Discovering a Surfing Paradise: Siargao
What led American adventurer Mike Boyam to the shores of Siargao more than two decades ago? Was it destiny, his stumbling upon the surfing paradise while on a 40-day fast? Sadly, exceeding the days of bearable hunger, he died here. If only he had discovered the Cloud 9 chocolate bar in the local sari-sari store like American photographer John S. Callahan and fellow surfers Evan Slater and Taylor Knox had, in 1992… sustaining them while they surfed the great waves in Catangnan…maybe then, he would have survived.
There is one thing I am certain of though: Callahan did a great job naming the now famous surfing haven. Cloud Nine, named after the chewy Filipino chocolate bar to which he credits his survival in Siargao Island – a jungle then, with some of the most awesome waves the world has ever known.
The photos and article Callahan published in the US Surfer's Magazine in 1994 did much to spread the word about their great "discovery" – and perhaps to the dismay of other explorers who had discovered it too but had decided to keep the island for themselves by not saying a word. But really, beautiful moments are meant to be shared (and who can keep a secret for too long?) Since then, professional surfers have come from all over the world with photographers in tow, making Cloud Nine more famous abroad than any other place in the Philippines.
I took the same spirit of adventure evident in Callahan and his companions, when I decided to check out the island of Siargao for myself. I packed the same spirit of discovery and adventure into my backpack as we began our journey to Siargao.
It was one great adventure. And the best travel advice I can give you for your trip to Siargao is this: Keep an open mind.
The Journey
From out the window of the plane, I was blessed with a bird's eye view of the greenest mountains and the bluest ocean surrounding Mindanao. Siargao is a small island off Mindanao’s north-eastern tip, a tropical hideaway peppered with coconut trees. Getting there entails a 4-hour boat ride which leaves just before noon from Surigao province (yes, these are similar names! It’s SURIGAO province and SIARGAO Island). The water journey to Siargao Island and back is scenic; from the ferry, I relaxed and took in the vista, littered with little islands and lush mangroves. I was quite amused to watch waves swirling about like a whirlpool… until I found out that island's Pacific Ocean-facing reefs are situated on the edge of the Philippine Trench, where the water is deep -- around 10,000 meters deep! That’s Mt. Everest turned upside down, plus another 3,000 feet!
We arrived at the Port of Dapa in the island of Siargao. We came in the late afternoon and took a 20-minute tricycle ride into the municipality of General Luna which culminated into a whole day excursion to see the famous “Cloud Nine”. As the travel had taken its toll on us, my companions and I called it a day upon arrival. We took our rest at Patrick's on the Beach, a resort three kilometers away from the surfing area (Cloud Nine), in the small town of Catangnan.
The Discovery
Nature is wondrous… and when it comes to weather, you’ve got to love her moods! Early morning found us at the wooden jetty at Cloud Nine to look for the waves and the surfers -- but we found none. Waves are dependent upon the weather and the tides. How we wished we had done a simple search on the internet to see when the waves would be rolling in (visit www.patrickonthebeach.com for a surfing forecast on Cloud 9). Luckily we bumped into Gerry Degan, the friendly Australian who owns Sagana Resort, one of the better known resorts in the Cloud Nine area. Gerry is also the event coordinator for the International Surfing Competition held every September and now in its 14th year. Like many others, having discovered the island and fallen in love with the place, he and his wife Susan and baby Lily stay in Siargao for most of the year, returning to Sydney during Australian summer.
Gerry talked excitedly about the surfing competition despite a hang-over from all the merriment the night before. He advised us to come back in the afternoon, when all the surfers would be back for high tide. He talked about ‘the perfect barrel’ which Siargao is famous for. I had to find out what that meant.
"When the wave tubes are over you, you have to get inside the curl of the wave and ride through it," Gerry explained. Just like what you see in the movies, we thought. This is what brings international surfers from Australia, Hawaii, the United States, Japan and Europe to what is now known as the surfing capital of the Philippines.
A beautiful surfing day would have you catching world-class waves aptly described by the locals as seawater curling into the outline of a ‘9’, and its tip turning to froth-like clouds… Ahh yes, true to its name! But the famous Cloud Nine turns to "Crowd Nine" in the peak months from August till end of November, and again during the Easter Season from April to May, which is a great time for surfers to explore the rest of the island and find other waves to ride. A short boat ride from Cloud 9 to nearby Rock Island, Stimpy's and you can find other breaks stretching right up to the east coast, to Pilar, Pacifico and Burgos. So there are many options to ensure you catch a good view of the surf while you’re here.
What a Non-Surfer’s Got to Do
Watching surfers from around the world embracing the waves of Siargao is simply a delight to watch. But what's one got to do when the surf’s down?
"You can stay here for a month and we can take you on different tours everyday," says Andreas Mikoleiczik, German owner of Patrick's on the Beach resort along with his Filipina wife, Elizabeth. I learned that the charming and rustic island has a lot of gifts to offer the traveler willing to spend quality time. Patrick's, for instance, has recently discovered Yohoho! Islands and Lagoon where couples and friends can enjoy a picnic or have a “pirate's feast” prepared by the resort.
One can also take a refreshing three island tour to Guyam, Dako and Naked islands for swimming, snorkeling, diving and deep-sea fishing.
Guyam is a tiny white island with no inhabitants (a great venue for the cast of the Pirates of the Caribbean). Dako, on the other hand, is an island with about 300 fishing families. It is recommended for snorkeling and beginner surfers. Local surfers act as tour guides and they also give surfing lessons at P500 an hour. This price comes with a guarantee – You’re sure to be able to stand on your surf board after the session or your money back. Wow!
Naked Island, also called Pansukian Island, has a pristine white sandbar that is some 200 meters long and hugged by turquoise clear waters with massive coral reefs. Sohoton Cave, located in Bucas Grande (about 90 minutes from Cloud Nine and in the northern part of Siargao Island), is also a beautiful place to explore, with its hidden treasures, tunnels and lagoons, a jellyfish lake, a rainforest canopy, and probably much more. And in the town of Del Carmen, you can say that you kayaked along the largest mangrove forest reserve in Mindanao.
Because of its deep waters, Siargao Island is also great for deep sea fishing expeditions. The island has an abundance of marine life such as the yellow fin tuna, mahi-mahi, and tanigue.
Surfing the Palate
It's good to know that starving in Siargao is a thing of the past, as the food choices have greatly expanded -- from those memorable chocolate bars, to a variety of international cuisines offered by all the resorts.
"The quality of the food on this island is better than anywhere else in the Philippines," says David Motbey, one of the pioneers in the area and owner of the premier spot, Cloud Nine Resort (Motbey also happened to be surfing with John Callahan and Co when they first discovered the island and christened it Cloud Nine). He has been to other places in the Philippines, and says that nothing compares to the depth of cuisine found here. Biased? Perhaps. But I met the many foreigners who have come to build their homes and resorts in Siargao, and they have inevitably brought their native tastes along.
Frenchman Nicolas Rambeau who built Pansukian Tropical Resort serves French cuisine while the Australians in the island bring their own recipes to the menu. Aussie David swears by his restaurant's Thai-inspired mango curry chicken, chicken and pork schnitzels, and the local kinilaw which is fresh fish smothered in vinegar.
At Patrick's on the Beach, everything is also served fresh. A coconut is picked from its tree upon order of a buko juice. Since the food is prepared only upon ordering, expect 30 to 45 minutes of ‘anticipation time’. Their five-finger shell fish adobo rice, homemade yoghurt and Yohoho! mango rum (with real mango bits!) is a refreshing welcome. Interestingly, some of the proceeds from the Yohoho! rum, P325 per bottle, go to providing five nutritious meals to poor families, and P50 of each bottle goes to the care of the environment. I went home with a bottle!
Fill your craving and find freshly caught fish at the wet market, especially tuna. Buy fresh seafood and have them cooked in the small eateries near the wet market. You may also ask your resort to steam the fish wrapped in banana leaves or to cook them with dill herb, which grows like grass in town. "Pasayan," a local term for shrimp, is also abundant in Siargao and so good when freshly cooked.
Leaving Siargao Island without having some "Surfer's Bread" would be a disappointment. Try getting some at the local bakery, or visit Shat's Guest House along General Luna where it’s served.
So now, having experienced this surfing paradise for myself, albeit via a bumpy ride on the habal-habal (motorbike), I have one thing to say: wear a bum-pillow! Seriously though, I am all the richer for it. How can we call it a great adventure if we do not make serendipitous discoveries along the way? Like the early surfers who ventured into the unknown, I learned that it only takes a leap, or in this case, a surf of faith, to feel the thrill of being there!
Travel Notes
Island tours can be arranged through individual resorts, or call Jing Gurrobat (0910-2596493) for a half-day tour of Guyam, Dako, and Pansukian. Dodong Digman (0921-3246415) can also take you on an adventure to Sohoton Cave.
Where to Stay
General Luna, the small town that houses Cloud Nine, is a rural countryside where friendly locals reside. Most resorts are found along the surfing area while some are located some 3 kilometers away. Most give a 10% discount off their regular rates in the lean months and up to 15% if you stay for a week or more.
Budget travelers can opt for middle-priced accommodations ranging from PhP500 per night (budget rooms), to P3,500 per night (superior rooms). Most resorts offer rustic, basic beach houses. Some cottages are made of bamboo and nipa. Some rooms are concrete with basic bed and ceiling fan. Superior rooms have air conditioning but can be unnecessary when people are out catching the waves or exploring the island most of the time. The resorts have good bathrooms with running water, a big improvement from the early days when the island had no potable water and electricity. Now, some resorts have internet connection, either provided for free to guests, or for a fee.
Cherrie Nicole Resort in General Luna has an indoor swimming pool for those who prefer this to swimming along the rocky shores of Cloud Nine.
For those who want luxury accommodation, Pansukian Tropical Resort is an option. This resort has 5 villas and 3 garden cottages overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
How to get there
Some domestic airlines have flights to Surigao Del Norte from Manila. It takes 20 minutes to get to the Eva Macapagal Passenger Terminal from the Surigao airport. There are only two boats, Montenegro Lines and Angel, both of which travel daily to Siargao Island. The ride costs P200 and lasts 3 to 4 hours. Upon arrival in Siargao Island at the port of Dapa, one can take the tricycle that will seat 7 people max for a 20-minute journey. The road is well-paved and will take you to the municipality of General Luna – this is where the Cloud Nine resorts are located.
To get around General Luna, hitch a habal-habal (motor bike) for P10 per person and P20 if you’re headed to as far as Pansukian (roughly 7 kms away from Cloud Nine). A hired van will cost P3,500 per day. You can also rent a tricycle for P250 for half a day and P500 for the whole day. Tricycles are not readily available outside the resorts except those located in the Cloud Nine surfing area. It will be best to contract a tricycle or habal-habal upon arrival for a bigger group.
Getting back to Surigao City from Siargao is no mean feat especially when you've grown accustomed to the relaxing ‘island time’ . Please note that the boat to Surigao leaves early at 5:45 am and another one at 6:30 am. Don’t be late or you’ll have to wait another day.
Travel Tips:
1. Bring extra cash. As of writing, there are no automated teller machines (ATM) in Siargao. This also means you must consider changing your currency to Philippine Pesos before you get to the island. There is a Western Union in the town of Dapa in Siargao where you can send and receive wire money transfers. You will receive your money in Peso currency. Major banks and ATMs are found in Surigao City – but this is a 4-hour boat ride away. Some of the resorts accept credit cards but most prefer to be paid in cash. Patrick's on the Beach provides cash advances on all major credit cards and can change most currencies including US Traveler checks.
2. Buy your boat ticket in advance. The boat going back to Surigao from Siargao Island leaves very early at 5:45 and 6:30 in the morning. It would be best to buy your ticket at the Dapa port the day before you leave so as to avoid the inconvenience of having no seats and standing up throughout the 4-hour journey. This is inevitable during the peak season when there are plenty of travelers coming and going. You can buy your ferry ticket for the next day's trip (P200 one-way) after the current boat leaves. Allow ample time to get to the port area; leave your resort 30 minutes in advance so you can make it there in time – more if you have not got a ticket in hand or if it’s peak season when there will be many more queuing up for ferry tickets.
3. Bring a First Aid Kit. Since it is a tropical hideaway and the nearest hospital is in Surigao city, do take with you a first aid kit to address possible scrapes and injuries while surfing or island hopping. Also bring anti-nausea medicines to help you during the boat ride going to the island. It would also be advisable to bring and apply a mosquito repellant to protect you from the itchy bite and for a relaxing sleep through the night. Include sunblock and moisturising lotion (staples for visiting any tropical hideaway). For emergencies, there is a health care center that offers first aid at the Boulevard in General Luna.
4. Bring a Flashlight. A flashlight and alkaline batteries will come in handy as the island experiences occasional power failures.
5. Stock up on Load. Pre-paid mobile subscribers are advised to bring enough cell phone credit to the island as it can get difficult to get load around -- especially during peak months when many people have the same need.
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