Unveiling Sagada
But this is just the first face of Sagada. The one that you will always remember is its second and more daring side. People have to learn that Sagada is not only about natural and rural charm. Its appeal is deeper and, in a way, more exploratory. I got to learn this lesson by doing it the adventurous way because beneath this mountain hamlet’s green and dewy image is an explorer’s playground.
I have heard lots of stories from friends who have already gone here before me. I recall one story about my brother’s experience when he and some of our older relatives went there for a holiday getaway. When he got back he kept telling us how awesome Sagada was and boasted of the cave explorations they did there. As a kid with a very vivid imagination, I thought to myself how much fun and exciting it would be if I can also experience what they have gone through. I didn’t realize then how much work, persistence and courage one has to have while exploring the caves.
My exploration started early in the morning with the pine trees already dividing the sun’s rays on the forest grounds and the cold mountain air waking me up from my morning stupor. The townspeople were already up and alive with their daily morning routine; a turnabout from the night’s curfew when the village lay silent in the darkness. My companions and I headed south of town where the caves where located. Our party of four was led by a resident tour guide whom I fondly called ‘Manong‘ all throughout the trip. All cave explorations and spelunking activities in Sagada are strictly to be accompanied by an experienced tour guide to avoid accidents or any other mishaps while inside the caves.
As we trekked along the road, my friends and I can’t help but be mesmerized by the grandeur of our surroundings. Tall pines guarded the lands while wild flowers were beautifully scattered all over the small pastures. The atmosphere was enveloped by fresh mountain air that makes you want to suck all the goodness in. While we were basking at the splendid surroundings of Sagada, Manong pointed towards towering limestones beside the town. There, from a distance, we saw the famous hanging coffins of Sagada. The coffins were high above the ground, planted and stacked on the numerous limestone towers. It was an extraordinary site. To see some of the culture of the Sagada people and to experience it firsthand was awe-inspiring.
Our first stop was Lumiang Cave. Manong entered a small concrete gateway which could be easily missed if you are not familiar with the area. Flat narrow ground paths paved the way while sharp stones steps led us lower and lower toward the cave. The right side of the cave site was a wall of the mountain but the left gave a scenic view of the immaculate pine forest. Before long, we saw the large mouth of Lumiang Cave with hundreds and hundreds of coffins piled to as high as the ceiling. It was unbelievable. Some were estimated to be more than a 1,000 years old while the latest coffins where buried during the 70’s. Some coffins were already aging and worn out but the craftsmanship was still evident. Manong stood near one with an engraved shape of a lizard on its covering. He explained to us that the lizard was a symbol of long life and that the animal would guide the spirit of the dead in the afterlife. I noticed the deep burrow going farther down the cave and asked Manong where it leads to. He said it was connected to the other bigger cave and if we wanted a true adventure, we could go down there. To be honest, I was really, really out of breath and out of exercise; going inside that deep hole was an unlikely suggestion. By the time we walked back to the main road, I was really tired and sweaty. However, Manong amusingly informed me that this was a warm up compared to the other cave.
Although we didn’t get to experience the cave connection route, we still got to enjoy the continued leisure trek we had outdoors. From the road, you can see the neighboring rice terraces rolling on the mountain terrain. The clear blue sky made the trek more refreshing. A tired soul will easily be reenergized while walking through Sagada. Another 20 minutes passed before we reached the second destination, Sumaguing Cave. We stopped by a convenience store in front of the entrance to leave our heavy belongings and prepare ourselves for the cave. For those who are not adventure seekers, I suggest you put all your negative thoughts and feelings away because you might not enjoy the unique experience while exploring these caves.
Before continuing down, Manong pulled out an oil lamp from his back pack. “From here on, it will all be darkness,” he explained. With a crinkled nose to take out my anxiety, a last heavy sigh and an open mind for adventure, I joined the group and ventured down towards the growing abyss.
Sumaguing literally means ‘big,’ and within its cavernous halls live thousands of nocturnal bats squeaking and flapping above us. One might get queasy thinking of bat guano covering the ground but the feeling of adventure overwhelmed us as we went further and further inside the cave. First time spelunkers like me have to be really careful inside the cave. Aside from the darkness, sharp and slippery stones made the trek a little difficult and every move critical. I even had an accidental slip while climbing down the 50-foot stone wall. Manong advised us to make our every step slow, stern and sure.
As we approached the limestone rocks, our tour guide instructed us to remove our shoes and we went barefoot for the rest of the trip. The limestone boulders felt coarse and rough under our feet; quite a contradicting element when you look at them from afar. Apparently, being barefoot is much better because we could have better footing this way.
The following segment of our exploration was the most awaited. From the darkness, the light from the oil lamp bounced of the cream colored walls of the limestone. It was a world far different from the one we just passed. Millions of years formed these maginificently-shaped rock formations and for a very brief period of time, we had the opportunity to see it. The locals have already named some formations according to their appearance: ‘big mama’, ‘chocolate cake’, and ‘teddy bear.’ One of the most unique and splendid of them all was the ‘king’s curtain’ which looks like an impregnable wall of billowing curtains. Spelunkers can also have the option to swim around the crystal clear waters of the pools.
Visitors are then led into a labyrinth-like exploration of the cave’s inner chambers. Try twisting and hanging on to dear life while shooting down tiny holes and caverns, some of which have deep gaps in between. Incredibly, Manong swept gracefully among us, stepping nonchalantly over the rocky steps and spires. All throughout the trip, he would willingly assist, telling us where to step and where we can hold on for support. He took everything in stride and patiently encouraged us to trust his calls. The whole thing was challenging, yet well worth the labor. In the end, we were rewarded by reaching the amazing rock formation called “the rice terraces’” which was really an amazing sight to behold. The rock formation is located on a very large cavern with layers upon layers of limestone terraces creating sections of shallow wading pools from the flowing cold mountain water.
We went out of the cave the same way we came in. We had to trudge up the rock wall again the same way we went down. Again, first timers have to remember that the rocks here are slippery. By the time we reached the mouth of the cave, the sun was shining brightly down on us as if welcoming us back to the Sagada we first experienced. After almost a three-hour journey underneath the earth, it was nice to fill my lungs with fresh cold mountain air.
Visitors will greatly appreciate the scenic surroundings of the place abounding with tall pine trees and serene country atmosphere. After surviving the adventure of the deep caves, you’ll never ever forget this unbelievable adventurer’s haven in the mountains. It is really hard not to be enchanted by the beauty of Sagada especially when you’ve seen both of its faces.
Travel Notes
Aside from the spelunking activities, tourists can also go to the other interest spots in Sagada. Just a short distance away from town is Lake Danum. Visitors can take long picnics here and enjoy the beauty of the surroundings . For a real treat, hike up to Mt. Ampacao and get the chance to have a great breathtaking view of the Sagada Sunset.
Try not to bring too much load when going on a Sagada adventure. It is also advisable not to put electronic devices on your pockets to avoid them from falling out when spelunking.
Where to Stay:
The Residential Lodge is a 3-storey apartment converted into an inn. It offers dorm-style accommodations at Php 200.00 per head. There are communal bathrooms, a living room in every floor and a dining area and kitchen at the ground floor.
The Residential Lodge
Daoangan, Sagada, Mountain Province
(63 929) 625 7419
The Residential Lodge is just one of the numerous inns, guest houses and lodges in Sagada. Some lodgings have restaurants while others serve home-cooked meals. During peak season, the town hospital sometimes opens their rooms to incoming visitors.
How to Get There:
It takes 6 hours to travel by land to Manila from Baguio. From there, it takes another 6 hours to travel to Sagada through the Halsema Highway, the highest highway system in the country. One can use a car or board a bus from Baguio to take trip to Sagada and the other municipalities in the Mt. Province.
An alternate route is from Banaue, Ifugao. Tourists can take a jeep ride or an open air bus from Banaue which is about 3-4 hours from Sagada.
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