Megafauna of Donsol: Seeking the Company of Sharks
This is how most tourists experience whale sharks for the first time in Donsol, Sorsogon. What is even more amazing is that this experience can be repeated over in a single day. Though Donsol is not the easiest place to get to, approximately 400 km. southeast of Manila, the breathtaking experience of whale shark interaction is worth it.
Annual pilgrimage
The whale shark is often mistaken for a whale due to its incredible size and misleading name. Growing up to 20 meters long and weighing as much as 34 tons, this huge animal is the biggest fish and living shark in the world. Despite its size, the whale shark feeds on plankton, free-floating animals and plants that are almost invisible to the naked eye. It swims constantly to survive, following currents that lead them to plankton-rich feeding grounds. After the feeding frenzy that last for a few months, the giants head to another destination.
Encapsulated by Ticao Pass, the coastal waters of Donsol is an important feeding ground of whale sharks. They gather between the months of November and June to feast. There is no exact number yet on how many whale sharks visit Donsol annually though experts believe that Donsol hosts probably the highest density of the species in the world. WWF-Philippines, the conservation organization, has already photo-identified more than 100 unique individuals, and the number continues to grow.
Donsol gave birth to whale shark tourism in 1998 in the face of daunting challenges. Shark hunters, ready for the kill, move in to Donsol when the big aggregation of these huge animals was made known to the outside world. The butchery of at least six whale sharks made it to the headlines of major dailies, propelling cries for the protection of the animal. In the events that followed, the Philippine government made a nationwide ban of whale shark fishery.
Several years later, this coastal town made a mark as an important tourism destination for both the local and international market. In its “Best of Asia” special report in 2004, Time Magazine named the whale shark interaction in Donsol as the Best Animal Encounter. One hundred percent whale shark sighting in a given day is not guaranteed, but 15 swimming encounters with these gentle giants in less than 3 hours is not unusual in Donsol.
Close encounter
Shark watchers have to register at the Donsol Municipal Tourism Office at the Butanding Interaction Center. Upon payment of dues, the attending staff will issue a boarding pass, which indicates boat and BIO assignment, and will lead the tourists to a video briefing. The BIO is the local guide for whale shark interaction and is responsible for the safety of the tourists at all times during a boat trip. Traditional sea vessels – motorized outrigger canoes typically about 6 meters or 20 feet in length – are used with a maximum of seven guest passengers onboard. In addition to BIO, each boat has a boat captain, a spotter and a skipper.
Once a whale shark is spotted, the boat positions itself a few meters ahead of the shark in preparation for all the snorkelers to ease themselves quietly into the water. Everyone has to be ready and anticipating because it rarely takes more than 30-60 seconds between spotting a shark and getting in the water. If one takes any longer, the tourist is likely to miss the opportunity for a close encounter. Getting ready means putting on your life vest, fins, mask and snorkel, and paying attention to the instructions of BIO.
Keep in mind the code of conduct for whale shark interaction for the ultimate goal of this highly specialized tourism is conservation.
Code of Conduct:
1. Do not touch or ride the whale shark.
2. Do not restrict the movement of the shark or impede its natural path.
3. The recommended distance from the whale shark is 3 meters from the head or body and 4 meters from the tail.
4. Do not use flash photography.
5. Do not use scuba, scooters, jet-skis or any other motorized underwater propulsion.
6. A maximum of 6 swimmers per shark is allowed
7. There must only be one boat per whale shark
Transforming economic landscape
Donsol took a big leap forward when whale shark tourism started more than ten years ago. From its humble beginning, the whale shark tourism now brings in revenue to the local government and the community. Based on tourist arrivals and expenditures, Donsol contributed approximately 35 million pesos to the national economy in 2005, and its contribution remains unmatched in the whole of Bicol region.
The BIOs and boat operators, gaining additional income from visitor spending for tourism and related services, are the most obvious beneficiaries of the industry. Every arriving tourist means a demand for transport and guiding services. Over a four-year period, demands for boat trips posted an annual increase of 76%, rising from 340 in 2002 to 1,845 in 2005. Beach resorts, home-stays and food services also sprung, getting more tourists to stay longer and spend more.
The phenomenal increase in tourist arrivals, 110% annually from 2002 to 2005, effectively attracted business investments in Donsol. Years ago, operator-assisted telephone communication was the fastest way to get through the outside world. Today, thanks to the major telecommunications companies operating in this town, bookings and even inquiries on whale shark sightings can be done through SMS.
Making a difference
Donsol changed the direction of whale shark conservation in the country. Tourism is flourishing and its contribution to the growth of local economy manifests that the gentle giants are more valuable alive than dead. And now, more than ever, the people of Donsol learned that the sea is truly their life.
Travel Notes
Best time of the year to visit Donsol. Whale sharks are present between the months of November and June. March and April offer greater chances of sightings.
Getting to Donsol. Philippine Airlines and Cebu Pacific carry passengers to Bicol via their daily Manila-Legazpi City flights. Donsol is also accessible by a 12-hour bus ride from Manila to Legazpi City. It takes another one hour to reach Donsol from Legazpi City. Vans going to Donsol can be boarded at the Satellite Market.
Accommodation. Donsol offers Department of Tourism-accredited home-stays with rates ranging from PHP 400-800 per room/day. There are also beach resorts that provide air-conditioned rooms.
Caveats. Tourist influx in the long weekends of Holy Week and Labor Day is massive.
Contact information. For more details on whale shark interaction package, food and accommodation, contact the following:
Nenita Pedragoza, Municipal Tourism Officer
Mobile number: 0919 7070394/09178681626
Amy Detera, Department of Tourism Region 5
Number: (63 52) 482 0712
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