcano Mt. Makiling, L.B. as it is fondly called was first made famous for the natural mineral pools that well up from the base of the volcano. I used to wonder why bathing in hot pools was such a treat since as a child growing up in a tropical country, there seemed to be no better vacation than to take a break from the heat and humidity of the metropolis. But now that I am older and much more educated in the relaxing benefits of spas on my tired, abused muscles, I remember Los Baños with a different kind of appreciation.

My succeeding trips to Los Baños at different times of my life have changed what I like most about the town. But the discoveries have made it even more of a destination that it used to be when I looked forward to nothing more than the variety of water slides and the excuse to pig out on picnic food and tsitsirya that were only allowed during such vacations. As a mountaineer with a developed love for the outdoors, at one point it was the mountain itself and no longer the springs at its base that held interest for me. And while the resorts still attracted its share of tourists, I looked forward to visiting the Flatrocks, the creek frequented by recreational hikers, or go for the more arduous trek to the mud springs, which is erroneously thought to be the crater of the volcano. Despite the many leeches that make the rainforest their home, Mt. Makiling is a popular hiking destination and is the closest virgin forest one can visit from Metro Manila. There are 2 popular trails to reach the summit of Mt. Makiling, called Peak 2. One originates from Sto. Tomas in nearby Batangas but it is a more difficult trail, which makes the Los Baños trail, which begins at the University of the Philippines campus, the more popular one. Those who choose not to hike can ride 4x4 vehicles or pick-ups, cutting the hike to the boiling volcanic mud springs to a short but adventurous 750-meter hike along a narrow dirt trail. Unfortunately, the trail was temporarily closed in 2006 due to damage brought about by a typhoon.

Lovers of nature will not be disappointed with a trip to Los Baños. The presence of the University of the Philippines College of Agriculture is a testament to the wide variety of Flora and Fauna that are present here. I personally would recommend a visit to the Makiling Botanical Gardens where one can appreciate the majesty of the century old trees that make up the Makiling Forest Reserve. Found within the gardens is the Philippine Center for Raptors. It initially caught my attention as I conjured up images of towering prehistoric beasts. As it turns out, raptors are actually birds of prey. The center is home to a great variety of specimens including the magnificent and stately Philippine Eagle.

Animal lovers might want to stop over at La Vista Pansol. While Pansol is another Los Baños classic, known for its hot springs, it is also home to the Laguna Wildlife Rescue and Rehabilitation Center (LWRRC). Here you will find endemic species of birds, small mammals and reptiles found in Laguna, such as raptors, wild boars, bearcats, civet cats, and macaques. These animals are usually rescued and surrendered to the center and they are rehabilitated and hopefully, are freed into the wild once they are deemed ready. The center also has a collection of exotic birds from South America, like parrots and cockatoos that are well adapted to humans and visitor friendly.

Los Baños is a town that radiates with youthful energy and is vibrant with an intellectual air. No wonder as not only is it home to one of the biggest campuses in the Philippines but is also the location of many research foundations and other academic institutions including the International Rice Research Institute and the ASEAN center for bio-diversity. Indeed, the setting is conducive to hours of quiet study and contemplation, which is perhaps why it was chosen as the site for The Makiling High School for the Arts where scholars in the visual and performing arts are allowed to let their creativity flow and develop. Inspiration is surely not hard to come by in this place, as a steep drive up to the multi-purpose hall of the compound will reward anyone with the most panoramic view of Laguna de Bay. On the way down, one should definitely pass by the magnetic hill, named such as a magnetic force seems to cause an illusion of water traveling upward. Experiment with small tin cans and watch them roll up the hill. We always put our engines on neutral at the designated starting point and wonder how our car is “pulled” up the hill, as if – you guessed it – it has been magnetized.

It has been a while now since I have been back to Los Baños, and with each visit it seems there is always something new to discover. Fast-food restaurants and trendy coffee shops seem to sprout up like mushrooms in new complexes made picturesque by large mango trees. But if there is one thing that remains constant, it is the quality of the local delicacies. One cannot say you have been to Los Baños without taking home a couple of buko pies, still piping hot from the oven. Or a liter or two of the freshest cow’s milk and the kesong puti, the popular Laguna white cheese wrapped in banana leaves. To me, Los Baños will always be classic; a place of enduring excellence - simple, restrained and refined. It is a place of warm springs and comforting childhood memories made sharp and poignant by each pending return.

Laguna’s Pride
The University of the Philippines in Los Baños is the only university in the country to receive a Ramon Magsaysay Award as well as a KBP Golden Dove Award- one of Philippine media's most prestigious trophies.

Alumni from UPLB include 16 of 31 national scientists, three Nobel Prize co-winners, all of the five Filipino fellows of the Third World Academy of Sciences, at least 30 of 87 academicians of the National Academy of Science and Technology and five Palanca Award winners. It has also produced leaders in industry, government and the academe.

A Walk in the Walled City

Walk your way around the historical sites of Intramuros, Manila with colorful tour guide, Carlos Celdran on his “If These Walls Could Talk” tour. With so little actually left of the beautiful original architecture which once earned Old Manila the title “Pearl of the Orient”, touring the area on your own without the benefit of a guide can be quite disappointing. The lack of brochures and signage explaining points of interest and their significance can likewise make the trip quite boring. However, Carlos Celdran is able to masterfully bring the history of the area to life with his dramatic flair, props and even visual aids, making the experience feel more like a mobile one-man show. Not a bad day to spend a day!

The tour starts off at Fort Santiago. Let Carlos bring you back to pre-Spanish Manila, when the area served as a bustling trading port between the East and the West. Be mesmerized by his colourful tales of how the Spanish successfully colonized the country, ending with the death of Dr. Jose Rizal – the Philippines’ national hero. See Rizal’s immortalized footsteps during his walk from the dungeon to his execution. Carlos’ tour of the area, while rich in information, doesn’t allow for a leisurely walk to inspect the entirety of the facility. Best to keep your ticket and return on your own later to get a better look around and pause for photo opportunities.

From the Fort, take a short kalesa ride a few blocks down to San Agustin church. Locals would find this an ordinary sight in old Manila, but foreigners and balikbayans will find this pre-war mode of transportation a fun (albeit somewhat smelly) experience.

San Agustin Church is the only remaining original structure from the seven churches which used to occupy Intramuros before World War 2. Most of the church was thankfully left unscathed during the attack on the city as it was used as a base of operations by the Red Cross. While not particularly impressive from the outside, the exterior is already indicative of how both East and West have influenced Philippine culture and history – where else can you find a combination of Chinese dragons, tall columns and Christian figures adorning a church entrance. Inside, you will find a combination of Italian frescoes and Spanish woodwork. The Augustinian priests may have taken a vow of poverty for themselves, but it seems that did not extend to decorating as the church’s interior is very opulently done.

Adjacent to the Church is a museum housing religious paintings and other memorabilia. Again, Carlos will transport you back in time to Manila during World War 2. Prepare to get teary-eyed with his passionate account on the destruction of Intramuros and the death of thousands of Filipinos as the Japanese and Americans battled for control of the city. Despite the destruction and looting during the war, the Church has managed to keep a wide collection of items from the Spanish era. Carlos’ tour only takes you through one section of the museum and bypasses most of the Church which almost always has either a mass or wedding ongoing. Return in the afternoon for a more thorough inspection on your own.

The last stop is Casa Manila. Unfortunately, the tour no longer goes into the museum due to restrictions on tour group size. You will have to go on your own. Instead, Carlos takes you on a walk around the compound which is an excellent example of both Spanish and Chinese influence on pre-war architecture. Expect to take a break and enjoy a refreshing “halo-halo” dessert which seems symbolic of the true nature of Filipino culture – taking the best from other cultures and putting them together into our own unique mix.

Lunch Break
Before continuing on your exploration of Intramuros, escape from the heat and take a leisurely break for lunch. There are a variety of options in the area which will fit the historical theme of the day.

Walk down about four blocks from Casa Manila to Ilustrado (744 General Luna St., www.ilustradorestaurant.com/index.html). While only the Kuatro Kantos bar is open during lunch, the place has a very interesting ambiance - filled with a variety of old posters and other knickknacks. The waiter will likely present you with their menu of European dishes. If you are in the mood for local cuisine though, ask for their menu of Filipino food. While the fare is pretty standard and can be found in most restaurants, it is their unique ice cream flavour offerings which are worth a try. A must try – Sampaguita ice cream! Sampaguita is the Philippine national flower. While the idea may be a little discomforting, it is actually a delightfully light vanilla flavoured ice cream infused with a fragrant Sampaguita smell.

If you are up for a bit of a drive, located about 30 minutes away near Malacanang is La Cocina de Tita Moning (315 San Rafael Street, San Miguel District, www.lacocinadetitamoning.com). While not popularly known due to its location, this place is highly recommended for the unique ambiance and excellent food. Owned and operated by Suzette Legarda Montinola, the restaurant is housed in her maternal grandparents’ ancestral home. Built in 1937, it was one of the first art deco houses in Manila. Most of the house is open for tour, showcasing works by Filipino National Artists, displays of antique camera and radio equipment and other significant social and historical pieces. The menu selection is extensive – make sure you call ahead as lunch and dinner is strictly by reservation only.

With his tours, Carlos Celdran aims to change the way you look at Manila – one step at a time. And indeed, bit by bit he is accomplishing just that with the glowing reviews for his tours and regular demand the past four years. While his Intramuros one remains the most popular, Carlos also offers a variety of other tours regularly: Escolta and Quiapo, the Imelda tour (CCP and PICC) and Corregidor Island. Visit his site www.celdrantours.blogspot.com for tour information.

Surfing in Taytay

In the sport of surfing, one must separate reality from the hype. The hype involves an image of the sport - a ‘coolness’ and ‘sexiness’ conjured by the media and advertising. Now: let’s jump over to reality, where the sport of surfing is about you, your body, your board, the wave. No ad campaign, no pumping soundtrack, just nature, physics and fun.

For those yet uninitiated, the sport is truly all about fun. The feeling one gets when first propelled by a wave is pure, unadulterated beauty, perfection and harmony. That’s that. And it’s common knowledge that the Philippines is one of the best countries in the world to enjoy the sport, with more exposed coastline than the continental USA, and oceans slamming swells into every corner of the archipelago. This is all well and good, but how does someone who is completely inexperienced in the sport of surfing, and knows nothing about wave hydrology, get started? Trips to surf destinations may yield, due to nature’s whims, conditions that can either under- or overwhelm new surfers. Time, expense and lack of experience have stopped a lot of people interested in the sport of surfing from trying it out. Picture someone who wants to learn to surf heading up to La Union, only to find that the waves are big and intimidating, or worse, flat as a lake. Veteran surfers know this is part of ‘the search’, but it can be a bit frustrating for people wanting their first taste of surfing.

Now, however, a great option has manifested itself and will open the doors of accessibility to a whole new generation of surfers. It is called the wave pool. Artificially created waves are perfect for people wanting to get their basic skills checked off before hitting the reefs and beaches around the Philippines. Over in Taytay, Rizal Province is a surfing neophyte’s dream come true. Instructors of the Philippine Surfing Academy (PSA) have started teaching surfing lessons at Club Manila East (CME). CME’s beach waves, created in man-made pools pumping out one to four-foot waves is perfect for beginners. “We actually went on a surf safari here in Manila- we looked all over the country for places to teach beginners safely, and we found a few. There are about 8 wave pools in the Philippines, but we stopped looking when we found Club Manila East,” recounts Paolo Soler, President of PSA. “The wave pool at CME has the perfect combination of water depth, wave choice and accessibility that we were looking for. It’s the best wave pool in the country.”

PSA started lessons 5 months ago, and has seen nothing but massive interest from Day 1. Paolo, together with Australian surfer Darryl Buckley who handles head coaching duties, and other staff, such as surf instructor Ejay Ventura, who himself learned to surf at CME, make surfing as easy to learn as skateboarding on the streets. “We’ve had 200 students in 4 months, and are aiming for 200 a month by the end of the year. We are expecting to have trained more surfers than the whole surfing population of the Philippines. We were teaching in the ocean, but were looking to overcome some of the biggest hurdles for potential learners here in Manila, and travel time certainly is one of them.”

The machinery creating the waves comes from Scotland, and has compressed air creating the waves in 9 different shapes patterns, such as left and right handers, parallel and diamond shaped peaks, depending on the users needs. Waves can be set at one to four feet, and the gradually sloping pool bottom is perfect for nice, short, safe waves, perfect for learning. “Our goal is to make good surfers out of people. Tons of people want to learn, but a lot of people try out surfing and sometimes have some hairy first experiences-we don’t want anyone’s first surf experience to be full of bad memories. Here, we teach them about waves, about safety and about their relationship with the board.”

The park has many attractions for surfers and other water enthusiasts. There are water slides, kayaking, a 600-foot long man-made river, waterfalls, a 25-meter lap swimming pool, basketball, restaurants, a golf driving range and function rooms. The future of CME looks even bigger, as well, as another wave pool, almost 3 times the size of the current one, is under construction and should be finished soon. The basic package for beginning surfers is Php1,500, and includes instruction from certified professional coaches, use of safe foam rubber soft-top surf boards (sharp-edged fiberglass and epoxy boards are not allowed at the park, for safety reasons), 2 hours of use of the wave pool and all day admission to the other attractions at CME. Additional charges can be added for further usage of boards, and different rates can be levied for those who do not need instruction. Wave sessions are from 8 to 10 am, 10 am to 12 noon, and 2 to 4 pm.

“There are two types of surfers- those who just want to try it once and get their photos taken, and those who fall in love with the sport, and dedicate themselves to it,” Paolo says with a smile. “Our lessons here are for the second type. This is not about the image- this is all about building a community, and about the sport of surfing. Our school is borne out of our love for the sport, and we aim to share that love with a whole new generation of Pinoy surfers.”

For bookings call 357 5452, 631 2805 or 0920 900 5589, email info@philippinesurfingacademy.com, or click over to www.philippinesurfingacademy.com

Puning Spa

The eruption of Mount Pinatubo in 1990 greatly devastated the Philippines, but it also brought forth good things that now benefit a lot of people. Puning Spa, situated at the edge of Sapangbato, Angeles, Pampanga, makes good use of the elements spewed by Mount Pinatubo by turning it into spa essentials that heal the body and relax the mind.

Puning, an aeta term meaning “lots of trees”, has three stations that showcase the beauty of the majestic mountains. All of these stations can be reached by riding a 4x4 vehicle which can accommodate a maximum of 7 guests. Tourists are not allowed to bring their cars inside the Puning zone because only 4x4’s can drive through the rough roads that lie ahead.

First stop, the Base Camp. This first station, which is about 20 minutes away from Clark, Pampanga, is also the receiving area and restaurant. This is where tourists can rest for a while and enjoy the beautifully landscaped gardens while having lunch or dinner. Puning Spa offers buffet meals and guests have the liberty to choose whether they want to have their meals before or after the treatments.

After relaxing at the Base Camp, guests will then proceed to the second station… the massage area. Located just 10-15 minutes away from the Base Camp, the second station is where one will receive 3 spa treatments, starting off with a 40-minute foot massage. Relax your mind and calm your senses as you sit back and enjoy the massage given by the aetas (the natives of Pampanga) who were hired by the Puning management to attend to the needs of all their guests.

After the foot massage, guests will proceed to a boxed area that is full of sand. This is where the Sand Spa takes place. You will have to lie down in the sand and have the natives pour sand all over your body. Once fully covered, you will feel the heat from the kiln and the pressure of the sand. Heat and pressure are two of the most simple and effective therapies. Pressure, like a massage, soothes the muscles and treats circulatory disorders and conditions. Heat therapy, on the other hand, provides both pain relief and healing benefits for many types of pain.

After the 10-minute Sand Spa, guests will proceed to the Mud Pack area where they will lie in beach chairs and have themselves covered in mud. The mud solutions that are being used at Puning come from the ashes emitted by Mount Pinatubo. The sulfuric volcano ash can revive sagging skin and gives a certain relief to the whole body.

Before going to the third station, guests must of course wash off the mud in the clean restrooms of Puning. There are separate locker areas for men and women that have clean toilets, locker cabinets and shower stalls.

Third station, the hot springs. The Puning Hot Springs are located about 25 minutes away from the massage area. Here you can behold the glory of nature as you enjoy the sight of smoking-hot spring water gushing through boulders. The spring water on the far side of the spa has temperatures reaching up to 80 degrees – definitely not fit for swimming! Puning has 1 cold spring pool for children and 5 hot spring pools with just the right water temperatures to heal the body. The warm sulfuric waters are known for its painkilling power and ability to eliminate toxins from the body through sweat and heal many diseases and conditions such as rheumatism and athlete’s foot.

Puning Spa is now one of Pampanga’s greatest attractions. Foreigners are flocking to this place of well-being, not only to gain from the healing benefits of nature, but also to enjoy the great adventure of travelling in 4x4 vehicles through extraordinary mountain passes that will surely take your breath away.

To book for this special spa experience, call Max Lee at (63) 916 6026912 or Myra at (63) 928 6237669 or e-mail puning_hotspring_spa@yahoo.com.ph.

Corregidor: The Last Stand Lives

Standing tall as a significant bastion during World War II, Corregidor is a tadpole-shaped island at the entrance of Manila Bay. With its strategic location fronting the Philippine coastline, Corregidor, perhaps unwillingly, established itself as an instrumental site and focal point for the naval defenses of Manila. This crucial role earned it its moniker of “The Rock”.

Boarding a ferry from the old Hoverferry terminal near the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex along Roxas Boulevard is all that it took for me to reach Corregidor—thereby making it the ideal getaway for the hustle and bustle of Manila’s crowded streets. The ferryboat to the island was itself the first of many pleasant discoveries on the trip. Used to the dismal state of transportation in the country, especially of smaller sea craft, the shining, spotless deck of the ferryboat was a welcome surprise. The ferryboat itself was a jewel in its own right and gives a good premonition of what visitors can expect for the rest of the tour. Taking the earliest ferry out at 8:00AM, I set foot at the North Dock of Corregidor in no time, which took about an hour and some change. First thing to notice upon arrival is the oasis of calm that the place seems to exude. The feeling is surreal, as if I’ve suddenly been transported back in time. While the structures are modern and obviously built to accommodate present day tourism, history seeps into the very air we breathe in Corregidor. The streetcar—called tramvia—that picked us up at the dock is actually a pre-war type of vehicle. Around the island are still the ruins of the big guns and artillery used in 1941 when allied Filipino and US defenders took their last stand against the Japanese. There is a forlorn feeling going around the beautiful island, as if the pain and agony of dying countrymen remain stamped on the battlements and rusting machinery. And yet it is a place of courage, as General Douglas MacArthur made good on his promise to return to the Philippines by taking back Corregidor from the Japanese after the fury of war once again took the island in 1945.

A buffet lunch awaits the day-trippers at the Corregidor Hotel. After all, no one would feel very patriotic with an empty stomach. Personally, it is a smart thing to go for the guided tour with narration, as it makes the sights more relevant to the viewer when hearing stories of the distant past that occurred within the island. It also ensures you do not miss anything of interest as you explore the different sectors of Corregidor from the monumental General MacArthur Park to the peculiar Malinta Tunnel. Being a bombproof shelter, the tunnel has a certain mystique that is both eerie and reassuring at the same time. For an additional cost, we were treated to a light and sound show at the tunnel that reenacted wartime events. One can almost smell the gunpowder and feel the heat of battle with the impressive show. It was an audiovisual feast, to say the least.

While Corregidor Island symbolizes the heroism of Filipino and American soldiers during WWII, it is also a perfect destination for those less historically inclined. The picturesque island also doubles up as an adventure destination that caters to different travelers. Those inclined towards art can spend the day “Rock Balancing”. Apart from Corregidor’s gifted heritage is its gifted landscape, which is composed of white rocks with hints of red. Because of this odd yet aesthetic anomaly, the rocks have been called “bloodstones”. Hikers will also find a daytrip to Corregidor worthwhile as they could hike through forest trails and take rest stops at must see sights. Topside one can see the ruins of the mile long barracks and the old movie house a few steps away from the manicured Pacific War Memorial. Climb the Spanish lighthouse and reward a long walk with a magnificent view of Corregidor flanked by the South China Sea and Manila Bay. Middleside is a good place for families as parks are open for picnics, kite flying and other activities one simply cannot do in the cramped confines of the city. Here, one can stroll around the Fil-Am Friendship Park and go around the 3,000 square meter aviary to view a variety of feathered friends. If you’ve managed to circle every inch of the island and find yourself still thirsty for history, you can board an outrigger boat that hops on the neighboring isles of “concrete battleship” Fort Drum and the scenic coast of Mariveles. This boat tour also makes a stop for sport fishing, specifically at the Bagac coastline.

During the entire trip, I hardly said a word. I spent my time envisioning the scene of violence and patriotism in silence. My camera did the talking. The beauty of the island is apparent no matter the angle or the saturation. The island breathes of a time with a heady mix of bitter and sweet, of fear and courage, of heroism and a fight for sovereignty. This island, albeit calm and silent, is a breathing monument of a past that lives on through stories passed on by it’s tour guides and pictures taken by visitors. As we allow the island’s importance to sink in, it is clear that simply taking a stroll at the batteries and barracks is a reward in itself. There are rare occasions wherein the silence of one place cannot be contained and proves as deafening as the loudest noise. After a visit to Corregidor, I realize, maybe as a sort of epiphany, that this is one of those occasions. That despite the war-related memories this place brings forth, Corregidor now manifests a tranquil ambience, and this makes beautiful music to our ears.

Travel Notes

Day tour courtesy of Sun Cruises
Inclusions: Roundtrip ferry transfers; Shrine, entrance and terminal fees; Guided island tour, Buffet Lunch/ Php1,999
Additional Php150 for the Light and Sound Show at the Malinta Tunnel

Stopping to Smell the Roses

If doing nothing is an art, then I’m a Da Vinci or a Michelangelo. A blank space on my planner is pure bliss, and there’s nothing I look forward to more than a weekend filled only with spectacular possibilities to lay back and chill. So when I got the invite to engage in the artful pursuit of having absolutely nothing to do, you can bet I was up at the crack of dawn and driving up to Sonya’s Garden in Tagaytay faster than you could say “high gas prices be damned!”

I’ve made many trips to that little slice of botanical heaven, and as a city kid through and through, every time I’m there, I can’t help but draw my breath in at the sheer magnificence and beauty of it all: a garden straight out of a genuine English countryside, complete with butterflies dancing during the day and fireflies brightening up the night; the tantalizing smell of freshly baking bread as you pass by the panaderia; the quaint little white linen-draped nooks scattered around the garden that conjure images of carefree lovers whispering sweet nothings into each others ears. And the food! You come to Sonya’s to see her garden, and you stay for the gastronomic delights that emanate from her kitchen. From being a private paradise open only to friends and family, Sonya’s Garden had evolved into more than just a garden and a restaurant for those “in the know”. Now, Sonya’s secret can be experienced by visiting the spa for any of her signature treatments or staying in any of the charming cottages that make up her Bed and Breakfast.

“The Art of Doing Nothing” was a weekend package being offered by Sonya herself and on this trip I didn’t know what to expect. I’m a self-confessed slacker, but how exactly do you find the art in doing nothing? As it turned out, “nothing” can be a whole lot of different things.

Yoga was one of them. While my idea of relaxation is vegetating on the couch and fondling the remote control, to Sonya, apparently it meant twisting your body into all sorts of different shapes while remembering to watch out for your breathing as you try to find inner peace. The lady of the garden is a firm believer in the organic and the natural, and that includes rest and relaxation methods. It was just my luck (or maybe not) that my jeans and shirt getup didn’t exactly scream out “Relax!” so I had to sit that one out.

For any guy, arranging flowers sounds about as much fun as a trip to the dentist, but I gave it a go, because yes, it was yet another way to kill time. Sonya also led a session on sandwich making and hair conditioning using ingredients you find in the kitchen (egg yolks and olive oil), but as I wanted to stay true to the premise of this entire exercise, these were activities that I took no part in. Seeing a fellow nothin’ doer’s hair get smothered in that egg-oil concoction while munching on those succulent fresh tomato with basil and mayo sandwiches in a fantasy-garden setting was enough for me.

But the ultimate in lethargy and self-indulgence was to come next: if doing nothing really is an art, then getting a luxurious massage must be a grand masterpiece that could rival the Mona Lisa. For someone who’s only contribution to the activity was to lay face down on the bed while my masseuse kneaded and pressed my entire body, I thought I did a pretty good job.

In between all these instances of kicking back and doing, well, “nothing,” I did myself no favors by gorging on the exquisite cuisine Sonya and her crew offers her guests. Whether it was the decadent adobo flakes for breakfast, tempura-with-a-twist and sticky rice for lunch or her signature organic salad with the divine dressing and pasta with three different sauces for dinner, it was a nightmare for dieters but foodie heaven for everyone else. I was a sloth and a glutton – two deadly sins in a span of a few hours.

Although it was advertised as a weekend of indulging in your inner indolent self, the organizers saw it fit to include a workshop on travel writing conducted by eminent writer and former advertising exec Barbara “Tweetums” Gonzalez. It was a pleasure learning new tricks of the trade from the surprisingly delightful and engaging Miss Twee. In between workshops, she even regaled us with her stories of growing up as a great grandniece of our national hero Dr. Jose Rizal, her years in the cutthroat and maddening world of advertising and her personal and amusing views about romance and relationships.

Romance is almost a forgone conclusion during a stay at Sonya’s. What with the heady mix of scented flowers, sweet herbs and pebbled pathways lit by colored lanterns in the silence of the night. But for those who manage to make the trip here without a companion, the hushed silence forces one into solitude one doesn’t realize one needs until it overtakes you. In the night, snuggled against crisp white sheets in each room’s unique and wonderfully eclectic décor, one is sure to wonder when it was that one last experienced true peace and quiet.

I also found time to pay Sonya herself a visit in her home in the middle of her magical garden. Amidst charming and rustic furniture that recalls a peaceful life in the country, and her pooch named Pupay constantly yelping for attention, Sonya explained that the concept of “doing nothing” involved extricating yourself from the madness of the daily grind and the quagmire of routine and immersing yourself in things that might be familiar or exciting and new. She might be whipping treats in her kitchen, pulling out weeds in her front yard or chatting with curious visitors and satisfied customers of her restaurant, but to her, it’s all the same: another day spent living her life and doing exactly what she pleases; and that, she says, is how life should be lived.

All told, it was the template for a perfect weekend. More than the actual, almost surreal experience of getting away from the harsh realities of life in the city, I feel most fortunate at having learned – from Sonya herself – that doing nothing really is an act unto itself; a choice to take on meaningful pursuits to discover the difference between what is essential and what is fluff. Between living and merely existing. Doing nothing is an act of rebellion – to challenge established practices and celebrate life in the process. It’s slowing down and stopping to smell the roses. And really, is there any place better where you can do that than in Sonya’s Garden?

How to Get There
From South Superhighway, exit at Santa Rosa and turn right towards Tagaytay. Upon reaching Aguinaldo highway, turn right toward Nasugbu, Batangas. Go past Tagaytay Rotonda and proceed for 10 kilometers more. After Splendido Golf Course and Sunrise Hill, make a right turn on Buck Estate. Drive for 2 kilometers and watch out for Sonya's on the left side. Use the first gate and drive towards the end of the driveway and make a right towards the parking lot.

Sonya’s Garden
Barangay Buck Estate
Alfonso, Cavite
(63 917) 532 9097 / (63 917) 533 5140
www.sonyasgarden.com

Natural Elixirs at the City's Edge

Often I find the urge to take some quiet time away from my office table, or take my loved ones away for some quality time, but just cannot afford more than a day to do so. And at a certain point, malls become unattractive, and bar hopping gets me intoxicated which the following day’s busy schedule is wont to allow. It’s frustrating really – not being able to move out and take a break. But that was before I found La Mesa Ecopark and Avilon Zoo – mini-vacations found just at the edge of Manila’s frenzy. They are elixirs to rejuvenate a busy me.

La Mesa Ecopark is a five-acre paradise in Fairview Quezon City, with an entrance fee as low as P20 for students. The Picnic Grounds allow for visitors to bring their own food to cook in the grilling stations – this part I enjoy a lot. But there are a number of stores that sell rice and snacks as well, at very affordable rates, for those who would rather not cook. I bring a mat and pillows when I stay in the picnic grounds, and rest under the shade of the trees. This is particularly better when I have a special someone with me; although it sounds cheesy, the ambiance is perfect for a romantic scene in a movie. The sound of the children playing nearby is music with the whistling of the wind. And sometimes, when the winds are cooler than usual, I find myself in a deep afternoon nap.

If you are in the mood for more activity, La Mesa Ecopark provides many options. An the center of the Picnic Grounds is the Fishing Wharf. There are bamboo rods for rent, and some earthworms as bait to catch fish. I tried it once, but failed to attract one single fish near my bait. But some are luckier; they could even cook the fish they catch if they chose to do so. A climb on the Flower Terraces is a better option for me, just beside the Fishing Wharf. There are around 130 steps to be traversed before a portion of the La Mesa Dam could be seen, as well as a perfect view of the Ecopark. The Flower Terraces are a perfect area for joggers, with the scent and sight of a wide variety of flowers a pleasant bonus. And a little further on, one can take a leisurely walk through the Orchidarium and the Butterfly Trail.

The Fitness Trail is also available for people who prefer a challenging work-out. There are obstacles courses to pass through, steel rods to jump over on, and ropes to climb. The trail is too difficult for me alone, but I could tell those groups of young professionals and students I have watched go through the obstacle courses enjoyed it a lot. Reservations could be made for companies and organizations that want to make use of the facility.

My favorite part of the Ecopark is the wall climbing and rappelling facility, very near the main entrance of the park. Climbing outdoors is a thrilling experience; it’s reaching for the skies one pull at a time. And for a climb that costs only P50, and rappelling only P100, it’s worth every peso spent. When I go to the Ecopark with my friends, we spend the afternoon in the Paintball Field, and as expected, we soil our shirts so grandly that it is a smart idea to keep the used shirts handy for the next visit to the field. The sense of adventure is very much alive – that feeling that everyday stress suppresses.

Before leaving, I make it standard practice to take a quick boat ride in the Lagoon and Pavillion. Once I get into the middle of the Lagoon, I stop to feed the geese. They would follow wherever the boat would lead them, as long as I have crumbs to feed them. The boat ride costs P100 for half an hour, and the crumbs P20.

Another place to visit is the Avilon Zoo, located at Barrio San Isidro, Rodriguez (formerly Montalban), Rizal. The largest zoo in the Philippines to date, Avilon Zoo is a 7.5 hectare-land of animals that live in their replicated natural environment. The zoo is different from the others in Manila because visitors are encouraged to interact with the animals, like having a walk through the park. It is accredited by the Department of Tourism, and the Department of Environment and Natural Resources.

Extreme care is given to the animals, and maintenance is of high quality. Unlike other zoos I’ve visited, there is an absence of noxious smells and animal waste. The animals are taken care by a knowledgeable team of keepers, curators and supervisors. There are also tour guides that make the visit a true learning experience. I found myself walking through a safari that allowed my child-like curiosity to surge.

I remember seeing the crocodiles being fed in the afternoon. I was able to feed the emus (huge birds that look almost like ostriches) myself, separated from them only by a picket fence. I recall seeing the big cat with a titanium tooth, and a 100-year old Galapagos tortoise, which is the biggest among the turtles. I took photos of my companions with the snakes, hawk, owl, and some primates, although sadly, not a photo was taken with me in it. Nonetheless, I enjoyed every second of the trip to Avilon Zoo.

Make sure to bring an extra shirt or two on this environmental day trip as the heat can get to the best of us. Honestly though, the heat is something I do not mind, not after a week of sitting at my desk in my air-conditioned office. And even though my legs tire from a whole day of walking, I do not feel drained at all. There is magic in flora and fauna. Being close to nature, even for a day, is the elixir for stress that no vitamins or energy drink could give.

Travel Notes
La Mesa Ecopark
(02) 430-4051/ (02) 430-5207/ (02) 430-5207 (telefax)
www.lamesaecopark.com/

Avilon Zoo
Bo. San Isidro, Rodriguez, Rizal
Tel. Nos.: (632) 941-8393 * (632) 948-9866 (63917) 899-5126
Fax: (632) 941-8530 * Email: info@avilonzoo.com.ph
Entrance Fee: Php208.00 or $5.00/person

Culion: A Paradise Recovered

I stand on an old Spanish fort, a remnant of Culion’s years as a colonial stronghold. Below, in the coral-fringed shallows of the island’s rugged shore, children play in the sunshine, splashing and racing each other through the cool, clear water. Further out in Coron Bay, small outrigger fishing boats come and go, their trails crisscrossing the flat sea.

On a steep hillside overlooking the town, a statue of Christ stands next to a giant replica of the seal of the Department of Health. In days gone by, this would have served as a warning to all those approaching the island and today it is the only visible reminder that Culion was once a leper colony.

Culion Island is part of the picturesque Calamianes chain of Northern Palawan. It lies south of Coron - a port which is fast becoming a lively hang-out for travellers - and from there can be easily reached either by private boat or on a regular public ferry.

Leprosy, or Hansen’s disease as it is also called, is no longer a public health problem on Culion and for decades the island has been open to immigrants and visitors alike. There are two main guesthouses in the town, both within walking distance of the fort, the Spanish church and a newly renovated museum documenting the fascinating history of the leper colony.

“Leprosy has been misunderstood since biblical times. Nowadays many people do not know that it still exists, let alone that it is a curable disease,” says Arturo Cunanan, head of the Culion Leprosy Control and Rehabilitation Program. Cunanan was responsible for finally eliminating leprosy from Culion in 1998 using MDT, the multi-drug therapy recommended by the World Health Organisation. “It is hard for people to change their outlook on a disease that has been among the most feared and stigmatised in human history - but gradually we are succeeding,” he adds.

During the American administration of the Philippines at the beginning of the twentieth century, it was estimated that there were around 3,500 to 4,000 lepers in the country. With no cure available, the authorities had a serious health problem on their hands. They decided that the only way to prevent the disease from spreading would be to segregate those afflicted from the rest of society, as had been done at the Molokai leper colony in Hawaii. Culion Island was singled out as a suitably remote location and by 1906 the first batch of 370 patients arrived at the newly constructed leper colony.

During the early years, the patients of Culion had no hope of a cure or of ever returning to their families and the island soon became known as “the land of the living dead”. Lepers from all over the Philippines, including some Chinese and Americans, were brought to Culion by force. “In those days nobody thought of human rights,” says Cunanan, “separation and isolation were seen as a public health measures - to save the healthy from the sick.” By 1931, the island had over 16,000 patients and was the world’s largest leper colony.

A walk around the museum gives you an idea of what life might have been like during those years. Refurbished for the centennial anniversary of the leper colony in 2006, it is well laid out and packed full of books on leprosy and information about different treatments. It also contains poignant mementos of everyday life such as personal letters and coins that were minted for the sole use of the patients.

In the early years, life on the island was strictly controlled. Until 1933, marriage between Culion’s patients was subject to intermittent restrictions. The authorities wanted to prevent close relationships and limit the number of children born on the island. Because it was still relatively unknown how the disease spread, children were taken from their mothers immediately after they were born and brought up separately in the nursery.

Although he was never a patient, Nestor Lisboas has lived most of his life in Culion. His father, a postmaster from Bagio, was one of the first staff to be transferred to the island in 1906. He remembers how, as a child, he was scared of leprosy. “I had friends my own age who were patients but my parents forbid me to play with them,” he explains. “I felt so sorry for them - once they arrived here, it was impossible to escape and even as young children, they were never visited by their relatives.”

Hilarion Guia was one such child. Born in Batangas in 1942, he contracted leprosy as a young boy and was shunned by his local community. An orphan being raised by his grandmother, he was just eight years old when he was sent to Culion. “It was an unhappy point in my life,” recalls Guia, “I remember holding on tightly to my grandmother while my brother pulled me away. When I arrived in Culion I was horrified to see patients with advanced cases of leprosy and I dreaded what would become of me.” However, enrolling in school – a right that he had been denied in Batangas – gave Guia a sense of purpose and he became content that, at least in Culion, he was no longer a social outcast.

Guia, now known affectionately as ‘Sir Guia’ throughout Culion, went on to become a community leader. During the 1980s, seeing no reason for Culion to continue under the jurisdiction of the Department of Health, he lobbied the government to convert the island into a normal municipality. “I saw the young generation growing up healthily but deprived of political rights,” he explains. “I wanted to give them the right to vote.” In 1992 the Municipality of Culion was created and three years later the people participated for the first time in local elections - Guia was voted in as the first mayor.

The positive effect of Culion leper colony is felt not just in the Philippines but also globally. “The island became a Mecca for doctors of leprosy and a model for how the disease should be treated. Now we inspire communities around the world, such as in India, where it is still a considerable problem,” explains Guia.

Thanks to Doctor Cunanan’s strict elimination program using MDT, the children of Culion are now growing up in a healthy environment. But the early days of the program were a struggle - “ a patient once asked me, ‘what are the use of your medicines – will my eyes see again?’ I had to convince him that it was for the sake of his grandchildren that he should take the drugs to rid himself of leprosy,” recounts Cunanan.

The lives and dreams that were once shattered by leprosy can never be restored but today there are new futures in the making. As I wander around the town, it seems to be filled with life – preparations are under way for fiesta day (celebrated every December 8) and the streets are decorated with colourful flags. Music and laughter fill the air as young children practice energetic singing and dance routines outside their houses. I visit the fort in the early evening and hear more music nearby – high school students dressed in traditional costume are performing Filipino folk dances in the half-light. “Before we never thought about the future,” recalls Cresenciano Rosello, a former patient and head-teacher. “Now things are very different and we are filled with hope and ambition for the next generation.”

The folk dancing is a reminder that there are many different sides to Culion – the island’s history stretches back hundreds of years before the leper colony. The original inhabitants of Culion were Tagbanuas, indigenous people with a unique culture. Having been relocated when the leper colony was established, they can still be found in Barangay Carabao in the southernmost part of the island. Spanish missionaries arrived as early as 1622 and, in 1740, the fort was built in defence against fierce attacks from Moros. Much of the fort still stands, as do parts of its accompanying church, which was rebuilt by Jesuits in 1933 as La Inmaculada Concepcion Church.

Culion has a rich natural environment and is home to rare animals such as Philippine mouse deer (the world’s smallest hoofed animal), Palawan hornbills, anteaters and Calamian deer. In the waters surrounding the island, mangroves, seagrasses and corals support a diverse range of marine life – from colourful butterfly fish to elusive dugongs. Many residents are hoping that the island will soon develop into an eco-destination for travellers seeking close encounters with nature.

The island is well positioned for tourism – Japanese shipwrecks in the nearby waters of Coron Bay have long attracted scuba divers from all around the world. Spectacular diving opportunities, beaches and scattered islands have put the Calamianes on the map as one of the Philippines’ prime destinations. So, with developments on the way, Culion will surely receive its share of visitors.

Culion has come a long way over the last century and many are now calling it a rediscovered paradise. Certainly, in stark contrast to the sufferings of years gone by, it is now a place filled with optimism. As I sit on the balcony of my guesthouse on a Sunday morning, life goes on around me – people make their way up to the church, a girl rides by on a red bicycle and a fisherman rests by his paddle-boat, waiting to sell his catch to passers by. Perhaps it is just me but there seems to be a contentment among the people of Culion, which I have not noticed elsewhere. It may be that their past has given them a particular appreciation of the lives that they now lead.

Travel Notes
Asian Spirit flies to Busuanga five times a week every Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Travel time is about an hour. From the Busuanga Airport, tourists will take a one-hour jeepney ride to Coron Pier followed by a one–hour boat ride to Culion.

For more information about the island of Culion, you can visit the website: www.culion.net

Frontier Territory

It was a hot humid morning when I arrived in Virac, the capital of Catanduanes. The weather was a far cry from what it was two weeks before when a typhoon lashed across the country. Catanduanes has always been known as an island that is relentlessly hit by typhoons. Hence, some call it “The Land of the Howling Winds.” Nonetheless, it has made the people resilient. Their strong adherence to the Catholic faith has also made them stronger as a people. There are Catholic chapels almost on every block which made me wonder whether they are ever filled up on any given Sunday. Formerly a sub-province of Albay, Catanduanes is said to have been discovered by Bornean datus (tribal chieftains) who came all the way from Panay in the 13th century. Perhaps this was the reason why one of the islands on the east coast had been called by the same name. I came to Catanduanes with the intention of exploring the underwater frontier of this island paradise.

Catanduanes came from the word Catanduan which means “where tando trees abound”. I don’t know exactly what tando trees look like but I do know that the province abounds with abaca trees and is in fact one of the country’s largest producers of unprocessed abaca fibers. Most households are engaged in the collecting, stripping and drying of abaca. This plant that resembles a banana tree grows wild on the island.

My drive from Virac to Panganiban, the jump-off point to Panay island, was quite interesting since the landscape and seascape proved to be quite stunning. My first stop was the town of Bato where a centuries-old coralline church stood. Its construction started in 1830 and was only finished after 53 years. Despite numerous typhoons and the ravages of time, it has managed to remain well-preserved. From Bato, I took the eastern coastal road that passes through Puraran, the torch bearer of Catanduanes as far as tourism is concerned. It was this beach that placed the province on the surfing map of the world. Puraran is considered to be one of the meanest surfing sites and only seasoned surfers can safely ride the waves here. It is known for “Majestic” waves with long breathtaking barrels. When I got there, however, a different Puraran presented itself to me. The sea was flat and the long stretch of beach was empty. Locals said that the beach is normally filled up with surfers from September to February when the northeast monsoon is blowing, creating swells that even international surfers seek.

The weather may not be ideal for surfing but I came here to dive, and I wasn’t disappointed. I was thankful that the weather was ideal for what I wanted to do. Further north of Puraran is an endless chain of coves, bays and inlets. I lost count as I was distracted by the mini-rice terraces that were carved from the slopes of the hills and the small valleys. After five hours of travel, I finally got to Payo, a community that is now officially known as Panganiban. Here is where my host family resides. A diver friend, Dr. Rene Reyes, is a cardiologist who grew up here. He boasts of stunning reef areas, extensive wet lands and miles and miles of coastline that had been shaped and re-shaped by nature. It was upon his invitation that I came with my diving gear to discover what very few people have actually seen.

Our first dive was in a place called Dayhagan where a shallow reef crest dropped abruptly to 60 feet. Massive foliose corals decorate the reef and they resemble lettuce and cabbages. Tiny reef fishes darted in and out of the corals and swam as one entity. From the edge, I saw several rock pinnacles jutting up from the sandy bottom. The 100-feet visibility provided a pleasant swim from rock to rock. Crevices, tunnels and caves characterize the massive underwater rock formations. Swimming through them provided some thrilling moments. Over at a place called Loran, the stunning walls and drop-offs again amazed me as we discovered numerous caves and overhangs. Hundreds of glass fishes hover in the safety of these tunnels that I practically parted the schools as I swam through them. This site was named such because of the Loran station that was built by the Americans in 1953 and was operated by them until 1971 when it was turned over to the Philippine government. The long stretch of white sandy beach and the coralline islands and magnificent underwater terrain must have fascinated the Americans way back then. Locals told stories of sea planes that used to land here and the times when they used to watch foreign movies in the Loran station. The Americans stationed here must have felt so lucky to have been assigned to live in paradise.

My exploratory trip to Panay was a journey of discovery. It was a sojourne filled with exciting prospects for more adventure trips in the future.

Asian Spirit flies from Manila to Virac, Catanduanes every Monday, Wednesday Friday and Sunday. Departure from Manila is at 9:10 AM. Travel time is 55 minutes.

Valley of Tranquility

Needing a break from work and time to sort out some problems, I decided to come alone to Bangued, the capital of Abra. I have never known nights like the nights I spent in the beautiful tranquil surroundings of Pamora Farm in Pidigan, Abra. Often glossed over in tourist brochures and guides on Northern Philippines, the province of Abra holds a storehouse of simple pleasures for the traveler who wants to imbibe nature and culture in refreshing doses. I have never seen anything featured about this underrated province up north except for the corny soft drink commercial on television where four traveling teeners passed through a dark eerie-looking tunnel. The tunnel used in that commercial is called the Tangadan Tunnel, one of the official landmarks of Abra Province.

My interest was caught when I came across a brochure promoting agri-tourism where Garreta, a town 15 minutes by public transportation from the provincial capital Bangued, boasts of a farm resort called Pamora Farm that raises French native chicken of the Sasso breed. This variety can grow to as big as one’s thanksgiving turkey.

It turns out that Pamora Farm, a new agri-eco tourism establishment, has been raising free-range chicken in Abra since the year 2000. Pamora Farm’s operation is fully integrated from raising, growing, and dressing to packaging these free-range chickens, ready for distribution. In Metro Manila, one can find these chickens being sold in specialty shops like Santi’s Delicatessen, Terry’s Selections, and Metro Market! Market! at the Fort. The farm also produces free-range chicken products like chicken liver pate, chicken gizzard pate and free-range chicken eggs.

I found my trip to this farm’s guesthouse interesting since I realized that one need not spend much to go to provence or other French countryside places to have a taste of French hospitality. For me it was a great discovery among my many trips around the country this year. Staying at the farm’s guesthouses may be limited, but one gets the feeling of French-Filipino complimentary fusion in terms of cuisine and hospitality. As of this writing, Pamora Farm has been recognized by the Department of Tourism as an agri-eco tourism destination.

Turning off from the Manila North Road at the junction of Narvacan in Ilocos Sur, one enters Abra through the Tangadan Tunnel and is welcomed by the provincial marker, “Ti Kabalyo” (the horse). Abra, for centuries, has been isolated from the rest of the world by the towering mountain ranges of the Cordilleras. Their natives, called Tinguians, boast of a rich cultural heritage which colorfully blends with Ilocano customs and traditions. The scenic spots all over the province are tailored for the eyes to behold, for indeed, these vistas are better seen because words fail to describe them adequately.

Abra, according to popular theory, was derived from the Spanish word “abrir” which means, to open. Spanish expeditionary forces found it difficult to penetrate Abra, considering that the only way to the interior is to sail in skiffs - a small sailboat with outriggers on the deep, swift flowing Abra River. During the Spanish time, Abra was part of Ilocos Sur, until it became a politico-military province in October, 1846. In 1917, an executive act by American Governor Franics Burton Harrison established Abra as an independent province. Of late, the province has rejected joining the Cordillera Autonomous Region (CAR) pointing out that the province belongs to Ilocandia historically, geographically, ethnologically and politically.

The province is home to several illustrious heroes including Gabriela Silang and statesman and former Speaker of the House, Don Quintin Paredes. In the town of Tayum, the well-preserved house of Gabriela Silang is worth a visit. It was here that the revolution of 1763 against Spanish domination was organized. Gabriela, who had Tingguian blood, carried on the revolt when her husband, Diego Silang, was shot in neighboring Vigan. The couple fought the Spaniards to the last breath of their lives together with the thousands of their followers. Another attraction is the residence of the former Philippine Ambassador to Sri Lanka, Ambassador Rosario Carino, where his vast art, Chinese porcelaine and rare book collection are kept. In nearby Mary Barbero Park, centuries-old acacia trees, natural springs and manmade waterfalls await visitors and travelers.

In Bangued, the capital town, one cannot help but notice the impressive façade of the San Lorenzo Ruiz Church which was built in 1722. The town has a few dining establishments offering authentic Ilocano dishes with distinct Abrenian provincial taste like pinakbet, dinengdeng, dinaldalem (minced pork and its internal organs) and bagnet. One can also order Igat, a fresh water eel, caught in the Abra river, cooked as paksiw or adobo. It is also sometimes dried and served with fresh slices of tomatoes with bagoong (shrimp paste).

Other exotic local fare include pacpacu, a local vegetable boiled and also served with tomatoes and bagoong (shrimp paste), Alingo, meat of wild boar or deer, boiled in lots of tomatoes, onions and ginger mixed with vegetables upo and patola. This meat has been scarce lately because of the ban in hunting these wild animals in the forests. There is also Lodong, a fresh water fish caught in the Abra River especially this time of the year, and cooked deep fried or sarciado (rich stew of tomatoes, garlic, ginger and onion). Of late, locals and visitors have been trooping to Pamora Farm for a taste of their free-range chicken cooked as Adobo, apritada, relleno (stuffed chicken) or simply as Tinola or Sinampalukan and served with steaming upland rice.

For souvenirs, get yourself the native weaves of Barangay Namarabar in Penarubia town. The hand-woven cloth produced in this sitio uses organic dye to color their textiles. For the ladies, take home with you their native handcrafted jewelries and ethnic furniture using wood from the province’s virgin forests.

How to get there: Take a scenic drive down to Ilocos Sur passing through Sta. Maria and then turning at the boundary of Abra. You can also take the Partas Bus either at their EDSA Pasay Station or Aurora Blvd Station in Cubao. Buses leave every hour but it is best to take the late night trip which gets you to Bangued in the early morning the following day. One way fare is Php580 with stops in Vigan or La Union.

Pamora Farms: Km. 396 Garreta, Pidigan Abra
Mobile Number: (0917) 537 5639
Email: tina@pamorafarm.com
Website: www.pamorafarm.com

Romance on a Moonlit Beach

I was sipping my tropical fruit drink in the main dining hall of El Nido resort. Although the flight had been short, the boat ride equally so, there was just something about sitting down in the shade of a resort that should be relaxing. My wife had planned the trip for quite sometime, always to be postponed for some other time as we found out of country destinations we wanted to go to. This time however, because it was her birthday, we didn’t want to fuss about trying to see the must-see sight or argue with shady taxi drivers or worry about how best to avoid McDonalds for out next meal. Nope. This time, we wanted to lie back and relax.

Despite the setting however, I was far from relaxed. I hadn’t planned anything special for my wife’s birthday and given the grief I give her about the importance of meaningful (translated- expensive) gifts when my birthday comes around, I was getting hot under my imaginary collar. Even if we were in the most ideal location for a birthday, she had planned it and so I couldn’t take credit for it. So I sat down and sipped my welcome drink in silence, half listening to the briefing being given by the staff.

Get Out and Stay Out
Unlike most resorts in the Philippines, El Nido has a winning formula. From the moment you arrive, the staff will do their utmost to kick you out of your room so you can enjoy the great surroundings of the islands. Even before you set foot on the resort, at the airport, activity personnel will sit down with you and go through a checklist of activities you can do. Lagoon exploring, snorkeling, island hopping, hiking, bird watching and the list goes on. If it’s all too much to take at the airport, you can always arrange for things on the fly when you are at the resort.

The result is great. Instead of being stuck on a sandy beach slowly getting burnt alive by the sun, guests get to go outside the resort for genuinely fun activities. Palawan is generally still pristine and the surrounding areas around El Nido demonstrate this to the fullest. Snorkeling is not some sad exercise of exploring a sandy bottom for hours on end. Instead, fish of all sorts are easily sighted and in some areas friendly enough to feed (the staff provide you with bread). In their Minoloc resort, just off the pier, a school of jack fish the size of flattened watermelons are fed regularly by guests with a pale of squid left on the pier every morning. Swimming with them is another great experience.

Despite all the great scenery, the great activities and the obvious glee my wife was experiencing and I was emulating, my dilemma had not been solved. What could I spring on my wife to make her birthday special? Time was running out.

Salvation
We were at the mouth of the big lagoon waiting for a smaller boat to bring us in. The big boat we were on would hit the bottom of the big lagoon and so while waiting some of the kids on our boat, bored with the wait, were pondering if they should go for a swim. Not wanting to think about my dilemma any further, I stripped down to my swimming trunks and took the biggest, tallest dive into the deep blue sea. The kids followed suit and before long, the adults tried to outdo the antics of the children.

It must have been the cool water or the pressure of the deep dive I did off the bow of the boat but I remembered what would become my saving grace, something that was said during the briefing just a day before. “We even have VIPs that we take to a secluded beach for a private dinner”, I hazily remember one of the staff saying something to that effect. VIPs? How much more VIP can my wife get, in my life anyway? I swim frantically to the boat to talk to the staff while my wife was distracted by the antics of the children. I talk to one of the staff, hoping it was not too late to arrange my VIP dinner. My frantic pleas came across as… frantic and the ever-ready-to-please staff reassured me that they will check once we get back to the resort.

Walking back to my wife, she asked what that was all about, “nothing sweetie just asking if they have any VIPs on the resort right now”.

Later that evening, while we were having dinner, one of the resort staff pulled me cryptically aside. “Sir, we can arrange your dinner for you. Can we discuss your menu?” And so for the next few minutes I go through their menu and order everything from soup, salad, an exquisite fresh fish for the main meal and something sweet to finish it off. “Very good sir, please be at the pier by 7:00PM tomorrow evening”. With that sorted, I could finally enjoy the rest of the trip.

No Monkeys on Monkey Beach
The next day was another fun filled day of activities, diving for me in the morning; meet up with the wife at another beach for the buffet lunch and then some more exploring in the afternoon. As evening pulled up I couldn’t keep it a secret much more, we did need to take boat to our secret dinner spot and somehow explaining to my wife that this was a shortcut to the main dining hall would not cut. “Really, we’re having dinner somewhere special” she said with her eyes sparkling. She was all dressed up, more than the previous evenings, in a flowing sun dress, and despite the time of day, she still seemed glowing. Somehow she had found out about the dinner but still put on a surprised look.

We get on our boat and travel in almost total darkness to our destination, the isolated Monkey Beach -- Isolated except for our personal chef and our personal waiter. Surprisingly, no monkeys were to be found on Monkey Beach. The food was prepared on a burner on the beach and so everything was prepared and cooked on the spot, no packed food for this VIP. We wine, we dine, the staff giving us ample privacy. After dinner we take a walk on the sandbar that reaches out from the beach to the middle of the channel. Moonlight illuminates the way. Before long, we reach the end of the sand bar, it is almost in the middle of the water and looking back at our table it seems so far away. I reach out for my wife’s hand . . . . I grip it firmly . . . and we run back at a full clip, afraid that the darkness will swallow us up.

Travel Notes

El Nido Miniloc Island Resort
El Nido Lagen Island Resort
(63-2) 894 5644
www.elnidoresorts.com

How to Get There:
Island Transvoyager, Inc (ITI) and SeAir are two airline companies that have regular routes to El Nido. ITI prioritizes customers traveling to El Nido Resorts.

Travel time is one hour and 30 minutes.

Island Transvoyager, Inc.
(63-2) 851 5674
www.islandtransvoyager.com

SeAir
(63-2) 849 0100

Land of a Thousand Wonders

After about an hour’s flight from Manila, I finally set foot for the first time on one of the Philippines’ premiere destinations. Being a part of the travel industry, I have covered quite a number of the country’s 7,107 islands, but for some reason, the province of Bohol is one place that I have saved for something special.

In this particular case, the ‘something special’ is Eskaya Beach Resort. The decision to go to this resort is simply a temptation of luxury which I couldn’t resist. Located in the well-known island of Panglao, the Eskaya Beach Resort offers its guests with posh accommodations in each of their 15 villas or balais. Eskaya, which is the name of the cultural tribe of Bohol, is designed by renowned architect Francisco Manosa. Holding true to its name, the resort exudes a native feel and everywhere you turn, you see something that has a true Filipino touch. The balais have bamboo roofs and modern interiors; and every single one has its own whirlpool, outdoor bathroom, an Ipod dock, DVD player and first-class amenities. To add a genuine tropical feel to the native surroundings, most of the villas have their own pool and a deck overlooking the vast Bohol Sea. Guests can also enjoy a swim at Eskaya’s private beach.

The resort also has two special villas that have even more impressive elements. On top of the standard features of each balai, such as the private pool and whirlpool, Balai Banai has two bedrooms, a family room, a dining room and a balcony facing the sea. Since this is a family villa, an X-Box is also provided in the living room to keep the kids busy. An overnight stay at Balai Banai costs USD 2,200 during peak season. The resort’s best villa, Balai Datu, has similar facilities such as Balai Banai, but because it is a Spa Presidential Villa that comes with an infinity pool, it costs a whole lot more. At USD 4,000 per night during peak season, this could easily be the most expensive type of accommodation in the country today, but as I lazily lounged at our pool deck, taking in the wonderful view in front of me, I thought to myself that with all its unique features and amenities, that the Eskaya Beach Resort, which is spread over 16 hectares of property, is really perfect for travelers who are willing to indulge in the best island experience, and honeymooners who want to enjoy a tropical vacation without ever having to leave their villa.

Dolphins!
The island of Bohol offers a host of activities and attractions for all its visitors to enjoy. My companions and I had an early start on our second day and we were up and about well before the first rays of sunshine to go to nearby Pamilacan Island for some dolphin and whale watching. It took us about an hour to get to the island but we were told by our guide that since the dolphins were in their natural habitat, it cannot be guaranteed that we will immediately see them in their expected location in the waters so we spent a few minutes more as our boat proceeded to an area behind the island. Searching for dolphins in the endless open sea is not an easy task, but our spotter is highly familiar with this territory so we had to do is look to where he is pointing and soon, a number of fins moving in synchrony came into view.

This is not my first dolphin encounter, but on this tour, as with every other dolphin watching tour I went on, I couldn’t help moving around the boat, rushing to where the playful creatures can best be seen. I am shed of all my worldly cares and feel a certain kind of high whenever they appear, moving together in fluid motion and swimming close to our boat as if knowing that they are the stars of the show. It’s hard to imagine that these friendly mammals were once hunted in these same waters for their meat.

The waters of Bohol is one of the richest in marine resources in the Philippines and the Pamilacan Island locals once made their living catching fish to sell and hunting for dolphins – and even sharks-- whose meat can be sold for much more. In efforts to preserve the bounty and marine diversity of the Bohol Sea, and in seeing that Pamilacan Island can be developed as a potential tourism site, the local government offered the hunters an alternative livelihood program – to work as guides and spotters during tours. Today, with their knowledge of marine life, these people who used take the lives of the dolphins now serve as stewards of the sea. And as I took a final glimpse of them moving gracefully in the waters as our boat made its way to Baclayon, I thanked God that the people of Bohol were able to save the dolphins and their other marine resources just in time.

A Step Back in Time
The excitement of the dolphin watching tour led me and my companions to exhaustion and being the sleep-deprived tourists that we were, we managed to catch a few minutes of sleep on the boat. Like Panglao, Baclayon is located also about an hour away from Pamilacan and upon waking up, an old structure that came into view stood as if welcoming each guest to Bohol.

This structure, which I later learned was the well-known Baclayon Church, is where our Bohol Countryside Tour began. Built in 1595 and finished in 1717, the Baclayon Church is the second oldest church in the Philippines (the oldest one being the San Agustin Church in Intramuros, Manila). The church, which was built from coral stones cut in squares and cemented together by up to a million egg whites, is the best preserved church in country, with most of its structure still intact. The museum, which used to be a convent, houses several religious artifacts dating back to the 1600s. Music sheets made from carabao skin and baptismal and marriage records from the Spanish era can also be found here, all preserved and completely intact.
After the Baclayon Church tour, we proceeded to the Clarin Ancestral House. This 168-year-old house which was declared a heritage site by the National Historical Institute is now a museum with a display of artifacts that tell stories of how the political family of the Clarins and other well-known people lived during the 1800s. From heavy doors with wooden latches to secret passageways, the ancestral house leads visitors to an interesting trip to the past.

After a tour of the museum, guests can enjoy some native Boholano delicacies such as torta Loayan (local omelet) and putomaya (sticky rice boiled in coconut milk) at Café Olegario which can be found at the ground floor of the house. We wanted to stay for some snacks, but we had to head to the Loboc River for the lunch cruise.

Scenic Cruise
The town of Loboc is known for the floating restaurants that cruise through the scenic and winding Loboc River. As we enjoyed the buffet lunch while being serenaded with both Filipino and English songs, the floating restaurant made its way through the waters. Not all boats go in the same direction, though. Some cruises lead to Busay Falls, while others take the opposite direction where Ati Tribe members can be found. Ours took us to the Ati Tribe. The show began as soon as we neared the place where they were waiting. With music being played from drums and other instruments made from bamboo, the Ati children rushed to showcase their different skills and talents such as shooting targets and jumping through a ring of fire.

After the 45-minute cruise, we headed to the town of Carmen to see the famous chocolate hills.

A Thousand Kisses
1,268 hills shaped like Hershey kisses leave quite a lot of people in wonder. No other place on earth has this kind of natural formation. The most number of hills can be found in Carmen. This is where an observation deck was constructed to give tourists a better view of the perfectly-shaped limestone hills. Hailed as a National Geological Monument, the chocolate hills is also vastly being promoted by the people of Bohol so others may vote for it to be declared as one of the Seven New Wonders of Nature.
Sheer Pleasure

As we went back to the resort completely happy but with aching muscles, we looked forward to our treatment at the Handuraw Spa. Illuminated by soft lights at night, the spa within the Eskaya Resort uses skillful renditions of Filipino and Asian spa treatments and rich spa rituals using a combination of music and touch therapy. The Kadaet Massage we had lasted for an hour and thirty minutes and I savored every practiced stroke to ease my tired body.

We woke up to the first light of day to pack our things, take a final stroll around the Eskaya property and spend some time by the main infinity pool, our favorite place at the resort. Fronting the Bohol Sea, this infinity pool is the first thing that gives every guest a clue of the luxury that awaits them. I sat there, watching as the waters of the pool seem to stretch out to meet the sea, and I got to thinking that the weekend we had was not enough to cover all the attractions of Bohol-- there are too many interesting places, too many stories to uncover, too many sites to behold -- but it was definitely enough to give me memories which will never make me forget the first time I set foot in this land of a thousand wonders.

Travel Notes
The Eskaya Beach Resort, as well as other resorts in the island, can easily arrange whatever type of tour you desire, but if you have time to plan ahead, you may also inquire with several tour operators and find out which ones offer the best rate.

Some agencies offer separate packages for Dolphin Watching and Countryside tours, but the Pamilacan Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours offers a combined package that costs Php10,200 for three people.

Pamilacan Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours
(63 38) 540 9279 / (63 919) 730 6108
www.dolphinwhalewatch.homestead.com

Where to stay
Eskaya Beach Resort
Barangay Tawala, Panglao Island
(63 2) 727 4927 / 744 6417
www.eskayabeach.com

Where to eat
The Bohol Bee Farm has a restaurant that serves superb breads, pastries, snacks and meals that are both healthy and appetizing.
Bohol Bee Farm
Dauis, Panglao Island
(63 38) 502 2288
www.boholbeefarm.com

How to get there
Domestic carriers have daily flights from Manila to Tagbilaran, the capital city of Bohol. For bookings and inquiries, you may call Philippine Airlines at (63 2) 855 8888 or Cebu Pacific at (63 2) 702 0888.

The Fascinating Lights Decor at Policarpio Street

If you've spent the winter months in a country with four seasons, you will appreciate the splendor of light in darkness – it is happiness in sight.

If you find yourself transplanted to the Asian tropics for the Christmas season, you may desire a colder climate simply because clumps of snow adorning the landscape is what you've grown to expect to see at this time of year.

Or, you may embrace the warmer weather and rejoice on the authentic Christmas cheer that is pervading urban Manila right now... Well, good news: it is something we've come to expect every year, and something other Asian countries have never been able to rival.

Welcome to Christmas in the Philippines! One of the perks in celebrating here is that you have access to a visual feast of what some say is the world's best display of Christmas decorations. Every house will at least have a parol (the star of Christmas) hung in their porch and also a tree of sorts adorning their living rooms. I need not go into further details about Filipino creativity and craftsmanship. I would rather let the place personally warm and cheer you, like how it does me.

As a first time visitor to the Philippines, your eyes won't be able to miss the display of Christmas lights that greet you as soon as you arrive at the international airport. If your route into the city takes you along Ayala Avenue (the heart of the business district of Makati City), then you will be able to behold Christmas lights lining the street from end to end: sequins coiling around the acacia trees, lanterns dangling, and nativity scenes adorning the tops and entryways of corporate buildings. Yes, the entire avenue is aglow.

Now, I am not the only one who is going to tell you about Policarpio Street. A visit to Barangay New Zañiga in Mandaluyong city from late November onwards will put twinkles in your eyes (literally).

Remember the time...
Each year, I remember looking forward to the transformation of Policarpio into a glittering wonderland. Whole houses are literally wrapped in Christmas lights. Some rooftops have Santa Claus caught in the act with his elves and reindeer sending joy down imaginary chimneys. Tasteful, animated Christmas decorations sparkle in the facades of the beautiful homes.

One house has a moving Belen or the nativity scene telling the story of baby Jesus who was born in a manger surrounded by Mary and Joseph and the sheperds.

Sighting Santa
One of the most popular homes to view is the mansion of the Dalisay family which is blanketed with Christmas lights. Their home provides a beautiful backdrop where you'll want to have a group photo to remember the house's breathtaking light display. It is said that the visual display on Policarpio street is comparable to the Zigong Lantern Festival in China and the London Lantern Boulevard in England.

The Dalisay mansion is also called the “House of Santa” and a place where the young at heart can marvel at the various displays of Santa Claus statues of all shades and sizes.

Garage treasures and a food bazaar
This neighborhood knows just what's needed after a dazzling experience of lights and displays: food and shopping! Take a break and check out the bazaars and food stalls offering Filipino delicacies conveniently lining the entire stretch of Policarpio Street, just for visitors. The garage sales take place during the evenings at several houses on Policarpio Street – you can find all kinds of treasures for sale, including home and kitchen items, toys and children's clothes.

“The Christmas Street” was conceptualized in 1995 by the Residents Association of Policarpio to honor the Filipino Christmas tradition of decorating their homes to usher in the Christmas season and foster holiday cheer. As the years passed, the families participating in this endeavor decided to share and spread the Christmas cheer and invited the public to view their homes. Each year, more and more people come to know of this beautiful street that I dare say, sparks the spirit of Christmas into the hardened of hearts. The Christmas Street is open for viewing from six in the evening until midnight for the duration of the holiday season.

Getting There
You may hire a cab to take you to this famous spot in Mandaluyong. From EDSA (main highway), take Boni Avenue. Policarpio Street is after the Mandaluyong City Hall. Street posts in Mandaluyong especially along Boni Avenue, are labeled with the big green signs to help show you the way. Or, you can take the F. Ortigas or P. Cruz Street. From there, you can ask around and people will be happy to point you in the right direction.

Bawai's Tagaytay

Located off the beaten track in Tagaytay is a small family run restaurant serving authentic Vietnamese food. Bawai's, Vietnamese for 'grandmother', was originally set up to cater to My Duyen's family gatherings.

Affectionately called Bawai by her grandchildren and Yong by her friends, My Duyen moved to the Philippines from Saigon in the 1970's with her Filipino husband, Virgilio. Bawai's Tagaytay home slowly developed into a casual, comfortable private restaurant with a menu featuring home-cooked traditional delicacies, well suited to the Filipino palate. Open only from Friday to Sunday and by reservation only, Bawai's offers a charming respite from the hustle and bustle of Manila, and is a serene sanctuary within Tagaytay's growing neighborhood of gour-met restau-rants. Surrounded by pineapple plantations, Bawai's homely design and friendly service make for an enjoyable overall dining experience.

Must tries are the house specialty cha gio, fried pork and shrimp spring rolls with a zesty dipping sauce (Php 120 for 5 pcs.), and the goi cuon or fresh summer rolls (Php 125 for 3 large pieces). Vegetarian versions of both rolls are available upon request. Bawai's also serves large bowls of traditional pho noodle soups – perfect for the cooler weather in Tagaytay. Try the Pho Bo, meat ball & sliced beef noodle soup, a steaming treat that can be shared. Other family recipes include the nem nuong, grilled shrimp and pork rolls served with rice noodles (Php 250 for 3 pcs.) and the bung tom or rice noodles with sautéed shrimps and fresh vegetables. (Php 180).

Enjoy a cup of their Vietnamese drip coffee with condensed milk – served both hot and iced, alongside their banh da lon, or mung bean and pandan dessert with peanuts and coconut cream, very similar to the local sapin-sapin. Prices are reasonable and the portions offer good value for money.

To get to Bawai's, from Sta. Rosa road turn right heading towards the Rotunda. Approximately 100 meters away, turn right right on Lagusan Drive, which becomes Buena Vista Drive. Turn right at the small green sign for 'Purok 5' (drive slowly, or you will miss it). Bawai's is on the left.

Tel Nos: (63 915) 4035155 / (63 920) 9172924
Address: Father Cortes Street, Barangay Bucal, Silang, Cavite
Email: bawais_tagaytay@yahoo.com

To a Tee: Golfing Around the Philippines

A country endowed with natural resources and breathtaking landscapes, the Philippines also has a great range of golf courses. Some of these are small nine-hole tracks, and some are large, full length 4-course complexes. These courses are usually built on plantations, can be relatively flat, but have ravines, water, trees and other hazards to make them challenging. Most courses are private, and a lot of the serious golfers and businessmen have memberships in multiple courses. It is probably because each course is different from the other which makes the whole variety of Philippine golfing experiences fun and never boring. Tee off and experience the beautiful settings of the country’s unique golfing enclaves, from lush valleys to mountaintops, seaside resorts, or just within the cityscapes. The courses have been designed by golf's famous architects like Jack Nicklaus, Arnold Palmer, Gary Player, and Robert Trent Jones, Jr., among other greats. These sites have been proud venues of some of the most prestigious international and local tournaments like the Asian PGA, Johnnie Walker Classic, the World Amateur Golf Championships, the World Cup and the Philippine Open to name a few.

The courses are rarely crowded except for early Saturday when most of the golfers make time to play. Generally, the farther from the city you are, the less crowded the courses and less expensive the golf. Also, if the weather looks like it could rain, the courses are pretty empty. Because it gets dark early, some courses have extended their availability with better lighting.

There are also many aspects that make Philippine golfing unique from the standard experiences abroad. One of these, which actually is a good thing about golf in the country, is that all the courses have caddies. The caddies pull the clubs, they help with club selection as they eventually figure out how long a hitter a player is, and best of all give, they give advice on the play. They know how far certain hazards are that you want to avoid and where you should try to hit the ball. Being locals on the putting greens, they are experts at reading the greens which can be difficult to read, especially those on the canyon courses where it is hard to get a good feel for horizontal. At some of the older courses, the caddies may have 10, 15 or even 20 years experience. Besides being a sporty way of learning a few Filipino words like kaliwa and kanan, when one follows what they suggest, you will make the putt or come very close and one ends up having a good play.

From north to south, here are our 12 picks of some of the best courses in the Philippines.

Alta Vista Golf & Country Club, Cebu
Alta Vista is a short yet challenging mountainous course. Add to the rolling terrain, narrow fairways and water hazards, there can also be strong winds. But with stunning views— standing on the course, one can see Mactan Island, Bohol, and the bay—difficult is the last word to describe it.

Apo Golf & Country Club, Davao
Apo Golf & Country Club, approximately 15 kms from Davao City, is a beautiful course that can be played at any time of the year. On most of the holes, the greens are huge and flat, with well-maintained sand traps. It, however, includes plenty of water hazards, and there are also numerous mahogany and coconut trees to add to the challenge. Be ready to be awed by the majestic Mount Apo, which can be seen from various vantage points including the tee-off on the 10th hole.

Caliraya Springs Golf & Country Club, Laguna
Caliraya Springs Golf & Country Club is located in Laguna Province, approximately 85 kilometers south of Manila. This 18-hole championship golf course designed by Arnold Palmer is located next to the man-made Caliraya Lake. The course has rolling terrains and some challenging water hazards. The course is suitable for high handicappers and seasoned golfers alike.

Camp John Hay Golf Club, Baguio
Designed by Jack Nicklaus’ Golden Bear International, the Camp John Hay Golf Course is one of the best in the country. Located 5,000 feet above sea level, it is surrounded by rolling hills, crystal clear lakes and tall pine trees.

Canlubang Golf & Country Club, Manila
Originally built in the 1920’s, this south area course used to be an old 9-hole course called Canlubang Sugar Estate. Today, Canlubang Golf & Country Club is the largest in the country. It was designed by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. and has 36 holes consisting of wide, undulating fairways lined with graceful coconut trees. About an hour’s drive south of Metro Manila, this course has man-made lakes and ravines. The North course is a championship course measuring 6,872 yards, whilst the South course is shorter. Do watch out for occasional winds.

Cebu Country Club, Cebu
Established in 1928, this championship course has improved continuously through the decades. Located in the center of Cebu City it is located only a few minutes away from the Mactan Airport. There are winding fairways, numerous trees, and sand traps furnished with ground coral rock.

Club Intramuros, Manila
The Club Intramuros course is quite short (par 66, with a length of 4,326 yards), but there are plenty of challenges as almost every hole includes either water hazards, out-of-bounds, or both. Established in 1907, the club is located in the heart of Manila and can be played in just over two hours, which makes it ideal for business people looking for a quick round of golf.

Fairways and Bluewater Golf & Country Club, Boracay
The golf course is in the middle of stunning Boracay Island, an hour’s flight and a 20 minute boat ride from Manila. This 18-hole golf course designed by Graham Marsh offers a different experience with every hole. The front nine is fairly flat, with plenty of water hazards while back nine is hillier, with less hazards. The views are beautiful but watch out for strong winds.

Tagaytay Highlands
On the top of the Taal Lake Ridge is the Tagaytay Highlands that runs down one of the canyons. The views and vistas on this course are to behold. Designed by renowned American golf architect Richard Bigler, the 18-hole Tagaytay Highlands golf course seamlessly blends man-made ingenuity with the natural contours of the Tagaytay landscape, resulting in a variety of daring challenges. The 13th tee, which is situated no less than 84 meters above the green, and our 18th hole, which poses the test of a 150-yard-wide gully. One of the holes has a 300-foot drop from the tee box to the fairway in about 100 yards. Other holes cross large ravines or have long downhill fairways. After 9 holes, a player is carted back up to the top for the second 9. One can either ride up in a truck or take the cable car going from the bottom of the course to the top. Considered as one of Asia's most exciting golf courses, the Tagaytay Highlands International Golf Club also has a plethora of sports and recreational amenities for golfers and non-golfers alike.

Villamor Golf Club, Manila
The Villamor Golf Course is fairly flat, but still challenging to golfers of all standards because of the trees and water hazards. The fairways are lined with graceful trees like agoho, ipil-ipil, narra and mango. The 150-yard point on each hole are marked with Indian tulips. The grass on the fairways is native carabao grass, which is ideally suited to the tropical climate.

Wack Wack Golf & Country Club, Manila
Wack Wack is an excellent golf club with two 18-hole championship courses. The first of these is the East Course that used to host the Philippine Open, the World Cup, and other famous events. This course is large, and includes: water hazards, undulating and elevated small greens, and lengthy fairways. The 8th hole is especially challenging, even for seasoned golfers.

The second is the West Course, a shorter, all-weather and less troublesome championship course. A par 70, this is more popular with senior and female members of the club.

Golfing Directory:

Alta Vista Golf & Country Club
Aznar Road, Pardo Hills, Cebu City
Phone: +63 32 272 7971
Fax: +63 32 272 7976

Apo Golf & Country Club
Bago, Davao City
Phone: +63 82 296 0048
Fax: +63 82 297 2036

Caliraya Springs Golf & Country Club
Barangay East Talaongan,
Lumban, Cavinti,
Laguna
Phone: +63 2 681 5461
Fax: +63 2 681 5493

Camp John Hay Golf Club
Loakan Road, Baguio City
Phone: +63 74 444 2131
Fax: +63 74 444 2132

Canlubang Golf & Country Club
Canlubang, Laguna
Phone: +63 49 549 7201
Fax: +63 49 549 0147

Cebu Country Club, Cebu
Banilad, Cebu City
Phone: +63 32 231 0345
Fax: +63 32 231 4096

Club Intramuros
Bonifacio Drive cor. Aduana Street,
Port Area, Intramuros, Manila
Phone: +63 2 527 6613
Fax: +63 2 527 6614

Fairways and Bluewater Golf & Country Club
Boracay Island,
Malay, Aklan
Phone: +63 36 288 5587
Fax: +(63-36) 288-5595

Rancho Palos Verdes
Barangay Mandug/Indagan, Buhangin Ditrict,
Davao City
Phone: +63 82 560 0238
Fax: +63 82 562 7169

Tagaytay Highlands
Tagaytay City, Cavite
Phone: +63 46 483 0888 or 413 3808

Villamor Golf Club
Colonel Jesus Villamor Air base, Pasay City
Tel: +63 2 853 4977
Fax: +63 2 853 4988

Wack Wack Golf & Country Club
Shaw Boulevard, Mandaluyong City
Phone: +63 2 723-0665
Fax: +63 2 723-8558

Scuba Diving in Boracay, Free Willy Style... The Mexican-American, French and Filipino Connection

It’s has been barely two hours since Hector, a Mexican-American colleague of mine, and I stepped unto the tarmac at Caticlan where flight brought us with the promise of a Boracay adventure like no other.

Visiting just for the weekend, we needed to maximize every minute of our stay on the world renowned Boracay Island with its beautiful people, turquoise blue waters and powdery fine white sands where many tales of wonderful experiences and adventures have been written. However, it’s a different type of adventure that we have in mind and it is a visit, or a courtesy call, if you may, to the other beautiful world beneath the surface of Boracay’s glorious waters. We wanted not just to simply get wet but to get up close and personal… we wanted to go scuba diving.

Now, for those who scuba dive and have seen what Boracay has to offer, well there’s a dizzying array of places you can go that caters to your underwater adrenaline fix.

From ultra luxe resort-owned establishments to big independent operations and some mom-and-pop kind of a shop; if scuba diving is your cup of tea, then Boracay’s dive shops and dive sights will no doubt keep your cup overflowing.

However, we have a slight crease on an almost perfect laid out plan. Hector, although a tri-athlete who participates in tough competitions like the Iron Man races and who takes to the water like a fish, isn’t a certified SCUBA diver yet. So, we decided to look for a place that can take care of him in a personal and one-on-one capacity.

Enter a cozy and homey hole-in-the-wall dive shack named Free Willy Diving. Well Willy and his über friendly staff, no-- call it family, took care of us like we were already a part of them. We felt at home the instant we walked into their reception area.

The instructors are already out for their regularly scheduled afternoon dives but that didn’t stop them from making sure Hector can go and discover nature’s unparalleled beauty beneath the waves that only scuba diving can offer. The owner, Willy, a Frenchman, took upon himself to personally administer the Discover Scuba Diving orientation and instructions to Hector.

After a video presentation, Willy’s personal one-on-one instructions, brief beachside demonstration and assessments of important basic diving skills, we found ourselves headed to our first underwater exploration of one of the dozens of dive sites surrounding Boracay. Willy selected two dive sites for us that afternoon that would be suitable for Hectors’ first underwater foray but which he promised will not be lacking on excitement.

A backward roll entry unto the water and we finally got our fins wet. Willy signals a thumbs down signal for descent, a reply from us with eager OK hand signals and we found ourselves floating down unto a whole new world and ready to explore out very first Boracay reef system. Our eyes bulged wide at the amazing wonders that greeted us, even the regulator stuck in Hectors’ mouth can’t hide the ear to ear grin he has on his face. We were all awestruck as a multitude of fishes in brilliant and flashy colors swarmed around us. He was inundated and literally covered with fishes as if they know he’s got some treats for them. It seems the fishes have blood hound senses too as they instinctively hover around you waiting for the tasty meal stashed in our pockets. The fishes are not shy and they literally brush and push against your face and unabashedly eat out of your hands. Some even playfully nibble on your fingers mistaking it for a piece of bread but immediately recognize their folly and find their mark. No matter where you go, the army of fishes follows. Now I know how the Pied Piper of Hamlin must have felt as he was followed around by a swarm of furry pests. I’m sure though, that our experience is a hundred times much pleasant and thoroughly enjoyable.

After the wall of fish had gotten over their excitement of seeing us, they start to go back to their normal routines and the underwater realm unfolds before our eyes. The vistas that Mother Nature presented to us are truly wonderful and utterly indescribable. Visibilities akin to clear drinking water afforded us a front seat view of the wonders only nature can create. The soft and hard corals, the sponges, the ferns, the vegetation, and the marine life is an explosion of colors that even “Crayola” will run out of crayons to depict each and every hue, shade, and brilliance of the colors that is painted on this underwater canvas.

Each corner you take and any direction you look at, you’ll be greeted with something that you haven’t seen or done before like being greeted by a seemingly meek and shy porcupine puffer fish I nicknamed “Puffy Puppy” whose big eyes and coy puppy-like demeanor is cautious at first but soon is out and about, blissfully playing a game of TAG with you. Leaping and bounding joyfully, he leads you on a chase through the reefs. A few seconds of chasing and playing catch up with him… Tag you’re it! Surprised of having been tagged, puffy puppy goes PUFF! Now it’s the cute little pups’ turn to do the chasing, after he deflates to normal size of course.

If you think a game of tag is too exhausting, try hide and seek and you’ll find that many underwater creatures are a master of blending in. Hiding out in the open for them is just as good as being totally concealed from plain sight. On another coral head you can try another game, a stare down called “who blinks first loses” with a striped moray eel whose sinister stare is definitely far worse than its bite. Or you can just simply fool around with a brightly colored clownfish.

You can test your buoyancy skills hugging closely the reef floor and stealthily creeping as close as you can get to a party of blue spotted stingrays having their afternoon siesta.

Then again, one can simply be just a passive observer floating blissfully along the reef. An experience that I can only describe as flying free, weightlessly and unencumbered as life is played before you in this entirely new, unique, colorful, and beautiful underwater world where a spectacular star or two is never out of reach.

Three hours and two dives later, we are now on the boat headed back to the shore and one would expect a lively and animated discussion of the wonderful underwater experience we just had but all you can see are quiet and contented smiles and glittering eyes having witnessed the magnificence, beauty, and bounty of nature.

Willy did mention something before the dive about the site being suitable but not lacking in excitement. I guess that is an understatement as it is not just suitable but perfect, and it is bursting to the seams with excitement. To top it off, a glorious blue and gold sunset made our day’s adventure simply unforgettable.

So what connects the Mexican-American first timer to the islands, the Frenchman who was once a first timer but now call the islands home and the Filipino who has an on-again off-again love affair with the islands? The answer is apparent -- Boracay and love for scuba diving has created a bond of mutual respect and admiration that transcends skill, race, age, creed, even stature in life, and most of all, a yearning that hopefully the next generation will still have the privilege of seeing the things we were blessed to have witnessed.

Travel Notes:
Domestic carriers have regular flights to Kalibo and Caticlan, the gateways to the island of Boracay. From Kalibo, travelers still need to travel by land for two hours to reach Caticlan where a ferry will take them to the island. Direct flights to Caticlan saves precious time that can be well spent in the waters and shores of the paradise island of Boracay.

Hundred Islands and Puerto del Sol

Imagine hundreds of islets as far as the eye can see. Each has its own shape, location, and an ecosystem which has been there since they were discovered.

The Hundred Islands National Park in Alaminos City, Pangasinan is a sight to behold. Who can’ resist exploring each and every small island located all over 1,844 hectares of pristine blue waters? Said to be about two million years old, the Hundred Islands National Park is a marvelous natural attraction of the north.

Of the hundreds of islands found in the waters of the Lingayen Gulf, only 3 are developed into tourist spots; the Governor’s Island, the Quezon Island and the Children’s Island. Just 20 minutes by boat, Governor Island is a perfect family place for an overnight stay in the islands. It has a guesthouse with the comforts of home. The Children’s Island is just a 25-minute ride away from the main port. It is ideal for travelers who are on a budget.

Apart from the magnificence of the islands, it is also a safe sanctuary for marine life. It is the location for replanting giant taklobos (clams) and corals which were destroyed by the typhoons and storms that passed by the islands.

After a refreshing dip in the islands, it’s nice to return to a place that will provide you the relaxation and comfort you deserve. Located in the town of Bolinao, in Barangay Ilog Malino, just a few kilometers northeast from the Hundred Islands National Park is the world-class seaside resort/hotel, Puerto del Sol.

This resort/hotel offers its guests great accommodations complete with features and facilities that will make your vacation smooth and very memorable. The resort is decorated with beautiful antique furniture giving the resort that classic grandeur. Visitors can eat at the cozy Café del Sol Coffee Shop or try their Nouveau cuisine dining at the resort’s main restaurant. Guests can also enjoy a quick dip in the luxurious pool or you can step down to the beige colored sand beach facing the shoreline of the South China Sea. The beach line is more than a kilometer long giving its guests access to the public beach front. For reservations, you may contact Puerto del Sol at their Pasig office at (02) 637 8963 and 635 2547. You can also check their website at www.puertodelsol.com.ph.

Exploring the Pygmy Forest

Ever felt like a giant?

The Pygmy Forest of Davao Oriental can surely make its visitors feel bigger and at the same time, awestruck with its uniqueness and beauty. Located at Mt. Hamguitan, the Pygmy Forest is composed of over a hundred hectares of small bonsai trees scattered around the mountain valley. Recorded to be only about 2 to 3 feet tall, with some of the largest growing at a maximum of 5 feet, the century-old bonsai trees can carry an adult on its branches with its sturdy weight.

This midget-sized Pygmy Forest is a safe sanctuary for the flora and fauna that flourish in the area. Here, you can find exotic birds and animals living within the bonsai trees. The forest is also home to the famous Philippine Eagle.

The Pygmy Forest is a favorite trekking site for mountaineers, hikers, and nature enthusiasts because of its proximity to the other natural sights found in Mt. Hamguitan. After exploring the Bonsai Trees, tourists can also visit the 250-foot twin falls and the “Tinagong Dagat” (Hidden Sea) which is a saltwater lake located in the middle of the mountain range.

Because of its important role as a habitat to rare and exotic creatures, Mt. Hamiguitan was declared by the President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo as a Wildlife Sanctuary.

Sanctuary in the Swamps

My first “real” bird watching experience happened without plans. It was a spontaneous activity suggested by my team mates in a whale expedition, on a day when the waves were so big and the winds were so strong that we were confined on land. We simply grabbed our binoculars and a note pad and brought a good bit of enthusiasm with us as we strolled along a trail in the little island where we were. Little did I know then that bird watching is almost like a religion to a growing number of enthusiasts, especially in Europe, where people would need meticulous planning to organize a trip. I discovered this when I joined my brother and the Wildbird Club in a bird-watch trip in Tambo, a bay side grassland in the reclamation area in Pasay.

The event was simply amazing. It was the closest thing to an African savannah safari tour that anyone could experience in a bustling metropolis. And I thought this could be the start of a new thing for me.

In the past few years, bird watching has become popular in the Philippines as different resting sites of migratory species were identified across the country, some of which have been declared bird sanctuaries. One particular spot is the Candaba marsh in Pampanga.

Here, one would need to wake up really early, as I did. Birds roost early and there are pre sunrise activities that they go about so it is best to be on the road early. This gives a good meaning to the phrase, “The early bird catches the worm.” In this particular occasion, I went along with WWF-Philippines so all I had to do was follow. At 5 a.m., we were already in the first NLEX stop over having coffee and getting last minute directions from the leader of the group. Going to Candaba, one won’t need a map worthy of Columbus. The NLEX has a road signage dedicated to tourist sites located a few hundred meters before the supposed exit so watch out for the brown sign that refers to the Candaba Bird Sanctuary before the Pulilan, Bulacan exit. Even if you’re not a bird expert or an avid bird watch enthusiast, you wouldn’t miss this because it totes an image of a long legged bird with a long beak.

After a total of 5 turns, we saw ourselves cruising on a dirt road that seemed like an old flooded rice field that was left untilled for some time. Immediately, one would notice the presence of sturdy carabaos bathing in mud while egrets ride on their backs showing a perfect contrast of colors between the pair that although a photo cliché, will make a good laptop wall paper. Further on, a group of whiskered terns abound. Some grass birds would appear, looking as if they are cleaning themselves with their beaks. For people with inferior sense of sight, these small birds could tickle their sense of hearing as they continuously fill the air with chirps and songs… “bird calls” as they call it.

The team assigns a member to write down all the species they spot. In this list, one would find a number of common names with question marks. These are the ones that they haven’t seen but heard. Experts would know the species just by listening to the bird call. But sometimes, confirming this would need corroboration from other members.

As we went further, we were greeted by some staff from the LGU at the rest house/info center which houses billboards and posters of bird photos taken by leading wildlife photographers at the Candaba swamp. History, vital information and programs relating to the discovery and eventual preservation of the swamp also fill up the center. Behind it is a narrow, tree lined dirt road where bird watchers can hide among the bushes to avoid disturbing the birds while getting a close look at them.

Dominating the landscape is the multitude of Purple Herons and the Great Egrets resting atop and amongst the bushes as if stalking insects for their breakfast. By the time the sun is up, it is easier to spot the small ones like the king fishers and Moorhens walking about on the wetlands. Other visitors of the wetlands are the Bee Eaters, Yellow Vented Bulbuls, and ducks.

It is simply a sight to behold especially if the participant is a city guy. Here, you would see the freedom in the birds’ flight. Here, they would feel the security from poachers or human predators. It is like a haven of a stopover for most of them who are bound to travel thousands of miles back to their respective homes.

Travel Notes
The best time to go to Candaba for bird watching is from October to February. The best time to watch the hovering and landing of birds is at sunrise and sunset.

How to get there
From Manila, drive through the North Luzon Expressway and take the Sta. Rita exit. You will pass by Pulilan town and Baliuag in Bulacan. Take the service road to the right of the overpass leading to the Baliuag town proper (do not take the overpass) and turn left toward Candaba.

The Candaba Swamp is not the only place in the Philippines ideal for bird watching. Just a few kilometers off Mactan Island in Cebu is Olango, an island inhabited by small fishing villages and communities. But from July to November, the townsfolk living in this small island get visitors from faraway places. The Olango Wildlife Sanctuary becomes the refueling station and wintering ground for thousands of migratory birds coming from countries such as Siberia, Northern China and Japan. Here, they feed on the rich supply of invertebrates and intertidal mudflats before flying off to their destination in New Zealand and Australia. Different kinds of birds such as Chinese Egrets, Asiatic Dowitchers, Plovers and Eastern Curlews come to rest on this 90-hectare wildlife sanctuary.

Puerto Princesa High

Palawan – that long, familiar strip of green land we see to the west of the rest of the country on maps – has often been called the Philippines’ last frontier, and for good reason. The largest province in the country in terms of land area is home to a diverse number of animal and plant species, not to mention indigenous tribes, yet many of its areas remain largely unsettled.

Armed only with a cursory knowledge of the place, I flew to the province’s capital Puerto Princesa imagining myself a modern-day frontiersman. Arriving at the airport, my friends and I were greeted with leis made out of shells with a kapis disc bearing the emblem of the city. Already I felt like a VIP; didn’t they reserve these kinds of welcome to visiting dignitaries, or noontime show hosts?

Lobsters and Crocodiles

The Asturias Hotel in the heart of the city would be our home for the next three nights and four days. Clean, spacious and with friendly and accommodating attendants, it’s the perfect homebase for anyone wishing to explore the wonders of Puerto Princesa.

Our first order of business was lunch at the Badjao Seafront - a restaurant built over a marshland, with a gorgeous view of the surrounding mountains and the open sea. Too bad we couldn’t stay longer; the sunsets here are supposed to be spectacular. Still, the place served the best lobster I’ve ever had the pleasure of nibbling (and I don’t even like seafoodthat much).

After lunch a guide toured us around the city and showed us some of the projects of the local government, including a visit to the city’s sanitary landfill, the first of its kind in the country, and the offices of an emergency response system patterned after 911 in the US. We were impressed to find out that Puerto Princesa has been voted the cleanest in the country more times than even the locals can keep count of.

We also swung by the Crocodile Farm, now known by the more generic name Palawan Wildlife Rescue and Conservation Center. If you’re easily freaked out by crocodiles and other assorted reptiles, I suggest you skip this place. I’ve never seen so many buwayas in my life, except perhaps at most intersections on EDSA. Touche.

Fruits, vegetables and phalluses

The next day we got up early for the two-hour trip to the world-famous Underground River, now vying to be recognized as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Our hosts really went all out for us; besides taking care of our every need, they pampered us even more by treating us to their unique “Palawan massage.” If you’re craving for one the next time you’re in Puerto Princesa, you should know that that’s the term they use to describe the bone-crushing experience of driving along the dirt and stone path leading to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Some massage. I needed a real one after that workout!

As expected the underground river was completely out-of-this-world (and in some ways, it literally may have been). Amazing stalactites and stalagmites protrude from the limestone ceilings and walls while we silently glided over the waters and dark passageways. Being careful not to open our mouths throughout the trip (water and bat droppings fell with regularity from the roof of the cave), we listened as our guide gave us hilarious commentary on the shapes and formations we saw along the way: a fruit and vegetable section, a cathedral, a Nativity scene and even a stalagmite in the shape of a giant phallus. Of course, the snickers could not be contained. So much for maturity coming with age.

Snakes and Lu-Li

And what would a trip to Palawan be without a visit to the beaches? The next day saw us zipping around Honda Bay onboard a speedboat. The roar of the engine seemed almost criminal, breaking the silence of calm waters and the romantic air mustered by the specks of green islands dotting the scenery. We stopped over at Dos Palmas but did not get to have our feet touch its fine white sands --- there was a minimal charge, but being the cheapskates that we are, we refused to fork over anything over two pesos. We did however swim, snorkel and sunbathe to our heart’s content at Snake Island and “Lu-Li,” an island so-named because it is lulubog-lilitaw (comes and goes with the tides).

We celebrated our last night in Puerto with a magnificent meal at Kinabuch (we dined at the city’s famed KaLui restaurant the previous night). Over fresh shrimp, squid, crispy pata, gising-gising, and more food than our tiny stomachs can hold, we reminisced our Puerto Princesa sojourn and thanked our lucky stars we live in a country with places just waiting for us to explore and appreciate.

GETTING THERE

By plane: Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific and Air Philippines all have daily flights to Puerto Princesa, which is just a little over an hour away from Manila. Roundtrip flights cost an average of P6,000++ (but check your favorite airline for discounts and promos)

By sea: WG&A Superferry and Negros Navigation both have a weekly ferry from Manila to Puerto Princesa. The trip is about 22 hours long. Regular fare with meals onboard Superferry is about P2,300+. (Rates are lower if booking is made two or three days in advance).

Once in Puerto Princesa, you can hire a van to get you around for about P3,000.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Clean, spacious and with warm and attentive hotel staff, The Asturias Hotel is the premiere hotel in Puerto Princesa. Rates start at $65++ (around P2,900++ for a standard room.

Can’t Miss Spots in Puerto Princesa

KaLui: For meals fit for a king (or a measly townsfolk), KaLui is a must-try. Even non-seafood lovers (like me) will be satisfied.

Underground River – Where else can you see an onion, corn, mushrooms, a domed amphitheater, and even a sleeping Jesus all along a subterranean river? Watch out for bat poo!

Sabang Beach – No, not the one in Puerto Galera in Mindoro. This one is near the Underground River and has a spectacular view of cloud-shrouded mountains.

Lu-Li – Spend the day in what’s practically a sandbar in the middle of the ocean. The locals built a springboard about twenty-feet high for daredevils to plunge headfirst into the blue ocean.

Mystified by the Mountains

I expect this little note shall find you basking in the tropical sunshine, tanning yourselves to a crisp golden brown while sprawled across our spectacular white beaches.

You’re wearing slippers… and a swimsuit, or maybe shorts and a tank top. Heck, maybe even nothing at all. But a satisfied smile is on your face as you walk along the shoreline. And as you stare wistfully out into the ocean, or gracefully emerge from out of the water, you tell yourself how this vacation is every bit as great as you imagined, and as relaxing as you deserve. Welcome to the Philippines… a paradise more magnificent than we can ever properly advertise!

This is a call to lose the rubber flipflops, don the boots, and go trekking through the Philippines’ mystifying mountains.

More than just being an archipelago with beaches to die for, the Philippines can also boast of lush mountain ranges, with the longest one spanning more than 200 miles long. It is home to the likes of the Philippine tarsier, one of the smallest mammals in the world; the Philippine eagle, one of the largest eagles in the world, with a wingspan that reaches 8 feet; and thousands of other species of flora and fauna. To this day, many Philippine summits remain uncharted, with many more species yet to be discovered.

Despite this, there are now over a hundred mountains with established trails to climb, and these come in all shapes and elevations. These mountains are the ambassadors of Philippine biodiversity- through them, even city-dwellers like us get a chance to revel in its wonders. And trekking is our tool for carrying this out.

Some summits are within a few hours’ reach, so easy to climb that you can be home in time for dinner. Some you can climb in 2 days, perfect for the weekend warrior. And there are some that take a serious four or five days to complete, and require a considerable amount of training. I’ve taken the liberty of introducing to you the tallest peaks of the Philippines’ three main island groups – Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao- based on my personal experience.

They’re not the easiest mountains to summit by far. But if there’s ever a checklist of “must-climb” Philippine mountains, these three will be high on the list. I know they’re high up on mine. And I hope I can convince you to go out and create your own mountain experience. I believe there’s a mountain out there suited to every kind of willing soul. You virtually just have to pick your poison.

MOUNT PULAG (LUZON)

Mount Pulag is the highest peak in Luzon, a dormant volcano rising above the northernmost regions of the Philippines.

It is part of the Cordillera mountain range, home of the brave indigenous peoples called the Igorot. Some of these tribes were once known for their warriors and headhunters, but they are no longer the war-like tribes of centuries ago. The rest of the rich Cordillera heritage, however, is still very much alive, and can be seen while on the path to the Pulag summit. You may pass rice terraces and traditional houses along the way, and cross old hanging bridges that stretch over raging streams.

The mountain guides themselves are from some of the various Cordillera tribes. To Kankanaey, Ibaloi, and Kalanguya tribes, Pulag is a holy mountain, and those who guide climbers to its summit never fail to tell the visitors as much. They caution the mountaineers to refrain from cussing, playing loud music, and acting boisterously, for they fear it will anger the spirits inhabiting Pulag.

One thing you will notice about Mount Pulag is the drastic changes in its appearance, the higher and higher you climb. At the onset, it may resemble any other mountain trail, except for the cold air that only the Cordilleras can provide. But halfway up, you will find it transforming into an eerie mossy forest, with moss hanging from branches, moss clinging to rocks, made even more eerie by the thick fog almost covering your view of the climber in front of you. The air becomes twice as chilly when you enter this part.

And then, almost as suddenly as it appears, the mossy forest fades out to reveal the famous Grasslands. Here, all trees and rocks disappear, leaving only a valley of tall grass that stretches as far as the eye can see. One guide of the Kalanguya tribe once explained to me that this is where they got the name “pulag.” In their native dialect, the name literally means “bald.” Climbers know this area to be the homestretch of the Mount Pulag adventure, with the summit only hours away.

There are three trails that can take you to the summit: The Ambangeg Trail- known as the “Easy Trail,” requiring only 5-6 hours of trekking through gently rolling terrain to get to the peak; The Akiki Trail or the “Killer Trail,” which takes two days and nearly 13 hours of climbing very steep slopes; and the Tawangan Trail, the longer and more scenic of the trails, which also needs 2 days to the summit. In the end, it all depends on what kind of climber you are, and how much you want to push yourself. Pulag is just there waiting. All trails eventually merge into the Grasslands, at which point all climbers can set up camp and share the strange experience of spending the night in freezing to sub-zero temperatures… in a tropical country.

Nothing, however, caps a Pulag climb better than an early morning assault to the summit, for a view of the famous sunrise. Here, as you wait for dawn to break before your eyes, you feel your muscles aching, and you ask yourself why on earth you embarked on this crazy adventure. But at that precise moment when the sun emerges, when its first rays kiss your cold cheeks, and you look around to see nothing surrounding you but friends and a sea of pure clouds, you will realize that this is the reason why. And that it’s all worth it after all.

MOUNT KANLAON (VISAYAS)

Mountains are often climbed for the bragging rights that come with reaching its summit. I found myself propelled by the same motivation, until Mount Kanlaon humbled me into realizing the folly of my ways. I can say, without a moment’s hesitation, that this is the most spectacular mountain I have ever climbed, with its hidden wonders bordering on surreal, half the time leaving me and my climbing buddies shaking our heads in disbelief.

Surrounded mostly by the sugarcane plantations of Negros province, Kanlaon doesn’t have that much competition in the height contest. It is the tallest mountain in the Visayas, although only the 27^th highest in all of the Philippines. It is the largest active volcano in the country, with its last major eruption killing 3 mountaineers in 1996. The mountain still sporadically spews rocks and ash until now, occasionally forcing park rangers to close the mountain off for months at a time. Legend has it that Kanlaon is named after the supreme deity “Lakan Laon,” or “The Exalted Laon,” a man once believed to have slain a seven-headed dragon that wreaked havoc from the mouth of the volcano.

If there’s one thing my Kanlaon experience taught me, it’s that not all climbs are about the summit. Rey, our dependable guide, made sure we understood this very early on. When we arrived at the jumpoff point already half a day behind schedule, all anxious and ready to make up for lost time, Rey sat us down, and cooked us sinigang. And when we asked him if he wasn’t worried about our schedule, he just laughed.

“Masyado kayong nagmamadali. Relax lang dapat tayo. Hindi niyo maeenjoy yung bundok niyan eh. (You worry too much. We should all relax… you won’t enjoy the mountain being like that.)”

As it turned out, his reply became the theme of our Kanlaon experience.

We trekked with a casual pace, enjoying each other’s stories, soaking up every bit of the scenery. And I cannot put in words, even to this day, how absolutely beautiful Mount Kanlaon is. We trekked alongside bright yellow birds, and other creatures I thought I could only find in pet shops. It was the first time a saw trees look EXACTLY like a soldier’s fatigues; they were so alike I almost reached out to make sure they weren’t commandos in disguise. A careful look at an ordinary leaf would reveal an intricate border, while flowers of different shapes and colors lined the trail. There was always something extra special in every tree, every rock, every waterfall, every blade of grass. I checked with my companions to see if they were noticing it, too. They were. “If mountains were women, this one is a damn hot chick,” one of my friends exclaimed in disbelief.

Rey explained that the volcanic nature of Kanlaon that made it so unique. And it kept getting better as we pressed on. On the second day, we came upon a clearing in the trees. It was our glimpse of Kanlaon’s old crater, now known as the magnificent Margaha Valley- an unbelievably vast expanse of flat land, large enough to fit several football fields, right smack in the middle of the mountain. At the sight of it, we went berserk, racing down toward the valley, proceeding afterward to run and jump and roll around and behave like absolute fools, laughing insanely in the process. One companion showed us grass that was actually edible, and we nibbled like rabbits. After regaining composure, we had lunch in the valley, sitting on grass that was as soft as cushions.

We could see the crater summit overhead, but at that point, no one was in a hurry anymore. No, this adventure was no longer about reaching the summit at all.

But when we did reach the peak, we had to give it respect as well. The gaping volcano crater, with blue sulphur steaming below, was unlike anything I’ve ever seen. We had to crawl on our hands and knees to peek into its mouth; the edge of the crater, Rey explained, is brittle and could collapse any time. And then right there, at the mouth of Kanlaon’s crater, Rey told us the story of the 1996 eruption, and how, as their guide, he tried to save three mountaineers, but failed.

Mount Kanlaon is so beautiful, it almost isn’t right. Even on the way down, crystal clear crater lakes greeted us left and right. When we stopped for sandwiches, there just had to be an underground cave nearby, and we just had to find nests of the famous balinsasayaw perched on its crevices. There just had to be a neon green garden glowing with cushiony moss, one that you had to enter single file in order not to tarnish. The had to be rocks covered in moss so soft and thick that if you lean against it, you leave your shape like a crime scene chalk line. And why not throw in an entire valley full of dwarfed bonsai trees that make you feel like giants. The mountain is the stuff of fantasies. It almost isn’t real. But it is, and it’s well within your reach.

MOUNT APO (MINDANAO)

Behold the poster boy of all Philippine mountains: Mount Apo, the highest peak of all. This king of mountains reigns in the south, towering proud over the island group of Mindanao. And no Filipino mountaineer’s career is ever finished without this feather in their cap.

“Apo,” meaning elder, grandfather, or god, is also an active volcano, and unlike its other volcanic counterparts, this mountain is constantly spewing sulphur from its many vents. Locals prefer this, because to them, it means Apo’s wrath is not bottled up.

My Apo experience was less than perfect, but unforgettable nonetheless. It played like a video game– a race against time and the setting sun. To make a long story short, logistical troubles turned what should have been a two-day climb to the summit into a one-day affair. The goal: to reach the summit before sunset, or not summit at all. A daunting thought, since at dawn, we were still several hours from the base of the mountain. Would Apo permit this foolish task?

Save for rest stops, there wasn’t much time to look around and enjoy the view. Nonetheless, the trail was incredible. One minute you’re hopping along a flower-laden path, the next, you’re balancing on a fallen (and slippery) log, willing yourself not to look down. You cross streams, rappel on vines, slip, fall, and laugh off the pain. This was Apo, after all. No one expected it to be easy.

Eight or nine hours into the climb, we entered the Boulder Valley. This is the point where the mountain falls away, leaving only large chunks of volcanic rock that go on and on to the top. Without any trail to follow, it becomes every climber for himself, each one leaping from boulder to boulder, onwards and upwards, to what we believed was already the summit in the distance. And just like a video game, we had to do this in the fastest possible time, because surrounding sulphur vents kept spewing suffocating fumes into our nostrils. This goes on for more than hour.

My boots, conveniently enough, had to pick this time to split open and give up on me. I had to finish the rest of the climb occasionally taping and tying my shoes shut. From then on, I was a tired and cranky mess. And what I thought was the top, was just a rest stop after all.

“10 minute rest, then packs up again,” shouts our guide, Lito.

We were surrounded by mountain walls. There was nowhere else to go, I thought. “Packs up? To where?” I ask in disbelief.

“There.” And he points to one of the mountain walls… one that inclined to about 70-80 degrees.

I had never been more ready to give up than at that moment.

But one thing I learned, never underestimate the power of a funny guide. The boys from EDGE, the group who guided us, saved our spirits with their stupid jokes and funny voices. Nothing like a good laugh to take the fatigue away. And sure enough, we press on, overcoming the 80-degree madness step after painful step.

The weary group stepped onto the summit just as the last light of day fizzled out. And save for 2 broken pairs of shoes, we all made it in time, and in one piece. No matter what the circumstance, we are now summiteers of Mount Apo. And no one can ever take that feather away from our hats.

MT. PULAG

ELEVATION: 2,922 meters (9,586 feet) above sea level

LOCATION: Kabayan, Benguet (Cordillera Autonomous Region)

DURATION OF THE CLIMB:

Via AMBANGEG TRAIL : 2 days, 5-6 hours to summit
Via AKIKI TRAIL : 3 days, 12-13 hours to summit
Via TAWANGAN TRAIL : 3 days, 13-14 hours to summit

BEFORE THE CLIMB:

Call DENR Kabayan to schedule your climb, your guide, and your jeep rental.
Go online to look for available inns and hotels in Baguio City.
(From Manila) In Cubao, take a Victory Liner bus to Baguio City: approx 6 hours
Shop for supplies (food, batteries, butane tanks for your stove, etc.)
If lacking cold weather clothes, shop at any “ukay-ukay” second-hand store you can find.
Eat a good meal, pack your bags, get a good night’s rest.
On the day of the climb, proceed with your rented jeep from Baguio to DENR Kabayan for registration and briefing.
Proceed to jump-off of selected trail. Instruct driver when to return to pick you up and where.

DENR Park Superintendent for Mt. Pulag, Emerita Tamiray

+63919 631 5402 / +63917 630 3204

DENR Mt. Pulag Office

(074) 444 7428

BUDGET:

PhP 2000 to 4000, depending on the number of climbers

POSSIBLE SIDE TRIPS:

KABAYAN TOWN, with authentic Kabayan weaving
BATAD, Benguet
BAGUIO CITY

MT. KANLAON

ELEVATION: 2,435 meters (7,989 feet) above sea level

LOCATION: Negros Island, Western Visayas

DURATION OF THE CLIMB:

Via GUINTUBDAN-WASAY TRAIL : 4 days, 15-16 hours to summit
Via MAPOT-MASULOG TRAIL : 2-3 days, 9-11 hours to summit

BEFORE THE CLIMB:

1. Call Mt. Kanlaon National Park to reserve a slot for your climbing group. MKNP limits its climbers to only 9 at a time.

2. Submit the necessary documents as instructed.

3. If coming from Manila or elsewhere, book a ticket to Bacolod City, Negros Occidental.

4. Butane tanks and the like are not allowed on the plane; purchase these along with other supplies in Bacolod City.

5. Proceed via public jeep or minibus to jumpoff point of desired trail.

Park Superintendent for Mt. Kanlaon, Angelo Bibar

+63917 301 1410 / +63919 836 1905

Rey Estelloso, mountain guide

+63927 753 1695

BUDGET:

PhP 7,000 to 8,000 inclusive of airfare

POSSIBLE SIDETRIPS:

SIPALAY BEACH, Sipalay
BACOLOD CITY

MT. APO

ELEVATION: 2,956 meters (9,691 feet) above sea level

LOCATION: DAVAO DEL SUR and NORTH COTABATO, MINDANAO

DURATION OF THE CLIMB:

Via KAPATAGAN TRAIL (Davao del Sur) : 2 days to summit, 2 days down
Via KIDAPAWAN TRAIL (North Cotabato) : 2 days to summit, 2 days down

BEFORE THE CLIMB:

1. The tourism office to contact depends on your jump-off point; best to contact the guides from EDGE to discuss possible routes.

2. Book your flight to Davao early, in order to match your itinerary.

3. Submit all requirements beforehand to avoid delays during the climb itself.

4. Butane tanks and the like are not allowed on the plane; purchase these along with other supplies in Davao City.

EDGE Outdoors-

LITO ESPARAR (GUIDE) +63927 795 3123

JAY (GUIDE) +63929 486 7688

BUDGET:

PhP 10,000 inclusive of airfare

POSSIBLE SIDETRIPS:

380-METER ZIPLINE at Camp Sabros, Kapatagan (before jump-off)
PHILIPPINE EAGLE CENTER, Davao City
DAVAO CITY PROPER

WELL-BEING: NORTH HAVEN SPA

Visits to Baguio often evoke unforgettable memories. From the classic boat rides in Burnham Park to the colorful sights and sounds of the city market; from the short strolls along Session Road to the breath-taking scenery at of Mines View Park-you can't get tires of visiting these memorable Baguio attractions.

The cool crisp mountain air looms with the scent of pines. There is just this special feeling when you're in the summer capital of the country. A special feeling you will surely enjoy when you have experienced the heavenly treatments of North Haven Spa.

At first glance you wouldn't expect to find this mountain haven in the premises. The spa is located in what looks like an old rest house said to be made in the 1960's along the quiet Avelino neighborhood of Ferguson Road. As you make your way upstairs, you'll be enchanted with its picturesque view of the city overlooking the mountainside. The spa is decorated with the traditional Cordillera charm, from the small idol sculptures, native images as well as hard wooden etches and pieces mixed with the modern wellness facilities. The aromatic scent of pines infused with strawberries; fill the rooms as well as being main ingredient in one of their sensual packages.

What make North Haven Spa so special is how unique and original their treatments are. The spa specializes in body scrubs using native ingredients. The Baguio Strawberry Scrub (Php 795.00) uses fresh strawberries to exfoliate the skin to provide more moisture and improve your skin tone leaving a sweet smelling feeling all over your body. Next is the Benguet Coffee Scrub (Php 795.00). Grounded coffee beans are rubbed all over the body to cleanse the skin. The treatment is said to improve the circulation of the body. There is also the Cordillera Rice Scrub (Php 795.00) which uses the thick red rice variety harvested in the Mountain Province. The scrub cleanses the pores as well as removes dead skin cells of the skin.

North Haven also offers traditional massage techniques which originated from the Cordillera Mountains. The Gis-Gis-To (Php 395.00) is a traditional head massage from the Mountain Province area. Another is the Tal-Talad-Tad (Php 595.00) a soothing full-body massage that relaxes the muscles and relieves stress with its gentle strokes. The Mountain Herbal Compress (Php 695.00) is another massage treatment that uses organic herbal leaves to ease muscle aches and pain.

For those looking for the complete mountain spa experience, try their revitalizing spa packages. Each package is a combination of their original massage techniques using local ingredients to further relax and rejuvenate the body. You can choose from the following: The Baguio Bliss Package, The Strawberry Bliss Package and the Cordillera Bliss Package. All are packed with tantalizing and sensual touches that will leave you asking for more.

A place to refresh and indulge oneself, North Haven guarantees its guests a relaxing sanctuary in the mountains. North Haven Spa is another reason why Baguio is the favorite summer retreat, because it induces unforgettable memories of pure mountain bliss.

21 Avelino St. Ferguson Road, Baguio City
Tel. No.: (074) 300 5022
Website: www.northhavenspa.com

Tirta Spa (Royal Spa Grandeur)

Known as the first “premier spa” on Boracay, Tirta boasts of opulent Balinese and Asian-inspired architecture and elements. Its signature hue is the color purple which Ms. En Calvert, the spa director of Tirta, revealed has a relaxing effect on the mind and body as well as being the color of royalty, a likeness to the way the staff treats you as soon as you enter the magnificent gates.

What makes Tirta Spa more exciting is the passion with which they create innovative treatments to satisfy every guest. The Before and After Sun Treatment, for example, is a highly recommended spa package for those who love to soak under the sun. Before hitting the beach try the Boracay Sunrise which includes facial and body exfoliation topped with a body massage for that even glow. The Boracay Sunset treatment is ideal after hitting the beach. Cool pink clay (a botanical skin care product from Australia) is applied all over your face and body, revitalizing your skin and maintaining its youthful appearance, followed by a light to medium massage. For those June brides spending their time on Boracay, Tirta Spa has created a customized package to make your wedding moments more memorable. The Pulot Gata (Honeymoon Ritual) can be a pre- or post-wedding beauty ritual. Immerse yourself in a 3.5 hour session of pampering and relaxation fit for royalty.

Tirta Spa also uses Biodroga products manufactured exclusively in Baden-Baden, Germany. Made only from natural ingredients, these spa creations provide special care for your skin, particularly when selecting the luxurious pampering of the Biodroga Golden Caviar Facial, an extensive pore-refining treatment, leaving you more relaxed and radiant than ever.

To experience the opulent spa treatments of Tirta Spa, you can contact them at (036) 260 2488 or you can check their website at: www.tirtaspa.com

THE MANDALA SPA AND ITS SIGNATURE TREATMENT

Looking for a place to ease all your tensions while surrounding yourself with relaxation and serenity? The Mandala Spa and Villas is an enchanting oasis located in the middle of Boracay Island. It is a haven where you can relax and be pampered; offering the treatment you have been longing for. Immerse yourself in the luxurious tropical paradise while indulging in their award-winning treatments given by well-trained staff. Packages perfect for couples are likewise available. One of their services, the Mandala Signature Massage, is one of their best treatments certain to make your stay worthwhile.

The Mandala experience begins when you first step into the property, from your walk up the pathway, to that warm greeting given by its employees. At the open reception area, the tranquil setting instantly starts to ease your worries away. The short walk to your private villa accompanied by your therapist not quite prepares you for the surprise that lies ahead. The private villa is your very own personal heaven. Soothing music and serene ambience - the villa alone dissolves that last strand of stress.

The Mandala Signature Massage, from the name itself, is the main key to all its other services. In all the spa sessions of Mandala, the signature massage is present. The treatment begins with a footbath, setting the mood. Relaxation starts as your foot is being cleaned and massaged – somewhat a preview to the full body experience yearned for. After the foot massage, your therapist will let you choose your own aromatherapy oil. As you lay down on the treatment table and the signature massage commences, a relaxing state of mind engulfs you with the long strokes and gentle stretches.

On the leisurely walk to change back into your regular clothes, thoughts are at ease and the entire body feels relaxed. Capping it off, ginger tea is offered when you re-emerge. The 1 hour and 15 minutes spent in that villa seems ideal. The splendid session has detoxified, balanced and re-energized your mind and body, making you ready for the return to the concrete jungle.

For more information on how to have your own Mandala experience, kindly contact Mandala Spa and Villas at (036) 288-5857 or visit their spa sanctuary at Station 3 of Boracay Island. You may also visit their website at www.mandalaspa.com.

GIFTS FASHION

Over the years, Gifts Fashion has earned national recognition in the fashion jewelry industry by strict adherence to its standard for quality and excellence in design. Specializing in semi-precious stone jewelry, their line of creative merchandise includes a large selection of costume jewelry that cannot be found elsewhere.

From the stunning blue aura of turquoise to the pastel tones of pearls that display an unlimited palette of color and radiance, Ms. Gift Regalado, owner of Gifts Fashion, offers a great selection of these naturally occurring minerals from the earth.

Gift believes that each individual has unique and different tastes and needs. Therefore, her collection offers original handcrafted jewelry that is at the leading edge of design and function. These reflect an unlimited potential as an expression of the personality of the wearer.

Gifts Fashion is available at the following establishments:

House of Laurel
6013 Villena St., cor. Manalac St.
Poblacion, Makati City
Tel: (63 2) 895-5688/ (63 2)890-1686
www.houseoflaurel.com

Tesoro’s
With branches at Trinoma, The Landmark, Alabang Town Center, SM Cebu, Manila Hotel, NAIA, Duty Free Philippines
Main Store: 1325 A. Mabini St., Ermita, Manila
Tel: (63 2) 524-3936 to 40

Nautilus
D’Mall
Station 2 Boracay Island,
Malay, Aklan

Gifts Fashion Showroom
URDC Bldg., Uymatiao Annex, Sta. Catalina St.,
Dumaguete City
(63 35) 422-0097
www.giftsfashion.com

Crocs rings in Country with Crocs™ O-dial - The new mobile accessory line

Crocs™, Inc., introduces an exciting new line of mobile device cases. The Crocs™ o-dial phone case integrates the vibrant color and fashion statements for which Crocs is known into a fun and functional electronics accessory. The Crocs™ o-dial will be available in the Philippines from May (only in Crocs concept stores) and will be retailing at P750.

The universally-sized mobile device cases are designed to share the look and feel of the popular Crocs™ Cayman shoe model. Far from being a novelty item, the Crocs™ o-dial phone cases offer much more than a standard fashion phone sheath. With patent pending features like an adjustable strap concept for security and carrying convenience, along with a strong plastic clip for easy attachment to a waistband, belt or backpack, each case comes packaged with a lanyard for yet another way to carry the product everywhere. The raised inside surface is designed to protect electronic device faces, and an internal accessory sleeve makes the Crocs™ o-dial phone case the perfect way to carry other everyday items like I.D., credit cards, cash and more. Crocs™ o-dial phone cases are a great fashion accessory for kids, teens and adults (can we say everyone?) who want to flaunt their Crocs style wherever they go.

The Crocs™ o-dial phone cases are available in eight colors: black, silver, red, grape, fuchsia, celery, cotton candy and turquoise. Along with these great colors, the Crocs™ o-dial phone cases are jibbitztm charm ready – users can snap their favorite jibbitztm charms into the holes. That’s what the holes are for!

LAING PIZZA AND LAING PASTA

Why do Filipinos love Laing? No one can seem to get enough of this native delicacy that has found its way into the dining table of every home in the country. This creamy spicy vegetable dish is frequently served in family gatherings, especially in celebrations and fiestas. From being a simple provincial dish into becoming a culinary favorite among the Filipinos, the Laing dish has certainly made its way as a Filipino classic.

Apart from being a healthy food, the dish is made so delicious by the local ingredients which are easily found all over the country. Dried gabi (taro) leaves cooked with fresh coconut cream and coconut milk, shrimp paste, garlic, onions and pieces of pork composes this harmonious dish. Laing is also known as an all-around dish – it can be an appetizer, a side dish and a main course (when served with rice). Like kimchi, the spiciness can be adjusted to ones capacity for hot food.

The people in the province of Bicol have concocted innovative Laing dishes that will make you fall in love with it even more.

From the creative kitchens of Small Talk Café come the mouthwatering Laing Pizza and Laing Pasta.

A combination of classics, these 2 dishes bring a whole new experience to Laing lovers. The Small Talk Café in Legazpi, Albay invites its visitors to try their new culinary masterpieces. They have their own version of the Laing Pizza plus the delectable Laing Pasta. Not only will you enjoy the local delicacies they offer but also the cozy ambience and small town atmosphere they are known for. The Small Talk Café is located along Doña Aurora Street in Legazpi City. For inquiries you may call them at (052) 480-1393.

Philippine Kutsintas and Tea Time

Every Filipino loves food. He eats whenever he can, wherever he can. From breakfast to brunch, lunch and dinner to midnight snacks, the Filipino makes every moment a feast to remember. Every meal brings merriment to friends and families eating together; and in every celebration, food is the island man’s main invitation to his guests.

In between lunch and dinner, there is this special meal which gathers everyone together for a special moment. The Europeans call it “tea time,” but for the Filipinos, merienda is the jolliest meal of the day. Friends and families take a break from their busy schedules and take a short merienda break together. Merienda usually consists of drinks like coffee, juice, and the native refreshment of buko juice or gulaman and sago. An array of bite-size snacks are often served to the party such as banana que / kamote que (caramelized banana and sweet potato), lugaw (porridge) and ginataan.

Classic Filipino snacks are the ones made from rice and one of these delectable finger foods is the yummy kutsinta similar to the Korean tteok, traditional rice cake. Made from rice & sugar served with shredded coconut meat, this sticky treat will surely fill you with delight. They are always packed in quantities so you’ll get to have more! The kutsinta can be easily bought in any supermarket, grocery or store that specializes in selling Filipino local delicacies.

Next time, make sure to take a break and have some kutsinta and other Filipino treats and have a great merienda time.

A Touch of Africa in the Calamianes

When planning a weekend trip outside of the city, northern Palawan or the Calamian Group of islands, to be exact, is the perfect place for a unique and private experience. White sand beaches, wreck diving, snorkeling and exotic wildlife are just some of its main attractions, and for one who grew up or spends most of his/her time in the city, it’s difficult to imagine that such a contrasting location is only an hour and a half away.

For those who have become accustomed to the sight of giraffes and zebras behind the protective gates of a zoo, the Calauit Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary located north of Busuanga Island is truly a remarkable experience for nature-lovers and travel bugs. This 3,700-hectare island was converted to a game preserve and wildlife sanctuary in 1976 to salvage the diminishing number of local animals in the country of Kenya (Africa). Calauit Island’s natural environment--location, available vegetation, and landscape--was declared a perfect new home for the beleaguered African animals. Thus, a number of giraffes, zebras, impalas, gazelles, bush and waterbucks, elands and topis were transported to this island sanctuary to mingle with endemic species of animals like Palawan monkeys, bearcats, peacocks, mouse deer, porcupine, anteaters, and mongoose. Since then, the imported animals have successfully adapted to the local environment and have increased in number.

Getting to Calauit Island straight from the Busuanga airport can be strenuous: one hour by plane from Manila, half an hour to Decalasiao Wharf by jeep, and then a three-hour pump boat ride to Calauit. Also, every visitor needs to secure a permit from the office of the Palawan Council for Sustainable Development located in Coron. Though these inconveniences may not be a concern for the adventure-traveler, booking a couple of nights in a nearby resort, like Club Paradise (Dimakya Island) will offer you a more relaxing trip. Not only will this give you a place to rest and unwind, the resort can also do the paper work and organize a Calauit Island tour for you.

Paradise on the way

Daily flights by local airlines are scheduled from Manila to the Busuanga (YKR) Airport, a small airport with a short landing strip that 19-seater planes usually overshoot anyway. It will be worth it to request a window seat so that you can see the mountains, white sand shores and spot little islands when closing in on Busuanga. When there, you will take a 30-minute jeepney ride through a valley to a dock on the Panggawaran River. From there, another half-hour ride, this time on a pump boat, will finally take you to Club Paradise. Although the trip may sound long, the mountain views and the lush mangroves sitting on the riverbank are beautiful enough to make your travel time fly by. Don’t worry, the airport transfers provide guests with drinks and snacks to tide you over until you get to your final destination.

Once you’re settled at Club Paradise, you will have a chance to discover why the resort is called so. It is a 19-hectare, nature-oriented resort that boasts of white, powdery sand that circles the island (you can circle the island just by walking along the shore). The resort’s direction is to preserve and protect the endemic species that you are sure to see while on the island. Don’t be surprised to come across a monitor lizard slowly crossing your path to reach the natural lagoon, to be awakened by the sound of herons and other birds in the morning, or even to see a Calamian deer waiting for you outside your door! But be sure to get some rest because your visit to the Calauit Game reserve is still on the itinerary.

Travel Notes:

Palawan’s wet season is from July to November with heavy rainfall in July to August. Its coolest months are from December to February, and its driest are from March to May. Palawan is hardly hit by typhoons.

Since the Calauit Office is closed on Saturdays and Sundays, visitors must book the tour on or before Friday afternoon (you may call the resort ahead of time). There are daily schedules to Calauit Island from Club Paradise, the first trip is at 7:00 a.m. while the second trip leaves the resort at 1:00 p.m. It takes one hour to get to Calauit from Club Paradise via bamboo raft or flat-bottomed boat, and the whole tour/trip takes five to six hours.

When you reach the Calauit Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary (www.calauitisland.com), you will be taken by open bus around the island to view the animals. Comfortable clothing and a camera are necessary, and you may want to bring extra pocket money should you decide to purchase a souvenir at the shop. Snacks are provided at the middle of the tour. At Calauit Island, you can expect to see almost all the animals mentioned earlier, as they are accustomed to the sight of visitors. For the safety of visitors and the animals, getting off the bus to get closer to a herd or lone grazer requires the permission of the guide. If you do get permission, this will give you the opportunity to come a few meters away from the wildlife and snap some priceless photos.

A case of wild boar attacking gazelles and impalas during the early years of the Preserve, and thus diminishing their population, prompted the island to seclude the boars and other predators in certain areas on the island.

Aside from touring the island by bus, you will be taken to the area where the young or animals needing medical attention are kept. Here you will see numerous mouse deer and you will also be given a chance to enter the cage of some bearcats that will zealously eat bananas and vegetables off your hand.

The Calauit Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary also focuses its efforts on protecting sea animals like the dugong, sea turtles and giant clams. Fitting, since any trip to Palawan is a reminder of how beautiful unspoiled beaches and aquamarine waters are.

If you took the morning trip from Club Paradise, there is a lot of time to do other activities upon your return from Calauit. Fishing, island hopping, kayaking, sailing, diving and other outdoor activities can be organized by the resort. Snorkeling just a few meters off the shore will also introduce you to brightly-colored corals, stingray, and schools of jackfish just to name a few. But if you’ve depleted your energy reserves for the day, take a quick nap and enjoy the evening where you can spend your time at the library, the Dugong Bar or the game room and indulge in the many indoor activities offered by Club Paradise. In the mood for a late night swim? The pool is open 24-7.

Club Paradise

Dimakya Island, Coron, Palawan

(63-2) 838 4956 to 60

www.clubparadisepalawan.com

Jumbo Restaurant Manila

When driving along the CCP Complex in Manila, it’s impossible not to notice the massive size of a Chinese vessel parked in Manila Bay. At first glance, it seems like a giant Chinese Floating Kingdom passing through the Philippine seas or a dramatic oriental ship filled with unknown mysteries of its origin. But for those who have already visited the Jumbo Kingdom in the CCP Complex they have already experienced and tasted one of the finest Oriental cooking in the whole world.

From the seas of the Hong Kong harbor to the shores of Manila Bay comes the extraordinary Chinese cuisine of the floating Jumbo Kingdom Restaurant. The Jumbo Kingdom is known for its magnificence and the numerous international celebrities and dignitaries they have already served – from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth, to award winning Hollywood actors like Yul Brynner and Tom Cruise.

When you first see the floating restaurant in Manila Bay, you will be astounded by its lavishness and magnificence – more than 10,000 light bulbs are lit at night to give life to its detailed Chinese exteriors. Like its outside design, the Jumbo Kingdom’s interiors are very wealthy and extravagant with intricate detailing and brilliant designs that portray the ancient Chinese Imperial Palaces. The restaurant is like a museum with numerous Chinese artifacts and pieces. Visitors can even take pictures on the Emperor’s Chair which was used by the Emperors of the Ching Dynasty.
Located on the second deck is The Crystal Banquet Hall, the main venue for dining. It can host a large number of guests and is ideal for big banquets, events and other large gathering. For smaller, more intimate gatherings, the floating restaurant has 6 VIP rooms complete with plasma TVs and even a videoke system. The top deck is the Jumbo Music Lounge where people can have a relaxing spot to hangout and unwind.

Apart from the fantastic services and facilities an incredible array of dishes is served to the visitors of the Jumbo Kingdom. Skilled Chinese top chefs have prepared numerous mouth-watering dishes that cater to the appetite of each of their customers. They specialize in Cantonese cuisine as well as many other native dishes all over China. The menu is a collection of the finest dishes from Red Crabs, Suahe (shrimps), assorted lobsters, Sea Mantis, Braised Shark’s Fin and Dried Scallops…and that’s only the seafood! The restaurant even has holding tanks for their entrees to guarantee their freshness.

A place of oriental splendor and opulent setting with food brimming with rich eastern flavors, the Jumbo Restaurant is a Chinese treasure that has made its way home to the Filipinos. To visit the Jumbo Kingdom Restaurant, go by the shore of the CCP Complex along Manila Bay. For reservations you may call (02) 832 8888.

Constant Change in a Permanent Port

There are places so far away that visiting them can only be classified as a once in a lifetime event. There are places only a stone’s throw away --- so near that repeated visits become synonymous with boredom and a “been there, done that” attitude. And then there are those rare gems that bring constant change within its confines, that each return brings a novel surprise that keeps you wanting to go back for more.

There is a place tucked into a cove, northwest of Manila that I love going back to year after year. The Subic Bay Freeport Zone in Zambales may not be exotic or overly romantic as far as weekend destinations go, but the vast variety of things to see and do make it a place described by adjectives unique to each person that visits it.

To me, it is a preserved reminder of American presence in Philippine soil. A wave of nostalgia sets in each time I pass through the Subic main gate. It never ceases to amaze me how Pinoys, myself included, suddenly imbibe a rare sense of discipline on the road; stopping when signs indicate they should without checking first if a policeman ready to issue traffic violations is lurking nearby. As I stared out the car window, I am reminded of how much I appreciate the beautiful manicured landscape each time I pass the winding roads into the former naval base. I remember that it is at this precise curve where I usually spot the colorful birds perched high on dense patches of bamboo. I look out half expecting to see the monkeys who make their home in the protected rainforest, so used to people that they often line the streets like street urchins begging for food. As the sun sets, I remember that bats are also plentiful in this area, their sunset flight taking on a theatrical show of silhouettes in the air.

As a staff employee escorted us to our rented Subic home, he recounts how Subic was like before the last of the American naval ships pulled out in 1992, and how from once being covered deep in Mt. Pinatubo ash, the city of Subic had managed to slowly transform itself from being a U.S. military base into a commercial and industrial tourist center. A fact I listened to intently, although being a loyal visitor, I have been witness to these changes myself.

True. Nothing really remains the same in Subic, which is why year after year there are likely new things to see or do. The former base prides itself on its eco-tourism and nature conservation programs, a few of which I had already experienced in the past. A couple of years back, the Jungle Environment Survival Training Camp (JEST) was the highlight of my trip. The center, run by local tribal Aetas offer day trips and overnight camping tours where you will be guided and taught to drink water from a vine, cook and eat on utensils made from bamboo, and even make fire from bamboo shavings.

Other outdoor trails and ecotours, like hiking through the Apaliin trail, are definitely worth the time and effort as there is nothing more refreshing than to experience the expanse of lush vegetation, and wild animal life that the Subic rainforest has to offer. The trek concludes in a banca ride offering a great view of the bay. Other trails and outdoor activities that shouldn’t be missed include trekking through the Pamulaklakin Forest Trails, visiting the Bat Kingdom and Highway, having a picnic or going fishing in the man-made lagoon in Bicentennial Park, and enjoying the breathtaking panoramic view from Hill 394 (Subic’s most popular peak). Despite my repeated visits, I have yet to try them all!

Beaches are plentiful along the Subic coastline. Nothing could beat the mix of the hot sun and the clear, blue waters with fine sand beneath my feet when relaxation is on the agenda. There are several beaches to choose from: Officers’ Beach, All Hands, Kamayan, Nabasan, Dungaree, Hidden, Grande Island, and Redondo Beach.
And for those who treat the water as their playground, water activities are also abundant in the area. Water sports like jet skiing, parasailing, banana boating and kayaking are available.

If I only knew how, scuba diving is an adventure and thrill ride that I would have loved to try because apart from the marine life, Subic Bay’s sea floor also serves as a graveyard to the Japanese warships that sank during WWII. Another historical remnant of the old U.S. military base that is still present in Subic and often overlooked are the old foolproof bunkers that resemble little hills covered with dense patches of plant growth, hiding and protecting them from satellite or aerial sight.

Another essential part of the Subic experience, aside from the nature treks and beach hopping, is to go shopping and splurge in the chocolates and other goods found in the duty-free centers. I remember years ago when the lines in Royal Duty Free were so long that it snaked through the aisles, and you had to wait for at least an hour before reaching the counter. Although most of its products can already be found at our local grocery stores these days, Royal Duty Free and Pure Gold still pride themselves for having an excellent selection of goods. Items are priced in dollars and it is very convenient to go shopping here as the stores are set side by side in one area.

While in Subic, one could never miss the much talked about themed parks located less than an hour away from the main tourist areas. It is typical to dedicate an entire day just to go to both the Zoobic Safari and Ocean Adventure parks.

Zoobic Safari is a 15-hectare sanctuary located in heart of the Ilanin forest. There is a two-hour, five-part attraction tour, which includes going through the Serpentarium (housed in a former ammunition and missile bunker), crocodile sanctuary (where you can dangle chicken breasts at the end of a fishing pole to feed the hungry crocs), the Ostrich Savannah, and the petting zoo where you can play with and bottle-feed a baby tiger. The highlight of the two-hour long tour however is the one-of-a-kind close encounter with the tigers being housed and bred there. I remember my own experience of being seated inside a safari jeepney while tigers were lured by dangling a chicken by the mesh-wired windows. Eventually, a group of 500-pound tigers struck at our window, eliciting blood-curdling screams from our group. Seemingly satisfied, the tigers proceed to drag their meal away. An up close and personal experience not recommended for the faint of heart.

More ideal for relaxation, Ocean Adventure is an open water park, where instead of having indoor pools, they have several fish pens harbored in the bay that serve as floating habitats for the whales, dolphins, and sea lions that are housed in the park. The main attractions were the dolphin and whale show, the sea lion show, and the discovery aquarium. Getting up close with the dolphins to pet them and have your photo taken will cost a little extra. I found the entire package quite enjoyable, and it is a good opportunity for the handlers to relay the message on the importance of taking care of our environment.

One can visit Subic for a week and have a different agenda to experience each day. For the family, it would be a great weekend full of activities for the kids, and for a visiting patron such as myself, there is nothing like a little rest and relaxation to soothe my urban nerves. The most popular way of visiting Subic would be to take a car or hire one as it makes it easier to go from one destination to another, but travelling by bus or by plane are also possible.
There are so many things to explore in and around Subic, with each trip always gratifying. And on my three-hour trip back home, I realize how this beautiful place in sharing its reminders of the past and its rich, natural environment to other people, never fails to restore a certain type of appreciation in them, and which hopefully as I do, will draw them more and more into that refreshing sense of fullness and contentment that I’ve learned to surrender myself to in my short stay.

Indeed, the only thing constant in life is change. And as I leave Subic again at the end of this year’s sojourn, I am left to wonder what surprises next year’s visit would bring.

OCEAN ADVENTURE:
Park Hours:
9am to 6 pm everyday
Admission Prices:
Adult P450
Children 12 years old and below P370
Senior Citizen P370

Subic Bay Office:
Telephone: (63) 47-252-9000
Fax: (63) 47-252-5883

Manila Marketing & Reservation Office:
Telephone: (02) 706-3344 to 46
Fax Number (02) 706-0808

E-Mail: info@oceanadventure.com.ph

DUTY FREE SHOPPING:
PUREGOLD DUTY FREE
Palm Street
Tel No:(63-47) 252-5557/5558
ROYAL SUBIC DUTY FREE MALL
Wine and Liquor Shop
Argonaut Highway
Open 10 am to 7 pm (Mon-Thurs)
9 am to 7 pm (Fri-Sun)
Tel No:(63-47) 252-3015/6115

VALUE CITY
Duty Free Shop
Main Gate Area
Open 7 am to 6 pm (daily)
Tel No: (63-47) 252-3811/7437

88 MART
Duty Free Shop
Sta Rita Road
Open 10 am to 7 pm (Mon-Wed)
9 am to 8 pm (Thurs-Sun)
Tel No:(63-47) 252-6088/7488

GETTING THERE:
Soar by Air

The Subic Bay International Airport has a regular direct international scheduled and chartered flights. Far Eastern Air Transport provides international scheduled flights to Taipei and Kaohsiung Taiwan on Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
Air Asia operates three times a week to Malaysia (Kuala Lumpur, Kuching, Subang) while Dragon Air operates chartered flights to Hong Kong once a week. The China Southern Airline flies twice a week to Shenzhen, China.

Travel by Land

SBFZ is 110 kms. North of Manila, the Philippines' capital city, where Saulog Transit and Victory Liner air-conditioned buses provide passengers regular transport services to and from Olongapo City terminal. A short jeepney ride takes you from the Victory Liner terminal to the Freeport, while Saulog Transit terminal is just a stone's throw away from the vicinity.

From Manila And Any Point In Luzon. Take The North Luzon Expressway All The Way To San Fernando Exit And Pass Thru Towns Of Pampanga (Bacolor, Guagua, Lubao) And Bataan (Dinalupihan) To The Subic Bay Freeport Expressway. (Tipo Road, Bataan).

Sail by Sea

A relaxing ferry trip via Mt. Samat Express leaves Manila from the Philippine Cultural Center on Roxas Boulevard and takes you to the port of Orion in the province of Bataan. From the port, a bus takes you to Subic Bay. Do note, however, that bus services from the port to Subic Bay should arranged with the designated officer at the front desk of the ferry terminal.

Balanan Lake

A place lined with centuries-old Balete trees, the Balanan Lake area was developed by the provincial government of Negros Oriental through the efforts of Governor Emilio Macias as part of their plans to promote Balanan Lake as a tourism site and a family destination. The facilities of Balanan Lake include a treehouse with a magnificent view of the entire lake, several swimming pools, a native restaurant and rooms for lodging. Activities such as fishing, kayaking, hiking and boat riding are offered in the resort.

A trek to the nearby waterfalls is also one of the many activities which can be enjoyed at the resort. A small boat will take you to the end of the lake, and as your feet hit land, you will be welcomed by huge acacia trees at the beginning of your trek to the falls. The first few minutes of walking are quite easy, but as you near your destination, the paths get rugged so you must be really careful not to slip or fall. After successfully getting through the challenge, you will be rewarded with the site of a beautiful waterfall located in the middle of a thick forest.

Geckos are normal sights at Balanan. Because the resort is richly surrounded by trees, this is a natural habitat for them, and for some visitors, the nocturnal creatures and other animals roaming the area are added attractions.

The Balanan Lake is a body of water that was formed after a tectonic earthquake with a magnitude of 6.8 on the Richter scale shook the province of Negros in the early 1900s. Today, it is an ideal place for picnics, family gatherings, nature vacations and even romantic trips.

For more information on Negros Oriental and Balanan Lake, you may contact Maritoni Mascardo of the Negros Oriental Provincial Tourism Office at (63 35) 225 1825 / 422 0675 of visit the Negros Oriental tourism website at www.negor.gov.ph.

A Hamlet in the Mountains: The Tam-Awan Village in Baguio

Every artist needs an escape—a place of imagination that inspires original creation. He should feel motivated and stimulated by the brilliance of his surroundings. At the same time, the place should nurture his creations. It would be his natural “artistic environment”. For the artisans in Baguio, such a creative place does exist. Nestled in the northern part of the city, the Tam - Awan Village is a haven for the local artists and the free-spirited.

The Tam-Awan Village is a must in any Baguio visit. The village was created by the Chanum Foundation Inc. which is headed by one of the country’s national artists, Ben Cabrera. The place starts with an eco-tour with long rocky stairs leading up to the main village. It is surrounded by tall trees and pines decorated with flora and fauna found within the mountain provinces. When entering the Dap-ay (stone-paved gathering place), one can see the beautifully reconstructed Ifugao houses surrounding the main square.

What used to be a small hillside parked with used Cordillera tribal huts now acts as a unique mountain village. The wooden Ifugao houses that are scattered around the village are a marvel. They look simple from the outside but how they were structurally-made by the Ifugaos are beyond belief. Each wooden hut belonged to a tribe from the Cordillera region. They were made without the help of any nails or hardware. Furnished with only fresh cogon roofing, the huts still serve their purpose. Visitors can actually stay overnight in the reconstructed huts for a fee. Staying in any of these huts is a great way to experience how the mountain people lived in the past.

Already rich with culture, Tam-Awan is also overflowing with talent. The village holds exhibits, art fairs and many other events that showcase the works of different artists. The huts provide visitors an organic venue for viewing the artwork. Part museum, part art gallery, the works that are displayed here are also being sold to those interested.

The village not only centers itself on showcasing the talents of its members but also provides a venue for people to learn. It holds a number of workshops on the different kinds of art done inside the village – from Basic and Advance Drawing, Printmaking, Solar Drawing, Painting, and more. The village also has a coffee shop that acts as a specialty store that sells custom-made wooden clocks, paintings, wood carvings, wooden and metal amulets and necklaces, and other native crafts surrounding the place.

When entering the Dap-Ay, you can normally see people hanging around the bonfire area. Don’t be surprised if they greet you all of a sudden! They are the artists who frequent the place. They might even offer you a drink or two of wine. On the southeast side of the square is an open-walled hut were local artists offer sketch portraits for a minimum of Php 100.00 or 300.00 for couples—a good souvenir to take home.

Before the sun starts to set, you can climb up to the view decks of the village. Enjoy the cool mountain air while experiencing the totality of the place. Walk through a narrow bamboo bridge which really makes you feel how the tribal people of the Cordilleras lived in the mountains. The view deck gives you a spectacular view of the mountain ranges. If you are lucky you may even get to see a clear view of the China Sea.

A small world of creative awakening inspired by nature’s creations, the Tam-Awan Village is one of the mountains’ most precious hidden gems.

How to get there:
By Jeep: Take the ride from Quezon Hill to Tam-Awan or you can take the jeep going to Long-long which passes by Tam-Awan.

By Taxi: Ask the driver to take you to Tam-Awan, Pinsao Proper.

CHANUM FOUNDATION, INC.
Tam-awan Village
366-C Pinsao Proper,
Baguio City

Telephone Number:
(074) 446-2949
(074) 442-5551
Telefax:
(074) 442-5553

WATERSPORTS AT GRANDE ISLAND

Who doesn’t love playing by the beach?

Located in Subic Bay is the illustrious Grande Island Resort with a total land area of 40 hectares. Set in a 25-hectare forest, it is a perfect resort for marine sports lovers. A foremost Subic destination amongst Koreans, the resort has a Korean Resident Guest Relation Officer. One can relax and stay in 80 chalet rooms with private verandahs that overlook the stunning calm blue waters of Subic.

When staying at the Grande Island Resort, one cannot resist trying their water island sports. Speed lovers can take a ride on a jet ski, where you drive your own destiny, speeding up or slowing down while riding each wave. For those who prefer to test their strength and determination, try a ride on the “flying fish,” a towable inflatable device designed to stand up vertically when driven at high speeds. For a more relaxing group ride, grab some friends or take the opportunity to make new ones while straddling a giant yellow “banana boat.” Each inflatable, sausage-shaped boat fits 12 people with a minimum ride of 5 people. If you want to feel like you are flying but haven’t found your own wings yet, parasailing is a great alternative. Attach yourself to a harness lifted up to the sky in a speedboat-driven parachute and enjoy the island from a different perspective. If you want to take a glimpse of the colors the sea, you can also try scuba diving and snorkeling around the island. If you fancy land adventures, you can drive ATVs (all-terrain vehicles) which you can use to explore the island and see ruins and remnants of World War II.

At the end of the day, you can relax by the beach and see the sun setting or enjoy a succulent meal at their Orchid Garden Hotel which serves excellent Chinese cuisine.

Spend a weekend getaway or even a long vacation at Grande Island Resort and get to experience their exciting and exhilarating water activities! To get to Grande Island Resort, you can take the North Luzon Expressway (NLEX) and take the San Fernando exit. From the toll booth, turn right and drive towards Bataan. You will pass through the towns of Bacolor, Guagua, Lubao in Pampanga and Dinalupihan in Bataan where you must make a right turn towards Olongapo and the Subic Bay Freeport Zone. Enter the Tipo Expressway and proceed to Rizal Highway. Turn into Burgos St. (at the corner of Subic Bay Yacht Club) and go towards the Waterfront Road where the Grande Terminal is located. The terminal is almost across the SBMA Administration Building. From there, you can take a 20 to 30-minute ferry ride going to the island resort.

For reservations you may call the resort at (047) 252-2883. For more information, visit their website at www.grandeislandresort.com.

Tubbataha Reef Diving Experience

The island of Palawan is known for its towering limestone cliffs, immaculate beaches and calm waters. It is a vast ecosystem of sorts that certainly prides itself as the “Last Frontier” of the country. Because it is isolated among the other clustered isles of the Philippine archipelago, Palawan has become a natural treasure with its richness of life.

But apart from its glorious land formations, Palawan is also famous for its grand seascape. With over thousands of sea hectares crowding the deep sea, Palawan boasts of its marine life and of the fact that it is home to the majestic Tubbataha Marine Park.

Located in the middle of Sulu Sea in between Palawan and Mindanao, the Tubbataha Marine Park is the only purely marine-situated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Marine Park is 33,200 hectares wide with 10,000 hectares of coral reefs. It has 2 reef systems: the North Tubbataha and the South Tubbataha, both of which have their own collections of lagoons and islets that provide a safe haven for birds and sea turtles living in the island. The sea turtles use the small banks of sands as breeding grounds and a sanctuary for its precious off-springs.

What makes the Tubbataha Reef so majestic is its unique collection of marine life. The Philippines has more than 500 species of corals – 396 of which can be found in Tubbataha Reef. Here, you can encounter incredible marine creatures such as tunas, barracudas and sting rays.

Most scuba enthusiasts go “wall-diving” – a diving activity where one can see coral reef walls of up to 100 meters in depth. Enthusiasts say that diving in the Marine Park is like floating from outer space because of the breathtaking beauty and the exciting experience it offers.

To see the incredible Tubbataha Marine Park, you may contact the Tubbataha Management Office (TMO) at (048) 434 5759. Diving season usually start from March to June. Each visitor needs to pay a fee of Php3,000 for the maintenance, conservation and improvement of the Marine Park.

Experience Jungle Environmental Survival Training & Jungle Joe’s

When you think of the Subic jungle, what comes to your mind? Lush thick plantations crawling with wild tropical animals will surely pop into your head. But within the developing grounds of the Subic Bay Metropolitan Authority comes new jungle explorations filled with fun and learning; perfect for family trips and weekend getaways. From the deep jungles of Subic, two exciting places await to lure you into the wild. Learn from the unique and exciting Subic Jungle Environment Survival Training (JEST) Camp and experience first-hand the thrill of living in the Philippine jungle. And for the kids and the kids at heart, the activity-filled theme park of Jungle Joe’s will entertain you with delight.

The Subic JEST Camp experience is perfect for those who want to explore and know more about the wilderness of the Subic jungle. Learn directly from the instructors who also gave the US Special Forces and Navy Seals their survival training. The JEST Camp includes a trek where the instructor will teach you to distinguish the plant life and show you the different sources of potable water in the area. A demonstration on how to cook your food using only the materials available in the jungle is also included. Tours lengths may vary depending on the visitor’s level of training: from easy, moderate to difficult trails.

For a much more modern and kid-friendly wilderness experience, visit Jungle Joe’s World, located in the Subic Freeport Zone, where more than 50 hectares of fun-filled facilities await all visitors. Here at Jungle Joe’s, you can find different activities to choose from: novelty shops, theater systems, kiddie rides and more. For those who have a need for speed, the Indy 500 Racer gives visitors the chance to ride the racetrack in small roller race cars. For movie buffs, Jungle Joe’s has a Playhouse Theater themed in the 1950’s. Eat popcorn and other treats while watching on comfortable bean bag seats for cushioning. In the Winter Wonderland attraction, everyday is Christmas Day. See the elves working merrily on Christmas toys. You can even have your picture taken with Santa Claus in the middle of the year! Who says there can’t be a white Christmas in the Philippines? Jungle Joes’s even has a Paintball Course for those high-powered, adrenaline rush paintball tournaments. The place even has a Train Ride Adventure around the animal park to see exciting animals living in the jungle.

Visitors of the Subic jungle can stay at the numerous resorts and hotels found in the Freeport Zone. There is the tropical resort of Grande Island, the luxurious Legenda Hotel located along the Waterfront Road and the grand Subic Bay International Hotel. Beach lovers may also try the White Rock Beach and Resort.

Davao Whitewater Rafting

A prime destination in the Philippine Islands, the city of Davao will enchant you with its endless list of attractions and fun-filled activities. Located at the south western end of the archipelago, this thriving metropolis entertains its visitors with unique and exciting adventures.

For those thrill-seekers out there, Davao offers you only the best there is. The Davao Wildwater Rafting Adventure is sure to give you the awesome adventure vacation you’ve been looking for. Pump up your adrenaline as you paddle your way through the wild whitewater currents of the Davao river (from Tamugan to Lacson), 13-kilometer stretch with over 25 rapids rating from class 1-3. A perfect adventure for a beginner seeking speed at beginner pace. From this experience one can look forward to an elevated pace at advance courses in Cagayan De Oro and further north the challenges of Chico River, Kalinga Apayao.

The whitewater rafting experience is a great way to celebrate the spirit of fun and adventure, bringing people closer to nature. For only Php 2,000.00 per head with a minimum of 5 persons per raft, customers get to have a complete adventure package including packed lunches, use of gear and equipment, plus a souvenir t-shirt and photo CD to remember your rumble and tumble downstream. The tour also includes the 1 hour jeepney ride going to the whitewater rafting starter site.

Warning! Be sure to get wet as you paddle and scream with anticipation! You might even tumble overboard…but hey, that comes with the fun adventure!
When in Davao, be sure to catch and ride the waves and have the ride of your life with the Davao Wildwater Adventure. You may reach them at (082) 301 2020 or at (0920) 954 6896. For more information, you can check their website at http://waterrafting.davaocrocodilepark.com.

High Adventure Downriver

At the sight of the first rapids, your heart jumps to your throat, blocking what pride you would like to swallow. The tour organizers had briefed you on what to expect, had equipped you with a life vest, a helmet and a paddle, and had trained you how to deal with its dangers. But being told and seeing it for yourself, you realize belatedly, are two different animals, like cats and dogs. And this dog is big and is about to bite.

Adventures and Expeditions Philippines can take you on a two-day outdoorsman’s adventure, among several other packages, to the wilds of the Far North, spelunking in the Sierra and Callao caves in Cagayan, kayaking in Tuguegarao and whitewater rafting in Kalinga.

Now you cling desperately to your paddle, noting in near panic that your companions don’t seem to share your alarm, and send a final entreaty to the bright blue of the Kalinga sky. The fury of the boiling river claws at you in images of suffocating white water and sounds of stampeding rocks. Your shut your eyes. Here we go!

The raft’s first rush into the foam upends your stomach but clears your throat, and you let out a whoop that would have raised the dead of the Kalingas from Pasil (your drop-in point) to Tabuk (end of the river run) were it not for the gleeful cheering of your six companions. The electrifying excitement of the moment seizes you suddenly. Your clothes are drenched and cold but your blood is hot with adrenaline. Wow!

Now white wave upon white wave crashes against your craft, violently buffeting it from side to side, up and down, then in cycles of random combinations that would have put a spin dryer to shame. The prow bucks up again and you brace yourself for its watery downswing. But the prow goes up and up until all you see is sky! Suddenly, you’re airborne and breaking orbit fast for a splashdown in the churning Chico River.

You hit water in a shock of white, green and blue. The world shuts down and all you hear is the agitated burble of bubbles from your mouth. You break surface and the first thing you notice is the bright yellow paddle in your face that someone is holding out for you to grab.

Then, just as suddenly as the rapids sprung, the waters calm down, smoothing out into a sliding mirror of green and blue. The paddle dips gently into the water, adrenaline ebbs, pain waxes, the mind swings back to yesterday.

The package also includes a tour of the Callao caves. Peñablanca is your jump-off for another day’s high adventures and first up are the caves of Callao. The ragged mouth of the cave, a conspicuous and somewhat forbidding break on the hillside, jumps into view from behind a sparse stand of small acacias. A man, standing at the entrance, beckons. The gatekeeper from hell? Well, almost – if you’re scared of the dark and enclosed spaces.

The man turned out to be your friendly cave guide for the day, a local who knows the labyrinthine bowels of the cave like the back of his gnarly hand. And speaking of hands, watch where those city hands land, he cautions you. Apparently, the stalagmites and stalactites are sensitive to the human touch and for some reason, introduced bacteria – some unfamiliar chemical in the human sweat -- retards their growth.

Two hours later, you’re back in the light and mighty glad to be basking in golden sunlight again. The staff leader steers you toward the waiting shuttle and trundles you and your bunch off to Pinacanauan River, 40 minutes away. It’s time for your kayak lessons, boys!

The first thing you learn about kayaking is that kayaks were built by Inuits – Eskimos to you and me – for Inuits. There’s no way you can float in that, you tell yourself, provided, of course, that you can somehow squeeze your non-too-slim business end into the kayak’s svelte hull in the first place. But all ye men of little faith behold, the instructors work a miracle, and voila! You are suddenly in the saddle with a paddle. The left end goes up, the right goes down; the right end goes up, the left goes down. Nothing to it, easy as buko pie. That is, until Mr. Instructor lets go of the kayak and you boldly go where no man in his right mind has gone before. The moment you dig the paddle into the water, the kayak promptly rolls over on its side and your find yourself head down underwater, drowning. Well, on moments like this, you exaggerate a bit. But, hey, you’ve just had excellent instruction in the fine art of staying alive underwater while applying the exact science of righting a wronged kayak. In three seconds flat, you manage to roll your kayak up, and, heads up, you declare you indubitable seaworthiness to rumble. Stay with the basics, Mr. Instructor chides you. The rollover is strictly for an emergency.

After lunch, you are transported by motorized boat upriver for your run downstream to Callao. An hour later and in the shadow of soaring sheer cliffs, you slip into the water again in your bright yellow kayak. The current carries you slowly toward the first rapids. You try out the rhythm that you’ve been practicing. You note with satisfaction that your extensor and contractor muscles now all work in perfect sync with the paddle. Ah, and the kayak’s bow cleaves the river clean. At last, you and your kayak are one. You are ready.

The first rapids heave into view as a rippling ribbon of white. Your heart jumps to your throat. It’s going to be a long, extraordinarily exhilarating day.

How to get there: Asian Spirit has chartered flights to Tuguegarao. For inquiries, call their reservation hotline at (02) 855 3333.

Travel Note: Rafting season ends in mid-March and begins September (depending on the water levels in Chico River, it may start earlier than that).

For this adventure of a lifetime, contact Adventures and Expeditions, Inc., the pioneers of kayaking and whitewater rafting in the Philippines.

Anton Carag Jr.
Adventures & Expeditions Philippines Inc.
29 Burgos Cor. Arellano Streets, Tuguegarao City, Philippines
Mobile:    0917 5327480
Landline:    (078) 844 1298
Email:        aepi@whitewater.ph
                  anton@whitewater.ph
Website:    www.whitewater.ph

MANILA LIGHT AND SOUND MUSEUM

Celebrate Filipino pride! Learn about the Philippines’ rich history and the heroes who have sacrificed for our country’s freedom. Walk through time and see the highly-detailed life-size dioramas of the Light and Sound Museum in the walled city of Intramuros.

A tourism project developed by Sen. Richard Gordon, this interactive attraction symbolizes the integrity, bravery and spirit of the Filipino people. Relive the story of the Philippines, from its pre-historic encounters to the life and death of our national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal. See this amazing tour as you walk around the museum and learn about the historical events -- from the conversion to Christianity and the provincial revolts to the revolution that led our way to independence -- that shaped the country to what it is today. This educational tour is a great family trip as well as a perfect excursion for those who want to learn more about the country.

Learn history in a whole new and interactive way! Visit the Light and Sound Museum and experience the periodical treasures and events of the Philippines.

LIGHT AND SOUND MUSEUM
Sta Lucia Street cor. Victoria Street, Intramuros, Manila
Tour Hours: First show starts at 10:00AM
Last show starts at 6:00 PM
Fee: The tour requires a minimum fee of Php 1,000 per show
For inquiries, contact: (02) 524 2827

Jeepney Tours has a special interest package tour for those who want to visit Intramuros! Get the chance to visit the Light and Sound Museum then dine within the glorious walls of the city. For more details you may call Jeepney Tours at (63 2) 638 6644 and (63 2) 994 6636 or visit their website at www.jeepneytours.com.

MANILA INTERCON STREET STYLE

Balut… chicharon… taho? Oh my—! Did your mom let you eat those classic street foods? The ones sold of by the vendor yelling his goods from down the street? From the creative kitchens of Intercontinental Manila Hotel comes the delectable buffet line at the hotel’s garden restaurant, Sol y Sombra, inspired by our local street delicacies. For just Php650, you can gorge yourself on all manner of local food finds like the icky yet irresistible balut (hard boiled duck egg with fetus), delicious penoy (hard boiled duck egg without fetus), sweet corn on the cob, and chicharon (crispy pork rinds). But that’s not all. Freshly fried fish, squid, and kikiam balls (seafood meat) on the stick, calamares (squid coated with batter), lumpia (Filipino fresh rolls) and tokwa’t baboy are just some of the many treats you can come back to, again and again. There are also the luscious tropical fruit coolers, from fresh buko juice, melon, avocado and the special dirty ice cream for those hot summer days. And to complete this Filipino food tripping, enjoy eating and relaxing under the nipa huts by the side of the pool. Unforgettable street delicacies that you’ve craved since childhood – maybe your mom will even treat you there!

Sol y Sombra at the Intercontinental Hotel
No.1 Ayala Avenue, 1226 Makati City
For reservations, call 793-7000
Website: www.intercontinental.com/manila

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SURF’S UP! For a weekend surfing trip, nothing beats the beaches of San Juan, La Union

Surfers clad in nothing more than two-piece bikinis and hip-hugging board shorts congregate in The Little Surf Maid Resort to get some breakfast after riding the waves in San Juan, La Union. Over steaming heaps of rice, hotdogs and eggs sunny side up, they discuss technique and form, with the arbitrary complaint about how the waves aren’t big enough at this time of year. It’s just another day for these regulars in the Surfing Capital of the Northern Philippines.

San Juan is arguably the mecca for amateur and advanced surfers in Luzon. Zambales may have San Narciso and Pundaquit, and Aurora province has a long coastline facing the Pacific Ocean with numerous surfing possibilities, but San Juan offers the most consistent waves ideal for surfing, not to mention a well-entrenched community of surfers that call this town home. It’s about six to eight hours away from Manila by land, but for hardy surf warriors, visions of waves crashing onto the beach will linger in their minds for the duration of the trip and the travel time will go by in an instant.

Surfing Lessons
La Union is the gateway to the Ilocos region, and its capital, San Fernando, is mere minutes away from the splendid beaches of San Juan. Various surfing schools and resorts that offer surfing lessons and surfboard rentals line the stretch of sand from Urbiztondo to Ili Norte. If you’re a weekend warrior making your first trip up North and you’re determined to get some surf time in, most pro-surfers would agree that your best bet is to hire an instructor to teach you the basics.

The San Juan Surf Resort operated by award-winning surfer and part-time model Luke Landrigan is one of the more popular surfing schools not just in San Juan but in the entire country. Landrigan, who has racked up numerous citations for his surfing skills, including the prestigious Lanuza International Longboard Invitational in 2006, grew up in San Juan and has always been in his words, a child of the sea. “Ever since I could walk, I’ve been in the water,” he says. Since founding his surf school, he has personally mentored hundreds of amateur surfers, and the numbers have only gone up through the years as more and more people discover the thrills of surfing.

Not Just Surfing
The surfing season in San Juan is generally divided into two parts: November to February is the ideal season as the waves are more consistent due to the typhoons prevalent this time of year. From July to October, veterans flock to the other parts of the beach in search of better waves. A few places to check out when you find yourself in the area are Darigayos, the Urbiztondo Beach Break and a well-known spot known as The Point.

While tourists carrying their longboards are the most frequent visitors to San Juan, the beach is also ideal for those just wanting to do some swimming and sunbathing. The sand is a bit coarse and is a dark tan color, but it’s not uncommon to see sun worshippers spread out along the beach checking out the action offshore.

Food and Lodging
In the early 90’s, when San Juan was only starting to build a reputation as a surfing destination, most surfers tell stories of surfing the whole day and then spending the night in grassy makeshift huts as there were no decent overnight accommodations for visitors then. These days though, you can take your pick among the resorts that dot the beach. All generally provide reasonably priced lodgings for tourists, although the most popular seem to be Landrigan’s Surf Resort and The Little Surf Maid Resort. While many of the resorts offer surfing lessons and rent out longboards and other surfing essentials, it’s a good idea to check their rates first and inquire with a trusted surfing veteran or San Juan local.

As for food, don’t expect the resorts to serve five-star culinary masterpieces; most just offer stomach fillers that are a bit too pricey, and there are no restaurants of note worth mentioning. A good tip though if you want to save on your meals is to check out the restaurants away from the beach strip and to explore the myriad of choices along the road and nearer San Fernando. Remember that you’re practically at the doorstep of Ilocandia, and of course, you have the option of sampling their sumptuous native cuisine. A bit of snooping around and you’ll be rewarded with eating places that serve authentic Ilocano dishes like their famous longganisa, pinakbet, papaitan and the sinful bagnet.

Apart from the surfing, the beaches, the food and the laidback lifestyle of a genuine surfing community, San Juan offers much more for weary urbanites. Perhaps it’s time you plan a trip there this weekend and discover all this out for yourself.

GETTING THERE
The best way to travel to San Juan is by bus. A number of bus companies travel to La Union (and all the way to the Ilocos provinces) from Manila, with the most popular ones being Partas, Fariñas and RCJ Transit. A one-way ticket costs around P500. The buses travel along the national highway just a few steps away from the beach, so you can actually get off the bus and walk towards the shore.

ACCOMMODATIONS
Resorts in San Juan are relatively affordable. A standard aircon room good for two persons at the San Juan Surf Resort (+63 72 7200340) costs around P950, while a bigger room that can accommodate 4 persons is around P1,350. For those on a budget, they have a fan room good for 2 pax at just P550 and a dorm-type bedroom for only P250/head. For inquiries and a further listing of their rates, check out their website www.sanjuansurfresort.com.

Apo Reef Natural Park: Bounties below and above sea level

Apo Reef Natural Park west off Sablayan in Occidental Mindoro is easily stereotyped as one of the best dive sites in the Philippines.   With an area of 15,793 hectares, and dwarfed only by Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, the park lays claim to the largest atoll-like reef in the country. But not all the good stuff are below sea level, and this is good news to non-divers and non-swimmers alike. With the objective of finding out more points of interest in the park, I set out for a short trip, lightly packed.

From San Jose City, the land trip to the Municipality of Sablayan is roughly 2 to 3 hours. As I enjoyed my ride to Sablayan, amazed by the expansive rice fields and the mountain ridges far away, I realized that things have changed for the better. With bridges looking stronger and most of the long stretch of the roads paved, the road trip was pleasant on a cooperative sunny weather. Before the day was over, I got my boat arrangement ready for the following day.

Five years ago, the first time I went to this coastal town, the travel time seemed like forever. All I could remember were strong rains, flooded plains, and fallen bridges. My spirit was willing but the car’s engine was not, so my team went back to San Jose and just continued the journey the following day. The weather improved a little and we managed to drive all the way to Sablayan.

Apo, a treasure island
Onboard a regular motorized outrigger boat manned by a park ranger of Apo Reef Natural Park (and my guide at the same time) for the trip to Apo Island, we pierced the darkness at 4 a.m. with dauntless air. The discordant sound of the boat engine was strangely comforting. Rays of sunrise dawned upon us to reveal a small island. At 22 hectares, Apo Island is just a dot in the vast and sometimes turbulent waters of the South China Sea. From afar, who would think that this small piece of land could offer more than the usual diving and snorkeling?

Standing at 115 feet, the lighthouse is a landmark that is unmistakable as one closes in on the island. Built some years after the town of Sablayan was razed down to the ground in 1903 during the Philippine-American war, the monumental height of the structure was so enticing that it landed first on my morning agenda and I wasted no time in making my way up after I paid my dues at the rangers’ station.

Ascending the Apo Island lighthouse is, in itself, an experience. Every level offers different vantage points, making each step up a unique journey. With puffs of winds gently pushing white clouds against the azure sky, the 360-view from the top is nothing less than grand. Looking down, one can enjoy a bird’s eye view of the whole island patched with a ten-hectare mangrove forest that surrounds two crystalline blue lagoons.

After reaching a certain point of satisfaction, we proceeded down to the mangrove forest where a bamboo raft was ready for lagoon rafting. Maneuvering the craft was easy. There are two ropes that cutting across the lagoon and intersecting in the center. While onboard, the rope must be pulled nice and easy to drag the craft forward. At the center, one may turn left or right by grabbing the other rope and pulling as usual. We turned left to the direction of the ranger’s station.

Inundated during high tide, the mangrove forest is characterized by highly specialized trees that grow in muddy substrates. It is a nursery and spawning ground of many coastal and marine species, making it highly productive and favorable for transient wildlife. Because of the abundance of food such as shrimps, crabs and fishes, the forest provides a feeding and breeding ground for 46 migratory and resident sea birds. Put plainly, Apo Island is perfect for bird watching. There are two other small islands in the park, Apo Menor and Cayos del Bajo, which also serve as rookeries for the volant wildlife.

Time to replenish
The escapade didn’t stop in Apo Island. As we headed back to Sablayan after a modest breakfast with park rangers, we made a stopover in a fishing ground outside the park where we found almost 60 boats of hook and line fishers. My guide, a fisher himself, demonstrated how the fishing situation has improved since the incumbent mayor’s success in pushing commercial fishers away from the municipal waters. True enough, in less than 30 minutes, a fish from the tuna family weighing 2-3 kilograms took the bait. Two more big fishes were caught in less than two hours. According to my guide, the 15 to 25 kilos of fish catch a Sablayan small-scale fisher now enjoys per boat trip is a far cry compared to the 4 to 5 kilos of catch years ago.

The 1980’s saw the height of Apo Reef’s destruction. Most forms of illegal and destructive fishing methods, from cyanide to dynamite fishing, were introduced in the area, endangering at least 385 species of fish and 190 species of corals. Though declared a protected area in 1986, the illegal activities remained unabated and the perpetuators became more pervasive and innovative in their ways to catch more. But the Sablayanos were never too late to save and protect its rich marine resources. The park was eventually closed to all forms of fishing activities last year to give the reef time to recover and replenish. The small-scale fishers are a testament to the tangible benefits from the newfound protection of the park.

Dozing it off
Almost drained of my morning energy, I retreated to the Pandan Island Resort to doze off the lazy afternoon. 16 hectares in size and a stone’s throw away from mainland Sablayan, the island is infused with serenity and rustic ambience. Bungalows are made from native materials and each room is provided with mosquito nets. Fans and air-conditioners are not part of the amenities, but I wouldn’t trade the lounge on a hammock under the trees whilst enjoying the sea breeze. Away from the bustling city of Manila, I found an oasis of solace in this part of Mindoro.

Note: Apo Island of Apo Reef, Occidental Mindoro is not to be confused with Apo Island in Dauin, Negros Oriental.

How to get there:
Asian Spirit has flights from Manila to San Jose every Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays . From San Jose City, the land trip to the Municipality of Sablayan is roughly 2 to 3 hours. From the airport, a tricycle can get you to the bus terminal where you can board a bus bound for Sablayan. Having been visited by tourist over the past decades, Sablayan has become prepared to accommodate tourists with its modest hotels and lodging inns. The courteous local tricycle drivers will be more than willing to point you to any of these.

Manila – San Jose (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays)
Departure     5:20 AM
Arrival          6:10AM

San Jose – Makati (Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays)
Departure   6:30AM
Arrival       7:20AM

Chi Spa at EDSA and Cebu

The world weary traveler will find a welcome harbor at the Chi Spa located in the luxurious Shangri-La hotels in EDSA Shaw in Manila, and Mactan Island in Cebu. Here, one can be coddled with lavish treatments inspired by traditional Asian healing philosophies to restore balance & harmony to the mind & body. Designed as an enclosed village of interlinking structures offering guests the height of privacy and seclusion, the Chi Spa could very well be an escape, a retreat or a dream like the lost kingdom that was its inspiration. Chi features some of the largest private spa villas in Asia, complete with bathing & herbal steam facilities providing guests the luxury of personal space & timelessness.

The Chi Spa embraces a holistic approach to physical and spiritual well-being with an extensive treatment menu, developed in collaboration with experts in traditional Chinese medicine & Himalayan healing philosophies. They offer over 35 specialized body, water, massage & facial therapies drawn from the Chinese philosophy of the 5 elements of metal, water, wood, earth & fire working in balance with the Yin Yang energy within the body. Begin with a Welcome Foot Ritual, followed by the Himalayan Water Ritual and then the Herbal Steam that will prime you for any of the following choices from their half day rituals.

For starters, try the spa’s exquisite Chi Cuisine Lunch menu before undertaking the spa treatments. Their Tropic Serenity Ritual combines four exotic treatments specially developed for Chi – the Barako Coffee Bean Scrub that naturally exfoliates, the Linen and Leaf Wrap that gently rehydrates, and the Chi Balance Massage and Tropical Rejuvenating facial that completes your sense of well-being.

The Vitality Ritual indulges your senses and recharges your body and mind in an experience that combines Uplifting Himalayan Bath Therapy, Futuresse Body Scrub and Firming Wrap, Invigorating Himalayan Healing Stone Massage and the Biodroga Facial. With Paradise Found, you can lose yourself in a voluptuous experience that includes the relaxing Himalayan Bath Ritual, Algae Body Wrap, Chi Balance Signature Massage and the Chi Harmonizing Facial.

The Yin Yang Couples Massage was especially created for couples to harmonize and pleasantly balance the flow of relationship chi between two people. A couple will experience the massage in the same room with two therapists coordinating light rhythmical strokes. Focus is given to specific meridians, releasing tension and restoring peace and harmony.

Discover your own private Shangri-la at the Chi Spa, and luxuriate in its signature treatments, the intuitive touch of their therapists & the restorative powers of their aromatic herbs & spices & fragrant oils. The kingdom that was once lost, you have found. Now, you can surrender yourself to the spell that Chi weaves.

The Chi Spa at Shangri-La
Shangri-La’s Mactan Island Resort & Spa
Punta Engano Road, Lapu-Lapu City 6015 Philippines
Tel. No: (63 32) 231 0288; Telefax: (63 32) 231 1688
E-mail: chi.mac@shangr-la.com
Web Site: www.shangri-la.com/spa

The Chi Spa at EDSA Shangri-La
1 Garden Way, Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong City 1650 Metro Manila Philippines
Tel. No.: (632) 633 8888
Web Site: www.shangri-la.com/spa

Pagudpud, my family and our GPS

Have you ever thought of driving to the northernmost tip of the island of Luzon? It is easy: you hit the North Luzon Expressway, turn left when you get close to Baguio, continue on the coastal route as far as you can go, and when you have reached the tip, you are in Pagudpud.

Pagudpud is less than 600 km from Manila. We started around 5:30 am from Rockwell, had coffee at Tarlac (7:30 am, 125 km), breakfast at Urdaneta (9:15 am, 189 km) and lunch at the surf beach of San Juan (11:15 am, 290 km), just immediately after San Fernando. The lunch place (Surfmaid) was an unexpected discovery; food was good and the surf excellent. The resorts along beach also offered surf lessons! We met a number of boys catching fish on the shallow water. If you like fishing, you probably always stop and ask others about their catch: so we did. They were too proud to show off their colorful catch—soon to be their lunch.
Next stop: Vigan. We stayed overnight at the Villa Angela, which was like the movie, “Night at the Museum”, except nothing came alive at night and there were no wax dolls. Our journey on this sunny Boxing Day started around 10 am after a gorgeous breakfast. Their breakfast, Beef Tapa, was so good that I had to ask for a second and (oops) a third serve. By the time we reached La Union (11 am), the topography had changed; we started climbing uphill until it seemed we had entered a new world. A long strip of road was dotted with shops selling garlic and onions.

Lunch at Laoag. My daughters had steak and French fries, my wife and our help shared a Thai chicken, while I had a sandwich and a can of coke with tons of ice. We finally finished lunch around 2 pm. Another strip of shops: this time the specialization was iodized salt!! I do not know whether it was a local product or they assumed all incoming travelers needed a cheap boost of iodine!!!
Next we were at Bangui. Suddenly we saw one giant wind turbine. This wind farm is the first in Southeast Asia. These 15 turbines can generate about 25 MW of electricity. From the turbines we reached Pagudpud within 15 minutes. How long did it take us? Well, about an hour from Laoag and overall, around 4 hours from Vigan excluding our long lunch. We went to the beach straight way. The sea was superb with its strong waves. As a bonus, we even got a rainbow in the horizon as it rained for few minutes.
As a connoisseur (or addict) of coffee I soon realized that coffee-making was not the strongest attribute of our resort. The last Starbucks was in Tarlac and definitely there was none in the 100 km radius—we looked for alternative sources along the beach. We all liked the beach. It may not be as famous as the Bondi or the Maroubra beach in Sydney, but it radiated the same mystery in its waves. As our room was only few meters from the beach, Her Majesty The Sea stayed close to us through the night: we listened to the lovely loud waves from our bed. The thought of a Tsunami came to my mind a few times but the love for the water and its omnipresent aura wiped out the eerie thoughts.

The next day, we all got up reasonably early and had a swim. The water was fresh and the pounding waves were very strong. Again I went to check the fishermen. They just got back with fresh catch of the day. People were lining up to buy them. They were fresh, I am sure, because I saw one little sardine look-alike still jumping when its freedom (and its “protein content”) were transferred to a stranger in exchange for few pesos.

What to do next? The weather became gloomy, and then the rain started. Lonely Planet mentioned about a “Laguna” somewhere. No one could give us proper directions, but armed with the added confidence that a GPS and a four wheel drive with tank full of petrol affords, we headed north.

My GPS was only showing where we were on a blank screen with no defined waypoints. I knew my latitudes and longitudes but had no clue where we were relative to where we wanted to go. We made the wrong turn and immediately landed on a dirt road through “the real countryside”. We kept on going north, and eventually we reached somewhere—a place with a strong character, different from anywhere I have seen so far in the Philippines.

The landscape was awesome, unique, and so unexpected. I could see on my GPS that we were gradually heading south, so technically we had just crossed the northernmost tip of Luzon. It was misty outside but with the fresh air blowing so strong, we couldn’t help but to get out in that wet weather to feel the breeze. We were at the Patapat Bridge— the 270-degree view of the mountains and the strong sea below was stunning.

The wind, the mist and the vastness reminded me of a cold winter day in the Great Ocean Road of Victoria, Australia—one of the best drives in the world, according to Lonely Planet. The landscape was so similar.

So we started looking for Laguna again, continuing on another dirt road that took us to a brand new resort called the Kapuluan Beach Resort near, yes, finally, the Blue Lagoon. This modern Zen-style architecture with its equally cleverly designed “infinity” pool stood out in this otherwise very basic surrounding. The overall ambience and the fresh air made us hungry again. The resort’s menu had a wide selection and the quality of food made all of us very happy. Frankly, this discovery of ours was quieter and nicer than the Saud Beach Resort at which we were staying.

On our second night, while the water was pounding the shore at its loudest, and the rain was incessant, we decided that it was time to head home. The absence of a good cup of a coffee, cinema, television, wi-fi access to the web, Skype, and all those things that always keep us unnecessarily occupied, created withdrawal symptoms in all of us that we could no longer neglect. This was possibly my FIRST time in more than 10 years that I did not check my e-mail for almost 3 days in a row!

So we made the executive decision to start early and head back directly to Manila the next morning. We started around six, expecting it to be a 10-hour journey back, but it took us 15 hours. Tarlac to Manila was more than 5 hours as I stopped for coffee there on a Friday evening.

Aurna and Rainah, my two daughters, never got bored on this 15-hour journey and from time to time, we all sang “Baum beddi baninininow oh LULU!! (…the title song of the TV cartoon show).

I never thought the trip would be such a memorable one. We liked it very much. You will too. I plan to go up north again sometime soon. May be this time, on the way back we will travel from Vigan via Tagudin to Sagada and Banaue.

I can still hear the song my daughters sang whenever we needed some extra energy: “
Baum beddi baninininow oh LULU!!

Some GPS coordinates
(useful to pinpoint these places either in Google Map or directly in a GPS):

Starbucks at Tarlac:
15* 58’ 5.58” N and 120* 34’ 19.74” E

Chow King at Urdaneta
15* 48’ 26.94” N and 120* 36’ 29.88” E

San Juan Surf Resort
16* 39’ 27.25” N and 120* 19’ 10.20” E
http://www.littlesurfmaidresort.com/index.htm

Saud Beach Resort
18* 34’ 49.37” N and 120* 47’ 14.96” E

Northernmost Point of Luzon
18* 39’ 03.15” N and 120* 50’ 45.32” E

Kapuluan Beach Resort
18* 37’ 37.67” N and 120* 51’ 38.03” E
Blue Lagoon is located at the Maira-ira Point which is the northernmost tip of Luzon. I found this website which has some nice pictures: http://www.marketmanila.com/archives/the-kapuluan-vista-resort-ilocos-norte

72 Moments of Boracay Bliss: a 3-Day Itinerary for Couples in Boracay

How do you spend your three days in Boracay with the person you love? During this romantic season, consider these places, dishes and activities to share with your sweetheart. Celebrate your romance in one of the world’s most beautiful and most dreamy paradises.

Day 1:

Breakfast –
Perched on top of a cliff in Diniwid Beach, Nami Boracay Private Villas will let you experience Boracay in a whole new light. Enjoy a breathtaking view of the beach while living in a luxurious and comfortable environment. Have a romantic breakfast feast in their restaurant, the Manami, and enjoy sumptuous their morning meals back-dropped by a 180-degree view of the island.

Brunch activity –
Let the beauty of the whole island take your breath away from atop Mt. Luho. To those who know, it is the highest peak of Boracay, and it takes only a tricycle and a short hike to get there. Take a tricycle ride worth 100.00 pesos ($2.50) to the foot of the trail, then climb up to the top and feast your eyes on a wide-angled view of this island paradise. Quench your thirst with the cold beers for sale. On a clear day, you’ll see the mesmerizing guitar-shape of Boracay and all its white sand beaches. An ideal island souvenir is your picture taken from here. What a way to start your romantic getaway!

Lunch –
Follow on to Ole Spanish Tapas, Bar & Restaurant, where every day is Valentine’s Day. Celebrate love and the beach life with great Spanish and Mexican food. Ole serves the best Spanish tapas and paellas on the island. Owned by Mr. Steve Zafir, a Florida native who fell in love with our Boracay beach, he has brought outstanding Spanish and Mexican cuisine to the island. House specialties include Gambas al Ajillo, Fajitas, Nachos, and the ever-delectable Paella Valenciana. Another one of their house favorites is the Sangria, a Spanish concoction of red wine, with ample amounts of spirits and fruits. Their freshly fried Churros con Chocolate is also a must-try here, as dessert to end your festive meal, or a sweet afternoon snack. Surrounded by the lively sunny interior of the restaurant and bustling energy of the staff, Ole bursts with music and food that couples will surely enjoy and return to again and again.

Afternoon Activity –
Afternoons are the best time to go island hopping. Be sure to see the Crystal caves located at Laurel Island and pass by the fascinating crocodile-shaped island. The boat will take you to a nice snorkeling spot to see the exotic fish native to here – bring crackers so you can feed the fishes (their bites will tickle you!). As if on demand, buko (coconut) vendors will sell drinks just when you need them – and so you won’t get thirsty on that hot summer date.

Dinner –
Spend your first night over an Italian dinner at Aria Bar & Restaurant. Feel the fine Boracay sand between your toes as you dine with your sweetheart over a candlelight setting by the shores. Named one of the best restaurants in the country, Aria fills the air with romance and food. Besides the classic pasta meals such as Spaghetti Bolognese and Carbonara, try the Boscaiola, a chef’s special featuring truffles and asparagus. Special main dishes include Lamb with Rosemary, Baked Chicken and Grilled Prawns. Aria is also the best place to make memories; like your personal genie, the restaurant can also grant your request for a romantic evening meant for lovers.

Night Activity –
After dinner, get ready to watch the exciting show of Boracay’s fire-dancers. Sometimes they perform in groups or in solos. And whenever they do their fire-dancing, it sure will leave your heart pumping for more of their incredible twirls and swirls. Next head on to Hey Jude! Bar & Bistro where they serve a long list of drinks that would please everyone. Now, here is a romantic drink suggested by the bar: René Barbier 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, a luscious, rich-tasting, ruby-red sparkling wine – just right for a romantic evening. Best served chilled and shared with the person you love. A night of dancing and the perfect wine for drinking, Hey Jude! Bar ends your first day in Boracay celebrating “amour”.

Day 2:

Breakfast –
Nigi Nigi Nu Noos Too is a favorite for young couples with its modern look and location on the honeymoon side of Boracay Island. Begin your day with a fresh brewed coffee, a cream-topped cappuccino, or one of their scrumptious fruit shakes. Get ready for a hearty breakfast feast. Choose from generous servings of Tapas with witty-shaped garlic rice, fruits wrapped up in a big pancake with honey and maple syrup, and mutual continental breakfast favorites. Brace yourself as they dish up all the eggs you can eat! Did you know that the record for the most number of eggs eaten here is 25?! A great place to start your day, Nigi Nigi is also the spot to relax and talk about anything under the sun. Try asking the married owners, Jason and Del Probyn about their resort’s unusual name and you’ll end up asking for more of their delicious food. With their personal touch and efficient service, Nigi Nigi nu Noos will take care of your Boracay morning quite nicely.

Brunch Activity –
After that hearty breakfast it’s time to have fun on the beach. Play Frisbee or volleyball for on-the-beach activities or try the banana boat and the flying fish for water-loving couples. For tandem activities, pairs can go kayaking and go parasailing together. Whatever the activity is, it’s always fun to pair up.

Lunch –
You haven’t experienced Boracay if you have not tried a Jonah’s fruit shake. Better yet, find a favorite. Thick and delicious, slurping these will make you wish the drink in the glass will never end. From its humble beginnings as a fruit-shake stall, it is now a famous island establishment and has expanded their menu with salads, pastas and sandwiches. But some things never change: Jonah’s fruit shakes are so irresistible that they can be a drink, dessert and just the right pick-me-up on that hot Boracay day.

Afternoon –
For a real water adventure, go scuba diving with your partner. Several scuba diving schools and rental shops exist along the white beach, and scuba instructors are also available for beginners. A recommended Scuba diving school is the Lapu-Lapu Diving Center. For another terrific photo souvenir, consider this activity as scuba rentals now provide waterproof camera and video cams so you can capture your scuba experience. Whatever you do under there, make it memorable!

Dinner –
Experience the dance of the cool evening wind while dining on the dreamy terrace of Boracay Steakhouse. Sit by the restaurant’s terrace to have a peaceful view of the sand and ocean from White Beach. The menu selections span influences from Filipino, American, German, and Swiss cuisine, and all are available from midmorning until the late evening. The array of sausages, salads and desserts will make you drool, but the restaurant’s claim to fame is its supreme steak meals. Imported meat from Australia is cooked to perfection and according to your wish, guaranteeing a tender meal and tantalizing taste. We recommend their beef tenderloin with Dijon Mustard for dressing, and mashed potatoes for satisfaction and delight. Let the night wind, the ambiance, and the hot kitchen add a bit of “coziness” to your evening.

Night Activity –
End the night with a peaceful walk on the beach. Sandcastles line the beachfront and, lit with candles, will light your way as you enjoy the acoustic sounds from the different night spots. And don’t forget to shift your gaze upwards...

Day 3:

Breakfast –
Real Coffee will literally brighten your morning. Owned by Ms. Nadine and her mother Lee, this Boracay hangout lets the two of you chat while enjoying any number of homemade goodies on their menu. From salads to sandwiches to French toasts, Real Coffee is your morning meal expert and more. Did I mention their pesto is made from scratch? The place serves all kinds of mouthwatering baked goods fresh from the oven. Why not start the day with cookies? Calamansi muffins? Made with real butter and the only place in Boracay making them. Also try their brownies, the best on the island. As suggested to us, heat it in the microwave for a few seconds, then add vanilla ice cream and whipped cream on top with a few squirts of strawberry sauce. Now that’s a dreamy dessert for your date.

Brunch Activity –
Spend the rest of your morning shopping at D’Mall. Located smack dab in the middle of Station 2 of White Beach, this long commercial plaza offers a wide selection of stores and restaurants. The best place to buy your souvenirs and beach items, compare D’Mall as your tropical equivalent to the regular malls in the city – but far more relaxed.

Lunch—
For your lunch date on the island, make it the most relaxing, under the shades of Palomaria trees. The Lazy Dog Bed and Breakfast offers you a personal sanctuary in the middle of the island. Eat in their new restaurant, The Courtyard Bistro, a romantic scene with comfortable dining area; a perfect place to spend the afternoon and have a delightful leisurely experience with your loved one – stay as long as you like! Steaks grilled to your liking and seafood favorites await. Complement this with your choice of beverages from cocktails to shakes, and even a selection of wines. Who says lazy can’t be classy? A private haven with your partner, The Courtyard Bistro at The Lazy Dog Bed and Breakfast promises to add a special touch to your Boracay daytime.

Afternoon Activity—
They say that the best way to watch the Boracay sunset is by paraw sailing. Share with your sweetheart this precious experience by renting a paraw during sunset. Bring with you an Ipod with speakers, special snacks and even champagne to celebrate your wonderful time together in Boracay.

Dinner—
On your last night on the romantic island of Boracay, spend your last meal on the cozy corner of Cyma Restaurant. This little bistro is known for its signature blue and white interiors and more importantly for its delectable Greek dishes. One of their must tries is the mouth-watering Roka Solata, a hearty salad perfect for 2. Another dish to experience is the flaming cheese (opa!) and Cyma’s signature lamb chops.

Night Activity—
You and your loved one should experience a heavenly and soulful retreat through one of the Romantic Spa Packages at Mandala Spa & Villas and Tirta Spa. At Mandala, try the Watsu for two, where you are cradled in a specially heated pool to help you unwind and relax the night away. Also try the Zen Touch. Here, couples are taught how to give and receive from each other through the presence of touch. At the opulent atmosphere of Tirta, you can experience their signature Pulot Gata (Honeymoon Ritual) treatment which is a recommended relaxing experience for those who plan to take their vows on the island. The package includes a series of indulging body scrubs, soothing baths and massages that will help you prepare before your big day.

1) How to Get There:
Most airlines have routes from Manila to either Caticlan or Kalibo, Aklan. From Kalino, visitors have to travel 2 hours by land going to Caticlan. From there, tourists must proceed to the Jetty Port, pay the environmental fee (Php 50.00) and ride a pumpboat (for Php 20.00) going to the island of Boracay.

Asian Spirit
Reservation Hotline: (632) 855 3333
www.asianspirit.com

Air Philippines
Reservation Hotline: (632) 855 9000
www.airphils.com

Cebu Pacific
Reservation Hotline: (632) 702 0888
www.cebupacificair.com

Philippine Airlines
Reservation Hotline (632) 855 8888
www.philippineairlines.com

SEAir
Reservation Hotline: (632) 849 0100
www.flyseair.com

2) Accommodation:
Ask your travel agent or hit the net, every budget and tastes are catered to here. Most places offer low-season and walk-in rates, and negotiation for room rates is acceptable. High seasons (and there are several-December to February, summer season and others) can make rooms a bit scarce, so plan ahead.

Earth, Wind, Fire…and Water

The word adventure is like the word love. Everyone has their own definition of what it means and their own way of experiencing it. Some people go to Boracay to get away from it all - to relax and do nothing. Others go with the spirit of adventure- they crave the sand and beach as much as anyone but they want to “experience” Boracay with an action verb in mind. Fortunately for the Boracay-bound, this is an island which truly offers something for everyone… whether you want to be on top of the sea, under it or above, you will find something to capture your energy and turn it into great memories!

Speed lovers can take a ride on a jet ski, where you drive your own destiny, speeding up or slowing down while riding each wave. Each jet ski seats up to 3 people and costs P2000 for 30 minutes. For a more relaxing group ride, grab some friends or take the opportunity to make new ones while straddling a giant yellow “banana boat”, skimming the waves at up to 30 kph. Each inflatable, sausage-shaped boat fits 12 people, and with a minimum ride of 5 people, costs P250 per person for 15 minutes.

If you want to feel like you are flying but haven’t found your own wings yet, parasailing is a great alternative. Attach yourself to a harness lifted up to the sky in a speedboat driven parachute and enjoy the island from a different perspective. Parachutes carry 1-3 people at a time and, at 400 meters from the White Beach, can take you up to 1000 feet!

For those who prefer to test their strength and determination, try a ride on the “flying fish”, a towable inflatable device designed to stand up vertically when driven at high speeds. Boats tow you at up to 45 kilometers per hour and at a cost of P600 per person for 15 minutes, each flying fish holds 3-6 people.

In case you find yourself curious about what beauty lies underneath the sea but don’t want to get your feet wet, try the “Nemo” Glass Bottom Boat Ride. Guests enjoy a two-hour leisure boat ride leaving from Station 3 of White Beach and traveling to an area near Crocodile Island while watching the sea life and corals through the glass floor beneath their seats throughout the journey! The 40-seater fiber bottom boat departs at 2 p.m. daily. This unique experience costs P750 for adults and P300 for children age 1-5 years. This price includes snacks, drinks and snorkeling equipment for those who want to take a closer look.

During the moments when you find that you’ve had enough sea and sand, yet still want to explore parts of paradise that others don’t usually see, try a horseback ride! The Boracay Horse Riding Stables caters to all levels, from complete novice to experienced rider, and the main 1 to 2-hour guided trail ride takes you up to the highest point of the island and down to Bulabog Beach. Both English and Western saddles are available, and in keeping with the island theme, all you need is a pair of long pants (jogging pants can be borrowed from the stable upon request) - no special footwear is needed! Group rides of up to 12 people are available and although the best time to ride is during the morning or late afternoon, special trips at sunrise or by moonlight can also be arranged.

If you want a change from the view seen from land, a trip down into the world beneath Boracay is recommended. For those unsure of how they feel about learning to see ocean life close up, try a PADI introductory 2-hour program (P3500). For vacationers who have always wanted to dive but never had the time, spend your seemingly endless hours on the island wisely by taking a 3 to 4-day Open Water dive course (P21,000). Beginner divers can explore Fridays rock, a popular fish feeding spot; intermediates can explore the Camia II, a 30 meter long sunken ship which has created an artificial reef; and for advanced divers, check out Yapak, where sightings of tuna and sharks are common. Fun dives for licensed divers cost P1600 with equipment.

The wind in Boracay is just as famous as the sea, and for those who appreciate a good gust, kiteboarding is a must-do! With flat and shallow warm water, consistent side onshore winds and big reef breaks allowing for radical moves, Bulabog Beach is fast becoming known as Asia’s most popular kiteboarding spot. Best enjoyed during the Amihan season of November until March, beginners will enjoy the wide selection of licensed, multi-lingual instructors available at the many kite schools. Expert kiters will enjoy doing elaborate tricks in perfect kite surfing conditions. Kite and board rentals for a half-day minimum cost P2835 and include free kite caddie assistance plus the use of a locker and shower. Licensed instructors use the International Kiteboarding Association manual and provide certification in all level courses. An IKO level 1-2 course costs P18,303 and is given daily over a 4-day period, depending on wind and tide conditions.
If the idea of maneuvering a kite sounds too complex, try out windsurfing, which feels like sailing, except you become the sail! Beginners take their board and sail into the water accompanied by a teacher and within 5 hours of lessons (costing P5500), they can learn the basics such as balancing, pulling the sail out of the water, riding, steering with the sails and turning.

For adventurers who like to play with fire, take a lesson in the uniquely Boracay created art of “fire dancing”. Originally just traditional moves using a “poi” (a fabric-wrapped piece of metal attached to a chain), the islanders added music to this New Zealand originated practice and turned this activity into one of the most impressive pieces of entertainment on the beach. A 3-hour private lesson for P2500 is a great source of cardio exercise and provides not just toning for the upper body and hips, but also a chance to practice your coordination skills. The price includes your own poi so rest assured that you can take what you have learned on your next vacation. All you need is open space and a mind to move! Call Anne at 0915 552 2463.

Travel Notes
Domestic carriers have several flights daily from Manila to Boracay via Caticlan.

Contact Information for Boracay Activities:
All water sports are available at Diamond Water Sports, open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. and located along White Beach near Station 1 (near Jonah’s Fruit Shakes). Call (63 36) 288 6681 for more information.

For the Nemo Glass Bottom Boat Ride, contact Roland at (63 36) 288 4599 or 0918 490 5619.

The Boracay Horse Riding Stables are located just before Fridays Beach Resort on the main road. Call Brenda at (63 915) 564 2427 or email horsestable@yahoo.com.

Boracay Scuba is located along beach at Station 1 beside Jony’s Resort. Call (63 36) 288 5780 or (63 929) 5306624.

The Hangin Kite Center has 2 locations- one at the Green Yard Funboard at the south of Bulabog Beach and the other at the Northern part of the same “windy beach.” Call (63 36) 288 3208 / 2662 or check out www.kiteboardingBoracay.com. The Freestyle Kiteboarding Center can be found from November to May next to Gumamela homes on the same beach, and from June to October on Station 1 of White Beach. You may call (63 36) 288 6965 / 288 5780 or visit their website www.freestyle-boracay.com.

The Funboard Center Boracay is located on Bulabog Beach and rents windsurf equipment for all levels. Call (63 36) 288 3876 or visit www.windsurfasia.com.

A Harvest Holiday

Laing Recipe

Heritage Down the Northern Coast

New Horizons in the Far East

Silence in the Cordilleras

Into the Heart of a Sleeping Beast

Dream Island

Secret Aquatic Paradise

A Hilltop Hideaway

12 Best Spas of the Philippines

Tubbataha Expedition

Diving Into the Divine

The Last Frontier

Northern Samar Highlights

Yoga: An Elemental Journey at Edsa Chi

In Harmony

An Urbanite’s Ultimate Escape

Where the Sea Meets the Sky

A Tropical Eden

Tradition Revisited

The Spa Acropolis: The Ultimate City Escape

Luxury Redefined

Spa 6750

The Secret Garden’s Secret Salon

Lovingly Filipino

Royal Opulence at the Lazuli Spa

The Dinagyang Festival in Iloilo

Discover the Giant Lanterns of Pampanga

Hospitality at Its Finest: Amuma Spa

Back to Nature

Nurture by Nature

Lightness of Being

Le Spa at the Sofitel Philippine Plaza

Rendezvous Lasema: Spa from Seoul

Regal Pampering in a Spa Kingdom

Cafe Adriatico

Macahambus Adventure Park

Experience Jungle Environmental Survival Training & Jungle Joe’s

The Northern Isles

Camiguin Calling

Fish Out of Water

Portico 1771

Abe's Farm in Pampanga

10 Great Ways to Enjoy Tuna

Genuine Filipino Hospitality at the White Rock Resort in Subic

Pearl Farm Resort in Samal Island

Bahura Resort and Spa

Visit Romantic Antulang

Manila Ocean Park

Intramuros: Light and Sound Museum and Fort Santiago

Island Banca Cruises

Davao Crocodile Park Complex

Magical Galera Casts Its Spell

A Little Bit of Everything at Mogambo Springs

Palawan Honeymoon Destinations

Lake Caliraya

La Cocina de Tita Moning

The Masskara Festival

Hot Air Balloon Festival

Weaving History: T’Boli Craft in Davao

A Hamlet in the Mountains

Purple Feet

Creamy Desserts Overwhelm Diners At Tivoli

Kape Isla

Courtyard Bistro

CAV

Chef Laudico Bistro Filipino

Basilio's

Attivo

Saramsam Cafe

Devarana Spa: Garden in Heaven

Aloha Palawan

The Perfect Spa Prescription

Succumbing to the Spell of Siquijor

Seized by a Sunset

Nature's Escape

Adventure Bliss

Wakeboarding at CWC

The Legendary Palawan Experience

Unveiling Sagada

Choose Your Own Negros Adventure

A-Kayaking We Will Go

The Jetscape Adventure

The El Nido Experience: Surreal, Wonderful... Priceless

Wind Riders and the Art of Taming a Kite

Megafauna of Donsol: Seeking the Company of Sharks

Whale and Dolphin Watching

Not much is known in the Philippines for marine voyeurism except for accidental encounters with the aquatic wild. Not many know of the interactive part of marine preservation. But in a number of places here in the Philippines, towns and island resorts flourish because of tracking and chasing down dolphins and whales. Here in our own country, there are places where one could observe these marine creatures in their natural environment. A couple of such places where we have been are Bais City in Negros Oriental and Pamilacan Island in the province of Bohol, both of which have fed our thirst for adventure.

But then you make ask, what adventure? There isn’t much to see aside from the whales and the dolphins really. But that is precisely the point of the adventure – to be in tune with the nothingness (aside from the sight), and to experience the sudden slowness of time that only being one with the wild could bring.

Bais City is a town normally thriving with sugarcane as their primary source of income, but a few people here have dedicated their lifestyles to preserving common dolphins and earn at the same time. Here is where it is easiest to finds dolphins they say, even marine science students from nearby universities do their studies and data gathering here. Pamilacan Island, on the other hand, is a resort island south of Bohol. This place has been a favorite vacation haven for foreign tourists. What most people do not know is that the waters around this island are dolphin feeding ground, most specifically the Cervera Shoal. After Cervera was declared as a marine sanctuary, fishing in this area was prohibited so as not to deprive these dolphins of fish, their primary food.

Bais City lies at the bosom of the North and South Bais Bays just north of Dumaguete. When we got to the Bais Dolphin and Whale Watching Wharf, some four or five Koreans were already getting on an outrigger so we ran to catch up and join their group. We cruised towards the mouth of the bay. After not so long a time, dolphins came out of nowhere and approached our bangka from the front, dove down deep and rejoined us just below the bow as if the bangka was one of them. It really was not hard looking for the dolphins, in fact, they were too accommodating for approaching our bangka by their own.

Unfortunately, the foreigners were the ones who were in front so they had their turn of observing the dolphins before I did. When I got my turn, some of the dolphins have seemed to have left and only four of them remained wandering and spinning just under the keel. The sun was high up in the sky and the water was warm, I reached down as low as I could and run my fingers on top of the water. These creatures seemed very friendly indeed. In the short time I was running my fingers through the surface of the water, I sensed some connection with the dolphins. One of them would follow the direction of my hand – and it made my heart skip a beat. I did not sense the Koreans behind me for those moments. It was just me and the dolphins. No wonder people have come to know Bais as one of the best places to find and interact with dolphins.

Another of our dolphin encounters was around Pamilacan Island, the Cervera Shoal. From south of Panglao Island, all those loaded boats leave for Cervera Shoal at the same time at around 2.30 in the afternoon. It is at this time, they say, that the dolphins are most likely to be found. True enough, even from afar, all those in the same boat as we were attempting to stand just to see fins protruding out of the water surface. It was like a fluvial parade with every boat racing to get the best spot at the middle of the shoal.

It was here that we realized how shallow the shoal was. The water was crystal clear and we could see the white sand from beneath the shadows of the dolphins. At first there were six, then, from nowhere came many more. It was actually an entire pod of dolphins numbering to around thirty or so who graced us.

People were cheering the dolphins; whistling, clapping and doing strange sounds as if calling out for the creatures. Flashes were everywhere as well, as pictures are only what one could have from Cervera Shoal. It was hard to get to the dolphins at Cervera Shoal, but all the hassle was meager to top the experience of being with the dolphins.

Moments after, we heard some screaming – and happy at that. When we looked starboard, we saw the magnificence of a whale breaching. It was humongous; I think close enough, it could swallow me whole. But there was no fear in us and the visitors we were with. For a moment, there we were, only watching the whale put up a show for us. Imagine a scene from Free Willy; it was a bit like that, but much more exhilarating. All of us watchers succumbed to silence. I think nobody breathed. I could only smell the sea, and feel the heat of the sun on my cheeks. And in all of these, was a smile I could only imagine was on the face of the whale.

Our adventures in both islands still give me chills down my spine as I remember them. The excitement is still very much alive. And given a chance, we would go back to both sites, and perhaps continue our exploration in other sites as well. It is always a worthwhile trip to take. Whale and dolphin watching gave the sense that we were one with the marine life, that we were part of the sea. We live every day as it is now. We explore the seas, we dance with the waves. And every time the sea reflects the sky, we are on the look-out for dolphins and whales to take our breath away.

Travel Notes
Domestic carriers have daily flights from Manila to Dumaguete in Negros Oriental and Tagbilaran in Bohol.

Useful Numbers:
Negros Oriental:
Bais Tourism Office (63 35)541 5161 / 402 8174
Bohol:
Pamilacan Island Dolphin and Whale Watching Tours (63 38) 540 9279 / (63 38)540 9376
whales.bohol.ph/index.php

Where to stay in Panglao Island

Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa
Brgy. Tawala, Panglao Island, Bohol
www.eskayabeach.com

Flushing Meadows Resort & Playground
Brgy. Dao, Dauis, Panglao Island, Bohol
www.flushingmeadows.com.ph

Where to stay in Bais City

Bahia de Bais Hotel
Bais City, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 402 8850 / 402 8851

La Planta Hotel
Bais City, Negros Oriental
(63 35) 403 8321 / 541 5755

Ultralight Flying

Discovering a Surfing Paradise: Siargao

Closer to the Sky

Luxury Camping

Taking the Silent Path

Not for the Faint Spirit

Southbound Sunday

A New Way to Ride: The Pasig River Ferry

“Revive the river of our dreams”
-A sign painted on the span at Mandaluyong Bridge

A New Way to Ride: The Pasig River Ferry

“Revive the river of our dreams”
-A sign painted on the span at Mandaluyong Bridge

In Bangkok, years back, I remember being impressed with how the Thais utilized the Chao Phraya River, which bustled with ferries and boats of all description, and their canals, which are plied by motorized boats moving at an impossibly fast clip. Ice cream men sold their frozen treats from speed boats to people in riverside parks, and it made me wonder why there was nothing even close to that on Manila’s Pasig River. Mind you, the Pasig is not near the same in scale as the 400 kilometer long Chao Phraya, but it always seemed like an under utilized resource. The Pasig River is an interesting geographical feature, as it is technically a tidal estuary connecting Manila Bay with Laguna de Bay Lake, and stretches 26 kilometers in its entirety. Along its lengths, it passes through 8 cities and 3 municipalities. It averages a 50 meter width, and a 4 to 6 meter depth. Yes, it was declared biologically dead in the 1990’s, due to pollutants coming from both along the rivers length and on the lake, but things are looking up, and organizations such as the Pasig River Rehabilitation Program (www.prrc.com.ph), are working hard to breathe life back into the river.

Another sign that the Pasig is being rehabilitated into functional use is the establishment of the Pasig River Ferry, with its fleet of 6 comfortable twin-hulled, double-engined passenger boats that ply the river about ten times a day over 24 of its 26 kilometers, with 14 stops total. The inauguration of the ferry route early last year is a visible sign that the city of Manila is getting itself together, and is becoming a more traveler-friendly city. With 3 light rail systems up and running well, more on the way, and now the Ferry, Manila is getting criss-crossed with convenient options for seeing the city. The ferry is a perfect way to get around, for both commuters and tourists alike, and its route stretches along a cross-section of the city that shows all walks of it’s life, in rawest form-from gorgeous to ghastly.

After hearing about the Ferry in enthusiastic stories from photographer John Chua, I took a trip from Guadalupe to Jones Bridge, turning a boring errand at the nearby Bureau of Immigration office into a sightseeing jaunt through Manila. Not only was it about the same length of time (about an hour), it was also a third the price of a taxi (45 Pesos, cheaper for students) and about a hundred times more interesting. With its spacious seating (boats can accommodate up to 150 people nicely), air conditioned compartments and on-board movies, it was at least twice as comfortable, as well. Stations are remarkably efficient, shiny and well-serviced, with comfortable waiting areas. You see a wide variety of things on the river, from kids swimming out to mid-river buoys, basketball games in unnamed baranggays, esteros or small tributaries, once used for banca traffic in the days of old, periodically joining the Pasig’s mainflow, and ship crews on watercraft of various descriptions, at work or relaxing between trips from Manila to whatever foreign port they just arrived from.

Passengers swing by dozens of places you don’t see from the road, and avid travelers will note a multitude of sites they will surely want to return to. Structures spotted from the river span show architectural styles that tell the story of Manila’s colonial past, with buildings exhibiting Spanish, American and homegrown influences among others. Dozens of new parks, wharfs and other projects show the vigor possessed by river rehabilitators, who are fixing up the Pasig.

The downstream terminus station near the Immigration office is at Plaza Mexico, which celebrates 450 years of the Mexico-Manila Galleon trade, and makes for an easy staging point for those visiting Intramuros, Rizal Museum, Luneta Park, and the National Museum. The Escolta station at the foot of Jones bridge (which is where the Philippine-American war was started, and which, along with the nearby Post Office, is one of the few structures that survived the intense bombing at the Battle of Manila, at end of World War II) is a great place from which to explore Binondo, Divisoria and Recto. A stop at Lawton allows tourists to visit the Arroceros Park, beautifully foliaged on the riverbanks. Passing the Pasig’s only island, the Isla de Convalescencia, with its orphanage, keep an eye out for Malacañang Palace, the official residence of the President of the Philippines. Note the riverfront back door, from which President Joseph Estrada slunk out by motorboat when his front door was blocked by angry protestors demanding his ouster in 2001.

The Ferry passes several universities as it passes by Sta. Mesa, such as the Polytechnic University of the Philippines (PUP) and keep your eye open for riverside horse stables as you pass the Sta. Ana Racetrack. Stops by Makati City Hall and Mandaluyong Bridge make hopping on a breeze for travelers. Pulling into the Guadalupe station by Edsa, the river passes by PowerPlant mall and the Rockwell Commercial Center, and the contrast of towering, shiny skyscrapers and a bustling modern shopping district is a jarring contrast to some of the more, uh…rudimentary structures in the rivers lower reaches. The station at Guadalupe is walking distance from the EDSA MRT Line, connecting nicely for easy, cheap commuting/traveling, and above Guadalupe are 3 more stations in Pasig City, all the way up to the upper terminus at Kalawaan Bridge. Future plans have stations located up the Marikina River, which joins the Pasig upriver from C-5, making the ferry even more functional.

As one passes along the banks, my imagination falls back on photos I’ve seen from the late 1800’s, and I remember reading that early Spanish settlers set up fences to keep out river crocodiles. I think of the evocative images from Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere, with Ibarra sneaking upriver into Laguna de Baia hidden under cogon leaves, and the opening pages of El Filibusterismo, which finds the characters navigating the windy course of the Pasig River, still wild and tree-lined. This river made Manila, but some have forgotten it even exists. As I finish my trip, I notice another sign painted across another one of the 13 bridges that cross the Pasig’s length, and I am reminded that this river, too, has great potential, and there are those that know this. I smile as our ferry pulls into the jetty, as I read to myself the sign: “Resurrecting Pasig River- Alive Again!”

Travel Notes
The Pasig River Ferry fares are from Php 25, 35 and 45 per ticket. Php 20 flat rates are given to students while senior citizens are given 20% discounts.

Museum Hopping in the Metro

A few years ago, I struck up a conversation with someone. He was in his mid-20s, had an American accent, but looked completely Filipino. Turns out, his parents were Filipino, but he had been born and raised in the States. All his life, he’d been actively trying to discover what being Filipino meant – even taking up a couple of classes in college. So when an opportunity for him to spend a few months here on an exchange program came, he grabbed it. I asked him what he’d seen of the city so far, and was horrified to hear that his cousins had told him that there wasn’t really anything to see but MegaMall!

“What about Intramuros?” I asked. “Or the museums?”

All he’d seen so far were the malls.

Unfortunately, Manilenos are largely ignorant of the fact that their city is rich in history, and has a number of really excellent museums. In Intramuros alone, there are 3 museums: Casa Manila, Bahay Tsinoy and the San Agustin Museum. Casa Manila is a faithful replica of the Spanish era bahay na bato. It paints a charming picture of the lifestyle of a well-to-do Filipino of those times. The San Agustin Museum is a record of 300 years of Spanish occupation in religious paintings, santos, and other religious artifacts. And while the Spanish think they “discovered” these islands, the Chinese were actually here centuries ahead of them. Bahay Tsinoy defines the identity of the Chinese-Filipinos in this country. Plan on spending about an hour in each place.

If it’s an over-view of Philippine history that you’re after, just a 5-minute drive away (without traffic) is the National Museum. It is housed in two separate American Occupation Era buildings: the old Senate Building holds the National Art Gallery and the old Finance Building, the main museum. Walk into the art gallery’s Hall of Masters first to see what is probably the most famous painting by a Filipino, Juan Luna’s Spoliarium, an allegorical depiction of Spain’s treatment of her colony. Also in the main gallery are other works by Luna, as well as a good number of Hidalgos. Climb up to the second floor to the Hall of National Artists for the Visual Arts where you’ll find abstract paintings by Legazpi, Ocampo, Joya, portraits by Amorsolo and BenCab, busts by Tolentino, sculptures by Abueva and Navarro. After you’ve looked your fill, cross Finance Road and make your way to the main museum.

Splurge a little and get the P350 Guide to the Museum of the Filipino People from the museum office to the left of the main entrance, then enter the first gallery, a walk-in diorama of the wreck of the San Diego. The San Diego was a Spanish trading ship, which sank in a battle on December 14, 1600 off the shores of Batangas. Three galleries on two floors in the museum are devoted to the large number of artifacts found in the wreck. Also in the museum, is an extensive collection of pre-colonial pottery salvaged from various wrecks -- evidence of trade between the Philippines and its neighbors long before the coming of the Spanish. Another gallery holds evidence of pre-historic civilization in the Philippines. You can very easily spend half a day exploring the National Museum.

From here, another 5 minutes of driving to Roxas Boulevard will bring you to the Museo Pambata, a fun, interactive learning experience for kids. Here, kids can learn about history, science, and the environment among a host of other things. They also have regular story telling sessions, performances, seminars and workshops. You can leave your kids here while you head on over to the Money Museum and the Metropolitan Museum in the Central Bank Complex, also on Roxas Boulevard.

The Money Museum traces the evolution of money in the Philippines – from bartering to the present day money-based economy. Here you can see samples of currency used during different periods of our history. It also has an excellent collection of rare and unusual coins from all over the world.

Also in the Central Bank complex is the Metropolitan Museum. The ground and second floors hold exhibits that change regularly and talks by the artists are often part of the exhibits. The museum also hosts traveling exhibits from other parts of the world so there’s always something new to see here. The only permanent installations are the gold and pottery exhibits in the basement,

Moving to the central business district of Makati, you’ll find one of the best museums in the country right smack in the middle of the mall area. The Ayala Museum has long been a regular stop for students on field trips. They’re best known for their dioramas depicting major events in Philippine history. With the recent renovation, the museum has been transformed into a bright, well-designed, ultra-modern space with interesting interactive displays. The dioramas are still there, but modern events are now shown via well-produced videos. At P95, the book, The Diorama Experience, is a must since most of the dioramas don’t have any explanation regarding the events they depict. The museum has a small collection of works by the masters like Luna & Hidalgo as well as a number of Fernando Zobel, Sr.’s paintings and other memorabilia.

You can access the ground to the 3rd floors for P150. If you want to go all the way to the 4th floor, the fee is P225. The extra P75 is well worth it. There is a semi-permanent display of pre-Spanish jewelry and other objects all made out of gold, a very large collection of ceramics and clothing from the late 1800. I suggest you take the time to watch the excellent mini documentaries that come with each display. It puts everything you see into better perspective. If you read and watch everything, 3 hours might not be enough to go through the entire museum. If you have foreign visitors and plan to hit only one museum, I strongly suggest you take them here.

Like the Metropolitan Museum, the Lopez Museum & Library in the Ortigas Business District has no permanent display. It’s a small intimate space that also holds a library. The displays are changed twice a year. A guide takes you around the museum and answers all your questions. But because of this, they can only take 3 groups at a time. If you’re not in a hurry, browse through their impressive collection of rare books and periodicals in the library.
Go to the northern end of Metro Manila to the city of Marikina and you’ll find the Philippine Science Centrum. Another popular field trip destination, it’s an interactive science museum where kids have fun while learning. The museum aims to change students’ perception of math and science as difficult or boring.

And finally, a little further into Marikina, the shoe capital of the Philippines, you’ll find the Shoe Museum. If recent history is your thing, then you’ll want to check out this place. The museum is small but they’ve got about 700 pairs of shoes from the world-famous collection of Imelda Marcos. They’ve also got footwear that belonged to past presidents of the country.

It would be impossible to hit all these museums in one day. But if you find yourself not doing anything on a Saturday or Sunday, you could easily visit 2 or 3. It is never a waste of time to rediscover our rich heritage, re-learn our past and remember how interesting this city is. So the next time you’re asked what there is to do in Manila, you’ve got a well-planned itinerary ready.

Travel Notes

Casa Manila
Intramuros Admin, Gen. Luna St., Intramuros, Manila
Tuesday to Sunday 9am – 6pm
Admission: P50
Teachers & students with ID P25

Bahay Tsinoy
Kaisa-Angelo King Heritage Center
#32 Anda cor. Cabildo Streets, Intramuros
Admission: P100

San Agustin Museum
2/F San Agustin Monastery, Gen. Luna St. cor Real St., Intramuros, Manila
Daily 9am – 12pm, 1pm - 5pm
Admission P100

National Museum
Teodora Valencia Circle, Rizal Park, Manila
Wednesday to Sunday – 10am – 4:30pm
Admission: Adult – P150
Free on Sundays

Museo Pambata
Roxas Boulevard corner South Drive, Manila
Tuesday to Saturday ¬-- 8am – 5pm (Aug - Mar)
9am – 5pm (Apr - Jul)
Sundays 1pm – 5pm
Children and Adults P100.00
Manila residents (with valid ID) free on Tuesdays and 50% discount on other
Days

Central Bank Money Museum
Central Bank Complex, Roxas Blvd. Pasay City
Monday to Friday 9am -12pm, 1pm – 4pm
Free admission

Metropolitan Museum
Central Bank Complex
Daily 9am – 6pm
Admission: P80

Ayala Museum
Makati Ave. cor. De La Rosa Street, Ayala Center, Makati City
Tuesday to Friday 9am – 6pm
Saturdays & Sundays 10am – 7pm
Admission for residents: P225
For non-residents: P350

Lopez Museum & Library
G/F Benpres Bldg., Exchange Rd. cor. Meralco Ave., Ortigas
Daily 8am – 5pm
Admission: P100

Philippine Science Centrum
E-Com Bldg., Riverbanks Center , Barangka, Marikina City
Monday to Saturday 8pm – 5pm
Admission Fees
Adults/ Students P 90/pax (for 1 1⁄2 hrs.)
Teachers and children under 2 yrs. old - free

Marikina Shoe Museum
J.P. Rizal St, San Roque, Marikina (across Our Lady of the Abandoned
Church)
Daily 8am - 5pm
Admission: P20

Montalban Nostalgia

A Day in the Bay Area

To the Brim: A Drive Around Laguna de Bay

Reliving the Filipino Religious Heritage

Guardians of the Caves

Riding the Wake in Calatagan's Man-Made Lake

When I woke up, the first thing I thought was, I couldn’t move. Then I smiled. My second thought was, “That was the best adrenaline rush ever!” And I wanted more.

The day before was the start of another weekend. I’ve started calling my weekend adventures as field trips. And on this particular weekend, my friend and I were set to have a field trip to Lago de Oro in Calatagan, Batangas.

Long before movie stars and rich kids flipped and flopped with their wakeboards in Camarines Sur, local adventurers already knew of this playground for water sports enthusiasts in Calatagan. I constantly look for new things to discover and so when my friends, who shared the same passion for adventure, told me about Lago de Oro Resort and its cable wake boarding facility, it wasn’t long before I was on the road.

It only takes a little more than a two-hour ride from Manila to get to Lago de Oro Resort. We took the South Super Highway, then exited at Sta. Rosa and passed by Tagaytay. From Tagaytay, we drove towards Nasugbu and turned right past the Uni-Oil gas station. The road goes straight for a while. When you start seeing truckloads of sugarcanes (or start smelling molasses), the Sugar Mill is expected at the intersection. We turned left, passed the town of Lian and then its Calatagan. Lago de Oro is on the right side. The ride is a pleasant one, especially if you don’t mind staring off early. The absence of traffic allows one to enjoy the Tagaytay breeze devoid of the usual pollution. Windows rolled down is indeed a better way to enjoy a road trip than to stay cooped in hours of artificial air-conditioning.

As we neared the resort, we could already see the outline of cable wires against the perfectly blue sky. Immediately upon entry, we immediately saw the man-made, oblong lake. We parked our car on the grassland several feet away from the edge of the lake. The cable park was welcoming and I couldn’t wait to get my feet strapped onto a board. But one needs to register, which meant a visit to the main lobby found in the main resort. There is a restaurant, a pool and a concrete pier that leads of into the sea. The rooms are basic and housed in a two-story building found across the cobbled driveway from the reception area.

The resort has a pool and a beach. But nobody bothers swimming. Because when you go to Lago, what you really want to do is wakeboard.

Usually, the rider is towed behind a speedboat. He or she navigates various obstacles in the water and executes different tricks while riding on the wake of the boat caused by the boat’s movement through the water. At cable wakeboard resorts such as the one in Lago, the sport becomes more easily accessible as it eliminates the need for a boat by towing the rider with an overhead cable that is constantly on the move. This in itself makes the cable area more interesting. There is a shop, a shed for skis, wake boards and skates, and the small dock or jump-off area. Much as I wanted to, I didn’t get to wakeboard on my first try. While I now get a thrill from actually having learned how to wakeboard, I started the way most beginners do --- with a kneeboard.

There are two sessions for wakeboarding. The morning session is from 9:30am to 12:30 noon, and the afternoon session is from 1: 30 pm to 4:30 pm. For those unsure of how they would feel after the first few tries, it is more practical to get a half-day ticket, which costs P990. I was content with half a day’s worth of falling into the water. But my friend bought a whole day ticket for P1,525. I got the half-day ticket. He wanted to make sure he could claim to be a wakeboarder by end of the day.

It pays to be early since the line of people waiting for their chance at the cables is predictably shorter earlier in the day. When my turn came, I knelt on the board then sat on my heels. I grasped the cable and waited for the suspended mechanism to make its turn and take me to the water. The instructor told me to hold on tight and start to raise myself from a sitting position to a kneeling position once I get my balance in the water. He told me to brace myself for the first turn.

When the cable pulled me to the water, I heard the wind swoosh in my ear. I held onto the cable handle tightly, trying to remember the instructions. Slowly I raised myself to a kneeling position, and I did get my balance. I could hear my heartbeat, and feel my heart thumping wildly. Then I saw the first turn. The guy in front of me just fell. Oh, that looked like it hurt a lot. I braced myself as the cable loosened then tightened for the turn.

As the pull slackened, the board slowed down. At the turn, the cable pulled unexpectedly and I was taken by surprise. Still holding onto the handle without the kneeboard, I bounced on the water surface twice before I realized that I fell on my first turn. When I did let got of the handle, water rushed inside my nose as I tumbled under the lake. It was a good thing we were all required to wear life vests or I wouldn’t have known where up or down was. I was dazed, and a little confused.

But hey, what a rush!

It’s a long walk back to the start off area from where I fell. I got out of the lake, a little bruised but giddy for my next ride as I waited for the little Choo-Choo train that ran on tracks around the lake picking up fallen wakeboarders. I quickly got back in line. This time I tried the water ski. Now in a standing position, pain seared through me as I crashed once again on the first turn. I learned later on that crashing on the water is called “face plant.” It did feel like I was planting my face on the water. But somehow, I just wanted to keep doing it over and over, always thinking that I would get it on the next try!

Then all too soon, the morning session was over and everyone stopped for lunch. In the following trips to Lago, we were able to discover a carinderia just a few blocks away from the resort. It served good Filipino food that can cost less than P100 --- a great idea, if you are on a budget and can be bothered to drive out of the complex. You also have the option to bring your own food, blankets and chairs. Our next daytrips were bonding moments created over packed lunches in picnic baskets as we lounged on blankets spread over the wet grass. It’s a great way to watch other wakeboarders and pick up a few tips!

When the afternoon session ended, wakeboarders and water skiers went to take shower in the stalls near the lake. But for the picky, here’s a tip. There are two cleaner shower rooms located in the restaurant’s restrooms. That’s where I go. By time everyone’s cleaned up, sunset paints the sky. The silver lake is still. It’s time to go home. But even on the trip back, there’s always something to look forward to. It’s always good to stop by a café or a diner in Tagaytay to eat a hearty meal after all that jumping and falling on the water.

The day after, my body was stiff and sore. But my spirit wasn’t. And as soon as my mind could order my muscles to move, I was ready for another field trip to Calatagan.
It took me a few more trips to Lago before I was able to ride the wakeboard but eventually, I even learned some simple tricks! Everyone should wake up to each day with a passion to try something new. Wakeboarding is my personal recommendation. Besides, it’s only a few hours drive away. A great thing if you end up dreaming of more--- just like I did.

Travel Notes

Lago de Oro
Balibago, Calatagan
(63 43) 213 2006
www.lago-de-oro.com

Wakeboarding
Wakeboarding is relatively new in the Philippines. Wakeboarding was created from a combination of water skiing, snow boarding and surfing techniques. Instead of using skis, the rider rides a single board with stationary non-release bindings for each foot, standing sideways. There are only 2 cable parks in the Philippines as of this writing. The nearest one is Lago de Oro but the bigger Camsur Watersports Complex located in Camarines Sur is 6-hectares big and has already hosted the World Championships, the biggest international event in the sport of Wakeboarding. Already, the CWC is being touted to be the best cable wakeboarding facility in the world.

Where Art is a Way of Life

Anyone with an appreciation for the arts will no doubt find a trip to Angono, Rizal worth his or her paintbrush and easel. The municipality, which lies just 30 kilometers east of the bustling metropolis, is famous for bearing the moniker “Art Capital of the Philippines,” and for good reason. At least two acclaimed National Artists called this place home: painter and muralist Carlos “Botong” Francisco and composer Lucio San Pedro. Numerous art galleries, breathtaking natural wonders and eating places that serve exotic and exquisite cuisine all make Angono an ideal destination for a relatively quick daytime excursion.

November is the best month to visit Angono; the 23rd to be precise. This is when the entire town comes alive with the annual Higantes Festival, the world-renowned fiesta held in honor of their patron saint San Clemente. But if you can’t make the trip on that exact date, don’t fret. Any day is a good day to visit Angono (especially since it’s so near Metro Manila).

Because it is a flourishing art town, no visit would be complete without checking out the numerous galleries and museums that feature works of contemporary local artists. Start your tour with the Nemiranda Arthouse and Museum (located at Doña Justa Subdivision), owned by painter and champion of the Angono arts scene, Nemi Miranda. The Museum houses his own private collection of paintings and artworks, as well as serving as a venue for exhibits and other art-related activities. Sip a cup of coffee at the coffee shop and, if you’re lucky, you just might bump into Nemiranda himself and get to chat with him about local art history, his affinity with the town and hear his stories about the great Botong Francisco.

Your next stop is the Blanco Family Museum (312 Ibañez St., Brgy. Sto. Niño). If there is any place in the entire town where you could witness firsthand the vibrant artistry and sheer creativity of its people, it is this place, which houses the artworks of the celebrated Blanco family of painters. Even if you’re only a casual admirer of paintings, the sight of those splendid images, lifelike and almost all depicted in the school of Realism, will make you catch your breath and appreciate the sheer genius that runs in this family of artists, and by extension, the people of Angono. One cannot help but wonder what it is in the air of this Rizal town that breeds an artistic eye. At least in Angono, the artist gene seems to be as hereditary as the color of one’s hair and skin.

For lunch, one cannot afford to miss the dining experience offered by the Balaw-Balaw Restaurant. Named after a local sauce made out of fermented shrimp, gruel and red rice, the restaurant has been featured in countless magazines, newspapers and TV programs, so much so that it is practically an institution in the Angono cultural scene. For the foodie with an iron stomach, a serving of snake, bayawak, frogs’ legs and deer meat shouldn’t be a problem. Of course, for those with more modest fancies, Balaw-Balaw also serves your regular Pinoy food fare, like kare-kare, sinigang and fried tilapia. Enjoy the food, the atmosphere and the relaxing strains of a guitar trio as they serenade you with contemporary love songs.

After all that chow, try to work off the excess calories by walking to the adjacent Ang Nuno museum. Marvel at the Higantes staring at you from their home the rest of the 364 days of the year, waiting for that one day when they would be let out once again to become the stars of the annual fiesta. If you’re not suffering from art exhaustion yet, check out the works of the artist and founder of the restaurant, Perdigon Vocalan, who, needless to say, was heavily influenced by Botong Francisco. Besides his paintings, many of which depict women in all their glory and beauty, Vocalan was also an accomplished sculptor, and many of his works are also displayed in a hall of the museum.

You’re gonna need all that extra fuel for a short hike inside the Eastridge Golf Club for a look-see of the ancient Angono Petroglyphs. Discovered by – yet again – Botong Francisco, these amazing human and animal figures are said to date as far back as 3000 BC, which would make them the oldest works of art in the Philippines. (No surprise then that they’re found in the art capital of the country). Although not currently recognized by the National Historical Institute, these inscriptions have been declared a national cultural treasure by the government, and its preservation and development are overseen by the National Museum of the Philippines, The Department of Tourism, World Monuments Fund and various other civic and community organizations.

After the requisite picture-taking to post on your social networking site and show-off to your friends, you can motor off to one more artists’ space before calling it a day. The Tiamson Art Gallery is owned by Orville DR Tiamson, a respected painter, musician and multimedia artist. As a painter, he is a student of the cubist’s style popularized by Vicente Manansala. He has also experimented on various other styles and media, including drawings on paper, installations and performances.

On your way back home, try to pass by the cemetery to pay tribute to the town’s two National Artists. It won’t take you very long because the tombs of Francisco and San Pedro lie next to each other. Try to walk down the length of Doña Aurora Street going to San Clemente church, where you can appreciate the murals that line the street, the final, most striking testament to the town’s rich artistic heritage. And if you’re in the mood for pasalubong, pass by the munisipyo and buy fried itik (but be sure to reheat it in oil when you get home; it’s just not that good when it’s not hot and steaming).

Travel Notes
How to Get There:
The municipality of Angono is located at the northeast tip of Laguna de Bay. Just ask the taxi to take you there. FX services and jeepneys also have regular routes to Angono.

Balaw-Balaw Restaurant
16 Dona Justa St.,
Dona Justa Subdivision, Angono, Rizal
(63 2) 651 0110

Quiapo and Binondo: A Cacophony of Philippine History and Culture